Oh man that paste/spackle file trick for added visual interest/detail... EXCELLENT! Also, I may have learned so new words. Fixin to go look around for accoutrements.
The mold you made is very economical I think its great for what it is. The solution to most of your problems would involve more expenses and casting time. If you want better casts I suggest; separating the pieces into individual molds that are cylindrical as it will shift less when banded properly, using disposable plastic cups if the part fits i will skip rubber banding and just put the mold back into the plastic cup to make sure it maintains shape, doing a full pour mold instead of half and half and cutting only enough to remove the parts this will negate most of the shifting problems. I also suggest getting a pressure pot to let the resin cure in to reduce bubbles on the inside of the pieces.
Thank you for the comment. This is a real hand->forehead situation for me since *I have made round moulds in cups in the past* So you are right on the money and I just forgot 🥲
Love where the design is going. For the mold, definitely remake it - it would be a pity to finish a project of this scale and not have details like you wanted. Maybe doing smaller molds in a plastic cup would work better. Only did a few molds myself but among the tips I picked up off Robert Tolone's channel, using a round mold and lots of elastic bands was one of the things that bumped up my mold quality.
I was thinking it’d be cool if someone (maybe me one day) built one of those giant church titans but instead of a church on its back it had an aquarium.
I had the exact same problem just this week buying mold rubber that had obviously been sitting on the shelf too long. One half was fine, the other half was even worse than what you got. Almost peanut butter consistency. I decided to do a little bit of experimenting, and found that mineral spirits works to thin it down. I added mineral spirits to the bad half of the rubber and then mixed it with the good half. I had to thin it down quite a bit to get it even close to a workable consistency, but it didn’t seem to have any negative effects on the rubber curing properly. Definitely not ideal, but it worked fine for the fairly simple parts I was molding.
Just as a layer of new poured silicone, over a half inch, to the bottom of the LEGO barrier, the put the bottom half of the mold on it, repeat with the top, just to thicken the walls of the mold.
You really fooled me with the picture. I've thought that it's MWM and his titan. Though i must say sigma patern titan sounds as way cooler project than beta forgeworld one. Will follow this :D Sticking the mould between two big pieces of wood should put an even pressure. If that doesn't work i suggest multiple smaller ones .
'sure we got head but now it's time to embrace an appreciation of feet' - a man of culture i see. jokes aside, put the original pieces back in the mold, then put a shell on the mold, like out of plaster or fiberglass. i work with thin-molds all the time and that the only way they work.
You could cut down the bottom of the feet so that they’re all level, and then hide the cutting job by building up some mud and rubble around them on the base/stand/terrain of the model
Weirdo with an art degree here. I spent several years making molds for figure sculpts, so maybe my advice can help: Perhaps what you're looking for is a "mother mold". Essentially, you cast your pieces in a soft silicone like you did here, then you add an additional layer over the cured silicone: Liquid plaster. The plaster hardens and acts as a "skeleton", keeping the silicone from sagging as you make casting pours. Then you simply disassemble the plaster and silicone to get your parts, and reassemble for the next pour. I'm actually working on a mold of this exact kind right now, though instead of using liquid silicone I'm using silicone caulk! Cheaper and easier to handle in my opinion (if you wanna know more just ask), though perhaps not what you're looking for in this project. Best of luck with your kitbash!
I'd remake the mold and use MDF boards that cover the entire mold on each side to brace. Also, I'd use stronger rubber bands to compress, and space them evenly to apply even pressure. This will prevent bowing and slippage.
Hey scratch bashing my job is making silicone molds for minitures, your doing well but adding the chunks into the mold might be good for filling but will leave air gaps in the silicone making it weeker in spots a vacuum chamber would help but to sort it you want to make each piece in its own mold this way you can apply even pressure across the part. We make split molds which is a different to the two-part you are trying to do and helps keep things aligned resulting in less mold lines. Hope this helps if you need anything else send me a message I'm happy to help you complete your big boi :)
I've used that silicone for mold making, and it's never let me down, personally, though I've always made the mold halves way thicker. One thing that might help is making a plaster shell for the mold halves. The plaster will add the rigidity you need to prevent the mold making a bubble
two pieces of plywood, and some woodworking clamps will get you 1000 times further than any amount of rubber bands. since the pressure of the bands is on the end of the mold, you are bowing it out no matter how many you use. clamp pressure is the way to go. just get 4 of the cheapest ones and some rigid 1-2cm plywood. thicker molds just mean more squishable material. which in turn means more possibility for deformations again. in the future make the modl to fit in a pre made wood casing, that you can screw together using some winged nuts
Getting the mild right is going to help making uniform armour panels in the future. Just gotta shell out for expensive proper silicone and build a solid house for it
Before you spend loads of money remaking the mold, try beefing that one up- put it back in the enclosure, get a couple of tubes of silicone caulking from the dollar store and thicken the back sides of your mold, maybe also adding something rigid in there as well- bits of wood, maybe. I've not tried it myself, but I'm told silicone will stick to other silicone. Even if it doesn't work you'd only be out $2 or so, rather than $50 for new casting silicone.
Definitely remake the mold but you need to do two things; poor the silicon until its flat so as to have an even surface you can clamp something rigid to and vibrate the silicon right after pouring, this will help get the whole thing flat and will also release bubbles/allow it to seep into crevices.
I love the idea of casting and such technologies. I think it's very worth it to figure such skills out! Also i appreciate that you've documented and shared what some may call a failure. This kind of learning experience is exactly what most of us hobbiest go through time and again, and it'd be a shame if you and your contemporaries only ever showed yourselves knocking it outta the park. Lucky for us, you and several other hobbiests big in the game these days are great at leveling the perceptual playing field! You made some great STRIDES towards making this Big Boy become a reality!
I use a Sheet metal frame for my mounds with re-enforcing bars to ensure the silicon can't move. But thats not a cheep solution, I just happen to work with steel so I can make grab bin scraps from work.
I think that you need something to hold your mold that is not just rubber bands. Something that can clamp and spread the pressure evenly across the sides of the mold. For that I can think of a jack and a couple of wood planks. If that doesn't work, then you will need a thicker mold
You are right about FW , I just imagine they make molds in exactly the same way , with cut up chunks of old molds and just using elastic bands and pieces of cardboard expecting to get proper registry . Seeing bad technique is still very informative and hopefully your next pour will be perfect .
I think you should strengthen your molds with plastic or plywood. You can probably reuse the "bad" molds by filling the items back in, and fill the uneven back surface with a little more goop to make it flat, and then attach a piece of plywood. That should do the rick i'd think.
You can salvage that mould! Reconstruct the frame and just thicken them up. Run some tape around the seam to prevent silicone ingress. Failing that, you can make a hard shell for the mould - before 3d printing, helmets and large props were made by slush casting in silicone. Just coat the mould in fibreglass and resin to make a hard outer shell that fits the silicone perfectly. You might be able to get away with something thinner and less substantial in this case thanks to the small size of the mould (hell, maybe even Papier mache?). Overall, I think you're on track...!
ScratchBashing just use some wood (or other rigid material) panels on the back of each side of the mold so when you rubber band them the weak parts of the molds don't press out anywhere. Easy peasy.
First one of your vids to appear in my sub box, not disappointed. I came here a week or so back from a Midwinter Minis auto-play suggestion and I've been loving the content, keep it up man
Remaking the mold seems like a good idea to me. Learning how to do it well is going to be important if you want the titan to look consistent, rather than a hodgepodge of scrap like an ork build.
I like videos like this, because, if and when I build enough courage to try casting something myself, I will have much more confidence in my knowledge and ability to do it right! And then screw it up anyway. Cool stuff!
When I make a silicone mold that needs to be tougher, I usually need to make a second outer jacket mold of plaster or fiberglass to give it rigidity. That's what the pros do too.
Remolding and recasting seems like it's gonna be the way to go. You could use the chonkier casts for debris being stomped by the Titan or use them for an entirely different project as "battle damaged" machinery.
You have to make casts of those parts - they're superb. However, I think you should make a smaller mold of just the essential parts. Space them further apart in the mold, the adjoining walls are too thin and the high-pressure of your injection technique is forcing them apart. When re-using the old silicone, try to chop/grind it up into much finer bits - it helps a lot for making flatter, square molds that are easier to keep 'locked' shut during casting. Good luck and persevere because the project is great, it deserves the extra effort.
SCRATCH BASHER!!!! I'VE BEEN TRYING TO FIND YOU FOREVER AFTER I FOORGOT YOUR NAME A FEW YEARS AGO! awesome work dude can't wait to look over what i missed
I think it every time, but dude, you make absolutely the coolest stuff. I aspire to one day be anywhere close to your level. Are you an engineer? An architect? How did you get your eye for seeing what junk fits so perfectly with what other junk?
I am by no means an expert in moldmaking, but I think I see one potential problem you have. In using the blocks of silicon from earlier molds you have created two halves of the mold that are uneven and lumpy on their "backs". This means that when you sandwich them together - even with sheets of card or wood and rubber bands - there are spaces where they can deform. The molds need to be even and flat on the back, or to have something that fits on them which makes it even and flat. I think if you took the existing halves of the molds and placed them face-down in the same shape enclosure as before (so they fight tightly) and poured silicon over them until it was all level and smooth you would then be able to clamp them appropriately together and prevent them from deforming. Alternatively, you could pour plaster of paris over the backs of them in the same sort of enclosure and use the plaster of paris as a "mother mold" to hold them together when clamping.
Considering you will be making a lot of molds for this entire project, remake and try smaller molds (more economical) and keep trying, over and over until you get a good process. Whatever you learn at the start carries on over for the rest, and honestly, your toe "master" copy looks pretty nice (and *THICC*) so it definitely deserves that special touch! :) Others have suggested everything I could and more, so just read off of them, as I'm a noob caster.
Dumb question. Why not just make a wooden frame to seat around your silicon? Basically five 1x4s in a box with an open side on one of the narrow ends to slip your silicon into? (probably the "pour" side) Wouldn't this prevent the "girthy" pieces as it would stop the bowing of the silicon? A 3 foot long plank seems like it would be more than enough for the entire frame, and screws cost pennies. Hell, even some plywood laying around would probably do it? Is there some reason to not do this?
Wow, where have you been my whole life? Great vid. Those thick toes are still usable with work, but 4 more? I like how you keep content quick. 👍 New sub
The silicone was definitely thicker than normal. It may be out of date, or you may want to try altering the ratio to get a thinner solution. Either way the end result is awesome and I can't wait to see the finished titan
I wondered about that. I had more of the Blue half left over from a past batch (it has a way longer shelf life) but I didn't want to ruin my moulds (further) so I chickened out lol
What if you sandwiched the mold between 2 bits of plywood, then banded it up. Perhaps the more dispersed force will allow you to squeeze it harder and give the silicone more support
I think the bubbly scuffed feet are a perfect opportunity to just say this is a chaos corrupted titan. Remember it's not a mistake, its a blessing from papa nurgle.
You can always put a sheet of thin plywood on each side of the mold and clamp it together to increase rigidity, but then you lose the Forge World quality.
This is how it should be. However if I had the resources and time and most important of all, house space, I'd make the warlord titan from the 2007 Apocalypse book where it has five toes splayed in out in front in a fan shape.
Put the pieces back in the mold and pour more silicone on the outsides to make it thicker and stronger. Silicone sticks to silicone and you won't have to remake the entire thing. That or make a solid plaster shell around it.
I'd say that your first mistake was taking the parts out of the first half of the mould, they never go back in properly so don't take them out before pouring the second half. The slippage could have been prevented by keying the mould Half's together, put objects like half spheres in the mould along side the parts when you cast the first half, then remove them when you cast the second half, this will mean that the two halves will fit perfectly and align correctly.
If you ever want some more of those toes, I'm pretty sure they're the moveable grip wedge things from a collapsing workbench, rather than furniture feet.
Thank you! Yeah i had no idea, they just seemed to have wear that would be consistent with furniture feet. Workbench Dogs is the technical term. They aren't cheap, but maybe cheaper than more silicone 😄
Bro I'll be honest... 2-part molds are for people who are super into recasting. I belive in order to have perfect recast there can be no shortcuts made. I do not think this chanel is about that. My sugestion: one part mold. Just copy the part that will be seen from above. No one will look under the feet of your titan. Also resin is super toxic, takes hours to cure and I doubt it's cheap. I sugest you use modeling clay. One kilogram of the stuff costs less than $10 (at least in my country). You form the modeling clay in your hands, you stuff it inside the mold, you bake it in an oven set to 110°C for 10 minutes. The only problem you will have to resolve is the uport structure for the feet. You dont want any part made out of baked modeling clay to take much preasure from the weight of a todler titan.
Dude try again but back fill each silicon mold side with an inch or too of plaster of Paris, then clamp together with a vice and the silicon wont have anywhere to go. You should get a good cast then.
Definitely redo the mold, can repurpose that one into chunks and then get silicone/resin that isn't expired for the new one Love these vids so much! Can't wait for the next one.
if u have lego to spare, u could build a mold case, that basicly doesnt give. also think its easier to make seperate molds for each part. doing all parts in one go is asking for mold problems.
was that a 10mm ratchet bit you put in? cause those are legendary easy to lose, but if they somehow end up as titan material, praise the Omnissiah I guess
I’d say, remake the mold it’s a useful skill that you should take the time to get right
I agree
Oh man that paste/spackle file trick for added visual interest/detail... EXCELLENT!
Also, I may have learned so new words. Fixin to go look around for accoutrements.
Legends recognize Legends, great to see the CrafsMan on here
CRAFSMAN!!
I was not expecting to see you here!
well
small world i guess to see you here
The mold you made is very economical I think its great for what it is. The solution to most of your problems would involve more expenses and casting time. If you want better casts I suggest; separating the pieces into individual molds that are cylindrical as it will shift less when banded properly, using disposable plastic cups if the part fits i will skip rubber banding and just put the mold back into the plastic cup to make sure it maintains shape, doing a full pour mold instead of half and half and cutting only enough to remove the parts this will negate most of the shifting problems. I also suggest getting a pressure pot to let the resin cure in to reduce bubbles on the inside of the pieces.
Thank you for the comment. This is a real hand->forehead situation for me since *I have made round moulds in cups in the past*
So you are right on the money and I just forgot 🥲
Love where the design is going. For the mold, definitely remake it - it would be a pity to finish a project of this scale and not have details like you wanted. Maybe doing smaller molds in a plastic cup would work better. Only did a few molds myself but among the tips I picked up off Robert Tolone's channel, using a round mold and lots of elastic bands was one of the things that bumped up my mold quality.
I did indeed check him out!
Definitely make little aquariums. Great video, man!
I was thinking it’d be cool if someone (maybe me one day) built one of those giant church titans but instead of a church on its back it had an aquarium.
@@mrpizzacat8273 my pet Betta could be swimming around for the emperor on his new Titan steed XD
Excited to see everything go 100% according to plan and *perfect*
It really did
Yeah... I knew it. No girlfriend.
I like the candle plunger, that was cool.
you would
I’ve been waiting eagerly for the next part. Remake the mold. You’ve almost got it.
I had the exact same problem just this week buying mold rubber that had obviously been sitting on the shelf too long. One half was fine, the other half was even worse than what you got. Almost peanut butter consistency. I decided to do a little bit of experimenting, and found that mineral spirits works to thin it down. I added mineral spirits to the bad half of the rubber and then mixed it with the good half. I had to thin it down quite a bit to get it even close to a workable consistency, but it didn’t seem to have any negative effects on the rubber curing properly. Definitely not ideal, but it worked fine for the fairly simple parts I was molding.
I can’t say how much I was looking forward to a new video in this series. Keep the epic build coming!
1:07 "Let's do a scale check - Yup, it is a scale" .
That is my favorite quote from this video :)
It was indeed a scale (thankfully)
Maybe try clamps instead of rubber bands? Either way, those turned out good man!
Just as a layer of new poured silicone, over a half inch, to the bottom of the LEGO barrier, the put the bottom half of the mold on it, repeat with the top, just to thicken the walls of the mold.
You really fooled me with the picture. I've thought that it's MWM and his titan. Though i must say sigma patern titan sounds as way cooler project than beta forgeworld one.
Will follow this :D Sticking the mould between two big pieces of wood should put an even pressure. If that doesn't work i suggest multiple smaller ones .
Same here. Im just thinking - what happended with Guy's voice?
Who?
Great idea with the wood. Might also try again with smaller moulds, Thanks!
@@ScratchBashing Previous video:
"I see your showing up midwinter minis!"
You hearted that comment and full well know who it is mate
'sure we got head but now it's time to embrace an appreciation of feet' - a man of culture i see.
jokes aside, put the original pieces back in the mold, then put a shell on the mold, like out of plaster or fiberglass. i work with thin-molds all the time and that the only way they work.
You could cut down the bottom of the feet so that they’re all level, and then hide the cutting job by building up some mud and rubble around them on the base/stand/terrain of the model
Weirdo with an art degree here. I spent several years making molds for figure sculpts, so maybe my advice can help:
Perhaps what you're looking for is a "mother mold". Essentially, you cast your pieces in a soft silicone like you did here, then you add an additional layer over the cured silicone: Liquid plaster. The plaster hardens and acts as a "skeleton", keeping the silicone from sagging as you make casting pours. Then you simply disassemble the plaster and silicone to get your parts, and reassemble for the next pour.
I'm actually working on a mold of this exact kind right now, though instead of using liquid silicone I'm using silicone caulk! Cheaper and easier to handle in my opinion (if you wanna know more just ask), though perhaps not what you're looking for in this project. Best of luck with your kitbash!
I'd remake the mold and use MDF boards that cover the entire mold on each side to brace. Also, I'd use stronger rubber bands to compress, and space them evenly to apply even pressure. This will prevent bowing and slippage.
As a retail worker I 100% agree with whoever told you that about the mold kit. We don’t decide what we sell, but we do often have opinions on them lol
Hey scratch bashing my job is making silicone molds for minitures, your doing well but adding the chunks into the mold might be good for filling but will leave air gaps in the silicone making it weeker in spots a vacuum chamber would help but to sort it you want to make each piece in its own mold this way you can apply even pressure across the part. We make split molds which is a different to the two-part you are trying to do and helps keep things aligned resulting in less mold lines.
Hope this helps if you need anything else send me a message I'm happy to help you complete your big boi :)
Hey thanks! Very helpful info here
Remake the mold! Mold making is tricky but when you try and fail, just try again =D
I will try again
I've used that silicone for mold making, and it's never let me down, personally, though I've always made the mold halves way thicker. One thing that might help is making a plaster shell for the mold halves. The plaster will add the rigidity you need to prevent the mold making a bubble
two pieces of plywood, and some woodworking clamps will get you 1000 times further than any amount of rubber bands. since the pressure of the bands is on the end of the mold, you are bowing it out no matter how many you use. clamp pressure is the way to go. just get 4 of the cheapest ones and some rigid 1-2cm plywood. thicker molds just mean more squishable material. which in turn means more possibility for deformations again. in the future make the modl to fit in a pre made wood casing, that you can screw together using some winged nuts
Getting the mild right is going to help making uniform armour panels in the future. Just gotta shell out for expensive proper silicone and build a solid house for it
Before you spend loads of money remaking the mold, try beefing that one up- put it back in the enclosure, get a couple of tubes of silicone caulking from the dollar store and thicken the back sides of your mold, maybe also adding something rigid in there as well- bits of wood, maybe.
I've not tried it myself, but I'm told silicone will stick to other silicone. Even if it doesn't work you'd only be out $2 or so, rather than $50 for new casting silicone.
Definitely remake the mold but you need to do two things; poor the silicon until its flat so as to have an even surface you can clamp something rigid to and vibrate the silicon right after pouring, this will help get the whole thing flat and will also release bubbles/allow it to seep into crevices.
I love the idea of casting and such technologies. I think it's very worth it to figure such skills out!
Also i appreciate that you've documented and shared what some may call a failure. This kind of learning experience is exactly what most of us hobbiest go through time and again, and it'd be a shame if you and your contemporaries only ever showed yourselves knocking it outta the park. Lucky for us, you and several other hobbiests big in the game these days are great at leveling the perceptual playing field!
You made some great STRIDES towards making this Big Boy become a reality!
I use a Sheet metal frame for my mounds with re-enforcing bars to ensure the silicon can't move. But thats not a cheep solution, I just happen to work with steel so I can make grab bin scraps from work.
I think that you need something to hold your mold that is not just rubber bands. Something that can clamp and spread the pressure evenly across the sides of the mold. For that I can think of a jack and a couple of wood planks. If that doesn't work, then you will need a thicker mold
You are right about FW , I just imagine they make molds in exactly the same way , with cut up chunks of old molds and just using elastic bands and pieces of cardboard expecting to get proper registry .
Seeing bad technique is still very informative and hopefully your next pour will be perfect .
I think you should strengthen your molds with plastic or plywood. You can probably reuse the "bad" molds by filling the items back in, and fill the uneven back surface with a little more goop to make it flat, and then attach a piece of plywood. That should do the rick i'd think.
You can salvage that mould!
Reconstruct the frame and just thicken them up. Run some tape around the seam to prevent silicone ingress.
Failing that, you can make a hard shell for the mould - before 3d printing, helmets and large props were made by slush casting in silicone. Just coat the mould in fibreglass and resin to make a hard outer shell that fits the silicone perfectly. You might be able to get away with something thinner and less substantial in this case thanks to the small size of the mould (hell, maybe even Papier mache?).
Overall, I think you're on track...!
At 8:16, before de-molding, you can add a layer of plaster. It'll add a strong support to prevent the flex, and save on mold materials, too
Try making a tight-fitting wooden sleeve for holding the silicon mold perhaps. I like your parts picks/build so far. You'll get it!
ScratchBashing just use some wood (or other rigid material) panels on the back of each side of the mold so when you rubber band them the weak parts of the molds don't press out anywhere. Easy peasy.
good tip!
After you work out the air sacs and hollows issue, just a few more years development and we won't even have to [sic] kitbash anymore.
Where's the fun in that?
First one of your vids to appear in my sub box, not disappointed. I came here a week or so back from a Midwinter Minis auto-play suggestion and I've been loving the content, keep it up man
Welcome and thanks!
Scratch, you got a comment from TheCrafsMan himself. It's official, you made it, you're famous now.
Man, i never thought scrap building would be so epic!
Remaking the mold seems like a good idea to me. Learning how to do it well is going to be important if you want the titan to look consistent, rather than a hodgepodge of scrap like an ork build.
The ork build will come later....
I like videos like this, because, if and when I build enough courage to try casting something myself, I will have much more confidence in my knowledge and ability to do it right! And then screw it up anyway. Cool stuff!
You can't do worse than me 😄
When I make a silicone mold that needs to be tougher, I usually need to make a second outer jacket mold of plaster or fiberglass to give it rigidity. That's what the pros do too.
Remolding and recasting seems like it's gonna be the way to go.
You could use the chonkier casts for debris being stomped by the Titan or use them for an entirely different project as "battle damaged" machinery.
You have to make casts of those parts - they're superb. However, I think you should make a smaller mold of just the essential parts. Space them further apart in the mold, the adjoining walls are too thin and the high-pressure of your injection technique is forcing them apart. When re-using the old silicone, try to chop/grind it up into much finer bits - it helps a lot for making flatter, square molds that are easier to keep 'locked' shut during casting. Good luck and persevere because the project is great, it deserves the extra effort.
SCRATCH BASHER!!!! I'VE BEEN TRYING TO FIND YOU FOREVER AFTER I FOORGOT YOUR NAME A FEW YEARS AGO! awesome work dude can't wait to look over what i missed
Welcome back!
for peeps who want to use them to, those arent furniture feet, those are wedges from a workmate to clamp down materials.
I think it every time, but dude, you make absolutely the coolest stuff. I aspire to one day be anywhere close to your level.
Are you an engineer? An architect? How did you get your eye for seeing what junk fits so perfectly with what other junk?
I'm just a guy, standing in front of some junk, asking it to be a model.
@@ScratchBashing Talent, skill, or luck, whatever you call it, you have a gift for this
I am by no means an expert in moldmaking, but I think I see one potential problem you have. In using the blocks of silicon from earlier molds you have created two halves of the mold that are uneven and lumpy on their "backs". This means that when you sandwich them together - even with sheets of card or wood and rubber bands - there are spaces where they can deform. The molds need to be even and flat on the back, or to have something that fits on them which makes it even and flat.
I think if you took the existing halves of the molds and placed them face-down in the same shape enclosure as before (so they fight tightly) and poured silicon over them until it was all level and smooth you would then be able to clamp them appropriately together and prevent them from deforming.
Alternatively, you could pour plaster of paris over the backs of them in the same sort of enclosure and use the plaster of paris as a "mother mold" to hold them together when clamping.
Less than a minute in, and I'm already 100% on board. The OG all-metal dreadnought was the absolute fuckin' best model.
By a long shot, too
Considering you will be making a lot of molds for this entire project, remake and try smaller molds (more economical) and keep trying, over and over until you get a good process. Whatever you learn at the start carries on over for the rest, and honestly, your toe "master" copy looks pretty nice (and *THICC*) so it definitely deserves that special touch! :)
Others have suggested everything I could and more, so just read off of them, as I'm a noob caster.
Amazing video as always. Can't wait to see where the Titan build goes next.
Between this and the zorpazorp mold video, I can't imagine ever buying oomoo 30.
I'd remake the mold for sure. Good practice.
you could try thickening the original mold by doing an extra pour of resin over the outside of each half.
Interesting... I never thought of using the resin to strengthen the mould...
Keep the bits on the toe as adds more story and saves you money
Remake the mold! Don't let Forgeworld have all the fun!
Dumb question. Why not just make a wooden frame to seat around your silicon? Basically five 1x4s in a box with an open side on one of the narrow ends to slip your silicon into? (probably the "pour" side) Wouldn't this prevent the "girthy" pieces as it would stop the bowing of the silicon? A 3 foot long plank seems like it would be more than enough for the entire frame, and screws cost pennies. Hell, even some plywood laying around would probably do it? Is there some reason to not do this?
I would say that’s bigger than my girlfriend too but I don’t have one!
Hahahahahaha!
**sobbing**
I've never seen such passable casts from such a train wreck of a mold. Keep at it.
Wow, where have you been my whole life? Great vid. Those thick toes are still usable with work, but 4 more? I like how you keep content quick. 👍
New sub
We use reinforcesment there's a product that's like plastic, you should be able to get it where you buy your mold stuff
Liked in anticipation
man i thought that thumbnail was from midwinter minis and i was real confused
I think you should try again with the mold, that looks amazing. Don't give up!!!
The silicone was definitely thicker than normal. It may be out of date, or you may want to try altering the ratio to get a thinner solution.
Either way the end result is awesome and I can't wait to see the finished titan
I wondered about that. I had more of the Blue half left over from a past batch (it has a way longer shelf life) but I didn't want to ruin my moulds (further) so I chickened out lol
What if you sandwiched the mold between 2 bits of plywood, then banded it up. Perhaps the more dispersed force will allow you to squeeze it harder and give the silicone more support
I think the bubbly scuffed feet are a perfect opportunity to just say this is a chaos corrupted titan. Remember it's not a mistake, its a blessing from papa nurgle.
"It's not a bad model! It's *corruption* "
well you got alot of spare bits for dioramas and terrain. so long as their not too dissimilar most people probably wont notice.
You can always put a sheet of thin plywood on each side of the mold and clamp it together to increase rigidity, but then you lose the Forge World quality.
I hope he makes episodes of this every week but that's just selfish, take your time in creating this masterpiece!
This is how it should be. However if I had the resources and time and most important of all, house space, I'd make the warlord titan from the 2007 Apocalypse book where it has five toes splayed in out in front in a fan shape.
Loving the kit-bashing here from random items, awesome work!
9:51... Haha, great commentary.
😁
Why don’t you use the megablocks studs as rivets?
My toes are all different sizes, no reason to expect a Titan's are going to be any different.
Put the pieces back in the mold and pour more silicone on the outsides to make it thicker and stronger. Silicone sticks to silicone and you won't have to remake the entire thing. That or make a solid plaster shell around it.
Perhaps a thin peace of ply wood in the silicone
I'd say that your first mistake was taking the parts out of the first half of the mould, they never go back in properly so don't take them out before pouring the second half. The slippage could have been prevented by keying the mould Half's together, put objects like half spheres in the mould along side the parts when you cast the first half, then remove them when you cast the second half, this will mean that the two halves will fit perfectly and align correctly.
If you ever want some more of those toes, I'm pretty sure they're the moveable grip wedge things from a collapsing workbench, rather than furniture feet.
Thank you! Yeah i had no idea, they just seemed to have wear that would be consistent with furniture feet.
Workbench Dogs is the technical term. They aren't cheap, but maybe cheaper than more silicone 😄
i think you can just hide the error by it in a terrain, and you can correct your error in the next pieces mold
ok the candle injection mold idea is so cool!
Bro I'll be honest... 2-part molds are for people who are super into recasting. I belive in order to have perfect recast there can be no shortcuts made. I do not think this chanel is about that.
My sugestion: one part mold. Just copy the part that will be seen from above. No one will look under the feet of your titan. Also resin is super toxic, takes hours to cure and I doubt it's cheap. I sugest you use modeling clay. One kilogram of the stuff costs less than $10 (at least in my country). You form the modeling clay in your hands, you stuff it inside the mold, you bake it in an oven set to 110°C for 10 minutes. The only problem you will have to resolve is the uport structure for the feet. You dont want any part made out of baked modeling clay to take much preasure from the weight of a todler titan.
That's very interesting. I will check out my local options!
could you not clamp the mould betwixt 2 bits of wood to stop expansion?
Remaking the mold
Dude try again but back fill each silicon mold side with an inch or too of plaster of Paris, then clamp together with a vice and the silicon wont have anywhere to go. You should get a good cast then.
Probably better if you do it again and try to apply silicone with a brush, you will reduce the amount of bubbles
Babe wake up new Scratch Bashing
honestly super underrated
Excellent video that went exactly to plan I'm sure since I've not watched the video yet but it's already my favorite video
Glad you enjoyed it before you watched
Well on the plus side you at least now have more plastic bits to use for other products
When you make one little base per feet, you can just have the toes sunken into the earth.
even the sponsor bit is enjoyable
thanks! 🦈
I think you have to remake the mould maybe even a few smaller moulds instead of all the feet components in one mould.
Definitely redo the mold, can repurpose that one into chunks and then get silicone/resin that isn't expired for the new one
Love these vids so much! Can't wait for the next one.
if u have lego to spare, u could build a mold case, that basicly doesnt give. also think its easier to make seperate molds for each part. doing all parts in one go is asking for mold problems.
Remake the mold. Much thicker and and maybe add in a sprue grid for rigidity
Gotta get those sprues in somehow 😄
was that a 10mm ratchet bit you put in? cause those are legendary easy to lose, but if they somehow end up as titan material, praise the Omnissiah I guess
The feet do not look too bad, perhaps you could use them for a chaos titan or a smaller knight?
Sure we got head, now it's time for feet! haha
remaking the mould it is!
make a plaster cast over the silicone