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As long as it's fuel injected yea it will.

Lol. This dumb comment just shows how much you understand how a cam lobe works & understand vavle clearances.

Are you saying you have had this issue for years are just issues in general?

I think with parts and labor this job was only $500-$600. My shop rate is $125 an hour now and when this video came out I think it was only $100

I don't know of any sensor that would cause it to not like that unless you were running on one cylinder. Usually a Hard Knock doesn't necessarily mean a rod bearing it could be a piston issue also. Drain the oil and look for any brass debris if you see gold then you have a rod bearing issue if you see silver you probably have a piston issue.

Yeah unfortunately I don't have these in the shop very often with transmission issues. I've done a top end I think on a 05 at one point in time and a time-lapse video that was a 2 mm over kit on a 05 sv650 unfortunately I don't have anything to be splitting the cases in half for transmission work on the sv. It's pretty crazy to hear that yours does not pick up speed even after changing all the clutch components out. Yeah definitely could be transmission related for sure. But also double check compression and leak down to make sure the valves aren't sticking open or that the Pistons don't have a little bit of blow by

Well you will have crankcase pressure that will blow oil out of the dipstick if it's not in there. That's pretty much a regular common issue no matter what on a motorcycle ATV or UTV if you take the dipstick out while it's running it does build crankcase pressure. I would definitely check the crankcase vent to make sure that it is actually venting and make sure it's not blocked. The only way to tell if you have blow by is to do a leak down test or a compression test and see if you got Blow by the Pistons or if you have bad compression. Sometimes when they're hard starting it's a sign of bad cam timing. So definitely check cam timing to make sure that is correct also anytime a motor is rebuilt you need to do a full ECU reset after the motor is warm and reset the ecu.

I actually pulled the black dc side plug off the voltage regulator and with the unit running and gray side plugged in I am only seeing an output of 5.3v from the dc side of voltage regulator I may have found my problem or maybe I’m not testing right

If it had any opens when you ohm tested each leg that is a problem & if you got continuity to ground that's also a problem. I would say it's a stator problem if it failed 2 out of the 3 test.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I think I tested the ground wrong , when I was testing for ground it stayed open OL on all three prongs which I thought was a fail but I think that’s a pass . The acv voltage at high rpm’s is around 70.0volts which is ideal I think . I’m getting the new regulator now will see if it fixes it thank you sir for any input

@TexasMadeLegend yep if it passed those tests it is absolutely the regulator rectifier.

Very rarely do you knock out a crank sensor because you're running it hard. And then actually retarding the timing sounds like BS to me because in order to hard the timing you have to reset the cams into tl1000s. They didn't have points or a timing deal to retard the timing like that. I personally think they just screwed up what they did and couldn't figure out how to make it run better. But yes they are definitely temperamental bikes for sure.

Yes I think this was a shared motor between the 2 brands are the fly wheel was the same. I forget which.

If the engine is turning over and you don't get spark it has nothing to do with the starter. It sounds more like a possible bad ignition coil or most likely going to be the pickup coil/ crank sensor on the stator if it's a 500 or 700

Double check your battery connections and your ground wire. Also sounds like you may have a main fuse that blown that's what provides power to the whole unit.

It's a really good possibility that your decompression mechanism on the cam is broken I would check that.

Nope it sure didn't & it won't. It is due to a burned out chip in the cluster unfortunately.

No this was a customers & he said it is still running great to this day.

Do you have the seatbelt plugged in?

I am very happy with the shop I have and I got it through Alan's Factory outlet. I also designed the style of building I wanted, where I wanted the doors at what kind of Windows I wanted everything. Color the whole nine yards. The one thing I would try to avoid is doing a completely flat slab without the notched edge. The notched Edge I have for my shop is phenomenal at keeping all the water out. Just make sure you talk to Carolina Carports who is the manufacturer of the building I have to make sure you get the proper measurements for what you need to have at the notched Edge and where your doors will be at. The only thing I regret is not going bigger butt concrete was the most expensive part of the job and I couldn't afford a bigger slab than what I have.

Yes it does.

If you are on the timing mark on the flywheel. You should have proper valve clearances between the tappet and the top of the valve. If there is no clearance or not enough clearance or too much clearance it needs to be adjusted to specifications

I know the fuel pump has its own fuse & relay. As far as maf sensor. I'm not sure what fuse runs that. My guess would be the efi fuse are relay. Check the black 9 pin connector behind the battery box that connects the engine harness to the chassis harness

You definitely need to run the same test I did on the sorce coil & the trigger. It's possible that you are having the same issue I was having.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 took side cover off, and the magnets where loose and broke everywhere. i ordered the flywheel kit , got new flywheel,stater and gasget coming,, i need video on how to put all the gears back on and how they go

That's great to hear. Glad I could help out. O.E.M. parts are definitely the way to go if they are still available.

You can test your injectors with a 9 volt battery by making jumper wires & touching them to the terminals in the injector. You will hear a small click. If you do then they are ope ING & closing as they should. Are you sure your fuel pump it working properly & it's pushing fuel to the injectors

Hey bro, injectors are fine but just noticed no power going thru the sparks plugs cable. I removed the cable and check the coil spark wire and power is good at the wire but when plugged to he coil no power at the end of the coil. It’s that means the coil are not good and need to be replace to fire up?

Yeah it's definitely a really good possibility that you have a bad coil. Just make sure that the terminals are pushed into the connector really well sometimes they like to push back out of the connector and not make proper connection with the coil pack itself. But you can also test a coil pack itself for kilo ohms to see how many kilometers is in the coil pack and see if you get a really really high killer ohm resistance or nothing at all. That will let you know what that coil pack is bad. But it does sound like you probably have a bad coil

Sounds good.

Also, can you tell me where can I find the transmission fluid or can you make a video on how to do it. Thanks again bro.

What year is your? I might have a digital version i can email you. Your basic service manual gives you all the info you need.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I have a 2024. I think its the Shift Forks unfortunately

I have a video on a 2005 GSXR 1000 but the cases are completely different. Best thing to do is get a service manual. I do still have the old transmission from the bike. I guess I could make a video on disassembly & talk about the different parts of the gears that go bad & what to look for. Aslo how to reassemble then & what snap rings not to reuse.

Sorry just saw your comment. It's should be around 9.2 psi hot at 1,500 rpms

@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 thank you!

I use partzilla.com

They are great atvs.

Yes I am

It is pretty good. But I did have to end up getting a kreem kit anyways. I let it set for 3 day & it just didn't do the best.

You need to check crank sensor ohms & peak voltage. It could of went south since the stator melted that plug. I know the stator wires have nothing to so this the crank sensor but that's what I would check.

@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 thank you for the response.... I found my issue I had some how gotten the bottom plug on cdi come unplugged and that is what caused my no spark issue... the connections at stator were very corroded and I belive that is what caused them to melt... stator ohmed out good... I went through the unit and most of the connectors were loose... your videos are very informative thank you again

Sometimes you have to use a ton of heat & try to add some water into the spot where the clutxh puller goes. Since water doesn't compress it will help pop the clutch off.

When you say make it quieter do you mean the engine noise or how loud the motor is out of the exhaust? I've seen people add another Muffler to the end of the exhaust before. And also if you're just talking about how loud the sound of the engine is when it runs in between you and the passenger you can take acoustic heat sound barrier and start lining the inside of the housing

Also maybe a fuel pump issue. When i turn the key to on. The dash turns on. The fuel marking on the dash is blinking like it might be empty. And i know it’s not because i put fuel in it.

When you say crank on do you mean it just clicks when you turn the key to try to start it? It could be a bad starter. Also do you hear the fuel pump Prime when you turn the key to the on position

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394the starter if fairly new, but i wouldn’t rule that out that it had gone bad. I was thinking it might be electrical, just because it wouldn’t click. For the starter. I wouldn’t hear the fuel pump prime either.

I didn’t Turing it one multiple times. There was one time i heard the starter. Like it was trying to turn the motor over. I turn the key off. Pulled it out and the starter was still trying to turn the motor over. It didn’t three time with the key out the ignition. It would try to turn it on. Stop. Then try again. Never seen that before

When you crank on there units a lot the starter solenoid usually takes a crap & will hang like that trying to turn the starter over even with the key out.

A lot of your quads, motorcycles & utvs do that on start up. Does it come back on after the atv is runni g? Does the atv start up & run? Is it having a hard time starting?

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 It is having a hard time starting, it’s like it loses connection for a few seconds. I haven’t found any wires chewed on , and something is draining the battery

Check the battery connection & make sure your battery is fully charged the next time you try to start it. The battery could have a bad cell too.

Are you sure the crank sensor is making voltage? You need to do a peak voltage test on the sensor to make sure the flywheel is turning & the sensor is producing voltage. If it checks out then start looking at ground wires & all connectors.

Damn that sucks. I'm sure you can find a wiring harness on ebay are from Powersportsnation.com. I had a video on an 03 but something in the video files is keeping me from uploading it. If you do change the harness make sure to take a lot of pictures so you know where everything goes

Yes there is. Just take the plug off the thermal switch that is connected to the radiator. And jump it across the plugs and if your fan kicks on then it's your thermal switch is bad. If the fan does not kick on run 12 V directly to the fan to make sure that the fan is turning on. Those two are usually the culprit

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 will do thank you for the response

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Could you make a video on it if you still have that bike in the shop im clueless

I might be able to make a TH-cam short if I have time. The bike is leaving today.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 understood

Check your valve clearances & the the cam timing. Also you need to check the cam lobes to see if they are wore off. The timing chains like ti stretch out & skip time are the timing chain tensioner fail.

Oh yeah the price rage is really great for what they offer but the headaches they can give you isn't worth the price. I do like the can-am way better personally & the polaris is a nice ride too but who wants another house payment for a SxS? Not me lol

Not even close to how good the Can-Am are polaris RZR are. Really have to find anyone to work on them & hard to get parts far. I would spend the $$ on a name brand.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thanks I was thinking the same!

Standard 0.35 ~ 0.65 mm (0.0138 ~ 0.0256 in) Limit 0.03 mm (0.0012 in)

38nm

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 foot pounds?

I think that would be really had to do when trying to line up the nut with the few threads that are available.

The oil pump chain & sprocket are behind the flywheel. I can't remember off the top if my head if you have to spilt the cases to get to the oil pump. I have a full motor build video on the MSU 700 & the bottom end is the same as the 500. Check it out for full details

Hey Jeff I'm out of state this week for a race at Circuits of the Americas but when I get back I'll do a short video on my shop progress & go over everything I did. But if you want something specific email me at Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com