Has this tip helped you? Here is a free way to help me. Here is my Amazon influencer page that has many of the parts I've used in videos and some parts that friends have used. www.amazon.com/shop/poweraddicts-fixjeepscom-jeepcarandmotorcycletips?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp . By purchasing through this Amazon page you help me get a small commission of the sale and you do not get charged a cent more. Keep checking back because I update the Amazon page often. Thanks for your support!
+ricardo avila Your welcome. Before I started creating TH-cam videos myself, I remember watching others for instructional guidance. Realizing that they were seriously lacking in information, I stepped up the game by making sure my videos were truly going to help whoever viewed them. It makes the videos a bit longer as far as time. In the end that extra time spent helps someone. So .. time well spent :-) Glad you like the videos and thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment! Have a great day!!
I broke that tail-shaft housing on my NP231 several years ago when the pinion yoke broke on my old Dana-35. Unfortunately mine also cracked the rear half of the t-case. I ended up just grabbing another NP231 from a '97 XJ ($40 at the local U-Pull) and installed an SYE in that case and shortened an XJ front drive shaft to use with it in the rear. That later NP231 had the exposed output shaft and doesn't have the long tail-shaft housing like my original one. It just uses a rubber boot to cover the slip yoke. Best part with that style is you can run without the rear drive shaft and not lose any fluid since it has a sealed output shaft. That later NP231 also has a true neutral which is much better for flat towing the Jeep. The old one would have the front and rear outputs both locked together (like in 4wd) in neutral where the later one separates them in neutral (like in 2wd).
JeepCollector91 Problem with the yards around here is Jeep 4x4 parts are gone as fast as they show up. I've only seen one Wranger (CJ7) once in the many many times I've been at any of them and it was a shell. I grabbed the body armor off of it. Four wheel drive Cherokees are stripped of the 4x4 parts leaving the engines on the ground. I broke the AX15 and closest one I could find was at the western side state line of Tennessee. Even with over 150,000 miles on it they wanted $600 for it. Buddy of mine found a 4.0 still attached to the AX15 out of a mid 90's XJ for $350. I hooked up the trailer and left immediately. I got that new housing from eBay. I also won an auction where I got the parts left over from the person installing a SYE. So, now I have an extra one. I want to do a SYE and 8.8 sometime. The way that 4.0 is going through oil, I'm building an engine first. I do believe I'm going.4.6 stroker, already been parts shopping. Just haven't started dropping coins yet.
Power Addicts - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips I usually get most of my spare parts by purchasing wrecked, rusted, non-running, or burned out Jeeps off craigslist or ebay. Then after I get the parts I need I can usually part out the rest and make a small profit. I did get my '87 XJ Dana-44 from the local U-pull for $60 and transfer case from the '97 XJ for $40. Around here the YJ's and TJ's are pretty much stripped out within a week of them arriving at the U-Pull and AX15's are the first to go. Best bet to find a good AX15 around here is to look for one in an XJ and re-drill the mounting flange for the t-case to be clocked at the proper angle for a YJ.
JeepCollector91 I started to drill the XJ AX15 to reclock it. I was on JeepForum and one of the members (95YJMounty or something like that) suggested swapping the tail housings since I had a Wrangler AX15. It was really easy, there is a vid on my channel demo'ing it. I bought a 95 2wd XJ a while back and robbed the engine and other things. Then scrapped the body. So .. good motor and other various parts for about $100 after scrap price.
Sorry about the slow reply. There is a fill plug at the top of the transfer case to add more fluid. I've got a video showing how to change the fluid in the tcase.
Mine broke today, 91 YJ 2.5... universal joints broke loose and wamo, did your shaft bend? Mine has a very slight wiggle but I think it will work with a new extension...
Luckily it didn't bend the output shaft. I was worried about that, so I got lucky. Installed the new output housing, did this U-bolt conversion: th-cam.com/video/laE74ReAr-U/w-d-xo.html . I haven't had a driveshaft / U-joint issue since. Good luck and thanks for checking out my video! Have a great day!
It's a '91 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 4.0 5-speed. The issue was that AMC / Chrysler uses those cheap thin metal straps to hold the u-joint in place on the rear diff yoke. Those straps tend to stretch making the u-joint cup loose and there goes the driveshaft. Here is my video that better explains what was happening: th-cam.com/video/laE74ReAr-U/w-d-xo.html . Hope it better explains the issue. Since I performed the mod in that video, I haven't dropped the driveshaft since. If you decide to so the mod I demo in that video, please make sure you get it right. If you dont you may have to replace the whole rear diff yoke. Hope this helps you :-) . Have a great day!
Has this tip helped you? Here is a free way to help me. Here is my Amazon influencer page that has many of the parts I've used in videos and some parts that friends have used. www.amazon.com/shop/poweraddicts-fixjeepscom-jeepcarandmotorcycletips?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp . By purchasing through this Amazon page you help me get a small commission of the sale and you do not get charged a cent more. Keep checking back because I update the Amazon page often. Thanks for your support!
My appreciation to take the time to guide us, very technically.
+ricardo avila Your welcome. Before I started creating TH-cam videos myself, I remember watching others for instructional guidance. Realizing that they were seriously lacking in information, I stepped up the game by making sure my videos were truly going to help whoever viewed them. It makes the videos a bit longer as far as time. In the end that extra time spent helps someone. So .. time well spent :-) Glad you like the videos and thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment! Have a great day!!
Vids have been helping me for years drive to work. Did your alum output tail come with a copper peice that goes inside?
I love your videos, they're really helpful and are helping me in trying to fix my jeep up.
Glad you like them!! Thanks for hanging out! Have a great day!
I broke that tail-shaft housing on my NP231 several years ago when the pinion yoke broke on my old Dana-35. Unfortunately mine also cracked the rear half of the t-case. I ended up just grabbing another NP231 from a '97 XJ ($40 at the local U-Pull) and installed an SYE in that case and shortened an XJ front drive shaft to use with it in the rear.
That later NP231 had the exposed output shaft and doesn't have the long tail-shaft housing like my original one. It just uses a rubber boot to cover the slip yoke. Best part with that style is you can run without the rear drive shaft and not lose any fluid since it has a sealed output shaft. That later NP231 also has a true neutral which is much better for flat towing the Jeep. The old one would have the front and rear outputs both locked together (like in 4wd) in neutral where the later one separates them in neutral (like in 2wd).
JeepCollector91 Problem with the yards around here is Jeep 4x4 parts are gone as fast as they show up. I've only seen one Wranger (CJ7) once in the many many times I've been at any of them and it was a shell. I grabbed the body armor off of it. Four wheel drive Cherokees are stripped of the 4x4 parts leaving the engines on the ground. I broke the AX15 and closest one I could find was at the western side state line of Tennessee. Even with over 150,000 miles on it they wanted $600 for it. Buddy of mine found a 4.0 still attached to the AX15 out of a mid 90's XJ for $350. I hooked up the trailer and left immediately.
I got that new housing from eBay. I also won an auction where I got the parts left over from the person installing a SYE. So, now I have an extra one. I want to do a SYE and 8.8 sometime. The way that 4.0 is going through oil, I'm building an engine first. I do believe I'm going.4.6 stroker, already been parts shopping. Just haven't started dropping coins yet.
Power Addicts - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips I usually get most of my spare parts by purchasing wrecked, rusted, non-running, or burned out Jeeps off craigslist or ebay. Then after I get the parts I need I can usually part out the rest and make a small profit. I did get my '87 XJ Dana-44 from the local U-pull for $60 and transfer case from the '97 XJ for $40. Around here the YJ's and TJ's are pretty much stripped out within a week of them arriving at the U-Pull and AX15's are the first to go. Best bet to find a good AX15 around here is to look for one in an XJ and re-drill the mounting flange for the t-case to be clocked at the proper angle for a YJ.
JeepCollector91 I started to drill the XJ AX15 to reclock it. I was on JeepForum and one of the members (95YJMounty or something like that) suggested swapping the tail housings since I had a Wrangler AX15. It was really easy, there is a vid on my channel demo'ing it. I bought a 95 2wd XJ a while back and robbed the engine and other things. Then scrapped the body. So .. good motor and other various parts for about $100 after scrap price.
I may be late to this party but I was looking for the video that shows me how to top off the fluid in the transfer case
Sorry about the slow reply. There is a fill plug at the top of the transfer case to add more fluid. I've got a video showing how to change the fluid in the tcase.
Why is there a grove on the new one? Mine doesn’t have a groove. Looks like your old one doesn’t either
Mine broke today, 91 YJ 2.5... universal joints broke loose and wamo, did your shaft bend? Mine has a very slight wiggle but I think it will work with a new extension...
Luckily it didn't bend the output shaft. I was worried about that, so I got lucky. Installed the new output housing, did this U-bolt conversion: th-cam.com/video/laE74ReAr-U/w-d-xo.html . I haven't had a driveshaft / U-joint issue since. Good luck and thanks for checking out my video! Have a great day!
thanks for your video, what did you torque the bolts down to on the output shaft.
I honestly couldnt say. I just snugged them down tight, but didnt crank down on them. If I had to guess ... I'd say about 10 - 15 foot pounds.
Where can I buy the seal
I got mine at O'Reilly Auto parts
How did the drive shaft become loose???
What year Jeep is this?
It's a '91 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 4.0 5-speed. The issue was that AMC / Chrysler uses those cheap thin metal straps to hold the u-joint in place on the rear diff yoke. Those straps tend to stretch making the u-joint cup loose and there goes the driveshaft. Here is my video that better explains what was happening: th-cam.com/video/laE74ReAr-U/w-d-xo.html . Hope it better explains the issue. Since I performed the mod in that video, I haven't dropped the driveshaft since. If you decide to so the mod I demo in that video, please make sure you get it right. If you dont you may have to replace the whole rear diff yoke. Hope this helps you :-) . Have a great day!
とうございます」、
You're welcome!!