Greatest Sawmill Secret! - Diesel (In the Lube Tank!) at Hobby Hardwood
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2022
- Sawmills and bandsaw saw blades must be kept clean to cut flat, fast, and cool. There are many different types of sawmill band band cleaner, but the most effective is using diesel fuel. However, adjustments to the sawmill must be made, as diesel will cause rubber to swell. Here are my personal secrets for using diesel to keep bands clean.
Welcome to Hobby Hardwood Alabama - a real, professional sawmill lumber production business, ranked by a national website as producing the highest quality wood in Alabama, of about 45 different species. We are not a video company, but we are a real lumber company, and want to show others some of our money making and business sawmill techniques. This video is another example of sawmilling for our business, Hobby Hardwood, Alabama. We show how we mill logs, dry them and other things on our outdoor farm. We use our amazing fleet of hardware and tools, such as our custom New Holland Tractor, Wood-Mizer LT-70 sawmill, as well as our Cantek planers, Baker edgers, and SLR machines in action, operation, milling and while sawing logs to lumber. The Woodmizer LT Super 70 sawmill is the the biggest, fasted and most automatic bandsaw mill Woodmizer makes, with joystick control and Diesel engine. Very few sawmills are this fast, including Baker, Morgan, Harbor Freight, Cooks, Northern, Timber King, Norwood, Woodland, chainsaw mill, and Hudson. It’s not an Amish Sawmill, but the fastest and most modern band mill Wood-Mizer makes, and produces the best lumber wood for wood working projects and our lumber business. We also showcase our Nyle Kilns and air drying lumber techniques. Lots of tips and tricks to make sawing and drying easier for beginners and professional woodworkers to keep our sawmill turning trees and logs into gold instead of firewood. My buddy, Nathan Elliot, of Out of the Woods Sawmill, OTW, convinced me I needed to start filming our operation, so here goes. Someday I want to have as many followers as other sawmill videos on TH-cam, like Nathan and Outdoors With the Morgans. We show how to make money with your sawmill, and pass on our how-to tips and tricks for better sawmilling. Watch us use our sawmill, chainsaw mill, band saw, and bandsaw.
#WoodYoda,#sawmill, #planer, #woodworking,#lumberkiln, #HobbyHardwood
Joe Maine (229) 563-1172 makes my bands for me, using WM Turbo Silvertip stock, 0.055" x 1.5". He is in Georgia but can ship anywhere. The best I have used.
Go check us out on our other pages!
Mail Address: 237 Shady Trail, New Market, Al, 35761
Email for Business Inquires: HobbyHardwoodAlabama@gmail.com
OUR WEBSITE: www.hobbyhardwoodalabama.com
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When the wood is of prime quality and excellently cut, it creates an excellent product. This makes a big difference in woodworking.
So glad we found Hobby Hardwoods
Thanks for the compliments!
I run diesel And I love coming home smelly like an Exxon Oil spill ! 👍
A suggestion for anyone wanting to try diesel for blade lube before committing to the modifications: put some in an industrial grade spray bottle (one that will shoot a narrow stream a few feet) to apply to the moving blade as you cut. This works best with a manual mill such as my WM LX25 where the operator walks beside it, pushing by hand. Holding the clutch in with the same hand you're pushing with can be a challenge, so some sort of quick-release clutch lever could be rigged up. With engine off, I engaged the clutch and wrapped a few turns of single-strand 12-gauge Romex-type at the top of the clutch lever. The wire holds the clutch in while sawing but slides down easily with a quick push to disengage. Not sure this method is suitable for other mill brands. I don't spray any diesel on unless I notice the saw bogging down or noticeable pitch buildup. As the man said, "Don't overdo it."
Good tip. Thanks for watching!
Spot on! Great advice, sir!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, your telling is much appreciated. Cheers
Glad to help
thanks very good info
Glad it was helpful!
Finally ! Someone with some sense ! I even Mix a Little Diesel with my Chainsaw Blade oil !
Yes, its very good for this, Thanks for watching!
Another great video Robert always learn something when I watch you thanks keep up the good work Buddy PS I found those spiral stickers
Thanks and that's great, you will like them. A little pricey, but worth it, especially in the hot summer.
real nice looking boards
Thank you!
That’s all we have ever used is diesel. We also spray it on the rails of the sawmill sometimes when sawing real sappy pine. We would probably fry our fish in it if it wouldn’t taste funny 😂. Great video man keep them coming
Thanks. You are right, it would be very hard to get the diesel aftertaste out after eating deep fried diesel fish or chicken.
Hey Rob, Finally I was able to turn on Notifications. Thanks Pard! Doug As always great video, Audio was good too.
That’s great. Clean audio is difficult for me, there is always a machine, a loud hum or a diesel in the background. Plus I try to find music that fits the job and the moods. Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you.👍🇺🇸
Our pleasure!
100% agree been using diesel for over a year works awesome.
Thanks for watching.
I enjoyed your video and find that it helps with my sawing, Thanks!
Great to hear!
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama slowed the fuel oil down to a small drip and was a big help and still keeps the blade clean
hi there real nice show john
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Thank you for the information about using diesel fuel. I chainsaw mill so I'll experiment with adding diesel fuel to the bar&chain oil to help keep pitch off the chain. I'll probably use mixture in the auxiliary oil tank.
We used to chainsaw mill, its very hard on the blade and the chain will dish it out where the center of pressure is, so is it very important to keep it well lubricated and cutting straight. Thanks for watching!
Your videos truly keep getting better every upload. Very glad that Nathan Elliott mentioned your channel some time ago. I milled pecan today and have a few more days to go. I have a dehumidification kiln and wonder if you have any tips for drying the pecan. Air dry to 20 MC? Do I need to dry slow? Thanks for the videos!
Yes, air dry to 15% to 18% if possible, 20% is OK, but getting near a threshold in pecan where you may induce stress when you remove the bound water. Then set to 110/98 until you are at about 13%, or the wood stalls, then go to 120/98 to finish.
Thankyou my ch
Thanks for watching!
There is a manufacturer in Alabama (if my memory serves me right) that use felt wipers and recommend diesel, one drop per second through the sight glass... The name had something to do with food: fry, boil, cook or something like that. It was no bakery 😉🤭😅.
Yeah, I know them. Diesel is generally regarded as the best lube for sawblades.
Hi Mr. Milton - great content and production as always! Thanks so much for all you and your wife do. What piece of equipment did you decide to use for Wood Chips and Dust Blower to exhaust the mill?
We use a pretty nice dust collections system. Here are some videos of the install. Thanks for watching!th-cam.com/play/PLKWLwjnwxvVqwlkDTzDaIOhT0Nneu9j9q.html
I enjoy using diesel for sure over water no watery mess all over the boards which isn’t the worst thing when handling them but nice to not have to have wet sawdust hands all the time. And the diesel just keeps my blades nice and slick and clean and not rusting when sitting around either waiting till I sharpen them again. I also use a felt wick to rub the blade and the diesel just drips a bit on it to keep it lubed up. This keeps the diesel to a minimum on my wheels and I have no problems with it sweeping the rubber. Glad to see someone else feeling the same i as do about diesel as a lubricant. Love the videos.
A wick system is very good, I may try to add that, is would be a good next step. Thanks for watching the videos.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama oh ya. Love the videos.
I've never understood the need to be squirting diesel (even small amounts) around my job site when Dawn dish soap has always proven adequate for me.
I've experimented and used pretty much every type of lube and detergent out there, including testing for lubrication companies, and working with competition saw millers. I know saw millers who don't even use lube, but run dry, but they are not creating the level of heat that requires band cooling, they are not sawing pitchy hardwood and not sawing hard and fast, or are sawing the equivalent of balsa wood. The detergent and lubrication required to keep a band clean and cool is a function of the wood being sawn, how hard it's being sawn, as well as other factors. The harder the sawmill is pushed, the better the lubricant and cleaner required. Dawn is very good, but does not work as well as an oil based lubricant and cleaner, whether it is diesel or a water soluble oil emulsion, which I also use. Dawn can be improved significantly by adding a little Murphy Oil Soap to it, or Cotton Picker Spindle oil. Commercial production sawmills use oil because the band and blade need lubrication, cooling and cleaning. Nothing does all of those as well as some sort of oil and detergent mixture. Anyway, to each his own, but if the bands are not shiny clean, and the guide rollers are not shiny clean, then the sawmill is not performing to its optimum, and if the band and mill are not at optimum performance it cost the business money. Thanks for watching!
This was great, thanks for taking the time. I would also like to understand how you stack for drying. What is your recommendation for the stickers, and do you do anything different for harder woods like this video discusses. As always it is a pleasure to learn from you.
Thanks for watching. I change my sticker stacking configuration based on species, thickness, internal stress and its tendency to sticker stain. Lots of variables, but the simplest way is sticker every 16 to 18 inches, with one close to each end, air dry in the shade, and in the summer be very careful for heat induced enzyme sticker stain. I may make several videos on these topics in the future, but it's fairly "dry" and I'm not sure who would stay awake long enough to watch them.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I think we would enjoy a quick lesson in how you arrange. I have seen the one where you make your sticks, and the pallet is genius, so keep it coming. We are all learning. thanks again
I drilled out my tank and put a threaded PVC fitting in & put a PVC cap on.
That will work, thanks for watching!
Man, I can't imagine smelly oil all over my mill, drive wheels, and ruin the awesome smell of fresh hardwood. I just can't imagine this for anything but firewood
Me either! I said many times in the video "If you can smell it, if you can see it, if you can tell it's there, you are using too much." Woodmizer is just about the only production sawmill in the world that recommends flooding soap and water as a lubricant and band cleaner, while the rest of the lumber production world uses a super light coating of oil on the blade, either through wick or drip. That was kind of the whole point of the video.....I don't think I'd like the smell or taste of deep fried chicken cooked in a 5 gallon bucket full of PAM, but a light spritz coating on the frying pan is about the best non stick coating around. Same with using oil on a band blade. If you can smell it ...I won't say it again...yes I will....if you can smell it, if you can see it, if you know it's there, you are using too much. Do you know who I learned it from? The professional and legendary Competition Sawyer, Earl, at Woodmizer, years ago.
Really enjoy all of your videos. Where do you find those long pallets to stack lumber on ? I watched your video on drying lumber and have not been able to find those long pallets or wide weed fabric like you showed.
Thanks for watching. Like most things, we were never able to find exactly what we wanted so we have to make our own. If you will notice, there is no bottom in these pallets, because when they are stacked on other stacks, they would trap moisture and cause sticker stain. Another very good topic fora video, and one of my sayings is "Good pallets make good lumber." The fabric is a canvas tarp from a local store.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama would love to see that video and the details of how you build those drying stacks and the type of canvas you make the covers from.
Beats the heck out of cleaning the pitch off a used blade. I Sharpened my own and getting the pitch off was the worst part. I'd fill a utility sink with water and a pound of lye high enough to submerse 5-6 blades. Let them soak 20 minutes and put 6 more in, rinse and repeat. Still after that the bands often needed to be wiped off to get the residue off. No fun. I was aware of the diesel fix but never used it. It would have been cheaper in the long run, and much easier. Got a buddy that has an LT40 WH now, and I need to tell him about this if he doesn't already know.
Yes, diesel is that good. However, the biggest mistake I see is using too much. If you can smell it, then it’s too much.
Very nice. I switched to diesel years ago for the exact same reason, pitch build up on the blade. It makes all the difference. Do you use 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” blades on that big Woodmizer?
I use 1-1/2", .055" bands on this mill. Thanks for watching!
In most places Home Heating Oil is less expensive and is same as diesel but slightly lower grade. Often less taxes on it.
I'm not sure heating oil would have all the detergents that diesel would have in it, but it might work well. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
Was curious as to how many hours you get out of your blade wheel belts and your roller bearings. . Was told that petroleum products can cause the wheel bearing to wear out quicker and was wondering, isn't it packed in a petroleum based grease?
Thanks
Band wheel belts are disposable, I almost never wear them out, but broken bands will kill them with regularity. So resharpening and reusing bands is a risk, because they have a relatively short fatigue life, and trying to save money by resharpening bands more than a few times will cause breakage, which then trashes the bandwheel belts and wastes time. Typically, I sharpen in batches, and once a couple resharpened bands pop, all get disposed of. I buy my belts off Amazon.
I'm willing to mill bone-dry pine logs (debarked!) on my sawmill tomorrow, had previously heard about the diesel but will it actually make a difference on these logs ? My mill setup has two separate lube tanks, I was thinking to try diesel on one and water on the other, they will wash out of the same tube at the same rate...
Diesel will help if you have any sap residue at all on the bands. They should always be shiny clean, as if they were brand new out of the box, even after hours of hard sawing. Diesel should be used very sparingly, as discussed in the video. Water is a very poor band cleaner, however, with pine, adding a good amount of Pine Sol will help the water. However, nothing is as good as diesel or any other water soluble oil. Remember that "Band Lube" is actually used as a band cleaner. Clean bands cut fast and straight.
What degree hook angle did you use? Are you grinding or shipping out the blades? thanks.
I'm using 7x39 -1.5inch .055" thick bands. I sharpen and set the bands myself, as I have found that with even minimal effort I can produce higher quality results than any professional resharpening shop I have used, including the manufacturer. I will probably do a video or two on sharpening and setting, I don't know how exciting it will be, but it would be very useful for high quality sawing.
I’m curious if the diesel in the sawdust, on the lot, where the sawdust sits is monitored? Why not vegetable oils?
The sawdust is sucked up by a very substantial commercial dust collector and is discharged directly into metal bins and sold for various uses. It never touches the ground. However, it's important to note that for all intents and purposes, the lubrication required is so small, that the system is essentially turned off, which is the the goal of this system, as shown in the video. Instead of using large quantities of messy water and detergent such as in conventional sawmill, this uses a very small, minute amount applied directly to the band, and that's all that is required to keep the band clean. No smell, no mess, no issues. Its very clean and closely mimics the lubrication system of commercial saw mills.
Vegetable oils work to a point, but they gum up when it gets cold, and carbonize when they get hot, so can be messy. Actually, there are several commercially sold oil, or oil and water based band cleaners used by sawmills, but the only other one I have used that is equivalent to this is Cotton Picker Spindle Cleaner, used for cleaning and lubricating million dollar cotton picker machines. Thanks for watching.
When I said that about the petroleum causing things to wear out, I was referring mostly to the seals.
I'll get several hundred hours out of the bearings, they will last much longer with diesel as a lube, vs water. As a matter of fact WM recommends squirting some ATF onto the bearings at the beginning of the day. The seals do leak some, and even if they didn't, water vapor will condense inside the races, so it's important to keep them lubricated even though they are "permanently sealed" because they are not.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I've asked woodmizer too and told me NOT to squirt ATF on them because it would shorten the life of them by wearing out the seals. They also say not to use diesel because it'll take the paint off the mill. . On the other hand, I see people like you and other Sawyers I know, who have actually used these mills, who have learned by trial and error. . A sawyer I've known for years also uses diesel and I don't think he'll use anything else. . It almost seems as if woodmizer is getting something from promoting dawn and pinesol. . Thanks for the reply and thank you for the videos.
Add a pint or so of automatic transmission to a gallon of diesel, works even better!
I'll try that, thanks!
That’s it I’m switching to diesel! Did your mill come with “hydraulics everywhere” feature or did you add a second contact strip?
My current LT70 has engine driven hydraulics anywhere, my older LT40 I converted to hydros anywhere by running a power line so I didn't need a second contact strip. Hydros anywhere is a game changer!
Not speaking ill of other saw miller youtubers but watching your operation and several others that are professional operators there is a huge difference in the production you guys get and what I would call a hobby sawyer, which is where I would probably fall. However if I want to get better I'm watching guys that do it for a living. Not saying I don't watch sawyers of all levels, I do and learn something new every day. Even if its sometimes what not to do about the only person that can't learn something new is the one that already knows everything 😀. Not sure if it was on this post or another but you mentioned running a shorter belt. Do you mind telling what brand belt you run and length shorter than factory. My mill runs a B-57 and I think the manual calls for a Gates. It looks like Woodmizer now sells Goodyear supposedly made to there spec don't know if thats true or not.
I appreciate it. I watch videos too, all the time, I learn something new very day. Sometimes...I get belts from NAPA, local farmers cooped, etc as well as WM, and I run a half an inch shorter. They should be slightly tight on the rim, not slack. The main thing is to find the ones with the flat top, many have a slightly rounded top.
I'm a new subscriber , I've used diesel for years but I never get 800 board ft out of a blade. What blades do you use?
I do not use WM Double Hards anymore, I have switched over to custom made bands from SilverTip resaw stock and use .055 x 1.5 - 7 x 39. I can get 600 to 1,000 bdft per band routinely. If you have a debarker, you should be able to get that. However, blade life depends on many things, most importantly is blade alignment, including roller shoulder scrubbing, lubrication, and even sawing speed as the faster a blade is fed, the cooler it runs due to the water in the log.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thanks for taking time to reply. I use a cooks mill made in your home state. No dedarker. I do get several sharpenings on a blade but cut through dirty bark a lot.
I want to try diesel after watching this. I have used detergent and pinesol and still get pitch build up. Do you have to have a pressured system and a needle valve to get a consistent application? Can I just use the gravity fed set up that came on my old LT40. Concerned that just a drip on the blade would not cover the blade like a spray head that pulses by a timer, am I over complicating this? I've seen some videos where others are using felt to wick it on the blade but looked like it made a mess of collecting sawdust. I saw where you started using diesel when you had an LT40 did you do any modifications? Again great information and along with that comes newbies "how be it and 69 old newbie" asking you a ton of questions.
Gravity works OK, because only a drop every few seconds is all that is needed. You may have trouble slowing it down enough or controlling the flow. Droplets are fine, as long as they hit the band just before the band roller, which will roll over the droplet and flatten it out and spread it across the band. A wick world fine also, but I never used one. The real issue is that the amount required is very small, so if your place smells like diesel spill, you are using way too much. Most people use WAY too much diesel.
Robert, I have an LT 40 but not with the lubemizer attachment and I tried but couldn’t get diesel to drip correctly. I called the Woodmizer service number and was told that I probably ruined the solenoid in the drip system. Does this seem reasonable to you and do you have other thoughts? Thanks
That’s typical Woodmizer trouble shooting, I love their equipment, but their problem solving skills are more of a replace everything sort of strategy. Solenoids are pretty hard to mess up, I had a LT40 with drip system and I used Diesel and it’s doubtful your solenoid is ruined, at most a 50 cent O ring may have swelled and may be causing problems. As a general rule, if a solenoid opens at all, and closes with no drips its working, and the problem lies elsewhere. If it opens and only drips slowly then the solenoid is fine, and it’s a clogged filter screen or line issue. There may be an inlet screen on the solenoid that needs cleaning.
The Butyl or rubber O rings that Woodmizer uses are the least expensive and compatible kind, they should be using Viton, which cost about a penny more. Actually, I only lost one solenoid, it was due to freezing. Also, isn’t there a filter or screen between the tank and the solenoid? I don’t remember. I would pull the solenoid off, clean it and test it by putting voltage and air pressure across it, (not too much). I would bet it’s a filter or line issue, even the little filter screen at the tank fitting clogs quite a bit. it’s the one that looks like it should go on a garden hose.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Robert, thanks so much for your assistance. Also enjoy reading your comments on the Forestry Forum! Take care.
Robert, is this 100% diesel? And do you have a video on making your pallets?
Yes, straight diesel. I haven't done a video of us making the pallets, but that is a great idea to put on the list to do. They are crucial to making straight lumber.
I could never get the water/detergent mixtures to work very well. I tried diesel and I’ve never turned back.
I agree
I use water with pinesol
Thanks for watching!
Could I just spray the blade from a squirt bottle on an LT15? Squirt every few feet?
Thanks what some people do, but it’s hard to keep doing it year after year. Some people also build a wick wiper, where felt pads about where the blades guides will wipe fluid into the blade. It only takes a minimal amount, but the smaller the amount applied, the harder it is to apply it evenly across the blade.
Hi. Did you notice maybe that wheel belts gets demaged because of diesel? I have used diesel for a while but my blades were falling out of the wheels. If I use water and detergent this never happened.
Yes, when I couldn't turn the flow down low enough. Rubber swells when it gets in contact with oil, so its important to get the oil reduce to a minimum. I see to cut a belt every few bands I break, so I replace them pretty often anyway, so they never really get a chance to get damaged by the oil. However, if a belt is suspect, I will take it off and put on a replacement and in a couple weeks the belt isn't swelled anymore and I can reuse it. Also, with too much diesel, the belts get too slick and if the tracking is off just a bit, they will have issues. Also, as much as I hate to admit it, WM blades are not always welded correctly, with enough camber, so they will try to dismount anyway, and with a slick belt, they may. BTW, I also don't use WM belts anymore, I order mine off Amazon, and they are less expensive and just as good. I have also dropped one belt size, I like the belts to run slightly tighter.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabamado you notice less jumping over knots with a tighter belt or what is the reason
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama What belts do you buy from Amazon?
Dosen't the diesel stain the wood?
No, there should never be so much used to do that, it should be applied so slight that it would be no different than wiping the band with an oil soaked rag to slick it up, a couple drops per cut. If you can see it, smell it, or notice it, then way too much is being used.
i only use diesel for all woods i stopped using soap
Yep, it works great. Thanks for watching!
Diesel over $5 a gallon...Your crazy...There is gotta be a better (cheaper) way...
Let’s see, $75,000 for the mill, $85,000 for the tractor, $30,000 for the dust collector system, up to $1,000 per log, depending in species, $45 per band, two bands a day, 6 gallons ($30) of diesel in the engine per day, and maybe 2 gallons ($10) of diesel for lube in the tank per day to keep my bands sawing straight and clean so I don’t make a bad cut and ruin boards. Yep, you are correct, I am crazy.....but I was hoping no one would notice :). Actually, and unfortunately, band lube is one of the least expensive things of the whole operation, but every dollar counts these days, so I certainly get your point. Thank you for watching and commenting.