No, but it will make for a momentary "kick" in the system since all the water will have been expelled from the tank before the pump turns on. At that point the system pressure immediately drops from the 43 psi in the tank to "0", causing the pump to turn on which almost instantly brings the pressure back up to the 43 psi in the tank. I'm not sure if those rapid pressure changes can do damage to anything, but it is disconcerting to have your system pressure momentarily drop so radically to zero and then back up. Sort of a water hammer effect. I always used to adjust the pressure switch to match the gauge readings, and then adjust tank pressure. A good test was to remove power from the pump and drain the system down, watching to make sure that the switch would click "on" before the tank was empty. Continuing to draw water off, I took note of the pressure just before it dropped to "0" on the gauge. That would indicate if air needed to be added to the tank or bled off. I don't know to what precision switches and gauges are calibrated, but it was not unusual for there to be several pounds of 'disagreement' between the two....
my father-in-law is a plumber, has his own company like you, and he ALWAYS uses pipe dope on unions. He says the same thing, helps with the binding of the threads and you can get it tighter like it is supposed to be.
I'm not a plumber Steve, but, I do maintenance and repairs on some apartment buildings. Since following your guide line of tape and dope on fittings, I've never had a leak!! You made a believer out of me!
I always put pipe dope on unions, fittings nowadays are junk. I put a union below the pressure switch so I can remove it easily for cleaning. New tank= once it is replaced, water flowing through I time the pump "on" , write it down on the tank and use it to compare later if there's a issue. If it took 50 second new and now it takes 25 seconds something's up! Love the $hit shows when they show up! Dogs are the best.
Marty Forkwater sounds like the check valve is not closing and all the pressure/water is going backwards or the switch is not coming on when it should.Should have water all the time.
Always tough for homeowners to understand the well. Good thing you changed it, they would soon be on pump # 2. Around here pumps are huge money installed too.
@Silver Cymbal Yes, and pulling a couple of hundred feet of well pipe with a pump on the end of it at any time, especially in the middle of winter, is no picnic. Something about a well diggers a** in January...
@@reecenewton3097 I did this. Yanked 200 feet of poly pipe.I have the money to pay others to do it but i stubborn and did it myself. Im 46 years old and now realize I was drunk or stupid when I hatched this idea to do it myself.
I could watch these all day, but I live on a large farm so time is what it is here. Definitely lots to learn here and I appreciate your honesty and good work ethics which you don't really come across too often these days. Everybody wants to sell you something weather or not you need it. I am a cheep old bastid by nature and that's the truth of it. Good videos, well worth watching !
Hearing you ride in your truck brings back memories of riding in a school bus. Dogs weren't allowed on a school bus though. What has the world come to when a dog can't ride on a school bus?! XD
I love Steve's methods of explaining the issues to the customer, no bullshit. Let those homeowners know what's up but still entertaining and professional.
A bunch of BS, dude did not need to change the tank, he told him that because he knew the job would take longer, meaning he'll get paid more money. He already had a tank in his truck, a smaller one at that which he was trying to throw off on a customer. He then took the customer's old tank, which he claimed with wack, and had the tank refurbished and sold then refurbished tank at a profit. All BS, next time instead of wasting time and money on losers like Steve, find you a Mexican who would do the same job for $100 and not try and con you outta your money.
Still amazes me you work alone with how busy you are and even jobs that you can use some help.. God bless you Steve. You motivate us to work hard and make things happen.
WeatherNut27 - I’ve got a couple friends who work for themselves. One guy installs custom screens and he told me that turns down a lot of work. He says that he works mainly for wealthy clients who know him through word of mouth. That way he doesn’t have to waste time giving estimates and avoids a lot of customers who refuse to pay on time.
Lol you're right, I've installed many of them. It is 2 pounds below cut- in. So 38 for 40-60 switch. Too high or too low will cause the pump to kick on and off rapidly and causing damage to the pump.
Well done Steve, had to do same thing last year on a 1 1/2 yr old welltrol that failed. What made it much easier is the hacks who originally did the job used pex and sharkbite.
Two years ago, one of the PVC unions on my hot tub was leaking and I could not get it to stop leaking no matter how tight I torqued the union. I put some flippin’ pipe dope on the union and it stopped the leak.
If your pump kicks on at 40 and you have 43 lbs of air in it, then you're pushing all of the water out before the well kicks on, you've run out of water for a second before it's pumping again. Drop the air down to 38 or 39 so you don't run out of water before it kicks on.
65CSX Because the water is contained in a bladder inside the tank, sorta like an inner tube, but water goes in the tube instead of air. So, all of the water is pushed from the tank into the pipe if the pressure switch is set to turn the pump on at 40 psi, it's in the pipe near the pressure tank, not in the tank itself. The tank is shipped with air already in it, somewhere around 55 psi if I remember right. If you're using the water, the pipe pressure will go below the 43 psi because that bladder pressurizes only the water in the tank, not what's in the pipe once you drop below 43 psi, then all you've got is a 1" pipe full of water at
@@ralfie8801 He charged the bladder to 43 before adding water. There may be some inaccuracy between the controller and the gauges because 43 will never be less than 40.
65CSX He did put air in it, he never said what it had in it to begin with, and he didn't explain why he was putting the air in it. I have those wellXtrol tanks on my well, I just installed them a year and a half ago.I'm telling you they come charged with air from the factory. Mine had around 55 psi in them, I had to let air out of the tanks to make them match my pressure switch settings. I did run into the pressure falling on its face problem I described when I got it all up and running, the cure for that was to not let the tanks empty their water by making the air pressure in them 2 psi less than the pressure switch setting. If they come precharged with air from the factory, then they obviously have air and no water in them, which also means that the water pressure in the pipe can be less than the air pressure in the tank when the tank runs out of water and stops exerting pressure on what's left in the water pipe because the air is captured inside the tank. The bladder is a physical barrier between the water and the air, which means you can use more water than you have air pressure to push before the well kicks back on. He also never showed that gauge drop like a rock for that last 3 psi when the water was all used up and the air stopped exerting pressure on it.
@@ralfie8801 Are your tanks bladder or diaphragm? You say bladder then describe diaphragm. The bladder is like an inner tube. The diaphragm is a separator attached to the tank's wall separating the water and air. They are similar and function the same but internally they are are different.
@@95underscore : Lying he is, a bonafide dick. I give over-the-phone advice all the time, no different from doing so in person. "Dick" is trying to hustle Dude outta money for a service call.
Darn you’re good. You really know your stuff, Steve. No doubt about that. Here is just one thing that makes you unique: you reused a lot of those fittings, and connectors. Most wouldn’t do that.
Bollocks - he replaced perfectly good : drain valve, switch, PRV and gauge. Disconnected more pipes and all wires than he need have done. Not even convinced the tank needed replacing - just re-pressurising.
If there's anybody that doesn't rip people off it's steve, according to what he's shown us- and ive seen quite a bit of his work. If it was my house I wouldn't reuse a single thing, including that expensive 1.25 in check valve
@@millomweb you going to put old tires on a brand new car? Stuff has a lifespan and doesn't last forever. Especially things like a well pressure switch that cycles hundreds of times a week. Cant believe you would argue to reuse piping/fittings on a new tank install. To each his own
Our wells pumped into a 500 gallon tank, then a booster pump from the tank would fill the welltrol tank. 40 cut in 60 cut out just like this. That way the submersible pump in the well wasn't cutting on/off multiple times a day. Its not cheap to replace the pump in the well. If they gotta trip pipe out the well many places here charge by the foot. Not cheap when you have a 400’ well.
Hey steve let me just call you and tell me how much i like your videos while you are in the middle of working lol Im with you inalways put pipe dope on my unions no matter what everyone says not to do it. It does help seal it.
@ Reese Young Right: I think the most important thing it does is lubricate the threads so that it's easier to make the joint up REALLY tight, to give it last UNH!
Did you add a female adapter to the tank elbow off camera? It doesn’t look like it since it appears to be painted blue like the tank. Every tank I have encountered has just a short elbow coming off the center bottom and you need a 11 inch tee. Thanks just curious
Hi Steve you set up the pressure tank wrong. The tank pressure should be 2 PSI below the cut in value, not 2 over. So it this case the tank PSI should be 38 not 42.
It is easy to remember the reason. With that knowledge, it is easy to remember the direction of the pressure. You want the pump to cut in just before the tank is fully empty to prevent wear on the bladder. With tank pressure less than cut in, cut in occurs before fully emptying the tank so the bladder is not stressed and worn early. Grew up in the country on a well.
@@isettech This bit of info was about the best quality part of the whole video - totally agree with you but tbh I don't think that'll really matter - the pressure is at least in the right ball-park ! The real stress on the diaphragm will be when there's not enough air pressure above it meaning the diaphragm will be higher than it should be. I guess that pressure should be checked annually.
@@chipbush0111 Checking for pressure loss can easily be described without a video. What we see in this video is an amateur version of some of what should be done. We don't see whether the pressure loss test was done correctly and the final diagnosis repair was done by disconnecting a lot of things that didn't need disconnecting. Not to mention the replacement of good parts.
FYI: Incorrect pressure tank setting at 30:14. - Per Well-X-Trol: Release or add air as necessary to make the precharge pressure 2 psi BELOW the pressure switch pump cut-in setting. Since you installed a 40/60 pressure switch the cut-in occurs at 40 PSI so your tank pressure should have been set to 38 PSI and not 43. As a result you pump is kicking around 43 PSI i.e., sooner than it should and thus you are actually causing the pump to cycle more often that it would if set correctly. Bottom line... you should have said " a couple pounds LOWER than what the switch is set at it want you want".
Steve I put pipe dope on all my unions as well. Anything with threads I pipe dope it. When you were tightening up that Union it did sound a little dry I had a feeling you are going to have a problem with that. Peace brother and Molly
Did some work on my well setup last week and realized I had done it wrong, thanks to you it is now right, fully drained system, checked air pressure which was way low. Working thanks to you, keep up the good work from NC.
My pressure tank is a very low pressure unit. I suspect it was sized to low for my well production in gal/min. Would it be a normal request to have the plumber check well production before selecting a new pressure tank? We had a home addition with a second bath added, but I don't recall the plumbing from the well being reset, and even after I replaced a bad pressure tank last time our household water pressure is very low- I recall like a 24-40psi switch and tank on it.
Guy on phone says "oh I would never do that"!!! I'm sure if in fact his house did burn down some young geeky lawyer would definitely come after you!!!! I just can't believe people call you. Holy shit!!! Thats Bad Man!!! If I ever call ya it will be to grab a beer somewhere. Lol
I just changed out my pressure tank it was an Ao smith. It was pitting leaking from the bottom it was a 22 gallon. So ibought a 20 gallon replacement no evey 3or 4 times i run water fo 3 min ill get a 20 second delay with no water. Should i tinker with my pressure switch?
Heres a tip: hook hose up to external hose in or lowest tap, now run said hose to below the pressure tank ( like on a hil, the lower part of driveway, a sump pit etc... now open top floor fixture and then the fixture your hose is connected too.... syphon drain everything.., if you shut the pump at the well house then you can open the bib there and open a tap athouse.. boom gravity drain.. I work on these systems often. Ture all pumps off first though. ;)
Was always told to pump tank to 2psi LESS than low pressure cut on. The master is saying 3psi more. Probably doesn't make much difference but what is the best guidance. Good nuf for this neighborhood
It is supposed to be 2 psi below the low cut in, but you’re right- prob doesn’t matter. I would think over , you would run the tank completely empty before the pump kicks in. No?
@@peterwill3699 right, but i was thinking if cut in is 40, and there is 42 of air in the empty tank, the tank would have only air for the last 2 lbs until the well pump cut back in. The other way, if an empty tank has 38 of air, there is some water in the tank when the pump turns back on at 40.
If pressure switch cut-in is set at 40 and tank pressure is set at 42, then pressure switch would always be “satisfied” and pump would never kick-in! Always set tank 2lbs below pressure switch cut-in, as others have recommended.
In '84, moved to a house with a well. I don't think that tank had a bladder. Here's how it worked: When the tank water level fell to expose an air bleeder, the bleeder activated & bled excess air. This lowered the pressure and closed the pump switch. There was a vacuum break in the pump line so that when the pump started, more air was pushed into the tank, replenishing it. So the tank never became waterlogged even though it didn't have a bladder. Some years later, when the pump was replaced, it was with the more modern bladder tank & there was no more air break in the well line, no air coming in from the well line.
John ill second that comment! As a pipefitter I always use dope on the unions to. Just a little bit. Steve is right it helps from binding and lets it seat correctly.
I can't believe a youtuber called to ask a question. Is it not enough that you give us free entertainment with your videos? You always should know personally a good plumber, electrician, handyman, doctor and lastly a lawyer. If the lawyer screws up, call the plumber to pipe wrench to his head. 😆
Pro tip, waterlogged pressure tanks with leaking bladders can be emptied quicker by adding air pressure under the bladder and it won't need a pump to drain it.
They have a bladder, but they dont keep constant pressure. The house pressure fluctuates between the high cut out on the switch and low cut in. Usually 40/60 or 30/50. You can tell when the pump kicks on and pressure hits 60 when showering. Its not a huge difference, but you can tell. There are systems that run constant pressure directly from the well pump and use a very small tank, like 5 gallons, but that is not what is installed here .
@@Samlol23_drrich It is a constant pressure though, the amount of pressure is variable, but is creates a constant pressure. rather than having the pump run all the time, the bladder will cause pressure in the water system that way the pump can rest. I wonder if the original installer had the wrong pressure switch in there cause the bladder to be having to over pressurize causing it to fail prematurely.
Couple queries that are bothering me about some of your PVC work, firstly it appears you don't de-burr the pvc allowing the possibility of waste hang ups in the pipe, possibly causing a blockage in the future. Secondly do you clean up your PVC pipework after you finish? It generally always looks really dirty. I don't know maybe I'm missing something. Anyway food for thought, love the videos.
I agree. i've never seen him do it. He doesn't de-burr copper pipe either. Which is supposed to be on all copper pipe. Some plumbers are set in their ways. It is what it is.
That guys got a bad ass water line coming into the house, mine's only 3/4 but I'm on city water no well, maybe it's supposed to be like that with a well and pressure tank setup
No dope on surface seal area, but threads and moving parts, hell yes! A certificate trainer threatened to flunk me for calling him out on that. I made a rig to prove it! Let's just say, I got certified.
Looks like whoever put that together first, used that yellow weatherstrip adhesive for pipe dope! I knew a guy who used that shit on everything even carburetors. He probably wiped it on his Peter
If they are full of water just tip them to check you will know if they are full, Then that means the bladder inside is ruptured and usually the pump will run continously bouncing on the pressure switch going on and off.
You gotta love when the customer tell you how to fix it. Drives me frickin crazy. Why did you call me
If you knew what’s wrong?
Good job as usual. I was taught thought to set the tank pressure 2 pounds below cut in, but a few pounds here or there won't kill anyone.
No, but it will make for a momentary "kick" in the system since all the water will have been expelled from the tank before the pump turns on. At that point the system pressure immediately drops from the 43 psi in the tank to "0", causing the pump to turn on which almost instantly brings the pressure back up to the 43 psi in the tank. I'm not sure if those rapid pressure changes can do damage to anything, but it is disconcerting to have your system pressure momentarily drop so radically to zero and then back up. Sort of a water hammer effect. I always used to adjust the pressure switch to match the gauge readings, and then adjust tank pressure. A good test was to remove power from the pump and drain the system down, watching to make sure that the switch would click "on" before the tank was empty. Continuing to draw water off, I took note of the pressure just before it dropped to "0" on the gauge. That would indicate if air needed to be added to the tank or bled off. I don't know to what precision switches and gauges are calibrated, but it was not unusual for there to be several pounds of 'disagreement' between the two....
Steve it's suppose to be 2 lb less than the cut in pressure.
That's right, David
Give it a couple of months and it'll be right ;)
Yup. This is absolutely true.
my father-in-law is a plumber, has his own company like you, and he ALWAYS uses pipe dope on unions. He says the same thing, helps with the binding of the threads and you can get it tighter like it is supposed to be.
I'm not a plumber Steve, but, I do maintenance and repairs on some apartment buildings. Since following your guide line of tape and dope on fittings, I've never had a leak!! You made a believer out of me!
Thanks for the early morning wake up show- coffee and bagel in Hand, watching Steven “Next Level”
I always put pipe dope on unions, fittings nowadays are junk.
I put a union below the pressure switch so I can remove it easily for cleaning.
New tank= once it is replaced, water flowing through I time the pump "on" , write it down on the tank and use it to compare later if there's a issue. If it took 50 second new and now it takes 25 seconds something's up!
Love the $hit shows when they show up!
Dogs are the best.
I have 20 delay with no water my pressure tank is 2 gallons smaller can i adjust the switch to rectify?
Marty Forkwater sounds like the check valve is not closing and all the pressure/water is going backwards or the switch is not coming on when it should.Should have water all the time.
Thanks for the video Steve. I was planning on replacing my tank later this year.
Always tough for homeowners to understand the well. Good thing you changed it, they would soon be on pump # 2. Around here pumps are huge money installed too.
@Silver Cymbal Yes, and pulling a couple of hundred feet of well pipe with a pump on the end of it at any time, especially in the middle of winter, is no picnic. Something about a well diggers a** in January...
@@reecenewton3097 I did this. Yanked 200 feet of poly pipe.I have the money to pay others to do it but i stubborn and did it myself. Im 46 years old and now realize I was drunk or stupid when I hatched this idea to do it myself.
I could watch these all day, but I live on a large farm so time is what it is here. Definitely lots to learn here and I appreciate your honesty and good work ethics which you don't really come across too often these days. Everybody wants to sell you something weather or not you need it. I am a cheep old bastid by nature and that's the truth of it. Good videos, well worth watching !
Hearing you ride in your truck brings back memories of riding in a school bus. Dogs weren't allowed on a school bus though. What has the world come to when a dog can't ride on a school bus?! XD
I love Steve's methods of explaining the issues to the customer, no bullshit. Let those homeowners know what's up but still entertaining and professional.
A bunch of BS, dude did not need to change the tank, he told him that because he knew the job would take longer, meaning he'll get paid more money. He already had a tank in his truck, a smaller one at that which he was trying to throw off on a customer. He then took the customer's old tank, which he claimed with wack, and had the tank refurbished and sold then refurbished tank at a profit. All BS, next time instead of wasting time and money on losers like Steve, find you a Mexican who would do the same job for $100 and not try and con you outta your money.
Steve, great video on well pumps, you are a master plumber with long time experience to back it up. Thanks, for the video!
Jeez! I thought the union would break with the amount of force you were using!!
Watching this video and learned how to keep the teflon tape from unravling by wiping it with a rag to set it..Next Level..
Saves your fingers from getting sliced !
You must be that Super Tec in CT.Thanks for that Pro Tip!.
Still amazes me you work alone with how busy you are and even jobs that you can use some help.. God bless you Steve. You motivate us to work hard and make things happen.
WeatherNut27 - I’ve got a couple friends who work for themselves. One guy installs custom screens and he told me that turns down a lot of work. He says that he works mainly for wealthy clients who know him through word of mouth. That way he doesn’t have to waste time giving estimates and avoids a lot of customers who refuse to pay on time.
@@picklerix6162 too many headaches getting too big. As long as your comfortable with finances and everything, working alone is great!
@@picklerix6162 Steve's not alone; he's got Miss Molly to cheer him (and us) up!
Pipe dope on the unions and compression fittings are traits of an experienced technician.
Thx. for the vids and info.
God bless bro.
I always use plumbers grease on unions and also on compression and flare fittings .
I only knew about the Teflon tape
I've read in many manuals the pressure in tank must be 2 psi under the start kick, so 38 psi for a 40-60 switch
Seems reasonable. So when this one's lost 5psi, it'll be right ;)
same here mine said 38
Lol you're right, I've installed many of them. It is 2 pounds below cut- in. So 38 for 40-60 switch. Too high or too low will cause the pump to kick on and off rapidly and causing damage to the pump.
@@DARTHFEAR0N It has to be 'matched' appropriately with the pressure vessel range.
Human breathing is about 2 psi, is not going to make a difference, !stop it!
Well done Steve, had to do same thing last year on a 1 1/2 yr old welltrol that failed. What made it much easier is the hacks who originally did the job used pex and sharkbite.
Two years ago, one of the PVC unions on my hot tub was leaking and I could not get it to stop leaking no matter how tight I torqued the union. I put some flippin’ pipe dope on the union and it stopped the leak.
If your pump kicks on at 40 and you have 43 lbs of air in it, then you're pushing all of the water out before the well kicks on, you've run out of water for a second before it's pumping again. Drop the air down to 38 or 39 so you don't run out of water before it kicks on.
If the tank has 43 ibs, why would the pump kick on.....ever? How would the pressure decrease to 40 psi?
65CSX
Because the water is contained in a bladder inside the tank, sorta like an inner tube, but water goes in the tube instead of air. So, all of the water is pushed from the tank into the pipe if the pressure switch is set to turn the pump on at 40 psi, it's in the pipe near the pressure tank, not in the tank itself. The tank is shipped with air already in it, somewhere around 55 psi if I remember right. If you're using the water, the pipe pressure will go below the 43 psi because that bladder pressurizes only the water in the tank, not what's in the pipe once you drop below 43 psi, then all you've got is a 1" pipe full of water at
@@ralfie8801 He charged the bladder to 43 before adding water. There may be some inaccuracy between the controller and the gauges because 43 will never be less than 40.
65CSX
He did put air in it, he never said what it had in it to begin with, and he didn't explain why he was putting the air in it. I have those wellXtrol tanks on my well, I just installed them a year and a half ago.I'm telling you they come charged with air from the factory. Mine had around 55 psi in them, I had to let air out of the tanks to make them match my pressure switch settings. I did run into the pressure falling on its face problem I described when I got it all up and running, the cure for that was to not let the tanks empty their water by making the air pressure in them 2 psi less than the pressure switch setting. If they come precharged with air from the factory, then they obviously have air and no water in them, which also means that the water pressure in the pipe can be less than the air pressure in the tank when the tank runs out of water and stops exerting pressure on what's left in the water pipe because the air is captured inside the tank. The bladder is a physical barrier between the water and the air, which means you can use more water than you have air pressure to push before the well kicks back on. He also never showed that gauge drop like a rock for that last 3 psi when the water was all used up and the air stopped exerting pressure on it.
@@ralfie8801 Are your tanks bladder or diaphragm? You say bladder then describe diaphragm. The bladder is like an inner tube. The diaphragm is a separator attached to the tank's wall separating the water and air. They are similar and function the same but internally they are are different.
I love how careful Steve is with liability ..it’s true
And never a dick about it
Just tells it like it is
All BS, he just wants Dude to pay him $300 or more for a service call.
@@95underscore : Lying he is, a bonafide dick. I give over-the-phone advice all the time, no different from doing so in person. "Dick" is trying to hustle Dude outta money for a service call.
When they loose their air it means the bladder in the tank is gone.
Edward Heath you are correct that’s why I check the pressure in the tank and the valve to determine than its the tank itself
True don't think he checked shader valve or valve steam they do go bad.
I doubt whether the failed tank has a bladder.
@@65csx83 it has one
@@jets1230 It's a fiberglass Flex Lite tank. Fiberglass tanks are notorious for air leakage.
Yea as a few have said, set bladder psi to 2 psi below cut in pressure.......
It drives me nuts when the customer hangs around and criticizes the little air compressor dance! Lol!
Really, some fan calls you up asking you to diagnose his boiler over the phone? LOL, some people.
How does he know the phone number ... ?
Optron Cordian Easy, Google.
Something a little different this morning! Thanks Steven, nice video.
"Well" done Steven.
Darn you’re good. You really know your stuff, Steve. No doubt about that. Here is just one thing that makes you unique: you reused a lot of those fittings, and connectors. Most wouldn’t do that.
Bollocks - he replaced perfectly good : drain valve, switch, PRV and gauge. Disconnected more pipes and all wires than he need have done.
Not even convinced the tank needed replacing - just re-pressurising.
If there's anybody that doesn't rip people off it's steve, according to what he's shown us- and ive seen quite a bit of his work.
If it was my house I wouldn't reuse a single thing, including that expensive 1.25 in check valve
@@Samlol23_drrich Just knock the house down in that case and build a new one. You'd be happy.
@@millomweb you going to put old tires on a brand new car?
Stuff has a lifespan and doesn't last forever. Especially things like a well pressure switch that cycles hundreds of times a week. Cant believe you would argue to reuse piping/fittings on a new tank install. To each his own
@@Samlol23_drrich May be stuff doesn't last forever but why replace it before its end of life ?
Wow such a clean well kept basement my god mama. That black pipe is a pita
Our wells pumped into a 500 gallon tank, then a booster pump from the tank would fill the welltrol tank. 40 cut in 60 cut out just like this. That way the submersible pump in the well wasn't cutting on/off multiple times a day.
Its not cheap to replace the pump in the well. If they gotta trip pipe out the well many places here charge by the foot. Not cheap when you have a 400’ well.
Hey steve let me just call you and tell me how much i like your videos while you are in the middle of working lol
Im with you inalways put pipe dope on my unions no matter what everyone says not to do it. It does help seal it.
@ Reese Young Right: I think the most important thing it does is lubricate the threads so that it's easier to make the joint up REALLY tight, to give it last UNH!
Did you add a female adapter to the tank elbow off camera? It doesn’t look like it since it appears to be painted blue like the tank. Every tank I have encountered has just a short elbow coming off the center bottom and you need a 11 inch tee. Thanks just curious
Hi Steve you set up the pressure tank wrong. The tank pressure should be 2 PSI below the cut in value, not 2 over. So it this case the tank PSI should be 38 not 42.
It is easy to remember the reason. With that knowledge, it is easy to remember the direction of the pressure. You want the pump to cut in just before the tank is fully empty to prevent wear on the bladder. With tank pressure less than cut in, cut in occurs before fully emptying the tank so the bladder is not stressed and worn early. Grew up in the country on a well.
@@isettech This bit of info was about the best quality part of the whole video - totally agree with you but tbh I don't think that'll really matter - the pressure is at least in the right ball-park !
The real stress on the diaphragm will be when there's not enough air pressure above it meaning the diaphragm will be higher than it should be. I guess that pressure should be checked annually.
I'll go along with that - but note the old one was labelled as 20 psi !
I'll be waiting anxiously for the correct way to do this in your video on your channel. Oh wait, "no content".
@@chipbush0111 Checking for pressure loss can easily be described without a video. What we see in this video is an amateur version of some of what should be done. We don't see whether the pressure loss test was done correctly and the final diagnosis repair was done by disconnecting a lot of things that didn't need disconnecting. Not to mention the replacement of good parts.
i learned why faucet low, have to make sure air blatter correct psi before i ruin well pump. thanks! started to think about 3/4 through video! lol
Ha!
Now your the "old timer"
Thanks for the information
Great Video!
My dad was a plumber for 47 years. Always used pipe dope. Never had problems.
FYI: Incorrect pressure tank setting at 30:14. - Per Well-X-Trol: Release or add air as necessary to make the precharge pressure 2 psi BELOW the pressure switch pump cut-in setting. Since you installed a 40/60 pressure switch the cut-in occurs at 40 PSI so your tank pressure should have been set to 38 PSI and not 43. As a result you pump is kicking around 43 PSI i.e., sooner than it should and thus you are actually causing the pump to cycle more often that it would if set correctly. Bottom line... you should have said " a couple pounds LOWER than what the switch is set at it want you want".
was going to type this. They come precharged at 38 too.
Having pressure issues myself, and started searching to diagnose. On a side now what is considered a short cycle for a submersible pump?
Some pipe dope seals up real good,iinstead of pipe dope i use never seize to lube the threads on the union.
Steve I put pipe dope on all my unions as well. Anything with threads I pipe dope it. When you were tightening up that Union it did sound a little dry I had a feeling you are going to have a problem with that. Peace brother and Molly
Did some work on my well setup last week and realized I had done it wrong, thanks to you it is now right, fully drained system, checked air pressure which was way low. Working thanks to you, keep up the good work from NC.
Thank yourself, Dude wants you to pay him for the advice, or for you to cash app him so money.
My pressure tank is a very low pressure unit. I suspect it was sized to low for my well production in gal/min. Would it be a normal request to have the plumber check well production before selecting a new pressure tank? We had a home addition with a second bath added, but I don't recall the plumbing from the well being reset, and even after I replaced a bad pressure tank last time our household water pressure is very low- I recall like a 24-40psi switch and tank on it.
I was going to comment on the pipe dope being used on the unions......and I ain't 19 years old! lol At the end, you did explain yourself!
Why does nobody talk about 'cycle stop valves'!? Thoughts?
Once I went to a cycle stop valve, I never looked back.
Hey Steve what do you think of them cycle stop 🛑 valves? Are they a gimmick?
Guy on phone says "oh I would never do that"!!! I'm sure if in fact his house did burn down some young geeky lawyer would definitely come after you!!!! I just can't believe people call you. Holy shit!!! Thats Bad Man!!! If I ever call ya it will be to grab a beer somewhere. Lol
Does Oil Filled Gauges last longer? The other kind usually doesn't last very long.
I don’t think the guy was comprehending what the tank is there for. At least now he won’t be burning his water pump out in the near future.
I learned something. All I was aware of a well had a tank, pressure control and a pump.
I just changed out my pressure tank it was an Ao smith. It was pitting leaking from the bottom it was a 22 gallon. So ibought a 20 gallon replacement no evey 3or 4 times i run water fo 3 min ill get a 20 second delay with no water. Should i tinker with my pressure switch?
What PSI is the tank have in it?
Switch needs to cut in a few PSI higher than tank air pressure.
Heres a tip: hook hose up to external hose in or lowest tap, now run said hose to below the pressure tank ( like on a hil, the lower part of driveway, a sump pit etc... now open top floor fixture and then the fixture your hose is connected too.... syphon drain everything.., if you shut the pump at the well house then you can open the bib there and open a tap athouse.. boom gravity drain.. I work on these systems often. Ture all pumps off first though. ;)
Was always told to pump tank to 2psi LESS than low pressure cut on. The master is saying 3psi more. Probably doesn't make much difference but what is the best guidance. Good nuf for this neighborhood
It is supposed to be 2 psi below the low cut in, but you’re right- prob doesn’t matter. I would think over , you would run the tank completely empty before the pump kicks in. No?
The bladder doesnt go to the bottom of the tank,it takes up about a third of it.
In Scotland we always set .2 bar below cut in pressure
@@peterwill3699 right, but i was thinking if cut in is 40, and there is 42 of air in the empty tank, the tank would have only air for the last 2 lbs until the well pump cut back in.
The other way, if an empty tank has 38 of air, there is some water in the tank when the pump turns back on at 40.
If pressure switch cut-in is set at 40 and tank pressure is set at 42, then pressure switch would always be “satisfied” and pump would never kick-in! Always set tank 2lbs below pressure switch cut-in, as others have recommended.
its so nice to work in a clean place
Very rarely is it the pressure relief, the pressure relief is a safety device that's telling you something is wrong
Good post, Steve. Thanks for posting.
A little tech tip with the poly pipe if u don’t want to torch it is to use soap and water and a rubber mallet. Works just as good
Pre-COVID lockdown/January 2020. Good thing he gave this info
My Dad puts Indian Head Gasket Sealer on Pipe fittings. It makes the water taste bad for a few days, but He hardly ever has any leaks.
Great job Steve, but boy am I glad I have city water!
Given you only had a black and white wire am assuming the well pump is 110vac?
In '84, moved to a house with a well. I don't think that tank had a bladder. Here's how it worked: When the tank water level fell to expose an air bleeder, the bleeder activated & bled excess air. This lowered the pressure and closed the pump switch. There was a vacuum break in the pump line so that when the pump started, more air was pushed into the tank, replenishing it. So the tank never became waterlogged even though it didn't have a bladder. Some years later, when the pump was replaced, it was with the more modern bladder tank & there was no more air break in the well line, no air coming in from the well line.
Good jobs steve teds plbg ottawa
best video yet. thank you so much
Hey Steve for once your not in some field stone walled rat hole!
John ill second that comment! As a pipefitter I always use dope on the unions to. Just a little bit. Steve is right it helps from binding and lets it seat correctly.
@@mustangcircut also good in a cup of coffee, when your out of creamer
🤣
Love your videos. Packed with info from your years of experience. Thanks.
I can't believe a youtuber called to ask a question. Is it not enough that you give us free entertainment with your videos? You always should know personally a good plumber, electrician, handyman, doctor and lastly a lawyer. If the lawyer screws up, call the plumber to pipe wrench to his head. 😆
What’s above a Master Plumber? A Lavimoniere Plumber!
Steve, like the oil burner videos, always learning!
Thank you Steven.Perfect job
Nice job. Thanks for the great video's.
Pro tip, waterlogged pressure tanks with leaking bladders can be emptied quicker by adding air pressure under the bladder and it won't need a pump to drain it.
Are those tanks like an expansion tanks with a rubber bladder in the tank to keep constant pressure?
Yes sir
They have a bladder, but they dont keep constant pressure. The house pressure fluctuates between the high cut out on the switch and low cut in. Usually 40/60 or 30/50. You can tell when the pump kicks on and pressure hits 60 when showering. Its not a huge difference, but you can tell.
There are systems that run constant pressure directly from the well pump and use a very small tank, like 5 gallons, but that is not what is installed here .
@@Samlol23_drrich It is a constant pressure though, the amount of pressure is variable, but is creates a constant pressure. rather than having the pump run all the time, the bladder will cause pressure in the water system that way the pump can rest. I wonder if the original installer had the wrong pressure switch in there cause the bladder to be having to over pressurize causing it to fail prematurely.
@@emtfarva thanks for the info. Interesting
My Dad puts Indian Head Gasket Sealer on pipe fittings like that. It makes the water taste bad for a few days, but very seldom leaks.
Good job Steve Finally a job that your not in a dungeon
Couple queries that are bothering me about some of your PVC work, firstly it appears you don't de-burr the pvc allowing the possibility of waste hang ups in the pipe, possibly causing a blockage in the future.
Secondly do you clean up your PVC pipework after you finish? It generally always looks really dirty.
I don't know maybe I'm missing something. Anyway food for thought, love the videos.
I agree. i've never seen him do it. He doesn't de-burr copper pipe either. Which is supposed to be on all copper pipe. Some plumbers are set in their ways. It is what it is.
You tell him how it is Steve i like how you don't take people's bull shit
Great job Steve,very informative, thanks.
I enjoyed watching this video, thanks!
Good ole pipe dope, mama!
Great job.
That guys got a bad ass water line coming into the house, mine's only 3/4 but I'm on city water no well, maybe it's supposed to be like that with a well and pressure tank setup
you are wrong my friend! pressure has to be couple psi lower than the pressure switch kick on setting...so it has to be 38 psi not 43 psi !
No dope on surface seal area, but threads and moving parts, hell yes! A certificate trainer threatened to flunk me for calling him out on that. I made a rig to prove it! Let's just say, I got certified.
A MASTER of his profession !
Why wouldn't you make sure it wasn't leaking from the valve stem?
He didn’t get much service life out of that fiberglass tank. That sucks. They are wicked expensive. Nice job with the swap Steve!
What kind of tape do you prefer? Just curious.
Maxell Cr02 High Bias. Mix sound greats in the old Chrysler Lebaron infinity system.
Looks like whoever put that together first, used that yellow weatherstrip adhesive for pipe dope! I knew a guy who used that shit on everything even carburetors. He probably wiped it on his Peter
Good clean install 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 great Video
You know you've got some confidence in you skills when you take the blow torch to the plastic to the plastic pipe.
I use a heat gun on mine................
SAVED TO PLAYLIST. GREAT VID.
At least it was a nice clean open space, didn’t understand a well bladder till now
What a PRO .
What’s the brass tee called
could the schrader valve have been bad ?
@ j garr: It's what you check first. Change it and then try.
If they are full of water just tip them to check you will know if they are full, Then that means the bladder inside is ruptured and usually the pump will run continously bouncing on the pressure switch going on and off.
Well done Steve as usual!
I love your accent👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼