Finally got around to moving the SSD from my old LCD to my new OLED. Have a couple of takeaways: 1) You counted out 3 screws on that internal shield. There's actually only two, and that third screw you point out is on the mainboard, and doesnt require removal at all. 2) You didn't need to disconnect the battery, if you put the unit in storage mode. 3) You can and should disconnect the ribbon cable that goes over the shield, where it's labelled "C-R". You just lift the white clip holding the end of the cable and pull it out. 4) When you put the shielding back into place, make sure the bottm right screw hole in it lines up with the screw hole in the mainboard. I say this as it may shift or bend out of alignment, and need to be popped back into place. 5) The SSD from your old Steam Deck is plug and play, and all your games, apps and files will appear exactly the same on your new deck, which is great. Otherwise all good and thanks for the guide!
I usually use an old ice cube tray for the screws, especially since I can separate them by step and it also helps me remember in what order the particular screws go back in
meh I just use this magnetic tray I got from some where to hold the screws and they don't go no where they stick to the tray bottom plain and simple as for the torques tools I got a master craft it from Canadian tire so I could get into my stream deck oled I tried walmart but they didn't carry the tools there sight said they carried so canadian tire it was they were just across the street anyways so no big treck to get there luckily
Pill dispensers are even better because they have a lid for each section so you can clamp them closed in case you nudge the thing or it falls of your desk, the screws will all be secure.
Thank you! Finally someone who carefully demonstrates how to switch the SSD on the OLED! I don’t understand why there is no tutorial videos yet when it seems like everyone is buying the 512GB & switching the SSD with a higher storage size. Many seems to choose the normal glossy screen instead and don’t want the etched anti-glare screen Steam Deck because they say it greatly reduces color vibrancy which makes colors pop, which is the main reason why people want the OLED screen in the first place. I’m switching my 512GB SD with a 2TB tomorrow.
Thank you so much, I'm glad you like this! I love my glossy but I also ordered an etched screen because I wanted to see for myself how the two compare side by side. Video coming soon!
@@TonyCassaranice! I am pretty sure it will come down to personal preference. I don’t think Valve would have chosen the etched glass for the highest tier model if it would be noticeably worse than the glossy one.
@@Trojanischer_EselBut it IS noticeably worse than the glossy screen. Matte screens DEGRADE picture quality. The best TV's and monitors use OLED glossy panels for a reason. Matte sacrifices picture quality for increased anti-glare performance. Nothing more.
I’ve just upgraded my oled Steam Deck SSD. The video helped but I did a couple of things differently. I disconnected the ribbon cable from the left hand side and folded the shield over to give me easy access to the SSD. I also only needed to unscrew the two left screws on the shield, the other one appears to be holding the PCP to the case.
I swapped my 1tb SSD from my LCD Deck into my OLED last night. From studying various videos and guides i decided this method was better than unplugging and/or unsticking the screen cable. There is enough slack due to the folds in said cable to work around it to get to the SSD and to remove & install it. Whichever method you do just take your time...
Another thing you can use for holding screws is an ice tray. Then you can keep them in order. Its a trick I learned a long time ago from macbook repair tutorials.
i needed an extra step, with a corsair 2TB SSD it was very slightly thicker than the 512GB i removed, which meant sliding the silver shielding would not go over the new SSD. So if that's the case, carefully unstick the shielding wrap, place around the new SSD and re-stick it around. It's pretty easy but use tweezers rather than fingers ideally so you dont remove all the sticky residue with your fingers. Oh and i just unstuck the cable(s) from the main black plate, it goes back on just fine.
I like to use a pill caddy to keep my screws safe when doing disassembly or repairs. Much better than the paper plate and more compartments to keep the screws organized.
Make sure you pull the white tab out on the black ribbon. Took me a while to figure this out. Also check your OLED for dead or stuck pixels, mine has 3, very annoying and I hope Valve RMA’s mine.
Definitely do not over tighten screws on PCB boards in compact units like this. The PCB can take heat fine, but the metal of the screw expands when heat rises from use, and that small amount on a tight screw can crack your board or drive.
Why not disconnect the ribbon cable from the connector it's attached to on the board labeled "R"? Feel like you're more prone to damaging that cable by accidently yanking it by holding that heat shield up vs disconnecting it and flipping the heatshield over on top of the fan to give you the space you need to replace the SSD.
This. It's very frustrating that no Steam Deck OLED teardowns show this ribbon being disconnected, even iFixit's just magically had the cable disappear between steps. It's one of those zero insertion force connectors that you just flip up, easy enough to do but nobody shows it!
@@me2olive Most people aren't familiar with those types of connection and would rather not touch it. They are easy but can be a pita at the same time depending on the angle (in general). But yah, they could maybe add in a "you can do it this way as well" part showing it, I guess.
You can fix that stripped screw with epoxy resin. A very small amount of it injected into the thread, use a tiny drill after it sets to give it a center. Then reseat your screw to make new threads. Lot of tutorials out there on how to do it that might be worth looking at. It is not a fun process though.
Great thanks in no rush to upgrade my oled will wait a one yeah and buy a 2tb SSD for cheaper hopefully, £180 is bit much now like a 4tb SSD really have massive amount of Steam games.
RE: “unplug the ribbon cable first” - there’s another wire hot glued to the bottom of the backplate and by unplugging the ribbon cable you’re increasing the potential for added force on that remaining wire. By keeping both you’ll spread force evenly between them and have a very obvious reminder not to push it!
It wasn't hot glued on mine, just taped to the bottom of the shield, and the little piece of tape was easy to unstick after I'd disconnected the ribbon from one side. You're far more likely to damage a ribbon cable twisting and wrestling with it like this than just disconnecting one end, it has a zero insertion force connector that you just flip up.
@@me2olive just swapped my SSD it wasn't hot glued for me either just gently lifted that shied up after unplugging the ribbon cable and the tape released very easy. this video looks way more of a hassle that it needs to be
4:20 DO NOT "work around it", disconnect the battery connector properly! The small "C-R" cable on the bottom left with the white clamp, just flip the white tab then gently pull the cable out, you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery when you are working on devices. Once you are done you can easily slot it back in and flip down the clamp again to secure the cable. 5:09 Yes you do but NOT FROM THERE, disconnect the left connector which connects it to the motherboard, that's why the clamp is there. That is WAY EASIER than what he's doing. If you disconnect the battery properly you can fold back the shield completely off the Steam Deck, making it MUCH easier to access the M.2 slot. The way he's installing the SteamOS image is wrong too, it's WAY easier to get a USB-C drive (or one of those combo USB-A/USB-C drives), then use RUFUS (or another image installer), download the image file from the Steam website and install from the USB drive, that will also be WAY faster than using an SDCard.
Thanks for this; very much appreciated! Asked on the Steam Deck subreddit as I couldn't find a proper guide for swapping SSD on the OLED yet and only got downvoted!
Unplug the ribbon cable and take the entire shield with the cable attached and set it on the battery so you dont have to keep juggling the shield and SSD.
Just upgradeed my oled with a 2tb ssd There is only 2 screws that hold down the heat plate. The third screw that was removed last in this video actuality fastens a portion of the mobo down
@@PSYCHOV3N0Mfrom what I’ve seen and read on others experience using an self card on the deck, it really doesn’t make a difference. Especially if you’re not playing Moderna AAA tittles off of it.
I have a genuine question: 1)If i choose the 64gb Steam deck and then swap the 64 to 2tb, will my steam deck function like normal? Meaning no crash or slow or any malfunction whatsoever? 2)How to get the 2tb to swap with the 64gb? Like can someone recommended where to purchase it? Along with the tool kits that the guy used to open the back of the steam? 3)Do i have to install windows/linux on my steam dec? But i wanna install windows.Idk why. perhaps i could watch utube? or maybe spotify😭🤦
When I tried to pull out the battery plug using the tab, the transparent part of the pulling aid came out of the plug. I then pinned it off with a flat tool. I hope it's no problem. I'm afraid I've damaged something. Tomorrow the SSD will arrive and I can test it. Opening it was child's play with the ifixit tool it took 4 seconds. Why can't everything just work like in the ifixit instructions? I only saw your video afterwards.
hello i wanted to know if i do the reimage on the sd card can i still swap out the reimage sd card with a brand new sd card for increase storage or do i have to keep the reimage sd card in the steam deck for it to work?
After you’ve recovered the SteamOS image you can remove the SD card / usb drive because your SSD will now have SteamOS installed on it. Thanks for the question!
@@TonyCassara and formatting the ssd is necessary even if u don’t mind re downloading all of ur games u had on the factory hard drive that we remove ? Like I can’t just switch to my 2tb ssd and then start re downloading the games I had . I don’t have an sd card just the 2tb ssd?
Great guide, I was just wondering, have you tried the "loosen two screws" fix for the audio hiss? I read you can just slightly loosen the two screws on the audioboard to fix the issue.
Hey sir loved the video, however during the clone process i keep getting an error code after entering the sudo pwd I keep getting error no space left error reading code /dev/sda ?? I am so lost, ive tried restarting and everything. Im trying to clone my 512steam deck oled to a 2tb mp600 corsair ssd and using a sabrent enclosure
step 1: Remove Micro SD card step 2: remove SD bnackplate step 3: please, LEAVE the ribbon cable glued to the APU shield/plate, trying to remove the ribbon equals risking tearing the thin cable even with its protective layer. i tried removing it but refrained due to fear of tearing. it takes an awful lot of force. its REALLY glued down to stay there. unless the ribbon is already cooked, leave it. step 4: (THIS IS OPTIONAL) you could release the ribbon cable from its connector on the left-hand side closest to the shield. after this you can carefully fold the ribbon cable WITHOUT force onto the right side, give you a little more 'working space'. do be very careful when unlocking the ribbon connector to remove the cable, as these connectors are fragile. too much force can break the lever.
Your video was not out before I did this. I say if we removed the cord on the case and press the glue back onto the case, is there anything I should look out for because I did open up the little white flap and took the cord out and put it back in correctly. So is there any issues I should look out for because of moving the cable
@@TonyCassara also a small thing I witnessed on the steam deck oled limited edition there is one pixel on the top right on my system I tried contacting valve They told me they won’t take the system back for RMA but they might consider after I use the system for 30 days
This is the one thing valve could have done better by making the steam deck upgradable like the ps5. Or even make the system drive more userfriendly swapable.
If i swap my 1tb in to my oled do i need to do any formatting or anything at all or should it just work? And also if i put the 512gb in my in my LCD steam deck should it be fine?
Those aren't hard drives, those are SSDs at worst (NVME at best), though M.2 drive would be the best description; Hard Drive describes a rotating platter drive, which are antiquated for most use-case in modernity.
No, it isn't actually; NVME drives ARE NOT SSDs, nor are they interchangeable with them in a number of cases; M.2 slots, with storage in mind, are keyed for two form-factors, M key & B key; M key are utilized for NVME drives and utilize PCIe X2 or X4 modes presently. B key is used for SSDs.
I got a question, if i have the 2 tb with the files of the LCD Steam deck that one can be used in the oled? Or i have to reinstall everything and reimage Steam OS?
Hey quick question. Do you use wired earbuds plugged into 3.5mm jack on your deck? If you do, do hear a constant static noise coming through the earbuds? I have tried 3 different wired earbuds on my steam deck oled, and I hear a constant static noise with all 3.
Yes I have buzzing with sensitive IEMs also. I use a dongle called the ifi IEMatch that eliminates noise so I can’t hear it normally but I’ve read it might be a driver issue also. I’ll investigate, if it’s a driver issue I’ll make a quick video.
@@TonyCassarathis sounds like you’re an audio nerd as well? :) Will try with my u12t when I am back home. The ifi dongles are always nice, but honestly a lot of devices just have an extremely bad headphone jack. If you don’t need to charge at the same time a USB C to 3.5mm DAC dongle might be better if supported. The Apple one performs extremely well for the price. Will try this out as well.
@@Trojanischer_Eseldude u12t are legendary ive got the custom version a12t! the apple dongle is the best price and so rock solid but i adore my questyle m15 the sound is SO good very warm and deep bass.
@@TonyCassara Wow! Now I’m jealous. I couldn’t justify the price for the custom version, since I got a pretty good deal for the universal one second hand. I feel like the Apple Dongle might be great as a recommendation for everyone. Also I think I would prefer the smaller formfactor for the Deck. I have to look into the Questyle for music listening though :) I own the Qudelix 5K, not sure how they would compare.
@@TonyCassara and if I don’t have an sd card. Just my new 2tb ssd then I can just do the swap and re download the games that I want without the whole formatting , reimagine process? Basically just plug and play?
@@TonyCassara How long should the deck take to come back on in this case. Mines stuck on the steam logo after swapping out the ssd with a 2 tb I had in the LCD model.
@@nevanpeck3105 did you update to the latest SteamOS before swapping it in? the "Preview" build? If not you'll need to swap it back and do that otherwise the latest firmware wont be supported. you can read more here: www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/17wt6d1/anyone_know_if_itll_be_possible_to_pop_a_ssd_from/
just seeing this makes my hand sweat. it seems simple, but a $900 device like this make you not want to rush anything. I'm gonna wear a glove when I do this, and purchase literally every tool possible, because i would be too scared otherwise.
No it won’t work because the SSD points to the bottom of the case and the longer NVME drive wouldn’t fit. I’ve seen people do some crazy stuff like right angle adapters but it’s just not worth it when SSDs are so cheap right now.
I get all the first part but I want to know on the files part, I wish you had showed it and how that part is done, I am afriad to mess up my steam deck, been waiting for someoen to show me on the files part because you ahve to put in the program back itno the asteam deck so please can you show us next time that part.
I will make a separate video, thanks for the feedback! For now check the link in the description the instructions are pretty good but they don’t show you step by step.
Hey good video but my back was sweating. You could have made your life so much easier by disconnecting the ribbon cable from the daughter board. By not doing so you run the risk of damaging or completely ripping it. This is very easy to remove just lift up the white tab holding the cable down and lift the up at a slight angle and pull it free the socket. As long as you take your time you make swapping the ssd drive a whole lot easier for yourself.
Huh I always thought it was like a square / rectangle situation where a square is a rectangle but a rectangle isn’t always a square. Turns out SSD and Hard Drive are mutually exclusive terms. Hope the hangover wasn’t too bad!
No, not if you have a case you can put the new SSD in to connect it to the Steam Deck via USB C. This way you can clone the „old“ internal SSD including the operating system to your new one first through desktop mode. After that you can swap them out. This is how I did it, worked flawlessly. EDIT: well I just realized if you don’t have other data on your old SSD, you can just create the recovery image on the Steam Deck itself beforehand. You just need a USB C drive this way.
Too fucking shit to do, was watching cause i'm planning to buy the 1to steam deck oled and i wanted to put a screen protector but apparently that degrade the quality or it's horrible whatever. But honestly i'll see, don't wanna risk myself in that hard risky switch of ssd
Oh man, this is definitely something I'd rather pay someone to do; I can install ram and graphics cards, that's about it. I'm assuming this voids the warranty?
@PSYCHOV3N0M I don't think that's a fair comparison, since the other method of upgrading storage is just slipping a card into the micro card slot. Some places are more lenient with their warranties, and it's quite common for one to be voided by merely removing a back plate, even if you don't touch anything inside.
The L4 switch fell off my left trigger board and Steam will not repair under warranty. Obviously there is no way to apply enough force on the switch to dislodge it. So shame on Steam!!!
Using the term “hard drive” is a perfectly acceptable colloquialism to refer to both an HDD and SSD. What we consider “hard” in the HDD terminology is arbitrary, since we could equally refer to the storage in solid state drives as “hard” as well. There are still a large contingent of legacy users who aren’t familiar with the correct nomenclature of mainstream hardware. It’s also totally futile and unnecessary to correct what can be gleaned via context. TLDR; don’t be a knob.
Stop calling it a hard drive. Steam Deck uses a solid state drive. Hard drives are mechanical, they have moving parts, they're much slower, and they make noise. Solid state drives are much faster, have no moving parts and are completely silent. Two different things.
I noticed the same thing it’s a much harder upgrade than the RIG Ally but I think that’s a trade off for having larger SSDs by default. They optimized the build and made it slightly harder to repair.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Step 1: Remove your Micro SD Card
Step 2: REMOVE YOUR MICRO SD CARD, BECAUSE YOU DEFINITELY DIDN'T DO IT IN STEP ONE!
“I’m in this post and I don’t like it” 😅
@@TonyCassara Haha, props for leaving it in the video to show it can happen to all of us. Thanks for the tutorial
Thank God it didn't snap his microsd card. I'd definitely not want that with my 1 TB microsd that thing was expensive.
yes thanks to this video now my SD card is in half.....
Finally got around to moving the SSD from my old LCD to my new OLED. Have a couple of takeaways:
1) You counted out 3 screws on that internal shield. There's actually only two, and that third screw you point out is on the mainboard, and doesnt require removal at all.
2) You didn't need to disconnect the battery, if you put the unit in storage mode.
3) You can and should disconnect the ribbon cable that goes over the shield, where it's labelled "C-R". You just lift the white clip holding the end of the cable and pull it out.
4) When you put the shielding back into place, make sure the bottm right screw hole in it lines up with the screw hole in the mainboard. I say this as it may shift or bend out of alignment, and need to be popped back into place.
5) The SSD from your old Steam Deck is plug and play, and all your games, apps and files will appear exactly the same on your new deck, which is great.
Otherwise all good and thanks for the guide!
I usually use an old ice cube tray for the screws, especially since I can separate them by step and it also helps me remember in what order the particular screws go back in
Clever idea I like this a lot!
meh I just use this magnetic tray I got from some where to hold the screws and they don't go no where they stick to the tray bottom plain and simple as for the torques tools I got a master craft it from Canadian tire so I could get into my stream deck oled I tried walmart but they didn't carry the tools there sight said they carried so canadian tire it was they were just across the street anyways so no big treck to get there luckily
I use a blue magnetic piece that comes with the screw driver set, and is perfect, it just keeps the screws atached.
The MacGyver is strong with you. Well done.
Pill dispensers are even better because they have a lid for each section so you can clamp them closed in case you nudge the thing or it falls of your desk, the screws will all be secure.
Thank you! Finally someone who carefully demonstrates how to switch the SSD on the OLED! I don’t understand why there is no tutorial videos yet when it seems like everyone is buying the 512GB & switching the SSD with a higher storage size. Many seems to choose the normal glossy screen instead and don’t want the etched anti-glare screen Steam Deck because they say it greatly reduces color vibrancy which makes colors pop, which is the main reason why people want the OLED screen in the first place. I’m switching my 512GB SD with a 2TB tomorrow.
Thank you so much, I'm glad you like this! I love my glossy but I also ordered an etched screen because I wanted to see for myself how the two compare side by side. Video coming soon!
@@TonyCassaranice! I am pretty sure it will come down to personal preference. I don’t think Valve would have chosen the etched glass for the highest tier model if it would be noticeably worse than the glossy one.
i mean to be honest it's pretty much the same as lcd one and i think most people could figure it out without even watching a video...
@@Trojanischer_EselBut it IS noticeably worse than the glossy screen.
Matte screens DEGRADE picture quality.
The best TV's and monitors use OLED glossy panels for a reason.
Matte sacrifices picture quality for increased anti-glare performance. Nothing more.
Going to save this video for when I plan on doing the SSD swap from my LCD deck to OLED deck
I’ve just upgraded my oled Steam Deck SSD. The video helped but I did a couple of things differently. I disconnected the ribbon cable from the left hand side and folded the shield over to give me easy access to the SSD. I also only needed to unscrew the two left screws on the shield, the other one appears to be holding the PCP to the case.
Just did mine today with no issues. Used same precision screwdriver, pry tools, etc. thanks!!!
I used WD Black SS770N 2TB SSD purchased from Best Buy.
Great choice!
I swapped my 1tb SSD from my LCD Deck into my OLED last night. From studying various videos and guides i decided this method was better than unplugging and/or unsticking the screen cable.
There is enough slack due to the folds in said cable to work around it to get to the SSD and to remove & install it.
Whichever method you do just take your time...
Another thing you can use for holding screws is an ice tray. Then you can keep them in order. Its a trick I learned a long time ago from macbook repair tutorials.
Oh this is a really clever idea! Thank you!
Thank you for the video, it worked for me, went from 512 to 2tb smoothly
i needed an extra step, with a corsair 2TB SSD it was very slightly thicker than the 512GB i removed, which meant sliding the silver shielding would not go over the new SSD. So if that's the case, carefully unstick the shielding wrap, place around the new SSD and re-stick it around. It's pretty easy but use tweezers rather than fingers ideally so you dont remove all the sticky residue with your fingers. Oh and i just unstuck the cable(s) from the main black plate, it goes back on just fine.
thanks for the info buddy👌🏼
You are a hero. This is the best how to for the OLED on TH-cam, well done!
I like to use a pill caddy to keep my screws safe when doing disassembly or repairs. Much better than the paper plate and more compartments to keep the screws organized.
Great idea!
🔗 links
iFixit steam deck ssd swap instructions: www.ifixit.com/Guide/Steam+Deck+SSD+Replacement/148989
Cheap precision screwdriver kit: amzn.to/47wJ2jg
iFixit pry tools: amzn.to/3MWAM3Z
Steam deck recovery image instructions: help.steampowered.com/en/faqs/view/1B71-EDF2-EB6D-2BB3
Anker 2-in-1 Memory Card Reader - amzn.to/47wI9an
AliExpress WD SN740 2TB SSD - go.magik.ly/ml/1yke3
You should pin this comment.
Saving this video for later! Thank you!
Thanks for the clear and practical instructions!
Make sure you pull the white tab out on the black ribbon.
Took me a while to figure this out. Also check your OLED for dead or stuck pixels, mine has 3, very annoying and I hope Valve RMA’s mine.
Hmmmm not noticed any on mine had it a week but not done any pixel tests.
Dead pixels on an OLED screen stick out like a sore thumb
Did you get the limited edition?
I have the 512gb version and I have no dead pixels. It's a beautiful display.
Very very nice guide. It has convinced me to be happy with the stock SSD.
😂
6:24: Wouldn't it be easier to disconnect the ZIF connector on the left and fold the shield to the right?
I tried that but it wouldn’t come out easily so I stopped.
@@TonyCassara You have to lift the little lever up and pulling the cable should be easy then.
Great video. So helpful! But this did help so thank you also!
I just used the case to store the screws. It has a couple of recesses, good for separating the different types of screws.
Definitely do not over tighten screws on PCB boards in compact units like this. The PCB can take heat fine, but the metal of the screw expands when heat rises from use, and that small amount on a tight screw can crack your board or drive.
Why not disconnect the ribbon cable from the connector it's attached to on the board labeled "R"? Feel like you're more prone to damaging that cable by accidently yanking it by holding that heat shield up vs disconnecting it and flipping the heatshield over on top of the fan to give you the space you need to replace the SSD.
Exactly why I came here to write 😂👍🏻
You are right. I switched the 512GB drive of my steam deck oled 1 hour ago and it very easy to unplug this cable.
because he is an amateur
This. It's very frustrating that no Steam Deck OLED teardowns show this ribbon being disconnected, even iFixit's just magically had the cable disappear between steps. It's one of those zero insertion force connectors that you just flip up, easy enough to do but nobody shows it!
@@me2olive Most people aren't familiar with those types of connection and would rather not touch it. They are easy but can be a pita at the same time depending on the angle (in general). But yah, they could maybe add in a "you can do it this way as well" part showing it, I guess.
You can fix that stripped screw with epoxy resin. A very small amount of it injected into the thread, use a tiny drill after it sets to give it a center. Then reseat your screw to make new threads. Lot of tutorials out there on how to do it that might be worth looking at. It is not a fun process though.
You are awesome sir thank you!!
You can disconnect the ribbon cable towards the left and absolutely should. Makes everything way easier.
awsome video for preparing for new Oled 🎉
Great thanks in no rush to upgrade my oled will wait a one yeah and buy a 2tb SSD for cheaper hopefully, £180 is bit much now like a 4tb SSD really have massive amount of Steam games.
yeah the cost of the cheap oled plus the 2tb ssd is about the same as the cost for the 1tb oled which is funny as hell🤣🤣🤣
great video, keep the good work up !!!
RE: “unplug the ribbon cable first” - there’s another wire hot glued to the bottom of the backplate and by unplugging the ribbon cable you’re increasing the potential for added force on that remaining wire. By keeping both you’ll spread force evenly between them and have a very obvious reminder not to push it!
It wasn't hot glued on mine, just taped to the bottom of the shield, and the little piece of tape was easy to unstick after I'd disconnected the ribbon from one side. You're far more likely to damage a ribbon cable twisting and wrestling with it like this than just disconnecting one end, it has a zero insertion force connector that you just flip up.
@@me2olive just swapped my SSD it wasn't hot glued for me either just gently lifted that shied up after unplugging the ribbon cable and the tape released very easy. this video looks way more of a hassle that it needs to be
Interesting maybe the newer models are being built without the glue. In which case it's probably worth unplugging the ribbon cable.
4:20 DO NOT "work around it", disconnect the battery connector properly! The small "C-R" cable on the bottom left with the white clamp, just flip the white tab then gently pull the cable out, you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery when you are working on devices. Once you are done you can easily slot it back in and flip down the clamp again to secure the cable.
5:09 Yes you do but NOT FROM THERE, disconnect the left connector which connects it to the motherboard, that's why the clamp is there. That is WAY EASIER than what he's doing.
If you disconnect the battery properly you can fold back the shield completely off the Steam Deck, making it MUCH easier to access the M.2 slot.
The way he's installing the SteamOS image is wrong too, it's WAY easier to get a USB-C drive (or one of those combo USB-A/USB-C drives), then use RUFUS (or another image installer), download the image file from the Steam website and install from the USB drive, that will also be WAY faster than using an SDCard.
Thanks for this; very much appreciated!
Asked on the Steam Deck subreddit as I couldn't find a proper guide for swapping SSD on the OLED yet and only got downvoted!
People on the SD subreddit are a little cranky sometimes 😅
Hi there, really nice video, thanks for sharing
I’m wondering do i need to adjust the file format in the new ssd? And How about the max capacity?
Thank you!
Unplug the ribbon cable and take the entire shield with the cable attached and set it on the battery so you dont have to keep juggling the shield and SSD.
great video. Thank you.
Awesome! A++ Brother
No need to pull battery if you already disabled in bios.
Just upgradeed my oled with a 2tb ssd
There is only 2 screws that hold down the heat plate.
The third screw that was removed last in this video actuality fastens a portion of the mobo down
Ah good to know thanks for sharing that!
thank u.
That’s easy af! I’m just gonna use an sr card tho lols still too scared to take my first steamdeck apart! Thank you for showing me how to though bro!
SD Card is way slower than a SSD.
You're getting a worse experience.
@@PSYCHOV3N0Mfrom what I’ve seen and read on others experience using an self card on the deck, it really doesn’t make a difference. Especially if you’re not playing Moderna AAA tittles off of it.
I have a genuine question:
1)If i choose the 64gb Steam deck and then swap the 64 to 2tb, will my steam deck function like normal? Meaning no crash or slow or any malfunction whatsoever?
2)How to get the 2tb to swap with the 64gb? Like can someone recommended where to purchase it? Along with the tool kits that the guy used to open the back of the steam?
3)Do i have to install windows/linux on my steam dec? But i wanna install windows.Idk why. perhaps i could watch utube? or maybe spotify😭🤦
Hello, does performing this upgrade void the warranty?
You know you can just clone the drive if you have two usb nvme adapters? If you use the right software you can resize partitions to fit.
When I tried to pull out the battery plug using the tab, the transparent part of the pulling aid came out of the plug. I then pinned it off with a flat tool. I hope it's no problem. I'm afraid I've damaged something. Tomorrow the SSD will arrive and I can test it. Opening it was child's play with the ifixit tool it took 4 seconds. Why can't everything just work like in the ifixit instructions? I only saw your video afterwards.
hello i wanted to know if i do the reimage on the sd card can i still swap out the reimage sd card with a brand new sd card for increase storage or do i have to keep the reimage sd card in the steam deck for it to work?
After you’ve recovered the SteamOS image you can remove the SD card / usb drive because your SSD will now have SteamOS installed on it. Thanks for the question!
I want to put the old ssd on the oled. But I am worried it will be formatted. May I skip that part?
@@TonyCassara and formatting the ssd is necessary even if u don’t mind re downloading all of ur games u had on the factory hard drive that we remove ? Like I can’t just switch to my 2tb ssd and then start re downloading the games I had . I don’t have an sd card just the 2tb ssd?
Why didn’t you just remove the ribbon cable from the motherboard?
It wouldn’t come off easily so I gave uo
Great guide, I was just wondering, have you tried the "loosen two screws" fix for the audio hiss? I read you can just slightly loosen the two screws on the audioboard to fix the issue.
Yeah I have another vid about it here: th-cam.com/video/XuCFw-gfhlA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Y3J7fOsulEfuGY1T
i added DIN125A m2 washer under 2 audio board screws. Completely eliminated the hiss.
omg back from the dead!
💀 😂
Hey sir loved the video, however during the clone process i keep getting an error code after entering the sudo pwd I keep getting error no space left error reading code /dev/sda ?? I am so lost, ive tried restarting and everything. Im trying to clone my 512steam deck oled to a 2tb mp600 corsair ssd and using a sabrent enclosure
step 1: Remove Micro SD card
step 2: remove SD bnackplate
step 3: please, LEAVE the ribbon cable glued to the APU shield/plate, trying to remove the ribbon equals risking tearing the thin cable even with its protective layer.
i tried removing it but refrained due to fear of tearing. it takes an awful lot of force. its REALLY glued down to stay there. unless the ribbon is already cooked, leave it.
step 4: (THIS IS OPTIONAL) you could release the ribbon cable from its connector on the left-hand side closest to the shield.
after this you can carefully fold the ribbon cable WITHOUT force onto the right side, give you a little more 'working space'.
do be very careful when unlocking the ribbon connector to remove the cable, as these connectors are fragile. too much force can break the lever.
Your video was not out before I did this. I say if we removed the cord on the case and press the glue back onto the case, is there anything I should look out for because I did open up the little white flap and took the cord out and put it back in correctly.
So is there any issues I should look out for because of moving the cable
You’re probably fine 👍
@@TonyCassara also a small thing I witnessed on the steam deck oled limited edition there is one pixel on the top right on my system I tried contacting valve They told me they won’t take the system back for RMA but they might consider after I use the system for 30 days
@@TonyCassara thanks
Just got my rma back had a heart attack thought they upgraded me but me internals while still being the old model
This is the one thing valve could have done better by making the steam deck upgradable like the ps5. Or even make the system drive more userfriendly swapable.
If i swap my 1tb in to my oled do i need to do any formatting or anything at all or should it just work? And also if i put the 512gb in my in my LCD steam deck should it be fine?
Update it to the latest SteamOS before doing that. 512 might not be backward compatible
Those aren't hard drives, those are SSDs at worst (NVME at best), though M.2 drive would be the best description;
Hard Drive describes a rotating platter drive, which are antiquated for most use-case in modernity.
SSD is the best description seeing as how that's the type of storage being used.
M.2 is nothing more than a form factor.
No, it isn't actually;
NVME drives ARE NOT SSDs, nor are they interchangeable with them in a number of cases;
M.2 slots, with storage in mind, are keyed for two form-factors, M key & B key;
M key are utilized for NVME drives and utilize PCIe X2 or X4 modes presently.
B key is used for SSDs.
I got a question, if i have the 2 tb with the files of the LCD Steam deck that one can be used in the oled? Or i have to reinstall everything and reimage Steam OS?
You need to update it to the latest Preview Steam OS before swapping it in!
@@TonyCassara thanks sir!
Hey quick question.
Do you use wired earbuds plugged into 3.5mm jack on your deck?
If you do, do hear a constant static noise coming through the earbuds?
I have tried 3 different wired earbuds on my steam deck oled, and I hear a constant static noise with all 3.
Yes I have buzzing with sensitive IEMs also. I use a dongle called the ifi IEMatch that eliminates noise so I can’t hear it normally but I’ve read it might be a driver issue also. I’ll investigate, if it’s a driver issue I’ll make a quick video.
@@TonyCassara Thanks for getting back to me. I’ll look up the dongle you mentioned. I hope it’s a software issue.
@@TonyCassarathis sounds like you’re an audio nerd as well? :) Will try with my u12t when I am back home. The ifi dongles are always nice, but honestly a lot of devices just have an extremely bad headphone jack. If you don’t need to charge at the same time a USB C to 3.5mm DAC dongle might be better if supported. The Apple one performs extremely well for the price. Will try this out as well.
@@Trojanischer_Eseldude u12t are legendary ive got the custom version a12t! the apple dongle is the best price and so rock solid but i adore my questyle m15 the sound is SO good very warm and deep bass.
@@TonyCassara Wow! Now I’m jealous. I couldn’t justify the price for the custom version, since I got a pretty good deal for the universal one second hand. I feel like the Apple Dongle might be great as a recommendation for everyone. Also I think I would prefer the smaller formfactor for the Deck. I have to look into the Questyle for music listening though :) I own the Qudelix 5K, not sure how they would compare.
Can I just put SSD from my LCD Steam Deck to OLED without formatting and re-installing SteamOS?
Absolutely yes!
@@TonyCassara and if I don’t have an sd card. Just my new 2tb ssd then I can just do the swap and re download the games that I want without the whole formatting , reimagine process? Basically just plug and play?
@@TonyCassara How long should the deck take to come back on in this case. Mines stuck on the steam logo after swapping out the ssd with a 2 tb I had in the LCD model.
@@nevanpeck3105 did you update to the latest SteamOS before swapping it in? the "Preview" build? If not you'll need to swap it back and do that otherwise the latest firmware wont be supported. you can read more here: www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/17wt6d1/anyone_know_if_itll_be_possible_to_pop_a_ssd_from/
@@LaymanGaminno you have to format a new SSD regardless :( you can do it with a USB-C thumb drive or SD card, up to you!
Will this void my warranty?
Does performance increase with this or is the main advantage more room for more games?
Performance can increase slightly when it comes to load times but it’s mostly a storage upgrade.
just seeing this makes my hand sweat. it seems simple, but a $900 device like this make you not want to rush anything. I'm gonna wear a glove when I do this, and purchase literally every tool possible, because i would be too scared otherwise.
You couldn’t adjust the camera angle for the metal shield
It's not the Steam Deck you have to necessarily worry about damaging, but the Micro SD card.
Is it possible to get normal ssd , the big one that cheaper and faster with an adapter
Too big gets really hot too, you can force one in but risky.
And how the adapter will made the bigger ssd smaller? I'd love to see that.
No it won’t work because the SSD points to the bottom of the case and the longer NVME drive wouldn’t fit. I’ve seen people do some crazy stuff like right angle adapters but it’s just not worth it when SSDs are so cheap right now.
@dud1n its work watch on video by rog ally it's fit perfectly in it
@@steveaustin8086ROG Ally doesn't have OLED.
🤣🤣🤣
why cant valve just do like sony and have a port cover to swap the ssd. i was hoping it would be more like changing drive on pc
Brother my units sounds like a 2 stroke while playing the new GTA, can u make how to run low noise plz
Check out my other video: th-cam.com/video/oIpePqUcmzI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4ZEOEpJbD9J4W14r
Do I need the SD card for it to work? And what if I don't have a computer?
Educate yourself on some basic knowledge of computers. Learn to use Google
@@UmVtCg thanks for the help dummy
No you don't need a SD card to change the SSD, you need a USB C drive to load back Steam OS.
@@spike178 thanks
My battery won’t unplug it’s so frickin difficult and won’t budge!
I get all the first part but I want to know on the files part, I wish you had showed it and how that part is done, I am afriad to mess up my steam deck, been waiting for someoen to show me on the files part because you ahve to put in the program back itno the asteam deck so please can you show us next time that part.
I will make a separate video, thanks for the feedback! For now check the link in the description the instructions are pretty good but they don’t show you step by step.
@@TonyCassaraYeah same! The portion where it’s a brand new SSD. Formatting etc.
Hey good video but my back was sweating. You could have made your life so much easier by disconnecting the ribbon cable from the daughter board. By not doing so you run the risk of damaging or completely ripping it. This is very easy to remove just lift up the white tab holding the cable down and lift the up at a slight angle and pull it free the socket. As long as you take your time you make swapping the ssd drive a whole lot easier for yourself.
There's videos on TH-cam on how to install Steam OS on your new SSD.
@@shaneybaby it’s glued down. U just can’t see it in the video. Ribbon cable can’t be removed .
Everrry timew he said haird driive insted of SSD I tookl a shot of tequila
What's a haird drive ?
Huh I always thought it was like a square / rectangle situation where a square is a rectangle but a rectangle isn’t always a square. Turns out SSD and Hard Drive are mutually exclusive terms. Hope the hangover wasn’t too bad!
@@TonyCassarabro thanks for the vid . Some people u can’t please. F em
Is AliExpress reliable for the SSD?
Totally mine was great, just check the store and reviews.
🤦🏽♂️ calling SSD a hard drive… 😂 it is Solid State Drive. Not hard drive. 😂 Thank you for the tutorial on how to upgrade SSD in the Oled.
One thing I hate about this video is the constant camera change, keep it on one angle
After doing this, the Steam Deck stopped to read the micro SD Card, help
Try opening it up and making sure you reconnected everything correctly.
After that make sure the SD card isn’t dead by plugging it in somewhere else.
After that, contact Valve for help.
Alil express is really that trust worthy with ssds ?
The battery should be under 20%. It's actually kinda dangerous to do it with a charged battery, it could explode.
You can unclip the ribbon cable on each side. Makes it a lot easier to remove the metal piece.
Also, an SSD is not technically a hard drive.
So I need a computer for this to work?
No, not if you have a case you can put the new SSD in to connect it to the Steam Deck via USB C. This way you can clone the „old“ internal SSD including the operating system to your new one first through desktop mode. After that you can swap them out. This is how I did it, worked flawlessly.
EDIT: well I just realized if you don’t have other data on your old SSD, you can just create the recovery image on the Steam Deck itself beforehand. You just need a USB C drive this way.
@@Trojanischer_Eselthis will be my first steam deck so nothing to clone
Do yourself a favor and UNZIP the file from Steam. It's zipped in a weird format and wouldn't image for me.
Why dont you just unplug that ribbon cable on the left? Its more risky doing it your way imo...
There’s a cable glued to the bottom of the backplate either way it’s not coming off
Alrighty... didnt see that...@@TonyCassara
*hard drive 🤦♂️
Exactly... 🤣🤣🤣
Why tf did they make it this complicated? That ribbon cable is gonna rip so easily
I wish I knew, I don’t think they would do it for no reason but it’s definitely harder than before now to replace the SSD.
I wish I knew, I don’t think they would do it for no reason but it’s definitely harder than before now to replace the SSD.
Magnetic screw holder?
The things people buy now are just silly.
Use a cheap refrigerator magnet under your paper plate.
Too fucking shit to do, was watching cause i'm planning to buy the 1to steam deck oled and i wanted to put a screen protector but apparently that degrade the quality or it's horrible whatever. But honestly i'll see, don't wanna risk myself in that hard risky switch of ssd
Oh man, this is definitely something I'd rather pay someone to do; I can install ram and graphics cards, that's about it. I'm assuming this voids the warranty?
Uncertain so if you don’t feel safe don’t do it! Find a friend or iPhone repair company in your area and ask them to do it.
@TonyCassara Thanks. I'll worry about it if it comes to it but I'm fine with the idea of sd cards for now.
@@robertlefeauxI'm pretty sure it does NOT void the warranty. Otherwise, they wouldn't let you upgrade your own storage.
@PSYCHOV3N0M I don't think that's a fair comparison, since the other method of upgrading storage is just slipping a card into the micro card slot. Some places are more lenient with their warranties, and it's quite common for one to be voided by merely removing a back plate, even if you don't touch anything inside.
Wheres you fork and spoon? Really???? In the kitchen with a plate?
How easy it is on the ally x puts this to shame..
The L4 switch fell off my left trigger board and Steam will not repair under warranty. Obviously there is no way to apply enough force on the switch to dislodge it. So shame on Steam!!!
Did it happen during the SSD swap? Was it the new OLED model?
It's not a hard drive it's a SSD
Using the term “hard drive” is a perfectly acceptable colloquialism to refer to both an HDD and SSD. What we consider “hard” in the HDD terminology is arbitrary, since we could equally refer to the storage in solid state drives as “hard” as well.
There are still a large contingent of legacy users who aren’t familiar with the correct nomenclature of mainstream hardware.
It’s also totally futile and unnecessary to correct what can be gleaned via context.
TLDR; don’t be a knob.
If you're going to be a stickler be more correct... it's not an SSD, it's a NVMe.
It's a file storage device 😂
Shut up nerd
It’s gif not gif
Stop calling it a hard drive.
Steam Deck uses a solid state drive.
Hard drives are mechanical, they have moving parts, they're much slower, and they make noise.
Solid state drives are much faster, have no moving parts and are completely silent.
Two different things.
Why its so much harder than rog ally ?
Ask Valve
I noticed the same thing it’s a much harder upgrade than the RIG Ally but I think that’s a trade off for having larger SSDs by default. They optimized the build and made it slightly harder to repair.
Wow..They made it very clunky. Rog Ally takes 2 mins to change.