Just entering the hobby and learning all I can from different places, using Unitrack for my first layout and with your video you just saved me a lot of overwork and money. Thank you.
Mike, thank you for posting another excellent video and a nice summary on feeders. I have more than 800 sections of Kato Unitrack most of which has been used on two home railroads. In my experience the joiner feeders have been the "weakest" link in the Kato Unitrack product line because the feeder wire to the joiner comes loose. For that reason, I prefer the feeder track version. I noticed with the double track that the feeder wires are such that if used as they are sold result in "current flowing with the same polarity" in each of the two sets of rails. I cut the blue and white wires and respliced them blue to white and white to blue to overcome what was a problem on my home railroad. Thanks again.
Mike, thanks for doing this. When putting modules together into a layout, the electrical connections are our number 1 issue, and hopefully this helps with that.BTW, you did leave out one piece I find myself using a lot - the 24-827 extension cord. In the T-TRAK world, we cut the end off and use the 3-way plug as the tap into our track bus. Cuts down on the number of splices you need to make into the bus itself. And congratulations on the pronunciation of Kato - wasn't sure you were ever going to make that transition.
You mean kAto?! LOL I left out that as this is not a wiring video but simply a joiner and feeder video. It could have gone on forever. Thanks Terry , Mike
great idea with insulated joiners, even with a simple DC layout as it allows one to establish "electrical blocks" (way old school) using toggles to turn power on/off or to assign to a 2nd controller/power source. This allows one to keep more than one engine on the track without them all running at the same time and not having to upgrade to DCC. Toggle switches and some joiners are WAY cheaper than changing out to DCC!!! Just insulate the short engine storage tracks and park em and shut off the power via the panel toggle switch when not using that particular engine/locomotive.
Well. There's one thing I did that you say don't do. Often I've had problems with kato #6 turnouts loosing power on the point rail killing track power behind the turnout. I took one turnout apart to see if I could fix this. The turnout has a single pole double throw switch on it that selects what track behind the frog will get power from the points. Knowing this I did what you say is a no go. And wired feeders behind the turnout without using insulated jointers at all. This in turn feeds the right power to the point rails from the frog end of the turnout without a problem. Just be sure your turnout is lined correctly or you can have a short if your coming in on the frog side of a closed turnout. Grate videos tho and thanks for sharing your knowledge of the hobby.
Hi Mike, an excellent and informative video as always. I was wondering how often you have to feed the Kato track to have reliable and consistent current to the rails? How far apart are the feeders on your layout? Also, would you recommend or deem it necessary to solder the track sections together? I've heard varying opinions on this, based on your experience, what's your opinion on this? Thanks, Frank.
I enjoy these videos. Thank you! I know this is 6 years old, but how do you feed a point end of a turnout insulated from the frog end of an attached turnout? Can you cut off half of a rail joiner on a powered joiner? Can I drill through the turnout and solder to the outside of the rails? I’m a yard with multiple joined turnouts, this could be difficult.
What kind of feeders or wire "system" would be the most elegant solution to get NCE DCC connected to a Kato track? I would like to avoid cutting wires.
Hello Mike, how do you wire up the kato double cross track? Your very informative and it is great to watch you and the other guys about railroading. Happy New Year to you and your family.
It needs to be fed from all for tracks and is insulated right down the center. It only requires one turnout control to throw all switches. Thanks , Mike
I think I understand about feeding the turnouts from the points end and using insulated joiners at the other end to prevent shorts, but how do I wire a yard ladder?
Mike: If I have a large layout run (20 feet) and want to use multiple feeders (track) so not to lose power. Can and HOW would I use the 24-827 3 way extension cord ? AND can I use more than 1 of these AND did you use them. Thanks, Len H
The three way connects to the power pack and then use 3 24-818 feeder joiners from it to the track or multiple 3 ways can be attached to the first one. I used the 818's and just soldered them to my Bus Line. Thanks , Mike
Hi Mike. What tracks do I use in conjunction with Kato #6 turnouts in order to have a 3 siding situation with bumpers at the end. I'd like to keep the 3 tracks as close as possible. Thanks!
@@N-Scale Hi Mike. The best way I can show you is if you're are familiar with the Kato Unitrack DCC N scale wunderland layout. In the layout they have 2 sets of sidings. 1 has 2 tracks...and the other has 3. I'd like to use just #6 turnouts instead of #4's. Hopefully you can help me keep the space between the tracks as close as possible. Thanks so much for your quick reply. Incidentally, if you have any suggestions that you might have with this layout, please don't hesitate to lay them on me! Thanks again!
@@markgershman1563 I do not know the layout and I asked you to email the shop. Here is what I know about turnout spacing. www.katousa.com/PDF/plans/N-plan-6-turnouts.pdf
@@N-Scale thanks. Just watched your "buying /storage" vid. Do you store your locomotive's the same way you store your rolling stock? I have the exact stack of drawers and I'd like to store my locomotives there as well. I know what you mean about about the car length and turn radius - running Kato Pullman's on a radius that would have you shaking your head. But it's just for the hollow door Christmas layout...
Mike ( kato n gauge) if I put a feeder kato 24-818 on the next section of a track after Insulating kato 20-816 the turnout track can I put all my feeder end In a kato 24-827 and then the last feeder wire into my dc / dcc power supply
I just make them myself. Take the unijoiner and pop the little joiner out. Solder a wire to the bottom and pop it back in. Cost is practically nothing. Kato needs feeders around every turnout or crossover which increases the cost up to $20 per turnout.
This is what I do! I insulate all four rails leaving a turnout and RE-FEED the tracks beyond. The only exception is yard ladders or other connected turnouts
Just entering the hobby and learning all I can from different places, using Unitrack for my first layout and with your video you just saved me a lot of overwork and money. Thank you.
Thanks and check out the How To's on our website as well.
www.fiferhobby.com/how-to/
Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for posting this video, very helpful. You're a great ambassador to a great hobby!!
Thanks Michael , I hope it helps a few people.
Mike
Thanks Mike just getting back in my trains your site is great
Mike, thank you for posting another excellent video and a nice summary on feeders. I have more than 800 sections of Kato Unitrack most of which has been used on two home railroads. In my experience the joiner feeders have been the "weakest" link in the Kato Unitrack product line because the feeder wire to the joiner comes loose. For that reason, I prefer the feeder track version. I noticed with the double track that the feeder wires are such that if used as they are sold result in "current flowing with the same polarity" in each of the two sets of rails. I cut the blue and white wires and respliced them blue to white and white to blue to overcome what was a problem on my home railroad. Thanks again.
Thanks Roger, I have had a different experience with the feeders. Of all the ones I have used , I have only had one wire break off.
Thanks , Mike
That was my experience as well. A few times the metal part of the joiner became mis aligned which was a problem.
Great one Mike. Thank you for the information
Thank You.
Mike
hi Mike.. another great info vid... i'm sure this will be very helpful to those using this type of track.. thanks for sharing... vinny
Thanks so much Vinny, Mike
Mike, thanks for doing this. When putting modules together into a layout, the electrical connections are our number 1 issue, and hopefully this helps with that.BTW, you did leave out one piece I find myself using a lot - the 24-827 extension cord. In the T-TRAK world, we cut the end off and use the 3-way plug as the tap into our track bus. Cuts down on the number of splices you need to make into the bus itself. And congratulations on the pronunciation of Kato - wasn't sure you were ever going to make that transition.
You mean kAto?! LOL I left out that as this is not a wiring video but simply a joiner and feeder video. It could have gone on forever.
Thanks Terry , Mike
Thanks Mike Great informative video!
No Problem !!!
great idea with insulated joiners, even with a simple DC layout as it allows one to establish "electrical blocks" (way old school) using toggles to turn power on/off or to assign to a 2nd controller/power source. This allows one to keep more than one engine on the track without them all running at the same time and not having to upgrade to DCC. Toggle switches and some joiners are WAY cheaper than changing out to DCC!!! Just insulate the short engine storage tracks and park em and shut off the power via the panel toggle switch when not using that particular engine/locomotive.
Thanks Mike good info as usual.
Thanks so much Craig. Glad to have you follow along.
Mike
Thank you, this was very helpful!
Thanks Sam , Mike
Good video. I did not know there are multiple options.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
You are more than welcome. Check out our How-To page.
www.fiferhobby.com/how-to/
Great vid...happy model rail railroading..zane
Thanks for coming by Zane, Mike
Good intel here👍👍👍😎
Thanks , Mike
Well. There's one thing I did that you say don't do. Often I've had problems with kato #6 turnouts loosing power on the point rail killing track power behind the turnout. I took one turnout apart to see if I could fix this. The turnout has a single pole double throw switch on it that selects what track behind the frog will get power from the points. Knowing this I did what you say is a no go. And wired feeders behind the turnout without using insulated jointers at all. This in turn feeds the right power to the point rails from the frog end of the turnout without a problem. Just be sure your turnout is lined correctly or you can have a short if your coming in on the frog side of a closed turnout. Grate videos tho and thanks for sharing your knowledge of the hobby.
Thanks Nick , Mike
Jüst subscribed. We use Kato Easy track for our programming track. ~Brad
Thanks for the sub. Kato is Unitrack and Bachmann is EZ Track
@@N-Scale Of course. thats right. I have the Unitrack.
@@ItsAboutTimeNow That is very cool.
Thanks , Mike
Thanks for all your help. One question nobody seems to answer in all the feeder wire videos is, What guage wire is sufficient for N scale?
Kato feeders are 24 but almost anything is OK. I prefered smaller when I was using Peco track.
Hi Mike, an excellent and informative video as always. I was wondering how often you have to feed the Kato track to have reliable and consistent current to the rails? How far apart are the feeders on your layout? Also, would you recommend or deem it necessary to solder the track sections together? I've heard varying opinions on this, based on your experience, what's your opinion on this?
Thanks,
Frank.
I put feeders 8 to 10 ft apart and only recommend soldering if a joint fails AFTER installation.
Thanks , Mike
Does anyone know if these feeders will successfully feed power to a kato double crossover for the second loop?
I enjoy these videos. Thank you! I know this is 6 years old, but how do you feed a point end of a turnout insulated from the frog end of an attached turnout?
Can you cut off half of a rail joiner on a powered joiner? Can I drill through the turnout and solder to the outside of the rails?
I’m a yard with multiple joined turnouts, this could be difficult.
This is only a basic suggestion. A yard ladder needs NO insulators.
Thanks , Mike
What kind of feeders or wire "system" would be the most elegant solution to get NCE DCC connected to a Kato track? I would like to avoid cutting wires.
Cutting wire is the most effective.
Thanks , Mike
Hello Mike, how do you wire up the kato double cross track? Your very informative and it is great to watch you and the other guys about railroading. Happy New Year to you and your family.
It needs to be fed from all for tracks and is insulated right down the center. It only requires one turnout control to throw all switches.
Thanks , Mike
Mike Fifer Thank you
No Problem. Glad to help.
Mike
I think I understand about feeding the turnouts from the points end and using insulated joiners at the other end to prevent shorts, but how do I wire a yard ladder?
In a yard ladder this obviously would not apply .
Mike
Mike: If I have a large layout run (20 feet) and want to use multiple feeders (track) so not to lose power. Can and HOW would I use the 24-827 3 way extension cord ? AND can I use more than 1 of these AND did you use them. Thanks, Len H
The three way connects to the power pack and then use 3 24-818 feeder joiners from it to the track or multiple 3 ways can be attached to the first one. I used the 818's and just soldered them to my Bus Line.
Thanks , Mike
ive used both 818 and 041 successfully
Me too , Thanks , Mike
Hi Mike. What tracks do I use in conjunction with Kato #6 turnouts in order to have a 3 siding situation with bumpers at the end. I'd like to keep the 3 tracks as close as possible. Thanks!
I am not sure what you are asking and can you email the shop?
@@N-Scale Hi Mike. The best way I can show you is if you're are familiar with the Kato Unitrack DCC N scale wunderland layout. In the layout they have 2 sets of sidings.
1 has 2 tracks...and the other has 3. I'd like to use just #6 turnouts instead of #4's. Hopefully you can help me keep the space between the tracks as close as possible.
Thanks so much for your quick reply. Incidentally, if you have any suggestions that you might have with this layout, please don't hesitate to lay them on me! Thanks again!
@@markgershman1563 I do not know the layout and I asked you to email the shop. Here is what I know about turnout spacing.
www.katousa.com/PDF/plans/N-plan-6-turnouts.pdf
Hi Mike. Could you tell me how far between feeders do I have to space if my lay is an L shape...3' x 6' and 3' x 5' for the small L. Thanks
It is not an exact figure as you should have some sort of blocks , regardless, But every 10' should be totally sufficient.
Mike
Hi Mike -
I've got a 35' DC layout (Kato)with 1 feeder.. Do additional feeders improve performance?
It may help to put one or two half or three quarters apart. If you have no dead spots or power loss it will not mater.
Mike
@@N-Scale thanks. Just watched your "buying /storage" vid. Do you store your locomotive's the same way you store your rolling stock? I have the exact stack of drawers and I'd like to store my locomotives there as well. I know what you mean about about the car length and turn radius - running Kato Pullman's on a radius that would have you shaking your head. But it's just for the hollow door Christmas layout...
@@charlesmitchell487 Some there and some in the display cases.
Mike
Mike Al here, leant to feed power to my single track layout. In more then one spot. Can I do that similar to DCC buss? Thanks Al
Sure or individually.
Thanks , Mike
Mike ( kato n gauge) if I put a feeder kato 24-818 on the next section of a track after Insulating kato 20-816 the turnout track can I put all my feeder end In a kato 24-827 and then the last feeder wire into my dc / dcc power supply
Yes .
Mike
Thanks
Joe
Great video helped me out . One question how many feet or track section would u go then add a power feeder? Is about every 30-36” a good distance?
I ( on average ) put one about every 10ft.
Mike
I just make them myself. Take the unijoiner and pop the little joiner out. Solder a wire to the bottom and pop it back in. Cost is practically nothing. Kato needs feeders around every turnout or crossover which increases the cost up to $20 per turnout.
OK I have a how to on that . www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-make-your-own-kato-uni-joiner-power-feeders/
@@N-Scale Perfect!
Mike do you need 2 power packs for a double loop?
Yes. If you do not , the trains on both loops would have to run the exact same way all the time.
Mike
thank you for replying
Where is the video on how to make your own
Please tell me HOW to attach the 843 to the power pack?
The two spade connectors go under the two screws on your power pack.
Mike
The 843 is not made for the Kato pack. Your feeder wire plug plugs right into the back of the Kato Pack.
Mike
fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=12866
mike at 742 this is what i am asking about with insulated joiners
This is what I do! I insulate all four rails leaving a turnout and RE-FEED the tracks beyond. The only exception is yard ladders or other connected turnouts