Great video. Our dryer stopped heating so I watched your video, got out my digital meter, took the back off the dryer. Tested everything and there was no continuity through the thermal cut off. I got the model number off the dryer and looked up the parts diagram, got the part number. Found the part on Amazon for $8.00. Replaced the part and dryer works great. Thank you sooo much.
Just took apart and discovered the problem was the heating element. Thank you for this video and for providing the link to find the part. I just bought it and saved a lot of money getting a whole new dryer!
My dryer spins (I replaced belt via your help). It heats up, but heat is not blowing into dryer. How do I know if it's the blower wheel or blower motor? I use your videos alot. For a girl...I can fix almost anything via your DIY videos! Everything has been fixed all by myself! Thank you!.
Julie Johnson..."for a girl..."?!? Come on! Give the gentler sex more credit!! Except for very heavy lifting, there is nothing that guys (like myself) can do which ladies cannot do! However there are a few things that ladies can do which guys CANNOT do...like carrying another human being inside themselves for 9.5 months.
"For a girl ?" Julie ? Do you have a brain and working eyes and fingers ? Well, that's all you need, my friend ! Ha, ha.... ( for a girl.... ha, ha ) I like you.
@@LionofPower I'm thinking it's either the timer is just shutting off . But outside where the dryer vents, there were a lot of vines growing up the brick and maybe the vent is clogged or blocked? Our backyard is very over grown. Thanks for your help.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you very much honestly I have watch literally almost 30 or more TH-cam to fix my dryer unfortunately Some make it a bit complicated some Have no clue what they are saying I have tried to fix almost a month I get frustrated I left it for a while. today when I saw your TH-cam it was amazing simple helpful and I was able to fix it thank you again God bless you
Thank you guys so much for expanding my troubleshooting. I was able to replace my 220 wall socket and that fixed all my problems my dryer was spinning but not heating turns out the socket was bad. Thank you 😁👍🏻👍🏻
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks for this. I hope its not so hard to take a part and get at these things. That is usually the case with repairs....getting things out of the way and not damaging them in order to get to the part you are after.
I had this issue with a brand new dryer. I flipped the circuit breaker off and then flipped it back on and it worked. Easiest fix of my life. It’s as if I did a “hard reset” on it. Weird, but it worked.
Remember when everyone used a outside clothes line? Those were the days! If clothes didn't dry you knew it was because it had rained. Good video though, helped me fix the issue and save a few bucks.
Thank you SOO much. Yesterday I was thinking my outside electricity was not working so I went to my circuit box. I have never touched the dryer circuit before. Well if it wasn't listening to your tape about checking the circuit I would have called a dryer repairman since I had already checked the vent!!
Great video - I appreciate you sharing this. Quick question: with testing the outlet, do you need to cut the power before doing that, to avoid getting electrocuted? Excuse my ignorance, but I always thought sticking stuff in electrical outlets was dangerous.
If you cut the power then you’re defeating the purpose of the test. Yes it’s dangerous to stick two wires and complete a circuit. A multimeter is meant to do this tho. Voltage will only go over when the resistance is low enough, that’s when it gets dangerous. I suggest you just call a repair person whenever your unsure, it’s better to be sage then sorry.
Thanks for asking that question... It sounds like a foolish question but I was wondering the exact same thing. And better safe than sorry as the last guy said.
Hey I have a GE electric dryer. I got in 2011 in February 2021 when I was drying my clothes I noticed there was no heat. Also two days before there was a power outage. Do you think it blew the thermal fuse in the dryer?
@@repairclinic thanks I think there needs to be an additional context to check the start button itself. This helped me problem solve, but, something I noticed about my own drier is when you actually hit the start button you don't hear a click like you do (pretend you're checking to see if a fuel pump kicks on). But very helpful. Thanks. I got help problem solving because I don't have a volts meter. I have a micrometer but I'm also too scared to mess around with a 240 even unplugged. Too many voltz and amps for me. Hehe. Thanks!
Don’t forget a major reason is improper venting, wrong type, too long, too many bends, wrong discharge hood, screen in discharge hood. Repairing a dryer without repairing cause is not the best
djmesican best is to follow the supplied installation instructions that comes with dryer. They will list the number of elbows, distance, termination good type. I have seen several different ways to install dryers but the common things are no foil venting and no plastic even if fire rested. Best is 4” rigid metal with as little number of joints. No screens at termination hood.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Sure enough, my thermal fuse was open when I checked it. The vent hose was clear but I noticed outside that a recycling bin was backed up right against the vent itself. Thanks!
I changed the heating element and it heated for just about a minute then it must of blown one of the fuses. thank you! I have the thermal fuse and need to buy cycling thermostat. Thank you!.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
I've replaced the heating element and every single fuse/thermostat and sensor and tested for continuity and they're all good. Still no heat. I checked the power coming from the wall with a cheap harbor freight multi meter and it's reading 113-118 volts each side and a constant 233-238 that will only occasionally touch 240 volts for a split second, is that acceptable or not enough power?
Same and even bought a new timer as well, we’ve fixed ours 4 different times but this time nothing is working. It’s spinning and getting heat but not drying clothes. Did u ever fix yours?
It should feel warm at most. If it is scalding hot then you might have an issue. My dryer get warm to the touch on top but I can place my hand on it without burning it.
Air is drawn through the drum over tumbling laundry through the fan and pushed out the exhaust vent. This air picks up heat from the electric element in the air duct leading into the drum. IF the felt seal on the drum is leaky, then air may be drawn straight into the drum. Air from the leak(s) would be much cooler than air drawn over the element. The sensors/ thermostats by the fan and exhaust would continue to signal that more heat is needed and power to the coils is maintained. Meanwhile, due to the leak(s), the insufficient airflow over the heating coils causes them to overheat. Subsequently the thermal fuse between the coils and the drum trips (continuity through the fuse is broken). Power to the coils stops. All heating stops. Is this a realistic scenario? Because at this point I've cleared the lint screen, verified a clear, clean, unimpeded exhaust, replaced the coils, replaced the thermostats, and torn my hair out. But I've still got the same problem with the thermal fuse tripping 5-7 minutes into a cycle.
I just went through this same blown fuse issues ... I discovered that the 2 FOAM seals were near to gone/non-existent ... this foam goes on both sides of this mounting plate...on one side it seals the blower wheel housing and on the other side it seals the duct housing that the lint screen fit into. Because these foam seals were discentergrading, it was not sucking air properly ... This air flow should go/come first through the slots that are on the rear exterior cover panel of the machine, then through/over the heater coil box and up the rear chute and in through the opening of the rear bulkhead and into the drum that is tossing the clothes, then, the air is still being drawn down through the lint screen but it is at this point, that the blower wheel now pushes air out the exhaust tube to (usually) an outside outlet. SO, because the air was not going over the heater coils, it would get to hot and the safety thermal cut off fuse tripped which cuts power to the heater coils, thus no heat but the machine will still run, just with no hot air.
@@kathycoffey9408 Just an FYI... fuses don't "trip", they blow. Thermostats trip. Breakers trip. Fuses blow... and once they blow they are done... kaput... garbage... :-)
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this?
Never knew voltage from the outlet could cause a dryer to not heat. I think that might be my problem. There's no way I could have two different dryers not heat. Right? Can it also cause the dryer knob to not turn as well? That's also happened to both dryers.
We bought two brand new dryers first one GE, our old Dryer the heat stopped working, the new dryer same thing no heat, so we bought a new plug and everything that goes to the electric box did not work so we then bought a Amana Dryer same thing, we have a 2nd box we hooked the plugs to it the dryer goes in with brand new breakers, still same thing. is it possible we got two defective dryers from two different companies?
I have a problem with an electric dryer that won't heat (maytag lse 1000). I checked all fuses and they are have continuity. Also 230 comes to dryer ( checked 3 prongs). Heating element shows 14 ohms. How can I test that Heating element gets 220? I've put one probe of multimeter on one of connectors of HA and second probe on second connectror of HA and there was nothing. Then I put one probe on connector of HA and second probe on body and got 110 . And i got the same when i tested second connector of HA. So i think i get 110 from both sides. Or i did that test incorrectly?
I climbed on top of my dryer earlier to get something that fell behind it and when I dried my clothes for an hour and a half after they were still cold and wet. I don’t know what to do or what happened.
Kenmore Elite HE4T dryer-start cycle, makes one beep like it does when the cycle usually starts, only nothing happens. But when it's at the end of the drying time, it beeps just like it ran a normal drying cycle
So when i test the two legs for voltage, its suppose to equal 240? But how if there is no negative involved? Mine read like .07 voltage when testing the two legs without a ground
I'm 8 months late on this, but it's because AC is a sine wave. The two legs have opposite phases, so at peak, they have voltage readings of +120 on one leg, and -120 on the other. Since voltage is a measure of the difference in potential, when you connect +120 and -120, the total difference is 240 volts.
First of all, "current" would not be measured when fixing a dryer. You would be measuring Voltage or Continuity (resistance). Beyond that, it depends on what you are trying to measure as to whether "0" is good or bad. If you are measuring continuity of a fuse, then 0 or close to 0 is EXACTLY what you want. It means the fuse is good. (current has nothing to do with it and continuity should NEVER be measured with power plugged in). If measuring wall voltage, your meter should be set to "V" (volts) and if you see 0 there is no voltage present. If this is the case, the breaker is tripped or the wire came loose in the wall outlet. Unless you have had training to reconnect it, contact an electrician to fix it. When measuring voltage, current has nothing to do with it either.
@@repairclinic It's interesting. Hot doesn't heat at all, but warm does. I'll start with the dial, make sure the hot setting is making contact. Pending that, I guess it could be a thermostat/sensor issue from your video above. Perhaps it gets tripped at hot speed, but not warm. Thanks for the info.
I have an Amana dryer tht is only a little over a year old. Has a warranty but hh Gregg went out of business now I got to get it fixed somehow . Any ideas
Hey, I was a manager for an HH Gregg. This is a really late reply to your post, but if you had a warranty through the Company, Warrentech was a third party warranty company. They covered appliances for other stores such as Home Depot, Sears, Lowes, and etc. All you would have to do is contact Warrentech (there numbers online I don't remember off the top of my head, sorry). As long as you kept your receipt/invoice they're be able to send someone out to either service it and if it couldn't be, they'd replace it. You said you had it for a little over a year and the post is almost a year old so if you had a 3+ year warranty you'd still be covered. If it was a manufacturer warranty Amana only covers the product for a year. I wish I had seen this sooner, the same applys to any other appliances you had covered under a warranty, they're covered as long as it's still within time and you have the receipt. They'd just ask for the invoice number which would be on the top right corner of the paper.
Great video. Our dryer stopped heating so I watched your video, got out my digital meter, took the back off the dryer. Tested everything and there was no continuity through the thermal cut off. I got the model number off the dryer and looked up the parts diagram, got the part number. Found the part on Amazon for $8.00. Replaced the part and dryer works great. Thank you sooo much.
Just took apart and discovered the problem was the heating element. Thank you for this video and for providing the link to find the part. I just bought it and saved a lot of money getting a whole new dryer!
Did the easiest 1st and it worked! Vacuumed out lint remover insides and the exhaust too. And it works again! Thanks
I need to try this. Thanks
How dirty mine wasn't dirty at all
My dryer spins (I replaced belt via your help). It heats up, but heat is not blowing into dryer. How do I know if it's the blower wheel or blower motor? I use your videos alot. For a girl...I can fix almost anything via your DIY videos! Everything has been fixed all by myself! Thank you!.
Julie Johnson..."for a girl..."?!? Come on! Give the gentler sex more credit!! Except for very heavy lifting, there is nothing that guys (like myself) can do which ladies cannot do! However there are a few things that ladies can do which guys CANNOT do...like carrying another human being inside themselves for 9.5 months.
"For a girl ?" Julie ? Do you have a brain and working eyes and fingers ?
Well, that's all you need, my friend !
Ha, ha.... ( for a girl.... ha, ha )
I like you.
What was the issue?
@@LionofPower I'm thinking it's either the timer is just shutting off . But outside where the dryer vents, there were a lot of vines growing up the brick and maybe the vent is clogged or blocked? Our backyard is very over grown.
Thanks for your help.
@@californiadreaming9216bro ur names California dreaming pipe down cornball
Omg. Life saver. My thermal fuse blew and we almost bought a new dryer. $5 part & got our dryer working again, thanks to this video.
Where do you buy a thermal fuse?
Great video, no long intro BS just right down to business.
8 Years later (2024/06/23) . . and this video is still a goldmine of invaluable data.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you very much, 4 years after you guys posted the video and saved me a new dryer for absolutely no cost
This is what youtube was created for . Love this channel !!!
Thank you very much for posting this with intricate visuals. This is super helpful. Thank you kindly. God bless you.
It was the thermal fuse.15 $ and 3 days later its working Thank you!
Thank you very much honestly I have watch literally almost 30 or more TH-cam to fix my dryer unfortunately Some make it a bit complicated some Have no clue what they are saying I have tried to fix almost a month I get frustrated I left it for a while. today when I saw your TH-cam it was amazing simple helpful and I was able to fix it thank you again God bless you
Thank you guys so much for expanding my troubleshooting. I was able to replace my 220 wall socket and that fixed all my problems my dryer was spinning but not heating turns out the socket was bad. Thank you 😁👍🏻👍🏻
Cool thanks!
How did you know the socket was broken? Please help!!
Got my dryer working again. It's all your fault. 😊
All kidding aside, your content is still very beneficial to other folks. 🤘🏾
whoever made this video is a genius
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks for this. I hope its not so hard to take a part and get at these things. That is usually the case with repairs....getting things out of the way and not damaging them in order to get to the part you are after.
I had this issue with a brand new dryer. I flipped the circuit breaker off and then flipped it back on and it worked. Easiest fix of my life.
It’s as if I did a “hard reset” on it. Weird, but it worked.
Sometimes unplugging and plugging it back in is the easiest solution.
Thanks for the info. Fixed mine. Awesome and cost me $0.00
Super, very helpful. You deserve a million views. Thank you
Hector Garcia-Martinez '
Thankyouuuuuu so much now I can help my parents with this information
Thank you my heating element was bad
Thanks for posting. Probably saved me thousands.
Cool thanks!
RepairClinic.com
Amazo
Jeremy Mettler lol
Remember when everyone used a outside clothes line? Those were the days! If clothes didn't dry you knew it was because it had rained. Good video though, helped me fix the issue and save a few bucks.
Solar Clothes Dryer
Those days suck lol...been doing that for the last few months...🙄😒
What did people do in the winter?!?!? I gotta know!
I never put my clothes outside to dry.
@@amerzian They would still dry outside in the winter.
Thank you SOO much. Yesterday I was thinking my outside electricity was not working so I went to my circuit box. I have never touched the dryer circuit before. Well if it wasn't listening to your tape about checking the circuit I would have called a dryer repairman since I had already checked the vent!!
Thank you for making this video. Just fixed my neighbor's samsung heater element and temp resistor. Good to go because of this video!
Great video - I appreciate you sharing this. Quick question: with testing the outlet, do you need to cut the power before doing that, to avoid getting electrocuted? Excuse my ignorance, but I always thought sticking stuff in electrical outlets was dangerous.
If you cut the power then you’re defeating the purpose of the test. Yes it’s dangerous to stick two wires and complete a circuit. A multimeter is meant to do this tho. Voltage will only go over when the resistance is low enough, that’s when it gets dangerous. I suggest you just call a repair person whenever your unsure, it’s better to be sage then sorry.
Thanks for asking that question... It sounds like a foolish question but I was wondering the exact same thing. And better safe than sorry as the last guy said.
6years later ..here i am....thanks man...🤙
Very good
Hey I have a GE electric dryer. I got in 2011 in February 2021 when I was drying my clothes I noticed there was no heat. Also two days before there was a power outage. Do you think it blew the thermal fuse in the dryer?
Thanks! I need to learn how do to this. I'd give you more but I can't.
Thank you so much! We appreciate you.
@@repairclinic thanks I think there needs to be an additional context to check the start button itself. This helped me problem solve, but, something I noticed about my own drier is when you actually hit the start button you don't hear a click like you do (pretend you're checking to see if a fuel pump kicks on). But very helpful. Thanks. I got help problem solving because I don't have a volts meter. I have a micrometer but I'm also too scared to mess around with a 240 even unplugged. Too many voltz and amps for me. Hehe. Thanks!
Don’t forget a major reason is improper venting, wrong type, too long, too many bends, wrong discharge hood, screen in discharge hood. Repairing a dryer without repairing cause is not the best
Can you direct me to a website that will tell me what is the best way to vent?
djmesican .............guess not.
djmesican best is to follow the supplied installation instructions that comes with dryer. They will list the number of elbows, distance, termination good type. I have seen several different ways to install dryers but the common things are no foil venting and no plastic even if fire rested. Best is 4” rigid metal with as little number of joints. No screens at termination hood.
Perfect.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
TY
Thanks for the clear and simple info! I had an open 120V leg. The vid led me right to it.
Gonna tear into mine tonight and see what kind of goodies I’ll find
Thank you so much! It turned out to be a 12 awg wire charred and broken. This video was very helpful,.
I'm now here with the 1.7 million viewers
WOW! THIS IS AWESOMELY EXPLAINED!!!
Thanks!
Sure enough, my thermal fuse was open when I checked it. The vent hose was clear but I noticed outside that a recycling bin was backed up right against the vent itself. Thanks!
I changed the heating element and it heated for just about a minute then it must of blown one of the fuses. thank you! I have the thermal fuse and need to buy cycling thermostat. Thank you!.
How do you get to the thermo fuse and heating element on LG?
thanks fuse bad dryer now working
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
I wondered how come my old and new dryer not heating , checked the power , one of the fuse gone , replaced started working . Thank god ..
Did god make this video? Lol
thanx
Thanks
Ok. I get it.
2:24 makes me nervous to try
Ludwig Fan Doing what we were taught all our lives to NEVER EVER do! 🤯🤯
Ludwig Fan 0
😐
@Police of ROBLOX Gaming no hes scared that a shark is going to pop out and bite him
@@brendensolomon7423 👏👏👏😆👍
I reset my 2x30 amp breaker, Immediately started working.
Thank you
Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?
My thermal fuse was thermally fused. Thank you.
So it was working? (for the less electrically inclined... if it is fused, it is functional)
I've replaced the heating element and every single fuse/thermostat and sensor and tested for continuity and they're all good. Still no heat. I checked the power coming from the wall with a cheap harbor freight multi meter and it's reading 113-118 volts each side and a constant 233-238 that will only occasionally touch 240 volts for a split second, is that acceptable or not enough power?
Same and even bought a new timer as well, we’ve fixed ours 4 different times but this time nothing is working. It’s spinning and getting heat but not drying clothes. Did u ever fix yours?
@@amandakay789please help! Same problem! Any solution??
No refunds if they tell you wrong solution. Buy parts somewhere else. I learned the hard way.
Thank you ,thank you, than you.....
You're welcome!
Should the top of my dryer get hot is that normal
It should feel warm at most. If it is scalding hot then you might have an issue. My dryer get warm to the touch on top but I can place my hand on it without burning it.
Thank you,very much.🙂😎
⁰0
What is the name of the part next to the thermal fuse, shown at :19 ???
Mine stopped heating after my mother used it while visiting. I'm super upset. That's why I don't like people to touch my stuff.
The two purple wires parked on the blower overheat switch should have continuity or no?
Air is drawn through the drum over tumbling laundry through the fan and pushed out the exhaust vent. This air picks up heat from the electric element in the air duct leading into the drum. IF the felt seal on the drum is leaky, then air may be drawn straight into the drum. Air from the leak(s) would be much cooler than air drawn over the element. The sensors/ thermostats by the fan and exhaust would continue to signal that more heat is needed and power to the coils is maintained. Meanwhile, due to the leak(s), the insufficient airflow over the heating coils causes them to overheat. Subsequently the thermal fuse between the coils and the drum trips (continuity through the fuse is broken). Power to the coils stops. All heating stops.
Is this a realistic scenario? Because at this point I've cleared the lint screen, verified a clear, clean, unimpeded exhaust, replaced the coils, replaced the thermostats, and torn my hair out. But I've still got the same problem with the thermal fuse tripping 5-7 minutes into a cycle.
I just went through this same blown fuse issues ... I discovered that the 2 FOAM seals were near to gone/non-existent ... this foam goes on both sides of this mounting plate...on one side it seals the blower wheel housing and on the other side it seals the duct housing that the lint screen fit into. Because these foam seals were discentergrading, it was not sucking air properly ... This air flow should go/come first through the slots that are on the rear exterior cover panel of the machine, then through/over the heater coil box and up the rear chute and in through the opening of the rear bulkhead and into the drum that is tossing the clothes, then, the air is still being drawn down through the lint screen but it is at this point, that the blower wheel now pushes air out the exhaust tube to (usually) an outside outlet. SO, because the air was not going over the heater coils, it would get to hot and the safety thermal cut off fuse tripped which cuts power to the heater coils, thus no heat but the machine will still run, just with no hot air.
James Romanski Show off. Jk. Thanks
@@kathycoffey9408 Just an FYI... fuses don't "trip", they blow. Thermostats trip. Breakers trip. Fuses blow... and once they blow they are done... kaput... garbage... :-)
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this?
If the issue is number 4 with the outlet. Then what's the fix for that?
Never knew voltage from the outlet could cause a dryer to not heat. I think that might be my problem. There's no way I could have two different dryers not heat. Right? Can it also cause the dryer knob to not turn as well? That's also happened to both dryers.
Christopher F FCC
Same thing going on wit me
Same
Same
@@mjjackson8337how did you fix it? Please help!
We bought two brand new dryers first one GE, our old Dryer the heat stopped working, the new dryer same thing no heat, so we bought a new plug and everything that goes to the electric box did not work so we then bought a Amana Dryer same thing, we have a 2nd box we hooked the plugs to it the dryer goes in with brand new breakers, still same thing. is it possible we got two defective dryers from two different companies?
Please help!!! We are having same type of electrical issues and life is so expensive. How did you fix?????
I have continuity everywhere I should, the dryer runs but doesn't heat. I checked everything . The vent is clean. What else should I check?
Then it could be something with the fuel to start the fire?
Did you check the socket?
@@boeing-777x
>The dryer runs
Obviously the plug works.
@@chrisnotyou bro did you not hear that if it only receives 1 phase of 120v instead of 2 the dryer will run but not heat
I have the same problem. Element is good, thermal shutoffs are good, fuse is good, and supply voltage is good.
I have a problem with an electric dryer that won't heat (maytag lse 1000). I checked all fuses and they are have continuity. Also 230 comes to dryer ( checked 3 prongs). Heating element shows 14 ohms. How can I test that Heating element gets 220? I've put one probe of multimeter on one of connectors of HA and second probe on second connectror of HA and there was nothing. Then I put one probe on connector of HA and second probe on body and got 110 . And i got the same when i tested second connector of HA. So i think i get 110 from both sides. Or i did that test incorrectly?
I climbed on top of my dryer earlier to get something that fell behind it and when I dried my clothes for an hour and a half after they were still cold and wet. I don’t know what to do or what happened.
Are you fat or skinny?
Kenmore Elite HE4T dryer-start cycle, makes one beep like it does when the cycle usually starts, only nothing happens. But when it's at the end of the drying time, it beeps just like it ran a normal drying cycle
My Frigidaire electric dryer just quit checked breaker, unplugged and plug in 12 yrs old could it be a fuse
Juston Glen
I'm guessing fuze is most common?
Costway dryer for rv EP24749
If it explodes while I’m using the multimeter what do I do
So when i test the two legs for voltage, its suppose to equal 240? But how if there is no negative involved? Mine read like .07 voltage when testing the two legs without a ground
I'm 8 months late on this, but it's because AC is a sine wave. The two legs have opposite phases, so at peak, they have voltage readings of +120 on one leg, and -120 on the other. Since voltage is a measure of the difference in potential, when you connect +120 and -120, the total difference is 240 volts.
So if it reads 0 on the multi meter tool it means there is a current and its working? Or no?
It’s not working.
First of all, "current" would not be measured when fixing a dryer. You would be measuring Voltage or Continuity (resistance). Beyond that, it depends on what you are trying to measure as to whether "0" is good or bad. If you are measuring continuity of a fuse, then 0 or close to 0 is EXACTLY what you want. It means the fuse is good. (current has nothing to do with it and continuity should NEVER be measured with power plugged in). If measuring wall voltage, your meter should be set to "V" (volts) and if you see 0 there is no voltage present. If this is the case, the breaker is tripped or the wire came loose in the wall outlet. Unless you have had training to reconnect it, contact an electrician to fix it. When measuring voltage, current has nothing to do with it either.
How many average homeowners have a multimeter?
Kenya Bridge
Hackett Center
lights went out several times, now dryer not heating, what do u think happened? just replaced washing machine, please help!
Yeah I have those devices just lying around... sheesh
@FUCK GOOGLE yeah, what this guy said, ya idiot
Anderson Station
Shanahan Stravenue
Oliver Groves
Our gas dryer warms when set to Warm, but not Hot. Any ideas what can be eliminated?
@@repairclinic It's interesting. Hot doesn't heat at all, but warm does. I'll start with the dial, make sure the hot setting is making contact.
Pending that, I guess it could be a thermostat/sensor issue from your video above. Perhaps it gets tripped at hot speed, but not warm.
Thanks for the info.
Blanda Shores
All I did was unplug Mine wait 10 seconds plugged it back in it started heating up
Jayce Way
Russel Plains
my Samsung Dryer doesn't heat up. I have cleaned out the vents and bought a new one.
Where are those thermal fuses and thermostats available? Does Home Depot sell them?
I clean my vents 2 time's a year
Ortiz Fort
Lemke Tunnel
I have an Amana dryer tht is only a little over a year old. Has a warranty but hh Gregg went out of business now I got to get it fixed somehow . Any ideas
Hey, I was a manager for an HH Gregg. This is a really late reply to your post, but if you had a warranty through the Company, Warrentech was a third party warranty company. They covered appliances for other stores such as Home Depot, Sears, Lowes, and etc. All you would have to do is contact Warrentech (there numbers online I don't remember off the top of my head, sorry). As long as you kept your receipt/invoice they're be able to send someone out to either service it and if it couldn't be, they'd replace it. You said you had it for a little over a year and the post is almost a year old so if you had a 3+ year warranty you'd still be covered. If it was a manufacturer warranty Amana only covers the product for a year. I wish I had seen this sooner, the same applys to any other appliances you had covered under a warranty, they're covered as long as it's still within time and you have the receipt. They'd just ask for the invoice number which would be on the top right corner of the paper.
Shea Port
Kasey Trace
I give up
A good simple answer, I only wish a human was speaking
Upton Villages
Gislason Fork
Ahmad Cove