I'll drop a quick tip that will help in the diagnostic of such issue. Simple, fast, cheap and easy, just as the Dr. order! Manually pump fuel, with the pear shape pump that stand beside the fuel filter... Actuate the pump until filling up the circuit. Which you'll notice because the pump get's rigid due to internal pressure. THAT'S IT! If the start issues "suddenly" disappear or change their behavior. You know where you stand. No need to wait 5 years! ;-) BTW it's worth mention. Change your fuel filter regularly. When done use, the same pump to prime the circuit. Cheers
Thanx for the tip. Sounds logical. Myself and all the other "experts" apparently didn't recognize the issue starring us in the face. The primer bulb never really got hard. That should have been a dead give away.
What does this rest prove mate ? My priming bulb is hard at starting but there are large air bubbles into the high pressure pump like this chap has ,,is it my low pressure pump / sender I the tank ? Thanks George
Hey, just a quick update. The fix in my video lasted about about a year or so, then the van started acting up again like before. long crank time before starting. Resolved again by replacing the fuel fillter. Starts immediately. I must have gotten some gunk in the tank. Because the van has no fuel pump in the tank and has to suck the fuel from the injector pump - its easy for any little obstruction to cause problems.
the fault with the sender unit everyone misses .....on common rail systems ford and renault peugeot vauxhall ect the system needs to be air free for it to work correctly . the return line in the in tank sender has a valve on or in the end (depending on manufacturer) usually rubber that opens when fuel is flowing back to the tank but closes when fuel stops flowing . this is to prevent the system draining back to the tank... after a few years of use the rubber valve fails allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank . air gets into the system causing long crank and often no start depending how bad the rubber valve is perished
Interesting. I completely discarded the return line as a possible problem because I thought the excess fuel went back into the tank. Now I see I was incorrect. The return fuel is actually channeled back to the input side (via sender unit), only drawing fuel from the tank to make up for what was actually spent running the engine. Explains why there is only a very small hole in the sender unit for drawing fuel from the tank because its already getting fuel from the return line. Also with such a small inlet in the sender, particulate matter can easily clog things up. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for your comment. I used to know how to fix my 67 chevy pickup but these new cars with ecu, sensors and electronic stuff, I´m kind of lost. And when the professionals fail you, what then? I´m just grateful for the youtube video I saw that helped me fix the problem.
@@davidgonsalves7094 new cars/vans are all the same. A symptom could be caused by multiple things. And when the mechanic sucks through his teeth you know your in trouble 😁
Good effort mate, not nice to hear you had to replace all that stuff to find out eventually but good effort for grizzing it out and getting to the bottom of the problem pal 👍
Thanks for your comment. I must admit it wasn´t the best made video, but after so many years of headaches with this, I thought the info could be useful.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very helpful. Ive had problems with my van last few days, so I think next step is to do what you said 👍 Think it's the fuel pump
Here´s the link to the video that saved my butt: DrDansBiodiesel th-cam.com/video/yRMTEAKsScE/w-d-xo.html . Maybe your local garage has something to test for restrictions in the fuel line before replacing the pump. My Opel Vivaro 1.9 2005 doesn´t have a fuel pump in the tank - injecter pump just sucks fuel from the tank. Good luck.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very useful, because I am sure I have the exact same problem! Also David any advice on where to get a video or list of all the names of the engine parts from start to finish in these vans?
@@barrykavanagh46 I picked up a Haynes manual on Amazon (Owners Workshop Manual). Pretty good for identifying the parts (doesn´t give part numbers) and removal and replacement. Local garage printed up a page for sensor wiring and connections. When I thought I identified a bad part, I just went on line and ordered using my make, model and year info. Now the culprit (the in-tank sending unit) was ordered and replaced by my local garage. And apparently they ordered the wrong part twice, so there must have been some revisions at the factory that weren´t well documented. If you think thats your problem, you might as well take it to a shop because the tank has to lowered/removed to access the unit (no access from inside like other vehicles). Sorry for the long post, but thought it might be useful.
Thank you so much for your video, I will appreciate if you can mention name of the producer from your fuel pump? as there are different manufacturers for this piece.
Hey Mahdi, the part that fixed my problem is the fuel sender unit. It is not a pump. My Opel Vivaro does not have a in-tank pump. The injector pump sucks the fuel from the tank. Sorry, I cannot give you the part number as the replacement was done at garage. I can tell you that you are correct in that there are several types or models because the mechanic ordered the wrong part twice. I´m looking at the old part right now and cannot see any part number stamped on the case. Just says Renault and on the bottom G111. Sorry I could not be of more help
Thanx for the tip. I couldn't easily access it so I took it to the local garage and had them replace it even though they said it was good. Was one of the first things I checked. Don't remember if I put that in the video.
You´ll at least have a sender unit in the tank for the fuel gauge and maybe an in-tank pump. (Mine has no in-tank pump.) I´d check to see if you have access to the sender from inside the vehicle just over the gas tank. (Mine doesn´t so I had to take it to the shop so they could drop the tank.) If you do have access from the inside you will be able to troubleshoot the problem easily. You can remove it and check for obstructions. If it has an in-tank pump you can bench test it with a battery to check for smooth operation. If you go through the trouble of removing the sender/pump you might just want to replace it if its not too expensive and you can at least remove any doubts.
It looks like an in tank pump, but its not. There is no pump in my tank. Its a big empty shell with no pump or motor. Wire feeding the sender only go to the fuel level sensor. Its the damdest thing I ever saw.
I have a Renault trafic mk3. Hard start, no codes, always starts first time but cranks differently every time. I'm gonna try this first. I'm already having push back from my mechanic telling me it couldn't possibly be the sender unit. My the gauge sometimes sticks so at east that will be fixed. Turns out a lot of the mk3 have starting issues.
My 2.0L Trafic has just started missing a beat under load as you speed up, it starts on the button every time, I’ve changed the fuel filter and air filter so far and added some injector cleaner but still randomly missing a beat or 2 any ideas?
I´m just a backyard mechanic, and only out of necessity ´cause the professionals weren´t able to resolve my problem. With that said, it sounds like it might be starved for fuel (but you´ve already replaced fuel filter) so maybe loose bandjo fittings on the input to the fuel injector causing air to be sucked in. See any bubbles in the fuel line? Also, when I had an obstructed fuel sender (in the tank) it did hesitate quite a bit while under load, but only for a short while after starting. So that may not be your problem. Guess its not throwing any codes? Only other thing I can think of is maybe try replacing MAP sensor. Cheap and quick, but then you´d be doing what I did (replacing parts ´till it works) and that could get costly-
Oh, my Haynes manual says that "Engine hesitates under acceleration could be blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault, faulty injectors or faulty clutch pedal switch (don´t understand that one?)" Maybe your local shop could do a leak back test of the injectors. A quick test that shouln´t be very expensive relative to removing the injectors for bench testing.
Sorry, one last thing to check. Does the priming bulb get hard after a few pumps (assuming the 2.0L has one)? If not, that might lead you to an area to check. This was mentioned to me by someone in the comments section.
@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for your input, much appreciated, it maybe just I neglected changing the fuel filter on time, the new one and injector cleaner has helped but just an annoying stutter around 3000rpmn
@@davidgonsalves7094 last week it was a massive loss of power pulling away in first, so it’s made a difference maybe let the cleaner do it’s thing I actually used the stronger DPF cleaner with lowish fuel to make it as strong as poss, this morning it was like a rocket but with that annoying 3000rpm jump/hesitation
Had it done at my local shop because I was unable to drop the gas tank, so I can only tell you that they replaced the sender. Don't know what the connector looked like. Visual inspection of the sender didn't reveal anything. Didn't appear to be any obstructions. Suspect small crack somewhere in the sender or tubing allowing air to get sucked in.
@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for the fast reply i had to fit a temp primer pump and clips to the filter as my old one split, since then I'm getting hard starting in the morning with loads of smoke, just past the uk mot so nothing major so i am guessing the temp pipe im using is sucking in air rather than the nylon heat fitted pipe, thanks again
Been trouble free after replacing the sender unit. Starts better than ever. Didn´t actually find anything clogged in the unit, but the guys at the garage messed with it before I got it. Old one might have worked after cleaning but I had the shop replace it just to be sure. Didn´t want to drop the tank again in 6 months.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I’ve ordered this part. My van starts and revs when cold, but when it’s hot it will start ok but not rev. It’s a cheap enough part, I wouldn’t buy a used one.
@@acewelding My van had starting issues both hot and cold so don´t know if its the same problem. Can´t find anything in the Haynes Manual that fits your symptoms. May be blocked fuel tank vent. When cold, the vacuum in the tank has time to equalize. After driving (when hot) a blocked fuel tank vent could cause a vacuum in the tank making it harder for the pump to suck fuel from the tank. If it runs well when cold, I´d say most elements of the fuel delivery system is good (injectors, injector pump, filter, ect). But hey, I´m no expert so you can take my suggestion with a grain of salt.
@@davidgonsalves7094 hey we are the experts out here, the dealers are useless. I agree with your theory to a degree, would removing the filler cap prove/ disprove your diagnosis?
@@acewelding Yes, just leave the cap on loose. That should prove/disprove blocked vent. The cap is just to prevent evaporation and to keep gas from splashing out. The vent prevents vacuum in the tank. I tried it for a while on my van with no change in symptoms, blockage was in the sender. Maybe you´ll get lucky, but I know its a long shot.
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Playoffs Day 3 // DRX vs GEN | PRX vs TLN](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CWM1Q-2-o3M/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll drop a quick tip that will help in the diagnostic of such issue.
Simple, fast, cheap and easy, just as the Dr. order!
Manually pump fuel, with the pear shape pump that stand beside the fuel filter... Actuate the pump until filling up the circuit. Which you'll notice because the pump get's rigid due to internal pressure. THAT'S IT!
If the start issues "suddenly" disappear or change their behavior. You know where you stand. No need to wait 5 years! ;-)
BTW it's worth mention. Change your fuel filter regularly. When done use, the same pump to prime the circuit.
Cheers
Thanx for the tip. Sounds logical. Myself and all the other "experts" apparently didn't recognize the issue starring us in the face. The primer bulb never really got hard. That should have been a dead give away.
What does this rest prove mate ? My priming bulb is hard at starting but there are large air bubbles into the high pressure pump like this chap has ,,is it my low pressure pump / sender I the tank ? Thanks George
Thank you for sharing your video which will no doubt prevent misdiagnosis of this problem for many other van owners
Hey, just a quick update. The fix in my video lasted about about a year or so, then the van started acting up again like before. long crank time before starting. Resolved again by replacing the fuel fillter. Starts immediately. I must have gotten some gunk in the tank. Because the van has no fuel pump in the tank and has to suck the fuel from the injector pump - its easy for any little obstruction to cause problems.
the fault with the sender unit everyone misses .....on common rail systems ford and renault peugeot vauxhall ect the system needs to be air free for it to work correctly . the return line in the in tank sender has a valve on or in the end (depending on manufacturer) usually rubber that opens when fuel is flowing back to the tank but closes when fuel stops flowing . this is to prevent the system draining back to the tank... after a few years of use the rubber valve fails allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank . air gets into the system causing long crank and often no start depending how bad the rubber valve is perished
Interesting. I completely discarded the return line as a possible problem because I thought the excess fuel went back into the tank. Now I see I was incorrect. The return fuel is actually channeled back to the input side (via sender unit), only drawing fuel from the tank to make up for what was actually spent running the engine. Explains why there is only a very small hole in the sender unit for drawing fuel from the tank because its already getting fuel from the return line. Also with such a small inlet in the sender, particulate matter can easily clog things up. Thanks for the info.
I enjoyed your video. It’s a shame you had to spend so much money at other garages before the issue was found. Thanks for sharing 😁👍🏻
Thanks for your comment. I used to know how to fix my 67 chevy pickup but these new cars with ecu, sensors and electronic stuff, I´m kind of lost. And when the professionals fail you, what then? I´m just grateful for the youtube video I saw that helped me fix the problem.
@@davidgonsalves7094 new cars/vans are all the same. A symptom could be caused by multiple things. And when the mechanic sucks through his teeth you know your in trouble 😁
Thats probably the only part ive not had to fix on my 16 yr old , 180k trafic 😂😂😂 thanks for posting.
Great information share.. good man 👍
Good effort mate, not nice to hear you had to replace all that stuff to find out eventually but good effort for grizzing it out and getting to the bottom of the problem pal 👍
I hav had every other problem m8 but not that one thanks for the tip
Deixando aquele like para fortalecer o canal e ajudar nas horas assistindo os vídeos
Thanks very very helpful
Thank you!
Brilliant video. Thanks
Thanks for your comment. I must admit it wasn´t the best made video, but after so many years of headaches with this, I thought the info could be useful.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very helpful. Ive had problems with my van last few days, so I think next step is to do what you said 👍 Think it's the fuel pump
Here´s the link to the video that saved my butt: DrDansBiodiesel th-cam.com/video/yRMTEAKsScE/w-d-xo.html . Maybe your local garage has something to test for restrictions in the fuel line before replacing the pump. My Opel Vivaro 1.9 2005 doesn´t have a fuel pump in the tank - injecter pump just sucks fuel from the tank. Good luck.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very useful, because I am sure I have the exact same problem! Also David any advice on where to get a video or list of all the names of the engine parts from start to finish in these vans?
@@barrykavanagh46 I picked up a Haynes manual on Amazon (Owners Workshop Manual). Pretty good for identifying the parts (doesn´t give part numbers) and removal and replacement. Local garage printed up a page for sensor wiring and connections. When I thought I identified a bad part, I just went on line and ordered using my make, model and year info. Now the culprit (the in-tank sending unit) was ordered and replaced by my local garage. And apparently they ordered the wrong part twice, so there must have been some revisions at the factory that weren´t well documented. If you think thats your problem, you might as well take it to a shop because the tank has to lowered/removed to access the unit (no access from inside like other vehicles). Sorry for the long post, but thought it might be useful.
Thank you so much for your video, I will appreciate if you can mention name of the producer from your fuel pump? as there are different manufacturers for this piece.
Sorry had the video set for children and it didn´t allow comments. I´m kinda new at this stuff.
Hey Mahdi, the part that fixed my problem is the fuel sender unit. It is not a pump. My Opel Vivaro does not have a in-tank pump. The injector pump sucks the fuel from the tank. Sorry, I cannot give you the part number as the replacement was done at garage. I can tell you that you are correct in that there are several types or models because the mechanic ordered the wrong part twice. I´m looking at the old part right now and cannot see any part number stamped on the case. Just says Renault and on the bottom G111. Sorry I could not be of more help
Check that your crank sensor in gearbox low down on bell housing is ok too - they will sometimes throw a cam sync error code, sometimes nothing at all
Thanx for the tip. I couldn't easily access it so I took it to the local garage and had them replace it even though they said it was good. Was one of the first things I checked. Don't remember if I put that in the video.
Aí sim
My peugeot expert has been doing the same thing for years.wonder if it has a sender unit in the tank though?
You´ll at least have a sender unit in the tank for the fuel gauge and maybe an in-tank pump. (Mine has no in-tank pump.) I´d check to see if you have access to the sender from inside the vehicle just over the gas tank. (Mine doesn´t so I had to take it to the shop so they could drop the tank.) If you do have access from the inside you will be able to troubleshoot the problem easily. You can remove it and check for obstructions. If it has an in-tank pump you can bench test it with a battery to check for smooth operation. If you go through the trouble of removing the sender/pump you might just want to replace it if its not too expensive and you can at least remove any doubts.
That part you have there is not only a fuel sender it also incorporates the low pressure pump.
It looks like an in tank pump, but its not. There is no pump in my tank. Its a big empty shell with no pump or motor. Wire feeding the sender only go to the fuel level sensor. Its the damdest thing I ever saw.
I have a Renault trafic mk3. Hard start, no codes, always starts first time but cranks differently every time. I'm gonna try this first. I'm already having push back from my mechanic telling me it couldn't possibly be the sender unit. My the gauge sometimes sticks so at east that will be fixed. Turns out a lot of the mk3 have starting issues.
Pre warned is pre armed. Good topic.
You got that right! Thanks for the comment.
My 2.0L Trafic has just started missing a beat under load as you speed up, it starts on the button every time, I’ve changed the fuel filter and air filter so far and added some injector cleaner but still randomly missing a beat or 2 any ideas?
I´m just a backyard mechanic, and only out of necessity ´cause the professionals weren´t able to resolve my problem. With that said, it sounds like it might be starved for fuel (but you´ve already replaced fuel filter) so maybe loose bandjo fittings on the input to the fuel injector causing air to be sucked in. See any bubbles in the fuel line? Also, when I had an obstructed fuel sender (in the tank) it did hesitate quite a bit while under load, but only for a short while after starting. So that may not be your problem. Guess its not throwing any codes? Only other thing I can think of is maybe try replacing MAP sensor. Cheap and quick, but then you´d be doing what I did (replacing parts ´till it works) and that could get costly-
Oh, my Haynes manual says that "Engine hesitates under acceleration could be blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault, faulty injectors or faulty clutch pedal switch (don´t understand that one?)" Maybe your local shop could do a leak back test of the injectors. A quick test that shouln´t be very expensive relative to removing the injectors for bench testing.
Sorry, one last thing to check. Does the priming bulb get hard after a few pumps (assuming the 2.0L has one)? If not, that might lead you to an area to check. This was mentioned to me by someone in the comments section.
@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for your input, much appreciated, it maybe just I neglected changing the fuel filter on time, the new one and injector cleaner has helped but just an annoying stutter around 3000rpmn
@@davidgonsalves7094 last week it was a massive loss of power pulling away in first, so it’s made a difference maybe let the cleaner do it’s thing I actually used the stronger DPF cleaner with lowish fuel to make it as strong as poss, this morning it was like a rocket but with that annoying 3000rpm jump/hesitation
Great video, can you confirm if your vehicle is a 1.9 or 2.0? my 2.0 has these symptoms too
My van is a 1.9. Don't know if the 2.0 has a pump in the tank or just a sender lkke mine.
@@davidgonsalves7094 Thanks, 2.0 is different and has no pump in the tank
If no pump, did you solve
may i ask was it the sender or the connecton to the sender?
Had it done at my local shop because I was unable to drop the gas tank, so I can only tell you that they replaced the sender. Don't know what the connector looked like. Visual inspection of the sender didn't reveal anything. Didn't appear to be any obstructions. Suspect small crack somewhere in the sender or tubing allowing air to get sucked in.
@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for the fast reply i had to fit a temp primer pump and clips to the filter as my old one split, since then I'm getting hard starting in the morning with loads of smoke, just past the uk mot so nothing major so i am guessing the temp pipe im using is sucking in air rather than the nylon heat fitted pipe, thanks again
Sounds like the exact same symptoms I had. Good luck, I'd be interested to know where the leak was if you ever find it.
Did you find a fault with the sender unit?
Been trouble free after replacing the sender unit. Starts better than ever. Didn´t actually find anything clogged in the unit, but the guys at the garage messed with it before I got it. Old one might have worked after cleaning but I had the shop replace it just to be sure. Didn´t want to drop the tank again in 6 months.
@@davidgonsalves7094 I’ve ordered this part. My van starts and revs when cold, but when it’s hot it will start ok but not rev. It’s a cheap enough part, I wouldn’t buy a used one.
@@acewelding My van had starting issues both hot and cold so don´t know if its the same problem. Can´t find anything in the Haynes Manual that fits your symptoms. May be blocked fuel tank vent. When cold, the vacuum in the tank has time to equalize. After driving (when hot) a blocked fuel tank vent could cause a vacuum in the tank making it harder for the pump to suck fuel from the tank. If it runs well when cold, I´d say most elements of the fuel delivery system is good (injectors, injector pump, filter, ect). But hey, I´m no expert so you can take my suggestion with a grain of salt.
@@davidgonsalves7094 hey we are the experts out here, the dealers are useless. I agree with your theory to a degree, would removing the filler cap prove/ disprove your diagnosis?
@@acewelding Yes, just leave the cap on loose. That should prove/disprove blocked vent. The cap is just to prevent evaporation and to keep gas from splashing out. The vent prevents vacuum in the tank. I tried it for a while on my van with no change in symptoms, blockage was in the sender. Maybe you´ll get lucky, but I know its a long shot.