Your mentioning of the important terms (flow rate and static pressure) as well as their description is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You are the first plumber who shows a sound understanding of his trade (profession really) I have ever come across.
Hi just a quick comment, being a building service engineer, I noticed you incoming mains at the start of the video,that your strainer should be positioned on the horizontal, with the filter facing downwards, or on the vertical with the flow going downwards, but never facing upwards as its installed - Im sure manufacturer installation guidance will verify this -see Hattersley valves as a guide. Apart from that, excellent videos and tips. You certainly have trade experience and it shows in your excellent videos and trademanship.
Hi Roger, accumulators have been in use for many years in commercial buildings - hotels, pubs, schools and so on. They are very effective. Love all your videos, and opinions!
No issues with water flow and static pressure here, static pressure is between 8,5 and 9,5 bar which is quite high. A pressure regulator is needed to bring it down to 4 bar in the house. For the garden I do have a 22mm pipe run of before the pressure regulator, the tap on that pipe fills a bucket in 10 seconds, so about 50l / min. But there is another advantage to the accumulator, that's if the water main supply fails. There is enough water in the accumulator to get taps and toilets going for quite a time.
Great information - Thankyou! Also reminds me of my disappointment when replacing our bathroom. Knowing we had crap water pressure, I very carefully replaced the hot piping to the bath in 22mm all the way - even using formed bends to reduce resistance - then unpacked the new tap to find the risers had pathetic 8mm bores!!
A side problem you can create with a pumped unit is drawing down “mains” causing other users of “main” to completey lose pressure. Check with water system operator befor installing.
Water regulations state that only 12ltrs per min can be drawn out of the mains, and this is what the manufacturers work with. The get around is that if you “Store” the water with a accumulator, break tanks, cold water storage tank. You can boost it to what ever you want
Really informative for me thanks! I moved into a house and have what I think is a similar unpumped device in my loft. It only supplies 2 showers and the hot water.
Fitted a few of these and they are a good idea. Biggest issue with this install is that he has fitted after the pressure reducer, if fitted before then you put more water in the vessel under a higher pressure making it last longer. Also with a accumulator when it is depleted you go back to mains, with a break tank you loose water untill refilled These use to be TWS before Stuart turner bought them out.
Hi Jamie, Thanks for your comment. The AccuBoost accumulator needs to be installed after the PRV to protect the vessel from fluctuations in mains pressure which could damage the bladder. Only unpumped accumulators would revert to the mains once depleted. When a pumped unit is depleted, the pump will continue to run to deliver a minimum of 12L/min.
@@SalamanderPumps good clarification. My fitter got hung up on achieving 3 bar on the prv until I pointed out it was there to protect the pump and vessel and we want it relatively low.
Hi Roger. Thanks for your comment. The AccuBoost 450L will weigh 281kg when filled. Depending where the unit is stored, some reinforcement work may need to be done.
@@jgregory935 The vessel size refers to the total volume e.g. 450L, but this is split almost 50:50 air to water. The air is needed to hold the water under pressure. Thanks
If the cylinder is not changing its water very much doesn't that constitute a dead leg? A potential legionella breeding ground if the temperature is nkt kept below 20`C.
Bought this house a decade ago. Plumbed by a plumber with no common sense. Good street mains pressure on a 3/4 inch supply. Most houses here reduce the 3/4 to a 1/2 for interior supply by putting in a 3/4 x 1/2 x1/2 tee at the entrance, to feed an outside hose bib at what is also a convenient location. That allows garden watering without reducing inside pressure, because the 3/4 carries about twice volume as a 1/2. This guy reduced to 1/2 at entrance, then ran about 20 ft of 1/2 to a 1/2 tee to feed an outside bib in a very inconvenient location. Also reduces inside flow when watering! Used much more pipe than needed just to make things worse. 50 year old job, so the plumber is too old to ask "what were you thinking?"
When did I say I was a plasterer? I have been plumbing for 40 years but in that time I have done a great many other things and take a few sabaticals because plumbing would drive me nuts. If I gave the impression that I have plumbed 5 days a week for 40 years I am sorry. If the sun is shining and I am in the mood I will even do a bit of exterior painting. I have also done a good many loft conversions with my pals.
The first thing people should do is contact their regional water company , here in the north west United utilities will always prove to the property’s boundary if the issue is on public they will renew Pipework or connection for free
That is standard across the country and the minimum pressure is 0.7 bar at the stopcock and you should be able to fill a 2 litre bottle in less than 13 seconds. which equates to around 9 litres per minute. That is not a lot for a shower.
Roger, I can tell by your fridge there that you have your grandkids round a lot ! Or your wife uses those magnetic letters to leave you little love poems. Most probably "Take the bins out", "Shopping at 5pm", "Hang the washing out". Or is that a reflection on why my wife has magnetic letters on our fridge 🤔😆🤗
Hi Lee Yes it is the grandchildren, my wife has given up leaving me messages especially of love and she takes the bins out and mows the lawn. Also for me the secret of a happy marriage is to never go shopping.
@@SkillBuilder 😂Brilliant ! I am not kidding, the number of times other women say to my wife while we are shopping "Why don't you make him stay at home?". I'm always bloody moaning 😩
The mains and the stopcock are under my kitchen sink. Could I run the mains pipe up into my attic (from ground floor, 1st floor to loft) and still benefit from the bladder version or even the pumped ? I will check out their site. What a great solution. I love the bladder cylinder, GENIUS !
Yes it doesn't matter where you put it on the system but you lose a little head pressure if it is high up. You can put them in a shed outside if you have room.
Hi Lee, pumped models should ideally be connected directly after the stop cock. Unpumped models can be located anywhere in the property however if in a shed make sure its protected from frost etc.
I have a new problem after fitting a new kitchen sink mixer tap. The hot flow is extremely slow. I followed the fitting instructions to the T & the exchange was successful with the addition of a couple of stop taps & filters positioned correctly but as for the hot flow, well its just shocking. In fact when both hot & cold are on together its probably worse. Like Roger said in the video, is it just how new mixer taps are?
Hi Peter, to check the pre-charged pressure in the vessel, isolate the electrics and mains supply, empty the vessel and use a pressure gauge attached to the Schrader valve on top of the vessel. To check the current PSI inside the vessel, there would be no requirement to drain it down. Thanks.
Hi Elliott, there's definitely an application for using the AccuBoost to supply a combi boiler or an unvented system. Please take some time to look at page 4 of our installation information on the following link. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/uploads/AccuBoost%20Installation%20Guide%20(Jul%2022).pdf
Can you add a boost tank after the water softener of a well pump? In otherwords, store clean water not directly from the well, did the pressure of the well tank affect it? My problem is when there is a power outage I loose power to the well pump and no water at the house. Do you recommend adding a check valve where the boost tank is connected?
There is a check valve required on the incoming main from the well. A large Boost tank will give you approxiamately half its capacity in water. I drain my Boost by turning off the incoming main and letting the tank deplete under its own compression power. Half the tank is water the other half is air and the air will push all the water out of the tank as it is used.
Hi - sorry but I can’t see how 4 bar pressure delivers only 10l per minute, unless the pipework is partially blocked. Has a flow test at the property meter been done? I get 15l per min with just 1.8 bar.
static pressure means nothing. You can get 8 bar on a 6mm pipe but it won't give you a decent flow rate. The taps are often restricted to something like that.
I’ve had nothing but trouble with everything salamander over the past few years , customer services are scripted and are of no common sense . Stuart turner for me every time from now on . I fitted one of these a couple of years back , incredible vessel . At least 15 minutes worth of pressure before it drops off . A bit of a pig to get into the loft though 😃
Hi Mark, I'm sorry to hear that you feel this way. Our Customer Experience Manager would like to learn more about your experience with us, please can you send us a DM on one of our social media channels with your serial number and contact number? Thanks.
You could have arranged those letters (fridge magnets) to spell out some roood wurdz. Kinky hoses, BAD! Flexi tap tails for mixer taps, pre-packaged and kinked, doubled or tripled over will fail. Have you had kinky hoses? Loafer has. See the damp patch!
to expensive at present plus its what most of the old plumbers learned on compression or push fit all though if fitting boilers or commercial where money permits i can sea your point
All those presfit are overrated the fittings are restricted because of design are not full bore when sizing mains and hot and cold services for buildings they are calculated by load requirements in fixture units for each fixture hot and cold then you calculate main and branch off accordingly your load percentage will vary for different types of occupancies 2 family 3 family school hospital leisure complex etc,all got to do with flow rates at each fixture when maximum loads are required. This is why we do the maths and calculations
Or, instead, insist that the new spur includes a new connection to the main? Unbelievable how much money utility companies take and disgraceful how little they reinvest to keep the infrastructure modern. This is basically an expensive and complicated answer to government policy failure.
@@SkillBuilder ah forgive me I'm in America and at least from my experience, nothing from the actual big main to the point where your meter is has ever been less then ¾inch. I wrongly assumed you meant where your main met the meter. Can you demand the city upgrade from the barbaric practice of half inch pipe from the city main? That feels cruel and unusual as far as punishment goes!
Hi, It's disappointing to hear you feel this way. We want to know what happened to cause this, could you send more info over DM on one of our social media channels? Thanks
Thanks for your comment - the flow and pressure remains constant whilst the vessel is emptying. When the vessel is empty you will see a drop in both flow and pressure, for an unpumped unit this will return to the natural mains flow/pressure or a minimum of 12 L/min on a pumped unit. Our team will ensure that the size of the vessel is specified to give the correct capacity for the demand of the household. Thanks.
Hello Roger. Nice demonstration... I have a couple of questions/points - If you are going to the trouble and the cost of fitting an accumulator and it is a days work to instal, do you not think its worth fitting the pump regardless of thepressure ? After all it can probably be fitted in the same day so little extra labour and you have the insurance against the waetr supplier turning the pressure down in the future. This has happened to us on two occaisions. Do you have a preference between the principal of the accumulator V mains boost tank/pump eg Grundfoss Homeboost 4.5 bar ? We have fitted a few of those with great sucess. I wondered what your thought were... Thank you and enjoy the sun !
Hi Neil I fitted the pumped version as a comparison and it didn't add anything to the performance. If the water company instigates a reduced pressure zone to save their aeging mains then a pump is a very quick and easy option to add. I like the unpumped version because it is silent
Firstly..not needed in 80% of UK homes, and secondly another advert for Skill Builder gains, most people won't be able to afford this system it could run into 1000's of pounds.
@@SkillBuilder hi. Wish more hotels could use this tank with a bladder. I was in UK in a hotel it takes forever to fill up a bath . I know Farmers in South Africa use massive tanks with a bladder for irrigation. Thanks.
😂😂… this is why plumbers charge an arm and a leg when you call them…. Ask them to increase water pressure and they build you a new extension to your house
High end new builds with multiple bath facilities will of course come with all this factored in and kitted out, but of course existing older housing stock can experience issues over time as they put in attic extensions, en suites, and additional wet rooms, so this information is great for people to know.
Hi Roger love your plumbing videos I ran a heating contractors for 30 years in south London and always dealing with flow and pressure problems particularly in Balham and Brixton notorious for low pressures sometimes only 1 bar These accumulators solved many problems for me. One add on tip for you, where even one of these devices would improve but not completely, solve a problem, is to fit balancing valves on the supplies to the individual outlets (just a gate valve with the handle removed) Then similarly to balancing radiators, you can restrict restrict the greedy to favour the needy I used to find it was always the showers, usually at the higher parts of the house, that would suffer to some extent sometimes even after a booster. The combination of booster and balancing was needed on some of the toughest nuts I had to crack with very demanding clients in these expensive areas…..
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this video! Simple, Clear & Practical with a lot of well defined valuable experience! You sound like my late father who was a carpenter by trade with plumbing experience! I lost him a few years ago at the age of 94 years! Thank you again and greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
I have sufficient flow and pressure in the house, but since refitting the kitchen and installing a SureStop to make turning the mains off (we had a burst and my wife couldn't turn the stop tap off) the drop in flow is noticeable when 2 or more taps are turned on. This doesn't cause a problem even with the showers so it's not worth changing anything at the moment. What is interesting is that despite the SureStop being 22mm fitting the bore inside is the same as the 15mm version. Would you consider making a video on the pros and cons of these devices? There is no doubt they are useful in an emergency and where the stop tap is difficult to reach (aren't they all) but given that any restriction on the size of the bore will affect flow rate I think SureStop need to change their product.
Replace the word Surestop with Nightmare! Get rid of it ASAP. I remove them every day of the week. Not only can they reduce your pressure, they are a major source of leaks themselves as they are water pressure operated as you know. As well as that , it will probably not work at all after a few years so don't rely on it. Tip, you may need to turn 2 taps on to get it to kick in. Sorry for the bad news but make sure you have an alternative way to turn water off . 👍
@@kevinmullin4504 Thanks Kevin. I am just a home owner and so obviously only see one rather than many. I have only had it for just over a year and I do test it every now and then. I did fit a new stop cock with the SureStop to make sure that I had a more permanent way of isolating the water supply because I read that they should not be relied upon for extended periods. Interestingly I have spoken to a couple of plumbers (mainly on the heating side) who they they have never been asked to fit one
It’s usually good practice to take a flow rate from a non restricted tap such as an outside tap ….most kitchen taps / basin taps tend to have reduced flow rates these days! Good video roger
Here’s a useful tip: Rotate the stopcock on and off twice a year to keep it free. So many are boxed in and totally inaccessible which is why they seize up.
Hi Roger Thanks for explaining how these boosters work and the pump. The way you explained in every detail in depth and not only that and you went further to explain how to install it. This is the best of the best videos I have seen then other people's videos.
My problem: in the upper floor of house, water comes well of the shower but barely a drop comes out of sink next to it in the same bathroom. Same for a second restroom in the same floor (Flow to toilet siphon is good but barely a drop coming off at the sink to wash hand!). Where could my problem be and I though may be air lock, thus several times cut the water from house main shut off valve in yard and re started with no avid.
Came across a job this week where a plumber/ kitchen fitted hadn't sealed the sink properly. A year later the rear panel under the sink is completely wet and the water has drawn up half way up the panel. He has also fitted a 13amp double socket in this panel within inches of the waste pipes and connectors to the washing machine. Am I right in thinking putting a live socket this close to the plumbing wasntnnot just a bad idea but dangerous? The so called professional fitter is now ignoring the clients he took 27k from! Being an elderly couple with one in ill health. I do feel sorry for them as this cowboy was happy to take their money then just walked away. Still claiming to be the 'best in England '
Bro how about hot water faucet become cold after few minutes?it's called mixing issue? How can solved this issue? Can you help me? Appreciate it thank you
I tried to fix this problem a while back. Had the utilities company round several times, replaced the small bore pipework from the street stop cock to my house etc. The guy from the utilities (after I said I was going to have to fit a pump) said "shouldn't have to fit a pump, it's regulated up the street as the flow and pressure are too high" the never adjusted it for me but its just annoying that the are throttling in for a reason I haven't figured out yet. I still havent installed a pump and just struggled on...
Hi Nathan, the utility provider are required to provide you with around 9l/min to the boundary, however depending on the length of pipe run and the size of the property a pump could be the solution to poor flow you are experiencing. To find out which pump would best suit your system, please take a look at our product selector. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/product-selector
The issue (as stated) is that the water main connection was not replaced properly. We upgraded from 1/2” lead to 25mm MDPE and went from about 15l/m to over 50 L/m on our 3.5bar supply (identical pressure before and after as expected). I could run a shower at 15, a garden hose at over 20 with the kitchen tap also running more than a 20l weir cup could handle). Something is definitely wrong that they need additional kit in this house.
I would also love to know what the flow rate is straight out of their MDPE main before the restrictive stop cock, NRV, filter and PRV. I’d be willing to bet it was a lot higher than after.
I had the same issue - a 15mm main but just over 3 bar pressure. Swapped the cold tank in the loft for 2 x 250L Stuart Turner horizontal vessels. It made a huge difference. Two points to note though: 1. you need to check the pressure at the tank and adjust the air pressure in the bladder accordingly (from memory i think it was about one bar lower than the water pressure. 2. The stored water warms up over time so drinking water isn't as cold. I would recommend fitting a supply to a tap with a non return valve before the accumulators if possible, assuming you've got the pressure and reasonable flow for it.
Hi. Thanks for your comment. You only need to adjust the pressure on unpumped models, but the amount you need to set it by varies depending on the manufacturer so always check the literature. Thanks
Your mentioning of the important terms (flow rate and static pressure) as well as their description is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You are the first plumber who shows a sound understanding of his trade (profession really) I have ever come across.
Just wondering if you could help , our down stairs bathroom toilet has water to the sinks but the toilet has no water it just stopped, I’ve checked the on/off valve and there’s no water pressure there, this pipe goes in the floor, and after that I’ve no idea please if you could help it would be greatly appreciated
How have you tested the on/off valve? It is unlikely that the pipe has suddenly blocked. Often we find a bit of debris has washed into the filter, some need cleaning out twice a year, especially if there are old iron pipes in the mix.
Your mentioning of the important terms (flow rate and static pressure) as well as their description is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You are the first plumber who shows a sound understanding of his trade (profession really) I have ever come across.
Professional plumber .? ( Busi ness man ?)Any way His idea is well come. our house pipe line must able to with Stand high pressure.
Hi just a quick comment, being a building service engineer, I noticed you incoming mains at the start of the video,that your strainer should be positioned on the horizontal, with the filter facing downwards, or on the vertical with the flow going downwards, but never facing upwards as its installed - Im sure manufacturer installation guidance will verify this -see Hattersley valves as a guide. Apart from that, excellent videos and tips. You certainly have trade experience and it shows in your excellent videos and trademanship.
Hi Graham. I think you are right but I just followed the arrows, I hope. I will check it and get back to you.
Good spot Graham, was just thinking the same myself.
Strainer won’t catch much facing that way!
Hi Roger, accumulators have been in use for many years in commercial buildings - hotels, pubs, schools and so on. They are very effective. Love all your videos, and opinions!
Thanks for sharing
No issues with water flow and static pressure here, static pressure is between 8,5 and 9,5 bar which is quite high.
A pressure regulator is needed to bring it down to 4 bar in the house.
For the garden I do have a 22mm pipe run of before the pressure regulator, the tap on that pipe fills a bucket in 10 seconds, so about 50l / min.
But there is another advantage to the accumulator, that's if the water main supply fails. There is enough water in the accumulator to get taps and toilets going for quite a time.
Great information - Thankyou! Also reminds me of my disappointment when replacing our bathroom. Knowing we had crap water pressure, I very carefully replaced the hot piping to the bath in 22mm all the way - even using formed bends to reduce resistance - then unpacked the new tap to find the risers had pathetic 8mm bores!!
You did not waste your time with the 22mm because the resistance is end to end over the entire route and is still lessened by the mainly larger pipe
Fantastic idea. Wellcome. Thank u. from INDIA . TN.
A side problem you can create with a pumped unit is drawing down “mains” causing other users of “main” to completey lose pressure. Check with water system operator befor installing.
That is why the pump is limited to 12 ltrs per minute
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk nice....{not}
Water regulations state that only 12ltrs per min can be drawn out of the mains, and this is what the manufacturers work with.
The get around is that if you “Store” the water with a accumulator, break tanks, cold water storage tank. You can boost it to what ever you want
@@jamiefirbank5747 Nowt wrong with that... unless everyone does it at the same time lol... unlikely but hey ho. 😏
Excellent video and explanation. I couldn't help notice that the kitchen faucet handle is dripping...
Yes it was dripping but not any longer
Really informative for me thanks!
I moved into a house and have what I think is a similar unpumped device in my loft. It only supplies 2 showers and the hot water.
Fitted a few of these and they are a good idea. Biggest issue with this install is that he has fitted after the pressure reducer, if fitted before then you put more water in the vessel under a higher pressure making it last longer. Also with a accumulator when it is depleted you go back to mains, with a break tank you loose water untill refilled These use to be TWS before Stuart turner bought them out.
Hi Jamie, Thanks for your comment.
The AccuBoost accumulator needs to be installed after the PRV to protect the vessel from fluctuations in mains pressure which could damage the bladder.
Only unpumped accumulators would revert to the mains once depleted. When a pumped unit is depleted, the pump will continue to run to deliver a minimum of 12L/min.
@@SalamanderPumps good clarification. My fitter got hung up on achieving 3 bar on the prv until I pointed out it was there to protect the pump and vessel and we want it relatively low.
I fitted one of these at our old house and it worked perfectly. :)
For how long?
Watching from Louisiana. Amazing work!
Thank you very much!, good to hear from viewers in the USA.
That 450 litre tank will weigh nearly half a tonne when full so take care where it's sited - a wooden floor may not like the extra load !
Hi Roger. Thanks for your comment. The AccuBoost 450L will weigh 281kg when filled. Depending where the unit is stored, some reinforcement work may need to be done.
Turns out that there 450L does not relate to water stored rather vessel/cylinder size.
As half the volume is taken up with the bladder.
Its not 450litre water stored just volume.
@@jgregory935 The vessel size refers to the total volume e.g. 450L, but this is split almost 50:50 air to water. The air is needed to hold the water under pressure. Thanks
@@SalamanderPumps shrinkflasion at its best.
Well done Roger as you explained very well which it was helpful and useful knowledge!!!!!
Most homes have trunk and branch plumbing systems with undersized pipework, manifold plumbing is the way to go.
Nice video as always Roger.
Always a pleasure to watch you work!
Thanks Hugh
Excellent video with great explanation
Thank you!
Thanks for your comment!
that moment when your giant water tank turns into a little tiny one.
well done roger
If the cylinder is not changing its water very much doesn't that constitute a dead leg? A potential legionella breeding ground if the temperature is nkt kept below 20`C.
It is a good point. I don't know the answer but I will empty it every few weeks now. You just have to turn the mains off and let it deplete.
How do your easily measure pressure if you don't have an outside tap that readily fits the gauge? I would imagine it's difficult.
I accidentally bumped into your video and saw that your kitchen design is like mine.
Bought this house a decade ago. Plumbed by a plumber with no common sense. Good street mains pressure on a 3/4 inch supply. Most houses here reduce the 3/4 to a 1/2 for interior supply by putting in a 3/4 x 1/2 x1/2 tee at the entrance, to feed an outside hose bib at what is also a convenient location. That allows garden watering without reducing inside pressure, because the 3/4 carries about twice volume as a 1/2. This guy reduced to 1/2 at entrance, then ran about 20 ft of 1/2 to a 1/2 tee to feed an outside bib in a very inconvenient location. Also reduces inside flow when watering! Used much more pipe than needed just to make things worse. 50 year old job, so the plumber is too old to ask "what were you thinking?"
Really useful video - thanks
Glad you liked it
Being an Electrician, the analogy between Flow rate and Pressure is just like Current & voltage...funny that lol...
Your a jack of all trades Roger. Lol. So how long where you a plasterer musnt been long if your forty years a plumber. Love your videos great help.
When did I say I was a plasterer? I have been plumbing for 40 years but in that time I have done a great many other things and take a few sabaticals because plumbing would drive me nuts. If I gave the impression that I have plumbed 5 days a week for 40 years I am sorry. If the sun is shining and I am in the mood I will even do a bit of exterior painting.
I have also done a good many loft conversions with my pals.
great! just sent the apprentice a few screen shots!
Thanks for your comment!
Very interesting info Rodger abs well explained 🙂👍
Thanks 👍
The first thing people should do is contact their regional water company , here in the north west United utilities will always prove to the property’s boundary if the issue is on public they will renew Pipework or connection for free
That is standard across the country and the minimum pressure is 0.7 bar at the stopcock and you should be able to fill a 2 litre bottle in less than 13 seconds. which equates to around 9 litres per minute. That is not a lot for a shower.
My house water pressure is low as when using same time bathroom and kitchen sink . Please advise how to fix them problems.
Excellent vid, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your comment!
Roger, I can tell by your fridge there that you have your grandkids round a lot ! Or your wife uses those magnetic letters to leave you little love poems. Most probably "Take the bins out", "Shopping at 5pm", "Hang the washing out". Or is that a reflection on why my wife has magnetic letters on our fridge 🤔😆🤗
Hi Lee
Yes it is the grandchildren, my wife has given up leaving me messages especially of love and she takes the bins out and mows the lawn. Also for me the secret of a happy marriage is to never go shopping.
@@SkillBuilder 😂Brilliant !
I am not kidding, the number of times other women say to my wife while we are shopping "Why don't you make him stay at home?". I'm always bloody moaning 😩
The mains and the stopcock are under my kitchen sink. Could I run the mains pipe up into my attic (from ground floor, 1st floor to loft) and still benefit from the bladder version or even the pumped ? I will check out their site. What a great solution. I love the bladder cylinder, GENIUS !
Yes it doesn't matter where you put it on the system but you lose a little head pressure if it is high up. You can put them in a shed outside if you have room.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you. Outside is doable. I'd rather not take up space in the loft I have plans for a Man Cave !
Hi Lee, pumped models should ideally be connected directly after the stop cock. Unpumped models can be located anywhere in the property however if in a shed make sure its protected from frost etc.
Should of bought a powertank
I have a new problem after fitting a new kitchen sink mixer tap. The hot flow is extremely slow. I followed the fitting instructions to the T & the exchange was successful with the addition of a couple of stop taps & filters positioned correctly but as for the hot flow, well its just shocking. In fact when both hot & cold are on together its probably worse. Like Roger said in the video, is it just how new mixer taps are?
However when you want to check the air pressure vessel you do need to empty out ,
Hi Peter, to check the pre-charged pressure in the vessel, isolate the electrics and mains supply, empty the vessel and use a pressure gauge attached to the Schrader valve on top of the vessel. To check the current PSI inside the vessel, there would be no requirement to drain it down. Thanks.
🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤ Uncle You’re so amazing skill level 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤ 😊😊😊 very nice 😊to sharing your experience to the kids on these days on earth 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
where do you buy that. product to measure the flow?
At 4.17 you say unfortunately they didn't renew the tapping on the mains, what and where is that?
in the road on the water main
I can see why they avoided trying to get that changed by the Utilities 🤣
Have you completed the orangery project now Roger?
Almost. It needs a new floor and a bit of EWI
Is there more information on how these fit onto a combo boiler system? I’m a bricklayer not a plumber so might be a stupid question.
Hi Elliott, there's definitely an application for using the AccuBoost to supply a combi boiler or an unvented system. Please take some time to look at page 4 of our installation information on the following link. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/uploads/AccuBoost%20Installation%20Guide%20(Jul%2022).pdf
Get a Powertank!!!
Next Video how to get a Bird to join you in your super doper new Power Shower? LOL
Can you add a boost tank after the water softener of a well pump? In otherwords, store clean water not directly from the well, did the pressure of the well tank affect it? My problem is when there is a power outage I loose power to the well pump and no water at the house. Do you recommend adding a check valve where the boost tank is connected?
There is a check valve required on the incoming main from the well. A large Boost tank will give you approxiamately half its capacity in water. I drain my Boost by turning off the incoming main and letting the tank deplete under its own compression power. Half the tank is water the other half is air and the air will push all the water out of the tank as it is used.
Hi - sorry but I can’t see how 4 bar pressure delivers only 10l per minute, unless the pipework is partially blocked. Has a flow test at the property meter been done? I get 15l per min with just 1.8 bar.
static pressure means nothing. You can get 8 bar on a 6mm pipe but it won't give you a decent flow rate. The taps are often restricted to something like that.
Surely more pressure will use more water , in times of water shortages is this a good idea ?
Have a shower of reduced duration
@@SkillBuilder Really, is that your reply 🤔
low pressure? increase the pressure. why i never thought of this...
Water storage tank and the pump.
If u have space off course
Of course but it can go in a small outhouse.
Very good 👍
Thanks for you comment!
just come back from a late-ish shift, its 2am and the flow is through the floor. who's using my water?
Remove plastic aerator on tap outlet
Can it be used for plastic pipes?
yes
I’ve had nothing but trouble with everything salamander over the past few years , customer services are scripted and are of no common sense . Stuart turner for me every time from now on . I fitted one of these a couple of years back , incredible vessel . At least 15 minutes worth of pressure before it drops off . A bit of a pig to get into the loft though 😃
Hi Mark, I'm sorry to hear that you feel this way. Our Customer Experience Manager would like to learn more about your experience with us, please can you send us a DM on one of our social media channels with your serial number and contact number? Thanks.
That face is what nightmares are made of. YIKES!
Just go to the pump and turn up the pressure switch
What pump?
@@SkillBuilder the one that pumps the water out of the damn ground and to the house genius. Everyone has one
shower pump does not increase the flow.
You could have arranged those letters (fridge magnets) to spell out some roood wurdz.
Kinky hoses, BAD! Flexi tap tails for mixer taps, pre-packaged and kinked, doubled or tripled over will fail.
Have you had kinky hoses? Loafer has. See the damp patch!
They are for the grandchildren
@@SkillBuilder ;-)
Simple remedy, use a pressurised Joule system.
Love the whole idea,but salamander are the worst pump on the market.
check borja salming hockey player
U need to move onto pressfit, get rid of that flux
I sold my press fit kit. I got rid of the flux in a bucket
@@SkillBuilder different strokes for different folks.
to expensive at present plus its what most of the old plumbers learned on compression or push fit all though if fitting boilers or commercial where money permits i can sea your point
All those presfit are overrated the fittings are restricted because of design are not full bore when sizing mains and hot and cold services for buildings they are calculated by load requirements in fixture units for each fixture hot and cold then you calculate main and branch off accordingly your load percentage will vary for different types of occupancies 2 family 3 family school hospital leisure complex etc,all got to do with flow rates at each fixture when maximum loads are required. This is why we do the maths and calculations
@@SkillBuilder you we right they are to restricted you can't beat copper
Or, instead, insist that the new spur includes a new connection to the main? Unbelievable how much money utility companies take and disgraceful how little they reinvest to keep the infrastructure modern.
This is basically an expensive and complicated answer to government policy failure.
Our you could spend a whole lot less and upgrade the tap to the main... he literally said that was the issue...
Ian
It is not the tap it is the tapping. The tapping is under the road and would cost several thousand pounds to dig up and replace it
@@SkillBuilder ah forgive me I'm in America and at least from my experience, nothing from the actual big main to the point where your meter is has ever been less then ¾inch. I wrongly assumed you meant where your main met the meter. Can you demand the city upgrade from the barbaric practice of half inch pipe from the city main? That feels cruel and unusual as far as punishment goes!
Salamander hell no id rather treat my hemorrhoids with a shotgun I've been burned by this company too many times pump wise anybody
Hi, It's disappointing to hear you feel this way. We want to know what happened to cause this, could you send more info over DM on one of our social media channels? Thanks
Is the pressure constant or will it die off after a certain amount of time depending on the size of the tank?
The flow rate drops as the tank loses water but you still have water coming in from the mains. Ther bigger the household the more capacity you need.
Thanks for your comment - the flow and pressure remains constant whilst the vessel is emptying. When the vessel is empty you will see a drop in both flow and pressure, for an unpumped unit this will return to the natural mains flow/pressure or a minimum of 12 L/min on a pumped unit. Our team will ensure that the size of the vessel is specified to give the correct capacity for the demand of the household. Thanks.
Mate the whole thing will die....dont waste your money..
Hello Roger.
Nice demonstration... I have a couple of questions/points -
If you are going to the trouble and the cost of fitting an accumulator and it is a days work to instal, do you not think its worth fitting the pump regardless of thepressure ?
After all it can probably be fitted in the same day so little extra labour and you have the insurance against the waetr supplier turning the pressure down in the future. This has happened to us on two occaisions.
Do you have a preference between the principal of the accumulator V mains boost tank/pump eg Grundfoss Homeboost 4.5 bar ?
We have fitted a few of those with great sucess.
I wondered what your thought were...
Thank you and enjoy the sun !
Hi Neil
I fitted the pumped version as a comparison and it didn't add anything to the performance. If the water company instigates a reduced pressure zone to save their aeging mains then a pump is a very quick and easy option to add. I like the unpumped version because it is silent
@@SkillBuilder And free to run!
💙👊😎
Thanks for your comment!
@@SalamanderPumps it's always a pleasure were Roger is concerned as he is a quelity plumber...💙👊😎
Looks like the plastering was done by a hairdresser.
Firstly..not needed in 80% of UK homes, and secondly another advert for Skill Builder gains, most people won't be able to afford this system it could run into 1000's of pounds.
This is a solution for some people clearly not you.
Who cares what his advertising the information is still free for you but not for him, and also a good way to get rid of water tanks in the loft
Hey pal how's the pork pies in Britain. Love from South Africa.
I love a pork pie. We have a place up the road that makes them and keeps the pigs. I also like black pudding or boudin noir as the French call it.
@@SkillBuilder hi. Wish more hotels could use this tank with a bladder. I was in UK in a hotel it takes forever to fill up a bath . I know Farmers in South Africa use massive tanks with a bladder for irrigation. Thanks.
Shame no info on the pump noise
😂😂… this is why plumbers charge an arm and a leg when you call them…. Ask them to increase water pressure and they build you a new extension to your house
High end new builds with multiple bath facilities will of course come with all this factored in and kitted out, but of course existing older housing stock can experience issues over time as they put in attic extensions, en suites, and additional wet rooms, so this information is great for people to know.
Hi Roger love your plumbing videos
I ran a heating contractors for 30 years in south London and always dealing with flow and pressure problems particularly in Balham and Brixton notorious for low pressures sometimes only 1 bar
These accumulators solved many problems for me. One add on tip for you, where even one of these devices would improve but not completely, solve a problem, is to fit balancing valves on the supplies to the individual outlets (just a gate valve with the handle removed)
Then similarly to balancing radiators, you can restrict restrict the greedy to favour the needy
I used to find it was always the showers, usually at the higher parts of the house, that would suffer to some extent sometimes even after a booster. The combination of booster and balancing was needed on some of the toughest nuts I had to crack with very demanding clients in these expensive areas…..
Thanks Mark that is a good tip
I heard salamander pumps are not reliable. Stuart Turner pumps are the rolls royce of pumps there not cheap but built to last.
40 years as a plumber? And you still ripping people off with your nonsense?
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing this video! Simple, Clear & Practical with a lot of well defined valuable experience! You sound like my late father who was a carpenter by trade with plumbing experience! I lost him a few years ago at the age of 94 years! Thank you again and greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
I have sufficient flow and pressure in the house, but since refitting the kitchen and installing a SureStop to make turning the mains off (we had a burst and my wife couldn't turn the stop tap off) the drop in flow is noticeable when 2 or more taps are turned on. This doesn't cause a problem even with the showers so it's not worth changing anything at the moment. What is interesting is that despite the SureStop being 22mm fitting the bore inside is the same as the 15mm version. Would you consider making a video on the pros and cons of these devices? There is no doubt they are useful in an emergency and where the stop tap is difficult to reach (aren't they all) but given that any restriction on the size of the bore will affect flow rate I think SureStop need to change their product.
I also have a SureStop and have had some flow issues - would too like to see a video on this
Replace the word Surestop with Nightmare! Get rid of it ASAP. I remove them every day of the week. Not only can they reduce your pressure, they are a major source of leaks themselves as they are water pressure operated as you know. As well as that , it will probably not work at all after a few years so don't rely on it. Tip, you may need to turn 2 taps on to get it to kick in. Sorry for the bad news but make sure you have an alternative way to turn water off . 👍
@@kevinmullin4504 Thanks Kevin. I am just a home owner and so obviously only see one rather than many. I have only had it for just over a year and I do test it every now and then. I did fit a new stop cock with the SureStop to make sure that I had a more permanent way of isolating the water supply because I read that they should not be relied upon for extended periods.
Interestingly I have spoken to a couple of plumbers (mainly on the heating side) who they they have never been asked to fit one
It’s usually good practice to take a flow rate from a non restricted tap such as an outside tap ….most kitchen taps / basin taps tend to have reduced flow rates these days! Good video roger
Here’s a useful tip: Rotate the stopcock on and off twice a year to keep it free. So many are boxed in and totally inaccessible which is why they seize up.
Don't open the stopcock and leave it at the end of the thread, back off a half turn.
40 years in the business and you still turn your pliers backwards
LOL
I knew somebody would pick up on it. Sometimes it is just easier to get them in that way.
Hi Roger
Thanks for explaining how these boosters work and the pump. The way you explained in every detail in depth and not only that and you went further to explain how to install it.
This is the best of the best videos I have seen then other people's videos.
Is that the consumer unit behind your head?
My problem: in the upper floor of house, water comes well of the shower but barely a drop comes out of sink next to it in the same bathroom. Same for a second restroom in the same floor (Flow to toilet siphon is good but barely a drop coming off at the sink to wash hand!). Where could my problem be and I though may be air lock, thus several times cut the water from house main shut off valve in yard and re started with no avid.
Came across a job this week where a plumber/ kitchen fitted hadn't sealed the sink properly. A year later the rear panel under the sink is completely wet and the water has drawn up half way up the panel.
He has also fitted a 13amp double socket in this panel within inches of the waste pipes and connectors to the washing machine.
Am I right in thinking putting a live socket this close to the plumbing wasntnnot just a bad idea but dangerous?
The so called professional fitter is now ignoring the clients he took 27k from!
Being an elderly couple with one in ill health. I do feel sorry for them as this cowboy was happy to take their money then just walked away. Still claiming to be the 'best in England '
Bro how about hot water faucet become cold after few minutes?it's called mixing issue? How can solved this issue? Can you help me? Appreciate it thank you
👍good deal 👌 thanks
Is the stored mains water suitable for drinking?I didn't think stored water is considered potable...
No
Makes a video named how to fix water pressure then only fucking shows how to add a part to increase the maximum flow
Top marks - brilliant explanation throughout
I tried to fix this problem a while back. Had the utilities company round several times, replaced the small bore pipework from the street stop cock to my house etc. The guy from the utilities (after I said I was going to have to fit a pump) said "shouldn't have to fit a pump, it's regulated up the street as the flow and pressure are too high" the never adjusted it for me but its just annoying that the are throttling in for a reason I haven't figured out yet. I still havent installed a pump and just struggled on...
Hi Nathan, the utility provider are required to provide you with around 9l/min to the boundary, however depending on the length of pipe run and the size of the property a pump could be the solution to poor flow you are experiencing. To find out which pump would best suit your system, please take a look at our product selector. www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/product-selector
Get a powertank!!!
I have found the problem! Its the full port shutoff valve near the well
Where can I buy such a cup-type flow measurement device?
The issue (as stated) is that the water main connection was not replaced properly. We upgraded from 1/2” lead to 25mm MDPE and went from about 15l/m to over 50 L/m on our 3.5bar supply (identical pressure before and after as expected). I could run a shower at 15, a garden hose at over 20 with the kitchen tap also running more than a 20l weir cup could handle). Something is definitely wrong that they need additional kit in this house.
I would also love to know what the flow rate is straight out of their MDPE main before the restrictive stop cock, NRV, filter and PRV. I’d be willing to bet it was a lot higher than after.
It would be cheaper to retap the street main tap for 3/4” or, if permitted, 1”.
🇿🇦. South Africans can't teach you Brits how to BBQ ?
I had the same issue - a 15mm main but just over 3 bar pressure. Swapped the cold tank in the loft for 2 x 250L Stuart Turner horizontal vessels. It made a huge difference. Two points to note though:
1. you need to check the pressure at the tank and adjust the air pressure in the bladder accordingly (from memory i think it was about one bar lower than the water pressure.
2. The stored water warms up over time so drinking water isn't as cold. I would recommend fitting a supply to a tap with a non return valve before the accumulators if possible, assuming you've got the pressure and reasonable flow for it.
Hi. Thanks for your comment. You only need to adjust the pressure on unpumped models, but the amount you need to set it by varies depending on the manufacturer so always check the literature. Thanks
Rubber balloon. Used on big irrigation system.
No good they put this!
Your mentioning of the important terms (flow rate and static pressure) as well as their description is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. You are the first plumber who shows a sound understanding of his trade (profession really) I have ever come across.
Just wondering if you could help , our down stairs bathroom toilet has water to the sinks but the toilet has no water it just stopped, I’ve checked the on/off valve and there’s no water pressure there, this pipe goes in the floor, and after that I’ve no idea please if you could help it would be greatly appreciated
How have you tested the on/off valve? It is unlikely that the pipe has suddenly blocked. Often we find a bit of debris has washed into the filter, some need cleaning out twice a year, especially if there are old iron pipes in the mix.