How to Replace Hangers and Shackles on Ford F150 | Impossible Bolt Removal Instructions Included
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2021
- Here we are showing you how to remove the shackle and hanger on the rear of a ford F150 pickup truck from the late 70s till 2003. We show you how we cut them off, remove some impossible bolts, and put it all together again. So come join us for the adventure.
Check out our store at simcoespring.com/
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Shackle used in video can be purchased at:
simcoespring.com/products/330...
Hanger used in video can be purchased at:
simcoespring.com/products/338...
These parts only fit on the ford F150s that had 2 1/2" wide rear springs between 1979 and 2003. Make sure you verify your spring width before purchasing them. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You make it seem so easy…I’m dreading doing this.
They are one of the hardest projects to do on a pickup truck suspension. I have about 4-5 videos on taking out these bolts if you want a few different examples before you try it.
I really like the trick of using the knife to hold the bolts in place.
on this particular vehicle...it wasn't 100% necessary, however there are some nasty ones that it is.
Thank you for sharing.
The web is great and I am glad that the (LHC) brought to us but there is noting to equal hands on learnings
Great video! Have to do mine here asap to get my OPI. Thanks!!!
Nice job. I like the knife idea.
Good job..just what the customer wanted.
great trick with the knife.
This was a big help, Need to do this on a 1999 E150.
Did this to my son's truck in our driveway, hardest part was getting the bolts out of the spring. Michigan winters
Yes.. it is the hardest part
I love the content - fascinating - Was it only me that saw a truck almost fall onto your head?
ya, my jack has a safety catch in it tho. Been using that jack since 1986
Thanks Scott!
the real question is. Did it work for you?
Long Knife, Genius!! I had those bolts fall in idk how many times when i did this to my 95 f350
To be faaaaiiiirrrr, I'm just here for those wonderful Oots and Aboots
I don't know what you are talking about eh?
Try some never seize grease on your bolts shafts and threads on assembly will make life easier next time around.
Hey Scott I really enjoy your work and knowledge , I’m just south of the border in northern NY but if I was up north I would love to work for you . Keep doing your thing
That brings back memories had to do the same on a ole ford truck i had yupp an nothing like using the ole fire wrench makes life so much easier
Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid!
Nobody ever greases the shackle or leaf spring bushing bolts before they install them either, which leads to the bolt rusting and freezing to the bushing center metal sleeve, and then the bolts are nearly impossible to remove after that.
Awesome job man. I gotta go the hangers for my 1995. I also really like that trick with the knife. Really useful. Great job. 👍
Thanks. I mostly use that trick for the front hangers on the ford rangers. Mostly because you can't even reach the heads of the bolts with your fingers to hold them in place.
I drive an S-10, no problems with my rear shackles, or the bottom of my core support rotting out ( Ford Rangers).
👍👍
That air jack sure does fall a bunch.
Yup. Thankfully it has the safety catches
Seemed totally sketchy! As for relying on the safety catches... two safeties are one, one is none.
i was your 100th sub
thanks! and I missed it while cooking and eating dinner. now I'm at 101
@@simcoespring you know whats funny i couldve used your videos to help me work on a 1997 gmc van i had, leaf spring shackle had a hole in it but i sold the rotted shitbox before i could be bothered to fix that
@@1999Dorito well and that's why I thought I should start filming what I do at work every day. There isn't really any content out there for specifically "suspension" work done in a professional garage.
@@simcoespring Make that 102, I just subbed.
How did know the bushing were good after hanger removal
So, I have a 96 Bronco, is the gas tank on that as large as the bronco? cause mine spans the width of the frame right there where the hangers are and Im trying to find out if there's a way I can avoid having to take the gas tank out.
Same problem my truck
Or how he doesn’t tell you that you’ll need a breaker bar to line the shackle and hanger you can jack it up all day long but still is off and needs pulled down to get the last bolt in what a pain lol I just did one side by myself and now I’m dreading the other side
Do you know if the 3inch hangers for the 4x4 150 will fit in the same holes as the 2.5 inch hangers for the 2wd 150
Would this almost be the same procedure on a 97 Econoline 150
Pretty much. The shackle is the same part. Hanger might be a different part number.
Hi. the shop wants about $1000 to do both sides. I'm thinking about removing the bed and drilling the rivets out since I live in a subdivision and I don't want to make a ton of noise or buy more tools. I have a 1989 F150 rear wheel drive. Do you think I could drill them out?
Wow 1000 for both sides is a lot. . If you use a punch to mark the center of the rivet you should be able to drill them.
The hardest part will still be getting the bolts out of the bushings
Parts are like 35.00
Ford and GM rusted out spring hangers and shackles. Job security.
Aren’t the shackle bolts supposed to be only snug so the spring can flex?
They have a steel sleeve inside.
Why not replace the bushing while you have it out?
I find when putting in shackle bolts, if I use a super thick silicone grease made for shackle bolts or bolts with grease fitting, this allows the shackle joints to flex without binding. It will also keep rust from forming and seizing the joints. I find the ride is way better if I don't over tighten and lube the shackle bolts. Love yur videos. eh?
the bolt is supposed to be tight. You tighten the bolt up against the sleeve on the bushing. Only the rubber is suposed to flex. If you leave the bolt loose and grease it, you will absolutely just wear out the hangers and shackles. They are not designed to do that.
You used frame to bracket bolts that had threads all the way up to the underside of the head. So, the threads are being squashed by the frame and the bracket. Of course, this would never be acceptable in aircraft design or maintenance. O only use bolts that are not full threads on the bearing surfaces. Have you ever had call back problems associated with the weak threads being destroyed and wallowing out the bracket and frame holes?
How much labor?
Im addicted watching you sweat
I like how he skipped through the hardest part
On my 97 F150, the shackle rusted in half. Worst quality of any Ford half ton I ever owned. Burned more fuel with the 4.2 six and a stick than my wife’s 4.8 Silverado automatic.
Your jack keeps failing
I can only imagine the horrible things you have repaired, I bet you don't need to advertise.
So are you cheaper then an average shop? Why would a person go to you instead of a normal auto shop?