A pro tip from modelling products manufacturer regarding white spirit guys! Always look for low aromatic (dearomatized) white spirit. Study the labels when in doubt. The thing is the higher the aromatics content the stronger the solvent but high potency white spirit will attack paint coats even acrylic ones. When in hardware store there are many types to choose from and you may stumble upon industrial strength types which are OK for contractors but not us modellers - twice the dead ache and paint gets attacked if you pick too strong a kind. Happy modelling! Chris
Actually most modelling lacquer thinners (besides the mr color self leveller) are _not_ cellulose thinners, specifically because it’s such cancerous horrible stuff. It’s really bad for you!
I buy sets of pastel chalks and use them instead of powdered pigments sold by modeling suppliers. They're very inexpensive and can be blended to any color you need. Rub them over a bit of screening or wire strainer to make powders.
The best way to save on kit expenses, and by far the most effective way to cut your modelling costs, is to stop hoarding a stash :) Even though they may be over-priced, I find my consumables to be but a drop in the ocean of money I've poured on kits I never get around to build. But, that's probably just me 😇
Building what you buy and only buying what you build, is hard but much more fulfilling. If you are buying secondary parts or add on’s buy them when you buy the kit otherwise they are always sold out and for me that how most of my kits end up in the hoard not quite there. Sometimes just build that imperfect build i promise it will be okay
I liked most of these, but one to carefully consider is buying kits off eBay or Amazon etc: Yes they may be cheaper, but check the postage and taxes. It might be cheaper to use your local model shop if you have one. Even if it’s not, I’m happy to pay a premium of 10-20% on a kit to keep the shop open so it’s there when I need it. I understand not everyone will be in this position, and cost will be a major factor in their decisions, but I’ll give a few examples of why local is better: 1) you get a “short shot” kit where the plastic has not filled the mould properly.-Early Airfix Sea Fury kits had this problem a couple of years back.- Who’s going to look after you better? The local model shop, or the seller in China/India/America on eBay? - in many countries you’re expected to deal with the seller not the manufacturer in claims like this. What happens if you buy this kit from a private seller on eBay? You can raise a dispute, but if they sell it as unopened NOS and sold as seen, you’re on a hiding to nothing. 2) In Australia, lay by is really common in the retail sector. Can’t afford what you want?, minimum of 10% down, and you have between 6 weeks and three months to pay it off with regular payments. - timeframe depends on the store. I know you can use Afterpay and the like, but they don’t let you skip a week or make a half payment because the dog was sick, or you needed to replace punctured tyre on the car. Don’t take the piss, and build a relationship with the shop. I now have three local shops that are happy to order stuff in for me and put it on lay by, are happy to be a little “elastic” with the time frame in paying the kit off depending on its value, and let me phone them up and make payments on items on lay by when I can’t get into the store. 3) As mentioned above, the shops I deal with are happy to order stuff in for me, and if it’s not from a supplier they deal with, they will look at alternatives. EG: Heller don’t seem to have an official importer In Australia, but I want several of their kits, and one shop is happy to look into this, and will buy within the trade from another country or do the sums and see if it’s worth them becoming an official importer. 4) Local shops can be a ready source of help and advice, or even discounts. One of the ones I use has several staff who are members of the state modellers association, others who are into the R/C car or aircraft clubs, and they offer a 10% discount to members of these clubs. I make my annual club membership fees back several times over. 5) When you really need that pot of paint/tube of glue/masking tape TODAY! they are there. None of this paying extra for a prime membership to get it tomorrow* (*terms and conditions apply, it might actually be a fortnight on Thursday until it arrives. If you don’t live in the city) DON’T GET ME WRONG! I’m not saying don’t use eBay, I use it myself for stuff I can’t get In Australia. What I’m saying is if you CAN use a local model shop, please do so as much as possible. If you don’t have a local shop, or it’s too far away to get to easily (I’m going bush soon, so my nearest shop will be 200km away) then please consider using a bricks and mortar store in your area/country over a drop shipper or on line only place that might not even be in your country. Keep people in jobs, and they will keep you in models!
Oh for sure, if the local store has what you need, buy from them- the problem is that the majority of people dont have a local store to support in the first place (even before the advent of the internet, they weren't exactly commonplace)
Really old school tricks and tips, no news here. Using cellulose thinner as a glue has been there for ever. BUT, no, it's not as strong as Tamiya extra thin, it doesn't have the same grip, specially at first, while extra thin not only dries quickly, it does grip since the beginning. If you're ok with that go ahead, but you have to know all the facts and how differently those works. And very important, liquid latex masks rots over time... I've never bought such a big bottle of masking liquid as shown there, always 17ml bottles, and yet they do rot over time, you don't use that much all the time so it rots in the bottle. Sometimes it's already rotten in the bottle when you buy it because plain shelf time. It works despite the stinkiness of it (if it's not dried...), but a smelly job it is to mask with rotten latex. If you buy the bigger bottle, 1 litre of rotten liquid latex has to stink really well... bear that in mind.
One tip I learned from MarklinofSweeden was to purchase one sheet of corrugated plastic for your scale. Then use it as a mold and apply Elmer's glue on top (a generous coat) and wait for it to dry. Then peel off the sheet of glue and use it as you would the plastic corrugated plastic. Cheers from eastern TN
Weird. This video is old yet I come here to offer a tip and see a fellow Tennessean has commented only two days ago. Clarksville for me. My tip: don’t pay for the finer sandpaper grits for polishing. I’ve used cardboard and even notebook paper for years and it works beautifully. Try different types. I usually finish with notebook paper.
I use 90% IPA in a 2:1 mix with water for general water based acrylic paint thinning, cleaning my air brush, wiping grease off models, my specs and the screen on my iPad as I watch videos like this. - also works as disinfectant when you cut yourself with a modelling knife. Stings like fuuuuuudge, but better than a septic wound.
I also buy IPA in larger volumes for all sorts of stuff, like cleaning electronics PCBs or modelling stuff. IPA is also extremely efficient at removing hot glue. Aceton is also widely used to weld ABS together.
Also IPA will clear all paint from painted models (I can only say about acrylic paints) and will also separate parts glued with their thin cement as well.. I had paint issues with a Ferrari F1 model that is no longer in stock that I was able to dip it in IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner and found out it took all paint off and separated the glue bits which was also an unexpected good result.
IPA is something i have indeed been using to clean my airbrush (and a thinner on occasion). White spirit is my go-to for enamel and oils as well :D Scalemates is the MVP of modelling research too lol
Great work, was not aware the cellulose thinner could be used as cement. But I do have a job lot of that and isopropyl for cleaning my airbrush, depending on what paint I'm using. Also, eBay for anything and everything. Tools, paints, kits, even stuff outside of the hobby. It takes 2mins to check prices on there before jumping one way or the other
Very interesting video, thanks! I've also seen that the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (I think it was Cleaner?) is the same thing as the liquid cement, due to them having to put the chemical sheet and it's basically identical.
I recently bought a "pre owned" hobbyboss 1/18 me262 from kingkit at basically half the retail price just because the box had a few creases! Absolutey bargains to be had on here guys! 👍
My fav DIY airbrush cleaner recipe I got from airbrush artist: By weight: 600g of winter windshield washer fluid (amona free) 300g distilled water 100g IPA 40 drops of glycerin. Works like a charm
@@raphanunu6912 Ahh, my nectar was always clumpy because I forgot to adjust for daylight savings (and I was never sure about Bertha, she's very friendly with those woodland fauns)
Tip number 6 would be if you need ABS plastic based putty/filler, just take mustard glass jar with good seal metal lid, wash it, put in some ABS scraps for instance broken to beyond repair appliances in your chosen color and pour in acetone. Let it sit for couple of days depending on size of the peaces, mix it and add ether plastic or acetone to get consistency you want. Its better to put on thin coats but you can put thick coat and use lighter to burn the acetone off but it will puff out since outer surface hardens trapping the vapors acetone so needs to pressed back in, but it has worked wonders in some projects. If it dries too much just add acetone back and here we go again after few days of dissolving. Acetone is dirt cheap and plastic is free so there is nice essentially free putty to use.
I tried doing this, but the plastic settled back to the bottom of the bottle and the colour seems to have separated. Is this simply because there's too much acetone?
Thanks for the tips. Let me do one addition, not only check Scale Mates for the cheaper shop, but also one cheaper of the history of the tool. A lot of the production tools were often sold between the kit producer. Sometimes you find kits much cheaper in a shop by an old producer, than if you will buy it by the actuel producer.
Thank you for your informative and helpful videos. I particularly wanted to thank you for your clear articulation and concise explanations in clear well pronounced English. Thank you Alan
IPA is also good for cleaning model railway wheels and track, as well as helping break up surface tension when ballasting. Also, extra-hold hairspray works as a good replacement for layering spray when doing scenics like Static Grass.
What a great video. Buying kits from model shows and swaps meets is also a great way to save money. I once got an airfix 1/48 meteor at one for 25 bucks (14 pounds)!
Thanks for a great video! Definitely going to try some. Only thing I found is that white spirits from the hardware store can be too hot for some paints. You can get “artist white spirits” which is more expensive but less hot and works better. It’s still cheaper than the “special” hobby brands and 0.5L will last quite a while… 👍
I've been using lacquer thinner and/or acetone or solvent mixes for years. The problem I have, and have always had, is fine application. I always manage to get too much, and then there are fingerprints, and/or melted styrene to contend with. I had bought a "touch n flow" at one time at a model show, never got around to using it, then found out the needle was bent, and there was a vacuum bulb that was supposed to go with it that I didn't have, and just haven't gotten around to doing any research to find another, if they even exist anymore. Most of what I work on now is resin figures, so using solvents is almost a moot point. But I do have some styrene kits to get going on, so I need something.
Good stuff. By the way, Tamiya's extra thin plastic cement is 100% the identical content to its Airbrush Thinner. I don't know how it compares to cellulose thinner in regards to price, but their airbrush thinner comes in a big bottle and is like three times cheaper per volume than the extra thin.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 Oops, yes that's what I meant! Thank you for pointing it out. The plastic cement as the same two ingredients as the airbrush CLEANER, except on the labels it either states 50/50 or 49/51 mixture. That 1% won't actually make a difference and is just a legal loophole so they can claim they are different products.
Yes, I saw a TH-cam video on this a few days ago which showed the chemical hazard sheet for both products which confirms that they are identical. Good news, unless you live in the UK, because here, it seems impossible to buy Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner other than as an extremely overpriced import which defeats the object.
modelling cement is pretty much mostly acetone, which you can buy by bulk from hardware stores. if you find your regular cement drying up, you can add this solvent to it until it's back to the regular viscosity IPA is great for regular paint but NOT metallics, the polar nature of the alcohol will cause problems with the metallic particles, use modeling thinners (which is toluene if you can find them)
I restore antique farm tractors as a hobby/business. Many items ( acetone, toluene, laquer thinner, enamel reducer, sandpaper, etc.) can be found in the paint and body repair section of an auto parts store. NAPA, Carquest and the like. Worth browsing.
Good tips. In Australia isopropyl alcohol can be a bit expensive but Bunnings sell a product called “Shellite” which is basically zippo lighter fuel at a fraction of the price, works great for cleaning your airbrush if you paint with acrylics and many other uses including lighter fluid 😂
@@ModellingWeekly I think “shellite” might be a brand name I’m not sure, but you can buy a litre of Shellite for what a 125ml can of zippo lighter fluid costs.
An excellent substitute for liquid glue is also the MEK (MethylEthylKetone). Chip, fast and durable bonding. Is also excellent cleaner for use on brushes, airbrushes and tools. Dilutes also modelling puttys very well.
MEK is highly toxic. Particularly if used indoor, in a poorly ventilated area. If you think cutting 10-15 years of your life is worth gluing plastic. please do so.
@@sailormatlac9114 The toxicity of MEK is similar to that of the cellulose thinνer which proposed in the video and that of the commercial liquid plastic glues. All the plastic glues' composition are based on harmful solvents.
I have used MEK for more than 5 years. Keep the lid on or covering the bottle as you would with TET of any other liquid glue to keep the fumes down. Revell Contacta takes ages for the smell to dissipate.
That was the number 1 priority, so I'm really glad you could find use in it :)) yeah, shilling products (imo) just seems morally wrong. Sometimes I get sent stuff for review, but I always make sure to have an extremely neutral, balanced opinion
Another to add to the discussion. Go to the local automotive supply store. The various sand papers for working with car bodies is great. Dense sponges, soft - backed sand pads, blocks, and high quality sheets in all grades. If you need a specific shape or "stick" just super-glue it to some cheap metal stock. Many of the types are perfect as is. Buying the various sticks to me is lesser quality. This is a boat-load less expensive too.
If you mix 50/100 windex/Glass cleaner 50/100 iPA and use instead of expensive cleaners for airbrushing,brushes cleanup,paint spill"acryllic only" and area cleanup and tidiness. I also use a mix of 60 percent IPA 20 H2O and three drop of glycerin instead of buying airbrush thinner works with all acrylic paint but a few.
I like your studied approach to saving money on supplies. They all make good sense to me and I will be trying them. I subscribed. Best wishes from the hills of Virginia, Cork and Family
At least for U.S. buyers, be aware we have a couple of choices in purchasing IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol), a 70% solution, and a 90%+ solution. The stronger stuff is better for thinning and airbrush cleaning, but the cheaper 70% stuff is fine for general de-greasing wipe-downs. Hope this is helpful to someone!
You can also use the IPA alcohol to wash and de-grease your models before painting OR to remove screwed up paint. Works best on acrylics. Enamels need to be fresh, otherwise they won't was off.
I use emulsion paints for my models, they are ideal for brush painting,the results are excellent.Try them and I thing they also work very good for airbrush painting.
There are many benefits to supporting your favored hobby shops, at least for a portion of your needs. They can frequently help you out when you are in a bind. The chemicals which we use in our hobby are often - but not always - a small cost relative to the purchase of kits, paints, and scenery supplies. That said, the thinners for acrylic painting are marked up a great deal, and especially if you are spray painting large surfaces, or are building large objects from acrylic / ABS, you can save some money by venturing into the world of other sources for your chemicals, including the plastics supply houses that support the trophies and sign making businesses. NOTE: While we *typically* use small quantities that need only some basic safety precautions, these are industrial chemicals (as are many other household products) and they need to be treated with respect, because they can make you very sick, injure you badly, or even kill you in some unpleasant fashions if you are careless or stupid... or ignorant... chemistry and physics don't care about you, you need to take care of them. Commercial acrylic paint thinners for airbrushing are typically grain alcohol (ethanol) - denatured with a bit of methanol (wood alcohol) in the USA, diluted with deionized water, and given a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent (sodium dodecyl sulfate) as a surfactant to promote wetting. You absolutely do *NOT* want any oil based lubricants in your airbrush, as they will ruin your finish on your painted parts. You can use drug store grade rubbing alcohol - 70 % by volume isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol, IPA (but not India Pale Ale!), iPOH to clean your airbrush without ill effect unless the manufacturer is using unusual rubber compounds in the O-ring seals. 70% iPOH also works well as a thinner for acrylic paints when you want a flat/matte finish, as on a military camouflage pattern. 91% or more iPOH does a very good job of stripping acrylic paints without damaging styrene plastics, although it might damage acrylic (PMMA, Plexiglas, Perspex) so proceed with caution. When solvent welding ABS or straight up acrylic plastic - or joining the two, as is often done when working with Plastruct shapes, you need a solvent which contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane) your basic styerene solvents which are mostly acetone will not swell (soften) these polymers, although they are safer to use, and quite good for plain polystyrene of HIPS (the clear PS resin used quite often for windows and aircraft canopies). Lacquer thinner in the US contains various petroleum distillates, including xylene, or at least it did. A custom painter working at my nearest - and favorite - model train store died for illness caused by breathing in too much lacquer paint and thinners from airbrushing without a fume hood or respirator rated for organic vapors. Back more than 20 years ago... the hobbyists just didn't know any better then. He also didn't wear solvent proof gloves, and routinely cleaned his hands with lacquer thinner.
Here in my country there are no hobby shops so you have to bring everything being delayed and with high import costs (even more than the product) I appreciate these options
Can you recommend any non-toxic liquid styrene solvents that might be used as a cement. In the past I used Plastruct's non-toxic liquid Weldene but unfortunately the company no longer manufacture it anymore. To my knowledge, the only other non-toxic cement available is from Testors. Unfortunately, these cements are poor quality.
@@chemech I've done a bit of research into Plastruct's Weldene. It's seems to be composed entirely of the non toxic citric oil called Limonene which, in sufficient concentrations, is a known solvent of polystyrene. In fact, some industries use it to completely dissolve polystyrene in order to recycle the material. It's not without hazards though, its highly flammable and a skin & eye irritant. However, it's far less toxic than any other polystyrene solvent.
Another thing I been doing now is buying artist acrylic paint instead of airbrush paint by those big company. It is so much cheaper with the volume and I honestly can't feel any difference. Easily thin down with some home made IPA thinner that I learned from other TH-cam video. Grips on my resin kit strong without problem
One of the greatest saving to me is using automotive pu paints.. can buy loose quantity as 50 ml.. costs 20 Rupees.. another greatest advantage is thousands of shades.. and original shades as Ferrari red, neon orange, Rivera blue etc.. once completed it lasts for lifetime..
I had a friend in the chemical business, he got me a 10 gallon pail of IPA back in 1984. Still using it. But Scalemates does NOT show every model ever produced. Close but not all. I've sent them updates on several old ones I have in my stash to update their database. If you have something they don't list, send them the details and they will add it to their DB.
I get the liquid latex from hobby craft for making my casing moulds I've got bottles of it takes ages to go off though so wouldn't use it for masking! It's the same bottle same stuff
@0:35 as a good substitute for Tamiya extra thin, you can either buy a can of Tamiya Airbrush cleaner, which is almost exactly the same. Or buy a can of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)
I purchased a gallon of 99% Isopropyl alcohol for less then twenty dollars at a hardware store close to me and I also use denatured alcohol for many clean ups. Including cleaning brushes when I use acrylic paints. I also find that swap meets or hobby trade shows are good for being able to buy hard to find kits.
@@cnfuzz I've used IPA to clean a large variety of paints from my airbrush and never encountered an issue like this, what paint have you experienced the clotting with?
@@ModellingWeekly i use amongst others ak interactive , works fine with their thinner (but have to airbrush at low psi) , reacts with IPA , their thinner also contains IPA but small percentage.
@@cnfuzz ah, fair enough. I can't speak for acrylics other than Vallejo and ammo, but I've tried using IPA to clean my airbrush after using a large range of lacquers and it works pretty reliably for them
I love Scalemates for the research, but I've found that if you try to buy from the sellers through site, the kit might be "back ordered" or out of stock. Plus, the price advertised through Scalemates doesn't always include shipping. So check carefully.
First tip is the winner for me as I usually build something rc related in styrene, which is the same material as in model kits. Now I'm looking up who sells cellulose thinners in my area 🙂
Any automobile body shop supplier will have lacquer (cellulose) thinners. Additionally, any hardware store will have it as well but the quality wont be nearly as good. Then there is always AMAZON
@@MrCaprinut They may have a smaller qty as a spray gun cleaner. Or then there is a local body shop that might sell a 1/2 liter for a small amount of money. I used to buy this stuff in gallon containers just for automotive primers. Good luck
If anyone is ever in doubt about the products they’re using, more so industrial solvents etc, then it’s best to refer to COSHH, or the manufacturers safety data sheets. Over the years I’v used many different kinds of solvents and alcohols, the odours never bothered me, as they’re always used in open or well ventilated environments. However, I found that using the same products at home, albeit in much smaller quantities, can have the fumes running right through the home. I can assure you, wives can get very irate...🥴
Great tips, but White-Spirits doesn't always works with all enamels and you get clots, so it's better to test. For pin-washes, dot filters, etc.. I use cheap artist oil paint in tube, thinned with lighter fluid (for Zippo, it can be a different brand), it's a little bit more expensive than White-Spirits or Turpentine but it dries faster, can still be corrected after drying and is still way cheaper than any modeling brand...
If you use alcohol to clean your airbrush, be sure to rinse it out afterwards with soapy water. The residual alcohol will dry and crack any rubber seals in your airbrush if you just leave it.
I buy good quality artists acrylics, then thin them down for use. They seem to leave a smoother finish than model specific acrylics. That and I save the plastic cans from the zyn snus I use to be recycled as paint pots.
i used windex, IPA and water as an airbrush cleaner, some of the Vallejo paints can turn to clumpy mush with neat IPA, the Windex mix seems to get over this
"Rubbing alcohol" contains a small percentage of mineral oil so that when applied to skin it won't dry out the skin. This oil can present some issues with some paints. "1, 1 Propanol", aka "Isopropanol" is the same without the oil.
You can mix windshield washer fluid with some distilled water and a little bit of isopropyl alcohol and a couple drops of dish soap for a very cheap and effective airbrush cleaner even cheaper than just straight iso
@@ModellingWeekly thank you...any tips on how to use white paint without getting streaks in it....regardless of brand of paint i have tried i have thinned it ,be it enamil or acrylic and used the correct thinners but for some god for saken reason i still get streaks in the paint...i dont own an airbrush (or have the facilities to even use 1) so i have to brush paint.
Great tips, thx a lot for sharing! I use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as an alternative to their Extra Thin, works great and so much cheaper than their glue. Edit: I'll try isopropyl to clean the airbrush, that will save some money. A beginner question if you don't mind: how long can you keep one of those big liquid latex bottles once you opened it? won't it dry, wasting whatever is left?
Glad you found the video helpful! It'll depend how long it's left open for at a time, though if it is only kept open briefly at a time, and stored in a dry place, I believe the shelf life can be upwards of a year. Hope this helps!
@@ModellingWeekly Thx! Yep, what I thought: I won't be able to use that much in a year. Or maybe you have other uses for this products (could be worth another video ;))
is you want to make masking (for camo o really big areas) for cheap, and washable (for acrilics), you can use silly puty, the paint wont stick to it, you can use it paint , remove the putty, and wash it with water
Great video! One question, what about vinegar for decal softener? I swear that the micro set blue bottle smells like straight up vinegar, but i could be wrong
Alternative to cellulose thinner is MEK Methylethylketone (I think that's how it's spelt?) It is basically tamiya extra thin and 500ml cost me £6 on amazon...
It's also extremely toxic. Don't get it anywhere near your skin or eyes. Wear a respirator with an VOC filter when you're using it. Imo your better of using TET over MEK.
Some great tips, many years ago I did use M.E.K, Methal Ethal Ketone ( I think that's correct, I did have four litres at one time, but gave it away when I moved overseas.
Bought many a vintage kit from Kingkit so many times and have NEVER been disapionted with their service...HIGHLY recommend them if you are in the market for a vintage or oop (out of production) kit.
@@ModellingWeeklyi have 2 stashs...my "to build" stash which is only current releases and my "collectors vintage kit stash" which i will NEVER build and the vast majority of it (90% ) was bought from Kingkit.
A modeller after `me` own heart, adhesive's, thinners, tools and whatever are only as good as the hands that wield them. Try spraying/thinning (as if its not thin enough) Humbrol (before the fire it was `Magic` paint,) with cellulose and artists oils too. In addition speed up oil paint drying times, use Terebine dryers. Finally store tins and jars upside down to save evaporation of carrier solvent. Take care.
A lot of Heller products are dreadful too. Poor moulding and lots of flash, especially on their plastic figures. I believe they re-use a lot of very worn moulds.
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A pro tip from modelling products manufacturer regarding white spirit guys! Always look for low aromatic (dearomatized) white spirit. Study the labels when in doubt. The thing is the higher the aromatics content the stronger the solvent but high potency white spirit will attack paint coats even acrylic ones. When in hardware store there are many types to choose from and you may stumble upon industrial strength types which are OK for contractors but not us modellers - twice the dead ache and paint gets attacked if you pick too strong a kind. Happy modelling! Chris
Fantastic sound advice! Thank you for your support Chris 👍
@@ModellingWeekly You got it!
So would Sansador by Winsor & Newton count as a low oudour white spirit? I'm not sure of the chemical makeup.
SAys on the description that it's low odor and slow evaporation, so it's probably mixed with another agent, so should be less potent.@@burningphoneix
Yo tengo un alijo que no podría terminar de hacer, ni en 7 vidas.☹ La acaparación es otro tema a tratar😓
For those in the US, cellulose thinner is called lacquer thinner on our side of the pond. White spirits is also known as mineral spirits.
Many thanks for clarifying mate!
Actually most modelling lacquer thinners (besides the mr color self leveller) are _not_ cellulose thinners, specifically because it’s such cancerous horrible stuff. It’s really bad for you!
You lost me at 'pond'... Yain't takin my fishin spot is ye??
Some places call it lacquer thinner over here as well
Mineral spirits is the keyword I'm looking for. I forgot what it call, so it hard to find in online store.
I buy sets of pastel chalks and use them instead of powdered pigments sold by modeling suppliers. They're very inexpensive and can be blended to any color you need. Rub them over a bit of screening or wire strainer to make powders.
Nice!
This is how we used to do it in the 1980s.
tattoo inks are also really cheap nowadays.
@@chromedog68 Was that a thing then?
@@lunhil12 yup. Excellent. Bought a tray of colored and one of greys and black and have had them for over 20 years.
The best way to save on kit expenses, and by far the most effective way to cut your modelling costs, is to stop hoarding a stash :) Even though they may be over-priced, I find my consumables to be but a drop in the ocean of money I've poured on kits I never get around to build. But, that's probably just me 😇
I’m only able more than a single thumbs up 👍, but this needs more 👍
If I did a kit and purchase at a time…
Hoarding?
Is that when you far too many kits and projects?
😳😳😳I believe I’m a hoarder😳😳😳
You're most likely right haha
Same here 😊
Building what you buy and only buying what you build, is hard but much more fulfilling. If you are buying secondary parts or add on’s buy them when you buy the kit otherwise they are always sold out and for me that how most of my kits end up in the hoard not quite there. Sometimes just build that imperfect build i promise it will be okay
I liked most of these, but one to carefully consider is buying kits off eBay or Amazon etc: Yes they may be cheaper, but check the postage and taxes. It might be cheaper to use your local model shop if you have one.
Even if it’s not, I’m happy to pay a premium of 10-20% on a kit to keep the shop open so it’s there when I need it. I understand not everyone will be in this position, and cost will be a major factor in their decisions, but I’ll give a few examples of why local is better: 1) you get a “short shot” kit where the plastic has not filled the mould properly.-Early Airfix Sea Fury kits had this problem a couple of years back.- Who’s going to look after you better? The local model shop, or the seller in China/India/America on eBay? - in many countries you’re expected to deal with the seller not the manufacturer in claims like this.
What happens if you buy this kit from a private seller on eBay? You can raise a dispute, but if they sell it as unopened NOS and sold as seen, you’re on a hiding to nothing.
2) In Australia, lay by is really common in the retail sector. Can’t afford what you want?, minimum of 10% down, and you have between 6 weeks and three months to pay it off with regular payments. - timeframe depends on the store. I know you can use Afterpay and the like, but they don’t let you skip a week or make a half payment because the dog was sick, or you needed to replace punctured tyre on the car. Don’t take the piss, and build a relationship with the shop. I now have three local shops that are happy to order stuff in for me and put it on lay by, are happy to be a little “elastic” with the time frame in paying the kit off depending on its value, and let me phone them up and make payments on items on lay by when I can’t get into the store.
3) As mentioned above, the shops I deal with are happy to order stuff in for me, and if it’s not from a supplier they deal with, they will look at alternatives. EG: Heller don’t seem to have an official importer In Australia, but I want several of their kits, and one shop is happy to look into this, and will buy within the trade from another country or do the sums and see if it’s worth them becoming an official importer.
4) Local shops can be a ready source of help and advice, or even discounts. One of the ones I use has several staff who are members of the state modellers association, others who are into the R/C car or aircraft clubs, and they offer a 10% discount to members of these clubs. I make my annual club membership fees back several times over.
5) When you really need that pot of paint/tube of glue/masking tape TODAY! they are there. None of this paying extra for a prime membership to get it tomorrow* (*terms and conditions apply, it might actually be a fortnight on Thursday until it arrives. If you don’t live in the city)
DON’T GET ME WRONG! I’m not saying don’t use eBay, I use it myself for stuff I can’t get In Australia. What I’m saying is if you CAN use a local model shop, please do so as much as possible. If you don’t have a local shop, or it’s too far away to get to easily (I’m going bush soon, so my nearest shop will be 200km away) then please consider using a bricks and mortar store in your area/country over a drop shipper or on line only place that might not even be in your country. Keep people in jobs, and they will keep you in models!
Oh for sure, if the local store has what you need, buy from them- the problem is that the majority of people dont have a local store to support in the first place (even before the advent of the internet, they weren't exactly commonplace)
Really old school tricks and tips, no news here.
Using cellulose thinner as a glue has been there for ever. BUT, no, it's not as strong as Tamiya extra thin, it doesn't have the same grip, specially at first, while extra thin not only dries quickly, it does grip since the beginning. If you're ok with that go ahead, but you have to know all the facts and how differently those works.
And very important, liquid latex masks rots over time... I've never bought such a big bottle of masking liquid as shown there, always 17ml bottles, and yet they do rot over time, you don't use that much all the time so it rots in the bottle. Sometimes it's already rotten in the bottle when you buy it because plain shelf time. It works despite the stinkiness of it (if it's not dried...), but a smelly job it is to mask with rotten latex. If you buy the bigger bottle, 1 litre of rotten liquid latex has to stink really well... bear that in mind.
Brilliant tips . As a returning modeller I has been shocked at the cost of modelling products. Many thanks
The last three and half years in the USA all products have really went up.
One tip I learned from MarklinofSweeden was to purchase one sheet of corrugated plastic for your scale. Then use it as a mold and apply Elmer's glue on top (a generous coat) and wait for it to dry. Then peel off the sheet of glue and use it as you would the plastic corrugated plastic. Cheers from eastern TN
Weird. This video is old yet I come here to offer a tip and see a fellow Tennessean has commented only two days ago. Clarksville for me. My tip: don’t pay for the finer sandpaper grits for polishing. I’ve used cardboard and even notebook paper for years and it works beautifully. Try different types. I usually finish with notebook paper.
What?
IPA can be further diluted in water for airbush cleaning. 50-50 watered down practically retains its properties. Very good tips.
The water must be filtered? Does the temperature matter?
@@milenafighter8120 No and no and if its 99% ipa you can dilute 66% water to 33 ipa no problem.
Plenty of good youtube vids on making own thinners
I use 90% IPA in a 2:1 mix with water for general water based acrylic paint thinning, cleaning my air brush, wiping grease off models, my specs and the screen on my iPad as I watch videos like this. - also works as disinfectant when you cut yourself with a modelling knife. Stings like fuuuuuudge, but better than a septic wound.
I also buy IPA in larger volumes for all sorts of stuff, like cleaning electronics PCBs or modelling stuff. IPA is also extremely efficient at removing hot glue.
Aceton is also widely used to weld ABS together.
Also IPA will clear all paint from painted models (I can only say about acrylic paints) and will also separate parts glued with their thin cement as well.. I had paint issues with a Ferrari F1 model that is no longer in stock that I was able to dip it in IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner and found out it took all paint off and separated the glue bits which was also an unexpected good result.
IPA is something i have indeed been using to clean my airbrush (and a thinner on occasion). White spirit is my go-to for enamel and oils as well :D Scalemates is the MVP of modelling research too lol
Indeed indeed!
Great! Thank you so much for sharing these money-saving tips with us. I can definitely use them.👍
No problem!
You can also use Tamiya Air Brush Cleaner as Tamiya Extra Thin. It's the exact same product but a 5th of the price.
My understanding was that it's similar, just slightly differently fomulations. They do work the same though.
IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner is absolutely amazing. I clean my glass pipettes there along with the airbrush and everything always works like new.
Great work, was not aware the cellulose thinner could be used as cement. But I do have a job lot of that and isopropyl for cleaning my airbrush, depending on what paint I'm using.
Also, eBay for anything and everything. Tools, paints, kits, even stuff outside of the hobby. It takes 2mins to check prices on there before jumping one way or the other
Wow!!
I am a returnee after some 45 years so a newbie really. This was such an insight …..thank you
Bob
England
I'm glad I could be of use! Have fun back in the hobby mate!
Welcome back!
Very interesting video, thanks! I've also seen that the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (I think it was Cleaner?) is the same thing as the liquid cement, due to them having to put the chemical sheet and it's basically identical.
I recently bought a "pre owned" hobbyboss 1/18 me262 from kingkit at basically half the retail price just because the box had a few creases! Absolutey bargains to be had on here guys! 👍
My fav DIY airbrush cleaner recipe I got from airbrush artist:
By weight:
600g of winter windshield washer fluid (amona free)
300g distilled water
100g IPA
40 drops of glycerin.
Works like a charm
And 1 drop of nectar extract picked up by nubile virgins at midnight on full moon nights. 😋
@@raphanunu6912 Ahh, my nectar was always clumpy because I forgot to adjust for daylight savings (and I was never sure about Bertha, she's very friendly with those woodland fauns)
@@Finn-pe7uj : Nubile or virgin ? Noen of them, too friendly !
Tip number 6 would be if you need ABS plastic based putty/filler, just take mustard glass jar with good seal metal lid, wash it, put in some ABS scraps for instance broken to beyond repair appliances in your chosen color and pour in acetone. Let it sit for couple of days depending on size of the peaces, mix it and add ether plastic or acetone to get consistency you want. Its better to put on thin coats but you can put thick coat and use lighter to burn the acetone off but it will puff out since outer surface hardens trapping the vapors acetone so needs to pressed back in, but it has worked wonders in some projects. If it dries too much just add acetone back and here we go again after few days of dissolving. Acetone is dirt cheap and plastic is free so there is nice essentially free putty to use.
Sprue goo! Fantastic stuff indeed
I tried doing this, but the plastic settled back to the bottom of the bottle and the colour seems to have separated. Is this simply because there's too much acetone?
I'm english and I never knew about Kingkit! Nice tips!
Hannant's is a pretty good store too, and Wonderland Models for UK based people!
Thanks for the tips. Let me do one addition, not only check Scale Mates for the cheaper shop, but also one cheaper of the history of the tool. A lot of the production tools were often sold between the kit producer. Sometimes you find kits much cheaper in a shop by an old producer, than if you will buy it by the actuel producer.
Very good pointer indeed!
Thank you for your informative and helpful videos. I particularly wanted to thank you for your clear articulation and concise explanations in clear well pronounced English. Thank you Alan
Thank you :) it's my pleasure
IPA is also good for cleaning model railway wheels and track, as well as helping break up surface tension when ballasting.
Also, extra-hold hairspray works as a good replacement for layering spray when doing scenics like Static Grass.
What a great video. Buying kits from model shows and swaps meets is also a great way to save money. I once got an airfix 1/48 meteor at one for 25 bucks (14 pounds)!
Thanks mate! Indeed, many deals to be had in those places - that meteor deal is fantastic!!!
Thanks for a great video! Definitely going to try some. Only thing I found is that white spirits from the hardware store can be too hot for some paints. You can get “artist white spirits” which is more expensive but less hot and works better. It’s still cheaper than the “special” hobby brands and 0.5L will last quite a while… 👍
No problem! The artists white spirit sounds like a good investment 👍
I totally agree 👍
Interesting. What do you mean by “too hot”?
Yes and less stinking !
I've been using lacquer thinner and/or acetone or solvent mixes for years. The problem I have, and have always had, is fine application. I always manage to get too much, and then there are fingerprints, and/or melted styrene to contend with. I had bought a "touch n flow" at one time at a model show, never got around to using it, then found out the needle was bent, and there was a vacuum bulb that was supposed to go with it that I didn't have, and just haven't gotten around to doing any research to find another, if they even exist anymore. Most of what I work on now is resin figures, so using solvents is almost a moot point. But I do have some styrene kits to get going on, so I need something.
My solution has just been using an empty extra thin bottle, with it's handy little brush applicator :)
Great tips. IPA is good stuff. Had no idea about the option for Tamya's extra thin. Cheers!
IPA is liquid gold haha. Glad you found the tips helpful!
Good stuff. By the way, Tamiya's extra thin plastic cement is 100% the identical content to its Airbrush Thinner. I don't know how it compares to cellulose thinner in regards to price, but their airbrush thinner comes in a big bottle and is like three times cheaper per volume than the extra thin.
Very good pointer! Glad you liked the vid
Don’t you mean airbrush cleaner? Surely it can’t be the same as the thinner.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 Oops, yes that's what I meant! Thank you for pointing it out.
The plastic cement as the same two ingredients as the airbrush CLEANER, except on the labels it either states 50/50 or 49/51 mixture. That 1% won't actually make a difference and is just a legal loophole so they can claim they are different products.
Yes, I saw a TH-cam video on this a few days ago which showed the chemical hazard sheet for both products which confirms that they are identical. Good news, unless you live in the UK, because here, it seems impossible to buy Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner other than as an extremely overpriced import which defeats the object.
Great info, thanks for sharing, I am getting back into modeling and every dollar saved means more kits!
Precisely haha! Glad you found it helpful 👍
@@ModellingWeekly I did. =)
If you go through a lot of isopropyl you can go to farm supply stores and buy it by the 2 litre jug for super cheap.
modelling cement is pretty much mostly acetone, which you can buy by bulk from hardware stores. if you find your regular cement drying up, you can add this solvent to it until it's back to the regular viscosity
IPA is great for regular paint but NOT metallics, the polar nature of the alcohol will cause problems with the metallic particles, use modeling thinners (which is toluene if you can find them)
Very good point, forgot to mention in the vid. Proper thinners definitely recommended for metallics
I restore antique farm tractors as a hobby/business. Many items ( acetone, toluene, laquer thinner, enamel reducer, sandpaper, etc.) can be found in the paint and body repair section of an auto parts store. NAPA, Carquest and the like. Worth browsing.
If we’re talking Tamiya Extra Thin, it’s only 50% acetone, the other 50% being butyl acetate.
Good tips. In Australia isopropyl alcohol can be a bit expensive but Bunnings sell a product called “Shellite” which is basically zippo lighter fuel at a fraction of the price, works great for cleaning your airbrush if you paint with acrylics and many other uses including lighter fluid 😂
Sounds fantastic haha! I'll have to have a look for some lighter fluid here in the UK, have heard good things about it 👍
@@ModellingWeekly I think “shellite” might be a brand name I’m not sure, but you can buy a litre of Shellite for what a 125ml can of zippo lighter fluid costs.
An excellent substitute for liquid glue is also the MEK (MethylEthylKetone). Chip, fast and durable bonding. Is also excellent cleaner for use on brushes, airbrushes and tools. Dilutes also modelling puttys very well.
Fantastic pointer!
MEK is highly toxic. Particularly if used indoor, in a poorly ventilated area. If you think cutting 10-15 years of your life is worth gluing plastic. please do so.
@@sailormatlac9114 The toxicity of MEK is similar to that of the cellulose thinνer which proposed in the video and that of the commercial liquid plastic glues. All the plastic glues' composition are based on harmful solvents.
I have used MEK for more than 5 years. Keep the lid on or covering the bottle as you would with TET of any other liquid glue to keep the fumes down. Revell Contacta takes ages for the smell to dissipate.
Very informative and much more helpful than youtubers that shill for hobby products.
That was the number 1 priority, so I'm really glad you could find use in it :)) yeah, shilling products (imo) just seems morally wrong. Sometimes I get sent stuff for review, but I always make sure to have an extremely neutral, balanced opinion
Another to add to the discussion. Go to the local automotive supply store. The various sand papers for working with car bodies is great. Dense sponges, soft - backed sand pads, blocks, and high quality sheets in all grades. If you need a specific shape or "stick" just super-glue it to some cheap metal stock. Many of the types are perfect as is. Buying the various sticks to me is lesser quality. This is a boat-load less expensive too.
I found sticking sandpaper to popsicle sticks really money saving and the round ends can have the grit written on them with black marker
Right, and generally all materials and chemicals used for car painting can be used in model building, paints, solvents, masking tapes, etc.
Tamiya airbrush cleaner is the same as extra thin but about 6 times cheaper by volume. 🙂
If you mix 50/100 windex/Glass cleaner 50/100 iPA and use instead of expensive cleaners for airbrushing,brushes cleanup,paint spill"acryllic only" and area cleanup and tidiness.
I also use a mix of 60 percent IPA 20 H2O and three drop of glycerin instead of buying airbrush thinner works with all acrylic paint but a few.
I like your studied approach to saving money on supplies. They all make good sense to me and I will be trying them. I subscribed. Best wishes from the hills of Virginia, Cork and Family
Many thanks, it means a lot mate! I look forward to putting out more content :)
At least for U.S. buyers, be aware we have a couple of choices in purchasing IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol), a 70% solution, and a 90%+ solution. The stronger stuff is better for thinning and airbrush cleaning, but the cheaper 70% stuff is fine for general de-greasing wipe-downs. Hope this is helpful to someone!
You can also use the IPA alcohol to wash and de-grease your models before painting OR to remove screwed up paint. Works best on acrylics. Enamels need to be fresh, otherwise they won't was off.
I use emulsion paints for my models, they are ideal for brush painting,the results are excellent.Try them and I thing they also work very good for airbrush painting.
There are many benefits to supporting your favored hobby shops, at least for a portion of your needs. They can frequently help you out when you are in a bind.
The chemicals which we use in our hobby are often - but not always - a small cost relative to the purchase of kits, paints, and scenery supplies.
That said, the thinners for acrylic painting are marked up a great deal, and especially if you are spray painting large surfaces, or are building large objects from acrylic / ABS, you can save some money by venturing into the world of other sources for your chemicals, including the plastics supply houses that support the trophies and sign making businesses.
NOTE: While we *typically* use small quantities that need only some basic safety precautions, these are industrial chemicals (as are many other household products) and they need to be treated with respect, because they can make you very sick, injure you badly, or even kill you in some unpleasant fashions if you are careless or stupid... or ignorant... chemistry and physics don't care about you, you need to take care of them.
Commercial acrylic paint thinners for airbrushing are typically grain alcohol (ethanol) - denatured with a bit of methanol (wood alcohol) in the USA, diluted with deionized water, and given a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent (sodium dodecyl sulfate) as a surfactant to promote wetting.
You absolutely do *NOT* want any oil based lubricants in your airbrush, as they will ruin your finish on your painted parts.
You can use drug store grade rubbing alcohol - 70 % by volume isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol, IPA (but not India Pale Ale!), iPOH to clean your airbrush without ill effect unless the manufacturer is using unusual rubber compounds in the O-ring seals.
70% iPOH also works well as a thinner for acrylic paints when you want a flat/matte finish, as on a military camouflage pattern.
91% or more iPOH does a very good job of stripping acrylic paints without damaging styrene plastics, although it might damage acrylic (PMMA, Plexiglas, Perspex) so proceed with caution.
When solvent welding ABS or straight up acrylic plastic - or joining the two, as is often done when working with Plastruct shapes, you need a solvent which contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane) your basic styerene solvents which are mostly acetone will not swell (soften) these polymers, although they are safer to use, and quite good for plain polystyrene of HIPS (the clear PS resin used quite often for windows and aircraft canopies).
Lacquer thinner in the US contains various petroleum distillates, including xylene, or at least it did. A custom painter working at my nearest - and favorite - model train store died for illness caused by breathing in too much lacquer paint and thinners from airbrushing without a fume hood or respirator rated for organic vapors. Back more than 20 years ago... the hobbyists just didn't know any better then. He also didn't wear solvent proof gloves, and routinely cleaned his hands with lacquer thinner.
Here in my country there are no hobby shops so you have to bring everything being delayed and with high import costs (even more than the product) I appreciate these options
Can you recommend any non-toxic liquid styrene solvents that might be used as a cement. In the past I used Plastruct's non-toxic liquid Weldene but unfortunately the company no longer manufacture it anymore. To my knowledge, the only other non-toxic cement available is from Testors. Unfortunately, these cements are poor quality.
@@calessel3139 A solvent that will "swell" = soften polystyrene such that you can glue two pieces together is unlikely to be non-toxic.
@@chemech I've done a bit of research into Plastruct's Weldene. It's seems to be composed entirely of the non toxic citric oil called Limonene which, in sufficient concentrations, is a known solvent of polystyrene. In fact, some industries use it to completely dissolve polystyrene in order to recycle the material. It's not without hazards though, its highly flammable and a skin & eye irritant. However, it's far less toxic than any other polystyrene solvent.
Another thing I been doing now is buying artist acrylic paint instead of airbrush paint by those big company. It is so much cheaper with the volume and I honestly can't feel any difference. Easily thin down with some home made IPA thinner that I learned from other TH-cam video. Grips on my resin kit strong without problem
This was very helpful! Thanks for sharing this.
I found screen wash for cars a good airbrush cleaner - an old plastic milk container with water and screen wash does a great job on acrylics
Sounds good! Thanks for the pointer 👍
One of the greatest saving to me is using automotive pu paints.. can buy loose quantity as 50 ml.. costs 20 Rupees.. another greatest advantage is thousands of shades.. and original shades as Ferrari red, neon orange, Rivera blue etc.. once completed it lasts for lifetime..
I had a friend in the chemical business, he got me a 10 gallon pail of IPA back in 1984. Still using it. But Scalemates does NOT show every model ever produced. Close but not all. I've sent them updates on several old ones I have in my stash to update their database. If you have something they don't list, send them the details and they will add it to their DB.
Thanks for the useful tip!
I get the liquid latex from hobby craft for making my casing moulds I've got bottles of it takes ages to go off though so wouldn't use it for masking! It's the same bottle same stuff
@0:35 as a good substitute for Tamiya extra thin, you can either buy a can of Tamiya Airbrush cleaner, which is almost exactly the same. Or buy a can of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)
Fantastic substitutes there 👍
IPA is great to break down the tension of liquid, like paint. But it's hard on brush bristles, drying them out. Use cheap brushes when using it.
Good point!
I purchased a gallon of 99% Isopropyl alcohol for less then twenty dollars at a hardware store close to me and I also use denatured alcohol for many clean ups. Including cleaning brushes when I use acrylic paints. I also find that swap meets or hobby trade shows are good for being able to buy hard to find kits.
Perfection! It's fantastc stuff indeed
@@ModellingWeekly you forgot to mention IPA strength % and that chances it reacts with non alcohol acrylics are high turning them into snotty gob
@@cnfuzz I've used IPA to clean a large variety of paints from my airbrush and never encountered an issue like this, what paint have you experienced the clotting with?
@@ModellingWeekly i use amongst others ak interactive , works fine with their thinner (but have to airbrush at low psi) , reacts with IPA , their thinner also contains IPA but small percentage.
@@cnfuzz ah, fair enough. I can't speak for acrylics other than Vallejo and ammo, but I've tried using IPA to clean my airbrush after using a large range of lacquers and it works pretty reliably for them
Brilliant tip on cellulose thinners as glue! Personally, I've found Tamiya extra thin to be very weak.
Indeed! Cellulose thinners are both cheaper and make a stronger joint :)
Mr hobby super power is better
I love Scalemates for the research, but I've found that if you try to buy from the sellers through site, the kit might be "back ordered" or out of stock. Plus, the price advertised through Scalemates doesn't always include shipping. So check carefully.
This is a good point, must always check around before you purchase
Very nice tips to save some money. Thanks for sharing.
No problem :)
Another tip from me: to rescue your hardening Tamiya superglue by adding some acetone into the container. Haven’t tried how it bonds, though.
Solid tip! Thanks mate
What a great video!! So many tips here that I didn't know about. Nice work!
Thanks very much BM! Glad you enjoyed + found it helpful :D
First tip is the winner for me as I usually build something rc related in styrene, which is the same material as in model kits.
Now I'm looking up who sells cellulose thinners in my area 🙂
Any automobile body shop supplier will have lacquer (cellulose) thinners. Additionally, any hardware store will have it as well but the quality wont be nearly as good. Then there is always AMAZON
@@jdwht2455 I do know someone that do own a automotive body shop supplier, but seems they only sell 25 litres. I will ask.
@@MrCaprinut They may have a smaller qty as a spray gun cleaner. Or then there is a local body shop that might sell a 1/2 liter for a small amount of money. I used to buy this stuff in gallon containers just for automotive primers. Good luck
If anyone is ever in doubt about the products they’re using, more so industrial solvents etc, then it’s best to refer to COSHH, or the manufacturers safety data sheets.
Over the years I’v used many different kinds of solvents and alcohols, the odours never bothered me, as they’re always used in open or well ventilated environments.
However, I found that using the same products at home, albeit in much smaller quantities, can have the fumes running right through the home.
I can assure you, wives can get very irate...🥴
Now, if you can find a reasonably priced alternative for the w-a-a-a-y over priced Tamiya 10ml paints, especially the acrylics
That would be fantastic! I'll look into it haha
Great tips, but White-Spirits doesn't always works with all enamels and you get clots, so it's better to test.
For pin-washes, dot filters, etc.. I use cheap artist oil paint in tube, thinned with lighter fluid (for Zippo, it can be a different brand), it's a little bit more expensive than White-Spirits or Turpentine but it dries faster, can still be corrected after drying and is still way cheaper than any modeling brand...
Fantastic, thanks for the extra pointers!
If you use alcohol to clean your airbrush, be sure to rinse it out afterwards with soapy water. The residual alcohol will dry and crack any rubber seals in your airbrush if you just leave it.
Yup, gotta be careful with standard rubber seals 👍
I buy good quality artists acrylics, then thin them down for use. They seem to leave a smoother finish than model specific acrylics. That and I save the plastic cans from the zyn snus I use to be recycled as paint pots.
Well, a simple thank you is not enough, but wow, thank you sir!
No problem :)
90-99% iso alcohol is great for all kinds of modeling stuff. I use it a lot. Best airbrush cleaner I’ve used for acrylic paints. 👍
It's absolutely brilliant indeed!
Try Windex or similar glasscleaner with alcohol and tenside, works even better on acrylic paints.
@@steffenrosmus9177 really? Hmm I did not know that one. I will have to give it a try
@@powersmodelgarage yep, it is the same stuff sold as airbrush cleaner for quadruple the price of simple glass cleaner.
AND its what ingredient is in Lens cleaner or spectacles cleaner . Like from an Optometrist and citadel over priced per quantity
i used windex, IPA and water as an airbrush cleaner, some of the Vallejo paints can turn to clumpy mush with neat IPA, the Windex mix seems to get over this
Fantastic heads up!
"Rubbing alcohol" contains a small percentage of mineral oil so that when applied to skin it won't dry out the skin. This oil can present some issues with some paints. "1, 1 Propanol", aka "Isopropanol" is the same without the oil.
Isopropyl alcohol as stated in the video is the same exact chemical as isopropanol :)
You can mix windshield washer fluid with some distilled water and a little bit of isopropyl alcohol and a couple drops of dish soap for a very cheap and effective airbrush cleaner even cheaper than just straight iso
Sounds good! I'll give it a shot 👍
Perfect video, extremely helpful. Thanks a lot for sharing )
No problem :)
Petrol lighter fluid works as white spirit aswell if you run out amd have a bottle in your cupboard use it! Works great
Fantastic tip!
"Isopropyl alcohol" is also available as "Methyl Hydrate" in North America. It's relatively cheap comparted to isopropyl.
👌
I hope you found at least some of the tips useful! Thanks for watching!
Found them all useful.👍
I found them all pretty useful. Thanks
@@damien5748 I'm very glad!
@@matthewmclay6465 No problem at all!
@@ModellingWeekly thank you...any tips on how to use white paint without getting streaks in it....regardless of brand of paint i have tried i have thinned it ,be it enamil or acrylic and used the correct thinners but for some god for saken reason i still get streaks in the paint...i dont own an airbrush (or have the facilities to even use 1) so i have to brush paint.
Great tips, thx a lot for sharing!
I use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as an alternative to their Extra Thin, works great and so much cheaper than their glue. Edit: I'll try isopropyl to clean the airbrush, that will save some money.
A beginner question if you don't mind: how long can you keep one of those big liquid latex bottles once you opened it? won't it dry, wasting whatever is left?
Glad you found the video helpful! It'll depend how long it's left open for at a time, though if it is only kept open briefly at a time, and stored in a dry place, I believe the shelf life can be upwards of a year. Hope this helps!
@@ModellingWeekly Thx! Yep, what I thought: I won't be able to use that much in a year. Or maybe you have other uses for this products (could be worth another video ;))
@@therebeginner not a bad idea! Casting stuff comes to mind ;)
is you want to make masking (for camo o really big areas) for cheap, and washable (for acrilics), you can use silly puty, the paint wont stick to it, you can use it paint , remove the putty, and wash it with water
Great tips! To replace the liquid cement you can also use ethyl acetate.
Very true indeed!
Or you can even use Tamiya Arbrush Thinner. It is basicly the same components, cement is 51/49, thinner is 50/50
@@einfachnura1421 cleaner not thinner right?
Welcome back, Quick Kits! Long time no see (or hear).
Not quite lol, our friend QK has surrendered himself to Warhammer haha!
You can also thin Tamiya paints with IPA.
Great tips !
I use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as a replacement for Extra Thin. 10x cheaper. 😉
That's another good substitute indeed!
Great tip! On my to buy list now 🙂
have a smell of Isopropyl its the same as the brush cleaner stuff
For your US viewers, MEK is another great cement alternative. You can get a quart for 10 bucks and works better than Tamiya.
Fantastic tip, thanks!
Excellent tips, thanks for sharing!
Great video!
One question, what about vinegar for decal softener? I swear that the micro set blue bottle smells like straight up vinegar, but i could be wrong
Thanks! I'm not entirely sure, though I know what you mean and it's worth experimenting!
Alternative to cellulose thinner is MEK Methylethylketone (I think that's how it's spelt?) It is basically tamiya extra thin and 500ml cost me £6 on amazon...
Can you send me the link? That sounds like the dream
It's also extremely toxic. Don't get it anywhere near your skin or eyes. Wear a respirator with an VOC filter when you're using it. Imo your better of using TET over MEK.
Very interesting and useful tips!
You have a like and a new subscriber!
Some great tips, many years ago I did use M.E.K, Methal Ethal Ketone ( I think that's correct, I did have four litres at one time, but gave it away when I moved overseas.
Total Awesomeness,
Thanks!
No problem! My pleasure :)
Bought many a vintage kit from Kingkit so many times and have NEVER been disapionted with their service...HIGHLY recommend them if you are in the market for a vintage or oop (out of production) kit.
100% - fantastic marketplace
@@ModellingWeeklyi have 2 stashs...my "to build" stash which is only current releases and my "collectors vintage kit stash" which i will NEVER build and the vast majority of it (90% ) was bought from Kingkit.
Fully agree. Kingkit is def worth a look.
Great video my friend. Best money saver video I have seen. Thank you
A modeller after `me` own heart, adhesive's, thinners, tools and whatever are only as good as the hands that wield them. Try spraying/thinning (as if its not thin enough) Humbrol (before the fire it was `Magic` paint,) with cellulose and artists oils too.
In addition speed up oil paint drying times, use Terebine dryers.
Finally store tins and jars upside down to save evaporation of carrier solvent.
Take care.
In Canada we can get Methyl Ethyl Ketone at Canadian Tire. I haven't used "model" glue for years.
Modeling weekly ASMR and audiobooks would break the internet
Might give it a go one day
Thank you gonna take some of these tips onboard
Some fantastic tips here! Many thanks for sharing!
No problem! My pleasure :)
Excellent suggestions. Thank you!
My pleasure!
I also have another tip, avoid Revell products, especially the kits 😂😂😂
A lot of Heller products are dreadful too. Poor moulding and lots of flash, especially on their plastic figures.
I believe they re-use a lot of very worn moulds.
Thak you so much! Very Nice Tutorial
I have been using thinners for my enamel paints, i never knew that we could use it as a liquid cement for the plamos..
Another tip. To mask tiny things, i use window colors from my kids ;)
Great video and some brilliant tips 👍
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful :))
Pure gold, sir! 🙂
Good concise advice - thanks.
My pleasure