P2014 Intake Manifold Runner Position the sensor itself could be bad but that's not likely this is for bank 2 intake manifold Runner sensor if you pull the switch off you'll see that that little arm that shifts your Runner is actually broken and you'll need to replace the whole manifold which comes with all the associated parts that you need except for your lower injector O-rings part# FOPZ-9229-A - O-RINGS part# FL3Z - 9424 - J - INTAKE MANIFOLD TOOLS 7mm 1/4 drive socket 10MM 1/4 drive socket 8mm 1/4 drive socket electric impact 1/4 inch drive or ratchet 1/4 drive extension 10inch ( ish ) small pick or screw driver Sensor Part# FR3Z-9P471-A - SAME BOTH SIDES
dude I pulled mines and changed both actuators in back but now that you showed me that sensor, I believe mines was broken. DAMMIT!!!!!! I have to check again. I am getting code P2007 and it sucks to have to do this again. but men I really want to get my truck running good again. Mines runs fine, but engine stalls a bit once in a while. You think that can be it
Thanks for the information about the intake issue. I was able to diagnose my P2007 trouble code and I am in the process of swapping out my manifold now. The nub that you mentioned was broken on my intake. What a massive design flaw. If you hear of Ford taking any steps to make this issue right, please let us know. Thanks again! You saved me a lot of money in diagnostic charges.
Is there a way to pin the imrc open? And to tune out the runners? The fact that it is controlled by a computer sensor and electric motor and isn’t controlled by vacuum is a reliability issue. The other problem is when accelerating from around 1500-2500 rpms you may hear the 5.0 flapping or shuttering reverberating off of nearby vehicles and buildings when driving and that’s the runner flaps getting loose until they fully open at 3000 rpms. It won’t cause a check engine light but it doesn’t sound right either until the runner finally ceases up or the actuator snaps off the butterfly causing a check engine light. Very frustrating that the entire assembly needs to be replaced for one small and in my opinion insignificant part fails especially with a shortage of car parts. I’d much rather pin the valves open and tune out the imrc system
The early 4.6L DOHCs (Continental) had IMRCs then they did away with them. The shafts created a very small vac leak thru the manifold. That system used a motor housing and a steel cable. This looks very flimsy.
I had the p2007 code with rough idle. I pulled the intake off and found that the pin had snapped off on the drivers side. I welded the broken pin to a small nut and then the nut to the pivot where it had broken off of. I doused the intake with water to keep it from melting. Put intake back on with new gaskets and new injecter o rings. Runs smooth now and check engine light is gone.
So far the most informative video I’ve seen without the mechanic jargon you usually get that makes a 2-3 minute video last several minutes longer. Just curious if this is common with the 2015 5.0 intakes?
My parents hav a 2017 F150. They have been told by the mechanic (not a dealership) that it’s a ‘Intake manifold runner position sensor ‘ and it’s broken like you showed in the video. Problem is Ford went on strike (and now back to work from what I understand)and they cannot get the part. The mechanic told them that they don’t have a clue when Ford is going to have the part available or IF the part is going to become Available. Have you heard anything about the availability of these parts? I’m sure I’m sounding stupid here, just trying to help my parents out.
I have a 20/20 F-150 5.0 that got a new engine back at the end of March this year due to the oil consumption issue. After about 3,000 mi I started hearing a noise that I've been trying to figure out. Is it possible that I'm here in these intake runners slamming shut as I take my foot off the gas and the RPMs fall below 3000? It's a very repeatable dull thud sort of noise coming out from under the hood. You have to accelerate just a little bit aggressively It helps to be in sport mode. Has the engine up shifts in you release pressure on the accelerator the RPMs fall. Usually somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 I get that thump. If it is the intake runners is this a symptom that they're going to fail or what? Thus far I have no engine lights or codes.
@@FordBossMe thanks for your reply! Follow up... When you say it's the intake manifold would that be an issue? Is it possibly not sealed or the gasket is leaking? Or do you mean that's the intake runners making the noise inside the manifold? If it's a throttle body I can't imagine that causing a problem but what am I looking at there? Just the way it sounds when it closes after hard acceleration?
@@FordBossMe When you say it's the intake manifold is that the runners or the gasket or something? If it's the throttle body is that just a characteristic of how this engine will sound or is there something to fix? Either of these are a problem if I drive the truck?
What about on a 2012 f 150 that dosnt have that on the back of the manifold. I’m getting the code for bank one stuck open and I don’t have the diaphragm on the back of the manifold?
I don't know why it's not available that's a manufacturer thing, lately people have been epoxying the little piece back on or taking it to a welder and letting them weld it back on
I'm a little late to the party but do you know if you are still able to get the manifold every ford dealer that I've talked to said that ford issued a national stop sale on the intake manifold as they are supposed to be coming out with a new and improved part, but no one could give me an ETA on when that would be. Since my 15 F150 is now throwing a P2007
Yeah you can't lock out the imrc with the factory stuff if it's broken so you're preaching to the choir I know what can be done and can't be done what you're telling me right now doesn't actually do anything for me
This part has been on backorder for 3 months now. Can't find any used either. Anyone know if I can swap in a 5.0 coyote mustang intake manifold instead?
A lot of people have them snap between the actuator and the manifold and they get no codes. Seems strange this one broke between the actuator and the sensor ? What would cause this a frozen sensor ?
I'm not sure what causes it and this is several of these that I've seen so far and the sensors not froze up at all all I can do is think between shifting from long Runner to short Runner there's some kind of pickup with the way pressure is put on the butterfly while it's shifting due to air pulsing
@@FordBossMe Thanks, got a brand new manifold here i'm about to fit and it doesn't have any intake runner control on it so the title of this vid raised an eyebrow :)
What about trying to fix it before it breaks?? Maybe make a bracket for support. I haven't tried getting to it with the intake still installed yet but If there really isn't any way to prevent it from breaking in the first place I don't want to go tearing my intake off. Any suggestions anyone?
Just found this video today after getting both at P2005 and P2007 on my 2017, which I believe are stuck open/stuck shut on bank 2 respectively? Other than the light there are no symptoms at all, starts and runs perfectly fine - dealer cant look at it for about 5 days. They said no harm to drive until then, would you concur? Mine is still at about 48k miles, should be a warranty repair if I'm reading the powertrain warranty correctly? Great video BTW and thanks for posting.
Yes indeed should be powertrain but they will have to run the numbers Sometimes it could be a vacuum problem with a line....that wouldn't be covered or if it was a sensor it may not be covered but if it's the runners themselves it should be covered
@@FordBossMe Thanks. I have an extended warranty too so if not powertrain related hopefully it will pick up the slack. I had a bad rear end seal and front strut within the first year of ownership but since then the vehicle has been mostly trouble free. Based on the price of buying anything new i'm hoping to keep this one for a long time.
I know this may be a long shot but does anyone know the part number for the bank 2 sensor? I’ve been searching and searching and it only comes up with mustang and I’m unsure if it’s the same or not for a 2016 f150 5.0
If you needed any kind of special tool it would just be a regular fuel line disconnect if you're asking for a specific reason you're trying to take something apart you can send me a picture and let me know look at it I don't remember Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com
I own a 2016 F 150 and my check engine light Just came on. The Code that comes up on my Mechanics Computer is P2019 ( intake manifold runner position sensor ). He and I called every place we could think of to find this part and nobody has it and the ford dealership Says its a months back order to receive it. I use this truck 7 day a week for work traveling over 200 miles a day and cannot be Without it. Any Suggestions, can I bypass this Stupid Sensor, or do you know Where I can purchase a replacement (new or used). Thank you
If you delete the imrc you need to have pcm tuned to run it this way Look at this video supposedly they have Lund programmers for it I can't really answer questions about the delete because I've never done it so don't ask me questions about how to delete it and what the program I don't know anything about that
I've also seen guys take the intake manifold Runner off then take the sensor off of the back of it and make a little metal sleeve and put it back over the broken part and JB Weld it and then put it back together the way it was with the sensor and they're completely fine That's about all the help I can really offer right now sourcing out where to get the manifold that's on you because every place that I'm finding it seems to be coming from a dealership and most of them are backorder or it's going to be hard to get
I have no idea what you're going to need to do I'm not working on the vehicle man you can lock them out with some of the lockout kits if it's available for yours you might have a connection problem or some kind of wiring problem it needs to properly be diagnosed
Thanks for the vid again. Is this a major issue in the 2020 5.0 f150s ? What milelage on average does this issue come in on if u have that info? Thank you and i will take note for my truck. I was hoping they fixed all issues for this gen
@@FordBossMe no need to apologize you can call at YOUR CONVENIENCE brother. And i mean that. I just really appreciate the thought!🙂 Have a blessed and safe night and work week!!
@@FordBossMe Assuming both sensors operate on the same bias, a koeo data pid could certainly get you going in the right direction. My 2020 F150 is a 5.0, so this is definitely valuable information.
Most certainly but then you have to figure out is it the sensor or is it the actual intake manifold Runner If you have a vacuum diaphragm that isnt moving appropriately and it needs vacuum you're going to have to have plenty of vacuum supplied to move it so when it runs its test you would be able to see the sensor change voltage and if the sensor doesn't change voltage the next step is to see if it's a mechanical binding issue or like the nub piece broken or actually a bad sensor or blown out vacuum diaphragm If the diaphragm isn't moving or if the sensor is biased or if the intake manifold Runner is broken a P.I.D. could point you in the right direction but then you're going to have to physically remove the intake manifold to do most of the work and verify
@@FordBossMe True, true. Knowledge of theory and operation are always good, but at some point in time, you're probably gonna have to take stuff apart for a physical inspection. That's where the fun starts in many cases. "I gotta take what off to get to that thing??" lol
I lay across the top of the engine and I use a light and sometimes I'll try to get a mirror to see if I can see if it's broken before I start ripping stuff off or I'll try to fish like a little 8/7 mm on a quarter inch drive ratchet and see if I can pull the sensor off enough to see if it's broken back there but yeah eventually it'll have to come off
Here's why. If the shaft pulls out like this I'll just machine a couple out of stainless, problem solved without replacing the entire manifold. th-cam.com/video/nwhRKLjHzKI/w-d-xo.html @@FordBossMe
I know this is an old video, but I just bought a 2017 F150 5.0. The next day I get rough idle, loss of power, and stuttering. Codes P2005, P2007, and P0022. Anyone have any ideas?
@@alexjansonius5262 I mean it's hard to pull all the stuff out of a hat over a comment section you know it's nice to know more about what's going on with the thing and actually have you more time driving it so there's very minimal I'm going to be able to answer right now especially not at night not having a computer in front of me so I can look at a pinpoint chart I mean it's impossible to try to figure this out right now in this situation
Всем привет! Похоже на моём мустанге 5.0 такая проблема, вылезла ошибка P2006 ряд цилиндров 1! Проверил IMRC и вакумный привод заслонок, всё в порядке, Буду снимать коллектор 😒
Sad...Ford throwed in the towel on there own design back in 97....they are a Mazda v-8 really....Hard to beat and American/push rod Chevy LS engine....I had to turn ship being a Tech.Kudos to you diehard Ford/Mazda guys
Warranty replacement. Intake itself, around $300. Only issue with the truck so far tbh, and the chincy little arm on the runner control hasn't given up yet (10k miles after replacement)
Mazda has never been the Big 3 of Japenese cars...sad but true...growing up.I,m 50..was still the saying...remember Pearl Harbor back when I started as a Tech backm in early/mid 90,s starting as a Nissan Tech in 94.......even the 2 best ol school tech,s at Nissan still Patriotnized/drove American made cars....my how these new guys say FORD....
Thanks for the information about the intake issue. I was able to diagnose my P2007 trouble code and I am in the process of swapping out my manifold now. The nub that you mentioned was broken on my intake. What a massive design flaw. If you hear of Ford taking any steps to make this issue right, please let us know. Thanks again! You saved me a lot of money in diagnostic charges.
P2014 Intake Manifold Runner Position
the sensor itself could be bad but that's not likely this is for bank 2 intake manifold Runner sensor if you pull the switch off you'll see that that little arm that shifts your Runner is actually broken and you'll need to replace the whole manifold which comes with all the associated parts that you need except for your lower injector O-rings
part# FOPZ-9229-A - O-RINGS
part# FL3Z - 9424 - J - INTAKE MANIFOLD
TOOLS
7mm 1/4 drive socket
10MM 1/4 drive socket
8mm 1/4 drive socket
electric impact 1/4 inch drive or ratchet
1/4 drive extension 10inch ( ish )
small pick or screw driver
Sensor Part# FR3Z-9P471-A - SAME BOTH SIDES
dude I pulled mines and changed both actuators in back but now that you showed me that sensor, I believe mines was broken. DAMMIT!!!!!! I have to check again. I am getting code P2007 and it sucks to have to do this again. but men I really want to get my truck running good again. Mines runs fine, but engine stalls a bit once in a while. You think that can be it
Why do the injector O rings need to be replaced? @fordbossme
And how much for that parts 2 thousand I had a 50 dollar sensor gone was 900 to replace ford cant do this shit really
I have a 2016 f150 5.0 and I think this is happening on it also .There should be a recall for this
Get a lockout kit and a good tune, easy fix
What is a lockout kit
@@3vpossumwhere can I get the lockout kit and tune? I need it! Thanks
In St Louis, MO area
Thanks for the information about the intake issue. I was able to diagnose my P2007 trouble code and I am in the process of swapping out my manifold now. The nub that you mentioned was broken on my intake. What a massive design flaw. If you hear of Ford taking any steps to make this issue right, please let us know. Thanks again! You saved me a lot of money in diagnostic charges.
GREAT HELP dealer sells the kit with gaskets sensers and actuators known problem no recall
Is there a way to pin the imrc open? And to tune out the runners? The fact that it is controlled by a computer sensor and electric motor and isn’t controlled by vacuum is a reliability issue. The other problem is when accelerating from around 1500-2500 rpms you may hear the 5.0 flapping or shuttering reverberating off of nearby vehicles and buildings when driving and that’s the runner flaps getting loose until they fully open at 3000 rpms. It won’t cause a check engine light but it doesn’t sound right either until the runner finally ceases up or the actuator snaps off the butterfly causing a check engine light. Very frustrating that the entire assembly needs to be replaced for one small and in my opinion insignificant part fails especially with a shortage of car parts. I’d much rather pin the valves open and tune out the imrc system
I'm sure there's a way but I don't do that stuff so
The early 4.6L DOHCs (Continental) had IMRCs then they did away with them. The shafts created a very small vac leak thru the manifold. That system used a motor housing and a steel cable. This looks very flimsy.
I'm on the 3rd intake now. 2017 F150. Passenger side both times.
Sorry for chiming in so Late, but how much does this Issue cost the Customer's Upon replacement?? Thanks. Ken.
@@kendavis1198 ; Mine was still under warranty but the bill was about $4300.
I had the p2007 code with rough idle. I pulled the intake off and found that the pin had snapped off on the drivers side. I welded the broken pin to a small nut and then the nut to the pivot where it had broken off of. I doused the intake with water to keep it from melting. Put intake back on with new gaskets and new injecter o rings. Runs smooth now and check engine light is gone.
Nice
Will JB Weld work?? Im just getting tired of fixing Fords F-ups!!
I like this idea. As long as that rod does not have to move it could work?
Did it work? lol
So far the most informative video I’ve seen without the mechanic jargon you usually get that makes a 2-3 minute video last several minutes longer. Just curious if this is common with the 2015 5.0 intakes?
No it's not really a common thing I own one myself but it can happen
So did I hear correctly, if that rod is broken off. The whole manifold will have to be replaced?
Have you seen this cause a knock at idle on the 5.0’s like it does in the 6.2’s?
My parents hav a 2017 F150. They have been told by the mechanic (not a dealership) that it’s a ‘Intake manifold runner position sensor ‘ and it’s broken like you showed in the video. Problem is Ford went on strike (and now back to work from what I understand)and they cannot get the part. The mechanic told them that they don’t have a clue when Ford is going to have the part available or IF the part is going to become Available. Have you heard anything about the availability of these parts? I’m sure I’m sounding stupid here, just trying to help my parents out.
Dormon makes these now. New and improved to fix the oem problem. 299 on rockauto
I have a 20/20 F-150 5.0 that got a new engine back at the end of March this year due to the oil consumption issue. After about 3,000 mi I started hearing a noise that I've been trying to figure out.
Is it possible that I'm here in these intake runners slamming shut as I take my foot off the gas and the RPMs fall below 3000? It's a very repeatable dull thud sort of noise coming out from under the hood. You have to accelerate just a little bit aggressively It helps to be in sport mode. Has the engine up shifts in you release pressure on the accelerator the RPMs fall. Usually somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 I get that thump.
If it is the intake runners is this a symptom that they're going to fail or what? Thus far I have no engine lights or codes.
Intake manifold or throttle body
@@FordBossMe thanks for your reply! Follow up... When you say it's the intake manifold would that be an issue? Is it possibly not sealed or the gasket is leaking? Or do you mean that's the intake runners making the noise inside the manifold?
If it's a throttle body I can't imagine that causing a problem but what am I looking at there? Just the way it sounds when it closes after hard acceleration?
@@FordBossMe When you say it's the intake manifold is that the runners or the gasket or something?
If it's the throttle body is that just a characteristic of how this engine will sound or is there something to fix?
Either of these are a problem if I drive the truck?
Any further comment boss?@@FordBossMe
I’m having this problem.And no one seems to have a replacement intake manifold. My frustration is I need to get the vehicle inspected.
Partsgeek.com
Just pulled a P2007 code. How long could I go with this issue and how much would it cost taking it to a dealer?
It's about a five-hour job plus about $600 for the intake manifold give or take
Do you need a special tool or something to remove the harness on each bank. Got all connections off except for the one on each bank
Send me pictures
Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com
I found a TH-cam video on how to remove thanks
What about on a 2012 f 150 that dosnt have that on the back of the manifold. I’m getting the code for bank one stuck open and I don’t have the diaphragm on the back of the manifold?
On a 2012 f150 it's been a while you'd have to pull the intake manifold and look but unfortunately for you
@@FordBossMe unfortunately for me what?
@@josephbartolomei5514I think he meant unfortunately you have to pull the manifold and look.
Do you happen to know why this part is not available? And do you know of another manifold that works?
I don't know why it's not available that's a manufacturer thing, lately people have been epoxying the little piece back on or taking it to a welder and letting them weld it back on
I'm a little late to the party but do you know if you are still able to get the manifold every ford dealer that I've talked to said that ford issued a national stop sale on the intake manifold as they are supposed to be coming out with a new and improved part, but no one could give me an ETA on when that would be. Since my 15 F150 is now throwing a P2007
Hey did you get anywhere with this? I have a 16 with roughly 60k having the same issue
You can get it used you can get it on eBay you can get it aftermarket but a lot of places stop caring it because they ran out of stock
You can lockout the imrc, and tune it out. Commonly done on swap projects or forced induction applications
Yeah you can't lock out the imrc with the factory stuff if it's broken so you're preaching to the choir I know what can be done and can't be done what you're telling me right now doesn't actually do anything for me
This part has been on backorder for 3 months now. Can't find any used either. Anyone know if I can swap in a 5.0 coyote mustang intake manifold instead?
A lot of people have them snap between the actuator and the manifold and they get no codes. Seems strange this one broke between the actuator and the sensor ? What would cause this a frozen sensor ?
I'm not sure what causes it and this is several of these that I've seen so far and the sensors not froze up at all all I can do is think between shifting from long Runner to short Runner there's some kind of pickup with the way pressure is put on the butterfly while it's shifting due to air pulsing
This is only for 2015+ then? Gen1 Coyotes do not seem to have that stuff on the back of the intake.
No it's not just for 2015 Plus
@@FordBossMe Thanks, got a brand new manifold here i'm about to fit and it doesn't have any intake runner control on it so the title of this vid raised an eyebrow :)
What about trying to fix it before it breaks?? Maybe make a bracket for support. I haven't tried getting to it with the intake still installed yet but If there really isn't any way to prevent it from breaking in the first place I don't want to go tearing my intake off. Any suggestions anyone?
can u replace sensor and have any luck
Do you need to drain coolant to swap the manifold?
I don't think so no
Only need to remove fuel pump connector and relieve pressure. I just repaired my flap rods....welded broken rod into relay lever.
Got a 2017 and both rods snapped,anyone know if a 2018 intake manifold will work on my 2017? I’ve gotten yes’s and no’s
Just found this video today after getting both at P2005 and P2007 on my 2017, which I believe are stuck open/stuck shut on bank 2 respectively? Other than the light there are no symptoms at all, starts and runs perfectly fine - dealer cant look at it for about 5 days. They said no harm to drive until then, would you concur? Mine is still at about 48k miles, should be a warranty repair if I'm reading the powertrain warranty correctly? Great video BTW and thanks for posting.
Yes indeed should be powertrain but they will have to run the numbers
Sometimes it could be a vacuum problem with a line....that wouldn't be covered or if it was a sensor it may not be covered but if it's the runners themselves it should be covered
@@FordBossMe Thanks. I have an extended warranty too so if not powertrain related hopefully it will pick up the slack. I had a bad rear end seal and front strut within the first year of ownership but since then the vehicle has been mostly trouble free. Based on the price of buying anything new i'm hoping to keep this one for a long time.
I know this may be a long shot but does anyone know the part number for the bank 2 sensor? I’ve been searching and searching and it only comes up with mustang and I’m unsure if it’s the same or not for a 2016 f150 5.0
I would love to know this too
I have a 2017 f150 with code p2019 intake manifold Runner position sensor switch circuit bank 2a .I only have 58 000 miles
More than likely you're going to need to pull the intake manifold off to inspect everything
Do you need a special tool for any fuel lines for 2017? Or is that just for the direct injected 18s and up?
If you needed any kind of special tool it would just be a regular fuel line disconnect if you're asking for a specific reason you're trying to take something apart you can send me a picture and let me know look at it I don't remember
Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com
I’m about to replace my air intake manifold I just got the p2007 code
It looks complicated but I just wanna make sure I have all the correct tools
Is there an easy way to remove all the connectors and vacuum in the back of these intake manifold? Took forever to get it off the back side
Its been awhile
No. It's a pain. By now you probably realize that.
I own a 2016 F 150 and my check engine light Just came on.
The Code that comes up on my Mechanics Computer is P2019 ( intake manifold runner position sensor ). He and I called every place we could think of to find this part and nobody has it and the ford dealership Says its a months back order to receive it. I use this truck 7 day a week for work traveling over 200 miles a day and cannot be Without it.
Any Suggestions, can I bypass this Stupid Sensor, or do you know Where I can purchase a replacement (new or used).
Thank you
www.oemfordpartsfast.com/oem-parts/ford-intake-manifold-fl3z9424j
th-cam.com/video/--ICgMzYAjc/w-d-xo.html
If you delete the imrc you need to have pcm tuned to run it this way
Look at this video supposedly they have Lund programmers for it
I can't really answer questions about the delete because I've never done it so don't ask me questions about how to delete it and what the program I don't know anything about that
I've also seen guys take the intake manifold Runner off then take the sensor off of the back of it and make a little metal sleeve and put it back over the broken part and JB Weld it and then put it back together the way it was with the sensor and they're completely fine
That's about all the help I can really offer right now sourcing out where to get the manifold that's on you because every place that I'm finding it seems to be coming from a dealership and most of them are backorder or it's going to be hard to get
I have a f150 2008 replaced the imrc and still getting the code what do I need to do about it or can I delete it it's a 5.4 flex fuel
I have no idea what you're going to need to do I'm not working on the vehicle man you can lock them out with some of the lockout kits if it's available for yours you might have a connection problem or some kind of wiring problem it needs to properly be diagnosed
Thanks for the vid again. Is this a major issue in the 2020 5.0 f150s ? What milelage on average does this issue come in on if u have that info? Thank you and i will take note for my truck. I was hoping they fixed all issues for this gen
This is not a common problem on the 2020s I've only seen one so far
@@FordBossMe kool did my email go thru with my#?
it did I just was lazy today and blahhhhh I forgot to even call I'm so sorry
@@FordBossMe no need to apologize you can call at YOUR CONVENIENCE brother. And i mean that. I just really appreciate the thought!🙂 Have a blessed and safe night and work week!!
You the MVP bro. Thank you!
Thank You
Typical 3 wire sensor? 5 volt reference, ground, and signal return?
it's been awhile but yes I'm almost positive thats exactly what it is
@@FordBossMe Assuming both sensors operate on the same bias, a koeo data pid could certainly get you going in the right direction. My 2020 F150 is a 5.0, so this is definitely valuable information.
Most certainly but then you have to figure out is it the sensor or is it the actual intake manifold Runner
If you have a vacuum diaphragm that isnt moving appropriately and it needs vacuum you're going to have to have plenty of vacuum supplied to move it so when it runs its test you would be able to see the sensor change voltage and if the sensor doesn't change voltage the next step is to see if it's a mechanical binding issue or like the nub piece broken or actually a bad sensor or blown out vacuum diaphragm
If the diaphragm isn't moving or if the sensor is biased or if the intake manifold Runner is broken a P.I.D. could point you in the right direction but then you're going to have to physically remove the intake manifold to do most of the work and verify
@@FordBossMe True, true. Knowledge of theory and operation are always good, but at some point in time, you're probably gonna have to take stuff apart for a physical inspection. That's where the fun starts in many cases. "I gotta take what off to get to that thing??" lol
I lay across the top of the engine and I use a light and sometimes I'll try to get a mirror to see if I can see if it's broken before I start ripping stuff off or I'll try to fish like a little 8/7 mm on a quarter inch drive ratchet and see if I can pull the sensor off enough to see if it's broken back there but yeah eventually it'll have to come off
question i replaced the imrc on my 5.0 gt and its running slower than usual does this need a relearn?
Clear codes and run it
Clear keep alive memory
KAM
Best fix : Mustang GT manifold
***Also, will you please do a video on the infamous "typewriter tick" on the coyote 5.0. ***
I can do a video on sounds but it ain't going to be a very good one it's just going to be General talking
@@FordBossMe you're familiar with the 5.0 tick correct? We all have them! Just some worse than others.
Does anyone have the dimensions of the rod? It looks around 3/16" square
Idk
Here's why. If the shaft pulls out like this I'll just machine a couple out of stainless, problem solved without replacing the entire manifold. th-cam.com/video/nwhRKLjHzKI/w-d-xo.html
@@FordBossMe
3.5mm square. Is it possible that Rockauto may have the repair kit ? I see something but no pics
Can you help me find that kit? Thanks@@ed200152
I know this is an old video, but I just bought a 2017 F150 5.0. The next day I get rough idle, loss of power, and stuttering. Codes P2005, P2007, and P0022. Anyone have any ideas?
Yeah you watch the video that should have gave you an idea
Right but I’m referring to the chance that the p0022 is related.
@@alexjansonius5262 I mean it's hard to pull all the stuff out of a hat over a comment section you know it's nice to know more about what's going on with the thing and actually have you more time driving it so there's very minimal I'm going to be able to answer right now especially not at night not having a computer in front of me so I can look at a pinpoint chart I mean it's impossible to try to figure this out right now in this situation
this is awesome! thanks brother for the education and insight. this was super helpful!
Yvw
I had same issue, I was able to replace the rod itself. No way I was replacing I take manifold for rod that broke.
Show me where the part is? I've never seen an aftermarket rod available
Ford does not have it available
Awesome! We would so appreciate a more detailed description of how you did this repair and if it has given you any issues since the repair! Thanks!
Всем привет! Похоже на моём мустанге 5.0 такая проблема, вылезла ошибка P2006 ряд цилиндров 1! Проверил IMRC и вакумный привод заслонок, всё в порядке, Буду снимать коллектор 😒
just like 1991 , the new 4.6 modular engine intake manifold , cracked water jacket . come on FORD , get it together .
Sad...Ford throwed in the towel on there own design back in 97....they are a Mazda v-8 really....Hard to beat and American/push rod Chevy LS engine....I had to turn ship being a Tech.Kudos to you diehard Ford/Mazda guys
Thanks, very helpful.
mine was replaced in january, right at 49k '17 f150 5.0
how much did it cost?
wow that is low miles for even 1 problem 34k on mine and ford has let me down
Warranty replacement. Intake itself, around $300. Only issue with the truck so far tbh, and the chincy little arm on the runner control hasn't given up yet (10k miles after replacement)
Good information thank you.
Looks like an expensive job. Glad I still have premium care ESP on my 2011 f-150 5.0
about 350 if you source the manifold
if you go through the dealer about 550 - 600 I think
and then about 3hrs labor ish
so about 1000 bucks ish
Nice thick beard man 🧔
Tyvm
Thank you.
YVW
i have 34000 miles on this truck and thats the code im getting passenger side
what harm to just ignore it
It'll run rough and have poor performance in some instances
@@FordBossMe thanks for reply as long as it doesnt limp mode
Mazda has never been the Big 3 of Japenese cars...sad but true...growing up.I,m 50..was still the saying...remember Pearl Harbor back when I started as a Tech backm in early/mid 90,s starting as a Nissan Tech in 94.......even the 2 best ol school tech,s at Nissan still Patriotnized/drove American made cars....my how these new guys say FORD....
Thanks for the information about the intake issue. I was able to diagnose my P2007 trouble code and I am in the process of swapping out my manifold now. The nub that you mentioned was broken on my intake. What a massive design flaw. If you hear of Ford taking any steps to make this issue right, please let us know. Thanks again! You saved me a lot of money in diagnostic charges.