I look at the Continental wear indicators. Always carry a boot cut from a retired tire wrapped around the pump and secured with duct tape. Don't leave home without it! Co2 good for 1 shot only!
I have a good look before each ride. Look suspicious pick another bike. Cut or worn spot in the trash. I use the widest tire that fits. Better mileage .
You people at the GCN covered everything about cycling! I'm a newbie started 9 months ago and every time I search the internet about bikes, you guys are always there! Thank you so much!
I used to have Vittoria tyres on my bike I have two puncture per week I've got fed up about so I swap to the continental GP 5000 I never have a puncture the best tire so far...
Great video and interesting poll question, but I’ve been burned too many times bragging about how long it’s been since my last puncture only to be caught by the side of the road with a blown tire. I’ll spare myself the jinx this time around.
I'm amazed by the puncture protection provided by some tires these days. I've put about 6 or 7000 kms on a set of Michelin Pro4 Endurance, including a lot of winter riding, and I've had only 1 puncture during that time.
I used to get flats but, since 2016 I started rolling on tubeless tyres, zero flats. I carry an inner tube along with a few tools CO2 carts and the Sram caliper shipping wedges in case I have to fix a flat.
I change my tires when I notice that there have occurred some deeper cuts in the rubber from glass or sharp gravel. With every cut the chances increase that a glass or gravel particel will go into the already existing cut and work its way through the tire during one single ride. If there are no deeper cuts I change the tire when I can see the carcass through the worn rubber in one single place. I have punctures very rarely, one in about 10.000 km or one every two years. I use Continental 4 Season tires only on my race bike and ride them with high pressure (8 to 9 bar), even it is not so comfortable. (My weight is 73 kg). When I used to ride GP5000 or Schwalbe One I had a puncture every month or more often.
I puf a 2nd hand wheel on the front with a perished coloured tyre. My friend told me the coloured part had gone hard and it was obviously warped. I didnt change it. Going down a hill into a turn I slid out since the dry coloured part hit the road. Skinned elbow through my clothing and bruised thigh taught me a lesson.
One way to reduce punctures is to not overinflate your tires. The number on the sidewall is the maximum pressure, not the recommended pressure. What pressure should you run at? If you are using high quality supple tires, it turns out to be just enough to make the handling good. Higher pressures can make you slower (counterintuitive perhaps, but well established).
Top sign that your tyre is worn out: Explosive puncture, fellow club riders look at tyre and point to tyre delamination and inner tube poking through. "There's your problem!". Yes this did happen to me, after years of cycling experience. Easy to forget how many miles a tyre has done, should really get round to creating a maintenance/wear spreadsheet.
If you do ride older tyres, try maintaining them with a mini-screwdriver! Yes I just said that.. use it to pick out the tiny pebbles that collect in the tyre surface, these stack up and ignored can cause a puncture while riding! 👍
Same tyre 20k miles but over 10 years (before I retired) looked fine but the grip wasn't there any more. Resulted in me face planting on a roundabout. Only 1 small sidewall puncture in its life!
As far as some of my tyre replacements go: I've had a rear that had a flat tread so I replaced it before my most recent century; two rears that got chopped open (one by glass, the other by a chunk of metal that took the inner tube with it); a front that had a compromised bead structure and exploded when it was parked up in the sun; a set on a mountain bike that got a sharp stone lodged in the rubber and gave me two punctures in quick succession; and the most recent casualty was a front GP4000 that had done 12,000km and the tread started coming unstuck from the carcass.
the trad pattern isn'tt a good indicator of a worn out tire. Many have superficial tread just for looks. I used to run some schwalbe touring tires that had a note on the instructions saying to replace them when you wear throught to the different coloured rubber in the puncture protection bands.
And small cuts are permanently repairable by putting an inner-tube-patch on the inside of the tire. Even bigger cuts can sometimes be repaired with needle, thread and a patch. Repair, reuse, recycle.
@@PoxyBear never tried gorilla tape. If you use an inner tube and the hole is just a few millimeters a few layers should work. It's just tricky to keep it in place.
In 36 years of road cycling and 30 years of mechanising I have never seen the gcn tube hernia. But if you had a cut like that in any tyre deflation would be instant. A cut I. The side wall damage only happens when you ride the tyre to flat which is one reason that the tyre noodle might not get you home.
I'm using Continental Gatorskin tires. Maybe they are slower, than other tires, but I didn't have even single puncture after 12 000 km of riding sometimes very bad roads. I just rotated them, to keep them wearing out evenly.
Rotated the back to front cause it's a Gator Hardcase and even tougher. Gatorskin goes in the back. You're not really supposed to put a worn tire in the front! Nothing slower than a puncture, and no team car will ever follow me!
One thing I had recently and never heard about before is that my Michelin MTB tyres were too loose after 10+ years of "use". So I had four flat tyres in a row with always the same strange finding that the valve was torn off. I boiled it down to the tyre spinning around the rim and ripping the inner tyre off. Replacing the outer tyres solved the problem, so take note.
One of my fairly newish tyres has some small cracks only in the wall on the right side. None on the left side. Getting a bit worried about the state of it if more cracks appear. Fortunately it was not a super expensive tyre.
Hi, i've been using gp5000s and keep getting punctures in the rear, the tyre has flattened but the wear indicator is quite clearly visible and i've only done about 1000 miles. So should I continue using perhaps try a different inner tube or get a new tyre? Thanks in advance.
I had a nail go through my rear tire, a thick, “puncture-proof” winter tire. First ever puncture, and I decided to swap to my summer tires (it was getting warmer) rather than just replace the tube. The very next ride on the new tires, someone left a ripped up aluminum can on the lakefront trail and it gashed the new front tire wide open. Instant blowout.
Do you switch front to rear when the rear tyre has reached half way on its wear point? Or wait til it's almost worn out and just replace it but keep the front as is? I used to switch but don't now as the rears wear out so fast!
Help please !! I have a Carrera Vengeance, I'm doing a lot of commuting on the road, so just wondering what tyre you would recommend for me? Original tyre details Kenda 52-584 (650 x 52B) (27.5 x 2.10) Kind regards Lionel Kind regards Lionel
Do not put a worn tire on the front as a sudden front tire failure will probably result in a dangerous crash. Sheldon Brown says "Put the good one on the front" www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html
I know I will hear lots of boos and hisses about this...….I use tuffy tire liners and usually make it without any punctures throughout the year. I ride for the love of it and get in about 3000 to 4500 km per year. I check my tires before every ride and give them a quick wipe down. Takes a minute but saves me 10 minutes on the side of the road fixing a puncture. The whole point is to enjoy the ride and having punctures really messes with that. Cheers!
What about the 'feeling ' that you have a heavy stroke or something like slippery some times but your eye can caught any diferent than the usual. And what about the small cuts not bigger than 5 mm ?
I bought some cheap red wall tyres for me bicycle from ebay last year. They look cool but have developed deep cracks in them around the edges from being inflated... Should i replace them? As the still feel okay
Wait, but if you already have a set of £80+ tyres and you total one you're not really buying an upgrade so there is cause to worry. I trashed a Vitoria corsa speed 3 days after buying it. I didn't consider the replacement an upgrade.
"Big cuts" My pair of Panaracer Gravelkings have a total of 4 big cuts in between the 2 of them(thanks to my due inexperience of running my tyre pressure way too low 2 years back,as a beginner). I simply patched them up with around 2 layers of duct tape,and to this day,I'm still running that same pair of tyres.
The rotation direction only has an impact on the grooves pattern. On car tires this pattern is designed to chase the water to the sides, but that's a non-issue for road bikes with a contact patch that is only a few millimeters wide. So short answer, the rotation direction does not matter, except for cosmetic reasons.
What'll you do if you're riding fixed gear and turn the wheel around to ride the tailwind! Does it void a warranty? Maybe create 0.25 watts extra aero drag. Even out the wear caused by the crown of the road? Did anyone hear that tree fall?
On tire age... why do so many store old tubulars in a dark place and use them years later? I know some Cross riders have brought out tubs that are years out of production to win on them.
My biggest issue is getting a new tyre mounted without damaging the inner tube. I literally always damage at least one because there are tyres that are incredibly difficult. Continental GP4000s already was a real pain in the arse but Schwalbe Pro One is a sheer nightmare. Two tubes died in the attempt, one was damaged but fixable. This can't be normal, can it? Am I just being a blithering idiot or do other fellow riders face the same problem?
Some tires just fit very tightly. Warm them in the oven or sunlight before trying to install them. The heat will make them more elastic and will mount a bit easier.
@@robertbarriger2596 I'll try that next time. I think I found a technique to make it easier. When I deflate the tube completely before putting on the last bit of the tyre, it works much better...
A quastion regarding the "expanding" of tires: Is it possible the tires slightly expand over time --> meaning: is it possible that my 28mm tires become broader over time (moths/years)? I am trying to fit larger tires but I am worried that even if the might fit in the beginning, they might scrape my frame after some time (2-3years)
It depends in part on how deep they are. If they reach all the way in to the carcass, the tire may be vulnerable. Also, if you have several such cuts right next to each other, the tire may tear altogether at that spot.
GCN Tech, There it is again: the rubber spikes on the tire. Repeatedly, how many grams do those rubber spikes on the tire weigh? You go on about weight and aerodynamics. I enjoy your channel yet wonder why you do not address weight issues with such glorifying the modern, extra-light frame. I will keep asking. Other viewers have seen this comment and I will keep repeating it. Thanks.
Hey Ronin, i have already added your question in for an upcoming Tech Clinic, so keep an eye out for that 😎. The weight on those bits are very small though 👍
@@GCNalex, Yes, I realize the small amount, but the turbulence created(aerodynamics), over distance, is at issue. Could you calculate the drag over the course of Le Tour de France, for example? Small things add up. Thanks.
Note how all the failures involved tubes and not tubeless did you not fancy a pink shower. All the failures that are illustrated here would have been harder to repair roadside tubeless. If you slash a tubeless you might be able to plug it or you’ll have to patch it and pop a tube in messier and trickier to get the patch to stay in place in a tubeless tyre.
They certainly cost more per mile than almost any passenger car tire. They can last 40,000 miles easily, whereas a bike tire may go 3000 miles with a light rider. Half the tires doesn't make up the difference.
I’m enjoying the bike so far th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
For a crash course in tyre wear, try riding fixed gear for a couple of months. You'll be an expert in no time and you won't even have to worry about dated and cracked tyres. They certainly won't last all that long. Aahh the tyre and money consuming fun of skidding...
@@pureroadie That they are indeed. That's why I keep a front brake on my track bike when on the road. I get to enjoy skidding to my heart's content and also keep smiling with all my teeth intact.
Best bang for your buck upgrade 😂 but they are sponsored by Pirelli and a set of pzeros is going to easily set you back by 100 bucks. They are the best tires on the market no question about that, I've been using pzeros and centurato for years now but they sure are expensive and not economical by any stretch of the term
I spent 40 € on a 35 mm Cinturato and I've been riding it for 16.000 km on my rear wheel without a single puncture. The front tire will probably last 20.000 km. Unless you're racing, skip the P Zeros and go for the Cinturato.
I got 3 bikes, one has the centurato 28mm, then there is my race bike and i got the pzero 25mm on that one, the last one is a vintage road bike with cst 23mm tires. Pzero are worth it if you train fast or if you're racing as you said, the centurato are the durable ones but I've also tried the pzero 4s tire this winter on my race bike and they are also really reliable tires. The only thing is that Pirelli are not cheap, you're always between 100-90€ for a pair. My cst 23mm are like 15€ each 😅 you can also find Michelin tires at 20€ a pair. So I wouldn't call Pirelli tires cheap, not at all, they are expensive as hell but at least you are paying for a really good tire
What about this kind of wear: drive.google.com/file/d/1iQMvPWcPMOMfa0dpPEfxirmD-B2-L9OU/view It's Schwalbe cx pro tire. I think it wore this way because I rode on gravel a lot. And it was front tire. It seems that these tires wear that way very quick. I wonder how safe it is to ride with a tire that has still enough thread, but carcass is visible between thread knobs. Will it be strong enough when I break hard from high speed..? 60Km/h maybe. I like these tires because they have narrow thread, without too many/big knobs at sides(kicks less water and mud up.(with long mudguard and mud flap, my toes stay cleaner and tryer than with most gravel tires.. Also chain is cleaner too)). They roll also fast.. And have good grip on any road. On asphalt they tend to understeer on high speed, when new though.. and on rear the tire wears really fast. But it was so good front tire.. But because it's carcass start to show between treads so fast.. I hesitate to buy more of these.. But can't find anything lelse wit's exactly same narrow thread patern and under 35mm in width.
So I guess having my bike sitting in various different sheds and garages over the last 25 years or so probably means it needs new tires. 😅 Surf Wisely.
How do you judge when your tyres are worn out? Let us know in the comments 👇
I look at the Continental wear indicators. Always carry a boot cut from a retired tire wrapped around the pump and secured with duct tape. Don't leave home without it! Co2 good for 1 shot only!
until they make me fall off haha :)
When they are getting bald..
I have a good look before each ride. Look suspicious pick another bike. Cut or worn spot in the trash. I use the widest tire that fits. Better mileage .
Ok check the wear indicator on my Continental GP 5000 to gauge the life left in my tires....!!!!
Alex's presenter skill trajectory has been tremendous. Excellent addition
Yeah -- but have you want that vid of the 12 y/o working the rollers with Manon? Alex and Ollie really need to up their game big time!!
You people at the GCN covered everything about cycling! I'm a newbie started 9 months ago and every time I search the internet about bikes, you guys are always there! Thank you so much!
Same here! 😀
Inner tube blowout is probably the loudest thing I know, outside of my ex.
mr. proper 💀💀💀
i feel ya😂
No wonder I can’t buy any P zone race or road Tyres gcn have got them all in this video lol
I used to have Vittoria tyres on my bike I have two puncture per week I've got fed up about so I swap to the continental GP 5000 I never have a puncture the best tire so far...
i did not have a single puncture for the entire year on my road bike 😅 and using it 6 times a week for 8 months.
I've had mine 12 years just going thru youtube to see what's out here.
Very interesting. Great video. Next time try the sander with tubeless, just to see the mess all around the studio.
Great video and interesting poll question, but I’ve been burned too many times bragging about how long it’s been since my last puncture only to be caught by the side of the road with a blown tire. I’ll spare myself the jinx this time around.
Now I want to know how many punctures in the last two years? 😂
I'm amazed by the puncture protection provided by some tires these days. I've put about 6 or 7000 kms on a set of Michelin Pro4 Endurance, including a lot of winter riding, and I've had only 1 puncture during that time.
7000 clicks? fucking hell, that would be impressive for a motorbike tire!
With the Pro4 Endurance, I find I have to replace them due to age rather than wear. I've had them start to crack, but never worn them out.
I did ten thousand km in 18 months on a set of Bontrager R3 28 mm wide tyres. gave me 8000 km on Strava for 2020.
'No good tyres were harmed' Inner tubes: 'oi, what about us?'
Hahaha! Alex hates inner tubes anyways lol
@@BigBrownMonke too right😂😂😂
I used to get flats but, since 2016 I started rolling on tubeless tyres, zero flats. I carry an inner tube along with a few tools CO2 carts and the Sram caliper shipping wedges in case I have to fix a flat.
I change my tires when I notice that there have occurred some deeper cuts in the rubber from glass or sharp gravel. With every cut the chances increase that a glass or gravel particel will go into the already existing cut and work its way through the tire during one single ride. If there are no deeper cuts I change the tire when I can see the carcass through the worn rubber in one single place.
I have punctures very rarely, one in about 10.000 km or one every two years. I use Continental 4 Season tires only on my race bike and ride them with high pressure (8 to 9 bar), even it is not so comfortable. (My weight is 73 kg).
When I used to ride GP5000 or Schwalbe One I had a puncture every month or more often.
Inspired by the GCN I bought myself a set of Pirelli P Zero Velo Classics. Can’t wait to start the outdoor season. My bike looks great👍😊
Where do you live? At the north pole? 😁
A very good guess👍Not that far from the arctic circle😅
I puf a 2nd hand wheel on the front with a perished coloured tyre. My friend told me the coloured part had gone hard and it was obviously warped. I didnt change it. Going down a hill into a turn I slid out since the dry coloured part hit the road. Skinned elbow through my clothing and bruised thigh taught me a lesson.
One way to reduce punctures is to not overinflate your tires. The number on the sidewall is the maximum pressure, not the recommended pressure. What pressure should you run at? If you are using high quality supple tires, it turns out to be just enough to make the handling good. Higher pressures can make you slower (counterintuitive perhaps, but well established).
Awe thx I'll remember this. I always had such a problem inflating to recommended pressure.
Top sign that your tyre is worn out: Explosive puncture, fellow club riders look at tyre and point to tyre delamination and inner tube poking through. "There's your problem!". Yes this did happen to me, after years of cycling experience. Easy to forget how many miles a tyre has done, should really get round to creating a maintenance/wear spreadsheet.
If you do ride older tyres, try maintaining them with a mini-screwdriver! Yes I just said that.. use it to pick out the tiny pebbles that collect in the tyre surface, these stack up and ignored can cause a puncture while riding! 👍
Same tyre 20k miles but over 10 years (before I retired) looked fine but the grip wasn't there any more. Resulted in me face planting on a roundabout. Only 1 small sidewall puncture in its life!
As far as some of my tyre replacements go:
I've had a rear that had a flat tread so I replaced it before my most recent century; two rears that got chopped open (one by glass, the other by a chunk of metal that took the inner tube with it); a front that had a compromised bead structure and exploded when it was parked up in the sun; a set on a mountain bike that got a sharp stone lodged in the rubber and gave me two punctures in quick succession; and the most recent casualty was a front GP4000 that had done 12,000km and the tread started coming unstuck from the carcass.
Can you believe that it was more than 3 minutes before Alex mentioned tubeless 😂😂😂 but he made up for it by destroying multiple inner tubes!
All the inner tube hate gotta go somewhere. LOL
@@nekobytes9187 😂 for the sake of a few mins and keeping gunk off my rims I’ll stick to tubilito 👍
Sign 1) when gcn gets a new tire sponsor! Out with conti, need new pirelli!
I just replaced my squared off gp4000 with a set of gp5000 TL and tried out tubeless finally. WOW
the trad pattern isn'tt a good indicator of a worn out tire. Many have superficial tread just for looks. I used to run some schwalbe touring tires that had a note on the instructions saying to replace them when you wear throught to the different coloured rubber in the puncture protection bands.
After pulling glass out of the tire, fill in the holes with shoe goo and give it a few hours to set. Works wonders!
And small cuts are permanently repairable by putting an inner-tube-patch on the inside of the tire. Even bigger cuts can sometimes be repaired with needle, thread and a patch. Repair, reuse, recycle.
@@jan4946 Tubeless is over-hyped for non competitive riders who don't have the benefit of a team-car + mechanic for the wheel swap.
@@jan4946 I've done this for protection. What about using Gorilla tape on the inside of the tire?
@@PoxyBear never tried gorilla tape. If you use an inner tube and the hole is just a few millimeters a few layers should work. It's just tricky to keep it in place.
Thanks for the clarification, Alex!
That inner tube coming out of the wall made me so uncomfortable 🤣
In 36 years of road cycling and 30 years of mechanising I have never seen the gcn tube hernia. But if you had a cut like that in any tyre deflation would be instant. A cut I. The side wall damage only happens when you ride the tyre to flat which is one reason that the tyre noodle might not get you home.
That was a suspenseful episode. funny how terrified I was waiting for the sander to hit the tube. Again when you showed the “hernia” bit.
Is someone taking a belt sander to your tyres a common thing when out on rides I don't think that's ever happened to me , and I'm really slow
Alex literally burning rubber next to his face - “it stinks”
I'm using Continental Gatorskin tires. Maybe they are slower, than other tires, but I didn't have even single puncture after 12 000 km of riding sometimes very bad roads. I just rotated them, to keep them wearing out evenly.
Rotated the back to front cause it's a Gator Hardcase and even tougher. Gatorskin goes in the back. You're not really supposed to put a worn tire in the front! Nothing slower than a puncture, and no team car will ever follow me!
One thing I had recently and never heard about before is that my Michelin MTB tyres were too loose after 10+ years of "use". So I had four flat tyres in a row with always the same strange finding that the valve was torn off. I boiled it down to the tyre spinning around the rim and ripping the inner tyre off. Replacing the outer tyres solved the problem, so take note.
One of my fairly newish tyres has some small cracks only in the wall on the right side. None on the left side. Getting a bit worried about the state of it if more cracks appear. Fortunately it was not a super expensive tyre.
Thanks Alex...be safe .
Hi, i've been using gp5000s and keep getting punctures in the rear, the tyre has flattened but the wear indicator is quite clearly visible and i've only done about 1000 miles. So should I continue using perhaps try a different inner tube or get a new tyre? Thanks in advance.
I had a nail go through my rear tire, a thick, “puncture-proof” winter tire. First ever puncture, and I decided to swap to my summer tires (it was getting warmer) rather than just replace the tube.
The very next ride on the new tires, someone left a ripped up aluminum can on the lakefront trail and it gashed the new front tire wide open. Instant blowout.
Would have been a lot more fun to have worn a flat spot doing massive skids, rather than a sander.
I haven't had a puncture in over a decade. I just roll with Gators these days.
Before a tire gets a noticeable flat spot can you rotate them as you would on a car ? ...or that idea just f@$7ed ?
Do you switch front to rear when the rear tyre has reached half way on its wear point? Or wait til it's almost worn out and just replace it but keep the front as is? I used to switch but don't now as the rears wear out so fast!
I switch front to rear, spreads out the wear to both tires.
2 Rear to 1 Front, no switching.
What FixinTo said 👏. 2 rears to 1 front.
Not supposed to do this due to the squared off profile and greater consequences of failure.
Help please !!
I have a Carrera Vengeance, I'm doing a lot of commuting on the road, so just wondering what tyre you would recommend for me?
Original tyre details Kenda
52-584 (650 x 52B) (27.5 x 2.10)
Kind regards
Lionel
Kind regards
Lionel
How square is too square? How old is too old?
Is there an advantage to rotating tires to promote even wear?
I would say yes. At least if you're fussy about having matching tyres front and rear
Do not put a worn tire on the front as a sudden front tire failure will probably result in a dangerous crash. Sheldon Brown says "Put the good one on the front"
www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html
I know I will hear lots of boos and hisses about this...….I use tuffy tire liners and usually make it without any punctures throughout the year. I ride for the love of it and get in about 3000 to 4500 km per year. I check my tires before every ride and give them a quick wipe down. Takes a minute but saves me 10 minutes on the side of the road fixing a puncture. The whole point is to enjoy the ride and having punctures really messes with that. Cheers!
Thank you sir
What about the 'feeling ' that you have a heavy stroke or something like slippery some times but your eye can caught any diferent than the usual. And what about the small cuts not bigger than 5 mm ?
I bought some cheap red wall tyres for me bicycle from ebay last year. They look cool but have developed deep cracks in them around the edges from being inflated... Should i replace them? As the still feel okay
yeah, instead of a sander you could do a skid competition. Would be way more fun
Yeah! How many licks does it take to get to the caramel center of a tootsie roll pop!
Got a question. SHIMANO WH-RS171 100/142MM 700C my default jant set I wonder ıf Pirelli P7 Sport 700X28 Folding tire fits ?
Is Alex going to be about tubeless tyres like what Ollie is about aero?
Gatorskins tires will only last me about 4 months of riding 20 miles every day. But they can and do last me longer than the indicators.
kept expecting alex to peddle tubeless the entire time. you could knock me over with a feather by the end of the video when he didn't!
😂😂😂😂
After two puncher on a ride took to the shop to buy a brand new tyre, second ride had a hole/cut on the side.
Wait, but if you already have a set of £80+ tyres and you total one you're not really buying an upgrade so there is cause to worry.
I trashed a Vitoria corsa speed 3 days after buying it. I didn't consider the replacement an upgrade.
I would love to see a similar video for gravel tyres.
How about thorns ..how many holes ?
Great advice as usual, but the sander segment was pointless. Mind you it would have been a lot of fun had he been using tubeless!
Thanks. That was wheely good - well done Alex.
I have done 5000km on the rear of the p zero velo (non 4S non race)... no puncture
Wouldn’t you be damaging the tire by sanding it fi not needed ? Sorry I’m new to cycling
"Big cuts"
My pair of Panaracer Gravelkings have a total of 4 big cuts in between the 2 of them(thanks to my due inexperience of running my tyre pressure way too low 2 years back,as a beginner).
I simply patched them up with around 2 layers of duct tape,and to this day,I'm still running that same pair of tyres.
I over bumped my tires, but how would i know they're dead?
I mean it's my first time! And the tires are always kinda flat
Guys, I just wanted this video. I searched it and saw your video that you posted 9 min before.
Hey alex does a tire wear much faster when it is on the reverse on its recomended tire rotation or thats ok to put it on reverse
The rotation direction only has an impact on the grooves pattern. On car tires this pattern is designed to chase the water to the sides, but that's a non-issue for road bikes with a contact patch that is only a few millimeters wide. So short answer, the rotation direction does not matter, except for cosmetic reasons.
@@simonr7097 you beat me to that answer haha. Thanks 👍
What'll you do if you're riding fixed gear and turn the wheel around to ride the tailwind! Does it void a warranty? Maybe create 0.25 watts extra aero drag. Even out the wear caused by the crown of the road? Did anyone hear that tree fall?
On tire age... why do so many store old tubulars in a dark place and use them years later? I know some Cross riders have brought out tubs that are years out of production to win on them.
That's an Eddie Merxx thing. At the time, who would doubt the guy's advice.
Thanks.
#OneMessageFoundation
My biggest issue is getting a new tyre mounted without damaging the inner tube. I literally always damage at least one because there are tyres that are incredibly difficult. Continental GP4000s already was a real pain in the arse but Schwalbe Pro One is a sheer nightmare. Two tubes died in the attempt, one was damaged but fixable. This can't be normal, can it? Am I just being a blithering idiot or do other fellow riders face the same problem?
Some tires just fit very tightly. Warm them in the oven or sunlight before trying to install them. The heat will make them more elastic and will mount a bit easier.
@@robertbarriger2596 I'll try that next time. I think I found a technique to make it easier. When I deflate the tube completely before putting on the last bit of the tyre, it works much better...
I knew he was going to mention tubeless tires, i knew it
Not kidding about inspecting the bead on tubeless. I dismissed a slightly damaged bead and had the tire blow off while sitting in the sun.
Punctures start ing. Change. What do old unworn tyres though
A quastion regarding the "expanding" of tires:
Is it possible the tires slightly expand over time --> meaning: is it possible that my 28mm tires become broader over time (moths/years)?
I am trying to fit larger tires but I am worried that even if the might fit in the beginning, they might scrape my frame after some time (2-3years)
Can't take poll incase I jinks myself 🙃
If you cant tell your tires are done for by having them looking like a charred and messed up F1 tire your not sending it hard enough
I’m surprised that there isn’t a date stamp on bike tyres like on vehicles 🤷🏼♂️
Hi, my front tyre has many small cuts. Should I change it? It has only 1200km
It depends in part on how deep they are. If they reach all the way in to the carcass, the tire may be vulnerable. Also, if you have several such cuts right next to each other, the tire may tear altogether at that spot.
no man!
New bike tire day is almost as good as new bike day....almost. I change mine at the start of each season, just because.
GCN Tech,
There it is again: the rubber spikes on the tire. Repeatedly, how many grams do those rubber spikes on the tire weigh? You go on about weight and aerodynamics. I enjoy your channel yet wonder why you do not address weight issues with such glorifying the modern, extra-light frame. I will keep asking. Other viewers have seen this comment and I will keep repeating it. Thanks.
Hey Ronin, i have already added your question in for an upcoming Tech Clinic, so keep an eye out for that 😎. The weight on those bits are very small though 👍
@@GCNalex, Yes, I realize the small amount, but the turbulence created(aerodynamics), over distance, is at issue. Could you calculate the drag over the course of Le Tour de France, for example? Small things add up. Thanks.
wonder what the lean angle is on my pzeros
Note how all the failures involved tubes and not tubeless did you not fancy a pink shower. All the failures that are illustrated here would have been harder to repair roadside tubeless. If you slash a tubeless you might be able to plug it or you’ll have to patch it and pop a tube in messier and trickier to get the patch to stay in place in a tubeless tyre.
Why do you Bryts mis-spell tire?
As my bicycle tyres seem to cost more than my car tyres I'll ride them till I see the canvas, Im not made of money.
They certainly cost more per mile than almost any passenger car tire. They can last 40,000 miles easily, whereas a bike tire may go 3000 miles with a light rider. Half the tires doesn't make up the difference.
Change your tires immediately if they don't have Dugast, FMB, or Challenge printed on the sidewall.
Did you know that 1-dollar note 💵 can protect inner tube from exploding through a cut?
Wise choice using tubes, Alex, if you'd chosen tubeless you'd be covered in sealant.
Sanding a pressurized rubber tire with no glasses... tisk
Is latex really worth it?
Not if you're allergic to it!
What a pity to waste to such tyre 🥺
I’m enjoying the bike so far th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
For a crash course in tyre wear, try riding fixed gear for a couple of months. You'll be an expert in no time and you won't even have to worry about dated and cracked tyres. They certainly won't last all that long. Aahh the tyre and money consuming fun of skidding...
@@pureroadie That they are indeed. That's why I keep a front brake on my track bike when on the road. I get to enjoy skidding to my heart's content and also keep smiling with all my teeth intact.
I've got a ceremonial front brake and used it to good effect once!
Best bang for your buck upgrade 😂 but they are sponsored by Pirelli and a set of pzeros is going to easily set you back by 100 bucks. They are the best tires on the market no question about that, I've been using pzeros and centurato for years now but they sure are expensive and not economical by any stretch of the term
Try turbo cotton amazing tyres but at €75 a pop they are damn expensive still buy them though 😂
I spent 40 € on a 35 mm Cinturato and I've been riding it for 16.000 km on my rear wheel without a single puncture. The front tire will probably last 20.000 km. Unless you're racing, skip the P Zeros and go for the Cinturato.
I got 3 bikes, one has the centurato 28mm, then there is my race bike and i got the pzero 25mm on that one, the last one is a vintage road bike with cst 23mm tires. Pzero are worth it if you train fast or if you're racing as you said, the centurato are the durable ones but I've also tried the pzero 4s tire this winter on my race bike and they are also really reliable tires. The only thing is that Pirelli are not cheap, you're always between 100-90€ for a pair. My cst 23mm are like 15€ each 😅 you can also find Michelin tires at 20€ a pair. So I wouldn't call Pirelli tires cheap, not at all, they are expensive as hell but at least you are paying for a really good tire
no puncture ever. I started road cycling 20 may last year!
Well then you haven't started it completely 😅
@@kedarkulkarni3030 heading out on my bike right now. Hopefully no flats 😬
@@Mathiasbendiksen I am in lockdown man😭
Don't jinx it bro 😂
That's unfortunate. You need some practice for when you do get a puncture 😉
GCN: let's wear out a tyre to see if it's worn out
What about this kind of wear: drive.google.com/file/d/1iQMvPWcPMOMfa0dpPEfxirmD-B2-L9OU/view It's Schwalbe cx pro tire. I think it wore this way because I rode on gravel a lot. And it was front tire. It seems that these tires wear that way very quick. I wonder how safe it is to ride with a tire that has still enough thread, but carcass is visible between thread knobs. Will it be strong enough when I break hard from high speed..? 60Km/h maybe.
I like these tires because they have narrow thread, without too many/big knobs at sides(kicks less water and mud up.(with long mudguard and mud flap, my toes stay cleaner and tryer than with most gravel tires.. Also chain is cleaner too)). They roll also fast.. And have good grip on any road. On asphalt they tend to understeer on high speed, when new though.. and on rear the tire wears really fast. But it was so good front tire.. But because it's carcass start to show between treads so fast.. I hesitate to buy more of these.. But can't find anything lelse wit's exactly same narrow thread patern and under 35mm in width.
That was an expencive video😂
It would be exorbitant if this video was made by some other YT chanmel
So I guess having my bike sitting in various different sheds and garages over the last 25 years or so probably means it needs new tires. 😅
Surf Wisely.
5:25 Alex's evil side!
Oh... So the carcass isn't the indicator?
2:05 know when to change your pants 🤣
R.I.P. to the that tire man 😭
#GCNTech So what did Si think of Alex taking a sander to one of his tires??