Important note: There are some models (newer models?) that require TWO holes to be drilled to access the hidden Phillips head screw(s). This video only shows a model with just one screw (one hole to drill per spider arm with a spinning bolt). My model (a 2008 LG) had two per spider (fortunately, the two bolts for one of my spider arms released and upon removal of my agitator I discovered this - and I have seen two Phillips screws per agitator blade in other videos as well). The one screw location depicted in this video is still correct, dead-center between the two bolt/bolt holes on the spider. The SECOND screw location is 9/16-inch further out from the center of the drum/spider axle. Yes, further away from the center. It does not line up with the other small hole in the stainless drum as depicted in the video. When I was done, my drum had three holes: the one I drilled through directly between the bolt holes, the one I drilled 9/16-inch further away from the center of the drum, and the smaller hole that already in my drum (depicted in the video). I drilled my holes out to 5/16-inch diameter (stepped up in sizes until I got to 5/16) which allowed me to use a #2 Phillips screwdriver on the two screws in my agitator. Be careful to not let the drill bit travel too deep and mar up the head of the Phillips screw below. Even being careful, I did mar one up which made it more difficult to remove. I replaced the damaged screw with a new one (it is a stainless steel screw). The reason I wanted to note this is because if someone just drilled for access to one screw (per this video) and there was actually two, then they would not be able tor remove the agitator (at least without breaking it).
Mine was like this. Complete nightmare. I have three bolts to go but they won’t come out even with vice grips on the end of the lock nut. My question is how do I secure new lock nuts into the plastic underside of the drum baffles? The nuts came out and damaged the plastic somewhat from turning with the spider arm bolt. The spider arm bolts have to be secured to these lock nuts and I’m worried now they won’t be tight enough unless the lock nuts are secured in the plastic snug.
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful in resolving this issue. Even with careful and slow removal technique used, I still could only removed three of the six bolts, and had to resort to this backup method to finish the job. One thing that may help others I found in another video: they suggested slightly tightening the bolts first, and then repeatedly and slowly loosening and tightening a 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn to try to break up the grip of the thread locker before fully removing the bolts. I did not come across this knowledge before I tried to remove my bolts (50% success by just slowly unscrewing them), but it seems like it would merit consideration. If the grip of the thread locker can be reduced before the plastic is displaced much, it could help with success in bolt removal without having to resort to drilling things out.
Just finished mine, removed the screw, could only get out 2 bolts, BUT I used 2 thin ply bars and forced the plastic up and off of the bolts. All came out with some slow steady rocking. What a pain in the ass!!
@@TexasHartweck My washer/dryer combo actually has 2 hidden screws holding the agitators to the drum. I drilled thru the spider and drum to see the philips heads and drop the agitators off the bolt nuts, and my gf and i got them out. Bolts are expensive so i wire brushed them clean. Used some HD jbweld epoxy to cement the nuts back into the plastic plate where they spun. After cure, used loctite on the spider bolts and hand tighten. If u then change the bearings as i did, patience, working the edges so they come out straight. Putting the new ones in the freezer helped, and save the old ones to hammer the new. I lubed them and gaskets up with silicone paste (not just for brake caliper pins). So comrade, its a rocking Friday night. Just added a short overpriced pedestal, and now swapping shocks and doing the reassembly. Hope to be washing tomorrow.
Another trick that helped cleanly extract the spider bolts was using a breaker bar to tighten them just a tad. Then loosen and tighten repeatedly just a little to break down the loctite. Pain, but much less money than replacing an $1800 combo unit.
SO HELPFUL to see the inside of that beast. I elected to pry the arms up after I removed the screw. I used 2 thin ply bars and forced the plastic up and off of the bolts. All came out with some slow steady rocking. What a pain in the ass but finally done.
I had to buy 3 lifters and 6 bolts with the red Loctite new spider and bearing seal kit. I did paint the spider both sides with epoxy paint. LG no longer makes the drum spider complete you can only get individual parts and assemble your self. I used propane torches to heat up bolts to 300 plus to release red Loctite. There is a very large range on part prices.
I may have to do the same thing with those torches because I was only able to remove one of six bolts. Btw, where did you purchase the lifters and part numbers? I bought the bolts
If it spins trying to take it off isn't it because the plastic housing stripped that holds the nut in place? If so how can you tighten it back up if the bolt spins.
It's a brain teaser, isn't it? I think you just reverse the disassembly procedure. The nuts are tightened before the agitator is installed. You'll need to drill holes in the new spider to tighten the hidden screw.
Tremendous! I'm at a standstill five of the six bolts I was able to remove. Now I know how to get the sixth one out. Thank you. However, when you put the new bolts back in, is the plastic a problem for the bolt's to tightened down? Concerned if they just spin as you're tightening the new spider on?
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Important note: There are some models (newer models?) that require TWO holes to be drilled to access the hidden Phillips head screw(s). This video only shows a model with just one screw (one hole to drill per spider arm with a spinning bolt). My model (a 2008 LG) had two per spider (fortunately, the two bolts for one of my spider arms released and upon removal of my agitator I discovered this - and I have seen two Phillips screws per agitator blade in other videos as well). The one screw location depicted in this video is still correct, dead-center between the two bolt/bolt holes on the spider. The SECOND screw location is 9/16-inch further out from the center of the drum/spider axle. Yes, further away from the center. It does not line up with the other small hole in the stainless drum as depicted in the video. When I was done, my drum had three holes: the one I drilled through directly between the bolt holes, the one I drilled 9/16-inch further away from the center of the drum, and the smaller hole that already in my drum (depicted in the video). I drilled my holes out to 5/16-inch diameter (stepped up in sizes until I got to 5/16) which allowed me to use a #2 Phillips screwdriver on the two screws in my agitator. Be careful to not let the drill bit travel too deep and mar up the head of the Phillips screw below. Even being careful, I did mar one up which made it more difficult to remove. I replaced the damaged screw with a new one (it is a stainless steel screw). The reason I wanted to note this is because if someone just drilled for access to one screw (per this video) and there was actually two, then they would not be able tor remove the agitator (at least without breaking it).
Yup I had the mystery 2nd screw to drill for… old spider finally off! Now for bearing fun!
Thanks for the location on the second hole!
Mine was like this. Complete nightmare. I have three bolts to go but they won’t come out even with vice grips on the end of the lock nut. My question is how do I secure new lock nuts into the plastic underside of the drum baffles? The nuts came out and damaged the plastic somewhat from turning with the spider arm bolt. The spider arm bolts have to be secured to these lock nuts and I’m worried now they won’t be tight enough unless the lock nuts are secured in the plastic snug.
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful in resolving this issue. Even with careful and slow removal technique used, I still could only removed three of the six bolts, and had to resort to this backup method to finish the job. One thing that may help others I found in another video: they suggested slightly tightening the bolts first, and then repeatedly and slowly loosening and tightening a 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn to try to break up the grip of the thread locker before fully removing the bolts. I did not come across this knowledge before I tried to remove my bolts (50% success by just slowly unscrewing them), but it seems like it would merit consideration. If the grip of the thread locker can be reduced before the plastic is displaced much, it could help with success in bolt removal without having to resort to drilling things out.
You be Da Man ! I searched high and low at the University of TH-cam to find this information,
Thanks for the details… 1 bolt out, 1 bolt spinning, 4 to go. Fun!
Just finished mine, removed the screw, could only get out 2 bolts, BUT I used 2 thin ply bars and forced the plastic up and off of the bolts. All came out with some slow steady rocking. What a pain in the ass!!
@@TexasHartweck My washer/dryer combo actually has 2 hidden screws holding the agitators to the drum. I drilled thru the spider and drum to see the philips heads and drop the agitators off the bolt nuts, and my gf and i got them out. Bolts are expensive so i wire brushed them clean. Used some HD jbweld epoxy to cement the nuts back into the plastic plate where they spun. After cure, used loctite on the spider bolts and hand tighten.
If u then change the bearings as i did, patience, working the edges so they come out straight. Putting the new ones in the freezer helped, and save the old ones to hammer the new. I lubed them and gaskets up with silicone paste (not just for brake caliper pins). So comrade, its a rocking Friday night. Just added a short overpriced pedestal, and now swapping shocks and doing the reassembly. Hope to be washing tomorrow.
Another trick that helped cleanly extract the spider bolts was using a breaker bar to tighten them just a tad. Then loosen and tighten repeatedly just a little to break down the loctite. Pain, but much less money than replacing an $1800 combo unit.
SO HELPFUL to see the inside of that beast. I elected to pry the arms up after I removed the screw.
I used 2 thin ply bars and forced the plastic up and off of the bolts. All came out with some slow steady rocking. What a pain in the ass but finally done.
I had to buy 3 lifters and 6 bolts with the red Loctite new spider and bearing seal kit. I did paint the spider both sides with epoxy paint. LG no longer makes the drum spider complete you can only get individual parts and assemble your self. I used propane torches to heat up bolts to 300 plus to release red Loctite. There is a very large range on part prices.
I may have to do the same thing with those torches because I was only able to remove one of six bolts.
Btw, where did you purchase the lifters and part numbers? I bought the bolts
Super helpful, thanks!
Huge help, thank you
very very good information
If it spins trying to take it off isn't it because the plastic housing stripped that holds the nut in place? If so how can you tighten it back up if the bolt spins.
It's a brain teaser, isn't it? I think you just reverse the disassembly procedure. The nuts are tightened before the agitator is installed. You'll need to drill holes in the new spider to tighten the hidden screw.
Nice
Very good education. Thanks.
Tremendous! I'm at a standstill five of the six bolts I was able to remove. Now I know how to get the sixth one out. Thank you. However, when you put the new bolts back in, is the plastic a problem for the bolt's to tightened down? Concerned if they just spin as you're tightening the new spider on?
Thank you your video was very good.
very clear explanation, thank.
You're good ty