Extra special shoutout to Dan Beall for lending us some of his limitless training knowledge (find his coaching info in the description!). ALSO if you want that sweet "I Believe I Can Pssaaa" ringtone, check out Dylan Taylor on Instagram (@climberisms). His dubbed climbing videos WILL make you laugh.
Lol, your guys' freaking intros. I hope for Episode 100 you guys do a replay of every single intro skit. Love all the info in the vids. Keep em coming!
Fun fact: Adam Ondra says in a video he was unable to do a 1-4-7 till quite late in his career (when he won botn bouldering and lead chsmpionship in one year he couldnt do it for sure)
The intro is brilliant. I can't even count how many newbie climbers I hear talking about how they want to train their fingers. I've been climbing for years and I still don't train my fingers because there are so many other things to work on. I find that literally just hanging on a pull-up bar and lifting my feet will do wonders and I don't have to worry about finger injuries.
Perfect intro. But seriously? I've been climbing for 3.23 weeks, i've flashed V2 in three goes, and I've done V3 outside with a few dabs. Is contact strength for me? Yes? Right! Great!
It's not really clear to me what the difference is between part A and part B of the campus workout. From the video the exercises seem very similar, with the difference being only the distance between rungs. The names of the exercises seem to imply some larger differences, since one is labeled symmetric and the other is labeled offset. But if both (1-3)-6 and (1-4)-6 are offset pulls, what differentiates (1-4-)-7 from being just a harder offset pull? Am I missing something obvious?
Hey! Sorry for the confusion. Part A is called Max Symmetrical Pulls because the distance between all the rungs you're using is symmetrical (1-4-7 is evenly spaced). Part B is called Offset Pulls because they're not evenly spaced. For 1-3-6, your hands start closer together on 1-3 and then pull all the way up to 6. For 1-4-6, your hands start further apart on 1-4 and then pull to 6. The different spacing and offsets change the way you generate force. (For example, starting with your hands further apart at 1-4 is more one-arm biased than starting closer together on 1-3.)
I think the campus routine as shown by Dan is more suitable for expert climbers that are probably already training on the campusboard. 1-4-7 is not where you want to start. If the campusboard is new for you, the chance of injury is something to be fully aware of.
The risk of injury on a campus board at all, and trying 1-4-7 in particular is certainly not greater than that of simply bouldering. It involves much more consistent movement on much more ergonomic holds. It is possible to hurt yourself doing just about anything, but this is not high risk.
With a shorter set up, you may find a combination of snatches (jumping off the ground to a rung or rungs) and offset pull ups to be your best bet. Could of course do double dynos to your hearts content as well
I feel like it's worth noting that, as described in video 1, contact strength is limited by... strength. If you aren't doing max hangs or repeaters to train strength, you probably should train that first. :)
@@HoopersBeta Ah yeah, first is vague in that context. What I meant is, if you're going to train only one, training only strength probably makes more sense then training only contact strength.
every sesion that i climb i warm up and after warm up i do 3 attempts at 1-4-8 on each hand 5 minits rest if im tired ill just get less far so be it also last month i was at 1-3-7 and before that i was at 1-5-8
Maybe too late to get a reply But you said that RFD training on the fingerboard is trackable. How does one track rate of progression in this? I cant think of a way beyond having some sort of clever gizmo that tests RFD indwpendently.
Unfortunately, as with so many things, the answer is “it depends”. Using larger rungs will make the pulling portion more difficult and likely bias results more towards your larger pulling muscles (more like doing a powerful pull up than fingerboarding). Meanwhile smaller rungs more emphasize finger strengths and as a result tend to necessitate smaller moves. Broadly speaking, it’s probably best to start out on larger rungs (around 1.25” or 30mm) to learn the movements. Then once you start plateauing, begin to move down rung size. If you’re including both fingerboard and campus board in your training (not generally advisable for newer climbers) it makes sense to use larger rungs and bigger pulls to compliment the heavy finger work with the fingerboard. If you’re only campusing, and you’re familiar with the movements, it is probably better to err on the side of smaller rungs.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.4 (4/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d3l5rxl5CVo/mqdefault.jpg)
Extra special shoutout to Dan Beall for lending us some of his limitless training knowledge (find his coaching info in the description!). ALSO if you want that sweet "I Believe I Can Pssaaa" ringtone, check out Dylan Taylor on Instagram (@climberisms). His dubbed climbing videos WILL make you laugh.
Great to see all three of you again! Have a great 2022 Dan, Emile, and Jason!
is the first method dangerous for underaged people who havent fully developed?
Lol, your guys' freaking intros. I hope for Episode 100 you guys do a replay of every single intro skit. Love all the info in the vids. Keep em coming!
I laughed so hard at the intro xD And thanks for all the superb information you give!
Fun fact: Adam Ondra says in a video he was unable to do a 1-4-7 till quite late in his career (when he won botn bouldering and lead chsmpionship in one year he couldnt do it for sure)
Can we get a montage video of all your opening skits? Love this one.
Haha I like that idea!
Such a well made video. Intro got me laughing so hard :D. Keep up the good work
Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks Dan, let's never be a dead fish anyone near a climb :). Great video -- especially the slap!
The intro is brilliant. I can't even count how many newbie climbers I hear talking about how they want to train their fingers. I've been climbing for years and I still don't train my fingers because there are so many other things to work on. I find that literally just hanging on a pull-up bar and lifting my feet will do wonders and I don't have to worry about finger injuries.
That opening 🙌🏻😂
Perfect intro. But seriously? I've been climbing for 3.23 weeks, i've flashed V2 in three goes, and I've done V3 outside with a few dabs. Is contact strength for me? Yes? Right! Great!
😂😂 just give it another .02 weeks, otherwise contact strength will be KILLING your gainz
@@HoopersBeta NO!! not my GAINZ! And i spent so long doing squats to improve my static lock off strength too!
/uj Good series of videos though my guy.
@@MythAvatar 😅😅
Million thumbs up. Finally a definitive training I can follow
It's not really clear to me what the difference is between part A and part B of the campus workout. From the video the exercises seem very similar, with the difference being only the distance between rungs. The names of the exercises seem to imply some larger differences, since one is labeled symmetric and the other is labeled offset. But if both (1-3)-6 and (1-4)-6 are offset pulls, what differentiates (1-4-)-7 from being just a harder offset pull? Am I missing something obvious?
Hey! Sorry for the confusion. Part A is called Max Symmetrical Pulls because the distance between all the rungs you're using is symmetrical (1-4-7 is evenly spaced). Part B is called Offset Pulls because they're not evenly spaced. For 1-3-6, your hands start closer together on 1-3 and then pull all the way up to 6. For 1-4-6, your hands start further apart on 1-4 and then pull to 6. The different spacing and offsets change the way you generate force. (For example, starting with your hands further apart at 1-4 is more one-arm biased than starting closer together on 1-3.)
@@HoopersBeta That makes sense! Thank you!
And is each rep just that one move?
I think the campus routine as shown by Dan is more suitable for expert climbers that are probably already training on the campusboard. 1-4-7 is not where you want to start. If the campusboard is new for you, the chance of injury is something to be fully aware of.
Thus the multiple notes (verbal and visual) that the routine is for someone who already campuses around 1-4-7 :)
The risk of injury on a campus board at all, and trying 1-4-7 in particular is certainly not greater than that of simply bouldering. It involves much more consistent movement on much more ergonomic holds. It is possible to hurt yourself doing just about anything, but this is not high risk.
XD. The first part of this video is cinematic genious.
Thanks for the ideas. I’ve only got 5 rungs but I think I can still do some solid work.
With a shorter set up, you may find a combination of snatches (jumping off the ground to a rung or rungs) and offset pull ups to be your best bet. Could of course do double dynos to your hearts content as well
What the… I just realized this is my gym!! Haha maybe I’ll see you there sometime!
Had to skip around a little to make sure Dan is in this video before watching 🤣
Dan’s the man, and strong as an ox
Thanks for the kind words! Hope you’re well!
I feel like it's worth noting that, as described in video 1, contact strength is limited by... strength. If you aren't doing max hangs or repeaters to train strength, you probably should train that first. :)
“First” is a vague word ;) but yes, if your strength is extremely low you’d be well advised to work on that
@@HoopersBeta Ah yeah, first is vague in that context. What I meant is, if you're going to train only one, training only strength probably makes more sense then training only contact strength.
every sesion that i climb i warm up and after warm up i do 3 attempts at 1-4-8 on each hand 5 minits rest if im tired ill just get less far so be it also last month i was at 1-3-7 and before that i was at 1-5-8
Hahahahahah oh my gosh.
Best. Intro. Ever!!!!
Yay!!! More :D
This is great!!!!!
Unrated intro with the climberism ringtone 💀
I love the skit, love the information, ready to train send and repeat!
Also how do we get more footage of hooper on the wall?
I keep trying but he always dry-fires off the first move!! 😜
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta he should train contact strength
@@SethPierceClimbing hey that last time I almost didn't dry fire off the first move. Good progress if you ask me.
- Jason
@@HoopersBeta measurable progress is all we're looking for! Keep up the good work!
regarding the "hangboard impact holds" excercise, what would be the next progression to that?
The intro tho 😂
Jason, how to I size your t shirts? Sorry if there’s a better place to contact you
good video
Thanks!
thx
Maybe too late to get a reply
But you said that RFD training on the fingerboard is trackable. How does one track rate of progression in this? I cant think of a way beyond having some sort of clever gizmo that tests RFD indwpendently.
Which size of the campus rung do you recomend using?
Unfortunately, as with so many things, the answer is “it depends”. Using larger rungs will make the pulling portion more difficult and likely bias results more towards your larger pulling muscles (more like doing a powerful pull up than fingerboarding). Meanwhile smaller rungs more emphasize finger strengths and as a result tend to necessitate smaller moves.
Broadly speaking, it’s probably best to start out on larger rungs (around 1.25” or 30mm) to learn the movements. Then once you start plateauing, begin to move down rung size.
If you’re including both fingerboard and campus board in your training (not generally advisable for newer climbers) it makes sense to use larger rungs and bigger pulls to compliment the heavy finger work with the fingerboard.
If you’re only campusing, and you’re familiar with the movements, it is probably better to err on the side of smaller rungs.
Algogogo
hilarious lol
My contact strength is pretty good. I’m just watching for the skits and nerdy mumbles
❤️❤️❤️
Why you have a 😷 on hangboard? 😆 You are practically alone hahaha
The gym had opened to the public and it’s California state mandate to wear a mask indoors right now