You know there was a reason they used yellow metal for that part Kyle. More than likely to protect the gear box parts because a failure there could mean multiple destroyed gears instead of just one. I'm sure you have considered the engineering decisions that the designers chose in your decision process, but I thought I would just mention it. Very cool your taking on the challenge Kyle. Your braver than me for sure! Good luck brother, thanks for taking us with you on your journey to fix this awesome machine 👍🏻!!
Yeah, you’re right. I responded to that and an above comment. I will say, though overtime they have adapted the design, meaning they made the design more durable because it was becoming a reoccurring issue. I definitely want to give credit to the engineers what they did was amazing but that doesn’t also mean that there are not better ways to do it.
As mentioned early in the video, when that weaker gear was failing, the hardened fastening hardware would fall into the gearbox below and destroy a lot more.
John said: I think it'll be okay. You could be right, but I would have done what he did even if another metal is better because I don't know any better. After reading your comment, I would have done it your way.
This is going to be a fun series to watch Kyle. A lot of repairing, some modification improvements and good old fashion great work. Love this stuff. Keep it up and thanks for sharing.
This is a nice repair Kyle. I totally agree with your idea of fixing this. Since you know, or Lucas knows what causes the part to break and how it happens. I know you will be cautious running the machine so this does not happen. Most likely the machines operator's were part of the cause of failure. We have all seen abuses in the shop. The Lucas Engineer's could have come up with a upgrade like you did. This is going to be a nice machine when you are done rebuilding it. And another asset to your shop for many years. Have a great weekend. 👍 🇺🇸👍
When I was apprenticing for my plumber's cert I had a mentor that showed me a few things about machining. Randy Roach who stood of all of 5'4" and he worked on the Liberty Ships during War2 and he was an incredible source of knowledge on welding and machining. He was a hero to me. I want to thank you sir for letting me take this journey with you as I am retired now but I am still eager to learn. Once again Kyle I thank you.
I really enjoyed your comment. For those of us that learned a trade I would hope that most have a story like yours where we had some sort of mentor in our lives. If there is anything that is missing in the world today, it's that there are not enough young people that want to be mentored. There are some, but too many have the wrong attitude from the start, and they act like things should be given to them and too many lack basic respect and manners, but they want to be treated that way without giving it. The people in this world have changed a lot. Back in the day when young guys like me got a job in the trades were so thankful for someone who would share knowledge with us. Having an older guy who has been in the trades for decades, and to have them take you and put you under their wing, was a true privilege. They taught me knowledge and experience are tools that nobody can ever take from you. For quite a few years I would volunteer to get coffee in the morning, pick up lunch, be the third hand or helper for anyone of those experienced guys. I would be the guy who cleaned up, put away the tools and tried to make it better for those willing to teach me. I knew I was the new 'kid' and that I didn't have real world experience. Those guys knew I was serious, that I paid attention to what they told me and showed me, and that I would give it my best. I would always do extra for any of them because they were teaching me, and I was getting experience and knowledge that was not in books. I knew that I was doing well because I went from the new kid to the guy that could do the more complex things and they would compliment me on not just the finished work but on a personal level. What I learned in my journey is that if you really want to know something and you care about your work, that there are people willing to go above and beyond to teach you. When they are good at what they do, they are proud to show someone else who wants to learn how to do it. When you spend a few days around seasoned professionals, you realize how ignorant you truly are and just how much knowledge they have that only comes with experience. I am so thankful for all those that helped me on my journey to make me who I am.
@@gags730well said sir! I went into my trade in 1970 Church organ building. Which has multiple disciplines within it. Heavy carpentry, ( think of canal lock gates) fine cabinet making ( after all the organ is the church's largest piece of furniture) electronics and associated switchgear, large cabling systems. ( there may be as many as 10,000 different wires going from the console or main distribution box to various parts of a large cathedral organ over many tens of metres distance or even different parts of the church. Pneumatics, leather working ( these two combine in a number of different ways) to produce reservoirs for the wind and to regulate its pressure. Pneumatics which combined with the electrical system can often control the wind to the pipework. And that's before any of the metal side of pipe making is considered( this is normally a separate trade within organ building and includes casting sheets of the various types of Lead/Tin / Antimony alloys required for the tonal outcome desired in the organ. And of course the highly skilled work of making the pipes watching a skilled metal hand soldering say the back joint of a 4 or 8' long pipe is astonishing if you have never seen it before. Some metal pipes can be as long as 32 feet long ( 10 metres) and that is just the speaking length. Up to tiny pipes only of 3/8" long (10 mm) This is why I think that church organ building is one of the most comprehensive training anyone could have if they work with their hands. This has stood me in good stead all my working life( and I only spent about 12 years in the organ trade the after other jobs became a Craft Design and Technology teacher in my thirties. Before I went in another direction in the automotive trade. My training as an organ builder taught me to do many things but most of all I thought me to THINK. As for that I thank the men who gave me their wisdom free of charge every day of my apprenticeship.
I’m glad there’s more to come. You don’t know this yet but inside information: I’ve removed both gearboxes and the motor. I am trying to commit to not scraping this machine so we can try to get it done somewhat reasonably quick, but we’re definitely digging into it.
That's really nice. Wish I had the knowledge/tools dto do something like this... One day! :) I'm curious if there's a reason to chose the type of steel (1018 vs. 4140 vs. 12L14). Would it matter? I'm still learning this new hobby. Thanks for sharing.
It didn’t really matter. 4140 would’ve probably been better but in the diameter that I needed the material the 1018 was significantly cheaper. And since the old part with bronze so anything of steel is significantly better.
The hand wheel is not a loss...heat it good 'n hot, at the press and put steel blocks at the edge, followed by a 16" steel plate atop it and press it. Might get it 95% back to a flat plane. Then load it into a lathe, flatten the weld and clean up the surface.
I am so glade someone is repairing these wonderful old manual machines , they built the world we had , when your dad and me were young the USA built the very best machine tools ! Just ignore the key board wan---- um warriors.
Thank you, but I get comments on both sides. For a long time there, I was thinking we needed to do less talking but I’ve been getting an overwhelmingly positive amount of comments indicating that they want more talking so I never know what to do.
great job mate . I worked as a maintenance machinist years ago but there was no pressure because mistakes can easily be made. we got no visits to the workshop by production supervisors
Love your work. Just a comment about the 6 jaw chuck, they are great for thin wall material. For thick material a 3 jaw chuck ensures that it is being held securely at 3 known equally spaced points. The 6 jaw will also be holding it but you can't be sure that it is holding symmetrically. Particularly for the large stick out you began with, a 3 jaw provides more reliable holding - though it DOESN'T look like it. FYI back in the day when Caterpillar supplied thread lock etc - for light thread lock it called up its gasket maker as its properties is basically the same as light thread lock so it simplified what was needed. So RTV is something along the same lines.
Yeah the 6 jaw doesn’t do well on uneven surfaces but once machined it does do well for gripping but I usually check it with an indicator. I use it a lot for second op stuff because if I have to take it out and reinstall I like the lower run out of my 6 jaw compared to my 3 jaw.
My plan would be to silver solder a new thin, oversized piece out of steel to the existing gear and machine it to spec after the soldering. But many ways to Rome and, most important, what are you comfortable or experienced enough to do. Your solution is a good solution and it can be replaced more easily if necessary. Thank you for sharing this adventure with us again. I hope everything you have planned works out like you imagined. Best! Job
Take this as you will, coming from a complete amateur who's rescued a few machines from scrap, but... I like your thinking here. The original parts may have been the most cost effective, not the best way of achieving the desired result!
Treee Panning is going overboard on the emphasis. There is only one "e" and the "p" doesn't need a boost either. Aim more for the "ep" sound in Pepsi, or even the "up" sound in uphill.
21:05 What a PERFECT use of this technology!! .. A full size exact replica of the part you will make. I do a fair amount of automotive fabricating, and we are al famous for using "Cardboard Aided Design" .. Sometimes having a 3D printed part, would be advantageous.
You could 3D print the handwheel, then send it off to a foundry for casting. It might be cheaper than you think. I do this a fair bit and it's about $20 / kg.
Were you able to obtain any detail drawings for those parts unavailable? Most of the old line machine tool mfrs wouldn’t provide them, even at a price.
Planed or accidentall? Either way nice to have a weak point to save major damage. Knowing that the bolts might shear, I might have been tempted to put an extra set of holes while it was being made, "prepare for the worst and hope for best"
Yes, you’re right. I explained that in a comment above. However, things are different these days and we have different ways of doing things which can be taken into account. Things they couldn’t do back then. An example they may have made that spot weaker to avoid breakage of the sun gear. I ended up printing that part out of nylon in an upcoming video and made the part serviceable. I’d much rather have that gear (bronze) durable and damage a 3-D printed part then vice versa. I’m not saying that specifically what they’re thinking, but my point is their engineering was based on a general rule but with the way things are done nowadays different priorities are in Play.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair the important point is you are fixing the machine, and as the owner/operator you will care for it more than some "few bucks an hour" labourer would have done.
Not yet no time/funds for hobbies trying to put everything into my business maybe one day… but prolly not they are to overpriced…. They are cool but not that cool. Misewell get a new one those 964s can run 1/5-1/2 the cost of new ones.
Another thing about the seal. You will never run this machine the amount of hours it was designed for and possibly run in its former life. This machine was built to run thousands of hours, you could never use it that much. Great repair and looks like a good plan for the other items that need attention. Joe
print in 3D with an allowance and then return it in aluminum, the same with parts, send the broken one to receive a casting and make a new part from it;
Just loctite, no screws. Screws will shear off again, with loctite, 180°C in stove and it will fall apart, with no broken screws in the bronze gear ;-)
I have said in the past that I like your approach to things. You could have just added to the jankiness but chose to go beyond a simple repair and improve the parts. I think you lean toward over engineering things and as you have no one to answer to for cost over runs who cares! Cheers
you said the gear teeth on the bronze part are good? they look pretty damn clearly worn from just the video view. Do my eyes deceive me? Wow if you look careful while your pressing the parts together you can see the bronze slightly deforming on the far right side.
With all due respect, I appreciate your skill and acumen but, the dialogue. The long wordy explanations as if your audience has never been in a machine shop is frustrating. As the saying goes, a little less talk, a little more action.A person can only see so many tons of chips fly and holes get tapped before they think about changing the channel. Let's see that wonderful machine getting the TLC you are obviously capable of getting restored instead of hi skool machine shop explanations.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Agreed. The problem, as found in education and the media, is people like every little detail spelled out for them. For us engineers born a comfortable distance from the apocalypse, some of us would prefer you dumping all those parts on the table, giving a close up of what's wrong, and let us figure out how we would fix it as we watch what you have worked out as the best repair. No words required. Obviously we have a clutch engagement, a sun and planetary, some manufacturer foo foo, and a whole lot of half arse fixes instead of figuring out the stress points and they way it should have been done. (Enter 4140 and 4130 and some tempering of course.) Speaking for myself, I'd be more engaged, more focused, and have a good chance on picking up on a few tricks of the trade.
You may be the victim of a bad design (Not foolproof) . Either something has to limit the amount of force to the feed or else every component must be capable of transferring infinite energy without falling. Something has to stall, slip, shear etc. The cool thing about being a machine repair machinest is getting to reverse engineer problems out of designs.
Yeah, you’re definitely correct. I thought about this several times before moving forward and came to the conclusion that those parts breaking probably saved more expensive parts. Making it stronger doesn’t really help that situation. It makes it worse. However, I’m hoping that I can be a little bit more conscious when operating this machine than the next guy and I’m hoping that the added strength will make the machine more durable, except in the event of a catastrophic crash, which I’ll try to avoid.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair You are spot on and with your 3D skills you can decide where and how to prevent future damage to the drivetrain. If you can't stall the drive maybe install a shear pin that's not too hard to replace or an adjustable torque limiting clutch can help. Fred
Never been much of a fan of the "we" channels. I have no dog in the hunt. I neither earn, nor loose anything. The false tribalism that is so very common in the USA.
You know there was a reason they used yellow metal for that part Kyle. More than likely to protect the gear box parts because a failure there could mean multiple destroyed gears instead of just one. I'm sure you have considered the engineering decisions that the designers chose in your decision process, but I thought I would just mention it. Very cool your taking on the challenge Kyle. Your braver than me for sure! Good luck brother, thanks for taking us with you on your journey to fix this awesome machine 👍🏻!!
Maybe use bronze screws to hold in the repair piece and serve as the new failure point?
Yeah, you’re right. I responded to that and an above comment. I will say, though overtime they have adapted the design, meaning they made the design more durable because it was becoming a reoccurring issue. I definitely want to give credit to the engineers what they did was amazing but that doesn’t also mean that there are not better ways to do it.
As mentioned early in the video, when that weaker gear was failing, the hardened fastening hardware would fall into the gearbox below and destroy a lot more.
I reckon the worm wheel is bronze because they always are... And the rest of the assembly is bronze for easier manufacture.
John said: I think it'll be okay. You could be right, but I would have done what he did even if another metal is better because I don't know any better. After reading your comment, I would have done it your way.
This is going to be a fun series to watch Kyle. A lot of repairing, some modification improvements and good old fashion great work. Love this stuff. Keep it up and thanks for sharing.
I really appreciate it lots more more stuff to come.
John said: I am more than impressed. Beautiful job.
Thank you I appreciate kind of words.
Really enjoying this rebuild!
Me too
Nice machining. You could put steel to freezer before press fit, as steel may grind bronze, but this will do fine as well
Yeah, I’ve done that before. It just depends on timing. It takes some time for steel to shrink in the freezer.
This is a nice repair Kyle.
I totally agree with your idea of fixing this.
Since you know, or Lucas knows what causes the part to break and how it happens.
I know you will be cautious running the machine so this does not happen.
Most likely the machines operator's were part of the cause of failure.
We have all seen abuses in the shop.
The Lucas Engineer's could have come up with a upgrade like you did.
This is going to be a nice machine when you are done rebuilding it.
And another asset to your shop for many years.
Have a great weekend. 👍 🇺🇸👍
Thanks, Ed. I appreciate it. Happy to keep this Lucas alive.
Nice instructional video, interesting and I look forward the next.
👍👍
Thank you
I really like looking at that worm gear. Mathematically machined precision art. Thanks sharing!!
You bet!
When I was apprenticing for my plumber's cert I had a mentor that showed me a few things about machining. Randy Roach who stood of all of 5'4" and he worked on the Liberty Ships during War2 and he was an incredible source of knowledge on welding and machining. He was a hero to me. I want to thank you sir for letting me take this journey with you as I am retired now but I am still eager to learn. Once again Kyle I thank you.
Of course glad you enjoy it
I really enjoyed your comment. For those of us that learned a trade I would hope that most have a story like yours where we had some sort of mentor in our lives. If there is anything that is missing in the world today, it's that there are not enough young people that want to be mentored. There are some, but too many have the wrong attitude from the start, and they act like things should be given to them and too many lack basic respect and manners, but they want to be treated that way without giving it. The people in this world have changed a lot.
Back in the day when young guys like me got a job in the trades were so thankful for someone who would share knowledge with us. Having an older guy who has been in the trades for decades, and to have them take you and put you under their wing, was a true privilege. They taught me knowledge and experience are tools that nobody can ever take from you.
For quite a few years I would volunteer to get coffee in the morning, pick up lunch, be the third hand or helper for anyone of those experienced guys. I would be the guy who cleaned up, put away the tools and tried to make it better for those willing to teach me. I knew I was the new 'kid' and that I didn't have real world experience. Those guys knew I was serious, that I paid attention to what they told me and showed me, and that I would give it my best. I would always do extra for any of them because they were teaching me, and I was getting experience and knowledge that was not in books.
I knew that I was doing well because I went from the new kid to the guy that could do the more complex things and they would compliment me on not just the finished work but on a personal level. What I learned in my journey is that if you really want to know something and you care about your work, that there are people willing to go above and beyond to teach you. When they are good at what they do, they are proud to show someone else who wants to learn how to do it.
When you spend a few days around seasoned professionals, you realize how ignorant you truly are and just how much knowledge they have that only comes with experience. I am so thankful for all those that helped me on my journey to make me who I am.
@@gags730 Well said sir and I fully agree. Thank you.
@@gags730well said sir! I went into my trade in 1970 Church organ building. Which has multiple disciplines within it. Heavy carpentry, ( think of canal lock gates) fine cabinet making ( after all the organ is the church's largest piece of furniture) electronics and associated switchgear, large cabling systems. ( there may be as many as 10,000 different wires going from the console or main distribution box to various parts of a large cathedral organ over many tens of metres distance or even different parts of the church. Pneumatics, leather working ( these two combine in a number of different ways) to produce reservoirs for the wind and to regulate its pressure. Pneumatics which combined with the electrical system can often control the wind to the pipework. And that's before any of the metal side of pipe making is considered( this is normally a separate trade within organ building and includes casting sheets of the various types of Lead/Tin / Antimony alloys required for the tonal outcome desired in the organ. And of course the highly skilled work of making the pipes watching a skilled metal hand soldering say the back joint of a 4 or 8' long pipe is astonishing if you have never seen it before. Some metal pipes can be as long as 32 feet long ( 10 metres) and that is just the speaking length. Up to tiny pipes only of 3/8" long (10 mm) This is why I think that church organ building is one of the most comprehensive training anyone could have if they work with their hands. This has stood me in good stead all my working life( and I only spent about 12 years in the organ trade the after other jobs became a Craft Design and Technology teacher in my thirties. Before I went in another direction in the automotive trade. My training as an organ builder taught me to do many things but most of all I thought me to THINK. As for that I thank the men who gave me their wisdom free of charge every day of my apprenticeship.
Hi! I noticed when roughing the steel slug, you switched from a C shape insert to a T shape (Triangle). Was there a specific reason for this?
Thanks!
I don’t remember honestly probably clearance.
love the complexity of the part and machining...lots of techniques im learning...keep up the videos
More to come
Awesome video! I’m super excited to see what’s next!
More to come!
Great video, fascinating project! Can't wait to see more. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent job, Kyle, well done. Looking forward for the rest of the series, to see you breathe new life in the Lucas.
Lots more to come
I am enjoying this series immensely
I’m glad there’s more to come. You don’t know this yet but inside information: I’ve removed both gearboxes and the motor. I am trying to commit to not scraping this machine so we can try to get it done somewhat reasonably quick, but we’re definitely digging into it.
you can make your own seal with proper sizr maerial and super glue
Yeah I figured it was old be possible
The LUCAS PROJECT part 1 is a wonderful video. Great work.
Glad you liked it!
Beautiful machining video. A pleasure to watch.
Appreciate it
Nice repair Kyle. Well Done.
Thanks Randy
Nice project, Kyle! For what it’s worth, I would have taken the same approach with the steel hub.
Thanks! Good to know I’m not completely crazy.
excellent video,looking forward to the series!
More to come!
That's really nice. Wish I had the knowledge/tools dto do something like this... One day! :)
I'm curious if there's a reason to chose the type of steel (1018 vs. 4140 vs. 12L14). Would it matter? I'm still learning this new hobby. Thanks for sharing.
It didn’t really matter. 4140 would’ve probably been better but in the diameter that I needed the material the 1018 was significantly cheaper. And since the old part with bronze so anything of steel is significantly better.
RTV silicon. Abbreviation "RTV" is not the product itself, it's a descriptor of it.
👍
Another well filmed informational vid.
Nice work !
Thanks
Awesome work! You've been popping up all over TH-cam bro, good to see you out and about!
Thanks trying to hustle as best I can
The hand wheel is not a loss...heat it good 'n hot, at the press and put steel blocks at the edge, followed by a 16" steel plate atop it and press it. Might get it 95% back to a flat plane. Then load it into a lathe, flatten the weld and clean up the surface.
I’ve already made a new handle. You’ll be seeing it in the future video.
I am so glade someone is repairing these wonderful old manual machines , they built the world we had , when your dad and me were young the USA built the very best machine tools !
Just ignore the key board wan---- um warriors.
Yeah, I was a very different time back then. Good to keep the old iron rolling.
I got a tip for you Kyle, less talking equals more subscribers assuming that is your intention to increase your viewership
Thank you, but I get comments on both sides. For a long time there, I was thinking we needed to do less talking but I’ve been getting an overwhelmingly positive amount of comments indicating that they want more talking so I never know what to do.
great job mate . I worked as a maintenance machinist years ago but there was no pressure because mistakes can easily be made. we got no visits to the workshop by production supervisors
Sounds like it was a good place to work
Great work! Excellent, you saved alot money keep up the good work Bravo@
Thanks, will do!
Love your work. Just a comment about the 6 jaw chuck, they are great for thin wall material.
For thick material a 3 jaw chuck ensures that it is being held securely at 3 known equally spaced points.
The 6 jaw will also be holding it but you can't be sure that it is holding symmetrically.
Particularly for the large stick out you began with, a 3 jaw provides more reliable holding - though it DOESN'T look like it.
FYI back in the day when Caterpillar supplied thread lock etc - for light thread lock it called up its gasket maker as its properties is basically the same as light thread lock so it simplified what was needed. So RTV is something along the same lines.
Yeah the 6 jaw doesn’t do well on uneven surfaces but once machined it does do well for gripping but I usually check it with an indicator. I use it a lot for second op stuff because if I have to take it out and reinstall I like the lower run out of my 6 jaw compared to my 3 jaw.
My plan would be to silver solder a new thin, oversized piece out of steel to the existing gear and machine it to spec after the soldering. But many ways to Rome and, most important, what are you comfortable or experienced enough to do. Your solution is a good solution and it can be replaced more easily if necessary. Thank you for sharing this adventure with us again. I hope everything you have planned works out like you imagined. Best! Job
That’s a good idea. Thanks for watching
Great Repair!
Thanks!
Great work and problem solving, Curtis and Oliver (Snowball Eng) will be proud of you.
Wow, thanks!
That mill will be better than Lucas ever made it. Nice work, as always, Kyle!
I hope so! Thanks Greg
that machine looks gorgeous !!!
It is!
Well done, never give up
Appreciate it
I hope you have manuals from Lucas. Did Lucas still excists today or it's gone ?
I have some info but most engineering is done regardless of the info. The info I got is slightly helpful at best.
Love seeing the HSS bring the sauce !
Yeah it comes out occasionally
There was noway you was gonna put that part on your beautiful repair great job Kyle 👍👍👍
Yeah your right
Take this as you will, coming from a complete amateur who's rescued a few machines from scrap, but... I like your thinking here. The original parts may have been the most cost effective, not the best way of achieving the desired result!
Thanks 👍
..btw i loved the 3d modeling...such a valuable step to make sure get it right when going back is very painful
Thanks it work well.
Treee Panning is going overboard on the emphasis. There is only one "e" and the "p" doesn't need a boost either. Aim more for the "ep" sound in Pepsi, or even the "up" sound in uphill.
👍
Try Windyhill Foundry if you ever need anything casted.
Thx he does steel and aluminum no bronze or stainless.
@VanoverMachineAndRepair
Oh ok, I wasn't aware.
Just superb machining
Appreciate it
Another great video, very detailed, thank you! Maybe one day youll find an understudy to pass along this knowledge and keep this trade alive.
I truly hope so. I know that I am doing a lot myself, but I know that’s not sustainable long-term and I’m happy to pass on any knowledge that I have.
Nice job!!!
Thanks!
Another great video thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
The repair methods are equally disruptive. Question are the shoe guards you use Stabil Grippers Shoe Covers?
No they are nit
No notification today 😮😮 that sucks . But another great video
Weird
Using a 3D model to check if a part will fit and work is a really good idea.
It is indeed
Little dab-o-silicone ? Instead of the seal ?
Maybe
21:05 What a PERFECT use of this technology!! .. A full size exact replica of the part you will make.
I do a fair amount of automotive fabricating, and we are al famous for using "Cardboard Aided Design" .. Sometimes having a 3D printed part, would be advantageous.
3d printing really useful, especially when you’re making things for prototyping.
You could 3D print the handwheel, then send it off to a foundry for casting. It might be cheaper than you think. I do this a fair bit and it's about $20 / kg.
Yeah true. I wanted the challenge of 3d printing but yeah that will be the plan for future parts
Making a failure Point stronger by replacing bronze with steel?
So what part is gonna break next time ?
Nothing because I am not going to power feed the spindle into the workpiece
Were you able to obtain any detail drawings for those parts unavailable? Most of the old line machine tool mfrs wouldn’t provide them, even at a price.
Definitely not. I have hand drawings from Lucas with no dimensions and only a partial view so it was no help really.
Which part was so expensive?
The last two videos were pretty expensive parts but one more coming up will be more expensive than those two
John said: I really enjoyed both of them.
@@CarnivoreCurin thanks
John said: you are doing it right, you don't need any of my advice, the way you are doing it is the way I would do it.
I appreciate that
Looks like quite the air gap, putting your yellow hoist in it's perch..... Little air cushion going on, or, yer just dropping super slow LOL
It’s a cushion fit. It doesn’t need to be but I made it tight fit lol
Why not part off that damaged section?
Interrupted multi material parting definitely asking to smoke some 100$ parting blades
Does the feed have it's own drive motor?
No it does not everything runs on 1 motor
Maybe aluminum-bronze would be a better substitute than a 660. Perhaps even a 80-10-10 would a good choice if you decide not to go with cr steel.
Yeah perhaps
Parabéns ótimo trabalho
Thank you
Great video. You must work too hard. I'm sending you donuts and milk shakes😂
Yes please! Always working it seems
I'm wondering if seeing all these breakages if its not a planned weak spot to save the machine from a more extensive crash repair?
Planed or accidentall? Either way nice to have a weak point to save major damage. Knowing that the bolts might shear, I might have been tempted to put an extra set of holes while it was being made, "prepare for the worst and hope for best"
Yes, you’re right. I explained that in a comment above. However, things are different these days and we have different ways of doing things which can be taken into account. Things they couldn’t do back then. An example they may have made that spot weaker to avoid breakage of the sun gear. I ended up printing that part out of nylon in an upcoming video and made the part serviceable. I’d much rather have that gear (bronze) durable and damage a 3-D printed part then vice versa. I’m not saying that specifically what they’re thinking, but my point is their engineering was based on a general rule but with the way things are done nowadays different priorities are in Play.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair the important point is you are fixing the machine, and as the owner/operator you will care for it more than some "few bucks an hour" labourer would have done.
@@chrisstephens6673 exactly
Although this was an interesting repair, I'm compelled to admit the 964 turbo poster stole the show. Own one yet, or still saving?
Not yet no time/funds for hobbies trying to put everything into my business maybe one day… but prolly not they are to overpriced…. They are cool but not that cool. Misewell get a new one those 964s can run 1/5-1/2 the cost of new ones.
Was that you in the end of the Estate of Russell Garens video? If so you are lucky as hell to have seen that treasure chest.
Yes it was
Another thing about the seal. You will never run this machine the amount of hours it was designed for and possibly run in its former life. This machine was built to run thousands of hours, you could never use it that much.
Great repair and looks like a good plan for the other items that need attention.
Joe
Great point!
print in 3D with an allowance and then return it in aluminum, the same with parts, send the broken one to receive a casting and make a new part from it;
If it’s something that can be cast
True
well done
Thank you
weld up amd machine
Indeed
Beautifull
Thank you
Perfection (that is what you call over-kill)
Indeed
The difference in strength between bronze and steel might be less than you think, Some of the bronzes are very strong indeed.
Yeah probably true
1:44 machine dropped during loading/unloading while being transported to another location.
Maybe
In 1968 all that was made for 37 dollars and forty-two cents when the lucas boring mill was released.
Probably
22:50 I have many times designed a part in aluminum of brass, and ended up using steel just based on cost!
Makes sense
"OD's in the inside" = ID's37:45 what's this process accomplishing?
37:45 is chamfering I am not following you.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair sorry dude.....37:37
@@semperfidelis8386 I am using a chamfer end mill but I realized the regular chamfer worked better so I switched to that. So essentially nothing lol
Treepanned
Yep
For the hand wheel repair, I think it would be cool to make a hub and use an aftermarket steering wheel.
Yeah good call but the new one is already made.
Why don't you have a notification bell?
It should be there you have to turn the bell on from your end. They may have changed the location.
It's kind of funny that you said "silicone" bronze when you meant silicon and the TSB said "silicon" RTV when they meant silicone.
Yeah funny lol
so cold for fix
Thanks
Why do I always feel the need to email you a sack full of double cheese burgers?
lol. I’m not sure I can’t answer that question
I don't know why you wouldn't have just made a square cut o-ring . You can buy the material in expensively and glued it to whatever size you needed?
Yeah true
Just loctite, no screws.
Screws will shear off again, with loctite, 180°C in stove and it will fall apart, with no broken screws in the bronze gear ;-)
Yeah could work too
dude...get one of the local kids to come in ans sweep up for you.....wtf
One day maybe
I have said in the past that I like your approach to things. You could have just added to the jankiness but chose to go beyond a simple repair and improve the parts. I think you lean toward over engineering things and as you have no one to answer to for cost over runs who cares! Cheers
Thanks I appreciate it
No way that's $7,600. I call BS.
Send your email I’ll send you a copy of the quote
" Fix them or repair them" Why are you saying the same thing twice in the same sentence?
?
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair 1:15 and 1:25
you said the gear teeth on the bronze part are good? they look pretty damn clearly worn from just the video view. Do my eyes deceive me? Wow if you look careful while your pressing the parts together you can see the bronze slightly deforming on the far right side.
Yes they are deceiving you. The gear is 100% fine.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Either way you are doing a damn fine job young man. you move like a seasoned machinist.
GREAT WORK.
Thank you
With all due respect, I appreciate your skill and acumen but, the dialogue. The long wordy explanations as if your audience has never been in a machine shop is frustrating. As the saying goes, a little less talk, a little more action.A person can only see so many tons of chips fly and holes get tapped before they think about changing the channel. Let's see that wonderful machine getting the TLC you are obviously capable of getting restored instead of hi skool machine shop explanations.
Some like it some don’t. To each their own
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Agreed. The problem, as found in education and the media, is people like every little detail spelled out for them.
For us engineers born a comfortable distance from the apocalypse, some of us would prefer you dumping all those parts on the table, giving a close up of what's wrong, and let us figure out how we would fix it as we watch what you have worked out as the best repair. No words required. Obviously we have a clutch engagement, a sun and planetary, some manufacturer foo foo, and a whole lot of half arse fixes instead of figuring out the stress points and they way it should have been done. (Enter 4140 and 4130 and some tempering of course.)
Speaking for myself, I'd be more engaged, more focused, and have a good chance on picking up on a few tricks of the trade.
You may be the victim of a bad design (Not foolproof) .
Either something has to limit the amount of force to the feed or else every component must be capable of transferring infinite energy without falling.
Something has to stall, slip, shear etc.
The cool thing about being a machine repair machinest is getting to reverse engineer problems out of designs.
Yeah, you’re definitely correct. I thought about this several times before moving forward and came to the conclusion that those parts breaking probably saved more expensive parts. Making it stronger doesn’t really help that situation. It makes it worse. However, I’m hoping that I can be a little bit more conscious when operating this machine than the next guy and I’m hoping that the added strength will make the machine more durable, except in the event of a catastrophic crash, which I’ll try to avoid.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair You are spot on and with your 3D skills you can decide where and how to prevent future damage to the drivetrain.
If you can't stall the drive maybe install a shear pin that's not too hard to replace or an adjustable torque limiting clutch can help.
Fred
@@fredhoyt6900 yeah very true
hey butcher self taught i bet you keep saying doesn't matter when yu make a mistake
Yeah
Never been much of a fan of the "we" channels. I have no dog in the hunt. I neither earn, nor loose anything. The false tribalism that is so very common in the USA.
👍
Try a little less talking a lot more machine work.
Yes, I’m aware of this. Half of you guys love talking half of you guys don’t no way to please all you guys.
No coolant on the lathe? Just raw doggin it 😂
Coolant isn't necessary cutting bronze.
Nothing wrong with raw doggin