Y'all should also do a water test and see which one is more durable to water and I bet you will have a different outcome. I totally agree with you on LP being lighter as well as much easier and safer to cut without a doubt. As for the strength durability, I don't ever plan on having a board up with nothing behind it so I'm not so worried about it breaking like that and don't plan on anything hitting it like that once it's up either so that test doesn't do anything for me. However, if I'm putting exterior siding up on a house where it will always see rain and have chances of moisture I'd rather just wear a respirator and change my blade or tool to cut something like Hardie Board that I know won't rot or get damaged from it getting wet like LP Smartside basically even tells you it will themselves in their warranty. Then you also have to worry about termites with LP and you don't with fiber cement. Seems kinda sketchy to me is all I'm saying so I rather not even risk it.
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I have Hardi on my house. LP on my shed. You can throw baseballs at the LP and it doesn’t dent. However, I put the the Same Sherwin Williams Emerald paint on them on the same day. 8 years later the paint looked much better on the Hardi. And there was some slight water damage on the LP. Both good products. If you have kids playing ball around ur house... LP. Otherwise get Hardi.Mine is 18 years old and I don’t regret it.
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I am a Remodeling contractor in Washington state, yes cedar and OSB board siding is way easier to work with then fibre cement type products, though, the majority of repairs and replacements that I have completed are L.P products , or weather worn natural wood products . Fibre cement products hold up to wind driven rain far longer then the other products in general use , given proper installation and final finish .
Well I had some hardi lying around for 15 years outside uncovered. I washed it, installed it and threw 2 coats of latex paint on it and it's doing fine. I'm impressed. I'm reluctant to use any osb on exterior. I see you guys don't have your siding bottom edge end with tops of doors and top and bottom of window casing. Yes you have to vary the exposure to make it happen. That's never noticed when done right. I would say any house built before 1950 was done this way. New guys wouldn't know about it if they weren't told. You've been told now. Take a few minutes to look at old houses versus new in this regard. Old way was much classier. Once your eye is trained you'll get it. Thanks guys !
Hardie plank is fire rated. In Australia we need to use hardie plank for compliance with fire ratings. That osb board crap will rot out and catch fire but is great if it starts raining hammers..
the raining hammers comment is right on point! its laughable that people put products through unrealistic tests that have little to no bearing on real world outcomes.
Weirdly enough I used the Smart side (unpainted) as a fence material. It's been in the weather for over 2 years and it's holding together pretty decent. The glue has a couple extra additives to make it water resistant. So far so good.
It depends on where you live. In the humid Northwest, Hardie Board will excel because it doesn't dry out. Smart Side will tend to rot there. In Northern Wisconsin where I am, HB will crack horribly. LP Smart Side prefinished from the supplier will last and last. I think the finish has a 30 year warrantee.
Hardie isn't all that down here in Texas just like wood siding it will decay around the nail and goes quickly down hill if not kept caulked or painted regularly . I will give it is fire resistant but not to impressed with how brittle it is
I started as a painter. Took me 10 years to teach my carpenter buddy to PAINT ALL SIX SIDES BEFORE INSTALLING. Moisture can enter the product through the back side unless this product is sealed somehow, and that will significantly reduce the lifetime of the paint job, as well as subsequent paint jobs. I especially don't trust OSB, especially in my climate as we see the product rot out, especially under windows.
There are small gaps under my plank siding. I’m concerned about moisture getting through the gaps during strong wind and rain or during pressure washing. What’s your thought of caulking between the planks? Seems caulking would reduce wind and moisture penetration but would it hold moisture behind the siding thereby delaying drying and leading to mold and/or rot?
Craig Wheeless We used to caulk between the butt joints but now prefer to slip a piece of flashing behind there. The problem with caulk is that it tends to let go with the expansion and contraction of the siding, and this also allows the caulk to show after its been painted. The butt joints will not absorb much water if properly painted and sealed, and any water that is absorb now has a path to dry. Also, you always assume that any method will fail to stop water from getting in at some point, and therefore plan for a way to let the water/moisture back out.
I used the early version of this 20 years ago it failed bad . It had a gide groove and the edge wasn't preprimed then they removed the grove and it came wrapped with a factory finish much improved weaknesses is still cuts prime and high quality caulk a must, by the time you pre-paint not sure your savings anything
We removed and recycled a 12yr old full house of smart sheet board from a house to be demolished. It sat in our yard for 18 months. It showed zero signs of swelling on the cut edges snd there was absolutely no rot. We had to purchase some new sheets and they were slighly different thickness so we worked with that. We've now been in our house for 5 yrs, making the original sheets 17 yrs old, it still looks fabulous, ee have had mo problems with any of it. We priced out Hardy Board and it would have cost 4x more to complete our house. My husband built a green house and resided a garden shed with the scap left overs. We are extremely happy with this product.
2 1/2'' siding nails in between every stud...as a plumber i love this product, the amount of money ill make on back charges to fix pipes with nail holes will help me put my kids through college..lol
@@kilokslr no I think he's talking about the nails blowing through the Exterior wall in-between the 16" oc studs and hitting random pipes and wires!!!!! (Hence the $arca$m he u$ed)
I am not sold brother. I don’t give a damn what coating you put on OSB. It is still OSB. I agree Hardie is a pain to work with but it is a far superior product.
Your right those guys are full of it Hardy is a much better product and most high end homes around here will use it or something similar instead of smart siding or any wood.
@Mr Sunshines there is no argument. I am just relaying information. I was just agreeing with the original post. I used Hardy on my property and work with it everyday. It is not as difficult to put up as he makes it seem. It cuts fine with a Hardy blade and a circular saw. Everything he says goes against what I know from putting up Hardy plank. I am not saying anything about fragility of Hardy. It last longer and no need to prime or seal.
Contractors love it because it's a lot easier to work with, but homeowners will be cursing the contractor 15 - 20 down the road when their siding rots of the side of their house.
I definitely understand the dilemma about using LP vs. Hardie, but ultimately I would choose Hardie. Many people have commented the pros and cons and, like you said, it really comes down to the fact LP is sooo much easier to work with. You need specialized tools to cut and install Hardie which is why it isn't a diy kind of product. Thanks for showing the LP, and I hope you have good success with it.
Gecko gauges also work with smart siding. But it's an inferior product. LP siding has had tons of lawsuits against it in the past. This stuff is no better. Check out the manufacturer's install instructions.
@@christophermalloy2 Wrong Chris. The old Innerseal was the LP product that failed. LP settled that in a big way and took ownership. This stuff has been redesigned an out there over 20 years and blows FiberCement away.
I tested the Hardi Plank in my New Home Model for 3 1/2 years . I placed it in the back of the toilet tank and would take in and out several times a week to show future home buyers. It never rotted. But it for sure is tougher to install . And can , like it shows in the video break when hit hard. But if you hate rot . This holds up great and paint real last a long time on it .
@@teamplayer1218 I’ve never seen Hardie swell and delaminate from moisture, even the scrap piece he used in the video looks to have been sitting outside on the ground for a long long time.
You literally would take buyers into the bathroom and make them watch while you fished something out of the toilet ... to demonstrate Hardie board to them?
I have been using Hardie textured for the bottom 30"-36" and switching to LP textured from there up. My home buyers get the quality and protection of the Hardie in the "splash zone" but save the money the rest of the way up. The textures are so close that no one notices the difference unless it is pointed out to them.
This is not a recommendation but I built a pump house with Smart board siding and didn't paint it for ten years. It came primed and looks great. After ten years in the south Texas humidity there wasn't a single flaw and one coat of paint made it look like new. I've installed a lot of Hardie siding for others but wouldn't use it for any of my own buildings.
@@thecloneguyz I've seen brick houses burn to the ground. Fireproof is a weak selling point when the structure beneath it isn't. Smart Siding is also less brittle and holds up to hail better. I'm not a Smart Siding sponsor but it does have advantages however Hardy offers more design options.
@@BulletproofPastor Smart Siding has millions of dollars of class action lawsuits against it in the 70s all they did is changed the name you'd have to be stupid and cheap to put that stuff on your house t-111 is better than that crap
@@thecloneguyz I take the title "cheap" as a compliment but stupid I'm not. If Smart Siding was just a name change for the old LP siding (like my neighbor had fail on his house) Louisiana Pacific would be bankrupt by now. The new product is nothing like what they made in the 70's and I've seen both. Calling this product as just a name change is no different than thinking Zip Panels are just another OSB.
When you threw the smart side in the air for the "break" test, it pretty much fluttered to the ground like a feather.....of course it didn't break. Also, as it was turning it looked like particle board on the back. I'll stick to Hardie for my next house.
Additionally , my own house has brick veneer up to the window sills , along with a minimum 24" eave on house and 48 " on detached garage . On all the resides we did for LP failures, 80-90 residence s , no customer requested re reinstalling LP , OSB, lap siding / panels ! 90 % replacement was done with James Hardie , fibercement products ! Those jobs took place from 1996 - 2011 , with another wave of the second generation LP products now failing, we will be busy for some time replacing those installs . Cheers
I have no experience with siding but do know of people who used OSB for house construction and now 20 years later are getting soft panels. So to think that it would work as an outside weather barrier... ?!
Lots of mis-information here: (1) If your cutting Hardie using a grinder, your doing it wrong. When cutting Hardie you use a blade designed specifically for Fiber Cement. Check out Diablo Blades designed for fiber cement, will dramatically reduce dust. You can also get a saw with a vacuum connection if your doing enough siding work to justify it. (2) Your impact test is a “false” test, as siding is designed to be hung in the wall w/sheathing behind it. What you’ll then find is that Hardie is a more durable product that won’t dent/crater like a wood based product like LP will. I’ve seen golf balls go through LP, not so much with Hardie when on the wall. The old hammer test, has been used by LP for years, and is full of misconceptions. (3) LP being lighter is its core advantage w/ 16’ lengths when compare to Hardie. Here is the problem with the product, it’s still a wood based product. Wood based products will rot over time and be more subject to pests like Wood Peckers/Termites. In addition wood based products WILL expand at joints, so while there maybe LESS joints with an LP sided house vs Hardie, you will need to allow a 3/16” gap at those joints to allow for expansion, which will need to be flashed And caulked. The more caulking you do, the more Maintance there is for the homeowner down the road. Hardie is recommended to have moderate contact (touching) at butt joints w/ NO caulk and just 6” wide flashing behind it. It will look better and have less caulk to replace in the future. (4) Edge Checking: as water penetrates LP (and it will for any siding), the outside film and interior pressed board will separate at the edges this will cause cracking of LP near the exposed board edges. Hardie doesn’t have that issue. (5) Fire ratings: LP is a wood product, which will add fuel to a fire; Hardie will at most only scorch. (6) Look at Color Plus Hardie. Saves the customer money, and you time and money (cutting out a painter/labor). And gives you a superior paint as it’s painted in a factory controlled environment. It requires the crew to take their time, and be more diligent it’s handling (ie better). (7) stop hold the boards flat when moving them, they need to be held on the side. Of course if you hold any board flat it will cause to act like a wet noodle and create micro cracks in the board. LP angle to the market is to appeal to easier installation for the tradesmen. Hardies (and fiber cement board in general), is to appeal to the homeowner with a longer lasting product with low maintenance. Whom do you ultimately serve? If it’s the homeowner, Hardie and fiber cement siding is the clear winner.
Ben: You comment on LP's product being wood based and will rot is so wrong and misleading and just inaccurate Do you even know how the stuff is made? Answer: You don't. Stop posting mis-information. As for termites? They test this stuff in termite mounds and the Zinc Borate in the product turns them away. I could go on.
Recently built a house, after pricing hardy board and smart board, we bricked the whole thing. We used smart for the eves and such. 30 year warranty, mostly boils down to keeping a good paint on it
Great video.... We just finished our home in northern Michigan with Smart Board. Love it! Two other contractors also warned about Hardie Board for our project.
Thanks a lot Eric. Hell of a way to end a vid. I just about fell out of my chair when it ended and no one, I mean NO ONE, said “bye!”. 😓 Now I feel violated. 🤭
Impact resistance isn't what matters at all in an exterior product it comes down to how long it lasts in the elements. I'd take a more effective product over an easier to use product any day of the week.
Smart siding is not easier to use. This guy is full of $@#&. I do a lot of Hardy and it goes on fast and simple. Coil gun, gekkos, Hardy blade, eight foot or six foot level and a good cut man. Butt factory to factory no gaps. No need for nippers or grinder. No priming, painting or sealing. Just paint after it is up.
@@speedgonzalez489 I think he's just talking about the dust from cutting hardie which is pretty annoying it gets inside tools, and forces you to wear a mask when cutting it or risk your health.
I still go with the hardie, that smooth board you like will weather and waterlogged in a short time, they had problems with this similar looking board years ago , I see its back again
That was a Masonite product, tiny fibers, which soaked up water much more than osb. And epoxies have come a long way, and Cement board has the same issues if not properly sealed..it will absorb moisture.
@@colinglidden5702 You are totally correct on this. Also LP siding has different chemicals in it than the LP OSB. People need to read up on their web site and also call LP and ask questions because that's what i did and Hardie is just as good or better.
I have replaced many houses sided with LP siding manufactured in a similar way as smart side. Like OSB, it easily absorbs moisture and water and swells and then you spend twice as much to replace with non moisture swelling Hardie Siding Can’t use this product with a high energy efficient wall assembly with rigid foam on the exterior and an air gap between the siding and the foam. Would likely rot out in less than a year.
I have installed both Hardi and LP siding and there is no contest; LP is definitely my siding of choice. Never had a delamination or swelling in over 20 years.
I don’t like smooth siding AND I want my siding to last forever! All you mention here are “ let’s make it easy” info! My hardy board came in white now over 20 years old and still does not need painting!
Did you consider a rainscreen as the water is going to get behind the siding and since it is a wood product it needs to able to dry. Although more difficult to work with I think cement siding long term is the premium product.
I am a home owner with some knowledge of installing and using different products. The only test that counts is on the job usage and time. I predict this product will prove a failure. Do not trust siding that I have to allow all those gaps because it will soak up moisture. Also shy away from the glued up scrap wood look on back. Born to fail. Have H plank on my sheds and house for over 5 years and SO FAR am super satisfied with it.
Maybe in different regions smart side may hold up to the elements but here in the Pacific NW smart side just doesn’t cut it, we replace 1-2 houses a month that has failed smartside with fiber cement siding, plus at least here it’s 30 percent cheaper as well.
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On the impact test you have brand new OSB with really old fiber cement. The installer visibly drove the hammer harder through the fiber cement. As well as theres no telling if thats authentic Hardie or not (most knock off Hardie is crap). Thats not to say that a wood siding isn't more impact resistant than Hardie, but the demo by no means was controlled. Wood is always going to be more impact resistant UNTIL you get water damage/dry rotting.
This video jus helped me decide which siding I am installing on my house been arguing with myself which siding product I want to use being I am almost doubling the size of my house and removing the steel siding just not a steel siding fan in most cases. I had already eliminated everything except concrete siding and smart siding. I didn't use smart siding when I retired three almost four years ago now. Thanks!
Read the fine print on the LP Smartside warranty. I would never put an OSB based siding on a house. LP also requires annual inspection and maintenance.
I have a couple sample pieces of LP Smartside submerged in a bucket of water outside. Been in there for at least 8 years. Taken out a handful of times to look at them. They are still intact - no delamination, breaking apart or rot.
Yeah because if you go to LP Smartside web site and read up on their siding they have an added chemical in it that helps the product to be more water resistant (forgot the name of the added chemical) and they also if i'm not mistaken added another chemical for termites as i remember when i did some research on LP Smartside. Today's LP Smartside is NOT like OSB and it is way better as far as water resistent. The new LP Smartside is NOT like the old Smartside with this said Hardie is just as good too, just remember on LP Smartside to paint all exposed edges and primer and paint all cut and exposed edges but you suppose to do that with Hardie too. After i used some LP Smartside on my house i told my son let's throw a piece of this LP siding in the yard and see how it holds to the weather and rain and months later after being rained on multiple times nothing was wrong with it. What i did was use Hardie around my exterior windows and corner trim and the LP Smartside everywhere else and so far so good. I figured the house had T1-11 regular wood siding that lasted 25 years so i know for sure i'll get 30 years or more out of the LP Smartside if i live that long because i'll be 81.
hardie may be alot tougher to work with but in the long run its the better choice. smart side will not hold up as well from the elements plus smartside will burn where as hardie wont. for the person installing it yes smartside is alot easier , for the homeowner i would go hardie all day...
handyt butler thank you!!!! It’s people lack common sense. Seriously. LP dumb side is technically speaking man made wood panels. Water absorption and zero fire resistant characteristics....
I have LP SmartSide on my home and it is far superior to Hardie Board. Not only does it perform better when hit with rocks (to simulate one being thrown from a lawn mower) but it is super resistant to the elements. I took a piece that I did not paint or seal the edges and intentionally left it out in the rain turned upside down for over 2 years and it never swelled or had any water damage at all. It is also a much safer product for the installer because you don't have the risk of inhaling the cement particles like you do with Hardie. I would recommend LP SmartSide all day over Hardie.
After 20 years which will still be performing to spec? Homeowners want products that last. What are the fire withstand capability of each board? Should smooth siding be painted on all sides to last?
My recent siding choice was down to Hardie or Everlast composite. I'm very glad we chose the latter. We live near the coast, where it's often wet and windy. Any exterior structural material with wood in it is potentially trouble, including fascia, returns, windows, siding, even shutters.
i install both for a living. as an installer, i'd rather work with LP for many of the reasons you guys have stated. as a homeowner, i'd rather have Hardie on my house.
Question? How is the quality of vinyl siding compared to these two options? I ask because the Hardy Board on our house is getting so rotten I can easily punch indentations into some areas of it with my finger. It’s probably a coincidence but this started after I had our house painted about 4-years ago. The next time I have siding on our house painted, do the painters usually put new caulk or something to prevent water from getting behind the Hardy Boards?
You actually made a great video for Hardie board even though you didn't give one of the attributes of the Hardie board making sure you have enough of that downside of this stuff
Yes it will rot if not sealed properly.Thats why other comment about putting harder on lower part of house the splash zone to prevent this from happening
Tom Senft ...And you’re right, I sleep better at night using ‘real wood’ siding even though y’all have to deal with the splits and splinters. And pre-primed is worth the extra money in the long run. Happy building y’all
Hardy is brittle, heavy, 12 ft and hard to cut BUT i pulled a lot of rotten smartside off houses that weren't but about 15 years old in kansas. It was texture not smooth but it was smartside. Only bad hardy I've removed was because people hit the siding with basketballs and it cracked. I also prime the back of any wood siding before i hang it.
Being in the carpentry trade for 20 years and counting, there is no way possible that smartside is superior to a fiber cement product for longevity. Regardless of what anyone says it is obvious smartside is a oriented strand board product. It will rot over time and no paint will prevent that especially at butt joints. After researching LP smartside for my upcoming build I am choosing a fiber cement product such as hardie.
Not OSB and inaccurate comment. Have you ever used it? And if it will rot, why does the company provide a 50 year warranty? C'mon. They'd be out of business. Hardie, has wood in it as well and is a sponge to water. 12' lengths to LP's 16'. Less seams , installs faster, and far more durable.
How is this stuff off moisture gets behind it? It’s a wood product so I guess it can burn, and rot. Hardie won’t do either. I did Hardie for the fire resistance, and it still holds the original coat of paint, after 20 years. This new stuff seems like the old Masonite product, which swelled and bucked. No thanks!
I build in heavily forested areas up in the mountains subject to wildfires. Hardie is the only way to fly. If you don't have fire concerns, sure LP is easier, but at the end of the day, its just OSB.
May be a good product, but LP completely screwed the pooch on the old, defective siding by refusing to own up to producing a crap product. All they did was point the finger of blame at everyone but themselves. Being such weasels on that issue will keep me from using their current siding...no matter how good it is.
My brother had a piece of Smartlap (wood grain textured) get covered with dirt next to a pile by his shed. Was covered in dirt out in the weather (in Nebraska so all weather conditions) for at least 5 or 6 years. He cleaned it off when it was dug up and you couldn't find any rot or bad spot on it. I was sold on it from that point on. Not that I think Hardi is a bad product either though.
I have done these test with different products from time to time and they pass. As a contractor once told me, they pass all your test until you put them on your house and they fail. Tip never use decking that is a wrap.
@@yepper1165 I can see that. I got off topic a bit. Switched from siding to decking boards, the new type. The company was so proud of this product that they gave a solid warranty for the product and labor. Lucky for me. They fully replaced it once and a year later gave me a total refund. The product was a wrap. Like made of milk bottles etc and wrapped with a cover of virgin pvc. Many new things are a gamble and you do not always win. So, hope this helps. If you are using decking and it is a wrap, I would use something else.
@@dustbat Thanks fir the explanation. That's definitely good to know! I personally like trying new products. But you're right, sometimes they don't stand up to our expectations or just don't work for some applications or climates.
I was a test house for LP Smartside in SC. I really like it for many reasons, but man does it move during the seasons. Anyone that purchases this make damn sure you paint your cuts and back flash.
@@SJ-gd6bo It expands one time as it acclimates once to the humidity environment. The material comes manufactured with 5 - 6% moisture content, and for a reason. It's very dry. It then has to adjust on the wall, thus the minor gaping requirements. Install it tight and it will buckle. Like any building product, install it per the manufacturers instructions and guidelines. Not rocket science here but unfortunately too many are "experts" in the trades and fail to do so. Unlike PVC trim (AZEK) and others, it will not fluctuate with temperature. So your statement that "it expands and contracts heavily" is inaccurate.
@@teamplayer1218 well as i said, I was one of the first homes in my area to have Smartside installed on my home. Even the reps did a site visit to check there product. After having this product for almost 5 years, I can absolutely confirm my statement is accurate and true. However, Smartside vs Hardie, I would use Smartside again.
Been using hardie for almost 25 years even installed it on my personal home in 02 still looks great with the original paint. It's harder to install very heavy, 12' joints, lots of dust and almost impossible to fix a bad board in the center of a wall. I would use it again on my next home. I haven't used the LP looks like the old masonite siding before hardie and vynal took over.
The LP siding that looks like masonite is called Canexel. It is made in Nova Scotia. It was on my house for 40 years (built on 1972) and I replaced it with more Canexel. It comes prefinished in 20 colours and blind nailed. In my opinion superior to any other siding.
I cut a lot of Hardie plank. Destroyed the bearings in my table saw eventually. Saws take a beating. Never used the other stuff but next time I get to try it I will for sure.
As a handyman who fixes this stuff ALL THE TIME, let me tell you, I replace rotten Smart Siding on a regular basis but I’ve never once repaired rotten Hardie. Shit is not smashing into homes on a regular basis. This “smash test” is just some propaganda created by the Smart Siding company to boost their product. It’s garbage, y’all. They pay content creators to make videos like this.
I’ve hung a lot of Hardy, I’ve done 2 houses with Smart Side. Too me Smart Side looks and I’m away is kind of like trying to side with good flooring. If I could pick Aluminum, plastic, Hardy or Smart Side to do my own personal house. On a house with brick it’s great on soffit and fascia . Your house has gables, its very good in the gables.
The Upside of Downsizing what would you like to know. I’m sorry about that post. Yes i was kind of drunk when I posted. Too many hours playing poker and drinking good whiskey.
The Upside of Downsizing the guy is right about Smart siding. We set all or work on saw horses. You can go pretty fast if you have your work up higher. Hardy side is nasty to cut. Smart Side, like I was talking about having your work on sawhorses goes pretty fast when cutting. Hardy can’t handle hail or kids that like throwing things at a house. You can float out a wall with Smart Side. Not being able to handle hits and the cutting is all I can say about Hardy. When you get good you can use a stapler or roofing gun to nail it. Hardy will be torn up from using air nailers. Even hand nailed that last hit with a hammer can leave a dimple from your hammer head when hand nailing.
I agree smartlap is a great product, much better than fiber cement. On the butt joints you should put flashing behind joint, then you don't need to caulk the joint. Caulking butt joints looks terrible.
End Grain of wood or engineered wood is always much more likely to absorb moisture. The back is also completely protected from getting wet when installed properly. Good question. Thanks
Lap siding NEVER lasts here in FL.... unless it’s an old house with sanded pine treated with CCA hahaha. We have A LOT of stucco on OSB and when I do a repair its always pretty gnarly. It all sucks hahahaha. I’ve noticed a lot of builders doing 4x8 sheets board and Batton with 1x. They say it stays put a lot better and doesn’t leak as bad as lap. Siding blows hahaha
because often after siding is installed it is thrown across a job site or impacted with no backing .....Water test is the only test anyone cares about. Submerge a piece in water for 24 hours weighing them before and after then we have a test.
When you touched it showing the end joints at 4:40 it seemed to flex like vinyl siding. Was it flexing or was it just shadows that the camera was picking up?
Dumb question. Do you guys have a video or can you show/tell me how to finish hardiplank siding at the top of wall at the soffit area? Been looking around, can't seem to find one
QUESTION... I bought a house that was built with some siding that I need to identify because I need to buy a bunch more for another building, but can't find any images of it online. It's an engineered wood product, but has a plastic strip running at an angle along the back of it, about 1/4 of the way from what I assume is the bottom of the boards. Any idea what that might be? Thanks! C
I have used both products; and have to agree Smart Siding in every aspect is a superior product. Hardi DOES absorb moisture too...Instead of painting the cut ends, one could just dip the ends in clear deck sealant to seal. Quicker, and absorbs sub surface. If desired, follow with a coat of primer. Cheers!
One point of misinformation here as the guy otherwise is spot-on. SmartSide comes out very dry after the manufacturing process. The lap siding has to be gaped butt-end to but-end 3/16 or 1/8 as that is fine as well. Reason being is that the material will acclimate to the humidity environment one time and expand slightly. It will NOT contract and expand like PVC which does so with fluctuating temperatures. SmartSide overall in my opinion blows FiberCement away in so many areas. 50 year warranty with a 5 year labor coverage should anything go wrong in that time frame. No other manufacturer offers that labor component to my knowledge.
@@jaye9300 Actually I've seen many instances of Hardie cracking, it is very brittle, the smart siding had a good warranty. I've used both, I would definitely go with the smart siding.
I’ve seen horror stories with Hardie planks under hail storms, brittle crap. And I don’t care that they give a warranty, because who wants to replace your homes siding every time there’s a hail storm....I sure as hell don’t. I’d much prefer Smart Side, at least with Smart Side you don’t have to worry about anybody falling sideways unbalanced on your Hardie Board and breaking....just isn’t worth it as far as I’m concerned.
I've been using SmartSide for 21 years on several new homes and other projects. The 1999 home I built has the original ONE coat of paint on it, the owner doesn't like the color but won't repaint until it needs it!! Cement based siding is terrible, but was pushed on the market very aggressively. I used it once, NEVER AGAIN.
This product will be like Masonite siding easy to put on so 5 years later they can put it on again. I put Hardie board with factory paint quite a few years ago and it looks as good and weathered as it did the day they put it on. When they tell you that the sides can soak up moister, do NOT buy it unless you are going to use it inside the house.
I haven't used the Smart Siding yet could you please talk more about the trim to go along with the Smart Siding like the corners and what goes around the windows
All sorts of trim options, premade corners with nailing fins and also for windows. I think there is even a dadoed "No-Caulk" corners and trims. And if you don't like what is available, there are companies that will custom make trims for the Smart Side.
I think that water will get behind the boards and freeze thaw will force water into those particle layers. Once swelling starts, the boards are ruined.
Y'all should also do a water test and see which one is more durable to water and I bet you will have a different outcome. I totally agree with you on LP being lighter as well as much easier and safer to cut without a doubt. As for the strength durability, I don't ever plan on having a board up with nothing behind it so I'm not so worried about it breaking like that and don't plan on anything hitting it like that once it's up either so that test doesn't do anything for me. However, if I'm putting exterior siding up on a house where it will always see rain and have chances of moisture I'd rather just wear a respirator and change my blade or tool to cut something like Hardie Board that I know won't rot or get damaged from it getting wet like LP Smartside basically even tells you it will themselves in their warranty. Then you also have to worry about termites with LP and you don't with fiber cement. Seems kinda sketchy to me is all I'm saying so I rather not even risk it.
This book is awesome! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzaRUJNcbypw-fRBDbqqz43ULIa-1EGP- It has loads of pictures and videos, and it shows you everything you need to know about tiny homes. It covers all the basics of a house, from plumbing to electricity. It also has some cool floor plans of some of the most popular tiny homes out there. I had a blast reading this book and learning so much. The only thing that bugged me was that the description said it had floor plans, but it didn't say how few there were.
I have Hardi on my house. LP on my shed. You can throw baseballs at the LP and it doesn’t dent. However, I put the the Same Sherwin Williams Emerald paint on them on the same day. 8 years later the paint looked much better on the Hardi. And there was some slight water damage on the LP. Both good products. If you have kids playing ball around ur house... LP. Otherwise get Hardi.Mine is 18 years old and I don’t regret it.
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
I am a Remodeling contractor in Washington state, yes cedar and OSB board siding is way easier to work with then fibre cement type products, though, the majority of repairs and replacements that I have completed are L.P products , or weather worn natural wood products .
Fibre cement products hold up to wind driven rain far longer then the other products in general use , given proper installation and final finish .
Well I had some hardi lying around for 15 years outside uncovered. I washed it, installed it and threw 2 coats of latex paint on it and it's doing fine. I'm impressed. I'm reluctant to use any osb on exterior.
I see you guys don't have your siding bottom edge end with tops of doors and top and bottom of window casing. Yes you have to vary the exposure to make it happen. That's never noticed when done right.
I would say any house built before 1950 was done this way. New guys wouldn't know about it if they weren't told. You've been told now.
Take a few minutes to look at old houses versus new in this regard. Old way was much classier. Once your eye is trained you'll get it.
Thanks guys !
Hardie plank is fire rated. In Australia we need to use hardie plank for compliance with fire ratings. That osb board crap will rot out and catch fire but is great if it starts raining hammers..
good for ausies
🤭👍🤣👉🌧
the raining hammers comment is right on point! its laughable that people put products through unrealistic tests that have little to no bearing on real world outcomes.
Weirdly enough I used the Smart side (unpainted) as a fence material. It's been in the weather for over 2 years and it's holding together pretty decent. The glue has a couple extra additives to make it water resistant. So far so good.
"Raining hammers"
We get baseball sized hail out her in Texas, so that's pretty close to raining hammers.
The real question is the long term durability, my money is on Hardie Board.
It depends on where you live. In the humid Northwest, Hardie Board will excel because it doesn't dry out. Smart Side will tend to rot there. In Northern Wisconsin where I am, HB will crack horribly. LP Smart Side prefinished from the supplier will last and last. I think the finish has a 30 year warrantee.
@@greggyp647 then stay with alum or cedar smart will let very low ones rot
Hardie isn't all that down here in Texas just like wood siding it will decay around the nail and goes quickly down hill if not kept caulked or painted regularly . I will give it is fire resistant but not to impressed with how brittle it is
It seems like the opinion is from an installer point of view. Which one is best for the consumer that wants a better long term product?
LP seems to resist rot and breakages better in Midwest
My biggest concern is water resistance and long term weathering.
I started as a painter. Took me 10 years to teach my carpenter buddy to PAINT ALL SIX SIDES BEFORE INSTALLING. Moisture can enter the product through the back side unless this product is sealed somehow, and that will significantly reduce the lifetime of the paint job, as well as subsequent paint jobs. I especially don't trust OSB, especially in my climate as we see the product rot out, especially under windows.
N. Johnsoh some painters don’t like painting all sides on a interior door. Ever looked in your closet above the door?
N. Johnsoh OSB is pure garbage
There are small gaps under my plank siding. I’m concerned about moisture getting through the gaps during strong wind and rain or during pressure washing.
What’s your thought of caulking between the planks? Seems caulking would reduce wind and moisture penetration but would it hold moisture behind the siding thereby delaying drying and leading to mold and/or rot?
Craig Wheeless
We used to caulk between the butt joints but now prefer to slip a piece of flashing behind there. The problem with caulk is that it tends to let go with the expansion and contraction of the siding, and this also allows the caulk to show after its been painted. The butt joints will not absorb much water if properly painted and sealed, and any water that is absorb now has a path to dry. Also, you always assume that any method will fail to stop water from getting in at some point, and therefore plan for a way to let the water/moisture back out.
N. Johnsoh
Thank you!
I used the early version of this 20 years ago it failed bad . It had a gide groove and the edge wasn't preprimed then they removed the grove and it came wrapped with a factory finish much improved weaknesses is still cuts prime and high quality caulk a must, by the time you pre-paint not sure your savings anything
We removed and recycled a 12yr old full house of smart sheet board from a house to be demolished. It sat in our yard for 18 months. It showed zero signs of swelling on the cut edges snd there was absolutely no rot. We had to purchase some new sheets and they were slighly different thickness so we worked with that. We've now been in our house for 5 yrs, making the original sheets 17 yrs old, it still looks fabulous, ee have had mo problems with any of it. We priced out Hardy Board and it would have cost 4x more to complete our house. My husband built a green house and resided a garden shed with the scap left overs. We are extremely happy with this product.
Nice attention to detail regarding painting any cut ends. I’ve seen so many contractors skip little details like that.
2 1/2'' siding nails in between every stud...as a plumber i love this product, the amount of money ill make on back charges to fix pipes with nail holes will help me put my kids through college..lol
If you guys put plates on like you're supposed to they wouldn't be hitting nails
No Richard. Lee is talking about the nails between the studs.
@@kilokslr no I think he's talking about the nails blowing through the Exterior wall in-between the 16" oc studs and hitting random pipes and wires!!!!!
(Hence the $arca$m he u$ed)
Which idiot plumbers/designers run pipes in exterior walls? Pipes freeze, even in Texas.
Pipes, in exterior walls? Never heard of her.
Try the impact test with the backsides of both products fully supported as they would be when nailed to the structure.
I am not sold brother. I don’t give a damn what coating you put on OSB. It is still OSB. I agree Hardie is a pain to work with but it is a far superior product.
Russell Nentwich right
Your right those guys are full of it Hardy is a much better product and most high end homes around here will use it or something similar instead of smart siding or any wood.
@Mr Sunshines there is no argument. I am just relaying information. I was just agreeing with the original post. I used Hardy on my property and work with it everyday. It is not as difficult to put up as he makes it seem. It cuts fine with a Hardy blade and a circular saw. Everything he says goes against what I know from putting up Hardy plank. I am not saying anything about fragility of Hardy. It last longer and no need to prime or seal.
Mr Sunshines calm down bro, it’s going to be okay.
And you would be wrong. Smart Side is far superior to Hardie in every way.
Hardieboard looks exactly like real painted or opaque stained wood when finished, and if installed correctly, it's beautiful!
Contractors love it because it's a lot easier to work with, but homeowners will be cursing the contractor 15 - 20 down the road when their siding rots of the side of their house.
Rainscreen
I definitely understand the dilemma about using LP vs. Hardie, but ultimately I would choose Hardie. Many people have commented the pros and cons and, like you said, it really comes down to the fact LP is sooo much easier to work with. You need specialized tools to cut and install Hardie which is why it isn't a diy kind of product. Thanks for showing the LP, and I hope you have good success with it.
Another tip: Get gecko clamps. I did a hardie job by myself and it made it really easy. The smart side seems like it's a lot easier to deal with.
another thing to help install is the stepped tip for your nail gun
www.amazon.com/EZi-Gauge-siding-Nailer-Offset-attachement/dp/B07645SYY7
Gecko gauges also work with smart siding. But it's an inferior product. LP siding has had tons of lawsuits against it in the past. This stuff is no better. Check out the manufacturer's install instructions.
@@christophermalloy2 Wrong Chris. The old Innerseal was the LP product that failed. LP settled that in a big way and took ownership. This stuff has been redesigned an out there over 20 years and blows FiberCement away.
I tested the Hardi Plank in my New Home Model for 3 1/2 years . I placed it in the back of the toilet tank and would take in and out several times a week to show future home buyers. It never rotted. But it for sure is tougher to install . And can , like it shows in the video break when hit hard. But if you hate rot . This holds up great and paint real last a long time on it .
It doesn't rot , yes. But will absorb moisture over time.
And everyone leaves out the part where it's almost completely Fireproof
@@teamplayer1218 I’ve never seen Hardie swell and delaminate from moisture, even the scrap piece he used in the video looks to have been sitting outside on the ground for a long long time.
You literally would take buyers into the bathroom and make them watch while you fished something out of the toilet ... to demonstrate Hardie board to them?
I have been using Hardie textured for the bottom 30"-36" and switching to LP textured from there up. My home buyers get the quality and protection of the Hardie in the "splash zone" but save the money the rest of the way up. The textures are so close that no one notices the difference unless it is pointed out to them.
That's a good idea.
This is not a recommendation but I built a pump house with Smart board siding and didn't paint it for ten years. It came primed and looks great. After ten years in the south Texas humidity there wasn't a single flaw and one coat of paint made it look like new. I've installed a lot of Hardie siding for others but wouldn't use it for any of my own buildings.
Hardy is fireproof Smart Siding is not let's hear you explain that
@@thecloneguyz I've seen brick houses burn to the ground. Fireproof is a weak selling point when the structure beneath it isn't. Smart Siding is also less brittle and holds up to hail better. I'm not a Smart Siding sponsor but it does have advantages however Hardy offers more design options.
@@BulletproofPastor Smart Siding has millions of dollars of class action lawsuits against it in the 70s all they did is changed the name you'd have to be stupid and cheap to put that stuff on your house t-111 is better than that crap
@@thecloneguyz I take the title "cheap" as a compliment but stupid I'm not. If Smart Siding was just a name change for the old LP siding (like my neighbor had fail on his house) Louisiana Pacific would be bankrupt by now. The new product is nothing like what they made in the 70's and I've seen both. Calling this product as just a name change is no different than thinking Zip Panels are just another OSB.
I think LP would be good here in South Texas
When you threw the smart side in the air for the "break" test, it pretty much fluttered to the ground like a feather.....of course it didn't break. Also, as it was turning it looked like particle board on the back. I'll stick to Hardie for my next house.
Additionally , my own house has brick veneer up to the window sills , along with a minimum 24" eave on house and 48 " on detached garage .
On all the resides we did for LP failures, 80-90 residence s , no customer requested re reinstalling LP , OSB, lap siding / panels !
90 % replacement was done with James Hardie , fibercement products !
Those jobs took place from 1996 - 2011 , with another wave of the second generation LP products now failing, we will be busy for some time replacing those installs .
Cheers
I have no experience with siding but do know of people who used OSB for house construction and now 20 years later are getting soft panels. So to think that it would work as an outside weather barrier... ?!
What is the specific failure you have seen? Elaborate please or dont criticize. Thanks
There is no second wave of failures Brian. Get it right.
Put on Smart Side last year! Our contractor said he won”t even install Hardy! We love it!
Lots of mis-information here:
(1) If your cutting Hardie using a grinder, your doing it wrong. When cutting Hardie you use a blade designed specifically for Fiber Cement. Check out Diablo Blades designed for fiber cement, will dramatically reduce dust. You can also get a saw with a vacuum connection if your doing enough siding work to justify it.
(2) Your impact test is a “false” test, as siding is designed to be hung in the wall w/sheathing behind it. What you’ll then find is that Hardie is a more durable product that won’t dent/crater like a wood based product like LP will. I’ve seen golf balls go through LP, not so much with Hardie when on the wall. The old hammer test, has been used by LP for years, and is full of misconceptions.
(3) LP being lighter is its core advantage w/ 16’ lengths when compare to Hardie. Here is the problem with the product, it’s still a wood based product. Wood based products will rot over time and be more subject to pests like Wood Peckers/Termites. In addition wood based products WILL expand at joints, so while there maybe LESS joints with an LP sided house vs Hardie, you will need to allow a 3/16” gap at those joints to allow for expansion, which will need to be flashed And caulked. The more caulking you do, the more Maintance there is for the homeowner down the road. Hardie is recommended to have moderate contact (touching) at butt joints w/ NO caulk and just 6” wide flashing behind it. It will look better and have less caulk to replace in the future.
(4) Edge Checking: as water penetrates LP (and it will for any siding), the outside film and interior pressed board will separate at the edges this will cause cracking of LP near the exposed board edges. Hardie doesn’t have that issue.
(5) Fire ratings: LP is a wood product, which will add fuel to a fire; Hardie will at most only scorch.
(6) Look at Color Plus Hardie. Saves the customer money, and you time and money (cutting out a painter/labor). And gives you a superior paint as it’s painted in a factory controlled environment. It requires the crew to take their time, and be more diligent it’s handling (ie better).
(7) stop hold the boards flat when moving them, they need to be held on the side. Of course if you hold any board flat it will cause to act like a wet noodle and create micro cracks in the board.
LP angle to the market is to appeal to easier installation for the tradesmen. Hardies (and fiber cement board in general), is to appeal to the homeowner with a longer lasting product with low maintenance. Whom do you ultimately serve? If it’s the homeowner, Hardie and fiber cement siding is the clear winner.
Shaddap
John Zaranek an amazing and thorough rebuttal comment about the pros and cons of LP vs Hardie... do you have any other insightfully commentary???
Hardie is garbage.
Ben: You comment on LP's product being wood based and will rot is so wrong and misleading and just inaccurate Do you even know how the stuff is made? Answer: You don't. Stop posting mis-information. As for termites? They test this stuff in termite mounds and the Zinc Borate in the product turns them away. I could go on.
I’ve been using Smartside since 2007. Great product, never had a callback.
Recently built a house, after pricing hardy board and smart board, we bricked the whole thing. We used smart for the eves and such. 30 year warranty, mostly boils down to keeping a good paint on it
Great video.... We just finished our home in northern Michigan with Smart Board. Love it! Two other contractors also warned about Hardie Board for our project.
Thanks a lot Eric. Hell of a way to end a vid. I just about fell out of my chair when it ended and no one, I mean NO ONE, said “bye!”. 😓
Now I feel violated. 🤭
He said "buy"
I am so glad I found this video!!!!
Impact resistance isn't what matters at all in an exterior product it comes down to how long it lasts in the elements. I'd take a more effective product over an easier to use product any day of the week.
Smart siding is not easier to use. This guy is full of $@#&. I do a lot of Hardy and it goes on fast and simple. Coil gun, gekkos, Hardy blade, eight foot or six foot level and a good cut man. Butt factory to factory no gaps. No need for nippers or grinder. No priming, painting or sealing. Just paint after it is up.
@@speedgonzalez489 I think he's just talking about the dust from cutting hardie which is pretty annoying it gets inside tools, and forces you to wear a mask when cutting it or risk your health.
Stephen Balon same with wood! Cutting wood without a mask, acting like it doesn’t get inhaled. Especially osb
Its not just about impacts. Its about settling and flexing too. All which will cause Hardie to crack.
I still go with the hardie, that smooth board you like will weather and waterlogged in a short time, they had problems with this similar looking board years ago , I see its back again
That was a Masonite product, tiny fibers, which soaked up water much more than osb. And epoxies have come a long way, and Cement board has the same issues if not properly sealed..it will absorb moisture.
@@colinglidden5702 You are totally correct on this. Also LP siding has different chemicals in it than the LP OSB. People need to read up on their web site and also call LP and ask questions because that's what i did and Hardie is just as good or better.
I have replaced many houses sided with LP siding manufactured in a similar way as smart side. Like OSB, it easily absorbs moisture and water and swells and then you spend twice as much to replace with non moisture swelling Hardie Siding
Can’t use this product with a high energy efficient wall assembly with rigid foam on the exterior and an air gap between the siding and the foam. Would likely rot out in less than a year.
I have installed both Hardi and LP siding and there is no contest; LP is definitely my siding of choice. Never had a delamination or swelling in over 20 years.
I think success with LP depends upon how wet the locality is
I don’t like smooth siding AND I want my siding to last forever! All you mention here are “ let’s make it easy” info! My hardy board came in white now over 20 years old and still does not need painting!
That hardie looked like it was in a fire before that test?
Prince Home Builders Inc. Prince it looked like it was left in water for a long time. When it is new it’s not that weak.
Cerebro Mind yep. I have some left over from when my house was built. It is not that brittle. But this stuff does absorb water and it does crack.
I’m a tree guy and I really enjoy your construction videos.
Did you consider a rainscreen as the water is going to get behind the siding and since it is a wood product it needs to able to dry. Although more difficult to work with I think cement siding long term is the premium product.
I am a home owner with some knowledge of installing and using different products. The only test that counts is on the job usage and time. I predict this product will prove a failure. Do not trust siding that I have to allow all those gaps because it will soak up moisture. Also shy away from the glued up scrap wood look on back. Born to fail. Have H plank on my sheds and house for over 5 years and SO FAR am super satisfied with it.
I think the pre-painting is the key to success with this product. I think they should have coated the backside at the factory.
I agree but will it void the warranty?
The "barley hit the smart siding but use full force on the hardie impact test"
Maybe in different regions smart side may hold up to the elements but here in the Pacific NW smart side just doesn’t cut it, we replace 1-2 houses a month that has failed smartside with fiber cement siding, plus at least here it’s 30 percent cheaper as well.
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Lucca Solomon instablaster ;)
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@Lucca Solomon No problem :D
On the impact test you have brand new OSB with really old fiber cement. The installer visibly drove the hammer harder through the fiber cement. As well as theres no telling if thats authentic Hardie or not (most knock off Hardie is crap). Thats not to say that a wood siding isn't more impact resistant than Hardie, but the demo by no means was controlled. Wood is always going to be more impact resistant UNTIL you get water damage/dry rotting.
Yes Hardie is going to be strong It is concrete so u found a conspiracy
hardie is so brittle and snaps easy.
@@wanderingwagers3755 real hardie shouldn't. thats why they add fiber to the cement lol
@@Cdv360 I have had it snap on me carrying it gently many times. Not a bad performing product just a real pain to work with
Hardie is not as durable regardless if it is new or old.
This video jus helped me decide which siding I am installing on my house been arguing with myself which siding product I want to use being I am almost doubling the size of my house and removing the steel siding just not a steel siding fan in most cases. I had already eliminated everything except concrete siding and smart siding. I didn't use smart siding when I retired three almost four years ago now. Thanks!
Hardy is fireproof Smart Siding will go up in flames and seconds
Read the fine print on the LP Smartside warranty.
I would never put an OSB based siding on a house. LP also requires annual inspection and maintenance.
I have a couple sample pieces of LP Smartside submerged in a bucket of water outside. Been in there for at least 8 years. Taken out a handful of times to look at them. They are still intact - no delamination, breaking apart or rot.
Yeah because if you go to LP Smartside web site and read up on their siding they have an added chemical in it that helps the product to be more water resistant (forgot the name of the added chemical) and they also if i'm not mistaken added another chemical for termites as i remember when i did some research on LP Smartside. Today's LP Smartside is NOT like OSB and it is way better as far as water resistent. The new LP Smartside is NOT like the old Smartside with this said Hardie is just as good too, just remember on LP Smartside to paint all exposed edges and primer and paint all cut and exposed edges but you suppose to do that with Hardie too. After i used some LP Smartside on my house i told my son let's throw a piece of this LP siding in the yard and see how it holds to the weather and rain and months later after being rained on multiple times nothing was wrong with it. What i did was use Hardie around my exterior windows and corner trim and the LP Smartside everywhere else and so far so good. I figured the house had T1-11 regular wood siding that lasted 25 years so i know for sure i'll get 30 years or more out of the LP Smartside if i live that long because i'll be 81.
Painting is not priming. End cuts and rips should be primed. It’s all good. We will continue our careers replacing the latest LP product.
I agree. A good primer is a must.
hardie may be alot tougher to work with but in the long run its the better choice. smart side will not hold up as well from the elements plus smartside will burn where as hardie wont. for the person installing it yes smartside is alot easier , for the homeowner i would go hardie all day...
handyt butler thank you!!!! It’s people lack common sense. Seriously. LP dumb side is technically speaking man made wood panels. Water absorption and zero fire resistant characteristics....
Yep. No way I would put this on my home or someone's that knew.
I have LP SmartSide on my home and it is far superior to Hardie Board. Not only does it perform better when hit with rocks (to simulate one being thrown from a lawn mower) but it is super resistant to the elements. I took a piece that I did not paint or seal the edges and intentionally left it out in the rain turned upside down for over 2 years and it never swelled or had any water damage at all. It is also a much safer product for the installer because you don't have the risk of inhaling the cement particles like you do with Hardie. I would recommend LP SmartSide all day over Hardie.
Fido Paws cool story Home Depot fan boi
@@pavelomar4631, get lost moron.
After 20 years which will still be performing to spec? Homeowners want products that last. What are the fire withstand capability of each board? Should smooth siding be painted on all sides to last?
SmartSide has the same 50 year warranty as Hardie. As for fire, if your house is made of wood then the siding is not going to matter much.
My recent siding choice was down to Hardie or Everlast composite. I'm very glad we chose the latter. We live near the coast, where it's often wet and windy. Any exterior structural material with wood in it is potentially trouble, including fascia, returns, windows, siding, even shutters.
i install both for a living. as an installer, i'd rather work with LP for many of the reasons you guys have stated. as a homeowner, i'd rather have Hardie on my house.
Question? How is the quality of vinyl siding compared to these two options? I ask because the Hardy Board on our house is getting so rotten I can easily punch indentations into some areas of it with my finger. It’s probably a coincidence but this started after I had our house painted about 4-years ago. The next time I have siding on our house painted, do the painters usually put new caulk or something to prevent water from getting behind the Hardy Boards?
You actually made a great video for Hardie board even though you didn't give one of the attributes of the Hardie board making sure you have enough of that downside of this stuff
how about in a rainforest environment? will SS hold up to heavy moisture and rain?
Been using it for the last five years,great product.👍👍
Yes it will rot if not sealed properly.Thats why other comment about putting harder on lower part of house the splash zone to prevent this from happening
Hey, you know what I buy in 16' lengths regularly? Wood siding. What this stuff is meant to mimic.
My butt joints mostly disappear.
Tom Senft ...And you’re right, I sleep better at night using ‘real wood’ siding even though y’all have to deal with the splits and splinters. And pre-primed is worth the extra money in the long run. Happy building y’all
eh wood grows mold, smart side doesn't
Man your videos have come a long way in just 1 yr!! And I can't believe that one guy had no beard just a year ago!
Hardy is brittle, heavy, 12 ft and hard to cut BUT i pulled a lot of rotten smartside off houses that weren't but about 15 years old in kansas. It was texture not smooth but it was smartside. Only bad hardy I've removed was because people hit the siding with basketballs and it cracked. I also prime the back of any wood siding before i hang it.
Being in the carpentry trade for 20 years and counting, there is no way possible that smartside is superior to a fiber cement product for longevity. Regardless of what anyone says it is obvious smartside is a oriented strand board product. It will rot over time and no paint will prevent that especially at butt joints. After researching LP smartside for my upcoming build I am choosing a fiber cement product such as hardie.
Not OSB and inaccurate comment. Have you ever used it? And if it will rot, why does the company provide a 50 year warranty? C'mon. They'd be out of business. Hardie, has wood in it as well and is a sponge to water. 12' lengths to LP's 16'. Less seams , installs faster, and far more durable.
Smart side easier to install
Hardie made to last
LP SmartSide has the same 50 year warranty as the Hardie and it's more durable than the Hardie.
Fido Paws Only of a homeowner keeps painting and caulking it periodically.
@@tmiranda1379, you have to paint hardiboard also. Smartside is better plain and simple.
Lol...yeh as long as it never gets touched!
@@tecnolover2642 what kind of comment is that? Are you referring to hardiboard or Smartsiding? Smartsiding is superior.
How is this stuff off moisture gets behind it? It’s a wood product so I guess it can burn, and rot. Hardie won’t do either. I did Hardie for the fire resistance, and it still holds the original coat of paint, after 20 years. This new stuff seems like the old Masonite product, which swelled and bucked. No thanks!
I build in heavily forested areas up in the mountains subject to wildfires. Hardie is the only way to fly. If you don't have fire concerns, sure LP is easier, but at the end of the day, its just OSB.
May be a good product, but LP completely screwed the pooch on the old, defective siding by refusing to own up to producing a crap product. All they did was point the finger of blame at everyone but themselves. Being such weasels on that issue will keep me from using their current siding...no matter how good it is.
Sounds like they're based in or shipped out of Deleware, and moved to Washington D.C.
Is it just me or did Ray swing 10 times harder on the Hardee board impact test?
My brother had a piece of Smartlap (wood grain textured) get covered with dirt next to a pile by his shed. Was covered in dirt out in the weather (in Nebraska so all weather conditions) for at least 5 or 6 years. He cleaned it off when it was dug up and you couldn't find any rot or bad spot on it. I was sold on it from that point on. Not that I think Hardi is a bad product either though.
I have a 2 foot piece of smartside hung on a woodpile out back. ( NO. ILL. ) the edges are starting to swell. 6 year on.
I have done these test with different products from time to time and they pass. As a contractor once told me, they pass all your test until you put them on your house and they fail. Tip never use decking that is a wrap.
@@dustbat I didn't understand what you meant by the tip...?
@@yepper1165 I can see that. I got off topic a bit. Switched from siding to decking boards, the new type. The company was so proud of this product that they gave a solid warranty for the product and labor. Lucky for me. They fully replaced it once and a year later gave me a total refund. The product was a wrap. Like made of milk bottles etc and wrapped with a cover of virgin pvc. Many new things are a gamble and you do not always win. So, hope this helps. If you are using decking and it is a wrap, I would use something else.
@@dustbat Thanks fir the explanation. That's definitely good to know! I personally like trying new products. But you're right, sometimes they don't stand up to our expectations or just don't work for some applications or climates.
Thanks this should help with my cabin project.
I was a test house for LP Smartside in SC. I really like it for many reasons, but man does it move during the seasons. Anyone that purchases this make damn sure you paint your cuts and back flash.
It doesn't expand and contract like PVC
@@teamplayer1218 not sure what that means but I assure you it expands and contracts heavily.
@@SJ-gd6bo It expands one time as it acclimates once to the humidity environment. The material comes manufactured with 5 - 6% moisture content, and for a reason. It's very dry. It then has to adjust on the wall, thus the minor gaping requirements. Install it tight and it will buckle. Like any building product, install it per the manufacturers instructions and guidelines. Not rocket science here but unfortunately too many are "experts" in the trades and fail to do so. Unlike PVC trim (AZEK) and others, it will not fluctuate with temperature. So your statement that "it expands and contracts heavily" is inaccurate.
@@teamplayer1218 well as i said, I was one of the first homes in my area to have Smartside installed on my home. Even the reps did a site visit to check there product. After having this product for almost 5 years, I can absolutely confirm my statement is accurate and true. However, Smartside vs Hardie, I would use Smartside again.
@@SJ-gd6bo Don't mean to be abrasive here, but it absolutely will not contract once it acclimates.
I've been told to paint or at least prime the back of the board which will extend the life of the product.
By who? Back-priming or painting is not necessary.
The LP smartside recommends not backpriming
Been using hardie for almost 25 years even installed it on my personal home in 02 still looks great with the original paint. It's harder to install very heavy, 12' joints, lots of dust and almost impossible to fix a bad board in the center of a wall. I would use it again on my next home. I haven't used the LP looks like the old masonite siding before hardie and vynal took over.
The LP siding that looks like masonite is called Canexel.
It is made in Nova Scotia.
It was on my house for 40 years (built on 1972) and I replaced it with more Canexel.
It comes prefinished in 20 colours and blind nailed.
In my opinion superior to any other siding.
Hardie just looks cheap, a step up from vinyl. That fake grain pattern is a dead give away.
@@miragesmack007 i agree the cedar grain looks cheap. The smooth planks looks a lot nicer
Random question...what is the name of the color that you used???
I cut a lot of Hardie plank. Destroyed the bearings in my table saw eventually. Saws take a beating. Never used the other stuff but next time I get to try it I will for sure.
As a handyman who fixes this stuff ALL THE TIME, let me tell you, I replace rotten Smart Siding on a regular basis but I’ve never once repaired rotten Hardie.
Shit is not smashing into homes on a regular basis. This “smash test” is just some propaganda created by the Smart Siding company to boost their product.
It’s garbage, y’all. They pay content creators to make videos like this.
I’ve hung a lot of Hardy, I’ve done 2 houses with Smart Side. Too me Smart Side looks and I’m away is kind of like trying to side with good flooring. If I could pick Aluminum, plastic, Hardy or Smart Side to do my own personal house. On a house with brick it’s great on soffit and fascia . Your house has gables, its very good in the gables.
The Upside of Downsizing what would you like to know. I’m sorry about that post. Yes i was kind of drunk when I posted. Too many hours playing poker and drinking good whiskey.
The Upside of Downsizing the guy is right about Smart siding. We set all or work on saw horses. You can go pretty fast if you have your work up higher. Hardy side is nasty to cut. Smart Side, like I was talking about having your work on sawhorses goes pretty fast when cutting. Hardy can’t handle hail or kids that like throwing things at a house. You can float out a wall with Smart Side. Not being able to handle hits and the cutting is all I can say about Hardy. When you get good you can use a stapler or roofing gun to nail it. Hardy will be torn up from using air nailers. Even hand nailed that last hit with a hammer can leave a dimple from your hammer head when hand nailing.
That didn’t make one bit of sense i was waiting for your conclusion is smart side better or shittier than hardy ??
🙌🙌💯💯💯 the way it shattered, wow.
Yo, props on jamming that Marcus King
Yes! Thank you.
What about potential to rot vs hardie?
What about t1-11? With Osb prices this totally makes sense!
I agree smartlap is a great product, much better than fiber cement. On the butt joints you should put flashing behind joint, then you don't need to caulk the joint. Caulking butt joints looks terrible.
Flashing the butt joints is a great way to do bombproof siding… I do this as well as caulk him to give it a double seal.
Nice is the smart boart avaliable at home depot or lowes ?
Not doing any siding any time soon but I enjoyed the video thanks!
How is the cut end any different from the back side?
End Grain of wood or engineered wood is always much more likely to absorb moisture. The back is also completely protected from getting wet when installed properly. Good question. Thanks
Lap siding NEVER lasts here in FL.... unless it’s an old house with sanded pine treated with CCA hahaha. We have A LOT of stucco on OSB and when I do a repair its always pretty gnarly. It all sucks hahahaha. I’ve noticed a lot of builders doing 4x8 sheets board and Batton with 1x. They say it stays put a lot better and doesn’t leak as bad as lap. Siding blows hahaha
I’m thinking that the backside of those boards should be sealed?
because often after siding is installed it is thrown across a job site or impacted with no backing .....Water test is the only test anyone cares about. Submerge a piece in water for 24 hours weighing them before and after then we have a test.
When you touched it showing the end joints at 4:40 it seemed to flex like vinyl siding. Was it flexing or was it just shadows that the camera was picking up?
Dumb question. Do you guys have a video or can you show/tell me how to finish hardiplank siding at the top of wall at the soffit area? Been looking around, can't seem to find one
QUESTION... I bought a house that was built with some siding that I need to identify because I need to buy a bunch more for another building, but can't find any images of it online. It's an engineered wood product, but has a plastic strip running at an angle along the back of it, about 1/4 of the way from what I assume is the bottom of the boards. Any idea what that might be? Thanks! C
I have used both products; and have to agree Smart Siding in every aspect is a superior product. Hardi DOES absorb moisture too...Instead of painting the cut ends, one could just dip the ends in clear deck sealant to seal. Quicker, and absorbs sub surface. If desired, follow with a coat of primer. Cheers!
If the smart siding will absorb sealer it will absorb water too. The question is which product handles the worst case scenario better.
So this new board is just OSB product that has been tighter packed when made??
Another cheap solution for short time !!!...osb not gor Canadian weather...
One point of misinformation here as the guy otherwise is spot-on. SmartSide comes out very dry after the manufacturing process. The lap siding has to be gaped butt-end to but-end 3/16 or 1/8 as that is fine as well. Reason being is that the material will acclimate to the humidity environment one time and expand slightly. It will NOT contract and expand like PVC which does so with fluctuating temperatures. SmartSide overall in my opinion blows FiberCement away in so many areas. 50 year warranty with a 5 year labor coverage should anything go wrong in that time frame. No other manufacturer offers that labor component to my knowledge.
Should I buy 3/8th or 7/16
Thank you for the video but I would not put that crap on my house. Fiber cement for longevity.
As soon as I saw that pressboard backing, I was certain that this product can’t have the same longevity as hardie.
Can't say that I would use either. Hardies is a rubbish product and the only time I use it is if the client really wants to use it.
@@jaye9300 Actually I've seen many instances of Hardie cracking, it is very brittle, the smart siding had a good warranty.
I've used both, I would definitely go with the smart siding.
I’ve seen horror stories with Hardie planks under hail storms, brittle crap. And I don’t care that they give a warranty, because who wants to replace your homes siding every time there’s a hail storm....I sure as hell don’t. I’d much prefer Smart Side, at least with Smart Side you don’t have to worry about anybody falling sideways unbalanced on your Hardie Board and breaking....just isn’t worth it as far as I’m concerned.
1Ephraimite - have any links it videos? I haven’t found any
I've been using SmartSide for 21 years on several new homes and other projects. The 1999 home I built has the original ONE coat of paint on it, the owner doesn't like the color but won't repaint until it needs it!!
Cement based siding is terrible, but was pushed on the market very aggressively. I used it once, NEVER AGAIN.
I have Cedar that Woodpeckers love was going to replace with Hardie how does Smart Side hold up to woodpeckers?? thanks
This product will be like Masonite siding easy to put on so 5 years later they can put it on again. I put Hardie board with factory paint quite a few years ago and it looks as good and weathered as it did the day they put it on. When they tell you that the sides can soak up moister, do NOT buy it unless you are going to use it inside the house.
I haven't used the Smart Siding yet could you please talk more about the trim to go along with the Smart Siding like the corners and what goes around the windows
All sorts of trim options, premade corners with nailing fins and also for windows. I think there is even a dadoed "No-Caulk" corners and trims. And if you don't like what is available, there are companies that will custom make trims for the Smart Side.
I think that water will get behind the boards and freeze thaw will force water into those particle layers. Once swelling starts, the boards are ruined.
Nice product! Hope you don’t get water intrusion...
peventing water incusion is every thing