Interesting philosophy concerning trains in general, and the approach taken towards a build, this coming from a complete non-railroader (myself) whose only interest in searching these sites is for diorama building tips in general. I appreciate this clip, because the builder neither overly vindicates nor excessively defends his stance, but is satisfied with his approach, and is not afraid to discuss it. Along with this gentleman's technical know-how, his demeanor is commendable. I also like the Christmas ornament; whimsical and amusing.
G'day HSJFender, You mentioned using DCC to run each oval in opposite directions. You can just use a second throttle, since Kato switches & crossovers are insulated [unlike Bachmann]. The only thing you have to do when running the loco from one oval to the other, is to make sure one throttle[either one] is set to Zero before throwing the switches. After the loco has passed the switch you can stop it, throw the switch and then power it from the throttle connected to that loop. So; when the crossover is set to 'Cross' use one throttle as you are now. When the crossover is set the 'Straight', use both throttles independently; in any direction. If your budget stretches to DCC, this is of course the better option. Cheers Kram
Thanks for providing 10X more info than KATO itself on how to use their turnouts while running analog. KATO is a terrific product, no doubt, but they have some sort of mystical, top-secret philosophy about giving their customers even the most basic info on the how and why on using their products. Thanks again for a really useful article and (giant .mov file) video.
I just started N this Christmas and KATO was recommended to me. I thought I hated this type track because I do in HO/On30. Always preferred traditional Atlas, their flex and switches. But luuuuuv this KATO. However I had no clue about this built in blocking! How wonderful. I only have straight and 3 different radius curves for ovals. I was building a pieces to order list to include insulated rail joiners. Just threw it away and starting over track pieces only. So thank you again for sharing this.
Thank you for the comment. Now if you have noticed I don't have that layout anymore. I have the same track plan somewhat. I've went smaller. The layout I have now is only a five foot long and 30 inches wide. I really don't know the radius because I've never been good with that. The cross over switch is handled by one switch. I am running a NCE Power Cab. It is DCC. But the switches are still analog. The plan can be found on the kato site.
a good way to find track radius is you take a long ruler, or measuring tape and you measure from track center of one side to the other with the measuring tape making the 180 degree curve look like a half circle and how ever long it is in inches from track center to track center you take that measurement and divide by 2 so my track width in a 180 degree turn is 22 inches from track centers then that means my track radius is 11 inches
Thanks just got my first Kato kit salt lake route and now know how to wire it from your video. Brought the timer to do the base board today.. So hope to have the layout ready to test soon.
Thankyou for your efforts... I particularly appreciated the explanation asto how the block system is effectively defined by the location of the various switches in your layout. and can be manipulated by the operation of those switches... Don't feel that you need to explain or justify the appearance of your layout.. it's yours and I'm sure that it is the way it is because that's how you want it... and if you want to change it.. then that's upto you too... if others can't cope then that's their problem... screw'em!.. I like the christmas tree too by the way... keepon rollin' matey!
I don't care much about scenery either; for me, it's all about the trains. My layout models the desert or the plains; plain brownish tan, with a little green thrown in for grass, and an occasional cactus or tree. Everything else is track & trains.
Good video. Very informative. I am just getting back into the hobby after 25 year absence. I am currently using atlas snap track, as I can use it to work out what final design I want ( and find a suitable place to keep it), but seeing this Kato stuff really makes me think it might be worth the expense in the long run. How do you uncouple your rolling stock, by hand?
Nice set up you got there. I started DC, but I wouldn't take anything for DCC now. It's not restrictive at all and you can do anything you want. Also, prices have really dropped on a lot of decoders. You can get the NCE Power Cab DCC starter set for $150.00 and that's all you need. You would be good to go.
Jae-Yae/Japan Evelyn I love it still got my trains and track, had to make room for other things. I’m planning on putting up a single loop of O Gauge track on the ceiling wall. I like the LIONEL MTH Trains better
So you still recommend Kato and that’s why I love Kato so I can set it up on my floor and just run trains with out needing a bored and crazy wire but I have LGB black widow and used to run it on my ceiling as well and I have many other trains but Kato is just so simple
And I don’t have the time to build somthing sophisticated so I love Kato and also I used to have a 6000 ft.² model rail rode in my uncles backyard but he passed and my grandfather me simply started to sell and make our Collection smaller but I just love Kato for the fact that it’s plug and go like you said no need to wire like Atlas track but some day I would love to have a board with some Atlas track and all
Like your approach;these are toys. Scenicing not my thing either. Exploring 90degree crossing w 8.5 radius, aware plans show 9.5 Think 8.5 could also work?
There are two sets of KATO switches the cheaper on 20-201 & 20-202 these relay power in direction the switch is set. This track is also good example what happens when you run DCC on Power routed switches you will have the SAME ISSUE. Kato then has 3 other switches 20-220, 20-221, 20-222 - These have FROG built in and 2 sets of screws under neath to set to Power to all track or Power Routed. These 3 switch are best for DCC. The cheaper ones you will need to wire all blocks behind the switches.
hsjfender Yes it's an Excellent example of POWER ROUTING, normally you don't want power routing on DCC since you want all track to be live. So I recommend to anyone whom things or knows they going to run DCC don't use KATO 20-202 or 20-203 (#6 Turnouts) buy the more expensive switches 20-220 and 20-221(#4 Turnouts).
Good Video a little Aged but still Good.. Like to see what you have Know.! my Trains all run D.C. Analog only to me you can still have fun running Trains this way with out the Bullshit hairiness of DCC and it's Confusions..
I am new to N scale building but I already have three Arnold engines and two Minitrix engines from the early 70s nut I dont have any track or a controller and I am thinking that I would like to use KATO track. What design would you recommend for an area that is a tabletop of 4'6" by 2'8"? I would like to have two trains running with a feeder like you have. What sets would I buy to build it?
Do you know if the switches work the same in HO? If I wanted to hook up a DCC system with this track could I do it the same way you are? Keeping the switches analog but have DCC power the trains.
Will anyone please just show how to wire the magnetic coil of these things? I have just bought some with no instructions, and have no idea what to do with them. I'm not worried about DCC, I'm not worried about power routing. I can figure all that out. But where do I attach the wires? Do I connect them to the screws for curved and straight sides? How do you do that? What is the frog screw for? Are these screws just there to act as option selectors, kind of like trip switches on a circuit board? I have not yet seen a video or an image of the underside of these things with the selector wires attached. All wiring videos seem to be talking about power routing, but none explain the basics of how to power the point motor. Can anyone please help?
You have probably gotten your answer by now, but here it is for anyone looking at this for the first time: Sounds like you have the Kato Number 4 turnouts. Those screws you mention are for selecting whether it will be a power routing switch or not. In power routing mode, they will route power only to the track selected, leaving the non-selected track without power. Very handy in yard or terminal settings. In non-power routing mode, both tracks will be powered all the time. This mode is especially useful if you run DCC. As an aside, the Kato Number 6 turnouts do not have this option. They are always in power routing mode.
metra train #419 Go to anybody that sells Kato n scale track and you can find the turnouts. Now if you have looked at my TH-cam page lately you see I do not have that layout anymore. I now have a much smaller set and I'm using Bachmann ez track. No turnouts. Don't like them they are a headache.
![จบจนได้ ! | Black Myth: Wukong #007 [ตอนจบ?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DSqvWndF0sw/mqdefault.jpg)
Interesting philosophy concerning trains in general, and the approach taken towards a build, this coming from a complete non-railroader (myself) whose only interest in searching these sites is for diorama building tips in general. I appreciate this clip, because the builder neither overly vindicates nor excessively defends his stance, but is satisfied with his approach, and is not afraid to discuss it. Along with this gentleman's technical know-how, his demeanor is commendable. I also like the Christmas ornament; whimsical and amusing.
G'day HSJFender,
You mentioned using DCC to run each oval in opposite directions. You can just use a second throttle, since Kato switches & crossovers are insulated [unlike Bachmann].
The only thing you have to do when running the loco from one oval to the other, is to make sure one throttle[either one] is set to Zero before throwing the switches. After the loco has passed the switch you can stop it, throw the switch and then power it from the throttle connected to that loop.
So; when the crossover is set to 'Cross' use one throttle as you are now. When the crossover is set the 'Straight', use both throttles independently; in any direction.
If your budget stretches to DCC, this is of course the better option.
Cheers
Kram
Thanks for providing 10X more info than KATO itself on how to use their turnouts while running analog. KATO is a terrific product, no doubt, but they have some sort of mystical, top-secret philosophy about giving their customers even the most basic info on the how and why on using their products. Thanks again for a really useful article and (giant .mov file) video.
Thanks for explaining this! I won’t have to worry about blocking
I just started N this Christmas and KATO was recommended to me. I thought I hated this type track because I do in HO/On30. Always preferred traditional Atlas, their flex and switches. But luuuuuv this KATO. However I had no clue about this built in blocking! How wonderful. I only have straight and 3 different radius curves for ovals. I was building a pieces to order list to include insulated rail joiners. Just threw it away and starting over track pieces only. So thank you again for sharing this.
Thank you for the comment. Now if you have noticed I don't have that layout anymore. I have the same track plan somewhat. I've went smaller. The layout I have now is only a five foot long and 30 inches wide. I really don't know the radius because I've never been good with that. The cross over switch is handled by one switch. I am running a NCE Power Cab. It is DCC. But the switches are still analog. The plan can be found on the kato site.
a good way to find track radius is you take a long ruler, or measuring tape and you measure from track center of one side to the other with the measuring tape making the 180 degree curve look like a half circle and how ever long it is in inches from track center to track center you take that measurement and divide by 2 so my track width in a 180 degree turn is 22 inches from track centers then that means my track radius is 11 inches
power routing switches! Love them!!
Great video. Subscribed
George 😊
Thanks just got my first Kato kit salt lake route and now know how to wire it from your video. Brought the timer to do the base board today.. So hope to have the layout ready to test soon.
Thanks for a great explanation of Kato track and switches!
Thankyou for your efforts... I particularly appreciated the explanation asto how the block system is effectively defined by the location of the various switches in your layout. and can be manipulated by the operation of those switches... Don't feel that you need to explain or justify the appearance of your layout.. it's yours and I'm sure that it is the way it is because that's how you want it... and if you want to change it.. then that's upto you too... if others can't cope then that's their problem... screw'em!.. I like the christmas tree too by the way... keepon rollin' matey!
Thank you for the comment, but that layout has been gone for a long time.
I don't care much about scenery either; for me, it's all about the trains. My layout models the desert or the plains; plain brownish tan, with a little green thrown in for grass, and an occasional cactus or tree. Everything else is track & trains.
D.E.B. B I prefer urban so high rises and stuff
Thanks for the useful info … I also collect the O Gauge - but running N due to space. Do you still have all the Kato track lying around ??
Thanks. You also answered my question. Just getting back into the hobby again.
Good video. Very informative.
I am just getting back into the hobby after 25 year absence. I am currently using atlas snap track, as I can use it to work out what final design I want ( and find a suitable place to keep it), but seeing this Kato stuff really makes me think it might be worth the expense in the long run.
How do you uncouple your rolling stock, by hand?
An auto reversing trolley would be cool in the city you have there.
Nice set up you got there. I started DC, but I wouldn't take anything for DCC now. It's not restrictive at all and you can do anything you want. Also, prices have really dropped on a lot of decoders. You can get the NCE Power Cab DCC starter set for $150.00 and that's all you need. You would be good to go.
Thanks for the comment, But that layout set up as you said has been long gone for several years now. I don't have that layout no more.
Thanks for the comment. I don't have that layout anymore. I do a NCE Power Cab. I have gone over to O gauge trains now.
On my way to work but love your video I’m glad you were able to show people how it works
Thanks for the comment, but I don’t have it no more
You don’t have Kato no more? You don’t like it or something?
Jae-Yae/Japan Evelyn I love it still got my trains and track, had to make room for other things. I’m planning on putting up a single loop of O Gauge track on the ceiling wall. I like the LIONEL MTH Trains better
So you still recommend Kato and that’s why I love Kato so I can set it up on my floor and just run trains with out needing a bored and crazy wire but I have LGB black widow and used to run it on my ceiling as well and I have many other trains but Kato is just so simple
And I don’t have the time to build somthing sophisticated so I love Kato and also I used to have a 6000 ft.² model rail rode in my uncles backyard but he passed and my grandfather me simply started to sell and make our Collection smaller but I just love Kato for the fact that it’s plug and go like you said no need to wire like Atlas track but some day I would love to have a board with some Atlas track and all
thanks for sharing... great video.. keep up the great work and the video's coming...
Like your approach;these are toys. Scenicing not my thing either. Exploring 90degree crossing w 8.5 radius, aware plans show 9.5 Think 8.5 could also work?
I've never had a bauchman crossover so I can't answer that. But the Kato crossover works very nice.
nice video presentation!
@d3lp0rto I don't use wd40 to lube my trains. I put it on my old game consoles like my Sega Genesis to make it look shiny and new looking again
"The Kato Switch Explained" -
Kato switches (turnouts), like Peco, are "power routing". Other brands (Bachmann, Atlas, etc.) aren't.
KATO unitrack is really good quality track compared to Bachmann E-Z Track
im working on a n scale 4x8 layout.
Any suggestions
????
thanks that broke it down a little better for me. now what type of traccs do you recommend to use? ex e-z tracc, regular etc
THANK YOU FOR EXPLAINING THIS
Kato's are toy trains??.I guess I should trade in my Kato's for Thomas-The-Train and Friends if that's the case...HAHA!!.
Can you do video on how to use kato trains
No I don't have an overhead view of that layout. First began that layout is gone.
There are two sets of KATO switches the cheaper on 20-201 & 20-202 these relay power in direction the switch is set. This track is also good example what happens when you run DCC on Power routed switches you will have the SAME ISSUE.
Kato then has 3 other switches 20-220, 20-221, 20-222 - These have FROG built in and 2 sets of screws under neath to set to Power to all track or Power Routed. These 3 switch are best for DCC. The cheaper ones you will need to wire all blocks behind the switches.
It still works like it supposed to under DCC. It turns of that track like it supposed to
Now I don't have that layout anymore. You might have noticed
hsjfender Yes it's an Excellent example of POWER ROUTING, normally you don't want power routing on DCC since you want all track to be live. So I recommend to anyone whom things or knows they going to run DCC don't use KATO 20-202 or 20-203 (#6 Turnouts) buy the more expensive switches 20-220 and 20-221(#4 Turnouts).
I just started a few months ago, my track is Kato similar to yours, like to know more about wireing.
I really can't tell you it was just two wires for the whole layout. But that has been a few years back and that layout is long gone.
Are you doing all that with only one power source ?
@murcopet It would be difficult to replace the points itself unless it was a hand built turnout. You wold be better to replace the switch itself.
It should be the same in HO using the HO Kato Unitrack. I Can't say for the Bachmann Track. It looks like that is the track your using.
just 1 transformer for all the tracks?
Good Video a little Aged but still Good.. Like to see what you have Know.! my Trains all run D.C. Analog only to me you can still have fun running Trains this way with out the Bullshit hairiness of DCC and it's Confusions..
I am new to N scale building but I already have three Arnold engines and two Minitrix engines from the early 70s nut I dont have any track or a controller and I am thinking that I would like to use KATO track. What design would you recommend for an area that is a tabletop of 4'6" by 2'8"? I would like to have two trains running with a feeder like you have. What sets would I buy to build it?
Thank you so much
@lionellance Thanks for the comment
Hi, I'm like you just want to play with the trains could care less about the landscaping .
Peco tracks have the same feature
Keep having fun,...
That would be nice, but the truth is I don't have a model railroad no more.
And if you go to rgtrainlayouts you will see it there. Just search for Kato N Scale Unitrack Layout In Action.
Do you know if the switches work the same in HO? If I wanted to hook up a DCC system with this track could I do it the same way you are? Keeping the switches analog but have DCC power the trains.
@murcopet I really don't have an answer to the problem. Have you tried another switch lever?
I am using Bachmann track now but i'm switching over to kato track.
HOscaleRR I
Will anyone please just show how to wire the magnetic coil of these things? I have just bought some with no instructions, and have no idea what to do with them. I'm not worried about DCC, I'm not worried about power routing. I can figure all that out. But where do I attach the wires? Do I connect them to the screws for curved and straight sides? How do you do that? What is the frog screw for? Are these screws just there to act as option selectors, kind of like trip switches on a circuit board? I have not yet seen a video or an image of the underside of these things with the selector wires attached. All wiring videos seem to be talking about power routing, but none explain the basics of how to power the point motor. Can anyone please help?
www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-make-kato-turnout-control-switches/ hopefully this web site can help
You have probably gotten your answer by now, but here it is for anyone looking at this for the first time:
Sounds like you have the Kato Number 4 turnouts. Those screws you mention are for selecting whether it will be a power routing switch or not. In power routing mode, they will route power only to the track selected, leaving the non-selected track without power. Very handy in yard or terminal settings. In non-power routing mode, both tracks will be powered all the time. This mode is especially useful if you run DCC.
As an aside, the Kato Number 6 turnouts do not have this option. They are always in power routing mode.
how did you get the double crossover to get power with only one power box?
Burlingtonmodels With a bus wire an feeders on each side. Now don’t have this layout anymore. Been gone for a long time.
Thank you
how do you like the CROSSOVER'S are they better then BAUCHMAN CROSSOVER ?
6' 19" no such thing.... it is 7' 7" you mean right?
do you have a overhead view of track layout?
If i have 2 controllers can i run 2 trains in opposite directions using the double crossover?
Yes
you pronounced KATO wrong
I'm japanese, and it sounds like Ko-TOE (not koo-toe)
I like the toy look to play hard and have lots of fun.
Thanks for the comment, but that layout is long gone. I've moved on to something better which is O gauge.
Where do u get the tracks that switch
metra train #419
Go to anybody that sells Kato n scale track and you can find the turnouts. Now if you have looked at my TH-cam page lately you see I do not have that layout anymore. I now have a much smaller set and I'm using Bachmann ez track. No turnouts. Don't like them they are a headache.
No. And now I don't even have that little layout no more
you CAN do the exact same thing with Ez track, i suggest getting the ez command dcc system as well. 1 wire for your entire layout - and its dcc
@igc4lifecuzz Kato