I learned alot from watching this. I dont think I've seen any other youtuber talk about this. From the tool itself and how to use it... to the number of links in the timing belt between the cam phasers... Great info! Thanks alot!
Luther. Ive watched your video. I want to thank fir the posting and a teaching experience from you. Other automotive mechanic or Techs are being blamed for reluctor wheels moving. Rather than blame someone. You posted a detail way of using a tool to verify. Again Sir thank you. God bless you Sir
Can you do one installing the tool on the left head . I want to see if I can eye ball if I have a shifted reluctor wheel on the left side camshaft on a neighbors car that I took the cover off and then came across your video . Thanks
Great video, one correction for the timing chain its 12 rivets or 6 links but we get the point. Do you know of a way to check chain wear or stretch, in my motorcycle days you could check wear by pulling the chain up off the sprocket at the center of its wrap and you should see no more than half the tooths valley, you also would check tension by pushing down on the chain between the two sprockets, I would think any wear, stretch or wrong tension could create backlash that would set miss fires codes most likely both sensor 1 and sensor 2 of that bank because it would effect both intake and exhaust cams.
Have u ever seen the tone wheel covered in gunk and metal wear causing inaccurate readings? I have a 2019 jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.6l and it has a slightly rough idle and engine feels like it surges or misses with no cel or codes. Also the voltage will drop when this happens. At idle voltage drops but rpm increases from 600 to 650 briefly then r3covers. Dealership couldn't find the problem. I'm desperate for a fix bro please help
I hope you’re able to jump back on the tube and continue to create content brother. You’ve answered a lot more than a 15,000 page service manual could!
Great video! On same engine I just replaced camshafts, rockers and lifters. Now i have even louder ticking noise from before. No codes come on. Everything is running smoothly. Only on 4th speed around 1600rpm i get little jurkwhen accelerate smoothly. Any thoughts on that? Thanks!
Muchas gracias por la información yo soy de México no encuentro la herramienta crees que me podrías proporcionar los planos de tu herramienta de antemano muchas gracias
Not all vehicles can you go by "left bank" and "right bank." Some models, primarily the Town and Country and Grand Caravan have the engine orientated east-west in the bay so your "right bank" is really the rear bank and the "left bank" is the front bank. However one tried and true method of determining bank 1 and bank 2 is that bank 1 always has cylinders 1, 3 and 5 while bank 2 has 2, 4 and 6. Bank 1, the odd bank is the one where the head is most forward. It's always on the right, or passenger side of the car in north-south configurations or back in east-west. Bank 2 is the even bank and always on the left (driver's) side for N-S or front on E-W cars.
@@Andy-gw7hd if you look at the engine from the back side, opposite the serpentine belt, bank 1 is on the right side. Bank 1 is passenger side on N-S engines and inside closest to the firewall on E-W engines.
Hello, great video!! I replaced the lifters and rockers on my son’s 2014 charger, typical tick. While trying to take off the bank one valve cover the studs from the valve cover gouged the tone wheel. The car has a long crank no start now. It is in time, is it possible that the gouged wheel is causing the issue? Thank you
@@marossgnvTIG welding uses localized heat, I doubt it would heat the reluctor wheel enough to damage it or it’s magnetism. The wheel would not need a full weld, just a few tack welds. What is the recommended method of repair now, replacing the camshaft?
@@gfbemc0256 TIG welding is not a good option. The tone wheel is very sensitive. Best way is to use an adhesive that's heat resistant up to 300 degrees Farenheit or higher and oil resistant.
Grease? Only asking because if its silver or metallic in color its metal sticking to the magnetic segments of the tone wheels. i suggest wiping it off with a paper towel or shop rag. Avoid using harsh cleaners. No need for brake cleaner etc it will 99.9 percent of the time wipe off. Those tome wheels can be damaged with certain cleaners if not used properly so that's why use a rag of some sort
@@luthergrant7336thanks for replay back. Yea that was my though I’m getting a no start it died on me and won’t start back I changed every thing electrical you can think of just not the harness and when I was about to change phasers I notice the toners being junk on them I was thinking maybe it’s build up material and blocking the signals to start. Do you even think that’s possible to cause a no start
I just did my rocker arms and I also used a magnetic pickup tool and I think I touched it to the tone wheel. I have a p0349 code that won't clear and I'm stuck in limp mode. Probably gonna need both cams for bank 2. Why do they design these like this??!!
@marcsciarrotta3109 Dang, that sucks! I was fortunate enough not to have any codes thrown once I put everything back together. I guess I just got lucky. That was one of the things that most videos don't talk about is the magnetic part of the tonewheel mostly everybody talked about the cam phaser and its sensitivity to magnetic tools. When I did use the film it did show the magnetic field and it look normal so maybe try that first and see if the magnetic waves are disrupted because if it's not, it honestly might be something else. Good luck and hopefully you find out the problem, I couldn't imagine having to tear it back down again
Damn dude that was really good, I would like to find that tool somewhere. What's the recommended fix, replace the cam? That hole was so far off you didn't need the pin. Do you think I could order that part thru Chrysler?
If the tone wheel moves enough to set a cam position sensor code then you get the long crank times before the engine would actually start. When moved the ecm can no longer confirm correlation between cam and crank and will almost always sub a value to get it started. Long crank times are the only symptom I've really ever noticed unless its several teeth out in which case it can cause driveability issues. Thanks for the comment and question. Sorry for the delayed response.
@@luthergrant7336 Thanks for the reply. Reason I asked is that I replaced several bad rocker arms in my 2013 Town and Country. Unfortunately, I put it off so long they destroyed the lobes on my bank 2 exhaust camshaft. I bought a replacement camshaft off ebay for $88 that did not come with the tone wheel. I moved the old one over and aligned it as best I could. (didn't know about the tool till afterwards when I saw your video) My engine runs great now: no ticking, power restored, and cleared the misfire codes, however, I started getting camshaft position codes and camshaft slow response codes on that bank I assume due to the tone wheel being misaligned. Glad you discussed the tone wheel. Very hard to find information on it.
@@dustinlaferney3160 did you ever fix your slow response time on the cam? As I have the same problem on the intake and exhaust on bank 1. I've changed cam sensor and the 2 cam phaser solenoids. It runs great except that it doesn't downshift once it hits 6th gear and the codes 369 and 000a and 000b. It's permanent codes s not sure what is wrong.
@@Sam-656 Wish I could help. Not sure why your ride is throwing those codes, must be another problem. My TC is still running great with 211K miles despite the camshaft sensor codes. If you figure it out, let us know. Good Luck!!
Had a dealer chaged bank 1 intake phaser and oil control valve. Transmission starts off in D3 when driving, assuming the engine codes 0000A, AND PO017, CODES, ONLY HAS 102,000 MILES. CHANGED CAM POS SENSOR BANK 1. TONE RING ON INTAKE CAM LOOKS LIKE SCRATCH IN IT. COULD THIS BE CAUSING THESE CODES? WEIRD 2 CODES ON EXH, AND INTAKE ON SAME BANK 1. CHAIN DOESN'T SEEM STRETCHED, MAYBE TENSIONER! NO CODES FOR BANK 2. THANK YOU
The reason you do this is to find out if the toner wheel has become loose and shifted. If it has become loose, you will be able to rotate it by hand, so you adjust it by rotating it with your hand. Another reason you would do this is when replacing a camshaft and the new camshaft you bought doesn't come with toner wheel. That's what the tool is for. Once you set the timing by aligning the arrows on the phasers to point directly to each other, you then place the tool like he shows in the video, and align the holes in the tool to the holes on both toner wheels by sticking the pins through the tool and toner wheels. After you do that, you mark the toner wheel and the camshaft, take off the toner wheel and use an appropriate adhesive to set the tone wheel in place.
Hi I had tick so I put in all new lifters n. Roller rockers on 3.6 p. Star now I have code p0300 po301 stored p0345 po390 could you please tell me what it is I need to do to to correct it thank you Brian
Hi Luther Grant. I did look at the Chrysler 3.6 tone wheel tool. I am impress.Any how i am having issues with a 2008 jeep wrangler unlimited 3.8 Liter.I did scan for trouble code P0304/P0300 Stored. Could i use my lab scope to check this problem. Let me know how to check for cam and crank synchronization. Let me know how to proceed. Regards. Winston.
Quick question bro...what if I keep getting the p0018 but already replaced both camshaft with tonewheels but the code only pops up on a cold start...after that I can drive the car all day and the light won't come back...only on my first 2 to 3 starts I keep getting a p0018
Remove your VVT solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner and lint-free rag. Then clean the hole where the VVT solenoid goes in as well as you can. Only use brake cleaner on the VVT solenoids after they're removed from the engine and don't use brake cleaner to clean the hole they go into. You can use a little bit of SeaFoam to clean the hole. If this doesn't fix it, you will have to teardown engine far enough to clean the passages between VVT solenoids and phasers. You'll also have to check phasers to make sure they're locked in place to the camshaft. The camshaft shouldn't rotate independently of the phaser when engine is not running. There's a lockpin that keeps them locked when there's no oil pressure. It' goint to be one of these 2 things. If you're the original owner, then you have to do more frequent oil changes. Most of the time this is a result of not changing your oil at recommended intervals with good quality oil and filter. Sludge builds up and it block oil flow to the VVT solenoids and phasers.
ayuda por favor un mecánico hecho a perder mi auto solo cambio los elevadores y balancines. ahora tengo check engine, el escaner indica banco 2 sensor 1. se puso sensor nuevo y aun marca. por favor mi auto prende y camina solo tarda al hacer cambios y no entra sobremarcha.
You can't. Once it's moved you have to replace the camshaft. It is pressed on the camshaft at the factory and is very precisely set up and would be nearly impossible to even get it back into the correct phase on the shaft. Here in the USA the camshafts aren't very expensive.
Heat makes it move so i guess if you heat it and try to rotate it could go back; ivan from pine hollow channel has avideo on a pentastar engine that needed to be replaced, he diagnosed it with a scope
Please help a mechanic who ruined my car, he only changed the lifters and rockers. Now I have a check engine, the scanner indicates bank 2, sensor 1. A new sensor was installed and it still shows. Please, my car starts and runs, it only takes a while to make changes and it doesn't go into overdrive.
It just goes to show how ignorant people can be and still open their mouths. There's a lot of very good mechanics that are called in by dealerships when they can't figure out what's wrong with a vehicle.
Yes. There will be a metal on them from chain and gear wear as well as other steel parts. I will clean them off with a rag when I got the valve covers off. It usually doesn't interfere with the sensors unless it gets an extreme amount on them.
@@luthergrant7336 I was just going to ask if that should be cleaned off.. I'm doing head gaskets on my 2013 challenger and noticed the metal on the tone wheel's....got the heads resurfaced they are back from the machine shop... starting reassembly tommorow...great information my man....👍👍💪😎💯
@@DonCatherman First thank you for the great compliment and for the question. Second yes the debris should be wiped off. Just use a rag, paper towel whatever you can find that isn't abrasive. Use of brake cleaner or carb cleaner or anything harsh like that can damage the material. So i always just use shop towels. Awesome on doing your own work.
Yes you have to replace the camshaft. The tone wheel is pressed on at the factory. I'm not sure if i said this in this video but i have gotten allot of these that are inadvertently damaged by techs who place their magnetic tear down trays on top of the valve covers while they are working. Thus ruining the magnetized tone ring. They are very sensitive and can be easily damaged even just bumping into it while moving it around if you have it out. Ive even had them bad off the shelve although its super rare.
@@darriusstricker5352 I'm very sorry man i didn't see this latest comment. As long as you didn't get the magnetic source too close to the wheel your okay. It would depend on the strength of the magnet that would determine how close is too close. I'm pretty sure unless you laid the socket right on top of the tone wheel itself its okay.
@@luthergrant7336 Hi why cant a second hand one be pressed on with sleeve loctite in the correct position , we have a near new engine that fell off a pallet when shifted which broke cover and damaged tone wheel ,we are in new zealand so real hard to get parts for american cars ,but we have second hand ones off wrecked engines .
Interesting. Rather than spending $300 on that thing, is there any reason I can't just compare the questionable cam to a known good cam? Or is the amount the tone wheel likely to be off too small to just compare visually?
Yes if your proficient with a scope then you can scope the cams and see the one where the wheel has shifted. There are times when it shifts and almost appears normal or within spec we'll call it. But it will not complete the cam/crank relearn. Overall the tool is a good visual verification that the wheel has in fact moved. Particularly if you have employee(s) that aren't good with a scope. Ive done hundreds of cams, timing chains, phasers etc on the 3.6 its become muscle memory by now but my help not so much. I still require them to perform the visual verification test like the factory manual says. Except I could never find any info on how to use the tool. That's why i created this video.
@@luthergrant7336 Understood. We solely service the pentastar, but we havent encountered any tone wheel shift yet. My guess is that when we do, we’ll just bundle it with a rocker arm replacement and replace the cam. We did have a super weird one come in last month. Get this; p0016 and p0017. Cam slow response both cams rear bank (b1). Dealer had it, did cam sensor, cams, hardwired the sensor and phaser to the ecu, replaced the ecu. opened a case, and star told them to replace THE ENGINE with a Jasper. That didnt get it either. We got it, and verified it, but were forced to tell the customer to just live with it. I gave the custy a scanner so at least they could monitor the engine for new codes. That job sticks in my craw because we couldnt get it. Pisses me off, frankly. And thoughts? Exhaust restriction? Maybe those noise supressors that bolt to the head? It wasnt chain or tension. It keeps me up at night, that engine.
@@promastersonly1419 Hi Kip, are you saying that the dealer couldn't figure it out, that they replaced the motor, and ECU and it still gives P0016 an P0017? Did they swap anything from the old motor like cam sensors or oil control valve actuators? I'm having a similar strange situation. I'm still hunting my problem down. Thanks for all you do for the community.
@@vetsen That particular job was a bust. The dealer had it for TWO YEARS before we got it. The replaced everything. Dedicated wiring for the cam sensors. They put in a new PCM. Finally they threw a Jasper at it. Didnt fix it. Star case opened, engineers looked at it. Finally they threw an entire SECOND Jasper at it on their dime! Then they kicked the customer out. In the end, I got the customer a decent scanner so they could reset the code and they are still driving it. David Pike over at Motorcity Mechanic has a new video on a related code that might help you. Go check it out.
If you decide to buy this tool please do yourself a favor And spend the extra money and buy the factory Miller tool and don't buy the aftermarket option because I did spend the extra $50 dollars because I have seen The aftermarket tool and The markings are different and confusing 😮 And buy the Way The aftermarket tool is about 250 and the original one is about $300 not cheap 😮😮😮
I learned alot from watching this. I dont think I've seen any other youtuber talk about this. From the tool itself and how to use it... to the number of links in the timing belt between the cam phasers... Great info! Thanks alot!
Thank you so much for this comment. I appreciate it very much
It's all in a factory service manual
Luther. Ive watched your video. I want to thank fir the posting and a teaching experience from you.
Other automotive mechanic or Techs are being blamed for reluctor wheels moving. Rather than blame someone. You posted a detail way of using a tool to verify. Again Sir thank you. God bless you Sir
Fantastic information !!! This video really helped my question. 🙌
Can you do one installing the tool on the left head . I want to see if I can eye ball if I have a shifted reluctor wheel on the left side camshaft on a neighbors car that I took the cover off and then came across your video . Thanks
Iv seen one this week fixed it with a cam great video but wasn't sure the fix till I seen the tool
Funny thing that trips a lot of techs up is the fact that cam sensor 1 reads cam 2 and vice versa. on bank 2, cam sensor 3 reads cam 4 and vice versa.
Great information and video. Thank you for making it
Great video, one correction for the timing chain its 12 rivets or 6 links but we get the point. Do you know of a way to check chain wear or stretch, in my motorcycle days you could check wear by pulling the chain up off the sprocket at the center of its wrap and you should see no more than half the tooths valley, you also would check tension by pushing down on the chain between the two sprockets, I would think any wear, stretch or wrong tension could create backlash that would set miss fires codes most likely both sensor 1 and sensor 2 of that bank because it would effect both intake and exhaust cams.
Have u ever seen the tone wheel covered in gunk and metal wear causing inaccurate readings? I have a 2019 jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.6l and it has a slightly rough idle and engine feels like it surges or misses with no cel or codes. Also the voltage will drop when this happens. At idle voltage drops but rpm increases from 600 to 650 briefly then r3covers. Dealership couldn't find the problem. I'm desperate for a fix bro please help
I hope you’re able to jump back on the tube and continue to create content brother. You’ve answered a lot more than a 15,000 page service manual could!
Great video! On same engine I just replaced camshafts, rockers and lifters. Now i have even louder ticking noise from before. No codes come on. Everything is running smoothly. Only on 4th speed around 1600rpm i get little jurkwhen accelerate smoothly. Any thoughts on that? Thanks!
I've done a lot of 3.6 pentastars. Usually when you have a correlation code on the 3.6 in many of my situations it's always been a bad cam phaser.
Does that cause the car to like run rich and drive a little rough? Because I just got a p0340 and it’s acting up
@@Alialmaliki18 it certainly can cause your timing for that camshaft is bouncing back and forth
Muchas gracias por la información yo soy de México no encuentro la herramienta crees que me podrías proporcionar los planos de tu herramienta de antemano muchas gracias
Great video! Very helpful
Not all vehicles can you go by "left bank" and "right bank." Some models, primarily the Town and Country and Grand Caravan have the engine orientated east-west in the bay so your "right bank" is really the rear bank and the "left bank" is the front bank. However one tried and true method of determining bank 1 and bank 2 is that bank 1 always has cylinders 1, 3 and 5 while bank 2 has 2, 4 and 6. Bank 1, the odd bank is the one where the head is most forward. It's always on the right, or passenger side of the car in north-south configurations or back in east-west. Bank 2 is the even bank and always on the left (driver's) side for N-S or front on E-W cars.
Then won’t bank one always be on left side of oil cam on all 3.6
@@Andy-gw7hd oil cam??
@@Andy-gw7hd if you look at the engine from the back side, opposite the serpentine belt, bank 1 is on the right side. Bank 1 is passenger side on N-S engines and inside closest to the firewall on E-W engines.
Hello, great video!!
I replaced the lifters and rockers on my son’s 2014 charger, typical tick. While trying to take off the bank one valve cover the studs from the valve cover gouged the tone wheel. The car has a long crank no start now. It is in time, is it possible that the gouged wheel is causing the issue? Thank you
No, a gouged tone wheel would NOT cause a no start. The PCM has 3 other tone wheels and CKP sensor to determine timing.
Thank you, excellent video. What is the correct repair, a new camshaft? Has anyone considered TIG welding the wheel to the camshaft?
Who knows what the heat will do to the magnetic ring.
@@marossgnvTIG welding uses localized heat, I doubt it would heat the reluctor wheel enough to damage it or it’s magnetism. The wheel would not need a full weld, just a few tack welds. What is the recommended method of repair now, replacing the camshaft?
@@gfbemc0256 TIG welding is not a good option. The tone wheel is very sensitive. Best way is to use an adhesive that's heat resistant up to 300 degrees Farenheit or higher and oil resistant.
Where do you have your shop bro ?
When I took my covers off I see alot of grease on the toner wheel is that normal is it ok to clean off
Grease? Only asking because if its silver or metallic in color its metal sticking to the magnetic segments of the tone wheels. i suggest wiping it off with a paper towel or shop rag. Avoid using harsh cleaners. No need for brake cleaner etc it will 99.9 percent of the time wipe off. Those tome wheels can be damaged with certain cleaners if not used properly so that's why use a rag of some sort
@@luthergrant7336thanks for replay back. Yea that was my though I’m getting a no start it died on me and won’t start back I changed every thing electrical you can think of just not the harness and when I was about to change phasers I notice the toners being junk on them I was thinking maybe it’s build up material and blocking the signals to start. Do you even think that’s possible to cause a no start
@@Andy-gw7hd I haven't ever had buildup cause any problems. A slight wonky scope signal but not any starting issues.
Ok thank you
Thank you for this video! Saved my ass!
Can you use magnetic viewing film to verify if the tone wheel was damaged by a magnet? My magnetic pickup tool accidentally touched the tone wheel
I just did my rocker arms and I also used a magnetic pickup tool and I think I touched it to the tone wheel. I have a p0349 code that won't clear and I'm stuck in limp mode. Probably gonna need both cams for bank 2. Why do they design these like this??!!
@marcsciarrotta3109 Dang, that sucks! I was fortunate enough not to have any codes thrown once I put everything back together. I guess I just got lucky. That was one of the things that most videos don't talk about is the magnetic part of the tonewheel mostly everybody talked about the cam phaser and its sensitivity to magnetic tools. When I did use the film it did show the magnetic field and it look normal so maybe try that first and see if the magnetic waves are disrupted because if it's not, it honestly might be something else. Good luck and hopefully you find out the problem, I couldn't imagine having to tear it back down again
Outstanding video thank you mark mangano dependable auto wartburg tennessee
Thank You soo much
Damn dude that was really good, I would like to find that tool somewhere. What's the recommended fix, replace the cam? That hole was so far off you didn't need the pin. Do you think I could order that part thru Chrysler?
Great explanation! Other than throwing that fault code, how will the tone wheels being out of alignment affect engine performance?
If the tone wheel moves enough to set a cam position sensor code then you get the long crank times before the engine would actually start. When moved the ecm can no longer confirm correlation between cam and crank and will almost always sub a value to get it started. Long crank times are the only symptom I've really ever noticed unless its several teeth out in which case it can cause driveability issues. Thanks for the comment and question. Sorry for the delayed response.
@@luthergrant7336 Thanks for the reply. Reason I asked is that I replaced several bad rocker arms in my 2013 Town and Country. Unfortunately, I put it off so long they destroyed the lobes on my bank 2 exhaust camshaft. I bought a replacement camshaft off ebay for $88 that did not come with the tone wheel. I moved the old one over and aligned it as best I could. (didn't know about the tool till afterwards when I saw your video) My engine runs great now: no ticking, power restored, and cleared the misfire codes, however, I started getting camshaft position codes and camshaft slow response codes on that bank I assume due to the tone wheel being misaligned. Glad you discussed the tone wheel. Very hard to find information on it.
@@dustinlaferney3160 did you ever fix your slow response time on the cam? As I have the same problem on the intake and exhaust on bank 1. I've changed cam sensor and the 2 cam phaser solenoids. It runs great except that it doesn't downshift once it hits 6th gear and the codes 369 and 000a and 000b. It's permanent codes s not sure what is wrong.
@@Sam-656 Wish I could help. Not sure why your ride is throwing those codes, must be another problem. My TC is still running great with 211K miles despite the camshaft sensor codes. If you figure it out, let us know. Good Luck!!
I have a 2014 chrysler 300 3.6 I have a p000c with a p0019 can not git rid of these codes dose it have to do the tone wheel
Luther, Where are you located ? Do you work on customer's 3.6 engines ? Great Video !
I need to replace my camshafts for a reluctor ring issue.
It runs fine with no noises. Would it be okay to reuse the phaser/ocv in your opinion
yes
Had a dealer chaged bank 1 intake phaser and oil control valve. Transmission starts off in D3 when driving, assuming the engine codes 0000A, AND PO017, CODES, ONLY HAS 102,000 MILES. CHANGED CAM POS SENSOR BANK 1. TONE RING ON INTAKE CAM LOOKS LIKE SCRATCH IN IT. COULD THIS BE CAUSING THESE CODES? WEIRD 2 CODES ON EXH, AND INTAKE ON SAME BANK 1. CHAIN DOESN'T SEEM STRETCHED, MAYBE TENSIONER! NO CODES FOR BANK 2. THANK YOU
Anyone know where I can buy these alignment tools there are all sold out
Donde puedo conseguir esa herramienta
Hey where can you buy the tool?
It is out of stock on the mopar essentials website. I just checked and the only place that has a set listed for sale is FreedomRacing.com
if I'm understanding this right, the tool shows if its out of time? if the timing marks are correct and the tune wheel is off, how is it adjusted?
new cam
The reason you do this is to find out if the toner wheel has become loose and shifted. If it has become loose, you will be able to rotate it by hand, so you adjust it by rotating it with your hand.
Another reason you would do this is when replacing a camshaft and the new camshaft you bought doesn't come with toner wheel.
That's what the tool is for. Once you set the timing by aligning the arrows on the phasers to point directly to each other, you then place the tool like he shows in the video, and align the holes in the tool to the holes on both toner wheels by sticking the pins through the tool and toner wheels. After you do that, you mark the toner wheel and the camshaft, take off the toner wheel and use an appropriate adhesive to set the tone wheel in place.
Buen video donde puedo adquirir la herramienta para verificar los captadores
Hi I had tick so I put in all new lifters n. Roller rockers on 3.6 p. Star now I have code p0300 po301 stored p0345 po390 could you please tell me what it is I need to do to to correct it thank you Brian
Have someone else check the timing and go from there.
Hi Luther Grant. I did look at the Chrysler 3.6 tone wheel tool. I am impress.Any how i am having issues with a 2008 jeep wrangler unlimited 3.8 Liter.I did scan for trouble code P0304/P0300 Stored.
Could i use my lab scope to check this problem. Let me know how to check for cam and crank synchronization. Let me know how to proceed. Regards. Winston.
If you have a 4 channel scope, backprobe the CMPs and CKP and connect to scope to see waveforms, then compare waveforms to known good waveforms.
Quick question bro...what if I keep getting the p0018 but already replaced both camshaft with tonewheels but the code only pops up on a cold start...after that I can drive the car all day and the light won't come back...only on my first 2 to 3 starts I keep getting a p0018
Following... Did you ever get the P0018 code to stop ? Thanks
Remove your VVT solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner and lint-free rag. Then clean the hole where the VVT solenoid goes in as well as you can. Only use brake cleaner on the VVT solenoids after they're removed from the engine and don't use brake cleaner to clean the hole they go into. You can use a little bit of SeaFoam to clean the hole. If this doesn't fix it, you will have to teardown engine far enough to clean the passages between VVT solenoids and phasers. You'll also have to check phasers to make sure they're locked in place to the camshaft. The camshaft shouldn't rotate independently of the phaser when engine is not running. There's a lockpin that keeps them locked when there's no oil pressure. It' goint to be one of these 2 things. If you're the original owner, then you have to do more frequent oil changes. Most of the time this is a result of not changing your oil at recommended intervals with good quality oil and filter. Sludge builds up and it block oil flow to the VVT solenoids and phasers.
ayuda por favor un mecánico hecho a perder mi auto solo cambio los elevadores y balancines. ahora tengo check engine, el escaner indica banco 2 sensor 1. se puso sensor nuevo y aun marca. por favor mi auto prende y camina solo tarda al hacer cambios y no entra sobremarcha.
Where are you located
2 locations In Jacksonville Arkansas
Thanks ..does this tool available on ebay ?
Mopar dealer is best place to buy
How do you reposition the tone wheel if it is out, what is the cure
You can't. Once it's moved you have to replace the camshaft. It is pressed on the camshaft at the factory and is very precisely set up and would be nearly impossible to even get it back into the correct phase on the shaft. Here in the USA the camshafts aren't very expensive.
thank you so much for your help
Heat makes it move so i guess if you heat it and try to rotate it could go back; ivan from pine hollow channel has avideo on a pentastar engine that needed to be replaced, he diagnosed it with a scope
@@RafaelDavidpersonalpage th-cam.com/video/nTYEr1__5n8/w-d-xo.html Ivan’s video
Factory cam is over $300!!!! @@luthergrant7336
Great video 👊🏻
Please help a mechanic who ruined my car, he only changed the lifters and rockers. Now I have a check engine, the scanner indicates bank 2, sensor 1. A new sensor was installed and it still shows. Please, my car starts and runs, it only takes a while to make changes and it doesn't go into overdrive.
But HOW would these move out of alignment?
With time they can become loose. Just part of the wear and tear process. A result of using cheap low quality at factory
Utheman thanx
Why not use the cam lobes to tell you're at TDC?
So you fix what the dealers can't???....Right
It just goes to show how ignorant people can be and still open their mouths. There's a lot of very good mechanics that are called in by dealerships when they can't figure out what's wrong with a vehicle.
Could this slipped tone wheel also cause a p0394 code? I recently replaced the rocker arms in bank 2 and now I have this code constantly....
Did you ever figure it out?
The metal debris on top of the tone ring itself, is that normal in these 3.6l?
Yes. There will be a metal on them from chain and gear wear as well as other steel parts. I will clean them off with a rag when I got the valve covers off. It usually doesn't interfere with the sensors unless it gets an extreme amount on them.
@@luthergrant7336 I was just going to ask if that should be cleaned off..
I'm doing head gaskets on my 2013 challenger and noticed the metal on the tone wheel's....got the heads resurfaced they are back from the machine shop... starting reassembly tommorow...great information my man....👍👍💪😎💯
@@DonCatherman First thank you for the great compliment and for the question. Second yes the debris should be wiped off. Just use a rag, paper towel whatever you can find that isn't abrasive. Use of brake cleaner or carb cleaner or anything harsh like that can damage the material. So i always just use shop towels. Awesome on doing your own work.
😊 👍
How do you change the tone wheel? Replace the whole cam
Yes you have to replace the camshaft. The tone wheel is pressed on at the factory. I'm not sure if i said this in this video but i have gotten allot of these that are inadvertently damaged by techs who place their magnetic tear down trays on top of the valve covers while they are working. Thus ruining the magnetized tone ring. They are very sensitive and can be easily damaged even just bumping into it while moving it around if you have it out. Ive even had them bad off the shelve although its super rare.
I did a tune up on mine and used a magnetic socket.
@@darriusstricker5352 I'm very sorry man i didn't see this latest comment. As long as you didn't get the magnetic source too close to the wheel your okay. It would depend on the strength of the magnet that would determine how close is too close. I'm pretty sure unless you laid the socket right on top of the tone wheel itself its okay.
Post link for tool please
@@luthergrant7336 Hi why cant a second hand one be pressed on with sleeve loctite in the correct position , we have a near new engine that fell off a pallet when shifted which broke cover and damaged tone wheel ,we are in new zealand so real hard to get parts for american cars ,but we have second hand ones off wrecked engines .
Interesting. Rather than spending $300 on that thing, is there any reason I can't just compare the questionable cam to a known good cam? Or is the amount the tone wheel likely to be off too small to just compare visually?
Yes if your proficient with a scope then you can scope the cams and see the one where the wheel has shifted. There are times when it shifts and almost appears normal or within spec we'll call it. But it will not complete the cam/crank relearn. Overall the tool is a good visual verification that the wheel has in fact moved. Particularly if you have employee(s) that aren't good with a scope. Ive done hundreds of cams, timing chains, phasers etc on the 3.6 its become muscle memory by now but my help not so much. I still require them to perform the visual verification test like the factory manual says. Except I could never find any info on how to use the tool. That's why i created this video.
@@luthergrant7336 Understood. We solely service the pentastar, but we havent encountered any tone wheel shift yet. My guess is that when we do, we’ll just bundle it with a rocker arm replacement and replace the cam.
We did have a super weird one come in last month. Get this; p0016 and p0017. Cam slow response both cams rear bank (b1). Dealer had it, did cam sensor, cams, hardwired the sensor and phaser to the ecu, replaced the ecu. opened a case, and star told them to replace THE ENGINE with a Jasper. That didnt get it either. We got it, and verified it, but were forced to tell the customer to just live with it. I gave the custy a scanner so at least they could monitor the engine for new codes.
That job sticks in my craw because we couldnt get it. Pisses me off, frankly. And thoughts? Exhaust restriction? Maybe those noise supressors that bolt to the head? It wasnt chain or tension. It keeps me up at night, that engine.
@@promastersonly1419 Hi Kip, are you saying that the dealer couldn't figure it out, that they replaced the motor, and ECU and it still gives P0016 an P0017? Did they swap anything from the old motor like cam sensors or oil control valve actuators? I'm having a similar strange situation. I'm still hunting my problem down. Thanks for all you do for the community.
@@vetsen That particular job was a bust. The dealer had it for TWO YEARS before we got it. The replaced everything. Dedicated wiring for the cam sensors. They put in a new PCM. Finally they threw a Jasper at it. Didnt fix it. Star case opened, engineers looked at it. Finally they threw an entire SECOND Jasper at it on their dime! Then they kicked the customer out. In the end, I got the customer a decent scanner so they could reset the code and they are still driving it.
David Pike over at Motorcity Mechanic has a new video on a related code that might help you. Go check it out.
Would be nice to have a 3D model of this tool
I'm sure it would but I don't think Chrysler or anyone that paid full price for it would want you to have it.
Hola buenas noches cónsul soy de chile Dodge puede conseguir es a herramienta
If you decide to buy this tool please do yourself a favor And spend the extra money and buy the factory Miller tool and don't buy the aftermarket option because I did spend the extra $50 dollars because I have seen The aftermarket tool and The markings are different and confusing 😮 And buy the Way The aftermarket tool is about 250 and the original one is about $300 not cheap 😮😮😮
Hi! Can you send me a copy of that tool marker on paper to make it! I will pay you please let me know thanks!
And tick
I have the gages only to Mexico.
my friend i need this tool who sell
Mopar dealer
No way I'm paying 300$ for this " tool". It's a friking 2 inch aluminum template
No problem. I'll buy it and send the specs to my Taiwan contacts. We'll make thousands of these and sell them for $100 on Amazon soon
@@ivanmoreno3918 am waiting
Ever heard of copyright laws....good luck@@ivanmoreno3918
$145 from Mopar