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Chargery 8T/16T LiFePO4/LTO/Li-Poly BMS Setup and Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2020
- BMS that I recommend: www.mobile-solarpower.com/raw...
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Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
I know your tired of doing solar videos but I want you to know, we do appreciate your knowledge and simplistic approach. We would follow you on subject channels you might like to pursue because of the way you approach the subject matter. Thank you for all your hard work. Mark and Eva , Arizona
This is exactly the sort of videos I love to see, thanks Will. Its a true reflection of someone trying to demo a system warts and all without pre-testing first where the viewers don't get to see the true growing pains of an installation.
I have to say, if Will found this quirky and problematic, there's no way I'm interested in this product because I have no issue whatsoever with admitting I am not as smart as Will and the it appears the makers of this BMS have failed is a massive way in making this product "end user friendly"!!!
Hello yes the heat on the relay is from the coil i bought the same one, and it get´s very hot just by energizing the coil, this is not a permanent relay to stay on all the time, this is a car motor start relay.
Man I love your stuff, I am in no way shape or form knowledgeable about what you do and i'm not dumb in the DYI stuff, I used your vids to setup my solar on my Travel Trailer, but you are above and beyond, Thanks Will
Great tutorial! I love these videos! I learn a ton. Watching you work teaches more than you know!!
I would assume that the relay heat is from the coil being driven at 100% duty cycle. 120 degrees F is not uncommon for some contactors of this size. The big thing to check is what the 100% duty cycle voltage rating is for the contactor and make sure it matches the voltage being sent by the BMS because it may be higher than the contactor was rated for. Another option would be to buy a quality no load (or magnetic) contactor that changes position based on the presence of power at the signal leads but uses permanent magnets to maintain the connection so that the coil only needs power in order to make the position change but then little or no power to maintain the connection so the coil doesn't use (or uses very little) power in either connection state.
Same as what an RV uses to turn on/off the house batteries.
Yes good point
Great job Will!!! This is something I’ve been looking for , for awhile now. Great video as always!!! Just seen the end of the video.....that’s too bad.....back to the drawing board 😥
Thanks for reviewing the Chargery BMS, I was looking at it as possible alternative to ZEVA. Seems like too much trouble, I can cross this product off my list. Saved me some time and money.
Well, after watching the rest of the video, I found that super informative... I went through a couple of kinks with my BYD Modules and batrium but I'm using a Kilovac EV200AAANA Contactor
My BMS was 500$ for the watchmon 4 expanded (ebay used)
16 Long mons for around 260$
1 Critical behavior Kilovac EV200AAANA for around 30$
1 Precharger from RecBMS for 50$
150$ or so for the wires
MANY hours in setting everything up
Just under 1000$
I couldn't stand buying chinese BMS's and have them heat up or break down so much when I'm living in a apartment.
Batrium was setup to Keep the relay open unless fault. I also just received another Contactor and precharger from RecBMS for the charging circuit.
The integration is absolutely incredible, The contactor only uses about .4A to stay open and I currently have it on my Freezer setup.
I do have unhealthy cells so QNBBM runs across all 4.
The freezer will stay running for +10 days 880AH.
See you on the DIY powerwall groups!
Please do a tear down of that contactor to see what the physical connection actually looks like and if it is adequate to handle 100A
Pretty glad I bought a Daly BMS like you recommended. I really didn't want to mess with configuration, given that I killed a pack before with a misconfigured BMS. Usually I want more options but factory settings sounds pretty good for this use case
Hey I agree big time. I feel the same way.
And I use Daly BMS in my current system and love it. So easy!
I admire your persistence. I would have junked the unit at the first shunt calibration problem.
Super glad I passed on this one. Almost bought it, but didn’t care for the 8 bit screen.
I wias excited at the beginning, and indifferent by the end. Will keep making my own BMS modules out of Arduinos and components. So much easier to just DIY it and the program you want is exactly what you want!
I had two of the 16t chargery bms, 600amp shunt, and 600amp disconnect, both fried after about two months. Charhery really doesn't stand his product by my experience. Thought I was doing something wrong, but multiple people on forum backed up everything and Jason even confirmed wiring layout. Just FYI I bought Zeva bms(Australian company) and uts been legit..have learned a ton throughout the process;).
Great video Will
I just bought a Chargery 16TPro BMS and as shown in the video - struggled to calibrate the shunt. I don't need it for my case so I unplugged it, reset everything and got it all working. I like it OK. BUT I just saw this in the manual "3. Current Calibration is not recommended unless you are using a different shunt than supplied. Voltage
and current is calibrated before delivery for the supplied shunt."
So it doesn't need calibration in the first place!!! I plugged in the current sensor leads and all is working :)
My main problem is I don't need temp sensors - so I left them off and was confused why it wouldn't work... till I noticed that when left off it goes to -22C which caused charge/discharge to be off.
I built a 14s120p 18650 powerwall that I put in service several months ago. It's staying perfectly balanced so far, but I'd still like a BMS on it. I actually had one of these Chargery units sitting in a cart for a week but never pulled the trigger. After watching this I'm glad I didn't, but have no idea what I should get instead. Can't really justify $700-$1000 for a Batrium. Thanks for the review Will.
Thanks for this video Will as I too have had it in my cart for a couple weeks while educating myself on other BMS options. Going to look into Electrodacus now.😀
BTW, how about a video discussion of the pros/cons of common or shared port vs. seperate ports for controlling load and charging to the battery?
Seems a very complicated system to setup but great honest video as usual Will!
I liked the pause after you dropped the nut 😂
I held my breath when I saw that nut slip.
Everything froze for that split second.
Time actually stopped for me.
Will, never, ever do that again.
I think a lot of the problems with this sort of thing often come from experienced users of similar systems simply because they expect to know how it should work and therefore don't actually read the manual and then only read bits of it when they have problems and then declare that it must be silly because others do it differently or because they would do it differently. Having a shunt calibration is actually a good idea as it means you can use any shunt of any accuracy or even a bit of wire as it can be calibrated to anything. It only needs to be done once and once you read how to do it correctly it's simple. The contactor heat is simply the coil. maybe it actually has the ability to provide a holding current? If a system goes through a LVD event and one cell is significantly adrift it could well be a a thing worth flagging up. As there was only one contactor connected for both charge and discharge maybe this is why it opened? Edit: Having just read the spec they claim that the unit is calibrated for the shunt before delivery and say to only calibrate it if you want to use a different shunt.
Yes good point but there should be 3 separate program setup inputs for current calibration. Having a single menu section, with time sensitive inputs for selection, is just silly. They should give the current calibration its own menu section. And a resistance value for manual setup. That would work perfectly everytime.
one reason I would like to be able to calibrate the shunt in this way is so that I could remotely locate the shunt, then calibrate for the resistance in extended wiring for remote location. Just a thought. Thanks for the videos, looking forward to seeing you cut some other battery apart soon :)
Thanks mate! Love your videos and passion!
Does this bms work for 4s lifepo4 as well?
Nice i am planning on getting a shed for a workshop and for solar
I'm ready for you to get ahold of and thoroughly vet the Inergy Flex. I have the Apex and it's a decent machine that mostly does its job, but your review of it gave me pause. I'm looking forward to seeing if Inergy learned their lesson from your roast video!
Please make a video on your idea of the ultimate cargo van electrical setup.
I use the 24s version, but without the shunt or disconnects. Will be using other means to disconnect, like turn off the inverter or disconnect ac loads. Removing the battery from the mppt charge controllers will damage them, if there is solar input. By the way, the bms gets warm when it is balancing.
Thanks Will. Stay cool. Bob
Thank you Will!
Will, I like watching your videos they are very educational. Could you please make a 24 volt BMS video showing instructions available for an iPhone/iPad? Not everyone has a android phone. Thank you 🤠
Thanks for that review, I had looked at this one but given those limitations and issues, it still looks half baked. I'm using the Chinese fet based board with the bluetooth app for my bank like you reviewed a bit ago. The only limit to that one is that it can only handle 50 amps max charging current into the battery while discharge can be up to 400 amps, not that I'd ever push it anywhere close to that. My solution was to split my bank in half with one on each half giving me up to 50 amps of charging possible into the bank or 100 amps combined and splitting the load across the two. With my inverter setup I'll never pull more than 160 amps peak anyway with no more than 130 amps sustained so using the 400 amp rated bms with two of them, they'll never exceed 80 amps peak each or 65 sustained unless a pack or bms fails with the load only being carried by the other. And at $110 each I can afford to keep a spare on the shelf. Been running that setup for over a month now, and the bms never even get warm during use. Setting my inverters to never exceed 95 amps charging current, I stay under the max limit. Peak charging typically rarely exceeds 80 amps anyway, but it's nice to have the inverters as a backstop as well. I'm using that setup with a pair of the 48 volt Growatt inverters and I'm really happy with the results.
CAn you give us a name and link for your BMS? Thanks
Personally, I am very satisfied with the Chargery BMS on my 24V 8S LiFePo4 DIY build. I have found that an EV200 500A relay is much better than the relay shown in this video. The heat problem with the relay in this video is not related to the Chargery BMS. It is a separately purchased item that Chargery sells if you want it. Just use a high quality relay like the EV200 and the heat problem is solved. Also there is a easy way to calibrate the shunt. On the third step, instead of reversing the hard wired leads on the shunt which require unscrewing and screwing, simply reverse the leads to the shunt from your power supply current source for the negative calibration. I had no issues with the calibration doing it this way. Of course you have to make sure all other battery loads or chargers are off when you do the calibration.
Are you Dr. Bruce Bugbee from Utah State?
@@bungle555 No, I live in Michigan
I have to get this. I just love electronics where I can see whats going on. Even though I have a great system that runs itself I just like to see stuff. And I needed a bms quick and the only one I could get rush shipping doesn't have anything. Just plain. Buying this next pay day.
Hey Will.. good to see you trudging along through the chaos. Just wanted to mention that you need to make a change on your site. I just ordered four 80 amp daly bms's for some nmc "chevy bolt' 48v batteries I'm building .. I really wanted to order them through your site after entering aliexpress with your affiliate cookie so you could get the commission however, I could not find the 'bms section' on your site and gave up... I suggest that you add a bms category under the solar components.
I know how it is .. I maintain a couple of sites and it's hard to find all of the things that I need to change unless some know it all like me points it out..LOL...
Hey Will, love the content. Question, what portable power station would you recommend to power a Cpap with humidifier machine that uses about 90 watts while camping. Not a full timer, 2-3 days at most, tent and car camp, no hook ups. But I want to make it through 2-3 days without needing to recharge.
90’s? You ARE young! Same cords since 50’s I think. I had to use a circuit accessory to use the contactor. I was told that board wasn’t supposed to drive the contactor continuous duty. I had trouble with current calibration. Pulled some hair out. That shunt looks small. I bought the 300a and the shunt is huge. All I did was press the current cal up 3 then down 3 then save and get out. I ended up not using contactor and using this thing for monitoring cells. I do not Ant at all.
Thanks for the info, I'm working on getting a 24V 100Amp lifepo4 battery set up but I'm having trouble locating a proper BMS. Looks like this one is not for me. Do you have any suggestions for me?
According to the instructions, if you use the included shunt, it comes pre-calibrated... but I would agree... they should just allow you to put in the resistance value of the shunt.
Great video Will. If this BMS confused *you*, I'd better stay WELL away from it, LOL
You had me at 90's phone line... just take my money
So still not a perfect bms for 48 volt boat battery system. I really like the idea of using contractors. Too bad there’s problems.
On the other hand, I’ve been toying with the idea to combine fet bms with contactors; motors through contractor and lower loads through fets. If you could program different parameters to these as well...?
Will, you haven't quite got it right. First, the Chargery BMS comes with a pre-calibrated shunt so you don't need to go through the pain you were complaining about. Second, both mechanical and solid state relays have their problems. SSRs tend to fail in the closed position (short) so you can end up with a very expensive dead battery bank. The Chargery mechanical relay tends to fail in the open mode. Third, you need to learn to read the manual. Most of your problems would be solved. The chargery is made for e-bikes and vehicles so it is optimized for that use. However, it can handle up to 600A and 24s. I am still looking for a reliable 16s (48v) BMS. I do have 4 Chargery BMS 16Ts but I just plugged one of then in today so cannot render a verdict yet. The relay coil is energized the whole time you are charging or discharging so that is where your heat comes from but I really don't think a max 176 F is going to cause too many problems. I have not measured this but the spec says that is the max heat and I can touch it briefly so seems about right. Chargery is very good at customer support so far and even drew up diagrams for my 4 bank 600 Ah 48v powerwall using a BMS for each bank. As far as the screen graphics, doesn't really bother me as long as the thing works. It tells me all I need to know. True, Bluetooth and some other data logging functions would be nice but try and find a BMS at a reasonable cost for the kind of powerwall I have. This was the best I could find at the time. I emailed the electrodacus guys and they told me they have no plans for a 48V version. By the way, the Chargery handles low and high temp cut-off too. If you have a better solution for my situation please let me know. I really would like to protect my multi-thousand dollar battery investment.
The heat your measuring at the relay is most likely from The coil, not from the contacts. I work with heavy duty relays and contactors on a daily basis, and they do get pretty hot, but it's normal. You can measure the current going through the relay coil itself to be sure.
Could you use FET base controller to actuate the contactor to control current.
If you ever need to simulate a load again, reverse the polarity of your bench charger, set it to a low voltage, and current limit it to the load you want. Then connect. It'll act as a dead short / reverse polarity situation, but the current limiting will give you exactly the load you need.
I have 7 120ah 48v lg chem 6kwh battery banks. I also have a 12kw inverter. I want to charge the caps safely. I already own a 50 watt 100 ohm wirewound resistor. Will this work? Or should I purchase something else?
I don't understand why latching contactors are not more common. They use zero watts when engaged. I love these but hard to find.
Wondering is it possible use any cheap (Daly) BMS and add contactor yourself or just add more mosfets.
I just connected BMS output to inverter switch and SSR relay for low power 48V stuff. so no high current switch needed anyway.
Please can you explain better? Thanks
Thank you for the Video! If i buy the Chargery with 300A, can i adjust this to arround 350A? Because 300A i excatly need. i am afraid it will switch off in normal situation!
Thanks!
I would like to see your bloopers. Were maybe you scare yourself throwing sparks or melting something.
what is the best solar panel to get to charge a power wheelchair ?
I'm putting together a 12 volt AGM 200 Ah system in my RV and it will be around 900 watt solar array as my main system
However I would like to have a smaller system just for lights and maybe use smaller voltage and use small solar panels and use the L ion batteries like the ones I see on your work bench what would you suggest and maybe you could do some videos on something like that
Thanks
Good afternoon
I just found out that the relays are bought separately. Do you happen to have a link for those relays? I may able to buy those relays if I know the operating voltage. I believe it is between 5 volt to 12 volt. Thanks
Dam I was hoping you liked it. Wish there was something better in the same price range. That DC contractor is crap mine is 3 times the size and it's 100amp.
I only use a BMS for charging I use voltage sensitive relays to control discharge.
Thanks for the entertainment and education will
Is that relay a used to disconnect the battery from inverter?
Hi Will I haven't seen many of your videos so you may have done this before but I am going to convert a van to an RV and checking battery options. I would like lithium ion and a solar panel but lithium Ion is very expensive so is there a way to get a cheaper option. Probably 200ah would be the best option.
Cheers
Eddie
What BMS do you recommend for a 3000kwh tesla battery 24v?
love this video. I would do a firmware up date for this BMS. if they don't have have them make it. that is not user friendly ! I like the FET BMS. and you can control that contactor or bigger one for heavy loads. and most inverters have low voltage shut down anyways . put meter across that contactor getting hot. that voltage is loss not getting to inverter. the way I like is use a small relay solid state to control remote switch . that way only a fuse on inverter power lead.
This BMS is apparently not for the plug-and-play crowd. However, for a tinkerer like myself, it could be fun. Also, there are add-ons available. I've read that there are efforts to improve the English version of the documentation. This is one to watch.
Hi Will, I was thinking about buying 4 of these cells for a small 12v system for my stealth camping rig but i was wondering if there would be a problem buying another 4 in the following year to switch it over to 24v system - am I going to have a problem with balancing after using the first 4 for a year?
This!
At very least calendar aging will reduce your effective capacity. The AH of the 24v battery will be equal to the smallest value of the cells you have, which will be smaller for the cells that are a year older. Although if you aren't charging and discharging completely all the time this will likely be a small difference.
The other thing to think about is your whole system will need to be designed for 12v, run for a year then be completely redesigned to run on 24v, because most components are not designed to run on both. If you have lower power requirements, it may be better to make another 12v battery with the 4 new cells and connect it in parallel instead of making a new 12v battery.
Or you could just go 24v right away, so you don't have to buy components twice. This is what I would do if you have the money, but I'm just some guy on the internet, what do I know. :)
@@GillyGuy Yes, I plan to parallel them at 12v if I haven't been able to buy enough items that are both 12 & 24v capable in that time frame. It's all about limited funds I have now and flexibility in the next couple years depending on what happens.
Completely made me happy about my multiple Electrodacus purchases. I guess if I was doing 48volt...but for my 24 volt and smaller systems the Electrodacus SBMS seems much better.
Yes, electrodacus is way better
Keith m_ Agreed!
I still haven't ordered yet but the Electodacus is very well thought out and integrated. It is obvious that having the designer, producer and tech support as one guy with skin in the game is a HUGE benefit! 😎
Good morning
Would you able to provide me a hook up diagram? I bought 8 of the Lifepo4 280ah cells to accomplish 12 volt for my RV. I will put 2 cells in parallel to come up with 4 packs and using the the 4 packs in series to achieve 12 volt. I bought the same chargery you have except the charge and discharge relay. I believe I need to buy them separately. I don’t know if I need the discharge and charge relays. Please advise thanks
Which BMS will work with a 4S Nissan Leaf 16V battery bank?
Why do you leave the parallel brackets on and then wire it in series I understand the parallel balance is the batteries that but you have to leave the little plates to connect to the negative negative positive to positive so on so forth
It would be good to check how hot the contactor gets when NO current is flowing... some of them get quite hot because the coil that actuates it dissipates heat, not because of the current flowing. One of the things that would put me off with a contactor like that is the current the coil draws. Perhaps you can test these things for us?
I’ll buy it from you!
I bet most of the heat from the relay is from the coil itself. Try testing it on for a while with no load Temps.
yeah good point
It may have already been stated but, I think these relays need a two stage coil, one to pull the contacts on and a second coil switched in to maintain contact.
Hey will I have a question I have 280 ah lipo 4 cells can I use a 300 ah bms
How what voltage is triggering the relay? I think they are supposed to be 12v to trigger relay, I'm not sure, if you do not like it, you could donate it to me! I would pay for shipping,
Looks like an old Ford starter solenoid
This type of BMS utilizing an aux contactor is the best way to go especially for high current applications. I agree with the comment below, Chinese Amperage ratings are mostly "fictional, wishful thinking" and need to be derated A LOT. I would never use a BMS that controls the main current flow on the circuit board itself. ZERO Emisison Vehicles Australia makes a similar BMS 16Sv3. Its a little pricey when including the color touch screen but good functionality. Its also worth reiterating what Kuhrd said below. A standard contactor that is energized 24hrs a day consumes about 2KWh per month, a magnetic switch would be much better. I'm going to try using a shunt trip breaker and very small, low current 48V NC micro relay to keep parasitic loads low on my next 400AH solar battery.
Hi Will, could using a relay between your battery and inverter damage or destroy your inverter by sudden disconnecting or connecting? Solar storage inverters seem to use CANbus. Would appreciate a video explaining the CANbus protocol and how it works integrating devices, and how that differs to other options RS485/modbus etc. Thanks, Luke
It will not damage an inverter if the battery is disconnected. The inverter will only drain it's capacitors before it shuts off. That means when the inverter get's power again, it will take an inrush to recharge it's capacitors.
I had issues with an 16-s model. Programming was not an issue but one cell read almost 30 mv off which affected my balancing
Wow that's not good
I had the Chargery and it didn’t disconnect my Winston cells and allowed the voltage to drop below 1v. There were other problems before that. Rubbish product so feel a bit vindicated after this video. Replaced with 123 Smart BMS and now all is good. Luckily the Winstons don’t seem to still work fine.
Is it possible to make pure gel batterys
Is the coil of the contactor 12V?
I thought you found a good one, but I'll stick with a 123SmartBMS for my next project with the SMART-RELAY. Pricey, but works fine
Resistive values of shunts change with temperature. So for maximum accuracy, you'd have a temperature sensor, or calibrate it at low current, and again at high current when it's warmed up some. 10 amps isn't enough to do that on a 100a shunt, though - so yeah it's just silly.
So sick
does anyone know where i can get this relay from? thanks.
Can you extend the remote 50 ft away?
Been meaning to write you about two things one is how to make an inexpensive battery for a cpap the company charges +300$ maybe 395. I have a car adapter but it’s huge and one night would kill your car battery so unpractical. Also want to go camping again would need portable solar charger. I have a resmed brand. I think a lot of people would be interested not so many for camping but what if the electric goes out. Insurance doesn’t cover batteries. The second is a lot of cruisers (sailboats) are going solar with the Efficiency of the new batteries you should check out some of the cruisers on TH-cam it’s a big topic you might capture a bunch of people with that education also
at 4:40 i was like ooo f''k xD
Will, Where is it made?
They do the shunt like this, to allow the use of different shunts, but it can be made easier to work with!
Can you use a victron shunt with it?
@@PaDutchRunner You can use any shunt amperage but no more than 75mv. Most good shunts like Deltec and such are 50mv.
They turn off the load relay because if you have a big cell voltage difference it means there is something wrong with your battery.... I'd say most of the things you had an issue with are desirable behavior even if the other systems you have used did not implement that.
I'll also add as others have, the relay heat is just from the coil and 118f isn't really that hot, and that method of current shunt calibration is better than entering a fixed value.
You know as good as you are with electronics just think if I was doing that it had went straight in the garbage
That relay seems like a bad idea - I will design my own MOSFET switch PCB if I ever get one of these. 300amps is not a problem and most likely FAR lower ESR than the mechanical relay (no appreciable heat)
clicked on the link you provided - is the cost really $9,999 - the seller re-listed the item that you linked to Will.
this item.
24V 3kW Growatt SPF LVM 120V/240V solar Inverter Split Phase optn
$9,999.00 Free Shipping
and the comparable one you also gave a link to is $639.00 ?
and the other one is $639.00 ?
No. You must have never used eBay. They increase the price when out of stock. Come on now lol 😂
There's should be a balance between programmable and ease of use.
Maybe iT suts the relay off. Because if you have a big system and you are charging at 100 amps. Then the balance system can’t follow (Only 1.2 amps) so iT decide to protect the battery’s and shut off the charging.
Pls tell me what home appliance usess1000A at48V ??
nothing, unless you are running multiple machines at the same time.
Yeah this is made to power a community or a few houses
@@WillProwse or a 48volt golf cart that can pull 600 amps :-)
I have 8s 300 amp version. Connected it to 24v 600 amp lifepo4 battery. Can not get it to calibrate. Had a huge surge in amperage and destroyed my Magnum BMK ($187) loss. After 2 days and multiple recalibrations this is a no go. Not a stable or well programed device.
Your link doesn't work anymore if you want to update so you can get credit and paid for it
Hey Will your ebay link is broken :)
Thanks so much for putting this video together Will, it has thoroughly convinced me not to buy one of these, if you have issues understanding its crazy Chinese qwerks, the rest of us are fucked!!!
Hi sir, can I have your opinion if its possible?
I'll be giving you the specs of the system I'm planning to build for 24V System
Battery = 12V @200Ah x 2 in a series (24V @200AH)
- enough for lights in the evening.
Questions is, can I make a solar panel setup which will really overload the system?
Like for example,
Series of 2panels @ 250W 18V = 36V 250W
Then I'll have a 5 of these kind of series and put them in a parallel.
So it's 10 panels in all.
=36V @1250W
My purpose is to used the system during day time in heavy loads like AC, TV, Electric Fan, etc without draining the powerbank for evening use (low loads)
Or do u have suggestions sir on how to setup my system which will have 24V 200AH only (2 x 12V 200AH) in a way that I can use maybe 1,200W load during day time without draining the powerbank.
1. Is it good idea to have lots of solar panels?
why would you even need to calibrate the shunt in the "reverse" direction?
That's what I was confused by. It should calibrate with current measurement going one way only.