I highly recommend watching Mr. Cyles engine rebuilding on the Hisun engines he has been a great help to me as i have had to rebuild a 750 Hisun Sector and it has went very smooth by the info from his channel Thanks again
The bottom end if the 700 is that same as the 500. The topend is different. Check out my topend rebuild on the Bennche 500 that is smoking & knocking for top end know how.
This motor came from another shop that had worked on it & it was left out side. I didn't strip any bolts are threads myself. I was replacing what was already destroyed. As far as torque specs go not sure what you are referring to. I don't ram bolts hime with an impact gun. I'll snug them up then use a torque wrench & 10nm is just barely hand tight.
That's would be the head gasket. If it fails more then the amount of water will be more & the. Will make its way past the piston & into the oil. Also remember that water doesn't compress like gas & can bend a rod if you get to much in the cyclinder while its running are just sitting & you keep tryong to start it up. I just shot a video on a bennche 800 spire with a leaking head gasket.
Shot in the dark here, but my dad has a big muddy, Yamaha rino knock off and he just had a shop rebuild the top end and new timing chain. It now starts very hard, and once running feels like something is restricting it from accelerating and if i pull the oil dipstick out it has a LOT of blow by and will soak your hand with oil. Limited shops around us that will touch it and need some advice on what the issue could be
Well you will have crankcase pressure that will blow oil out of the dipstick if it's not in there. That's pretty much a regular common issue no matter what on a motorcycle ATV or UTV if you take the dipstick out while it's running it does build crankcase pressure. I would definitely check the crankcase vent to make sure that it is actually venting and make sure it's not blocked. The only way to tell if you have blow by is to do a leak down test or a compression test and see if you got Blow by the Pistons or if you have bad compression. Sometimes when they're hard starting it's a sign of bad cam timing. So definitely check cam timing to make sure that is correct also anytime a motor is rebuilt you need to do a full ECU reset after the motor is warm and reset the ecu.
The T would be for timing. Just double check when you're lined up on that Mark and see if you are at top dead center by checking it by barely turning the crank to see if the Piston moves anymore or not. The letter T Mark should be your timing mark and the letter F would be your firing Mark or sometimes as a single line in front of the T which is your fire mark
Hey, I’m having trouble getting mine to fire over. Could you explain how to set the timing on both the flywheel and the cam? I think I may be setting the cam in an incorrect direction. Thanks!
I gotta ask, but when timing the engine do you have to pull the whole head off? Or is there something the crankshaft can line up with at the bottom? Guess im just a bit confused on that, which is my fault you definitely did good explaining this. I guess im just curious if theres a way to tell down by the crankshaft. Hope i explained it well enough 😅
Yeah the is a timing & fire marks on the flywheel you would line up with a mark in the timing cover. Some models have a small access hole & other you have to take the crank position sensor/ pickup coil out. You do not have to take the whole head off of it. After the crank is lined up you make sure to install the cam & line up the proper timing marks on it.
Are you sure it's not your belt slapping the inside of youre CVT cover? That's a common issue if the belt deflection is wrong are can you hear the knock in the motor?
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 the knock sounds like it is coming from the transmission part of the motor, but I am not sure but the new belt didn't have an arrow on it to tell which way it was supposed to go
Try starting it up with out the belt on it. If it still makes that sound it could be be something in the primary clutch are the oneway bearing & possibly the wet clutch. If it doesn't then sping the secondary clutch by hand to see if it feels smooth are if it's hanging up in the transmission. But it sounds like it's something to do with the clutch if it stop at 2,000 rpms. Also start it with the belt on & see if it's slapping around.
Love how they claim “OEM Piston”. I doubt that is a factory Hisun Piston which is who makes them for all models isn’t it? As for that cylinder try twisting it the rings will slide in easier. Have you seen many timing chain failures and if so what was the cause?
I'm sure it's not a O.E.M. piston. But Chinese is Chinese sometimes lol. I personally don't twist the cylinders when putting them on. That comes from many years of building 2 strokes & inline 4 cylinders. I see timing chains stretch out all the time causing cam timing to be off are even skip a tooth. Also timing chain tensioner failing. Most of it is because it is made with cheap metals & the tensile strength sucks.
Hello, doing same top end rebuild on 500. My top two rings have different lettering. One says ARP and other says A2. I’m going to assume A2 is the scraper ring. Also my 500 has just over 300 hours but the compression ring was missing during assembly as it got burned apart. Cylinder wall isn’t too bad so I don’t suspect that it went by piston but have you seen that issue with possible lack of oil maintenance? Or just being poor design overall?
Also my tensioner was maxed out. Is that normal? Chain seems like it could be tighter. Don’t know how these are new if chain has tight tension or just enough to stay on gears?
The chain stretched out a lot on these units all the time. That will make it skip time. I would definitely replace the chain. When the tensioner is maxed out that's a huge indication that the timing chain is out of service limits & needs to be replaced.
Unfortunately no I don't. But have have seen motors that only had 100 miles on them that were driven by an older couple that grenaded. These motors are very hit & miss. Especially the wet clutches & oneway bearings.
Před nasunutím válce na píst je vhodné důkladně namazat pístní kroužky olejem - vyšší životnost motoru.Natočení pístních kroužků není 180° - viz servisní manuál. Chybí upřesnění k načasování vačky. Ináč dobré video. Kritickým místem HS700 je i kuželové soukolí pohonu kardanu - už 2x se mi sešrotovalo včetně ukotvení do karteru motoru - možná chyba při sestavení a dotažení šroubů ještě ve výrobě. Problém je to ale i u Rhino od Yamahy.
Yeah the bevel gear has default always been a problem. As far as the ring position good. I off set them 180°. The rings still rotate on the piston anyways. So they will never be in the same position when you disassemble it again. Yes I always lube the cylinder with oil before assembly because it helps with assembly & puts oil on the cylinder wall & helps with ring seating & first start because it takes a few revolutions of the motor to put any oil on the cylinder walls. Sorry I timing wasn't shown better. I'll try to show a better view next time.
Not sure which part if the video you are referring too? Are you talking about when I just had the cylinder on with out the head & I said I need to be on the compression stroke & spun it another 360°? I honestly don't know ow why I said that. When it's on TDC with out the head that always going to be the compression stroke because you would set the cam on the proper timing makes & that would be the compression stroke.
Hey Brian, Thanks for checking out my video. Unfortunately I have already sold the motor. But I believe a new one runs around $5,500 but don't quote me on that.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 regular speed is a MUST , this is GREAT INFO!..thanks for adding these videos! . this brand we are like the underdog of the biker world!..
Didn’t you gap your rings to the cylinder ? Didn’t put any oil on the rings. Wow. Must be a low budget build. But my hat is off to you for working months machines. Hate pulling a massimo 700 engine.
Hey Garrett. No I didn't show myself doing ring end gap but I do always check. A lot of times I do 2 are 4 takes and sometimes I end up forgetting to re show something that was done in a previous take. I also oil the cylinder & not the piston & rings. But no matter what type of build your doing on these motors it's a low budget build because all the parts are so cheap. lol. Just a little f.y.i. I have been building cheap Chinese motors & high-end race motors for over 20 yrs & haven't had a failure from my assembly yet.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I had a feeling you had skipped a few cuts in the video. Glad you do take pride in builds. I myself have built quiet a few pro mod engines and a couple other race engines. Keep up the good work. I’d rather build a diesel from crank out as to build a Chinese engine and reinstall it in one of those machines.
Lol no that's one place I have no business is in the diesel world lol. I don't know much about them. Well maybe enough to cause more problems for myself lol. But I do appreciate the compliment.. I'm not a fan of the Chinese stuff but no one works on them in my area but me so I figured the least I could do is try to share the little bit if knowledge I do have to try & help others out. I'm not perfect but I do try lol.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 mechanics are a dying breed. No one wants to work on anything anymore. But the tips and videos guys like you do help those that do.
I highly recommend watching Mr. Cyles engine rebuilding on the Hisun engines he has been a great help to me as i have had to rebuild a 750 Hisun Sector and it has went very smooth by the info from his channel
Thanks again
The bottom end if the 700 is that same as the 500. The topend is different. Check out my topend rebuild on the Bennche 500 that is smoking & knocking for top end know how.
Bolt heads round out. Bolt threads strip. You are quite the torqueaholic...
But thanks for the videos. They do help.
This motor came from another shop that had worked on it & it was left out side. I didn't strip any bolts are threads myself. I was replacing what was already destroyed. As far as torque specs go not sure what you are referring to. I don't ram bolts hime with an impact gun. I'll snug them up then use a torque wrench & 10nm is just barely hand tight.
great video! im getting alil water in the piston but not in the oil what could be the problem?
That's would be the head gasket. If it fails more then the amount of water will be more & the. Will make its way past the piston & into the oil. Also remember that water doesn't compress like gas & can bend a rod if you get to much in the cyclinder while its running are just sitting & you keep tryong to start it up. I just shot a video on a bennche 800 spire with a leaking head gasket.
@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 ok Thank you for the information
Shot in the dark here, but my dad has a big muddy, Yamaha rino knock off and he just had a shop rebuild the top end and new timing chain. It now starts very hard, and once running feels like something is restricting it from accelerating and if i pull the oil dipstick out it has a LOT of blow by and will soak your hand with oil. Limited shops around us that will touch it and need some advice on what the issue could be
Well you will have crankcase pressure that will blow oil out of the dipstick if it's not in there. That's pretty much a regular common issue no matter what on a motorcycle ATV or UTV if you take the dipstick out while it's running it does build crankcase pressure. I would definitely check the crankcase vent to make sure that it is actually venting and make sure it's not blocked. The only way to tell if you have blow by is to do a leak down test or a compression test and see if you got Blow by the Pistons or if you have bad compression. Sometimes when they're hard starting it's a sign of bad cam timing. So definitely check cam timing to make sure that is correct also anytime a motor is rebuilt you need to do a full ECU reset after the motor is warm and reset the ecu.
What is your experience with aftermarket pistons and cylinders?
For these units they work just fine. I always say a Chinese part is a Chinese part but you don't want to buy the cheapest one either.
@ thank you.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 any experience using aftermarket piston and cylinder on a Yamaha Rhino 660?
do you have to pull the motor to do the cylinder removal and replace?
No you do not. This motor was already taken out by another shop before I got it.
is the timing mark on the flywheel a straight line indent ? or a T mark? cause my honda trx400 had a T mark
The T would be for timing. Just double check when you're lined up on that Mark and see if you are at top dead center by checking it by barely turning the crank to see if the Piston moves anymore or not. The letter T Mark should be your timing mark and the letter F would be your firing Mark or sometimes as a single line in front of the T which is your fire mark
Hey, I’m having trouble getting mine to fire over. Could you explain how to set the timing on both the flywheel and the cam? I think I may be setting the cam in an incorrect direction.
Thanks!
I trying to find out the timeing marks on the bottom end
@crfboys482 shoot me an email Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com I'll send you the schematic. Also is it a 500 are 700?
I gotta ask, but when timing the engine do you have to pull the whole head off? Or is there something the crankshaft can line up with at the bottom? Guess im just a bit confused on that, which is my fault you definitely did good explaining this. I guess im just curious if theres a way to tell down by the crankshaft. Hope i explained it well enough 😅
Yeah the is a timing & fire marks on the flywheel you would line up with a mark in the timing cover. Some models have a small access hole & other you have to take the crank position sensor/ pickup coil out. You do not have to take the whole head off of it. After the crank is lined up you make sure to install the cam & line up the proper timing marks on it.
I also have a diagram if you need it. You can email me at Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com
We rebuilt a hison 500, idling there is a knoting sound, over 2000 rpm it doesn't make the sound, could you tell me what you think it could be? Thanks
Are you sure it's not your belt slapping the inside of youre CVT cover? That's a common issue if the belt deflection is wrong are can you hear the knock in the motor?
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 the knock sounds like it is coming from the transmission part of the motor, but I am not sure but the new belt didn't have an arrow on it to tell which way it was supposed to go
Try starting it up with out the belt on it. If it still makes that sound it could be be something in the primary clutch are the oneway bearing & possibly the wet clutch. If it doesn't then sping the secondary clutch by hand to see if it feels smooth are if it's hanging up in the transmission. But it sounds like it's something to do with the clutch if it stop at 2,000 rpms. Also start it with the belt on & see if it's slapping around.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thank you so much for the advice
Afternoon! I am working on a 2015 Massimo MSU 700 efi utv. I emailed you with some questions. Hope to hear from you soon!
Love how they claim “OEM Piston”. I doubt that is a factory Hisun Piston which is who makes them for all models isn’t it?
As for that cylinder try twisting it the rings will slide in easier.
Have you seen many timing chain failures and if so what was the cause?
I'm sure it's not a O.E.M. piston. But Chinese is Chinese sometimes lol. I personally don't twist the cylinders when putting them on. That comes from many years of building 2 strokes & inline 4 cylinders. I see timing chains stretch out all the time causing cam timing to be off are even skip a tooth. Also timing chain tensioner failing. Most of it is because it is made with cheap metals & the tensile strength sucks.
Watch your video the cylinder base gasket has no hole in it on the left side by the oil line
Very good video
Hello, doing same top end rebuild on 500. My top two rings have different lettering. One says ARP and other says A2. I’m going to assume A2 is the scraper ring. Also my 500 has just over 300 hours but the compression ring was missing during assembly as it got burned apart. Cylinder wall isn’t too bad so I don’t suspect that it went by piston but have you seen that issue with possible lack of oil maintenance? Or just being poor design overall?
Also my tensioner was maxed out. Is that normal? Chain seems like it could be tighter. Don’t know how these are new if chain has tight tension or just enough to stay on gears?
The chain stretched out a lot on these units all the time. That will make it skip time. I would definitely replace the chain. When the tensioner is maxed out that's a huge indication that the timing chain is out of service limits & needs to be replaced.
Thank you for the advice. Would you agree the top ring is ARP and second ring is A2?
It makes sense. I looked at the rings & measured then & there is no difference I could find. But I could be wrong.
any idea how many hours the engine had on it before failure?
Unfortunately no I don't. But have have seen motors that only had 100 miles on them that were driven by an older couple that grenaded. These motors are very hit & miss. Especially the wet clutches & oneway bearings.
thank you sir for the response@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394
Is it possible to change out my 500 to a 700? 500 lost power and blows serious smoke. I was wanting more power anyways
I don't believe so, but I'm not 100% positive. I know the 700 have a little bit different head/intake/ & I believe some electronics
Do have anymore engines for sale
Hey Ralvin. No I sure don't at this time.
do you find that the Hisun motor in the massimo fail alot more than the Honda, yamaha, kawaski or suzuki
Oh yeah. They have a ton more problems than the Japanese brands are can am & polaris
Před nasunutím válce na píst je vhodné důkladně namazat pístní kroužky olejem - vyšší životnost motoru.Natočení pístních kroužků není 180° - viz servisní manuál. Chybí upřesnění k načasování vačky. Ináč dobré video. Kritickým místem HS700 je i kuželové soukolí pohonu kardanu - už 2x se mi sešrotovalo včetně ukotvení do karteru motoru - možná chyba při sestavení a dotažení šroubů ještě ve výrobě. Problém je to ale i u Rhino od Yamahy.
Yeah the bevel gear has default always been a problem. As far as the ring position good. I off set them 180°. The rings still rotate on the piston anyways. So they will never be in the same position when you disassemble it again. Yes I always lube the cylinder with oil before assembly because it helps with assembly & puts oil on the cylinder wall & helps with ring seating & first start because it takes a few revolutions of the motor to put any oil on the cylinder walls. Sorry I timing wasn't shown better. I'll try to show a better view next time.
How did t you know you weren't on compression stroke
Not sure which part if the video you are referring too? Are you talking about when I just had the cylinder on with out the head & I said I need to be on the compression stroke & spun it another 360°? I honestly don't know ow why I said that. When it's on TDC with out the head that always going to be the compression stroke because you would set the cam on the proper timing makes & that would be the compression stroke.
How much do you want for the motor?
Hey Brian, Thanks for checking out my video. Unfortunately I have already sold the motor. But I believe a new one runs around $5,500 but don't quote me on that.
change playback speed to 1.5
Yeah changing the playback speed on some of that stuff really helps out especially if you just need visuals and no vocal stuff
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 regular speed is a MUST , this is GREAT INFO!..thanks for adding these videos! . this brand we are like the underdog of the biker world!..
Didn’t you gap your rings to the cylinder ? Didn’t put any oil on the rings. Wow. Must be a low budget build. But my hat is off to you for working months machines. Hate pulling a massimo 700 engine.
Hey Garrett. No I didn't show myself doing ring end gap but I do always check. A lot of times I do 2 are 4 takes and sometimes I end up forgetting to re show something that was done in a previous take. I also oil the cylinder & not the piston & rings. But no matter what type of build your doing on these motors it's a low budget build because all the parts are so cheap. lol. Just a little f.y.i. I have been building cheap Chinese motors & high-end race motors for over 20 yrs & haven't had a failure from my assembly yet.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I had a feeling you had skipped a few cuts in the video. Glad you do take pride in builds. I myself have built quiet a few pro mod engines and a couple other race engines. Keep up the good work. I’d rather build a diesel from crank out as to build a Chinese engine and reinstall it in one of those machines.
Lol no that's one place I have no business is in the diesel world lol. I don't know much about them. Well maybe enough to cause more problems for myself lol. But I do appreciate the compliment.. I'm not a fan of the Chinese stuff but no one works on them in my area but me so I figured the least I could do is try to share the little bit if knowledge I do have to try & help others out. I'm not perfect but I do try lol.
@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 mechanics are a dying breed. No one wants to work on anything anymore. But the tips and videos guys like you do help those that do.