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Yo deberia haber buscado una 400e (aranque electrico). Tuve que vender la mia por que empezó a dolorme los tobillos. A veces arancó a la primera, pero otros veces no ya no pude mas. Quizas no tenia el carburador tuneado o simplemente fui muy torpe.

Thanx for the tip. I couldn't easily access it so I took it to the local garage and had them replace it even though they said it was good. Was one of the first things I checked. Don't remember if I put that in the video.

Perdone el retraso. lamaneta.com tiene un pdf de despiece de la moto, Tubo escape, codos, gomas, llantas y mucho mas en taller-manolin.negocio.site 955830851 en El Coronil. Velocimetro y cable en mondejartienda.com 933867553. Retenes y rodomientos en cualquier sitio que venden rodamientos (Rodamientos Sevilla en mi caso). Juntas de motor en ebay, que viene un juego completo.

Recuerde que esto es un mono cylindro de 423 cc. Y por eso, estas motos tiene fama por sus vibraciones. Al respecto al sonido, el micro no le hace justicia - es emblematica a la marca Sanglas, Por cierto, tenia un poco de ayuda de unos del los ultimos mecanicos de las guardia civil que mantenia estos bestias y me dió el visto bueno. Gracias por los comentarios.

Ud tiene buen ojo. Si, la horquilla no es lo suyo pero la moto venia con lo que tiene puesto. Y los intermitentes son unos baratos chinos, lo que tenia estaban todos rotos y los recambios tipo original cuestan una pasta, Y el deposito era cromado, pero oxidado y abollado. Para mi, lo importante era devolverlo a la carretera en unos condiciones mas o menos presentable con un presupuesto limitado. Gracias por los comentarios.

It looks like an in tank pump, but its not. There is no pump in my tank. Its a big empty shell with no pump or motor. Wire feeding the sender only go to the fuel level sensor. Its the damdest thing I ever saw.

My van is a 1.9. Don't know if the 2.0 has a pump in the tank or just a sender lkke mine.

@@davidgonsalves7094 Thanks, 2.0 is different and has no pump in the tank

If no pump, did you solve

Had it done at my local shop because I was unable to drop the gas tank, so I can only tell you that they replaced the sender. Don't know what the connector looked like. Visual inspection of the sender didn't reveal anything. Didn't appear to be any obstructions. Suspect small crack somewhere in the sender or tubing allowing air to get sucked in.

@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for the fast reply i had to fit a temp primer pump and clips to the filter as my old one split, since then I'm getting hard starting in the morning with loads of smoke, just past the uk mot so nothing major so i am guessing the temp pipe im using is sucking in air rather than the nylon heat fitted pipe, thanks again

Sounds like the exact same symptoms I had. Good luck, I'd be interested to know where the leak was if you ever find it.

Hey, just a quick update. The fix in my video lasted about about a year or so, then the van started acting up again like before. long crank time before starting. Resolved again by replacing the fuel fillter. Starts immediately. I must have gotten some gunk in the tank. Because the van has no fuel pump in the tank and has to suck the fuel from the injector pump - its easy for any little obstruction to cause problems.

I know what you´re talking about. Too many regulations and taxes. I´m an American and would like to import a pickup from the US, but between taxes and homologation issues it´s too cost prohibitive.

You´ll at least have a sender unit in the tank for the fuel gauge and maybe an in-tank pump. (Mine has no in-tank pump.) I´d check to see if you have access to the sender from inside the vehicle just over the gas tank. (Mine doesn´t so I had to take it to the shop so they could drop the tank.) If you do have access from the inside you will be able to troubleshoot the problem easily. You can remove it and check for obstructions. If it has an in-tank pump you can bench test it with a battery to check for smooth operation. If you go through the trouble of removing the sender/pump you might just want to replace it if its not too expensive and you can at least remove any doubts.

Interesting. I completely discarded the return line as a possible problem because I thought the excess fuel went back into the tank. Now I see I was incorrect. The return fuel is actually channeled back to the input side (via sender unit), only drawing fuel from the tank to make up for what was actually spent running the engine. Explains why there is only a very small hole in the sender unit for drawing fuel from the tank because its already getting fuel from the return line. Also with such a small inlet in the sender, particulate matter can easily clog things up. Thanks for the info.

Been trouble free after replacing the sender unit. Starts better than ever. Didn´t actually find anything clogged in the unit, but the guys at the garage messed with it before I got it. Old one might have worked after cleaning but I had the shop replace it just to be sure. Didn´t want to drop the tank again in 6 months.

@@davidgonsalves7094 I’ve ordered this part. My van starts and revs when cold, but when it’s hot it will start ok but not rev. It’s a cheap enough part, I wouldn’t buy a used one.

@@acewelding My van had starting issues both hot and cold so don´t know if its the same problem. Can´t find anything in the Haynes Manual that fits your symptoms. May be blocked fuel tank vent. When cold, the vacuum in the tank has time to equalize. After driving (when hot) a blocked fuel tank vent could cause a vacuum in the tank making it harder for the pump to suck fuel from the tank. If it runs well when cold, I´d say most elements of the fuel delivery system is good (injectors, injector pump, filter, ect). But hey, I´m no expert so you can take my suggestion with a grain of salt.

@@davidgonsalves7094 hey we are the experts out here, the dealers are useless. I agree with your theory to a degree, would removing the filler cap prove/ disprove your diagnosis?

@@acewelding Yes, just leave the cap on loose. That should prove/disprove blocked vent. The cap is just to prevent evaporation and to keep gas from splashing out. The vent prevents vacuum in the tank. I tried it for a while on my van with no change in symptoms, blockage was in the sender. Maybe you´ll get lucky, but I know its a long shot.

I´m just a backyard mechanic, and only out of necessity ´cause the professionals weren´t able to resolve my problem. With that said, it sounds like it might be starved for fuel (but you´ve already replaced fuel filter) so maybe loose bandjo fittings on the input to the fuel injector causing air to be sucked in. See any bubbles in the fuel line? Also, when I had an obstructed fuel sender (in the tank) it did hesitate quite a bit while under load, but only for a short while after starting. So that may not be your problem. Guess its not throwing any codes? Only other thing I can think of is maybe try replacing MAP sensor. Cheap and quick, but then you´d be doing what I did (replacing parts ´till it works) and that could get costly-

Oh, my Haynes manual says that "Engine hesitates under acceleration could be blocked injectors/fuel injection system fault, faulty injectors or faulty clutch pedal switch (don´t understand that one?)" Maybe your local shop could do a leak back test of the injectors. A quick test that shouln´t be very expensive relative to removing the injectors for bench testing.

Sorry, one last thing to check. Does the priming bulb get hard after a few pumps (assuming the 2.0L has one)? If not, that might lead you to an area to check. This was mentioned to me by someone in the comments section.

@@davidgonsalves7094 thanks for your input, much appreciated, it maybe just I neglected changing the fuel filter on time, the new one and injector cleaner has helped but just an annoying stutter around 3000rpmn

@@davidgonsalves7094 last week it was a massive loss of power pulling away in first, so it’s made a difference maybe let the cleaner do it’s thing I actually used the stronger DPF cleaner with lowish fuel to make it as strong as poss, this morning it was like a rocket but with that annoying 3000rpm jump/hesitation

Thanx for the tip. Sounds logical. Myself and all the other "experts" apparently didn't recognize the issue starring us in the face. The primer bulb never really got hard. That should have been a dead give away.

What does this rest prove mate ? My priming bulb is hard at starting but there are large air bubbles into the high pressure pump like this chap has ,,is it my low pressure pump / sender I the tank ? Thanks George

You got that right! Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for your comment. I used to know how to fix my 67 chevy pickup but these new cars with ecu, sensors and electronic stuff, I´m kind of lost. And when the professionals fail you, what then? I´m just grateful for the youtube video I saw that helped me fix the problem.

@@davidgonsalves7094 new cars/vans are all the same. A symptom could be caused by multiple things. And when the mechanic sucks through his teeth you know your in trouble 😁

Thanks for your comment. I must admit it wasn´t the best made video, but after so many years of headaches with this, I thought the info could be useful.

@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very helpful. Ive had problems with my van last few days, so I think next step is to do what you said 👍 Think it's the fuel pump

Here´s the link to the video that saved my butt: DrDansBiodiesel th-cam.com/video/yRMTEAKsScE/w-d-xo.html . Maybe your local garage has something to test for restrictions in the fuel line before replacing the pump. My Opel Vivaro 1.9 2005 doesn´t have a fuel pump in the tank - injecter pump just sucks fuel from the tank. Good luck.

@@davidgonsalves7094 I found it very useful, because I am sure I have the exact same problem! Also David any advice on where to get a video or list of all the names of the engine parts from start to finish in these vans?

@@barrykavanagh46 I picked up a Haynes manual on Amazon (Owners Workshop Manual). Pretty good for identifying the parts (doesn´t give part numbers) and removal and replacement. Local garage printed up a page for sensor wiring and connections. When I thought I identified a bad part, I just went on line and ordered using my make, model and year info. Now the culprit (the in-tank sending unit) was ordered and replaced by my local garage. And apparently they ordered the wrong part twice, so there must have been some revisions at the factory that weren´t well documented. If you think thats your problem, you might as well take it to a shop because the tank has to lowered/removed to access the unit (no access from inside like other vehicles). Sorry for the long post, but thought it might be useful.

Pros: Es una moto muy guapa, la gente siempre paran para hacer fotos y comentarios. Sonido unico. Todavia se puede comprar recambios. Sencillo de mantener. Contras: 400T es arranque a pedal. Un poco incomodo. Tiene que tener cuidado con el retroceso del pedal de arranque, te puedes hacer daño si no lo haces bien. Modelos posteriores tiene arranque electrico pero me dicen que falla mucho. Con piñon de serie su velocidad es unos 100 km/hr, un poco mas con nuevo piñon de ataque. Hay que acostumbrar a los vibraciones dado que es mono cylindrico. En fin, buena moto para sacar los fines de semana a trayectos cortos (1 - 2 horas) pero para mi, no es moto para usar a diario o rutas largas.

@@davidgonsalves7094 muchas gracias, me has aclarado bastantes dudas. Es más o menos lo que buscaba.

Rutas largas sin problema. Tengo una desde hace años y llegué a hacer más de 500 km. en un solo día y rutas de más de 200 km. las hago a menudo. Si están bien mantenidas , con una buena puesta a punto y se le da un buen trato solo dan satisfacciones y buenos momentos.

@@HectorSanchez-eq1su y las vibraciones?...

@@pabloperez4063 ¿Que vibraciones, somos hombres o señoritas? 🤷. Con un cigüeñal bien equilibrado son prácticamente nulas.

Hey Mahdi, the part that fixed my problem is the fuel sender unit. It is not a pump. My Opel Vivaro does not have a in-tank pump. The injector pump sucks the fuel from the tank. Sorry, I cannot give you the part number as the replacement was done at garage. I can tell you that you are correct in that there are several types or models because the mechanic ordered the wrong part twice. I´m looking at the old part right now and cannot see any part number stamped on the case. Just says Renault and on the bottom G111. Sorry I could not be of more help

Gracias, estoy orgulloso del proyecto. Motor - rodamientos, segmentos, retenes, valvulas nuevas. Generador repasado y cambié el regulador de voltaje con una electronica de un volkswagen. Cambié los frenos, radios de acero inoxidables nuevos y pulé las llantas. Asiento retapizado. Manillar y manetas, y mandos nuevos. Chapa y pintura tambien. Fue muy divertido pero costoso.

@@davidgonsalves7094 le entiendo perfectamente jejeje, yo hice lo propio pero con una Sanglas 400F... si lo hizo usted aún tiene más valor. Espero ver más vídeos de esa belleza. Por cierto, me llama la atención lo de Woslvagen, que le puso el regulador de corriente? Se lo pregunto porque en mi Sabglas se quemó el de origen y le puse otro igual que pude encontrar en Francia, pero si los de Volkswagen sirven sería bueno para la siguiente

El regulador que puse es "Bosch original regulador 9190040099 alternador corriente continua 30 amperios". Puedes encontrar en Ebay o tiende de recambios por unos 35 €. No es muy grande y encaje perfectamente. Los coneciones estan igual que original DF, B+, ect.

Creo que tiene razon. Compré la moto sin saber que no era la horquilla original. Me di cuenta luego durante la restauracíon.

Gracias. Acaba de pulir las llantas de aluminio y poner radios de acero inoxidable y poner ruedas nuevas. Su aspecto se ha mejorado desde que hice el video. Todavia no es perfecto, pero hago lo que puedo poquito a poco.