Very interesting Darrel T. Today, if you dream of a progress spring for your bike, someone probably sells it. You mention the fitting (Bottom Right) that hooks up to hydraulics? My 2004 Yamaha Roadstar had a version for a simple air hose & fitting. With a reservoir, pump & up/down switches to a pair of relays (Power Window) circuit, you can changed ride height on the fly. I would think air would have to be bleed out somehow. "Tech Tip" With the hole a little tight for the 10mm shank bolt, if you don't have a carbide bit, try chucking a "Rat Tail" file in a drill. Simple guide it with a 4"-6" pipe of conduit, water or gas pipe on a gloved hand. Reversing the drill motor will allow it to climb either direction with a short honing action. Works great. I will look back but removing the shock & dog bone is not what they show in the service manual. I alway have a bike dealer include a free service manual in the deal even if it has to be shipped latter. Thanks very much. I have used the floor jack trick on lower a Chevy lower ball-joint. Placing an old bearing race on the jack, but a double loop of log chain. A wipe of grease, start straight, large round flat-nose punch on control arm. Use what you have right. Thanks! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78.
I have seen your video pop up multiple times when I'm searching for Roadstar stuff. Unfortunately, due to the title, I've never watched it. I didn't realize it had anything to do with the Roadwing conversion.
Could you tell me what you did for the switch for the pump I have the shock installed and just need to add the pump but not sure what I need or how to do it Thanks mike
That’s one benefit. But the main improvement is the adjustable damper/shock. I just figured while I was swapping things around I’d also switch to a progressive spring. But the GL1800 sping is still an improvement over the Roadstar spring.
Hi Darrel. I've got a roadwing setup with a 1300# spring and it still lets the fender sit on the tire when I add my 250# wife to the rear seat...I run a buck 75 in full gear. My question is how can I limit the end travel of the set up so we can ride 2 up... any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Robert
Do you have the RW preload maxed out already? You might try raising the fender a bit. I did this so my hard bags would clear my fishtail exhaust. Loosen the horn bolt nut a little bit. Then remove the two bolts under the seat that hold the fender. Then you can swing the fender up. Place washers between the fender and the frame where the two bolts go. It’s a bit clumsy to hold them there while you get the bolts in. I used small pieces of double sided tape. Be sure to tighten the horn nut. I think it’s like 100 ftlbs. A standard thickness washer will raise the back if the fender about 1”. If you need more then add two.
In this case I was changing the shock using one from a Goldwing. Grinding the rocker isn’t always necessary. It depends on how accurately you drill the holes in the mounting flange.
I think a progressive spring with the oem shock would be an improvement, but not as good as the Goldwing/Roadwing shock and stock spring. In my opinion the Roadwing with a progressive spring is the best combination.
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You are the man!!! I've tried everything to remove that spring without the spring compressor tool. It was easy as pie with your method...
r1sabotage Glad it worked for you.
Very interesting Darrel T. Today, if you dream of a progress spring for your bike, someone probably sells it. You mention the fitting (Bottom Right) that hooks up to hydraulics? My 2004 Yamaha Roadstar had a version for a simple air hose & fitting. With a reservoir, pump & up/down switches to a pair of relays (Power Window) circuit, you can changed ride height on the fly. I would think air would have to be bleed out somehow. "Tech Tip" With the hole a little tight for the 10mm shank bolt, if you don't have a carbide bit, try chucking a "Rat Tail" file in a drill. Simple guide it with a 4"-6" pipe of conduit, water or gas pipe on a gloved hand. Reversing the drill motor will allow it to climb either direction with a short honing action. Works great.
I will look back but removing the shock & dog bone is not what they show in the service manual. I alway have a bike dealer include a free service manual in the deal even if it has to be shipped latter.
Thanks very much. I have used the floor jack trick on lower a Chevy lower ball-joint. Placing an old bearing race on the jack, but a double loop of log chain. A wipe of grease, start straight, large round flat-nose punch on control arm. Use what you have right.
Thanks! DK. ASE Master Tech since 78.
I have seen your video pop up multiple times when I'm searching for Roadstar stuff. Unfortunately, due to the title, I've never watched it. I didn't realize it had anything to do with the Roadwing conversion.
Holy crap that looks dangerous. I'm glad you said don't to this if you're not comfortable.
Bill Daugherty Not as bad as it looks.
I have a06 roadstar1700 what year gl 1800 would work ?
Could you tell me what you did for the switch for the pump
I have the shock installed and just need to add the pump but not sure what I need or how to do it
Thanks mike
I thought the whole idea of using a GL1800 was because the coil spring has a 900 lb rating the oem roadstar spring i believe is like 750lb
That’s one benefit. But the main improvement is the adjustable damper/shock. I just figured while I was swapping things around I’d also switch to a progressive spring. But the GL1800 sping is still an improvement over the Roadstar spring.
Hi Darrel. I've got a roadwing setup with a 1300# spring and it still lets the fender sit on the tire when I add my 250# wife to the rear seat...I run a buck 75 in full gear.
My question is how can I limit the end travel of the set up so we can ride 2 up... any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Robert
Do you have the RW preload maxed out already?
You might try raising the fender a bit. I did this so my hard bags would clear my fishtail exhaust.
Loosen the horn bolt nut a little bit. Then remove the two bolts under the seat that hold the fender. Then you can swing the fender up. Place washers between the fender and the frame where the two bolts go. It’s a bit clumsy to hold them there while you get the bolts in. I used small pieces of double sided tape. Be sure to tighten the horn nut. I think it’s like 100 ftlbs.
A standard thickness washer will raise the back if the fender about 1”. If you need more then add two.
Was that the same shock, just a new spring? if so, why would you need to grind on the Rocker arm for clearance?
In this case I was changing the shock using one from a Goldwing. Grinding the rocker isn’t always necessary. It depends on how accurately you drill the holes in the mounting flange.
Can you use the original shock with the progressive spring? Would it make for a better ride?
I think a progressive spring with the oem shock would be an improvement, but not as good as the Goldwing/Roadwing shock and stock spring.
In my opinion the Roadwing with a progressive spring is the best combination.
@@tykesplace I'd like to do that but don't have the $450 for it right now. Definitely down the road I will.
@@HotWingz08 Yep. Gotta pick your financial battles. I have a Jeep too, so I really get spread out! lol
Hey I've got one of these shocks I bought for this and sold the bike before I got it on. It was a trike conversion take off. Looks like new.
Does it matter what year gl800 the shock is from?
Fang's Garage I think it does but I’m not sure of what years.