Training For Climbing - Campus Power Training
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
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In part three of EpicTV's new training series, climbing coach and author Eric Horst talks us through the steps needed to become an all round better climber. This time: building your upper body strength and power with these easy to follow campus board routines.
Check out the shop's training aids to get you started: bit.ly/2jIKvvV
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Director: George Bruce Wilson
Producer: Three Peak Films
This is a fantastic video, thank you very much man! Nobody gives as much detail of how to do the proper technique.
I'm a new climber but an old rower and I would love to coach the people on the erg or rowing machine....their technique is driving me nuts and the way they're rowing is a great way to injure your lower back! Be careful!!! Ask someone who rows first♡
I was wondering, is one set considered one rep (with one hand) or does a set include repetitions of both hands? If so, is the rest still three minutes between sets?
were is this gym?
Momentum lehi in utah was the main one but it showed a couole shots at the sandy location too
Hmm he says not to use closed crimp, yet ar 3:42 there s a closed crimp being used...
looks like its Matt fultz who climbs V15 so I think he's fine. For anyone new like the people coming to this video, its good advice.
how is it a-lactic? if that is even a word
nice
Thank you for the video...This is of so much help. Can anyone tell me the song name at 4:48?
Can’t find the song anywhere!!
I want to buy a campus board but I dont have the place to make it overhanging does it need to be overhanging?
Love Climbing yes from experience it it to very easy if not
I've hit a wall and I dont know what i can do to get any better
Chandler Yen you're doing it wrong. Go up it!
So for someone in the V6 range (and about 2 years of climbing hard) would something like this be appropriate to push further, or should I wait longer before attempting this?
Ammoniummetavanadate yes i'd say start with campus board training when you can climb at least v6 or higher
Thanks.
I have hit a pretty long plateau at this level. Leading has really helped with endurance, but my bouldering is getting stagnant.
What if I've hit v6 after 8 months? Can i campus?
Be careful about using a grade or time to assess whether such climbing specific training would be beneficial. Plenty of people mistake having a send of a grade to be the level of climber, others forget how grades vary by crag or gym, and still others ignore how long a project requires. Give yourself another year, probably, but feel free to test a few exercises on the larger rungs to determine if repeated and consisted and complete sessions of campus training will be more worthwhile to progress than climbing.
Okay I'm not doing any more double dynos XD
haha, I've been climbing for nearly a year now, now on the V6 range and I do campusing a lot, never got an injury and I'm just getting stronger.
Immensely unhelpful comment. 'I drive drunk home every night at 100mph on country backroads, and I've never got an injury and am just getting better at it.' So what? Maybe your tolerance for alcohol and your reaction speeds are 100 times better than your average person, or maybe you're just lucky. There's a reason for the '2 year' rule, and that's that large numbers of people are NOT that lucky, and find themselves with injuries that can take years to heal, IF they heal.
yeah of course people get injured, but a lot of the time its because a small pain in the fingers is ignored and they keep campusing and the pain becomes an injury. However, i have 4 other mates that have been climbing as long as me and none of them have got injured. I just think that 2 years is a ridiculously long time. So surely the probability of at least one of us getting injured is high? However none of us thankfully have been
Likelihood is, given that your friends and started climbing at the same time, you're probably close enough that you have similar lifestyles outside of climbing. Again. Put it in the drunk driving thing. All of my friends also drive home drunk each night, and none of us have had accidents. Doesn't mean it's a good idea to question the prevailing wisdom, especially given that you have so little experience in the area and nothing to back up your perspective but the anecdotal evidence of 5 people.
Ninja B Be careful with your training! I also started campusing early. I felt strong because I went 4 to 5 times per week climbing. I got an finger injury after 3,5 years. Your tendons are not strong enough after only one year. Muscles increase fast, but tendons are poor supplied with blood. Consequences of wrong training can hit you, when you don't expect it (for example after years).
you provably also voted for trump, you sound so smart.
"Stop training or Don't train if you have mysterious finger arm or shoulder pain".........as a climber.....................so never train again in my life copy that.
Aehh, wrong.