a really cool trick is how to use solidworks to notch tubing. You can create a drawing that takes your tube, cuts and unrolls it, you can then print that out, wrap it around the tube and notch for ultra precise joints. You can also create a drawing with balloon annotations, calling out your parts in a list automatically. No need to manually make a spread sheet. This creates arrows to your 3d model with the names of all the parts. Think ikea assembly directions. Part A is called blank and it goes in blank location. I can help if you want to see how this works. Nice work on that design broski!
Great point about the tube notch templates, I have heard of it but totally forgot about it! Will likely use that method for notching the radius arm tubes. I also just looked into using a bill of materials and balloon annotations, thanks for the tip!
Hey man. Pretty good work. Love the links. But its the opositte of what you Said, material holds better in extension than in compression, because of natural bending tendances. You can breake a stick by pushing it, but you cant by pulling it
This is partly true. Jake I know you are still in school, so this is hopefully valuable. Beam buckling models can describe the tendency that Joyce said for long/thin things. From a materials perspective, metals act very similarly in tension or compression (ultimate tensile strength and ultimate compression strength are about equal). But since the beam was in almost pure bending the buckling models don't apply. There is both tensile and compressive stress in the beam during bending, so just as the metal stretched on bottom it may have crinkled up on top. Great job on the new design, I'm glad you get the opportunity to see this project through the whole process! If you have a student license for Solidworks you might be able to use the inbuilt FEA simulation to really see how stress is distributed through through your geometry. Huge learning curve though...
What gabe Said!!!!! Ahahahahah Just remover that solidworkks simulation works mostly with static forces so you should turn your dinamic loads in to static fy force equals massa Times aceleration in most cases. Example. If your car weighs 1000 pounds and you jump 10 foot with 2 foot of travel, you can aknnoledge that in that jump you Will have an decelaration of aproximatly 5 GS, Thats what you use for the calculation of forces aplied
Nice job! A tip on saving Dxf files, make a hotkey for "Normal to Face" and "Save As". Pick the face you want the file to be saved to and hit your hotkey for "Normal to Face" and than "Save As" hotkey. Once in the Save as menu you open the drop down box for file type press "D" it will select Dxf as the file . This has saved me hours in saving Dxf files. Hope it helps you guys and keep up the good work.
@@WingsWorldChannel i like your methods please dont prenest the parts on sheet then give to the cutter. just give them quantities and the dxf for each part like you did
So thankful too have found your channel! I’ve been using fusion 360/ solid works for years and have been wanting to start designing suspension. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for taking the time to go over all that with us. Exactly what I have been looking and asking for. Really excited to see the rebuild come together.
Nice work on the CAD. However, if I was you, I'd add a large tube on the bottom of the arm (similar to the original arm that bent) and reduce the wall on the top tube. Reason is that you now have effectively just a single tube for your arm. The webbing and flat plate on the bottom aren't doing much. Think of this as a fabricated and more elegant structural I-beam (as in a building). Remember what the factory twin I beams looked like. You need the flanges (your tubes, top and bottom) and a web to keep them apart so the flanges can do their job. The farther apart the tubes/flanges are, the more bending moment they resist. The term is "section modulus" and it relates to resistance to bending (in a particular axis). Also, the triangles should ideally meet at each point and not be separate along the plates or on the tubes, etc. Weight of this is going to be your enemy. Hope this helps.
You should use grade 50 steel in pickled and oiled (P&O) instead of regular mild steel. Mild steel has a yield strength of 30 ksi and grade 50 is 50 ksi. P&O will give a cleaner weld without excessive prep. Also tie the inner plates to form a true triangle style truss. The separation between the plates in what would be a corner is the weak spot.
Great points, I hadn't heard of grade 50 until you mentioned it. After prepping the stuff for this kit, we would definitely be interested in using something easier to prep. I agree with you about the spacing on the ribbing, it seems too excessive, will make sure to but all the plates together on future designs. Thank you for the comment
If you have SW Education, you should have the full simulation suite. Even if you don't know the real world forces, you can run some simple sims to pretty easily determine the weakest parts of your design and maybe make changes. Great work!
Awesome video and thank you for sharing. I'm not at the point of building an off road truck yet, but I'm glad to have all this great information in my back pocket when the time comes. Also as I build my street truck, I hope to incorporate some of your ideas in that build. Love your comment on the negative remarks, like my Mom always told me "If you can't say anything good, don't say anything." Once again, Great Job!
Doubling the thickness may double the strength , but it will also double the weight will will add stress to the mounts when airborne. Something to thing about
Awesome work Jake. You are going to be leagues ahead of some new engineers when you get your first job after graduating just because of all the Solidworks practice and general design experience alone. If you can get some experience doing FEA that’s even better! Do you think you’ll try to get a job doing this sort of thing full-time? I’ve been wanting to do this sort of thing for a living for a while but I’m not sure what the market is like. Anyways - awesome work and I’m looking forward to seeing these beefy bois in action 😎
Freaking killer video dude, those beams are gonna be dope. Im trying to do some similar stuff to build a humvee trailer into a camper. I have to build like 3 or 4 of them so that really helps. Thanks dude
nice! why didn’t you connect the bottom spindle tab into the i-beam directly? Also solid works should let you simulate the stresses and you should be able to use the least material possible for a given stress.
Thx 4 this great video. Some 4 yrs ago I've seen a video of this kind of suspension. Good I found it again. Some 25yrs ago at the Universiteit van Stellenbosch, (RSA), I've seen a student that changed the front suspension of his Nissan bakkie 1400cc. So the bakkie was higher and the wishbones longer. He said the hole thing was very difficult and full of problems. His bakkie looked fantastic. U have a great idea. Why do Hummer not used it? What is the difference in kg between the normal wishbone and this new one? Merci
A Hummer has A-arm suspension, the H1 is IFS front and rear with portal axles. The Twin I beam Ford design is from the 1950s-60s. It's an incredibly durable design with excellent suspension travel off road and is relatively simple. When on paved surfaces at high speeds and the suspension droops out it's probably not going to perform as well a A arms but, they work great in dirt and loose material.
Also you can’t have a bend radius less than the thickness of your plate. You show a 1/4” bend radius on a 3/8” plate. You’re asking for the mandrel to be inside the part. There are charts for the minimum recommended bend radius which depends on many factors but a ratio of radius to thickness of 3.5 is a good place to start.
The design for the new beams looks pretty bullet proof! The truss method is the bomb! I really look forward to seeing your design come to fruition! Just a thought but all of the big boys don't use tubes in their beams. If you're going all the way to design your own beams, I'd just design them all out of plate. You obviously have the skillz to draw it up. Like I said, just a thought, You are defiantly on the right track for sure!!! Keep up the awesome work boys!!! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
I have always liked the idea of using a tube to tie in the bung for the heim, seems like a very strong way to go. Makes things a little bit harder in assembly but not too bad!
@@WingsWorldChannel I agree! Use a foot or so of tube to make the heim joint location. For sure it will make the mounting location a lot easier, especially without machining capability. I really think you boys are going to go somewhere in this industry! You both have the skills and the ambition to get to the top!!! Keep up the awesome work! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
So when the wheels are straight do you get opposite kpi angles on each side to compensate for the beams being staggered? Like one tire will see more inside wear and the other will see more outside wear.
Awesome video, man. Someone else posted below about running the design through Ansys or some other FEA package. Not sure if you have something available through school. That is a great idea because otherwise you are making educated guesses. You might find you can shave pounds off the design which would decrease unsprung weight. The 0.25 wall tube seems like overkill to me based on the truss structure internal to the beam (also square is better than round tube in bending). I guess it is a small amount relative to total unsprung weight, but that is how you would optimize the design. One thing I noticed is the internal ribbing leave some non-triangle shapes. One spot that stands out to me is directly below the flat area for the bump pad/shock mount there is a vertex in the bottom rail. I would run a rib up from that vertex to the tube. You could maybe move the one you already have just to the left of the vertex (see 11:15 for instance) over to the vertex. You really want all of the truss structure of the internal ribbing to make only triangle shapes. This would mean moving some of the endpoints of the ribs so they intersect instead of leaving gaps where they meet the tube (triangles instead of trapezoids). You probably have the parts cut already so I'm not saying do it over. I think what you have is a clear step up over what you had, but having only triangles is ideal. I think you are headed down the correct path with the truss structure internal to the beam. You guys are putting out some killer content.
Thank you for the feedback! I am definitely planning on revising the ribs inside the beam for future sets. I am going to make sure they all intersect, and good point about adding one on the end of the beam where the bottom overlay bends. For now we are going to add another overlay on the bottom of the beam to just add material there. The 0.250 wall tube probably is overkill but that is exactly what we wanted for this set, we don't want to have to deal with bent beams again haha.
Really interesting stuff! Can't believe I'm just now finding this channel. Great tips on lazer cutting (especially the dxf file walkthrough). How much did it endup costing you to get those cuts made?
ADD WELDMENTS TO YOUR FEATURE TREE AND IT WILL CREAT A WELDMENT CUT LIST FOR YOU. ALSO CONVERT EXTRUSIONS TO SHEET METAL FOR FLAT PATTERNS TO BE GENERATED.
I can appreciate using Twin I Beams. Just seems like A Arms are a better option, just my 2 cents. I'm following along...its cool your using Solidworks,, Great experience for ya. A+
No doubt that Center Mounted Arms are the cream of the crop. That is a whole other level when it comes to work though, whole frame is cut, motor moved back, firewall pushed back. Wanted to keep this truck simple with the beams!
@@WingsWorldChannel One idea I have had for moving the engine back in an OBS Ford, I have one and was thinking about it, would be to get the firewall, doghouse and dash from an Econoline that way you have more space between the front wheels, move weight back, shorten drive shaft and you can still work on the engine easily. Might be a bit intense to fabricate, just thought it was an interesting idea for a truck you are jumping.
you could just make a drawing with a cutlist automatically in solidworks and skip that excel step. i like to make complete packets with the cutlist being the cover page and then each component drawing behind it that way you KNOW they have everything. lemme know if you want an example of that!
I have a 1997 F250HD and I would love to adapt this design too. I am fairly sure it would work. You're probably go to have to switch to 5 lug or whatever the Hubs are that they are using.
Not to hate or anything but could you have done it a complete box instead of adding a tube? If you did it like a boxed a arm. Meaning if you make the laser have tabs coming off of it you could build it like legos and then weld it together that way. But those will be badass. I am gonna make some 4x4 f150 beams from scratch.
Hey whats up all.. I guess ur gonna be selling them IBP's ehh lol ask pops what he wants then email me if I luck out. I'm trying to kick off my 01 silvy build for myself and son to have a project to get him his fab cherry 🍒 busted. Ohhh sounds so wrong sorry . But I think know what I mean. BTW so proud of the growth and technological advancement u and the team have progressed with. Myself I have maybe few handfuls of assisted builds some at off road general store. We made tubular crawlers and a few higher speed rigs but none of those were all my doing. I had a white 1980 chevy square body long bed sitting on 35" TA's with hoops and two leafs left with flipped rears custom big boy throw shakles and bumps I pulled 18" cycled usable in the rear and like 10 in front after width plated and no bumps from factory do to Sawzall wanted supper. Who am I to starve a Milwaukie Sawzall they need to eat to right. .. hopefully we can run cross eachither soon id like to take apeek and wheely passed yall lol. Later Johnny .. motojp450f@yahoo.com
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
a really cool trick is how to use solidworks to notch tubing. You can create a drawing that takes your tube, cuts and unrolls it, you can then print that out, wrap it around the tube and notch for ultra precise joints. You can also create a drawing with balloon annotations, calling out your parts in a list automatically. No need to manually make a spread sheet. This creates arrows to your 3d model with the names of all the parts. Think ikea assembly directions. Part A is called blank and it goes in blank location. I can help if you want to see how this works. Nice work on that design broski!
Great point about the tube notch templates, I have heard of it but totally forgot about it! Will likely use that method for notching the radius arm tubes. I also just looked into using a bill of materials and balloon annotations, thanks for the tip!
Hey man. Pretty good work. Love the links. But its the opositte of what you Said, material holds better in extension than in compression, because of natural bending tendances. You can breake a stick by pushing it, but you cant by pulling it
This is partly true. Jake I know you are still in school, so this is hopefully valuable. Beam buckling models can describe the tendency that Joyce said for long/thin things. From a materials perspective, metals act very similarly in tension or compression (ultimate tensile strength and ultimate compression strength are about equal). But since the beam was in almost pure bending the buckling models don't apply. There is both tensile and compressive stress in the beam during bending, so just as the metal stretched on bottom it may have crinkled up on top. Great job on the new design, I'm glad you get the opportunity to see this project through the whole process!
If you have a student license for Solidworks you might be able to use the inbuilt FEA simulation to really see how stress is distributed through through your geometry. Huge learning curve though...
What gabe Said!!!!! Ahahahahah
Just remover that solidworkks simulation works mostly with static forces so you should turn your dinamic loads in to static fy force equals massa Times aceleration in most cases. Example.
If your car weighs 1000 pounds and you jump 10 foot with 2 foot of travel, you can aknnoledge that in that jump you Will have an decelaration of aproximatly 5 GS, Thats what you use for the calculation of forces aplied
Nice job! A tip on saving Dxf files, make a hotkey for "Normal to Face" and "Save As". Pick the face you want the file to be saved to and hit your hotkey for "Normal to Face" and than "Save As" hotkey. Once in the Save as menu you open the drop down box for file type press "D" it will select Dxf as the file . This has saved me hours in saving Dxf files. Hope it helps you guys and keep up the good work.
Very good tip, I will do that! Definitely seemed tedious doing all the pieces haha
@@WingsWorldChannel or you can right click on the part and choose export DXF...then choose your flat pattern option or not
Exactly what I have been trying to learn. You dont know how much I appreciate this video
Alot of good engineering judgment in this design. Good work man
Are you an engineer, though?
@@dougtond1380 I will be.. come May 15th haha. Civil engineering
wow that is wild with the center mount .. Great video
Very nice. Clean methodology to your process. Impressive.
This was a great video, thanks for taking the time to so clearly explain your design process!
Good times Offroad go big then go home. You 2 can certainly sort this , build bigger- go higher. Have fun
Wow! That welded up piece looks LEGIT! I really hope you send the new setup on that same exact jump that broke the last one
you know we will!
mr. csakai's class finally coming in clutch
thanks for sharing the process of getting drawings ready to cut. ive been needing to do that for a table i picked up a year ago. lol
yea it was my first time doing anything like this and I wish I had a similar video to watch to get the know-how! Hopefully this helps people out
@@WingsWorldChannel i like your methods please dont prenest the parts on sheet then give to the cutter. just give them quantities and the dxf for each part like you did
So thankful too have found your channel! I’ve been using fusion 360/ solid works for years and have been wanting to start designing suspension. Thank you for sharing!
Great job. Thanks for share, keep follow
Thank you for taking the time to go over all that with us. Exactly what I have been looking and asking for. Really excited to see the rebuild come together.
Great stuff! Glad to see you guys back at it. I love how you guys get into the knitty-gritty details. Too many people gloss over that stuff.
Good stuff. The beams and arms will be strong, and very heavy. Can't wait to see the swing set.
Nice work on the CAD. However, if I was you, I'd add a large tube on the bottom of the arm (similar to the original arm that bent) and reduce the wall on the top tube. Reason is that you now have effectively just a single tube for your arm. The webbing and flat plate on the bottom aren't doing much. Think of this as a fabricated and more elegant structural I-beam (as in a building). Remember what the factory twin I beams looked like. You need the flanges (your tubes, top and bottom) and a web to keep them apart so the flanges can do their job. The farther apart the tubes/flanges are, the more bending moment they resist. The term is "section modulus" and it relates to resistance to bending (in a particular axis). Also, the triangles should ideally meet at each point and not be separate along the plates or on the tubes, etc. Weight of this is going to be your enemy. Hope this helps.
You should use grade 50 steel in pickled and oiled (P&O) instead of regular mild steel. Mild steel has a yield strength of 30 ksi and grade 50 is 50 ksi. P&O will give a cleaner weld without excessive prep. Also tie the inner plates to form a true triangle style truss. The separation between the plates in what would be a corner is the weak spot.
Great points, I hadn't heard of grade 50 until you mentioned it. After prepping the stuff for this kit, we would definitely be interested in using something easier to prep. I agree with you about the spacing on the ribbing, it seems too excessive, will make sure to but all the plates together on future designs. Thank you for the comment
If you have SW Education, you should have the full simulation suite. Even if you don't know the real world forces, you can run some simple sims to pretty easily determine the weakest parts of your design and maybe make changes. Great work!
Awesome video and thank you for sharing. I'm not at the point of building an off road truck yet, but I'm glad to have all this great information in my back pocket when the time comes. Also as I build my street truck, I hope to incorporate some of your ideas in that build. Love your comment on the negative remarks, like my Mom always told me "If you can't say anything good, don't say anything." Once again, Great Job!
Excellent work sir !
You guys got it down keep kicking ass🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Doubling the thickness may double the strength , but it will also double the weight will will add stress to the mounts when airborne.
Something to thing about
These look to be the beeffiest beams I've ever seen can't wait to watch them work on the truck
Awesome work Jake. You are going to be leagues ahead of some new engineers when you get your first job after graduating just because of all the Solidworks practice and general design experience alone. If you can get some experience doing FEA that’s even better!
Do you think you’ll try to get a job doing this sort of thing full-time? I’ve been wanting to do this sort of thing for a living for a while but I’m not sure what the market is like.
Anyways - awesome work and I’m looking forward to seeing these beefy bois in action 😎
Would 2 bumpstops per beam maybe help distribute the force more evenly and not in one spot
Good job
Freaking killer video dude, those beams are gonna be dope. Im trying to do some similar stuff to build a humvee trailer into a camper. I have to build like 3 or 4 of them so that really helps. Thanks dude
nice! why didn’t you connect the bottom spindle tab into the i-beam directly? Also solid works should let you simulate the stresses and you should be able to use the least material possible for a given stress.
im interested in the bent beams and arms. I emailed you about them a little bit ago. looking foreward to hearing back from you. keep up the good work!
Rad!!! Very well explained. 😎
Nice work!
I don't know anything about all of this, but is this a shit ton of unsprung weight no?
Think about how much a Dana 60 weights...🤷
Always learn a lot from you guys thanks for the videos
Thx 4 this great video. Some 4 yrs ago I've seen a video of this kind of suspension. Good I found it again. Some 25yrs ago at the Universiteit van Stellenbosch, (RSA), I've seen a student that changed the front suspension of his Nissan bakkie 1400cc. So the bakkie was higher and the wishbones longer. He said the hole thing was very difficult and full of problems. His bakkie looked fantastic.
U have a great idea. Why do Hummer not used it? What is the difference in kg between the normal wishbone and this new one? Merci
A Hummer has A-arm suspension, the H1 is IFS front and rear with portal axles. The Twin I beam Ford design is from the 1950s-60s. It's an incredibly durable design with excellent suspension travel off road and is relatively simple. When on paved surfaces at high speeds and the suspension droops out it's probably not going to perform as well a A arms but, they work great in dirt and loose material.
Also you can’t have a bend radius less than the thickness of your plate. You show a 1/4” bend radius on a 3/8” plate. You’re asking for the mandrel to be inside the part. There are charts for the minimum recommended bend radius which depends on many factors but a ratio of radius to thickness of 3.5 is a good place to start.
The only thing I could see is at the braces in the beam should meet together so it can transfer all the energy to everything.
The design for the new beams looks pretty bullet proof! The truss method is the bomb! I really look forward to seeing your design come to fruition! Just a thought but all of the big boys don't use tubes in their beams. If you're going all the way to design your own beams, I'd just design them all out of plate. You obviously have the skillz to draw it up. Like I said, just a thought, You are defiantly on the right track for sure!!! Keep up the awesome work boys!!! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
I have always liked the idea of using a tube to tie in the bung for the heim, seems like a very strong way to go. Makes things a little bit harder in assembly but not too bad!
@@WingsWorldChannel I agree! Use a foot or so of tube to make the heim joint location. For sure it will make the mounting location a lot easier, especially without machining capability. I really think you boys are going to go somewhere in this industry! You both have the skills and the ambition to get to the top!!! Keep up the awesome work! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
They corner better like that I promise lol
Did you guys damage the shocks at all
And loved seeing your work in cad looks great keep it up
Shocks were not damaged luckily, just opting to go with a different setup.
Have you considered selling a set of these? I don’t have a truck to build yet but would be interested in these perhaps
Killin it hommie!
So when the wheels are straight do you get opposite kpi angles on each side to compensate for the beams being staggered? Like one tire will see more inside wear and the other will see more outside wear.
Awesome video, man. Someone else posted below about running the design through Ansys or some other FEA package. Not sure if you have something available through school. That is a great idea because otherwise you are making educated guesses. You might find you can shave pounds off the design which would decrease unsprung weight. The 0.25 wall tube seems like overkill to me based on the truss structure internal to the beam (also square is better than round tube in bending). I guess it is a small amount relative to total unsprung weight, but that is how you would optimize the design.
One thing I noticed is the internal ribbing leave some non-triangle shapes. One spot that stands out to me is directly below the flat area for the bump pad/shock mount there is a vertex in the bottom rail. I would run a rib up from that vertex to the tube. You could maybe move the one you already have just to the left of the vertex (see 11:15 for instance) over to the vertex.
You really want all of the truss structure of the internal ribbing to make only triangle shapes. This would mean moving some of the endpoints of the ribs so they intersect instead of leaving gaps where they meet the tube (triangles instead of trapezoids). You probably have the parts cut already so I'm not saying do it over. I think what you have is a clear step up over what you had, but having only triangles is ideal.
I think you are headed down the correct path with the truss structure internal to the beam. You guys are putting out some killer content.
Thank you for the feedback! I am definitely planning on revising the ribs inside the beam for future sets. I am going to make sure they all intersect, and good point about adding one on the end of the beam where the bottom overlay bends. For now we are going to add another overlay on the bottom of the beam to just add material there. The 0.250 wall tube probably is overkill but that is exactly what we wanted for this set, we don't want to have to deal with bent beams again haha.
Really interesting stuff! Can't believe I'm just now finding this channel.
Great tips on lazer cutting (especially the dxf file walkthrough). How much did it endup costing you to get those cuts made?
Using mild steel, you will be amazed how much heat treating strengths the system.
As usual a really good vid 👌 makes me feel like I can do it.😁
Nice video! What about anti dive and roll center? Should i calculate them in my beam?
9:34 Instead of 8 little internal Ribs Make (1) 3/8" Think I-Beam style plate down the whole length of the 2" Tube.
Finally some new videos.
ADD WELDMENTS TO YOUR FEATURE TREE AND IT WILL CREAT A WELDMENT CUT LIST FOR YOU. ALSO CONVERT EXTRUSIONS TO SHEET METAL FOR FLAT PATTERNS TO BE GENERATED.
Why is no one using cantilevered springs in these trucks (progressive spring/damper rate? Almost every monster truck is
I can appreciate using Twin I Beams. Just seems like A Arms are a better option, just my 2 cents. I'm following along...its cool your using Solidworks,, Great experience for ya. A+
No doubt that Center Mounted Arms are the cream of the crop. That is a whole other level when it comes to work though, whole frame is cut, motor moved back, firewall pushed back. Wanted to keep this truck simple with the beams!
@@WingsWorldChannel One idea I have had for moving the engine back in an OBS Ford, I have one and was thinking about it, would be to get the firewall, doghouse and dash from an Econoline that way you have more space between the front wheels, move weight back, shorten drive shaft and you can still work on the engine easily. Might be a bit intense to fabricate, just thought it was an interesting idea for a truck you are jumping.
you could just make a drawing with a cutlist automatically in solidworks and skip that excel step. i like to make complete packets with the cutlist being the cover page and then each component drawing behind it that way you KNOW they have everything. lemme know if you want an example of that!
send my way!!
Would these work for the f250?
I have a 1997 F250HD and I would love to adapt this design too. I am fairly sure it would work. You're probably go to have to switch to 5 lug or whatever the Hubs are that they are using.
Did you ever sale the of parts, tks
who made the old beams?
Camburg
Hell yes
Yeeewwww
Hey guys, I would like to know if you still have the beams? Comment me back and let me know, I love the channel by the way, you guys are awesome!
👍
Not to hate or anything but could you have done it a complete box instead of adding a tube? If you did it like a boxed a arm. Meaning if you make the laser have tabs coming off of it you could build it like legos and then weld it together that way. But those will be badass. I am gonna make some 4x4 f150 beams from scratch.
I know it is sorta confusing
Why not run a smaller diameter tube on the bottom instead of the long flat plate?
i have a 90 f25 im making into a prerunner
i have some questions
Why wouldn’t you sell the kit? Just curious.
you guys should start selling stuff like this built. or sell design services
So this is just a bottoming out issue? So insufficient spring rate, no bump can and too much air time?
🤙
Looks like you need to take MAE 150
I wish I could!
👍💯
What does daddy do?
I interested buy from you
Hey I wanna buy that old broken bent beam kit if u still have it, wats your email
Hey whats up all.. I guess ur gonna be selling them IBP's ehh lol ask pops what he wants then email me if I luck out. I'm trying to kick off my 01 silvy build for myself and son to have a project to get him his fab cherry 🍒 busted. Ohhh sounds so wrong sorry . But I think know what I mean. BTW so proud of the growth and technological advancement u and the team have progressed with. Myself I have maybe few handfuls of assisted builds some at off road general store. We made tubular crawlers and a few higher speed rigs but none of those were all my doing. I had a white 1980 chevy square body long bed sitting on 35" TA's with hoops and two leafs left with flipped rears custom big boy throw shakles and bumps I pulled 18" cycled usable in the rear and like 10 in front after width plated and no bumps from factory do to Sawzall wanted supper. Who am I to starve a Milwaukie Sawzall they need to eat to right. .. hopefully we can run cross eachither soon id like to take apeek and wheely passed yall lol. Later Johnny .. motojp450f@yahoo.com
Nice you made it to superstition lmao
Wings world part time!!
Wow...i thought that ford suspension left after 1990. I refused to fix any trucks equipped with it.
They still use it on 2wd Super Duty trucks.
What happened? Umm ibeams.... put the proper suspension on there
Omg you didn't even plate properly!
i need to talk to you big time lol how do i message you
👍