15 Supermarket Modelling Supplies! | Scale Modelling on a Budget
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hey guys, Modelling Weekly here! In today's video, I'll be exploring some of the modelling products that you can buy in your local Tesco for next to nothing, allowing you to improve your modelling game. Enjoy!
Wet palette video: • 5 Useful Tools That EV...
Thanks for watching the video! If there is anything you want to know, or anything you want me to know feel free to ask!
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Bicarbonate of soda (baking aisle) mixed with super glue sets rock hard instantly. Good for filling slightly larger gaps & sands down well.
👍👍
can get even stronger bond using soft ash from fireplace @@ModellingWeekly Carbon is one sticky atom, that is why it is the heart of organic organisms as it blends with just about anything.
I keep the empty sprue parts (cut them to size; about 2-3 inches) and use for stirring the paint in the screw on type bottles. Works great. Keep them in a small plactic cup and reuse them time and time again.
Oh God, I feel old. I remember a time before blu-tack was invented! We used to put up our pop star and sci-fi posters with good old drawing pins.
The netting oranges come in can make painting diamonds a lot easier. Just take it to an undercoated tank surface then overspay white. When you take it off it should leave the diamond shapes ready to be coloured in.
If using acrylic paint, add fabric softener to your water (50/50) when washing out your brushes. The surfactants in the solution will help clean out the paint from the bristles as well as leave the bristles softer when dried.
When putting hair brushes away after a painting session, lightly coat the bristles with sunflower or canola oil (ordinary kitchen variety). The oils are known to have vitamin E and other chemicals that are good for hair and will ensure longer lifespan of your brushes. Wash the brushes with soapy water before use to make the brush compatible with the water-based paint.
Quality! 👍👍
The green side from washing sponges are great for making spraying filters for marbled surfaces. Just pluck it out and strip it as think or thin as needed
Good tip!
What do you mean by "...spraying filters for marbled surfaces..."? Are you saying you spray THROUGH the sponge?
@@JeffJefferyUK Exaclty.
I save everything. Even the used cotton buds (Q-tips here in the US) and cut off the buds as they make great pipes or downspouts in HO scale. I also got a bundle of little black hollow coffee stirring sticks use for pipe loads. I save all used toothpicks and cut off the ends to make HO scale round poles or logs. Yep, I use nail files for sanding sticks. I also use women's eye makeup as weathering powder as it sticks so much better and only cost $1.00 at the dollar store. You can get just about any color you want and the orange makes good rust. I also make my own rust powder by putting 0000 steel wool in a quart jar, putting it in the kitchen window and wait for it to mostly dissolve. I then pour the mixture into a stainless steel 11X14 photo processing tray (a glass baking dish will work) and wait a couple of weeks for it to completely dry. I then use a single edge razor blade to pulverize it into a powder and store it in little snuff tins. Each batch comes out a different color. Use it as a wash or mix a little PVA with it to make it stick. I even gouge out pieces of plastic on the models & fill it with my rust. Works great! I acquired a whole box of communion plastic cups which work great for mixing paint & other "stuff". Of course I have my package of "Blue Tack". I also use Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss for an acrylic top coat especially when adding decals before the Dull Coat top coat. Back when I had Hep C I had to drink distilled water so we got our own water distiller and I always use distilled water for modeling. (No longer have Hep C - got cured through the VA). I also make all my own ground scatter from foam, acrylic paint and an electric coffee grinder. I also have a Nandena bush which I use for tree armatures after the little red berries fall off. Just paint them brown for reg. trees or grey for ash trees. I also have a literal ton of lichen growing on the hill back of my house. I gather it up, clean it off and spray it down with water soluble glycerin and paint it whatever color I want. I also use worn out Scotch Bright pads for hedges and bushes. I also use super glue and baking soda for filling gaps. I also have 2 airbrushes, one for acrylic paints (Badger Anthem 155) and my Harbor Freight Chinese airbrush for petroleum based paints. I make all my own ground scatter and grass from hair from wigs or worn out brushes. Floral wire comes in handy as well as twine for making trees. All the weights for my model train rolling I get from Harbor Freight - both the 1/4 & 1/2 oz. car tire weights. I also save the little moisture absorbing packs as the small balls make good oranges in HO scale and the larger ones you can paint another color to make larger fruit. If anyone has open frame (Pittman) motors in their locomotives I would suggest to change out the magnet and use neodymium (rare earth) magnets as it makes a HUGE difference in current draw and performance. I did this to all my open frame motors and now they will "creep" around the track. I think I had to use 4 or 5 of the 1/8 inch X 1/4 wide X 1/2 inch long. I could go on but I gotta get to bed as it's getting late. Hope some of these tips will help. Cheers from an old modeler in eastern TN
Dude. Used q-tips and used tooth picks? OR...buy a package of each at the Dollar tree and set aside for modeling purposes.
This guy knows he's stuff, some great tips & tricks here! 👌
Not available at all supermarkets, but I find pipe cleaners useful for cleaning in awkward spots. You can also get them as craft items. If you are in the U.K.and have a branch of The Works near you it is an excellent source if budget art and craft items: for example, the pastels in their cheap sets can be ground down or rubbed on a sanding stick to produce good weathering powders. They also have selections of cheap brushes.
Also great for modelling rockets/missiles in flight.
I have employed household items in crafting since I was a kid. Toothpicks, paper clips, safety pins and popsicle sticks are great for working with clay. Salt, sugar, and baking soda are great for adding textures when mixed with glue or paint. Aluminum foil is another great item to keep on hand.
100% !
Something I have found really useful making card or plastic model where I'm having trouble keeping things square is Lego. It's dead easy to knock up a jig to brace the corners, hold it together with a peg or a rubber band.
That's actually a very good tip haha, cheers for sharing
As a tip, the water from the condensers of tumble driers and air conditioners are also de-ionised. I found that out when I needed it for watering very fussy houseplants.
With the blu tack, 2 things to consider.
1, white tack exists and is less greasy and sticky than the blu tack which can sometimes leave some greasy deposits behind and I've found white tack is easier on paint.
2, black tack also exists. It is much stickier than blu or white tacks, in the model railway world it is sometimes used to hold wires or decoders in place as whilst it is very sticky it can still be removed if required and will stay in place until you need to remove it, which blu tack doesn't always do.
Additionally, elbow grease is pretty good for paint stripping and it has a much nicer smell and it's cheaper than dettol. Other alternatives are isopropyl alcohol and methylated spirits, iso being very good with an air brush instead of dedicated airbrush cleaner.
ere is another tip. Use clear nailpolish to replicate glass on the instrumentpanel in planes and cars.Apply it with a drop on a toothpick. Works better than Clear from tamiya or other brands. Dry,s very fast and is awefull cheap at the budget stores. i buy them in spain at the chinese bazar for €1.30. And i have painted a few cars and motorbikes with nailpolish, because they got realy funky and nice colors,and you can use cheap thinner or disolvent to thin it down for the airbrush. Dry,s up very fast and give a nice shine for those who don,t like to spend a lot on clearcoat on it. And when the bottle is empty and clean, you can use it to fill it with sprue goo or tamiya extra thin, the aplicator brush is already in it.
very good stuff!
Sponges can be cut for use as internal supports for models that have thin walled components that need to be clamped while glue dries. Lightweight and helps keep the shape of the part while reducing the risk of pressure splits from the clamps if there are minor deformities in mouldings.
The wife's nailboards come in handy for detail work, just dont let her catch you "acquiring" them as that can turn nasty, especially if you cut them to shape for fine working.
Brushes can last longer if you clean them, then dip them in diluted hair conditioner for twenty minutes before rinsing and drying. Improves the hairs and doesn't increase your hygiene budget unless you're seriously into painting on a regular basis.
Budget house repair filler and PVA glue make a decent filler thats easy to sand, shape and paint. Also useful for dioramas.
Another use for sponges is to create a base for well kept hedges. In architecture modeling we use often the Scotch brite but cheaper alternatives for the kitchen (green scraping sponges) are a godsend not only for hedges but also to buff plastic or metal parts to aid paint adherence. And about the CA filler, you can also use sodium bicarbonate which sprinkled on CA will make it dry rock solid in seconds, and easy to sand. Finally thanks for the dettol trick. I will be sure to try it as soon as I need to strip paint from any train body shell. Cheers from Belgium 🇧🇪
One of my favourites has identical product sheets to Tamiys Extra thin quick set. It is available from Pharmaceutical and is call Mek
Lab suppliers can be a source of useful (and sometimes inexpensive) supplies, such as small beakers with spouts for paint mixing, from 25ml (0.85 oz) and up, either in plastic or borosilicate glass. Other useful things: wash bottles with curved spouts, flip top bottles, funnels, pipettes, filters...
Fine sodium bicarb is also a good packer when using superglue as a filler. :)
I use small and medium wooden clothes pins as clamps. I modify them by cutting the tips to be a sharp vee, rather than the indented vee. This lets them be used closer in.
I also make bespoke ends to suit a particular clamp need.
They are cheap, so experiment.
Learned this tip from a Car Modeling magazine circa 70’s.
Where I also learned about SuperGlue and baking powder.
Hadn't thought about modifying clothes pegs! That's a great tip
Suggest care is taken with amount of pressure applied.
Different types of pegs have a variety of spring, so only use carefully with smaller, thin parts.
@@4Vlad 👍
free paint pots can be obtained from McDonalds, you can use those little paper pots that you put ketchup in to mix paint. also you don't need vinegar, micro sol or set to secure decals if you use tamiya acrylics. simply place the decal where you want it, remove excess water by tapping it with a tissue them brush over Tamiya X-20 thinner over the decal, it softens it and sets it once it is dry.
I need to get a big bottle of deionised water and white vinegar too. Clothes pegs are a nobrainer that I never thought of too; So much cheaper and more easily available than fancy model clamps.
I'd suggest changing blintac for white tac, it's got less oils in it 🙂
Very true!
My compliments on your clean hands and well trimmed nails. They have made your video so much nicer to watch than some others I have seen. Nice tips also.
I made my living being a barber and when I quit I had several small thick towels called "steamers", use in shaving. They're nice for wiping up messes and cleaning brushes, etc.
Sounds good!
Talcum powder can also be used to turn gloss enamel paint into matt enamel paint
Good tip!
Careful mixing can produce a satin finish ideal for reproducing leather. An Airfx magazine recommendation from the 60s!
@@iantobanter9546 sometimes the old tips are the best!
And when you mix it in your thinned paint, you can shoot it throught the airbrush to get a texture in your paint. I do that as the seats of the car models i build. Afterall,not every car has leather seats or doorpanels.
kabab skewers and bamboo chopsticks are helpful too
IKEA Tillgang grey plastic serving trays (like the ones used in supermarket cafes) make a cheap portable workstation for work in progress, painting and cutting if you add a mat; cost £1.50 each.
Very nice tip!
I've always used this malt vinegar not only for decals but for my fish and chips.
That's great
Great idea for a video, I use toothpicks to scrape away paint from clear parts if I get it in the wrong place, I can't paint canopies without them
Cheers, and good point!
Used this method a few weeks ago when painting a spitfire canopy. It was the first time I'd taped and painted a canopy so the toothpicks got some usage. 👍
Liquid masking film can be made by mixing Elmers clear glue 50% with liquid dish soap% .Spray oven cleaner can also be used to strip models , use caution and wear protective (rubber or vinyl gloves) and eye protection.
For containers that will be in contact with solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinners, high density polyethylene, polypropylene plastic containers and cups resists solvents at room temperature. PET to some extent but it will swell and turn white over time ( weeks). Low density polyethylene eg. Zip lock bags and other plastic sheets are ok but not for extended contact use. Just have a look at the plastic classification at the bottom of most plastic containers for details. I use all paints on HDPE containers and wipe it clean with 100% acetone.
👍👍
The only one I'd disagree with is Dettol - I found it absolutely stinks, so I would instead recommend methylated spirits, which while a bit smelly at first will completely evaporate. Also you can reuse it.
Another one I got recently is some containers with locking tops. There's many uses for these but the ones I got were quite flat and wide, and I filled these with basing materials so if I want a quick and easy base I can just cover any base up to about 150mm in PVA and simply dip it in the tray to get started.
Aldi here in Australia occasionally does Revell truck/car kits. Not my thing but good for others. Probably what they can get cheapest re shipping, production etc....depending where in the world you live.
There is an amusing stock photo from their catalogue showing dad and son assembling a truck model with dad wielding a hot glue gun to do so!
Good tips. Cheers. 🦘🦘🦘
That's a very interesting oddity! The promo sounds great haha. Cheers!
Very useful information indeed. I had not thought of using disposable shot glasses for paint mixing- they certainly are a better option than the old "Aunties" microwave pudding pots that I have been using.
Although I note that you are modelling aircraft, whereas I am into model railways (although previously into radio controlled aircraft), so I will suggest another item that can be obtained cheaply from supermarkets etc:- Artists acrylic paints. Very useful for scenic and building modelling. I have bought mine from "Home Bargains" and "The Range". Much cheaper than the little modellers paint pots.
Decal softener...
Here’s what you’ll need:
A container to hold your Decal Softener in glass pref
8ml of Isopropanol Alcohol (IPA) 70% to 99% [the 99% mix is very aggressive] i use both mix
2ml of Enamel Thinners.
1/8 oz
top off to 1/2 oz 70% ipa
For your setting solution
70% vinegar
30% water
Fantastic recipe! Cheers man!
I could not imagine what a kitchen roll was until i saw it was paper towels😄
Pasted your video to my FB model train group, great hits, thanks.
Glad you found the vid helpful! I hope the group likes it :)
Love cotton buds for chalk weathering!
100%!
Just caught up with this video. Thanks for the shout out matey..Dettol is my friend lol
No problem mate!
MR.MUSCLE oven cleaner is a really useful paint stripper for models.
Super informative video.. many thanks for doing it..
No problem :)
those plastic shot glasses also make a good painting handle, particular for scale humans 👍👍
Good point!
I haven't advanced to the level of using Detol to strip models yet. So far if there was a model I wanted to strip, I picked the paint off in chunks with a toothpick steel paperclip or fingernail ; even a wire toothbrush for getting the awkward bits . Nitromors type paint stripper was used once maybe for a mini that was caked in enamel paint by its previous owner too.
One has to be careful when using DI water. Because it has lost its natural charge it is very aggressive against metals (except high grade stainless steel. That means the ferrules of your paint brushes, some components of an airbrush or the miniture's own parts can become oxidized. Distilled water is a useful substitute.
Good point 👍
A wet palette is very useful when working with acrylic paints. You can also use baking paper in place of grease proof paper. If your container has an air-tight lid, the paints can be left for several days and they will not dry out.
👍
Also known as Wax-paper in a lot of places. ^_^
@@dust_bin_gaming7319 indeed!
No, wax paper is not the same as baking paper. Baking paper, or baking parchment, is not waxed and is very like normal grease proof paper. It will allow water to soak through, which waxed paper would not. Very useful in cooking and in modelling.
@@pauladams286 Weird. It's what I've seen other YT's, and some of the more talented locals, always use for their DIY pallets.
Cracking video - I knew a fair few of those, but every day is also a school day, so I learned some new hacks too 👍✌️💜😊
There's the old trick of adding sprue to solvent to make a slow setting filler, almost for free - I'm old school ✌️😀😀
Thanks! And old school is sometimes best - love a bit of sprue goo! 😉
@@ModellingWeekly ✌️💜👍😊😀😀
Very handy, thank you!
No problem!
Makeup "blush brushes" make excellent model dusters
I'm new to the channel. I like the vinegar trick and will give it a go.
Welcome! Hope it all goes well for you :)
Thanks so much, cheers from Uruguay.
No problem, glad you found it helpful!
@@ModellingWeekly absolute yes , thanks.
Poundland do a big bag of make up blending sponges . Brilliant for weathering
Totally!
shot glasses get from poundland i use the plastic lids off coffee creamers also as paint dishes and the plastic tops of gravy granuals as paint dishes
yoghurt pots, tops from roll on deodorant - the list is endless
Net curtains dyed green make excellent camo nets.
Saw a Vid of someone using weave bandages, probably a cheaper option
Cheap odorless paint thinner, it works way better than humbrol enamel thinner on enamels, 100% pure acetone for cleaning the brushes, thick nail cutter works fine when it comes to cut off parts from their sprue, sandpaper bought from painting stores, masking tapes from paint stores work also fine
Good stuff!
Glad you found it handy!
pipettes from The Works in the uk, about a quid for a bag IIRC
Thanks for sharing
Primark has a foundation brush for £2, massive drybrush for tanks.
Hair wash conditioner makes a really good flow improver.
same great tips
cheers pal
No problem mate :)
Toothpicks are also good for applying CA and PVA glue
Indeed!
Instead of shot glasses I use clean used cream and yoghurt pots.
Well known but polyfilla fine surface been using it for fifty years as good as any branded filler far cheaper.
👍👍
Dettol only works because it ALSO contains alcohol - plain alcohol is cheaper and stinks less, its also great for cleaning airbrushes and as a decal softener
Greaseproof paper is also waterproof, you need un-waxed parchment paper for wet palette
I agree! Acohol is brilliant, every modeller should have some and I mention it's uses and excellence in a lot of my videos - I mentioned Dettol for this top, however, as it is sold in most supermarkets whereas 1L bottles of alcohol arent really sold in supermarkets and instead will require you to go online (e.g amazon, etc.)
Yep,, and on the darkest hour, when all starts to go haywire on your build, one can take a swig or ten against worst depression on those gaping seamlines or details melting away. 😅
@@anonplayer8529 😂😂
Good to know thanks
No problem :)
I hear from some old heads in the community that the old Testors Decal Set solution was just straight up white vinegar at a markup.😅
I think some good cheap stuff from super markets are isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration and above) is great for cleaning airbrushes if you want to save your MLT for more important tasks (It can also clean regular brushes but uhh...it's not kind to natural hair bristles). Baking Soda plus Super glue also works as a great filler as well: drop the powder into a gap and get it wet with CA glue and it hardens right up.
Fantastic stuff!
Just don't use IPA with AK acrylics. The chemistry is different from other acrylics like Tamiya. If you try to dilute AK or clean an air brush after using AK acrylic with IPA, you will end up with a gloppy mess that is anything but thinned or cleaned. Use regular water or dedicated AK airbrush cleaner with their paints.
@@Chilly_Billy Yes, Acrylics have different solvents so IPA will strip out Tamiya, Mr.Hobby and AK Real Color but Vallejo, AK 3rd Gen and MiG will goop. I believe it is vice versa so putting water to clean Tamiya will goop it up.
Obviously dedicated airbrush cleaners and MLT make all this headache go away but we're trying to save money here.😁
@@burningphoneix I use watered down IPA at 30:1 with my Vallejo paints without problem. Also I buy my IPA 100% pure in 5 litre jugs from a local industrial solvent supplier. Much cheaper than the supermarket brands. Check if you have a supplier nearby.
other supermarket sell vinegar ! though I do mainly shop at Tesco
Indeed!
A great paintbrush cleaner, especially when the paint is dried on, is DETTOL. Please note: There are other brands of disinfectants available!
I certainly wouldn't use Thinners or even acrylic paints in plastic pots, you will fine that the plastic melts or goes very soft
Depends what type of plastic the pots are made of
😉👍Very cool and very nicely well done and very well executed and informatively explained in every detail way shape and form on all of the subject matter and format on various products to help in building your models at very nice and reasonable price indeed!...
Apart from Dettol which I use for anything covered in enamel, Methalated Spirit is the buiseness for anything with acrylic paint on it. As I go, Meth's first then Dettol and back to Meth's for the last clean. Plus meth's doe's not damage plastic. After which pour the Dettol through a paper coffee filter back into the bottle. And, even sometimes you find paint still on the model as I have with thirty year old white metal figures, painted with acrylic. This is a complete and utter B'stard to remove, as shown by other TH-camr's. So industrial paint stripper and even somtimes that doesn't do the job as some 6mm WWII and 28mm, stuff I have proves the point. Wet pallets I always use De-ionised water from my local car factors. Which is also a great place to buy aerosol primers dirt cheap.
Diecast model restorers often use caustic soda and boiling water to strip paint from castings. It has to be used with great care and it would destroy plastic parts, but I wonder if it might help remove acrylic paint from white metal.
Very interesting stuff!
A word of warning. When shopping for make-up brushes, nail files, clear nail varnish, or acetone free nail varnish remover? Be sure to adopt the deepest, most manly voice you can muster, or you might get some funny looks. Also be aware of friends / neighbours when shopping. Can you imagine trying to explain to a friend, when they encounter you purchasing beauty accessories,, that you are using them for modelling? "Oh yes", they may ask, "And what kind of 'modelling' do you do?" 😁
I once had a bad experience when I was asked to be Santa for a childrens party. My attempts to look the best Santa got me some funny looks in Boots.
Johnsons klear floor wax is great for a satin varnish.
I have heard good things about it!
Johnson's KLEAR is super but not manufactured anymore. Does anyone out there in model land know of similar product that has the same properties.
De-Ionized (DI) water - if you have a heat pump tumble dryer, or know someone with one, you can get it for free!
Very good point!
Any good sorted bike shop should sell talcum powder, as it is still used for tubed tires.
Elbow grease, never need another airbrush cleaner for tamiya
Anybody who thinks greaseproof paper is the same as in a wet pallette has probably never used a wet pallette. Look at it and you'll probably figure out why it doesn't work properly
Its porous but not very porous and lets water through but not paint and it’s not sticky so the paint can slide around well
In other words it’s very similar to
It's a pity that we don't get those Airfix (cheap) kits that you guys have, guess it's the price we pay, being at the arse end of the world.
It is a real shame :/
. . . but balanced against your beautiful country and your wonderful climate I think it is a small price to pay.
I've always said that MicroSol and MicroSet smelt of vinegar.
Your hunch was correct! (For micro set)
Solvaset used to smell like vinegar, so this isn't really a surprise to me.
Indeed!
👍👍👍👍
:)
I hate smell of vinegar and decal solution based on it😖😖😖
It's nasty! But at least you can save some cash by using some homemade stuff ;)
I wish they had Aldi kits in the US lol.
Would definitely be nice!
Microsol is replaceable by 2-butoxyethanol.
lol, and which Supermarket product contains 2-butoxyethanol?
If your supermarket stocks isopropyl alcohol then that works too, but I doubt it stocks the pure stuff so I didn't mention it
I never buy store brand items. they are usually junk and a little higher priced product can save waste in the long run
I don't find this to be the case for everything :)
HOW MUCH WATER TO VINIGAR, APPROXIMATLY??
Depends on the decal manufacturer, start from a 50/50 mix and work up to more Vinegar until the desired effect is reached :)
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks!
That a Boy ❤
Anyone have knowledge or at least a guesstimate of vinegar and water?
Looking at discussions online, it's around a 50% ratio
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks a lot.
@@BarbosaUral no problem :)
No problems using it straight.
@@markrichardson4754 might depend on the brand. Different countries may produce stronger or weaker solutions so the advice in the video about finding the best solution to make yourself still stands.
Cocktail sticks are really cheap.
I know
Instead of buying the expensive Dettol, you can buy just the cheap home brand disinfectant in the laundry aisle. I don't think you can get talcum powder anymore as it causes cancer. It's all just cornstarch if you read the label which is cheaper just to buy it as corn starch. I wish you gave us the dilution rate of the white vinegar as they're all 7%. Cheers Graham
Heya, the dettol replacement tip is a great shout! As far as I know. you can still buy talc in most places as there's no evidence that it causes cancer www.cancerresearchuk.org/about-cancer/causes-of-cancer/cancer-myths/cosmetics#:~:text=Can%20talcum%20powder%20cause%20cancer,talcum%20powder%20causes%20ovarian%20cancer.
In terms of the vinegar, it tends to depend on the decal and also how much/and for how long you leave it :) as a result, I recommend experimenting with different quantities as there's no definitive answer. Hope this helps!
Noice
I AM BACK PEEPS
Hell yeah!
@@ModellingWeekly looking forward to your next build video
@@diggilad781 got some exciting stuff coming up!
You can’t be a modeler! Your hands are clean and your nails are well manicured. 😂
The mind boggles! 😂😂
I only use products specifically for plastic models. Those arent expensive at all so why go all the way out to skimp that few dollar? Support the hobby brand manufacturer so that they wont go out of biz please!
Not everyone is privileged enough to be able to spend that extra dollar. If you want to, and are able to, then you can and noone is judging you or asking you to do anything differently. Neither am I. This video is literally just to show people what they can do with things from the supermarket - that's all. The majority of things on this list aren't even replacing actual products designed for Modellers. What is a cotton bud replacing? Do you refuse to use cotton buds because they're not made for Modellers? What about a sponge?
Sometimes, people like to see what they can do to make their models a different way. Experimenting with techniques and materials is part of that. I prefer to make models from scratch using plasticard and i will go for scales that aren't used by the manufacturers or want a model there isn't a kit for. Artists call it mixed media. Model makers call it kit-bashing, if there are kits you can use, but the challenge is finding new ways to do things and improve your skills. The other side of the coin is that industrially produced solutions are becoming more expensive in order to accommodate bigger profits, and for many people, spending excessive amounts on hobby is either not a viable option due to income or can even cause friction in a relationship so cheaper methods are sometimes more desirable.
If you do your research you will find there are so many products that the big model suppliers source and rebrand it as the best thing since sliced bread. Take Tamiys Extra Thin quick setting. There is an identical product available where you can purchase that at 1l at the same price as 2 Tamiya bottles.
A little tip - try addressing the audience as if it's one person. Most people watch these things alone, and it's more effective to sound like you're speaking them directly than doing all this "you guys" stuff. Just a little way you can improve
I use a mixture of the two ways of addressing my viewers, depending on the situation. For example, in the intro I said "you guys loved it last time", as if I aimed that statement at the viewer as an individual then it wouldn't really make sense, as I have no way of knowing if that person even watched my previous video. However, I followed it up by saying I hope "you" find it useful, addressing the viewer as an individual. I don't want to sound arrogant, but I have been doing this for 7 years and I've created a style for myself that I intend to stick to, though I appreciate your comment and your good intentions :)
@@ModellingWeekly..yes, please don’t change your style. I like it.
Absolutely no need to pretend as if you were doing this STRICTLY & SOLELY for ME.
Modeling is a community.
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Be a little cautious when using Dettol for stripping paint from resin though. Although it’s largely safe, it can soften the finer detail on some resin parts.
Didn't know about the resin aspect! Cheers for this!
@@ModellingWeeklyyeah, I stripped the paint off a resin cavalry bust that wasn’t going to plan a while ago. I lost the pickers and chains, when rinsing, due to them becoming soft in the Dettol.
@@Pte1643 sounds rough! Noted, Dettol does not like resin lol
Hadn’t tried it on resin. Thanks for the tip.