Great help .... my truck (1998' 5.7L/Silverado 4X4) just quit after a Longggg trip (approx, 1000 miles) up to Northern Arizona to Flagstaff then off to Page, Az, & the border of Utah, to do some kayaking on Lake Powell ... Any whoooo ---- got ALL the way back home w/no problems; Yet, park the truck in the driveway - at the house & it NEVER started again !! Just cranks & cranks & cranks w/o starting; Yet, didn't have ANY trouble through-out the WHOLE trip !! I was VERY confused about what just happened... Now I've got somewhere to start - thanks to your video !!
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Start by diagnosing the simplest first. Spark plugs - found #3 in my V6 w/a vertical crack. Replaced the entire set w/iridium equivalent and wow - HUGE difference in how they spark. I've always believed especially for my engine (V6 4.3 vortec) that the original plugs are going to be the best bet and usually that's true. GM experience of 40+ yrs says ALWAYS go with AC Delco with the ignition system. Knockoffs fail 90% of the time because of crossfire issues. BWD ARE pretty good - get the gold wire ones ALWAYS. AND DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE FILTER SCREEN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR. Lack of airflow causes a LOT of times moisture issues creating all that garbage on the posts. Much better to replace than clean because the issues keep coming back. HEY GREAT JOB DUDE! Tks!
I had a chevy 350. But same theory, as a rotor and cap are basically the same on vehicles. The rotor had burnt out. Now, you could not see that. When tested with ohms meter, it seemed fine, but I moved the tang a little, and low and behold, no connection. Simple check for rotor. Testing any cap with an ohms meter is good practice too. I graduated WYO Tech years back. It's always smart to test before you replace thing. As I was taught, a mechanic replaces parts driving up costs hoping to solve the problem, a true tech will test, know the problem before replacing anything. Love these vids guys!!
Great video! $35 for parts and I'm back on the road! It feels good to diagnose and buy parts with confidence that they are the parts you actually need!
hey thank you for sharing this,, I was led almost to think my spider injectors were bad,, I checked fire and fuel from top to bottom and couldn't figure out why my blazer wouldn't start!!,, so I bought all new wire n plugs which it needs anyways but I thought that has to be the problem but HOWEVER I watched your video and thought well it's worth a shot and man oh man if it wasn't the dam rotor!!!!,, I took off the old one and out the new one on and held my breathe turning the key!!!,,, and SHAZAMM!!! IT FIRED RIGHT UP!!!,, thanks again for sharing because it sure saved me a lot of money!!!🍺👍👍👍👍
Your a good person with proper values. I hope you do well in all things. Continue helping people, you are changing the world in the best way a single person can. 2 thumbs up on the video! I'm headed to store now to get that plug tester. I usually hold wire over spark plug and get hit sometimes lol. Take care! I learned about that tool this video.
I had the same exact problem. 4.3 vortex. There are two little vents on the distributor that I drilled out to kept moisture form causing a no start on rainy days.
I had a 99 Chevy Astro I believe it was a 4.3 vortex and there wasn't a recall on the distributor but there was a paper out on it suggesting replacing the distributor because the moisture vents were too small and would get plugged up. The replacement part had larger vents.
When you mentioned crossover shorting the light came on for me. I cranked it over while placing my hand on the top of the distributor cap and it shocked me pretty good. So I replaced the cap and rotor like you recommended. It fired right up. I live 40 miles south of you so I’m glad I didn’t have to get towed in. Thanks for the videos.
First time i seen one of your videos good stuff loved the way you presented the task. Very humble guy . Great to watch a video that was not only insightful but enjoyable to watch. Thanks again.
I saw your video for the first time this morning. I was having the same issues as you indicated. I replaced and distributor cap and rotor as you did and sure enough it was the fix. Thank you for your video.
Another informative one for us diyers. I lived in Fairbanks in the early 80's for a few years, that cold winter air does some strange things to a auto !
My truck would not start. When it cranked, it acted like the 350 was out of time. I remembered limping it in 10 years ago and having the same symptom. After way too much time dealing with the back torx screw, I finally removed it. The cap was badly corroded. The replacement cap had metal screws instead of the machine screws. I used one of those new screws in the front and reused the old good machine screw in the back. The truck started right up and runs great. Thanks for the reminder video!
This video will age very well!! Good stuff here. There’s TONS of these trucks still out there(I own a 2 door Tahoe with 5.7)so I’m sure this has and will continue to help a lot of people.👍
Thank you so much car doctor. I have the same problem in my Chevy van 1999, it's crank but won't start. I thought it is a fuel pump problem but was not. After watching your video I did the same thing that you did then I changed the distributor cap and started well. So, accept my great thanks to you. Nasser Saudi Arabia
I just had to post and say thanks dude.. I just happen to have the exact same setup that you're working on in this video and it helped me diagnose my problem in a very short amount of time.. it turned out it was my cap and rotor but I didn't want to believe that because I just replaced them 6 months ago.. my distributor cap had green corrosion buildup around all the contact points and the rotor was corroded as well.. maybe you could comment about why this only lasted 6 months.. I took them back to AutoZone where I purchased them they did come with a lifetime warranty... I spoke with the manager over there and told him how ridiculous it was that this cap and rotor only lasted 6 months and I didn't want to accept the same brand as a replacement.. I asked if I could upgrade to the AC Delco cap and rotor and just pay the difference... and to my surprise he actually did it for me and it only cost me a few dollars more.. hopefully now this will work out better for me but it was because of you and your video that I was able to solve this so easily.. thanks again and I hope you continue doing more GM 5.7 videos
My 95 Tahoe is doing the same thing. Wasn't getting spark to the engine so I replaced the distributor and ignition coil. Now I have spark but still will not start. My father in law is a retired mechanic and believes it's the fuel filter. The fuel pump is working fine. This has been extremely frustrating!😤 One more thing you explained everything better than any videos I have seen. Great video Sir!!
Be sure to check your spark plugs. If they wear out to .055 " or so, the spark might not jump. I got burned for $1500.00 by a garage which also had a towing service, and they didn't even fix the problem. Sometimes it would start and run, and then it would stall in traffic. Moral of the story, Try to keep it out of garages, and check your plugs. When you get older a few years can turn into a decade and you might not even notice it. Plugs don't last forever. They often get neglected. Don't let it happen to you.
Had the same problem on GM van with 5.7L, the center of the cap was not even there and the rotor contact was also gone !!! It started now and then and ran completely fine, and other time just crank and no start, so it was quite confusing, but turned out to be the rotor/cap - thanks !!!
Good video. Should have cranked engine to show what it did prior to replacing cap and rotor....for people that may not know exactly the sound it makes.
Hey Tim, very nice step-by-step and great explanation with the no start issue. Looks like it was pretty cloudy up there in Alaska. I saw from one of your comments that it's still pretty cold up there. Take care and have a good one!
My practicals are ongoing, yesterday my Teacher created an error in the car and said to me Start the Engine. It was cranking but no start. I found a problem the that Fuel isn't coming by touching the fuel lines near to Fuel-Injectors (it was silent). If 3 systems are fine; Starting System, Ignition System, Fuel System ; Engine must be start? today i was discussing with my classmate and he told me that in new Cars ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor must be OK for Starting the Engine. I do ask you for more better understanding, i LOVE how you work, im very inspired. Thanks Car Dr :)
Sounds like you are learning a lot of great stuff. Also seems like you have a natural inclination of mechanical ability. Some people probably shouldn't be a mechanic since they lack a natural knack to figure out how things work and when they are broken how to fix them. They can't teach you that part in school. Good job!
Yes sir the ECT is called a critical input more than one system needs that info to work correctly it is a thermistor and a lot of the time I think the car will crank no start without that input so nothing burns up
if....you break the distributor body tabs for the cap(since they are plastico) Dorman sells a kit to mount under the holes for $20.....OR you can do what I did. I crossed two zip ties in an X over and under the cap to keep it firmly affixed when Im driving.
Nice fix! I just buy the complete new distributors aftermarket. Under $150 but I would consider this fix on roadside no-start or remote area. Thanks for sharing.
+The Car Doctor me too. replace the ignition coil on the Chevy Vortec with an aftermarket coil. The OEM coil is riveted to the mounting bracket. Shoot, I used zipties to affix the new coil to the mounting bracket and since I lost the 5.5mm screws for the ignition control module I had to use ties to secure that too.
First times watching your videos, nice and clear, well explained and your great to explain. Keep on doing the good work. God bless you and your family and business. Would like to ask you, what scanner would you recommend me to get for a 2013 Tacoma with a V6 and automatic transmission. Thanks, blessings.
Helpful video. Thanks. That spark tester is great...solved another problem i was having. Never heard of that tool. I proved that i do have spark. Set up my phone to video while I hit the key to turn it over. Looked good on 2 cylynders but still didnt start. Took the air handler off and sprayed a little starter fluid...still didn't even fire. That doesn't make sense to me.
Great video. Extremely informative and easy to understand. How do i keep distributor from getting wet? Have had to change out rotor and cap 3x in past year bcz after it rains i hv stalling issues. Its due to rain soon in SA ,TX...
Hi Tim, That's OK. I knew you were busy having fun. I am happy for you. I know you work hard in the winter. I am doing OK. Busy trying to get my truck fixed. I was in an accident a few months ago. I hope you have a great summer's end. See you when you get back my friend. Be safe.
Gray video it's very helpful I've been having an issue and have no spark I'm going to switch out the cap and rotor I have done everything else as far as even crank sensor and now I think I have to do a re learn is there a way to do it without a scan tool
I would have started with the Fuel Pump relay but I guess by checking fuel for Pressure there would be No need thanks for this Helpful Video U make it look so Simple
I have never seen such an interesting dizzy cap like that before, i suspect it was the companys plumber that created it :-D. Thankyou for your video :-D
Fwq dat started right up. Someone took the 88 I was temporary using from underneath my nose to a mechanic shop spent 1,000 to supposedly get it fixed when I was waiting for the next day to come to get a wrench to put it in timing & spend $160.00 to buy the distributor. God dog th hat just started right up man. Congrats.
I’ve lived it with two older GM’s I own, a 2000 Express van and a 1999 K2500. When they get wet and won’t start 9 times out of 10 it’s that poorly engineered distributor cap. I always keep a spare cap and rotor on hand.
+wyattoneable I don't think it set a code. They can cause misfire codes but in this case it was more of a sudden failure. Watch for extended cranking or when it seems like it's flooded before it finally starts. That may be a sign of pending failure of he distributor cap and rotor. Take it easy.
had that problem in my 89 k5 blazer, put a new fuel pump didn't solve problem change the distr cap cranked rite up. could use a good mech like you in Los Angeles !
I have the same motor in my truck. I get a crank but no start when there is moisture in the air or has been raining. It's the only time it does it. I used wire dry & it cured it for a little while. I think it could be the same problem..Your thoughts please... Nice video...
I have 1996 Chevy Silverado 5.7 will not start I have change the cap and rotor the crank sensor in the cam sensor and the plugs. And also have a new fuel pump in it and have fuel pressure in a new fuel filter. It will not start still
are y'all needed to run but number 5 and number 7 is misfiring and I still have spark in both of you change out the spark plug from 1 to 7 change 7 to 8 wire .
Thanks for your info,,my truck is down and will do what you've done. Thanks so much for your help...ordered a spark tester and remote switch like you have good to have these items.
I have a 2003 chevy Silverado v6 it ran when I parked acted normal got in it today cranks. It won't start very odd can you help I'm thinking spark it's been really wet and humid out I can't get the air breather wing not to turn any suggestions please help
That's an idea. The one advantage the tester may have over that is showing an actual voltage passing through the circuit. The timing light is an inductive pickup and may get a signal from a weak spark but fail to identify low voltage caused by a shorted cap or burnt rotor contact. At least that's my working theory but I have not tried the method you suggest and its thought provoking. I will do some testing when I get a chance to see if that's an easier way since I love saving time. Thanks for the input and for stopping by!
What if I sprayed starting fluid and the engine starts for a second and then it shuts off? Can it it be electrical??? Do an engine need electricity to keep it running???
Hot Sauce when you hit read more., It will be about a thousand words.. so don't skip over it , I am fairly though. It is worth reading. You didn't not mention make and model of your car. I am referring to my 1999 Ford expedition. I am not an expert but I've had to read up on 1999 Ford Expedition. I'm also a former TV tech. First, safety. I am texting a book. Do not do anything unsafe . There are many people that are doing things on the net that do things unsafe. Read your cars owner manual. Use a Haynes or similar manual These are some possible scenarios and some thoughts. The first answer is: yes , you always have to have dc supply volts for the car to run.. do I think it is electrical.. no. Remember, I'm guessing. When you spray the ether in it, it is burning it quickly and running out of fuel. I'm not sure .. it's possible for it to be a shutdown circuit, but don't think the car has a shutdown circuit for when it is bypassed with ether.. I think you elimated spark with the ether test just guessing.. Btw the Chilton's manual on the car has a good rundown on it . Reply and I'll help you research this properly. I own all three manuals including Haynes. Where I would think your problem is , is fuel. I suspect that there is no fuel on the fuel line.. on my Ford I have a Schrader valve that can put a gauge on.. you can buy or rent gauges at some Auto stores like Auto zone.. I think you should be looking for 25 pounds of pressure.. I would suspect any thing would make the car sputter and try to start. Also carry a napkin..some say cloth, but cloth can get stuck in that dangerous engine. Put it under the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or small punch and push the valve in, and gas will come out.. keep the car off for this test.. if you think something is dangerous don't do it Look up Schrader's Valve on you tube. Also realize there are people that don't know what they are doing. I have seen things that I know on the right circumstances could be lethal. Btw I would go and get a noid tester kit , make sure you have descent digital voltmeter .. don't use the non digital type. Don't use the free ones either, If you use an analog acldc voltmeter and accidentally have it set for resistance/ohms and touch a DC or 12 volts, it is trash. You can get a real descent digital voltmeter meter or dvm , at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. Now something is causing that fuel to not be there if it's found not to be there. First guess, dc 12 volts not getting to fuel pump.. You can do a quick test, it's not perfect. On my Ford 1999 Expedition, I can have somebody put the key on accessory.. don't try to start it. Now listen to the fuel pump ,, you can also hear it in the driver's seat.. also you should be able to stand several feet away from the fill point and hear the whirl of the fuel pump working.. it will just go for a second or so. If you don't have that.. remember I'm just guessing, you either have no voltage getting to the fuel pump or a bad pump.. and I guess you could have a short.. so let's pursue that . get your owner's manual out.. find out where the fuel pump fuse is.. check for voltage my car should have 12 volts there. If it's is blown fuse.. (oh yes.. use a good test light.sometimes what looks like voltage present could be very decieving,. Invest or rent the right tools. I can explain all this later. I'm texting this.) Well assume if it can light up a test light that it has enough amperage to run the fuel pump control circuit and pump.. btw the actual pump is a little tiny thing in my car.. about three inches.. just thought of this , the check valve goes bad on these assemblies.. get in your car, make sure everything is together. Turn your key to accessory and count to three, 1 2 3. Repeat about 4 times with a couple seconds rest. Listening closely you will hear the fuel pump working. Now start the engine, make sure everything is off of engine clothes, screwdrivers,ect. Now start the car. If it cranks.. my first guess is that the fuel pump has a bad check valve.. it's time to get another fuel pump.. Also your fuel filter should be changed every year or so, it's in your owner's manual. It only takes a few minutes, but is tricky. I recommend getting an estimate on this, after you get it running.. when they go bad they are hard to blow through.. also they can go different ways.. if you decide to do that yourself, make sure you put it in right, should come with instructions.. ok back to troubleshooting.. it's a little unsafe to get under the car.. you have to have good Jack's ect. I do it, but I try to work with the car on the ground. If possible when working on car I try to have my cell phone on and set for 911.. I really suggest limiting under car activity.. but I do it all the time.. you should know your limitations. Suggest having a good mechanic friend help you.... if you don't see the 12 volts going to the fuel pump control, or pump assembly, that's your immediate problem.. Now a lot of cars have a inertia shut off switch.. it is there to cut power to the fuel pump.. in case of an accident. it stops cars from blowing up.. don't ever bypass this.. also btw.on that subject bypassing things can blow out thousands of dollars..don't do it unless you know the circuitry ..I know electronics and have blown whole circuit boards up. Do not try to bypass something.. as a n electronic tech , I did it all the time.. but I knew what was doing.. enough of that. Now let's go back to the fuel pump power supply.. There are relays that go bad.. They would take a long time to tell you about them. I don't know if this will get to you , but I hope this helps. Also some models of my expedition were made with non replaceable relays.. they are soldered in..my guess is that Ford found some valid reasons for doing that.. sometimes for safety and reliability. These boards are 300 or so and often don't fix it. This is part of why bills are upwards of a thousand.. But all said I think you can fix this yourself, with proper tools ect.. There is a fuel pump control module that goes bad on 2002 or so models, it corrodes and falls apart .loses the ground and basically disintegrates, especially on salt roads. It is according to you tube, back the rear bumper. All this info is for my 1999 or so expedition.. get the exact info for your car. I've got work on mine today..
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
The correct Fuel Pressure is 55 to 60 PSI, and while the system hold fuel it does not hold pressure, that is gone few seconds after the engine is turned OFF, however to should build up in 2 to 3 seconds after you turn the key on, it is better to wait about 2 to 3 seconds before you turn the ignition key from ON to START, if you do so the engine will start on just 1/4 crank rather than 2 or 3 if you do not wait. The fuel prime works for less than 6 seconds (during key ON). If fuel filter is "clogged" then the engine will miss under full load (almost feels like misfire due to plugs but it is due to luck of enough fuel). Even with clogged filter the fuel pressure can be 60 PSI at idle, but on acceleration under load can drop to below 36 which is what the injectors need to operate. Wasted lot of time changing spark plugs, when it turned out to be fuel filter, long time ago - like 100K miles.
My '07 Sierra has the 4.3 and is doing the exact same thing. It wouldn't start this morning (at least it did me the favor of waiting until I got home last night). It's been missing for the past week or so and the check engine light has been coming on and off intermittently. The rotor and cap were absolutely fried when my buddy replaced them for me around 5 years ago, engine only had 35,000 miles at the time. It now has 57,000 and I'm 98% certain it's the same issue again this time. My back and hands are riddled with arthritis, but I think I have enough left in the ole tank to do this much.
Very informative and easy to understand. My issue was different though. Replaced wires, rotor, cap, crank position sensor, cam position sensor and distributor. My vehicle (1997 C1500 Suburban) is 180° off TDC. This is why I had very poor performance. There is no TDC alignment groove bracket (removed deliberately??).
Great video and good information... I have a 95 impala lt1.. I know for a fact I got the opti spark wet but was able to drive the car home even though it was running and missing.. pulled everything off replaced the optispark..got everything put back and was about to pour in the antifreeze when I decided I better make sure it will even start... and of course it will not...
I'm glad GM switched to the coil on plug system, although more expensive in parts to fix. I had a '97 and I drove across Canada, everything was fine was in Alberta for about 2 weeks when it stalled on me going down the road, it would crank but not start. When I got it in the shop I pulled the distributor cap to try and find top dead center, I actually thought initially that the timing jumped, but as soon as I got the cap off, found the rotor in pieces, there was a lot of corrosion inside, and the screws were out, I think the rotor got brittle. you would think if it was loose to start with the truck would have been misfiring, but it wasn't it just stalled.
I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali with a 5.7 motor. It died on me. After trouble shooting and ohm test the distributor (no start situation) I got a 0.0 on the ohm meter. I bought a new and did the ohm test on the new one just to make sure. ( I work on my own vehicles but, I'm don't claim to be a mechanic. I do want to make sure I always do it right) I got 39. 89 on ohm. So it confirmed the old was bad. So I replaced it with the new. Made sure I had TDC on cylinder 1. Marked the old distributor before taking it out and marked it after I took it out. When installed the new one. Made sure it was pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap. I still have no start. About a month ago I did a complete time up so all plugs, wires, cap, rotor is all new. Brass contact cap and rotor. Only use good quality parts. I have the old cap and think I will test this tomorrow in case the new one has an issue. I'm stumped now.......
Have the same problem with my 99 Tahoe. It cranks but will not start - going to check the coil, the plugs, rotor and cap. Also, going to check for fuel pressure. Hopefully one of those two items is causing my engine not to run. Thanks for the advice and troubleshooting.
mr tim thank you for your vids and teaching use. have you ever seen a guy on youtube make a test plate to show how the caps crossfire i regret not keeping how he built the tool to show crossfiring on the bench. thank you again if i can find it going to make serval thank you again from west tn
When it would rain my truck wouldn't start ,96 Z 71 5.7 vortex. Plugs ,wires, fuel pump , no start looked at distributor cap and rotor looked good ,started thinking spider. Instead a mechanic gave me an old distributor cap to try. Started right up. Friends truck done the same thing . We replaced the distributor cap and rotor started up. You can't see the problem with the cap but it was bad.
That's a good 'crank no-start' review. I like your modern spark tester, with the long neck to get down into various COP tunnels. Now Tim, if you can only tell me how to quit pulling the end connectors off of plug wires! Heat shields around the plugs often won't let my plug pliers grip the wire low enough to grasp the connector through the boot....
ah yes, the age old chevy spark plug wire issues...good luck with that. Let me know when you find a better way. I will say they make an air powered device that hooks under the boot and blows air into it to help remove it but I'm not sure if that tool will fit in those heat shields. I just wish folks used dielectric grease more often...
I love old-school cars, they are so much easier to diagnose issues on. Excellent job on finding the rotor problem.
What was the problem?
Best video on the 5.7 chevy.
Great help .... my truck (1998' 5.7L/Silverado 4X4) just quit after a Longggg trip (approx, 1000 miles) up to Northern Arizona to Flagstaff then off to Page, Az, & the border of Utah, to do some kayaking on Lake Powell ... Any whoooo ---- got ALL the way back home w/no problems; Yet, park the truck in the driveway - at the house & it NEVER started again !! Just cranks & cranks & cranks w/o starting; Yet, didn't have ANY trouble through-out the WHOLE trip !! I was VERY confused about what just happened... Now I've got somewhere to start - thanks to your video !!
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Changed plugs wires cap rotor .still not working.
Start by diagnosing the simplest first. Spark plugs - found #3 in my V6 w/a vertical crack. Replaced the entire set w/iridium equivalent and wow - HUGE difference in how they spark. I've always believed especially for my engine (V6 4.3 vortec) that the original plugs are going to be the best bet and usually that's true. GM experience of 40+ yrs says ALWAYS go with AC Delco with the ignition system. Knockoffs fail 90% of the time because of crossfire issues. BWD ARE pretty good - get the gold wire ones ALWAYS. AND DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE FILTER SCREEN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR. Lack of airflow causes a LOT of times moisture issues creating all that garbage on the posts. Much better to replace than clean because the issues keep coming back. HEY GREAT JOB DUDE! Tks!
I had a chevy 350. But same theory, as a rotor and cap are basically the same on vehicles. The rotor had burnt out. Now, you could not see that. When tested with ohms meter, it seemed fine, but I moved the tang a little, and low and behold, no connection. Simple check for rotor. Testing any cap with an ohms meter is good practice too. I graduated WYO Tech years back. It's always smart to test before you replace thing. As I was taught, a mechanic replaces parts driving up costs hoping to solve the problem, a true tech will test, know the problem before replacing anything. Love these vids guys!!
Great video! $35 for parts and I'm back on the road! It feels good to diagnose and buy parts with confidence that they are the parts you actually need!
You get OE cap and rotor for that price?
Thinking the same on price, OEM is like $60 to $80 depending on how fast you want to get it just for a cap and rotor.
Mike B
hey thank you for sharing this,, I was led almost to think my spider injectors were bad,, I checked fire and fuel from top to bottom and couldn't figure out why my blazer wouldn't start!!,, so I bought all new wire n plugs which it needs anyways but I thought that has to be the problem but HOWEVER I watched your video and thought well it's worth a shot and man oh man if it wasn't the dam rotor!!!!,, I took off the old one and out the new one on and held my breathe turning the key!!!,,, and SHAZAMM!!! IT FIRED RIGHT UP!!!,, thanks again for sharing because it sure saved me a lot of money!!!🍺👍👍👍👍
Excellent, super glad it was helpful!
God I hope that's what's wrong with mine.
Your a good person with proper values. I hope you do well in all things. Continue helping people, you are changing the world in the best way a single person can. 2 thumbs up on the video! I'm headed to store now to get that plug tester. I usually hold wire over spark plug and get hit sometimes lol. Take care! I learned about that tool this video.
Thank you so much. Blessings!
Thanks sr god bless you it help mi so mach✋
j
Another great video. I love the simple to understand instructions you provide for people. Easy and clear. Your a good guy. Thanks.
I really appreciate that. Blessings!
I had the same exact problem. 4.3 vortex. There are two little vents on the distributor that I drilled out to kept moisture form causing a no start on rainy days.
?? Are you getting M O R E moisture by doing that ? mine wont start on HUMID days
I had a 99 Chevy Astro I believe it was a 4.3 vortex and there wasn't a recall on the distributor but there was a paper out on it suggesting replacing the distributor because the moisture vents were too small and would get plugged up. The replacement part had larger vents.
@@CMounsieur no it was starting better for me.
When you mentioned crossover shorting the light came on for me. I cranked it over while placing my hand on the top of the distributor cap and it shocked me pretty good. So I replaced the cap and rotor like you recommended. It fired right up. I live 40 miles south of you so I’m glad I didn’t have to get towed in. Thanks for the videos.
First time i seen one of your videos good stuff loved the way you presented the task. Very humble guy . Great to watch a video that was not only insightful but enjoyable to watch. Thanks again.
I saw your video for the first time this morning. I was having the same issues as you indicated. I replaced and distributor cap and rotor as you did and sure enough it was the fix. Thank you for your video.
Another informative one for us diyers. I lived in Fairbanks in the early 80's for a few years, that cold winter air does some strange things to a auto !
Indeed. Sure gets cold in Fairbanks. Will be traveling there next month for the restart of the Iditarod sled dog race.
It does that to people too!
My truck would not start. When it cranked, it acted like the 350 was out of time. I remembered limping it in 10 years ago and having the same symptom. After way too much time dealing with the back torx screw, I finally removed it. The cap was badly corroded. The replacement cap had metal screws instead of the machine screws. I used one of those new screws in the front and reused the old good machine screw in the back. The truck started right up and runs great. Thanks for the reminder video!
This video will age very well!! Good stuff here. There’s TONS of these trucks still out there(I own a 2 door Tahoe with 5.7)so I’m sure this has and will continue to help a lot of people.👍
This is an awesome video it help me resolve an issue with my 93 Camaro with the lt1
Thank you so much car doctor. I have the same problem in my Chevy van 1999, it's crank but won't start. I thought it is a fuel pump problem but was not. After watching your video I did the same thing that you did then I changed the distributor cap and started well.
So, accept my great thanks to you.
Nasser
Saudi Arabia
I just had to post and say thanks dude.. I just happen to have the exact same setup that you're working on in this video and it helped me diagnose my problem in a very short amount of time.. it turned out it was my cap and rotor but I didn't want to believe that because I just replaced them 6 months ago.. my distributor cap had green corrosion buildup around all the contact points and the rotor was corroded as well.. maybe you could comment about why this only lasted 6 months.. I took them back to AutoZone where I purchased them they did come with a lifetime warranty... I spoke with the manager over there and told him how ridiculous it was that this cap and rotor only lasted 6 months and I didn't want to accept the same brand as a replacement.. I asked if I could upgrade to the AC Delco cap and rotor and just pay the difference... and to my surprise he actually did it for me and it only cost me a few dollars more.. hopefully now this will work out better for me but it was because of you and your video that I was able to solve this so easily.. thanks again and I hope you continue doing more GM 5.7 videos
BEST PROCEDURE IVE SEEN SO FAR, Do you have a video on going to the next step if it ISN'T the cap and rotor?
I replace my cap an rotor an started up when i had the same issue. I also replaced the fuel filter it was nasty. Or try ur fuel pump
My 95 Tahoe is doing the same thing. Wasn't getting spark to the engine so I replaced the distributor and ignition coil. Now I have spark but still will not start. My father in law is a retired mechanic and believes it's the fuel filter. The fuel pump is working fine. This has been extremely frustrating!😤
One more thing you explained everything better than any videos I have seen. Great video Sir!!
What was it?the problem
Be sure to check your spark plugs. If they wear out to .055 " or so, the spark might not jump. I got burned for $1500.00 by a garage which also had a towing service, and they didn't even fix the problem. Sometimes it would start and run, and then it would stall in traffic. Moral of the story, Try to keep it out of garages, and check your plugs. When you get older a few years can turn into a decade and you might not even notice it. Plugs don't last forever. They often get neglected. Don't let it happen to you.
Good advice!
Plug gap is .60!!
Had the same problem on GM van with 5.7L, the center of the cap was not even there and the rotor contact was also gone !!!
It started now and then and ran completely fine, and other time just crank and no start, so it was quite confusing, but turned out to be the rotor/cap - thanks !!!
Very good! Worst distributor design ever. Glad you got her back on the road. Blessings
Going on a trip to Mexico, you solved one of 4 things I need to fix. Thank you good sir
Glad to help. Hola
great video, got my truck running with your example of how to check coil and spark to plugs
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! We all can learn from each other.
Thank you
I think you just solved my dually 454 issues years later and i found this so much info and im having the same issue
Valuable to me thanks owner 97 GMC 4.3 SLT VERY common / luv my jimmy
I have same problem. 5.7 vortec. Havnt replaced cap and rotor yet. Thx for posting.
Good job! Between you, Scotty Kilmer & ScannerDanner, my life is complete!
My hero !!! You are just like having a teacher next to me ,, you are the best 👍
Good video. Should have cranked engine to show what it did prior to replacing cap and rotor....for people that may not know exactly the sound it makes.
I really enjoyed your video. I miss the old school engines , got a 05 hemi jeep that doesn't want to start wish it was that simple
Thank you for making these videos . I’m always trying to learn new things and your videos are great .👍🇺🇸
Great basic Diagnosis on your no start . Good job !
I always enjoy your videos. Someday, if you haven't already done it, I would like to see you diagnose the ignition control module on a silverado.
That would be a great video.
I see you're wearing shades. Your last couple of videos we all talked about how you never blink. Keep up the great videos. You're awesome 👌
Forgot too tell you... you have some of the best videos on the tube.. keep up the great work man.
+Twolf125 Thanks, I really appreciate that.
Hey Tim, very nice step-by-step and great explanation with the no start issue. Looks like it was pretty cloudy up there in Alaska. I saw from one of your comments that it's still pretty cold up there. Take care and have a good one!
+stuzman52 Yes, still waiting for summer to arrive. Can't wait to get out and do some fishing. Take care.
My practicals are ongoing, yesterday my Teacher created an error in the car and said to me Start the Engine. It was cranking but no start. I found a problem the that Fuel isn't coming by touching the fuel lines near to Fuel-Injectors (it was silent). If 3 systems are fine; Starting System, Ignition System, Fuel System ; Engine must be start? today i was discussing with my classmate and he told me that in new Cars ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor must be OK for Starting the Engine. I do ask you for more better understanding, i LOVE how you work, im very inspired. Thanks Car Dr :)
Sounds like you are learning a lot of great stuff. Also seems like you have a natural inclination of mechanical ability. Some people probably shouldn't be a mechanic since they lack a natural knack to figure out how things work and when they are broken how to fix them. They can't teach you that part in school. Good job!
Thanks so much Car Dr :)
Yes sir the ECT is called a critical input more than one system needs that info to work correctly it is a thermistor and a lot of the time I think the car will crank no start without that input so nothing burns up
You need three things to make an engine run . Spark [ somewhat properly timed spark] Fuel . Compression. No compression .no start.
Muhammad Ali
Thank you sir, unbelievable humility, make you a pleasure to watch.
if....you break the distributor body tabs for the cap(since they are plastico) Dorman sells a kit to mount under the holes for $20.....OR you can do what I did. I crossed two zip ties in an X over and under the cap to keep it firmly affixed when Im driving.
Nice fix! I just buy the complete new distributors aftermarket. Under $150 but I would consider this fix on roadside no-start or remote area. Thanks for sharing.
+The Car Doctor yea for a customer repair sure replace it. but on my 15 year old car with 213,000 miles??? no way.
Don't tell anyone but I use zip ties for lots of stuff.
+The Car Doctor me too. replace the ignition coil on the Chevy Vortec with an aftermarket coil. The OEM coil is riveted to the mounting bracket. Shoot, I used zipties to affix the new coil to the mounting bracket and since I lost the 5.5mm screws for the ignition control module I had to use ties to secure that too.
Cops use them for hand cuffs.
Great video, very professionally done. Ill check my 97 Astro for the same issue hopefully. Thank you for uploading this tutorial.
First times watching your videos, nice and clear, well explained and your great to explain. Keep on doing the good work. God bless you and your family and business. Would like to ask you, what scanner would you recommend me to get for a 2013 Tacoma with a V6 and automatic transmission. Thanks, blessings.
Good job, I am going to try it myself 👍
Dang Why caint I have easy repairs like this Jiminy. Thank you for posting always enjoy watching.
I got lucky this time. Thanks for watching.
@@ThecardoctorTV I have this same truck same engine wont start right now. Once again I thank you
Helpful video. Thanks. That spark tester is great...solved another problem i was having. Never heard of that tool.
I proved that i do have spark. Set up my phone to video while I hit the key to turn it over. Looked good on 2 cylynders but still didnt start. Took the air handler off and sprayed a little starter fluid...still didn't even fire. That doesn't make sense to me.
thank you for the video, I had the exact same problem with my truck and this helped a lot
Glad it helped. Thanks for dropping by!
Did it fix the problem?
Thanks sounds good I didn't have no idea about cap and rotor I will try replacing mine .
Great video. Extremely informative and easy to understand. How do i keep distributor from getting wet? Have had to change out rotor and cap 3x in past year bcz after it rains i hv stalling issues. Its due to rain soon in SA ,TX...
drill 2 small holes in the back of the distributor..be careful not to drill through any wire port. if you are curious about it...reply back.
Hi Tim, That's OK. I knew you were busy having fun. I am happy for you. I know you work hard in the winter. I am doing OK. Busy trying to get my truck fixed. I was in an accident a few months ago. I hope you have a great summer's end. See you when you get back my friend. Be safe.
Sounds good. Hope your good at body work.
Gray video it's very helpful I've been having an issue and have no spark I'm going to switch out the cap and rotor I have done everything else as far as even crank sensor and now I think I have to do a re learn is there a way to do it without a scan tool
Removal of the radio will that cause more problems
Thanks! Truck died at a stop light today. This will most deff help with diagnosis tomorrow 👍👍
Love you're videos, keep up the great work and thank you for what you do!
Thank you so much for watching!
I would have started with the Fuel Pump relay but I guess by checking fuel for Pressure there would be No need thanks for this Helpful Video U make it look so Simple
TH-cam videos always make it look simple..haha. Thanks for watching.
I have never seen such an interesting dizzy cap like that before, i suspect it was the companys plumber that created it :-D.
Thankyou for your video :-D
+zx8401ztv Haha. Yes I think you might be on to something. Thanks for watching.
Fwq dat started right up. Someone took the 88 I was temporary using from underneath my nose to a mechanic shop spent 1,000 to supposedly get it fixed when I was waiting for the next day to come to get a wrench to put it in timing & spend $160.00 to buy the distributor. God dog th hat just started right up man. Congrats.
having the same problem with my 4.3L GMC. thanks for the great informative video!
Sure. let us know what you come up with
I’ve lived it with two older GM’s I own, a 2000 Express van and a 1999 K2500. When they get wet and won’t start 9 times out of 10 it’s that poorly engineered distributor cap. I always keep a spare cap and rotor on hand.
I'm paying attention. I have a 5.7 in my 1998 Chevy truck. Great explanation about the distributor cap. Did this failure set any codes?
+wyattoneable I don't think it set a code. They can cause misfire codes but in this case it was more of a sudden failure. Watch for extended cranking or when it seems like it's flooded before it finally starts. That may be a sign of pending failure of he distributor cap and rotor. Take it easy.
Had the same prob on my 02 Chevy blazer 4.3. Dang caps don't last unless it's a delco
Same with my 97 S-10. AC/Delco for fuel pump too. Two cheap ones only lasted three months each.
Man you are very helpful sir God bless you....my 1999 Chevy suburban is doing exactly what u described in this video. Thank you
THIS IS 5 YEARS OLD. BUT GREAT VIDEO
REALLY INFORMATIVE. THANKS
ARE YOU STILL AT IT.?
had that problem in my 89 k5 blazer, put a new fuel pump didn't solve problem change the distr cap cranked rite up. could use a good mech like you in Los Angeles !
Hey you need to move to Alaska and I can be your mechanic! Thanks for dropping by
Blame it all on that L.A. haze. Just like the Jimmy Buffet song, 'Come Monday'. It'll be alright‼️
I have the same motor in my truck. I get a crank but no start when there is moisture in the air or has been raining. It's the only time it does it. I used wire dry & it cured it for a little while. I think it could be the same problem..Your thoughts please... Nice video...
Yep! Give it a try. Good luck.
I have 1996 Chevy Silverado 5.7 will not start I have change the cap and rotor the crank sensor in the cam sensor and the plugs. And also have a new fuel pump in it and have fuel pressure in a new fuel filter. It will not start still
Did you check it for spark? It sounds like a spark issue if you got fuel. It's easy to run down the system once you know what's not operating.
@@lesglover6515 yes I do have spark
are y'all needed to run but number 5 and number 7 is misfiring and I still have spark in both of you change out the spark plug from 1 to 7 change 7 to 8 wire .
Module?
@@luvstruck2733 I changed out the spider injectors.
Thanks for your info,,my truck is down and will do what you've done. Thanks so much for your help...ordered a spark tester and remote switch like you have good to have these items.
I have a 2003 chevy Silverado v6 it ran when I parked acted normal got in it today cranks. It won't start very odd can you help I'm thinking spark it's been really wet and humid out I can't get the air breather wing not to turn any suggestions please help
Have you checked fuel pressure?
Have you checked your passlock sensor in the ignition? another question is does it seem to be weather related ice cold or wet humid Bring It On
try distributor cap
Tee Dee I have trouble starting after rain
Spray it with PB Blaster n let it soak... pretty simple... 🤨
Thank you for your video , my s10 still won't start I already did that cap and rotor changed ,
My version of working outside is pushing the car inside. :)
+Thomas EXOVCDS as soon as the mosquitoes come out I'll be pushing them in as well...very fast. Before they drain my blood completely.
Thomas EXOVCDS pedroinfante
Thomas EXOVCDS B.B.
Thanks, I get the same problem and for your video I have the chance to fix it for low money regards.
instead of that little spark tester and having to take the wires off, why not hook up a timing light to each wire and see if you get a light
That's an idea. The one advantage the tester may have over that is showing an actual voltage passing through the circuit. The timing light is an inductive pickup and may get a signal from a weak spark but fail to identify low voltage caused by a shorted cap or burnt rotor contact. At least that's my working theory but I have not tried the method you suggest and its thought provoking. I will do some testing when I get a chance to see if that's an easier way since I love saving time. Thanks for the input and for stopping by!
Bad Drivers of North Texas i
Thanks this also works on the Mercury Marine Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI which is the same engine.
What if I sprayed starting fluid and the engine starts for a second and then it shuts off? Can it it be electrical??? Do an engine need electricity to keep it running???
Hot Sauce when you hit read more., It will be about a thousand words.. so don't skip over it , I am fairly though. It is worth reading. You didn't not mention make and model of your car. I am referring to my 1999 Ford expedition. I am not an expert but I've had to read up on 1999 Ford Expedition. I'm also a former TV tech. First, safety. I am texting a book. Do not do anything unsafe . There are many people that are doing things on the net that do things unsafe. Read your cars owner manual. Use a Haynes or similar manual These are some possible scenarios and some thoughts. The first answer is: yes , you always have to have dc supply volts for the car to run.. do I think it is electrical.. no. Remember, I'm guessing. When you spray the ether in it, it is burning it quickly and running out of fuel. I'm not sure .. it's possible for it to be a shutdown circuit, but don't think the car has a shutdown circuit for when it is bypassed with ether.. I think you elimated spark with the ether test just guessing.. Btw the Chilton's manual on the car has a good rundown on it . Reply and I'll help you research this properly. I own all three manuals including Haynes. Where I would think your problem is , is fuel. I suspect that there is no fuel on the fuel line.. on my Ford I have a Schrader valve that can put a gauge on.. you can buy or rent gauges at some Auto stores like Auto zone.. I think you should be looking for 25 pounds of pressure.. I would suspect any thing would make the car sputter and try to start. Also carry a napkin..some say cloth, but cloth can get stuck in that dangerous engine. Put it under the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or small punch and push the valve in, and gas will come out.. keep the car off for this test.. if you think something is dangerous don't do it Look up Schrader's Valve on you tube. Also realize there are people that don't know what they are doing. I have seen things that I know on the right circumstances could be lethal. Btw I would go and get a noid tester kit , make sure you have descent digital voltmeter .. don't use the non digital type. Don't use the free ones either, If you use an analog acldc voltmeter and accidentally have it set for resistance/ohms and touch a DC or 12 volts, it is trash. You can get a real descent digital voltmeter meter or dvm , at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. Now something is causing that fuel to not be there if it's found not to be there. First guess, dc 12 volts not getting to fuel pump.. You can do a quick test, it's not perfect. On my Ford 1999 Expedition, I can have somebody put the key on accessory.. don't try to start it. Now listen to the fuel pump ,, you can also hear it in the driver's seat.. also you should be able to stand several feet away from the fill point and hear the whirl of the fuel pump working.. it will just go for a second or so. If you don't have that.. remember I'm just guessing, you either have no voltage getting to the fuel pump or a bad pump.. and I guess you could have a short.. so let's pursue that . get your owner's manual out.. find out where the fuel pump fuse is.. check for voltage my car should have 12 volts there. If it's is blown fuse.. (oh yes.. use a good test light.sometimes what looks like voltage present could be very decieving,. Invest or rent the right tools. I can explain all this later. I'm texting this.) Well assume if it can light up a test light that it has enough amperage to run the fuel pump control circuit and pump.. btw the actual pump is a little tiny thing in my car.. about three inches.. just thought of this , the check valve goes bad on these assemblies.. get in your car, make sure everything is together. Turn your key to accessory and count to three, 1 2 3. Repeat about 4 times with a couple seconds rest. Listening closely you will hear the fuel pump working. Now start the engine, make sure everything is off of engine clothes, screwdrivers,ect. Now start the car. If it cranks.. my first guess is that the fuel pump has a bad check valve.. it's time to get another fuel pump.. Also your fuel filter should be changed every year or so, it's in your owner's manual. It only takes a few minutes, but is tricky. I recommend getting an estimate on this, after you get it running.. when they go bad they are hard to blow through.. also they can go different ways.. if you decide to do that yourself, make sure you put it in right, should come with instructions.. ok back to troubleshooting.. it's a little unsafe to get under the car.. you have to have good Jack's ect. I do it, but I try to work with the car on the ground. If possible when working on car I try to have my cell phone on and set for 911.. I really suggest limiting under car activity.. but I do it all the time.. you should know your limitations. Suggest having a good mechanic friend help you.... if you don't see the 12 volts going to the fuel pump control, or pump assembly, that's your immediate problem.. Now a lot of cars have a inertia shut off switch.. it is there to cut power to the fuel pump.. in case of an accident. it stops cars from blowing up.. don't ever bypass this.. also btw.on that subject bypassing things can blow out thousands of dollars..don't do it unless you know the circuitry ..I know electronics and have blown whole circuit boards up. Do not try to bypass something.. as a n electronic tech , I did it all the time.. but I knew what was doing.. enough of that. Now let's go back to the fuel pump power supply.. There are relays that go bad.. They would take a long time to tell you about them. I don't know if this will get to you , but I hope this helps. Also some models of my expedition were made with non replaceable relays.. they are soldered in..my guess is that Ford found some valid reasons for doing that.. sometimes for safety and reliability. These boards are 300 or so and often don't fix it. This is part of why bills are upwards of a thousand.. But all said I think you can fix this yourself, with proper tools ect.. There is a fuel pump control module that goes bad on 2002 or so models, it corrodes and falls apart .loses the ground and basically disintegrates, especially on salt roads. It is according to you tube, back the rear bumper. All this info is for my 1999 or so expedition.. get the exact info for your car. I've got work on mine today..
Hot Sauce Yes! Check the codes using a Actron 9690 code tester. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. It has code connect to diagnose codes.
fuel pump
@@budford183 not always
@@budford183 dumbass
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
The correct Fuel Pressure is 55 to 60 PSI, and while the system hold fuel it does not hold pressure, that is gone few seconds after the engine is turned OFF, however to should build up in 2 to 3 seconds after you turn the key on, it is better to wait about 2 to 3 seconds before you turn the ignition key from ON to START, if you do so the engine will start on just 1/4 crank rather than 2 or 3 if you do not wait. The fuel prime works for less than 6 seconds (during key ON). If fuel filter is "clogged" then the engine will miss under full load (almost feels like misfire due to plugs but it is due to luck of enough fuel). Even with clogged filter the fuel pressure can be 60 PSI at idle, but on acceleration under load can drop to below 36 which is what the injectors need to operate.
Wasted lot of time changing spark plugs, when it turned out to be fuel filter, long time ago - like 100K miles.
My '07 Sierra has the 4.3 and is doing the exact same thing. It wouldn't start this morning (at least it did me the favor of waiting until I got home last night). It's been missing for the past week or so and the check engine light has been coming on and off intermittently. The rotor and cap were absolutely fried when my buddy replaced them for me around 5 years ago, engine only had 35,000 miles at the time. It now has 57,000 and I'm 98% certain it's the same issue again this time. My back and hands are riddled with arthritis, but I think I have enough left in the ole tank to do this much.
This video could have been 3 minutes long. Wow
What have you done lately to help anyone out? No one forced you to hang out here for 13 minutes. Are you a whiner, a wiener, or both?
Troll
Thank you Brother...GOD Bless
Liked ♡
Thanks for the video is great continue helping people .
Thanks for the great technician fix #Better than the dealerships fix
big thanks to you sir, we re
placed our distributor and rotor button on our suburban. it's running fine Now
Very nice. Blessings
Very informative and easy to understand. My issue was different though. Replaced wires, rotor, cap, crank position sensor, cam position sensor and distributor. My vehicle (1997 C1500 Suburban) is 180° off TDC. This is why I had very poor performance. There is no TDC alignment groove bracket (removed deliberately??).
Great video Tim.Year ago the rotors were a very common problem.Working outside today it must be getting warmer?
+jimthecarguy It's warming up nicely. Still had to turn on the heater at the house this morning cause it gets chilly at night but spring is upon us!
Thank you so much, I wish you lived near me. Hard for me to get under a big old truck but I'm going to try now, thanks again
Probably the dumbest idea of a distributor cap and rotor ever. Thank you sir for another great video.
Great video and good information... I have a 95 impala lt1.. I know for a fact I got the opti spark wet but was able to drive the car home even though it was running and missing.. pulled everything off replaced the optispark..got everything put back and was about to pour in the antifreeze when I decided I better make sure it will even start... and of course it will not...
I'm glad GM switched to the coil on plug system, although more expensive in parts to fix. I had a '97 and I drove across Canada, everything was fine was in Alberta for about 2 weeks when it stalled on me going down the road, it would crank but not start. When I got it in the shop I pulled the distributor cap to try and find top dead center, I actually thought initially that the timing jumped, but as soon as I got the cap off, found the rotor in pieces, there was a lot of corrosion inside, and the screws were out, I think the rotor got brittle. you would think if it was loose to start with the truck would have been misfiring, but it wasn't it just stalled.
+kenman1717 Sounds exactly like what happened here. Not the fist time I have seen it.
I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali with a 5.7 motor. It died on me. After trouble shooting and ohm test the distributor (no start situation) I got a 0.0 on the ohm meter. I bought a new and did the ohm test on the new one just to make sure. ( I work on my own vehicles but, I'm don't claim to be a mechanic. I do want to make sure I always do it right) I got 39. 89 on ohm. So it confirmed the old was bad. So I replaced it with the new. Made sure I had TDC on cylinder 1. Marked the old distributor before taking it out and marked it after I took it out. When installed the new one. Made sure it was pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap. I still have no start. About a month ago I did a complete time up so all plugs, wires, cap, rotor is all new. Brass contact cap and rotor. Only use good quality parts. I have the old cap and think I will test this tomorrow in case the new one has an issue. I'm stumped now.......
Have the same problem with my 99 Tahoe. It cranks but will not start - going to check the coil, the plugs, rotor and cap. Also, going to check for fuel pressure. Hopefully one of those two items is causing my engine not to run. Thanks for the advice and troubleshooting.
mr tim thank you for your vids and teaching use. have you ever seen a guy on youtube make a test plate to show how the caps crossfire i regret not keeping how he built the tool to show crossfiring on the bench. thank you again if i can find it going to make serval thank you again from west tn
Thanks buddy ;) I hope that's what's up blessing too see your works on here
Have almost identical issue happening tonight with my 99 blazer . Thanks for the video I'll be trying to trouble shoot tomorrow
Good luck. Keep us posted.
Good job on teaching the basics. Thank you.
Thanks a lot just replaced my brother's 5.7 in his YUKON and that's what it's doing iam definitely going to try that
Good luck
Great Info. Thanks 👍
When it would rain my truck wouldn't start ,96 Z 71 5.7 vortex. Plugs ,wires, fuel pump , no start looked at distributor cap and rotor looked good ,started thinking spider. Instead a mechanic gave me an old distributor cap to try. Started right up. Friends truck done the same thing . We replaced the distributor cap and rotor started up. You can't see the problem with the cap but it was bad.
That's a good 'crank no-start' review. I like your modern spark tester, with the long neck to get down into various COP tunnels. Now Tim, if you can only tell me how to quit pulling the end connectors off of plug wires! Heat shields around the plugs often won't let my plug pliers grip the wire low enough to grasp the connector through the boot....
ah yes, the age old chevy spark plug wire issues...good luck with that. Let me know when you find a better way. I will say they make an air powered device that hooks under the boot and blows air into it to help remove it but I'm not sure if that tool will fit in those heat shields. I just wish folks used dielectric grease more often...