I can definitely see the argument for campusing on training boards rather than a campusboard. Hoever I belive another pro campusboard argument is, that (because it is so basic) you can make sure that you work both sides of your body equally! When you do campusing on a spraywall, you might lean toards sequences that favour your stronger site. As I personally have a big unbalance in my arms, I think this aspect should not be overlooked. Great Video though!
Quite commonly campus boards start from 35mm+ holds. That's a really good hold. So my tip to everyone here who's new to campusing, if you don't have the finger strength to campus on 35-38mm holds, just go climbing. Forget campusing and fingerboards Just climb. You'll develop so much more technique while climbing and the strength and power will follow you fast in the early stages.
Did this, tore same lumbrical twice (in my first year just unfortunatelly, in second by pushing too hard). Train your fingers in controled environment rather than pushing grades in uncontroled (climbing) and dont forget - always do prehab
@@user-sc9ud8wh3t You're talking about a year / two of bouldering. Obviously you should be training when you have been climbing for so long. I'm talking about the first few months where you really should just climb and have fun.
I'm thankful I found advice like this when I first started this year. I tried a campus board just to see and could barely hang on the deep crimps. Bouldered all summer and now those same crimp holds feel like jugs in comparison.
@@spokanespray dont mind, just didnt get the notification. Accumulation of fatique (including some pockets on easy climbs, so may be i had already damaged it a bit) + weirdly working open grip hold sort of unexpectedly going into 3 f.o. with fully pulled pinky
The biggest pro of a campus setup v. footless boulder is standardization for fitness evaluation. I will do a fresh challenge every 7-14 days to set personal bests on the campus, then once I have maxed that, go on to more creative spray wall campusing. I don't have room for a campus board at home, but a nearby park has a perfect railing setup of eight rungs elevated right over grass, and I have used that to establish a power base sufficient to project 14a at age 65 (nearly 66)
I think one thing about the campusboard which makes it a little less prone to injury as campusing on a training board is that it's much more measurable and due to its repetitive character, it's easier to understand when you are close to getting injured. But that's obviously a very individual thing which works different for everyone. Another reason I really like the campus board is not really specific to the gains you make in comparison to the training board or just campusing boulders, but still significant to me: Campusing on the training board or just on normal boulders in the gym is often seen as a very douchey thing to do (and I totally understand why) which at least makes me hesitant of campussing boulders publicly
Yeah we had another comment about the image of campusing boulders and I think its an important point. We need to be respectful and campusing on a climb someone else is working is just going to come across as a really arrogant thing to do. Though its effective training, so doing it at a quiet time in the gym and sticking to a training board (where people tend to be more focused on training) seems like sensible advise. Maybe keep your top on too, but that's a whole other topic!
I like to end a lot of my sessions with campusing warm down, to get some of my energy out and have fun before leaving the gym. However, I've been opting to do this on my gym's spray wall for this exact reason. I'm not really trying to flex or be a douche, but I don't want to make anyone feel bad and I'd be campusing stuff beginners would be climbing.
It's made out of wood!! Skin is one of my limiting factors and being able to squeeze in an extra session on the campus board that doesn't destroy my skin like plastic does is a blessing.
For me the simplicity of it makes it just perfect for the last stage of my shoulder rehab, getting back to symmetrical engagement on both sides as well as coming back to my original strength level. Very controlled, very measurable, has the advantages of both uni and bilateral excercise and easy on the skin :)
If your shoulders are at all dicey and your fingers are fine, you might consider increasing difficulty by adding a bit of weight. That allows much finer tuning of difficulty than trying for the next reach and hitting it too extended. For example, instead of going from 1-4-6 to 1-4-7, you'd first try to do 1-4-6 with one pound on, then three pounds on, then five pounds on. At some point, you'll be ready to do 1-4-7 really solidly. You'll never have to try it really stretched out. I thought about this during a long period recovering from a shoulder injury I got campusing.
The foot strips are handy for practicing any variety of dynamic moves, square to the wall, with arm/chest swing momentum, etc. Not always easy to find the ideal holds on the walls in a crowded gym.
I think it’s difficult to find the proper amount of stress to you’re fingers if you campus on a normal wall. On a campus board you can get the exact amount of stress on to you’re fingers with the same routine every time. Campussing on a wall i think is better for training the pull muscles of you’re arms.
Campus board is my go to for warming up my fingers . Start off with some body weight hangs , Some front levers to get my back and core woken up . Finish off with a couple of campus sets to get the chain working together and great for seeing how good / bad I feel that day .
One thing I think a campus board is good for is teaching and training the ability to fully pull through a movement. You can learn how to keep the lower arm engaged and pressing and also how to pull with the higher arm until it's time to reach. You could totally do that on a spray wall/board but the basic movement is easier to understand a train on a campus board.
I don't know why it never dawned on me that I could do my campusing on a system board. I've been trying to figure out a way to build and set up a campus board, when I have a perfectly good home wall in my garage.
I really do like the board just because I know what im getting in to each time. Also ... there are a lot of 'bros' at my gym, and I feel that if/when I campus on the wall, I get odd looks as if I'm showing off.
Agreed the campusing does seem like showing off, especially in a busy gym. I wouldn't dare campus on a boulder that someone is trying, for example. Though I think its important to be able to speak openly to others in the gym if you are doing something for training and feel self-conscious.
Maybe it's somewhat far removed, but I would rather do (non-campus) routes near my limit on the kilter board than campusing. I feel that I get plenty of contact strength and upper body power from that, while also learning technique and training tension. Any opinions/experiences on how these compare for you?
what about people that have been climbing lead/trad for 2-3 years and get tweaks if they move to a moon board or something like that? seems like feet on campusing would be a great way to build up strength and resilience. not everyone is a gym bro that can directly go and do campus bouldering. I also disagree that most gyms have jugs in the overhang section. That might be the case where you are but it we are being anecdotal, I go to 3 around my area and only one has one beginner route there. the rest are modern parcour volume bonanzas
Why not to unite the campus board proper and a campusing exercises ok a board/wall? Start in the campus for warming up and next to move to the wall/board!?
Hello lattice, I'm fairly new to campusing and I love the "jump catches", what would be the next step up for that excercise because I can do those quite easily on our smallest rung (our board is not huge)
A good next step is to perform the jump catch, then follow through with the other hand. Either to match the rung you've just caught with the high hand, or pull up to a higher rung. You can then also follow this with simple campus ladders e.g. 1 - 2 - 3
For my part, I like the repeatability/measurability of the campus board (foot off or on). Main reason to keep in in some form IMO. But yeah, ensure we add some more tehcnical stuff is a good idea.
I'm not sure I'll ever train on a campus board, except for benchmark testing if I wanted to try something different. I think in terms of training specificity, a board seems way more relevant. Even without campusing, steep problems with big moves and feet cuts is good to train contact strength and usually involves more complex movement which also improves technique. Straight campusing is a bit of a show-off party trick imo
Nah man I disagree. Campusing isn't a show off party trick. Some people may use it that way, but it's a tried and true method of building power that is extremely common among the vast majority of elite climbers. Sure sure it looks spectacular but that doesn't mean it's not legit. That's like saying hangboarding is a party trick because it looks insane and you can get similar stimulus from bouldering.
Yes, perhaps. But I think working on wrist strength is the most important thing in this case. Strength is very protective and usually the best approach to avoiding injury. Work on the root cause then come back to campusing.
A question if you don't mind. I understand periodisation, cycles etc. But these address peak performance, afaiu, and when you guys talk about fingerboarding and so on, you always insist that it should be part of a mid-term strategy. The question then: if you want to improve your base level in power endurance and, say, finger strength, is there anything intrinsically wrong with doing just that, week in week out (with the odd week off here and there naturally)?
No nothing wrong with that. I think the only thing that might be worth considering is cycling some form of contact strength work with more maximal loads on a fingerboard and also some more base aerobic and anaerobic focused work with more traditional power endurance training. That way the focus/stimulus doesn't get too 'stale'. It less common for us to use but you could consider using a block periodisation approach e.g. acclimation, transmutation and realization. In the absence of that, you could also just mix up the specific session from time to time e.g. max hangs and repeaters. In our experience this helps move things along at a more consistent rate.
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I can definitely see the argument for campusing on training boards rather than a campusboard. Hoever I belive another pro campusboard argument is, that (because it is so basic) you can make sure that you work both sides of your body equally! When you do campusing on a spraywall, you might lean toards sequences that favour your stronger site. As I personally have a big unbalance in my arms, I think this aspect should not be overlooked. Great Video though!
Many boards are symmetrical, and you could easily mirror campus routes. Just another thought.
@@aaronhauptmann869no. Many boards aren’t symmetrical. A select few are
3:35 "I not gonna do 1-5-9, cause is my rest day", LOL🤣
Nice try !!!
You got me 😅😅
Quite commonly campus boards start from 35mm+ holds. That's a really good hold. So my tip to everyone here who's new to campusing, if you don't have the finger strength to campus on 35-38mm holds, just go climbing. Forget campusing and fingerboards Just climb. You'll develop so much more technique while climbing and the strength and power will follow you fast in the early stages.
Did this, tore same lumbrical twice (in my first year just unfortunatelly, in second by pushing too hard). Train your fingers in controled environment rather than pushing grades in uncontroled (climbing) and dont forget - always do prehab
@@user-sc9ud8wh3t You're talking about a year / two of bouldering. Obviously you should be training when you have been climbing for so long. I'm talking about the first few months where you really should just climb and have fun.
@@user-sc9ud8wh3t What did you do to cause a lumbrical tear while climbing that early on, if you don't mind me asking?
I'm thankful I found advice like this when I first started this year. I tried a campus board just to see and could barely hang on the deep crimps. Bouldered all summer and now those same crimp holds feel like jugs in comparison.
@@spokanespray dont mind, just didnt get the notification. Accumulation of fatique (including some pockets on easy climbs, so may be i had already damaged it a bit) + weirdly working open grip hold sort of unexpectedly going into 3 f.o. with fully pulled pinky
Skin is also a factor to consider when footless bouldering cannot be performed on wooden holds
The biggest pro of a campus setup v. footless boulder is standardization for fitness evaluation. I will do a fresh challenge every 7-14 days to set personal bests on the campus, then once I have maxed that, go on to more creative spray wall campusing.
I don't have room for a campus board at home, but a nearby park has a perfect railing setup of eight rungs elevated right over grass, and I have used that to establish a power base sufficient to project 14a at age 65 (nearly 66)
I think one thing about the campusboard which makes it a little less prone to injury as campusing on a training board is that it's much more measurable and due to its repetitive character, it's easier to understand when you are close to getting injured. But that's obviously a very individual thing which works different for everyone.
Another reason I really like the campus board is not really specific to the gains you make in comparison to the training board or just campusing boulders, but still significant to me: Campusing on the training board or just on normal boulders in the gym is often seen as a very douchey thing to do (and I totally understand why) which at least makes me hesitant of campussing boulders publicly
Yeah we had another comment about the image of campusing boulders and I think its an important point. We need to be respectful and campusing on a climb someone else is working is just going to come across as a really arrogant thing to do. Though its effective training, so doing it at a quiet time in the gym and sticking to a training board (where people tend to be more focused on training) seems like sensible advise. Maybe keep your top on too, but that's a whole other topic!
I like to end a lot of my sessions with campusing warm down, to get some of my energy out and have fun before leaving the gym. However, I've been opting to do this on my gym's spray wall for this exact reason. I'm not really trying to flex or be a douche, but I don't want to make anyone feel bad and I'd be campusing stuff beginners would be climbing.
It's made out of wood!! Skin is one of my limiting factors and being able to squeeze in an extra session on the campus board that doesn't destroy my skin like plastic does is a blessing.
For me the simplicity of it makes it just perfect for the last stage of my shoulder rehab, getting back to symmetrical engagement on both sides as well as coming back to my original strength level. Very controlled, very measurable, has the advantages of both uni and bilateral excercise and easy on the skin :)
If your shoulders are at all dicey and your fingers are fine, you might consider increasing difficulty by adding a bit of weight. That allows much finer tuning of difficulty than trying for the next reach and hitting it too extended. For example, instead of going from 1-4-6 to 1-4-7, you'd first try to do 1-4-6 with one pound on, then three pounds on, then five pounds on. At some point, you'll be ready to do 1-4-7 really solidly. You'll never have to try it really stretched out. I thought about this during a long period recovering from a shoulder injury I got campusing.
The foot strips are handy for practicing any variety of dynamic moves, square to the wall, with arm/chest swing momentum, etc. Not always easy to find the ideal holds on the walls in a crowded gym.
I think it’s difficult to find the proper amount of stress to you’re fingers if you campus on a normal wall. On a campus board you can get the exact amount of stress on to you’re fingers with the same routine every time.
Campussing on a wall i think is better for training the pull muscles of you’re arms.
Campus board is my go to for warming up my fingers . Start off with some body weight hangs , Some front levers to get my back and core woken up . Finish off with a couple of campus sets to get the chain working together and great for seeing how good / bad I feel that day .
One thing I think a campus board is good for is teaching and training the ability to fully pull through a movement. You can learn how to keep the lower arm engaged and pressing and also how to pull with the higher arm until it's time to reach. You could totally do that on a spray wall/board but the basic movement is easier to understand a train on a campus board.
Yeah it's a great introduction to campus technique. And the technique is more complex than many people give it credit for.
I can barely hold on a kilter or moon without feet. The idea of campusing is hardcore.. that's a long term goal to work toward for myself
I don't know why it never dawned on me that I could do my campusing on a system board. I've been trying to figure out a way to build and set up a campus board, when I have a perfectly good home wall in my garage.
to think this whole time we've only witnessed your 'rest day' power :D
I watched about 4 campusing videos and no one talks about reps, sets, restrs and such...
Pro for the campus board is that you lose way less skin than searching for a "easy" boulder or something like that.
I really do like the board just because I know what im getting in to each time. Also ... there are a lot of 'bros' at my gym, and I feel that if/when I campus on the wall, I get odd looks as if I'm showing off.
Agreed the campusing does seem like showing off, especially in a busy gym. I wouldn't dare campus on a boulder that someone is trying, for example. Though I think its important to be able to speak openly to others in the gym if you are doing something for training and feel self-conscious.
My spairal stairs are a great campus board
Maybe it's somewhat far removed, but I would rather do (non-campus) routes near my limit on the kilter board than campusing. I feel that I get plenty of contact strength and upper body power from that, while also learning technique and training tension. Any opinions/experiences on how these compare for you?
Can foot on campusig be done after a climbing session ?
What if you can't do 1 - 3 - 5 ? Can you do 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5?
Of course
grip type?
what about people that have been climbing lead/trad for 2-3 years and get tweaks if they move to a moon board or something like that?
seems like feet on campusing would be a great way to build up strength and resilience. not everyone is a gym bro that can directly go and do campus bouldering. I also disagree that most gyms have jugs in the overhang section. That might be the case where you are but it we are being anecdotal, I go to 3 around my area and only one has one beginner route there. the rest are modern parcour volume bonanzas
Why not to unite the campus board proper and a campusing exercises ok a board/wall? Start in the campus for warming up and next to move to the wall/board!?
Yeah, sounds like a great session!
i am pretty good at campusing
Hello lattice,
I'm fairly new to campusing and I love the "jump catches", what would be the next step up for that excercise because I can do those quite easily on our smallest rung (our board is not huge)
A good next step is to perform the jump catch, then follow through with the other hand. Either to match the rung you've just caught with the high hand, or pull up to a higher rung. You can then also follow this with simple campus ladders e.g. 1 - 2 - 3
@@LatticeTraining I'm always jumping twohanded
For my part, I like the repeatability/measurability of the campus board (foot off or on). Main reason to keep in in some form IMO. But yeah, ensure we add some more tehcnical stuff is a good idea.
I'm not sure I'll ever train on a campus board, except for benchmark testing if I wanted to try something different.
I think in terms of training specificity, a board seems way more relevant. Even without campusing, steep problems with big moves and feet cuts is good to train contact strength and usually involves more complex movement which also improves technique.
Straight campusing is a bit of a show-off party trick imo
Nah man I disagree. Campusing isn't a show off party trick. Some people may use it that way, but it's a tried and true method of building power that is extremely common among the vast majority of elite climbers.
Sure sure it looks spectacular but that doesn't mean it's not legit. That's like saying hangboarding is a party trick because it looks insane and you can get similar stimulus from bouldering.
Campus Boarding really hurts my wrists for some reason :( Would doing longer feet on campusboarding be a good approach?
Yes, perhaps. But I think working on wrist strength is the most important thing in this case. Strength is very protective and usually the best approach to avoiding injury. Work on the root cause then come back to campusing.
A question if you don't mind. I understand periodisation, cycles etc. But these address peak performance, afaiu, and when you guys talk about fingerboarding and so on, you always insist that it should be part of a mid-term strategy. The question then: if you want to improve your base level in power endurance and, say, finger strength, is there anything intrinsically wrong with doing just that, week in week out (with the odd week off here and there naturally)?
No nothing wrong with that. I think the only thing that might be worth considering is cycling some form of contact strength work with more maximal loads on a fingerboard and also some more base aerobic and anaerobic focused work with more traditional power endurance training. That way the focus/stimulus doesn't get too 'stale'. It less common for us to use but you could consider using a block periodisation approach e.g. acclimation, transmutation and realization. In the absence of that, you could also just mix up the specific session from time to time e.g. max hangs and repeaters. In our experience this helps move things along at a more consistent rate.
@@LatticeTraining thanks for that. I'll sure think it over.
I made the ‘mistake’ of training the campus board my first 3 weeks in the climbing gym bc I thought it looked cool.
Climbing gyms- only climbing shoes on the wall please
Every instructor ever- 1:29
Oh my...😂
I've never been first before.