Yes this does increase the unsprung weight BUT it also matters where the weight is. This is exactly in its best spot as the weight is in the centre of the hub. This is different than adding that weight to a tyre where it's on the fastest rotating section. But also on track days if driven consistently I do think it would show an improvement on the 30mm front (15mm x2) and 40mm (20mm x2) track width. Handling should be better at speed when measured. This is why supercars are wider for the track width. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks and yes, weight is much better closer to the center. I would also think that a wider track would help with handling but I have since read that spacers do affect scrub radius - how detrimental this is I'm not sure.
On my Model Y the 15mm spacers allowed too much of the OEM wheel stud to stick through and they were hitting the 20 inch wheels on the backside. I ordered some 18mm. The rear was fine with 20mm. Great video thanks.
In the future, you should really set up your jack perpendicular to the car and not at an angle. That is not safe at all. However, using the safety jack does help significantly. I'm mainly pointing out good and bad habits. Always perpendicular to the car.
Adding spacers move the fulcrum point farther away from the bearings. This is why they could cause premature wear on the bearings. A wheel with a more aggressive off set moves the tire farther out while maintaining the factory fulcrum point in relation to the bearings
If the center of the tire moves further from the bearings, the fulcrum point changes - this seems to be true for both spacers and wheel offsets. I'm not seeing a difference here.
@@mmark300 not true. It has nothing to do with the location of the center of the tire. You have: bearing ] hub [ wheel…Illustrated like ][🛞. The fulcrum point is located between the hub and wheel. Now by adding a spacer you have bearing ] hub ] spacer - wheel 🛞: illustrated like this: ][-🛞… now the spacer (-) is the fulcrum point. a properly fitted wheel with a more aggressive offset moves the cent of the tire farther away from the bearing without moving the fulcrum point
@@STICKSHFT So this means it's always bad to use spacers on standard rims. And only good when you use other rims + spacers where the fulcrum point is correct. Right? So if you want the rim to be more flush you always need wider rims in order to keep the fulcrum point correct.
Thanks. I don't remember the measurements off hand but check my MPP install video. I think I lowered it another 20mm from what they recommended and left it there. It is very low and you have to be careful - I go through it in the video.
It's hard to say now because my tires were worn unevenly when my car was stock due to bad alignment from the factory. Since then I had it aligned at stock ride height and again after lowering.
Did you see my review of the mpp coilovers after lowering? There's really no room for anything lower than the batteries. I'd like to put a front lip on but it's just asking to get damaged...
I have a front lip on mine on stock height and it rubs the flooor all the time. I have to angle going into plazas and onto driveways! I can’t imagine being lowered with the front lip
Great video! I have 25mm (1'') lower Eibach springs and H&R spacers 17mm front and 17mm rear on my M3P 2023. with OEM Pirelli tires 235/35/20. Do you think if there will be a tire rubbing if I mont wider tires - 245/35/20? I would really appreciate the advice!
Thanks! The only way to really know is to mount them, but I know that 265's will fit under there, if not wider. It's a matter of getting the offset right with the wheels you have.
Great video. I really wanna see a 0-60 before and after spacers video with a gas powered car. The power build from an electric generated auto is gonna be more powerful in most cases I'm assuming
I've seen conflicting instruction on the Torque spec for the Blox/Bonoss spacers. I've read 104 ft-lbs and I've heard people say to go to the OEM lug spec of 129 ft-lbs. Any opinions on this? I can not second source the 104 ft-lbs anywhere. Seems like Blox hasn't been very forthcoming with a torque spec for their spacer to hub connection.
I’ve purchased those, exactly the same 15mm and 20mm. The person who’s installing them told me today that the front rims rubs on those grey nots threaded and the he cannot install them. Bonoss rep is not responding but I’m afraid they sent me the wrong ones 😭
Thanks for posting, that pry bar trick is clever. Are you lowered on anything? Got a M3P recently and looking to get wheels, maybe eliminate the "need" to run spacers
Thanks - someone else mentioned putting a screwdriver in the cooling vanes of the rotor to stop the turning as it contacts the caliper. Check my other review and DIY videos, I have the MPP adjustable coilovers.
Thanks for sharing this video. Question: I saw the old lugs protruding / sticking out beyond the spacer surface. Would that create problems since the wheel is probably sitting on top of those 5 lugs instead of against the surface of the spacer? I must be missing something or wheel has hollow part for these old lugs? Thanks
Mountain Pass coilovers. Sounds like you need to subscribe as you are missing everything you want to know :) My review of the coilovers - th-cam.com/video/uYv2dSNuyU8/w-d-xo.html How to install the coilovers - th-cam.com/video/OB-bw2K7DmQ/w-d-xo.html
@@mmark300 Not quite sure, but I plan on keeping the 18" aeros anyway so I'm glad you didn't have any issues. Will keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for your time.
Just wondering. I got 2018 M3LR just ordered 265/40 Conti DSW06 for stock 18's. In your opinion......will I need spacers or will that extra tire width fill that fender gap? I do get it tgat rim itself will be in exact place it is now so still quite recessed.
I'm not sure you can get a 265 tire on an 8.5" rim. Max should be 255. I'm also not too sure of the clearance on both sides of the tire at stock offset. With the right offset people are getting 305's in there, so there is room.
Do you feel any issues with leaving spacers on instead of moving into a 18x9.5 flush mounted wheel? I have the 15/20mm on now, look great with Eibac lowering.
I just picked up my 2021 model 3. I feel every crack in the road through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal. Anyone else have this? My steering in my Chevy volt was more relaxing
The higher tire air pressure is probably making it feel this way. Relative to my 2004 Acura TL, the stock model 3 suspension is so much better on so many levels that I didn't really notice what you describe as being annoying.
Yes, something I wasn't aware of. If you track your car you may be able to notice this change in suspension geometry. I am not. Of course, if you track your car, you most likely are on aftermarket wheels anyway. For me, the pros still outweigh the cons.
You purchased the best spacers on the market. Shame you had to buy the bolt on ones because Tesla use studs. The lightweight ones are very noticeable when fitted. Great video 👍Here is my video on them th-cam.com/video/UiTtnJQAi7s/w-d-xo.html
Thin wheel spacers are dangerous and should be avoided. There is not enough meat for that proper sheer load of the lug to support a 4000 lb car. 6061 aluminum is soft and has weak tensile strength. Low sheer load. Might look cool until you lose a wheel on a curve coming up. Save some money and just buy offset rims or buy extended studs and buy actual wheel spacers
@Tesla Mark there literally is wheel spacers that do not have lugs on them. 4 wheeler community have spacers that do not have dedicated lugs just a spacer in essence the install longer wheel studscreates a stronger bond than taking a gamble with a spacer that can sheer because not enough thread meat. Your talking a 4000lb vehicle with lateral G's distributing with passenger weight. Enough videos of spacer failures out there. If you must use one. Get a steel spacer
@@mmark300 the spacers you have are perfectly fine....I plan on going with 20x11 ET-18 squared next year...the wheels are being made....will take a while (wide body)
On paper 10mm would be the max I would go. But if you already have them you could use a ruler to see how far 10 more mm would go. Or better yet, take them off and put some washers on the studs to space them further out, temporarily, just to see what it will look like. I'm hoping to buy some 19" Martians soon...
@@mmark300 Not a bad idea, I might give that a shot. I went with 18s because I found a set for a great price locally, really wanted the 20's but maybe get them another time but the 18s won't look bad when I lower it. The martian wheels do stick out slightly more than the stock wheels.
@@socc3r7k1ng I would love 20s with some 255s but I don't want to deal with the rougher ride quality and heavier wheels and tires... And more risk of ruining the wheels on potholes, etc
@@mmark300 It may really come down to where you live I guess but the forged wheels will def do better on potholes than the cast OEM wheels, would take a lot more force to do similar damage.I'm party concerned with range but I mean for the weight, if the overall height is very similar, at a certain rotational speed I'd have to think the differences may be minimal but I guess there' sonly one way to find out lol. Mine sips on an average 250 Wh/Mile, added some aero and hope to lower soon to counter some of the decreases from the wheels but I was running Aeros with no covers so I don't think there can be too much a difference there aside from the Martians def being lighter and stronger.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W1D5 | Fall | เก็บแต้มของจริง คือวันนี้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EciIAlCXg5k/mqdefault.jpg)
This video completely changed my mind about needing bigger wheels.
Spacers makes a world of difference to the look w stock wheels. Nice video.
Yes this does increase the unsprung weight BUT it also matters where the weight is. This is exactly in its best spot as the weight is in the centre of the hub. This is different than adding that weight to a tyre where it's on the fastest rotating section. But also on track days if driven consistently I do think it would show an improvement on the 30mm front (15mm x2) and 40mm (20mm x2) track width. Handling should be better at speed when measured. This is why supercars are wider for the track width. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks and yes, weight is much better closer to the center. I would also think that a wider track would help with handling but I have since read that spacers do affect scrub radius - how detrimental this is I'm not sure.
Finally a good video on this
Thanks!
Spacers make the car look MUCH better! Well done!
Thank you so much for the video Mark. This is exactly what I was looking for.
On my Model Y the 15mm spacers allowed too much of the OEM wheel stud to stick through and they were hitting the 20 inch wheels on the backside. I ordered some 18mm. The rear was fine with 20mm. Great video thanks.
Nice to see some one in the US gets it right by using metrics on nuts and bolts! ;)
I try
I appreciate that you put the review first and foremost!
I got 20mm front 25 back, looks good
My friend these videos are GREAT!!
Also jam a screw driver btw the rotor slots and it'll hold on the brake caliper. To hold it
Ah, good idea!
Thanks for the honesty. Car does look good
Those are actually really nice stock rims.
In the future, you should really set up your jack perpendicular to the car and not at an angle. That is not safe at all. However, using the safety jack does help significantly. I'm mainly pointing out good and bad habits. Always perpendicular to the car.
Thanks!
You should put the hub caps on and see what kind kWh you’re getting with them on vs without.
Great vid- your model 3 looks clean!
Definitely looks better, great job!
Thanks!
great job! looks so good
Awesome video
Adding spacers move the fulcrum point farther away from the bearings. This is why they could cause premature wear on the bearings. A wheel with a more aggressive off set moves the tire farther out while maintaining the factory fulcrum point in relation to the bearings
If the center of the tire moves further from the bearings, the fulcrum point changes - this seems to be true for both spacers and wheel offsets. I'm not seeing a difference here.
@@mmark300 not true. It has nothing to do with the location of the center of the tire. You have: bearing ] hub [ wheel…Illustrated like ][🛞. The fulcrum point is located between the hub and wheel. Now by adding a spacer you have bearing ] hub ] spacer - wheel 🛞: illustrated like this: ][-🛞… now the spacer (-) is the fulcrum point. a properly fitted wheel with a more aggressive offset moves the cent of the tire farther away from the bearing without moving the fulcrum point
@@STICKSHFT So this means it's always bad to use spacers on standard rims. And only good when you use other rims + spacers where the fulcrum point is correct. Right? So if you want the rim to be more flush you always need wider rims in order to keep the fulcrum point correct.
Looks perfect! Going to go with the same setup. How low is it here?
Thanks. I don't remember the measurements off hand but check my MPP install video. I think I lowered it another 20mm from what they recommended and left it there. It is very low and you have to be careful - I go through it in the video.
Thanks for this video! Have you seen any tire wear issues? I'm thinking about going 18mm/25mm, and alignment.
It's hard to say now because my tires were worn unevenly when my car was stock due to bad alignment from the factory. Since then I had it aligned at stock ride height and again after lowering.
Nice upgrades to get the tasteful and sporty look.
Thanks!
I may have to re think side skirts and a front lip when my model 3 is lowered LOL
Did you see my review of the mpp coilovers after lowering? There's really no room for anything lower than the batteries. I'd like to put a front lip on but it's just asking to get damaged...
@@mmark300 yes I watched the whole thing! Definitely looks mad low!
I have a front lip on mine on stock height and it rubs the flooor all the time. I have to angle going into plazas and onto driveways! I can’t imagine being lowered with the front lip
@@dilrajsingh3607 Its a bummer that there is so much wheel well gap from the factory so we wouldn't have to lower it so much
@@mmark300 right! Do you think wider wheels will help the gap a bit. I know it’s not lowering it but maybe it might look better
How was your range impacted by the spacers?
I didn't notice any difference. It would take pretty careful testing to see the difference
Nice Bro
Been waiting since you mentioned it 🍿
My son's friend just asked me if I got new wheels - these spacers are awesome! Haha!
Great video! I have 25mm (1'') lower Eibach springs and H&R spacers 17mm front and 17mm rear on my M3P 2023. with OEM Pirelli tires 235/35/20.
Do you think if there will be a tire rubbing if I mont wider tires - 245/35/20?
I would really appreciate the advice!
Thanks!
The only way to really know is to mount them, but I know that 265's will fit under there, if not wider. It's a matter of getting the offset right with the wheels you have.
should be fine with that
Great video. I really wanna see a 0-60 before and after spacers video with a gas powered car. The power build from an electric generated auto is gonna be more powerful in most cases I'm assuming
It would be hard to measure - most gas cars have very inconsistent acceleration times.
I've seen conflicting instruction on the Torque spec for the Blox/Bonoss spacers. I've read 104 ft-lbs and I've heard people say to go to the OEM lug spec of 129 ft-lbs. Any opinions on this? I can not second source the 104 ft-lbs anywhere. Seems like Blox hasn't been very forthcoming with a torque spec for their spacer to hub connection.
I don't remember seeing any torque specs for these, so I used the factory 129 ft/lbs and haven't had any issues.
I’ve purchased those, exactly the same 15mm and 20mm. The person who’s installing them told me today that the front rims rubs on those grey nots threaded and the he cannot install them. Bonoss rep is not responding but I’m afraid they sent me the wrong ones 😭
Seems odd. Do you have a long range? What year?
@@mmark300 It’s a 2021 Long Range, Shanghai built. Bonoss proposes me to ship the 18mm for the front…
Nice looking car! Any negative observations in terms of handling or wear now that you’ve done some miles with these spacers installed?
Thanks! No, I haven't found any real negatives to these wheel spacers. Well, I guess the only one is that I didn't do it sooner :)
Does this work on a model y? Also what were the sizes? 20mm and 15mm correct?
Yes, wheel spacers could be used on any car. I used 15mm and 20mm, but I don't know what would look good on the Y.
Thanks for posting, that pry bar trick is clever. Are you lowered on anything? Got a M3P recently and looking to get wheels, maybe eliminate the "need" to run spacers
Thanks - someone else mentioned putting a screwdriver in the cooling vanes of the rotor to stop the turning as it contacts the caliper.
Check my other review and DIY videos, I have the MPP adjustable coilovers.
Set the parking Break
@@adamrucker3268 doesn't work on front brakes
Thanks for sharing this video. Question: I saw the old lugs protruding / sticking out beyond the spacer surface. Would that create problems since the wheel is probably sitting on top of those 5 lugs instead of against the surface of the spacer? I must be missing something or wheel has hollow part for these old lugs? Thanks
The lugs sticking out don't interfere with 18" tesla wheels or my new 19" non tesla wheels.
How did you lower the car? Springs, coilover? If so what are your driving impressions wrt to handling?
Mountain Pass coilovers. Sounds like you need to subscribe as you are missing everything you want to know :)
My review of the coilovers - th-cam.com/video/uYv2dSNuyU8/w-d-xo.html
How to install the coilovers - th-cam.com/video/OB-bw2K7DmQ/w-d-xo.html
Just wondering if you had any issues with the front 15mm spacer not fitting right due to the factory studs hitting the back of the oem wheels
No, no issues.
@@mmark300 Good to know. What year is your Tesla? I have heard of others not being able to use the 15mm up front. Car looks good by the way!!
@@mellowcmb1 Thanks.
Mine is a 2018. Are they having issues with the 19" wheels maybe?
@@mmark300 Not quite sure, but I plan on keeping the 18" aeros anyway so I'm glad you didn't have any issues. Will keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for your time.
Hi, do you have lowering springs on in this video in addition to the spacers?
Yes, please check out my install video th-cam.com/video/OB-bw2K7DmQ/w-d-xo.html and other review video.
Just wondering. I got 2018 M3LR just ordered 265/40 Conti DSW06 for stock 18's. In your opinion......will I need spacers or will that extra tire width fill that fender gap? I do get it tgat rim itself will be in exact place it is now so still quite recessed.
I'm not sure you can get a 265 tire on an 8.5" rim. Max should be 255.
I'm also not too sure of the clearance on both sides of the tire at stock offset. With the right offset people are getting 305's in there, so there is room.
Is it safe to have someone opening the door, getting in the car, to hold the brake while installing the front?
It's a little risky, but easier and safer would be to put a screwdriver into the cooling vanes of the rotor to keep it from turning.
What about putting the parking brake on?
Do you feel any issues with leaving spacers on instead of moving into a 18x9.5 flush mounted wheel? I have the 15/20mm on now, look great with Eibac lowering.
No issues so far and after doing alot of reading about them, I'm not expecting any.
Is that 15/20mm per corner or overall (i.e. 7.5/10mm), please?
I just picked up my 2021 model 3. I feel every crack in the road through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal. Anyone else have this? My steering in my Chevy volt was more relaxing
The higher tire air pressure is probably making it feel this way. Relative to my 2004 Acura TL, the stock model 3 suspension is so much better on so many levels that I didn't really notice what you describe as being annoying.
What is your tint around the car? Do you have any on the front windshield?
Sorry I can't remember the tint % all around but yes the windshield is tinted with the lowest level.
what are you using to time your 0-60's?
Dragy
Does it affect extra sound you hear within the vehicle.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but they do not make the car more noisy.
What percentage are your windows tinted to?
What about wheel tracking/ alignment??
It shouldn't affect the alignment as the basic angles have not changed. It's like changing wheels with a different offset.
Cons: scrub radius changed?
Yes, something I wasn't aware of. If you track your car you may be able to notice this change in suspension geometry. I am not. Of course, if you track your car, you most likely are on aftermarket wheels anyway.
For me, the pros still outweigh the cons.
You purchased the best spacers on the market. Shame you had to buy the bolt on ones because Tesla use studs. The lightweight ones are very noticeable when fitted. Great video 👍Here is my video on them th-cam.com/video/UiTtnJQAi7s/w-d-xo.html
Does affect the warranty of tesla ?
No - it's like putting new wheels on.
Any idea if the fit is different on a M3P on the front?
I know the spacers will fit, but the offsets will most likely be different as they don't have the same wheels.
How low is you car at this time??
Still the same as in this video.
Spacer manufacturer torque specs are 103.5 ft lbs. 129 is Tesla spec. You did 129 for both?
Mine didn't provide specs so I used the Tesla wheel torque specs, 129 ft/lbs, for both the spacers and wheels.
Thin wheel spacers are dangerous and should be avoided. There is not enough meat for that proper sheer load of the lug to support a 4000 lb car. 6061 aluminum is soft and has weak tensile strength. Low sheer load. Might look cool until you lose a wheel on a curve coming up. Save some money and just buy offset rims or buy extended studs and buy actual wheel spacers
What's the difference between the spacers in this video and real wheel spacers?
@Tesla Mark there literally is wheel spacers that do not have lugs on them. 4 wheeler community have spacers that do not have dedicated lugs just a spacer in essence the install longer wheel studscreates a stronger bond than taking a gamble with a spacer that can sheer because not enough thread meat. Your talking a 4000lb vehicle with lateral G's distributing with passenger weight. Enough videos of spacer failures out there. If you must use one. Get a steel spacer
@James Sepulveda I have seen 4x4 large spacer failures but none for passenger cars. Can't say that I've looked real hard though...
@@mmark300 the spacers you have are perfectly fine....I plan on going with 20x11 ET-18 squared next year...the wheels are being made....will take a while (wide body)
So the martian wheels are a +35 offset vs a +40 offset for the same 18x8.5" in Aeros, so do you think 15/20mm would work or should I go for a 10/15mm?
On paper 10mm would be the max I would go. But if you already have them you could use a ruler to see how far 10 more mm would go. Or better yet, take them off and put some washers on the studs to space them further out, temporarily, just to see what it will look like.
I'm hoping to buy some 19" Martians soon...
@@mmark300 Not a bad idea, I might give that a shot. I went with 18s because I found a set for a great price locally, really wanted the 20's but maybe get them another time but the 18s won't look bad when I lower it. The martian wheels do stick out slightly more than the stock wheels.
@@socc3r7k1ng I would love 20s with some 255s but I don't want to deal with the rougher ride quality and heavier wheels and tires...
And more risk of ruining the wheels on potholes, etc
@@mmark300 It may really come down to where you live I guess but the forged wheels will def do better on potholes than the cast OEM wheels, would take a lot more force to do similar damage.I'm party concerned with range but I mean for the weight, if the overall height is very similar, at a certain rotational speed I'd have to think the differences may be minimal but I guess there' sonly one way to find out lol. Mine sips on an average 250 Wh/Mile, added some aero and hope to lower soon to counter some of the decreases from the wheels but I was running Aeros with no covers so I don't think there can be too much a difference there aside from the Martians def being lighter and stronger.
8 lbs of unstrung weight is never good. Engineers go out of their way to reduce unstrung weight. 05:20 car locks
Then why are stock wheels always so heavy? Engineers go for safety first and that means heavy solid wheels.