How we Mill Posts and Beams and BROKEN BLADES
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2020
- One of the best ways we've found to mill straight posts and beams. This applies to any size post and beam you need to mill. Don't miss out on the blade disaster in the video as well.
I'm a rookie sawyer only about 30 hours on my mill, and your video was super informative. Great detail and tips. Thank you
Thank you very much, and congratulation on being a mill owner. We all started somewhere, and searched for helpful info.Thats why we like sharing things we've learned, and helping fellow Sawyers. We have a video coming out Saturday evening, about quarter sawing a log. It might be something you'd like.
Any questions, just ask. We are glad to help out.
@@IronOakSawmill I will be for sure watching it. Keep up the great content.
Nice job there Chuck and Debbra. . lots of good info . RIP Chuck.
Just started sawing posts from small Australian hardwood logs and encountered exactly this problem. What a great solution. Thankyou!
I'm so glad that it helped you out Jon. One of our goals is to help folks through issues like this.
Finally! I finally found time to comment on this video. It has to be the BEST instructional type video,yet! In my opinion, it could be included in a course of study for new sawmill owners. Nice work. Stay safe.👍😁
I know how frustrated when we were out on a mill job, and everything was warping like crazy. We are hoping this helps others avoid the headaches. Its nice to know it may be helping others.
Thanks for a very informative video. I’m in the UK and want to get into saw milling. I have been watching a few different people on you tube for some time and this video has to be by far the most informative. Thanks again. Matt
Hello Matt, and welcome to the mill. I'm glad we were able to help out. If there is anything you want to see here, let us know. We will try to get a video up for you.
Hello my friend.
Good idea. Nice milling of Posts, Beams and Broken Blades. Good job. congratulations. Thanks for sharing. big greetings. See you. stay healthy and happy.
Hello Friend. We have not heard from you in a while. Milling luke this takes more time, but we know it is done right.
Thank you for watching. Stay safe and healthy my friend.
@@IronOakSawmill Hello my friend.
I've been in another city for a month. I came and made a vise for the workshop. See you all the time. big greetings.
!
Thank you for showing us how things can go wrong, seems like nobody ever shows you the possibilities and problems of the wood mixer’s sawmills
Hello Matteo, and welcome. It's not really a problem with the Wood Mizer. Just an issue with the reactive logs. As for the blades, there are bound to be issues when you make as many as they do. The good thing is, they stand behind their product, and I can get them replaced.
Thanks for the great videos. We got an LT35 last month, so we're still learning. (my brother and I)
@@patrickcreath217 WELCOME !!!
You're lovin' it I'm sure. Hope this video helped you out with your mill.
Hi Matteo. That is no issue showing you what can go wrong on the mill. He like to explain what the logs are doing. Thanks again for tuning into the channel. Take Care.
Very Very helpful for, me! Thanks so much for these great video's!
Glad to help out Derek. You are very welcome.
I am grateful I found your channel! I learn something every time I watch it. Feels like I should have a notebook by my side, lol! 👍
Hello John and welcome to the mill.
We really enjoy sharing what we've learned here. If it saves someone some time and frustration, or simply makes their job easier, we have accomplished one of our goals.
Thank you for the compliments. We hope to see you in the comments more often.
I totally enjoy watching your videos because I always learn something new about cutting lumber. Thanks Chuck and Deb for doing the videos. Think I need one of those tee shirts. Take care my friends.
Hope you were able to find the link to the shirts.
We have a great time sharing what we have learned.
In the metal cutting industry when we see saw blades break at the weld it tells us the blade was not annealed properly after welding. While frustrating it’s common. Great video, wasn’t aware wood stresses like that just like metal does thanks for that insight.
Hello Jeffrey, and welcome. I'm learning more and more about blade welds, and their issues. One thing I do like is that Wood Mizer is standing behind their product, and has 2 free replacement blades on the way.
Wood moves like crazy sometimes. We are happy to share how we deal with it, and help others out, if we can.
@@IronOakSawmill Have you used their 747 blade?
Great video Chuck & Deb, as usual it's not as easy as one might think to put out a quality product. Thanks for sharing the great quality control information you do. Have a great day!
Hello Marcel, and thank you. We are glad to share what we've learned, and help save others from frustration.
Watching your videos is like taking a master class. Keep up the good work brother....
Thank you John. We try to spread the knowledge where we can.
Take care Brother
Hello once again Chuck and Deb. I enjoyed the voice over content describing the care taken to ensure you provide straight posts. Fascinating to see the amount of stress that results from milling the logs. Another quality product from the Iron & Oak sawmill. I enjoy your videos very much and appreciate the time you devote to making and editing them. Each video you put out there is awaited with great anticipation and is received with great pleasure. You haven’t disappointed yet! Thanks again. Take care and stay safe! Stan
Stan, as always, your compliments are overwhelming. We want to share what we know, and hope that it is well received. You help to verify that with every video.
A man (and lady) are only as good as their word, and their work. We want to do the best for our wood customers, as we possibly can. That stress in the logs can test you some days. Planning ahead for it, can make it go so much better.
Thank you again Stan. Take care, and we hope to see you in the comments again soon.
Nothings is easy... except for Chuck and Debbie... nice job... and good explanations ... have a nice weekend and anytime you want to see the northern Canada, you are more than welcome
Hey guys. It did take extra time, but we knew we were making a good product.
Hope the borders open soon, so we can all do some traveling. Never been that far north, but would love to see the country up that way.
Thank you Joe. And thanks for the invite. Also thanks for the compliment. Thanks for watching the channel and take care.
Good teacher Chuck! Thanks for the lesson!
Glad to share some of our methods. Maybe save so.eone some frustration
Really enjoy your videos. Lots of good content. Hopefully I can apply this info when I can finally afford my own mill.
Hello Scott, and welcome to the mill. We enjoy sharing our knowledge, and our experiences. We always hope that it helps folks.
At least you'll be ready when you do get that mill. If there is anything you'd like to see here, let us know.
Thanks for the great demo. I milled some white oak last summer hoping to get some 4x4s only to find that all of them bowed. This information is very valuable.
We went nuts trying to mill straight posts for a customer. We were not ready for the stress in the log. After some trial and error, we came up with this method. So far it's working. Give it a try for your next milling of posts. Thanks for the info on the hashtags. We need help getting the channel to grow a bit faster.
Ha, just now got the time to watch. Very informative video. Nice work guys, I really enjoyed! 👍👍
Tha k you Barry. Hoping this saves some other folks, some frustration, when trying to mill posts and beams.
Very well presented, informative and edited video, thanks....
Thank you very much for the compliments. We like to share what we have learned, and hopefully save someone else some problems when milling.
We are also working on our editing, and content, to bring a good show to the people who support us.
I always listed for some poplar logs as I would drive up the mountains from wife’s farm to N Carolina and I would look down at poplars about 150’ tall and as straight as pencils . Now I’ll just saw oak, elm and cedar
That tree had to have been under stress to have been so bowed. I have found that most "leaners" were later a problem when milling.
It was a straight butt log, with even growth rings. Its more sawing stress than growth stress.
I agree though, leaners will give you problems also.
Very informative always wondered why my 4x4s weren’t coming off mill straight great explanation.
We wanted to share what we learned. We were so frustrated when we would mill, and have issues with crooked lumber. Glad we were able to help you out.
Another great video have watched every one now lol I’m all caught up keep em coming
Thank you John. We are actually getting some video this weekend. A LOT of red oak. Special cut. Plus some apple wood, and maybe some English walnut
New to milling, ran into the pressure cuts. Very helpful tips.
Hello Earl. I'm glad we were able to help. I remember our frustration when that happened, and we wanted to help people through that.
If your new to this mans channel you should watch his videos. Ive seen a ton of would-be sawers and this gentleman is one of the best Ive seen. Sawing is a lot harder than just throwing a log on a sawmill and going at it. Each species brings its own sort of challenges and Ive yet to see him screw up.
I will have to say, that is the biggest compliment I've gotten since starting the channel. Thank you very much. Like my Pop always said, "If you're gonna do something, do it right, and with your best effort. Thats what we are trying to do here. I'm glad to know that folks are enjoying the channel, and keep coming back. Now to get them all to hit the subscribe button. LOL That would be something.
Thank you again, and please, keep enjoying the videos. Any suggestions, let us know.
Beautiful
This was very informative for us newbies. I will be cutting lots of Tulip Poplar and they are known for this. 👍😎👌
Thank you very much. It is time intensive, but yields a great end result. We'll worth the effort.
Thanks a lot ! That is going to be a big help when I mill poplar
You are quite welcome. We are glad we were able to help you out. Let us know how it goes.
That was a great trick, thank you!
Thank you Tom. It takes a few more cuts, but if the lumber is square, and true, its worth it. I hope it helps you out.
Thanks for the tips. As it happens, I am cutting poplar beams this weekend. I will look for the warp. I had planned to "box the heart" while making 6 X 6 beams and use the rest of the 16" logs for boards.
When boxing the heart, be prepared for some good checking to appear when drying. Not sure if that matters, or where you're using them.
@@IronOakSawmill Funny thing, after watching your video, I was careful to watch the cutoffs and cant as I was milling the poplar. I kept seeing the cant look like it bowed up. Turned out the center bunk on my mill is 1/8 inch low. Anyway, the beams look great. Thanks for the tips.
great video. Do you ever have any problems with mold? I mill a lot of Doug Fir and mold loves to go after the sapwood, pretty annoying. Im hoping a solar kiln can mitigate that.
That slows down the process when ya break a blade I like how you explain everything
Hello David and welcome. That blade mess us up a bit, but we got back on track. Also, Wood Mizer is sending us 2 new blades, free of charge. Can't beat there customer service, and how they stand behind their product.
We wanted to make this beam / post video, to help others when they mill these. I hope this one has helped you out.
Good day
Any tips on how to put the block for the first cut if the 2 side diameters differs alot. I want one big beam. Bit if I try it it comes out bended.
Must I start to put the centre's of the 2 sides the same hight. So that I cut the beam straight through the centre?
I want to cut 8.5 meters and 250mm x 250mm beams.
I can say 👌👍great video from Shady Oaks Mill Service
Thank you very much AP. I hope things are going well on your mill
Hi, ive been cutting for years, hit nails,bullets ECT but havent broken a blade! I cut a lot of hemlock, maple,alder and cedar .i havnt seen many logs move lik on your video! Wow!! Thats some spring!
Hello Marcus, and welcome. I've never broken a blade when hitting metal. Mine ha e been from defective blades, or diabetes that were passed their service life, and simply cracked and broke.
I used poplar in this demonstration because I knew it would react like it did, and would show the difficulties of when wood reacts.
Red skies at night, a sailor's delight , Red skies in the morning a sailor's warning
Dad was a navy man. I have heard that saying quite a bit growing up
@@IronOakSawmill yup , but works on the west coast I think lol
@@grazynazambeanie5963 works in the East as well.
Reaction wood. It happens.It can bind up your blade ..The dominant side of the log is the upper part. That was where the tree needed strength.
Hate reaction wood, but we are able to work with it, and make some Quality post and beams.
New to your channel. Well done.
You asked for requests at the end of this video. I recently purchased a used LT35HD and am still early in the learning curve on it's use.
I would greatly enjoy a video on aligning the LT35. I am ending up with wood with dimensions that are not accurate and my Simple Set measurements are also off.
I suspect I need to start with a basic realignment of my saw and have the step by step guide on how to do so from Wood Mizer but would greatly enjoy a video on an owners experience aligning the saw.
Hello Captain, and welcome to the mill. Before you make any adjustments, make sure that you aren't dealing with stress in the log. They can bow, bend and twist on you, and make it seem like the saw is cutting poorly. Since you bought the mill used, ask the previous owner if they made any adjustments. Hope they didn't move a bunch of stuff. One thing I suggest to every used wood mizer buyer, is to have their field service guys stop by and go over the mill to make sure its factory set.
Do you have a factory manual for your mill?
After such care with the cuts will you see any more bowing as you sticker & dry? Thank you for your time with the vdeos!
Hello Chris, and welcome. It's our experience that these will stay straight. We always stack, sticker, and strap our stacks. The straps keep pressure on the lumber to help keep it straight. We've also just stacked and stickered, and they stayed straight.
I once had a white oak stringer that raised 7 inches at the end of the cut, another time one was tight at both ends and raised about 4 inches at the middle.
Hello David, and welcome. There are a lot of variables that can cause stress in a log. I'm guessing you found one that had A LOT of those issues.
Great video. Many of the logs I saw bow similar to what you showed. You showed a great technique, cutting oversized then flattening the beam after.
I find that freshly felled logs typically have less stress than logs that have been sitting for a while. I try to cut as soon as possible after the log is felled.
Also, if you get a lubemizer on your saw you will use less water and your blade and belts will stay cleaner, potentially giving you a better blade life, although your blade seams to be staying fairly clean.
Thank again for the great video.
I always heard it was better to let a log sit for some time, to allow stress to be released.
Not sure if I can get a lubemizer for the LT35. Guess I have to get a new mill then. LOL
Thank you Jason
@@IronOakSawmill I have an LT35 and I was able to get a lubemizer system that could be added with slight modification. I had to change out the movable guide bearing mount, bolt the small control panel to the side of my main control panel, add the pump module and route the wiring. Took about two and a half hours to Install.
It was expensive, but I didn't have to design it myself, and it works great. Sprays both sides of the band, its adjustable how much it sprays, uses half as much water, and it only runs when the saw control is set to forward.
@@jasonneugebauer5310 maybe on our next mill. Lets see how things work out.
thanks for informative . I just oedered a small sawmill to mill several standing Ash trees I have on my property . I was also planning on cutting some of the walnut leaning over the creek, I was planning on cutting the Walnut into about 4 foot lengths prior to milling. Will I stii have stress problems with that short of logs.
The stress should be minimal in such a short length. But it also depends on how it grew.
Hi just found your channel today. Great video! Just subscribed! I'm new to sawmilling, cutting, harvesting wood and drying. So please excuse my ignorance and dumb questions. What dimensions are you sawing to in the final cuts? 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"? Do these posts shrink any in the final process? If yes, by how much? I intend to dry my milled lumber in a solar Kiln, will this cause the post to shrink more than if I just stacked, stickered and air dried? Once again thank you for a great video!!
There are no dumb questions, so please ask.
The final for these posts was 3 1/2" x 3 1/2". Shrinkage depends on the species for the most part.
Here is an article that I found very helpful.
As for kiln, compared to air drying, they will shrink, no matter which method.
www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/dimensional-shrinkage/#:~:text=Radial%20shrinkage%20in%20solid%20wood,%25%20to%205%25%20radial%20shrinkage.&text=(Accordingly%2C%20volumetric%20shrinkage%20is%20typically,%25%20for%20most%20wood%20species.)
@@IronOakSawmill Thank you!!!
THE 180 flip doesn't accumulate all stress and bow on one side
so your over size cut could be less = less loss.
probably splitting hairs instead of wood,
thanks for the reply
If one side bows, the other side does as well. Even when I flip 180, I take a trim cut to flatten that side of the cant, before slicing a board.
Im liking this channel first video i watched im in as a sub I'm liking the detail and instruction I've been kicking around for about a year about buying a sawmill from woodmizer in these uncertain times that were in still makes me question if it's the right time for it thanks for the videos guys loving the channel
Hello Dennis, and thank you for the like, and the sub. It really helps us out here.
We thought about that very thing, and figured that if we can produce something that may become unavailable due to circumstances, that would give us a bartering tool, or atheist help us to be self sustaining.
We are glad you like the channel. If there is something we can show you, here on the channel, let us know.
I learn a lot, 😊
Hello AL. Glad we could help out. Happy to share what knowledge we can.
Very interesting. Thanks for the information. I own 22 acres of hardwood in Georgia but I’m afraid I have gotten to old to run a saw mill.
You've taken good care of those hardwoods. The future sawyer will be grateful for them. In the meantime, they are yours to enjoy.
I am 72 and still running mine. Cut some beautiful figured cherry today.
@@goldenacres3269 I plan to be doing the same when I reach that age. Can't stand sitting around.
what part of Georgia Donald?
Must've got the woodmizer China batch (or just a bad day at the factory)
Not sure why. We were just glad to get through the day. We haven't had a bad issue like this since then.
AS ALWAYS GOOD VIDEO
Thank you Kate. Good to see you back.
Hi Chuck, Its been awhile since I stopped by, and did today because someone was asking me about "reaction wood" and how it was handled traditionally compared with today. Your video demonstrated all the ins and out of how Sawyers today cope with this challenge. I also like the fact you don't edit out broken blades and the other challenges we face in day to day operations...
Have you ever bothered "water curing" your bolts for any length of time before milling them, or know much about this traditional method? Do you ever let the rough cants just relax for a few days, or dampen the pith to see if the reaction wood is just "mill stress" or actual "reaction wood?" I'm also curious if you have gotten to mill much for any timber framers before in your area?
Thanks in advance and for you channel...
Hello Jay, and welcome back. The only methods I could use are to let the logs dry for some time before milling, or even let the can't sit for some time.
With nice, even growth rings, sawing stress is my biggest issue. With lower quality, uneven growth logs, I guess I'm challenged with both sawing and growth stress.
This method has proven to work well over time. I'm always looking for alternatives though. I'm just limited with space, time, equipment big enough to move big cants off the mill, and back on a few days later.
I think its time to invest in a larger machine.
@@IronOakSawmill Hey Chuck...Wow...didn't think we would both be in the office at the same time to see each others responses...awesome!!!
With our technology today in the world (and impatiens/demand from small custom milling) I more than understand that many of the traditional methods are not plausible for most folks or at least they don't think so. I've been lucky that most of the time, when I get a mill up and running for myself or others there is always a "mill pond" close by to store logs properly rather than end sealing them and/or setting up sprinkler systems to keep them green, fresh and resting...
I do see a lot of Sawyers letting their logs "dry out" way to much!!! This is actually a critical issue in creating lower grade lumber and exacerbating bolt/cant tension within a timber that comes out of them. It may be why you are getting such spring up in some of you nicer logs?
I know many now that state, "...sawing stress is my biggest issue..." and at least 90% of the time it has to do with how they are storing their logs and or treating the action steps they take with the bolts, cant and rough lumber. One can choose the expedient (aka impatient ) approach to meet client's demands upon us, or explain why it was done differently historically and that they will have better lumber from their log bolts if more time is taken...
I see little, in my experience, of modern woodworking (or even home/furniture construction) that has little to do with "better way" and more to do with making money for an industry, impatiens, or just not knowing better. From kiln drying to over use of power tool methods, and the list goes on! All without learning and understanding woodworking better from a traditional context first...
For example, "...lower quality, uneven growth logs, I guess I'm challenged with both sawing and growth stress..." is not an issue for traditional woodworkers that use wood "as grown" and typically also "green" by the modern definition of what "green" represents in woodworking today in the often ill informed understanding of wood. I have to say, that "green woodworking" is probably one of the core topics of discussion that I'm asked about today, since for my last 40 years of working wood from house frames to furniture and floors, to barrels and wagon wheels...the wood is all green and not dry at all by modern perspectives of what this represents. It certainly never kiln dried...LOL!!! As such, I use timber that are bowed because that has a strength in it that can't be replicated easily without steam bending, which is never as strong as a "naturally stressed" timber. This also does (and could for more if they learn traditional methods) allow for virtually any tree to yield very usable and valuable timber, slab, and board stock...
It is a challenge too for many, as you stated, that are, "...limited with space, time, equipment big enough to move big cants off the mill, and back on a few days later.
.." There is no doubt about that, and I too have been there. However, when I logistically plane for and take advantage of certain traditional methods, I get better quality lumber since "cutting out" stress geometry from a board or timber waste wood, and it also yields a much weaker timber especially for those like me that design and build traditional timber frames, and furniture. I need all the strength a timber or plank can yield me, so if waiting or working around the deformity is possible, its always the better option..
If you didn't think you needed a "larger machine," I would be worried about you!!! LMAO!!! Your a Sawyer and you love wood...we always want (and can use!!!) bigger machines. For you I think the largest swing blade you could afford would make you very happy and way more productive from what I have seen of your work...
Great connecting and love checking in on you!!!
Super informative video! I guess the $64K question is, after you have trimmed off the middle hump on one side and tipped-up ends on the other side...do these posts STAY straight?
Our experience is that they remain straight. We have seen little to no change after they sit for months. If they were going to bow or warp, they would do in that time period.
at 7:00 don't forget you are also removing the pith, which if left in wreaks havoc on lumber
That is usually one of my goals. I wasn't super concerned with it in these, as they were going to be used for shipping black iron pipe. A shame to use these logs for this, but the customer dropped them off. His call at that point. I've learned about the pith, and how it is a waste of time in most cases, to even use it. Slab folks don't mind it, but lumber folks do.
Hey guys great job as always good video I am enjoying your channel
I have a stack of pine and larch logs for milling customer wants all 2inch which he will resaw into 2x1 and 5x1 for sheep salts that is what I have lined up for tomorrow should be fun
Love from Eire Gerry the Miller
Sounds like a bit of a long day. Cold start, but should be nice milling weather, as long as your moving.
We finished a couple small apple logs at 1" late today. Have 1 walnut crotch for 1" to do, and a bunch of red oak at 3/4. Thats gonna drag out, sawing that thin. All for one guy.
Stay safe, and mill straight. Glad you are here.
@@IronOakSawmill
Weather took a turn for the worst will have to postpone sawing till next week
Any advice on how I can upload some videos for you to watch and maybe give me a few tips
I run a Norwood HD 36 she is manual mill for now most work is mobile but I am getting busier in the yard
I also have a chainsaw mill for wider slabs and sometimes use to break down larger logs and finish off on the sawmill I bring all with me on jobs cause you never know what you will run into
We process a lot of firewood also which is busy now till March
@@gerrydowdall2431 same here. Cut a few cookies, and trimmed one side of a 11 foot live edge so they could put it against the wall. Then it started raining, so I welded a friends dump trailer gate, then off to the shop to work on some projects for a friends wedding. Looking forward to milling a couple of big walnuts.
You would need to post on TH-cam. Video files are too big to send by email.
@@gerrydowdall2431 it sounds like a good set up. Never did chainsaw mills. We had the manual LT15GO before our LT35. It was a lot more work from what I remember. Be glad to offer some advise, if we can.
We were thinking about firewood sales as well. Not sure though. There are plenty of them around here already.
@@IronOakSawmill
I will get setup better on TH-cam and get videos going
I've only had the pleasure of cutting one large walnut good ones are very rare and over here most are gone but still a few on old estate's built early 1800s so nice to cut like chocolate bars
Chainsaw mill is lot slower and more wasteful than bandsaw but great for large pieces and when access is a problem logasol wide slabber is the way to go for accurate cuts
Quality firewood will always sell
I too have plenty of competition more every season but hey that's fine with me 👍
I think that the device you use to turn the logs is awesome. I suspect that this an extra on your mill. Please advise. 🇨🇦👴🏻
The turner comes standard on the LT35HD. No extra charge.
Hi, Does the moisture content affect the stress warping?
Hello Ronald. I've been told that there is less stress when you let the logs sit for some time. Not sure if that does the trick. I've had a couple long time Sawyers tell me about logs soaking in a mill pond.
I think the logs get a lot of added tension in the first few months, then the tension slowly reduces over time as the moisture in the log becomes more even between the ends/outside and the center of the log. If the log is kept wet there will be less tension than if it is dry on the outside and wet in the center.
After working on the mill, what do you do with all the sawdust? Do you gather it up and burn it?
Hello Sharen. We can't find an outlet around here for the sawdust. Most gets pushed into the burn pile.
@@IronOakSawmill I thought perhaps that might be the case.
Red sky at night, is a sailors delight.
Red skys in the morning, sailor take warning
@@IronOakSawmill I was going to say that!
@@sharensleater7921 my Dad was a navy man, before he met my mom.
Can the blades be resharpened and if so are you capable of doing them your self?
The blades can be resharpened 3 or 4 times, before they become an issue. Wood Mizer does sell a sharpener and setter. They do a great job.
The other choice is to send the blades to a certified Wood Mizer resharp center, and have them done. That's how we do it.
Had the same thing happen TWICE while I was cutting the black locust last week. A pain in the butt to get them off!!!!
Locust is a beast to saw. I put it up there with Hickory. Very dense, and hard on equipment.
@@IronOakSawmillthe saw coming back will clean off saw dust
@@darrellwhisnant3444 with movement i. The can't, or even a piece sticking up along the edge of the cut, can and has popped our blade off. We avoid coming back, without lifting the head a bit. If the blade pops, it usually damages the teeth, and the blade has to be replaced.
WEelll . . . they looked like some decent cuts still and it's good that no one got hurt by them breaks too. If people haven't ever done any cutting it's really hard to tell them just how dangerous things like chains or high tension levels on band steal breaking can be.
Hope you all have a safe and happy New Years there, oh yeah, all the little kiddies running around there too :) Love the videos, Keep on having fun
Just a bad run of blades. We seem to be out of that for now. Hope we don't see any more for a long time.
Things are going great so far this year. Keeping all the cat warm and fed outside.
I know it's no fun but have you tried flipping the log 180 after every cut to help the stress
If you are using smaller logs, and boxing the heart, that method works. Or if you are sawing boards, and the log is very reactive. We were actually trying to keep all heart wood out of these beams. This method, it works better to cut them oversized, then cut any stress curve out of each piece, an you work to the finished size.
Could you not clamp them to the base plate or will they still be stressed great watching though Kev 70 year old from England
Hello Kevin, and welcome. We do clamp them with our clamp on the mill. It holds them flat, until we release the clamp. Then the cant s[rings up in the center. What you do then is close the clamp, take a skim cut, them turn the cant over, and take another skim cut. Once that's done, both sides are flat again, and you can cut uniform boards.
Wood is wood, if it bend store it!! Time, moistere and time will restore it. But yes, you dont have time and no storage place, what can you do LOL. My live as A wood manager.....
Maybe the blades are breaking because of the annealing process. When they are welded together, the weld is hard and brittle. Annealing is used to soften or make the blades flexible. Just a thought.
I'm not sure what process they use. Normally, I dont have issues. Wood Mizer came through as always, and replaced the blades, free of charge.
Do they move any more until dry?
Hello George, and welcome. From our experience, they stay straight.
when you are cutting the cant how do stop the 4x4 from curving so much?
Hello willos, and thank you for your question.
Whenever we cut posts or beams, we cut them oversized by 1/2" to 1" . Set all the oversized cut pieces to the side. When you are done cutting the cant, we bring each piece up, and cut it to final size. It will probably be crooked, so cut a small amount off each side to straighten it.
@@IronOakSawmill Thanks you are the first in here to explain it so well. Great work.
@@tim1405 very glad to help out
@@tim1405 Sorry for the short response. My phone was crashing. Have a new one set up, and we are good to go.
We always enjoy sharing ourselves knowledge. Why not help out where you can.
Thank you, and we hope to see you in the comments often
Hey Chuck, if you add hash tags in the description, the first 3 will be used as search links above the video title. That may help drive some traffic to you guys as well. However, if you set the location in the video meta data form TH-cam will use that instead and not use the tags. We just put the tags under the description text.
Can I go back, and add them to old videos?
Iron & Oak Sawmill sure can
Você tem uma máquina muito boa ,mim tira uma dúvida ,qual média de preço de uma máquina dessa
Muito obrigado.
Você pode construir e definir o preço de uma máquina neste site.
www.woodmizer.com.br/
Eles têm as melhores máquinas.
@@IronOakSawmill obrigado amigo por sua dica ,e sua atenção
@@natanborges5983 Fico feliz em ajudar, amigo.
I had a whole box to break at the weld one time
Hello Travis. We heard about things like that. Not sure what the exact issue was, but Wood Mizer covered it, and seems to have gotten the issue under control.
Thanks for posting. Two things. It might be too much trouble sand a distraction, but some of those off cuts would be quarter sawn or rift sawn. I deal wood for drawer parts. If they are over half and inch thick, they might be worth rescuing. Second, I think I have misunderstood "boxing the heart". I thought it meant you took a 3x3 or 4x4 out with the pith in it and basically threw it away or used it for low grade pallet wood. It would be mostly juvenile wood and very reactive.
Thats why we offer a lot of things like this to crafters, before letting the rest go to firewood. We have lots of woodworkers who sift through this stuff, and pull anything good.
Boxing the heart is just that. A 3x3 or 4x4 made by boxing the heart wouldnt be good for much. It would check wildly. Now an 8x8 would have enough good wood left around the heart, that it would be much more stable.
Were those the bimetal 7 degrees??
Yes they were. Wood Mizer already shipped new blades for free. As many blades as I've used, I've only broke a few. Wood Mizer makes a great blade. I wouldn't trust any others
@@IronOakSawmill thanks so much. Love the videos and learning as much as i can while waiting on my lt35. Keep up the good work!!
Forgive my ignorance but why not do that trimming after they’ve dried, and stack them to minimize the bowing? Seems like you could reduce waste that way.
I would still have to cut them oversized, as they will still bow when I initially cut them. Then I let them dry, and trim them the same way? So far, when we milled them this way, they stay straight while drying. Also, these were needed right away.
@@IronOakSawmill I was assuming you had time to let them dry. My thought was mill much like you did, but maybe less oversized so you could also get a couple 4/4 boards maybe. Then stack to dry such that the bowing would be taken out at least partially by the weight on top of the posts. After dry then process to final desired dimensions, hopefully with much less trimmed. If that makes sense.
But, since you needed them right away, and trimming like you did works, that is obviously a good solution.
@@andrewupson2987 I'm not sure that I could cut them much smaller. I'm leaving only 3/8 per side to get them straight. Trust me, I'm not for having all that waste. I'm never excited when folks ask me to cut beams or posts, because I know whats going to be wasted.
Once they are bowed, I dont know if they can be straightened with weight, or ratchet straps. That would take an amazing amount of force to take the bend out of so many of them
@@IronOakSawmill good info. Just about ready to start with chainsaw milling. Appreciate the response.
@@andrewupson2987 we thought about a chainsaw mill for those really wide slabs. We may still do that. Hope your milling goes well.
curious what you charge for your beams
To cut them, these were about $1 per board foot. Much more time is spent with this method. Still half of box store prices.
@@IronOakSawmill so you charged $1/ bd ft just to saw, not including material charge , because the client supplied the logs?
@@pamtnman1515 it was the same price, our logs or theirs. The charge is for the time it takes to get it right. Not to mention, it was half price from the big box stores. If you can find lumber around here.
@@IronOakSawmill wow, my prices are really low
@@pamtnman1515 this was also a rush job. Had to set other work aside to be sure and get these done. 116 pieces total.
It's just so hard to figure out how you get these cuts straightened out. I guess you keep flipping the boards and taking a little off to get them straightened up. Seems like you would run out of lumber to cut off fairly quickly though. Terry
Once you have the initial release of stress, with cutting the oversize beam, it's just a matter of trimming to final sizes. Small trim cuts won't have any significant affect on the beam.
We plan on doing another beam cutting video. If I remember, I can cover your concerns in that video.
Thank you for showing stressed log milling. I had a red oak to down in the wind. It was a double tree single stump. The twin was not attached by much so I took that one down also. They were growing at about a 30 degree angle. Both were about 20" in dia. I got three twelve foot saw log s from each one before and twisting or major limbs were involved. Talk about stress, oh boy. I had one down two a four inch by six inch beam that that I was going cut in half for 2 x 6 s. I got to the last four feet and it twisted up two inches. I 've never seen anything like it. I have a TK1220 so constant turning is nothing but work. So be it. mrg
The first time I dealt with stressed logs, I got very stressed myself. At that point I wanted to learn how to deal with it, and mill a quality product. This is the method that works for me. I hate the waste, but know it has to be done.
We hope you took some good info from this video, and that it helps you in future milling.
hi shame so many cuts just to get 3x3 4x4 out of a log
Thats whats required in this case, to make a quality piece.
Jerry’s resharp. Ripper 37 blades. 1/2 the price of woodmizer.
May have to try them. This issue stopped. Believe i have a couple of bad blades. Wood Mizer replaced them already.
Red Oak ?
Sorry. Everything in this video is yellow poplar / tulip poplar.
What brand of headset do you use?
Hello, and welcome. We did a video a little while ago, with some details about the headsets. Check it out here. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
th-cam.com/video/wUqxtoHYdpk/w-d-xo.html
In my world when blades breaking the weld means they didn't properly teach the new man
I couldn't agree more. I'm glad they stand behind their welds, and replace them for free.
I would have swore up a storm lol
I had a few choice words, but thats what the editing software is for. Gotta keep it G rated around here. LOL. Getting 2 free replacement in a couple days. I'm happy
Get your wedges out.
Blade broke because the entry was to fast.
No harder than usually do. Just a couple of bad ones in the box