@WOLFTICK VIDEOS if you are ever in the state of Virginia your should look up Pocahontas State Park its about 15 mins from me and has quite a bit of trails. I am going to check them out not this weekend but the following weekend.
The term you were looking for is that Ragnarok is mostly "off camber" Which makes it a good trail for testing tyres. Something like a Minion or Magic Mary would be good as they have more, as you say " side knobbage." As someone who rides 1 finger braking all the time, even with cable brakes. Always set the reach when you set the lever position on the bar, as it does make a difference. From your set up in the video, you want to move the levers in more. You want your finger to be pulling on the hook at the end of the lever, with your index finger at about 5 past 12 when covering the brake. Also, you can adjust the lever reach closer to the bar without fowling on your index finger when you pull the brake on. Makes covering the brakes much more comfortable.
17:02 You need to bed in the brakes properly every time. Get up to speed, then brake not gently brake and let off the brake, repeat until the brakes bite properly. This assures whole rotor is properly bedded in.
That little stub of metal is a good thing as it braces the lever. I wonder about those pads, if they’re semi metallic they need warming up to work best…. Main reason I like resin pads although they’re ultimately less powerful.
14:52 I see a gap between the adapter and the brake mount post, that's bad. I don't know if the adapter or the posts are the issue. There should not be a gap there, all must be flush. A common problem on frames is paint overspray, uneven, misaligned surface, so need to be faced, but with a quality frame you don't get that, same with a quality fork. But I don't know if any of that is the issue here.
If the bottle bosses in your seattube are blocking the seatpost going down, drill then out, then cover over the holes. If you cut your seatpost short to get it to drop down, you won't have enough on the bike when you raise the saddle. Then you'll risk cracking the toptube. Been there, learnt the lesson, luckily warrantied.
You've probably got a muscadine grape vine growing on the tree. Careful, because there's a look-alike called Canada Moonseed. Muscadine leaves are serrated, moonseed leaves aren’t. Muscadine grapes also have around 4 smaller seeds. If the fruits have one big crescent shaped seed, watch out! Canada moonseed will put you into convulsions. Muscadine grapes are safe.
10:30 the thing I actually hate about my Shimano M6100 brakes is that extra little piece that rests on the handlebar. It made it so I couldn't mount my shifter close enough to the grips. I ended up having to buy a different shifter that mounts to the actual brake lever and now that made the shifter too close to my grips and feels a bit awkward. No happy median with these M6100 brakes unfortunately.
Just my observation, pulling the leverl should be closest to your knuckle for better leverage and easier to control. If the lever pull is closer to the tips of your finger, it will harder to pull and that's why it seems like 2 finger is necessary but actually now. I think most of use when we started, we pull from the middle part of our index finger, but once you get use to pulling close to your knuckle, it's going to be easier.
i wonder if these brakes have bearings on the lever blade pivots. It sure looks like it. so that will be great in the long run. as bearings last a long time. but if they are bad bearings you could swap it for good ones. Bearings give a smooth action. So this brake lever design looks promising, seems to be metal parts all over, no plastic silliness.
I am comcerned about long-term servicing of these. Whether you gonna get spare parts like pistons, gaskets from this company. And what about the key wrench for the bore nuts? With all these knock offs like zrace, iiipro, oniri and alike, a shimano bb preload nut key or magura's bore nut key will work and they are easy to get.
Hey guys, can anyone tell me what type of pad do these brakes use? I bought them and would like to buy at least one extra pair. It seems that the ones they use are the same as Shimano BR-M810/M820 or Deore XT BR-M8020?
Look like nice brakes, for the price. May not want to eat those "grapes". Grapes grow on vines so I hope, if you eat those things(?), you are close to the can and not far from a hospital.
it could be the spacer/adapter that isn't cut to the right angle. I just had a problem a few days ago when building a winter bike. I threw on a pair of MT200s with a 140mm to 180mm adaptor. The top edge of the rotor was actually bottoming out on the inside of caliper. I thought the brake rotor was bent so i bought a new brake rotor , installed it and the same thing happened, the brakes sounded like they were rubbing really bad. I finally noticed a bunch of aluminum dust on the brake caliper and after removing the brake caliper noticed a gouge in the top of it. To remedy that I just added a washer in between the caliper and adapter and now they work perfect. Long story short, that shouldn't have happened. The adapter was supposed to be 140mm to 180mm and it should have fit perfect but it didn't and was about 1mm too short in height. So if Jeremiah is using a cheap adapter then it could just be the adapter isn't cut right.
Modulation is a big deal cuz you're not really using the brakes just to stop oh, well I don't anyway I setup for turns using the brakes it only works if they don't lock up!
I believe that if u manage to get a 180 mm rotor in the rear you will be more pleased with the brake's performance, also, some performance oriented tires would go a long way, more grip means more brake power being able to be used
I don't think that's a Grape. As grapes grow like vines and not as a tree. And when they do grow, they are in bunches and not individually berry/Grape. Just don't eat it if you don't know what it is.
Last time I ate something in the woods, i took a trip.
As far as I know Grape is a vine lol
It's not like they made a really famous song about a really popular saying stating exactly that fact...
@WOLFTICK VIDEOS if you are ever in the state of Virginia your should look up Pocahontas State Park its about 15 mins from me and has quite a bit of trails. I am going to check them out not this weekend but the following weekend.
It’s a Muscadine. Got some growing on a vine that climbed a tree in my back yard. Sweet sour taste.
The term you were looking for is that Ragnarok is mostly "off camber" Which makes it a good trail for testing tyres. Something like a Minion or Magic Mary would be good as they have more, as you say " side knobbage." As someone who rides 1 finger braking all the time, even with cable brakes. Always set the reach when you set the lever position on the bar, as it does make a difference. From your set up in the video, you want to move the levers in more. You want your finger to be pulling on the hook at the end of the lever, with your index finger at about 5 past 12 when covering the brake. Also, you can adjust the lever reach closer to the bar without fowling on your index finger when you pull the brake on. Makes covering the brakes much more comfortable.
13:20 Tip: if it's regular gopro mount thumb screw thing, use a screwdriver to tighten the bolts. then it will stay in place.
Finally caught up😂
Nice review and impressive brakes for the money. Would love to see a comparison of the brakes youve reviewed.
Take care guys 👍🍻😎
Grape tree lol 🍇🌴
And advant x 10 speed and the trace 34 fork on that bike would rock.
17:02 You need to bed in the brakes properly every time. Get up to speed, then brake not gently brake and let off the brake, repeat until the brakes bite properly. This assures whole rotor is properly bedded in.
That little stub of metal is a good thing as it braces the lever. I wonder about those pads, if they’re semi metallic they need warming up to work best…. Main reason I like resin pads although they’re ultimately less powerful.
14:52 I see a gap between the adapter and the brake mount post, that's bad. I don't know if the adapter or the posts are the issue. There should not be a gap there, all must be flush.
A common problem on frames is paint overspray, uneven, misaligned surface, so need to be faced, but with a quality frame you don't get that, same with a quality fork. But I don't know if any of that is the issue here.
If the bottle bosses in your seattube are blocking the seatpost going down, drill then out, then cover over the holes.
If you cut your seatpost short to get it to drop down, you won't have enough on the bike when you raise the saddle. Then you'll risk cracking the toptube. Been there, learnt the lesson, luckily warrantied.
You've probably got a muscadine grape vine growing on the tree. Careful, because there's a look-alike called Canada Moonseed. Muscadine leaves are serrated, moonseed leaves aren’t. Muscadine grapes also have around 4 smaller seeds. If the fruits have one big crescent shaped seed, watch out! Canada moonseed will put you into convulsions. Muscadine grapes are safe.
They are nice calipers this for sure!
10:30 the thing I actually hate about my Shimano M6100 brakes is that extra little piece that rests on the handlebar. It made it so I couldn't mount my shifter close enough to the grips. I ended up having to buy a different shifter that mounts to the actual brake lever and now that made the shifter too close to my grips and feels a bit awkward. No happy median with these M6100 brakes unfortunately.
Just my observation, pulling the leverl should be closest to your knuckle for better leverage and easier to control. If the lever pull is closer to the tips of your finger, it will harder to pull and that's why it seems like 2 finger is necessary but actually now. I think most of use when we started, we pull from the middle part of our index finger, but once you get use to pulling close to your knuckle, it's going to be easier.
Looks like these may be a good option for the price. Great stuff
i wonder if these brakes have bearings on the lever blade pivots. It sure looks like it. so that will be great in the long run. as bearings last a long time. but if they are bad bearings you could swap it for good ones. Bearings give a smooth action. So this brake lever design looks promising, seems to be metal parts all over, no plastic silliness.
Didn't see this video when it first came out cuz I was off riding Six Mile Trail were there was supposed to be a bear. Didn't see it either!
The rear caliper only one side of the piston is moving. Maybe the rotor isnt central that's why it got really hot.
I am comcerned about long-term servicing of these. Whether you gonna get spare parts like pistons, gaskets from this company. And what about the key wrench for the bore nuts? With all these knock offs like zrace, iiipro, oniri and alike, a shimano bb preload nut key or magura's bore nut key will work and they are easy to get.
I went on the titan brake site online and there is no way to order those brakes off of that site?
Grape Tree. Lmao 😅
What brakes would you recommend more the e4 brakes or this brake In the video
The link to these doesn't show how to purchase these. Where can we buy these? Are they on Amazon?
So you would say these are a lot better than the stock ones
Hey guys, can anyone tell me what type of pad do these brakes use? I bought them and would like to buy at least one extra pair. It seems that the ones they use are the same as Shimano BR-M810/M820 or Deore XT BR-M8020?
I see the link to brakes but can't seem to find out how to order lol
I think they are muscadine
Pick enough grapes and make wine.
Probably something like a huckberry could very well be poisonous.
4:50 I should call her 😢
He’s a back door man 😮😅
Haha didn't know what to say
Turn the rear QR the other way, towards the back of the bike or straight up
barrel ajuster bro
Look like nice brakes, for the price.
May not want to eat those "grapes". Grapes grow on vines so I hope, if you eat those things(?), you are close to the can and not far from a hospital.
Grapes don’t grow on trees! Lol they grow on a vine
fork mounts need to be faced you can see they are not flat to the spacers.
it could be the spacer/adapter that isn't cut to the right angle. I just had a problem a few days ago when building a winter bike. I threw on a pair of MT200s with a 140mm to 180mm adaptor. The top edge of the rotor was actually bottoming out on the inside of caliper. I thought the brake rotor was bent so i bought a new brake rotor , installed it and the same thing happened, the brakes sounded like they were rubbing really bad. I finally noticed a bunch of aluminum dust on the brake caliper and after removing the brake caliper noticed a gouge in the top of it. To remedy that I just added a washer in between the caliper and adapter and now they work perfect. Long story short, that shouldn't have happened. The adapter was supposed to be 140mm to 180mm and it should have fit perfect but it didn't and was about 1mm too short in height. So if Jeremiah is using a cheap adapter then it could just be the adapter isn't cut right.
Modulation is a big deal cuz you're not really using the brakes just to stop oh, well I don't anyway I setup for turns using the brakes it only works if they don't lock up!
Muscadine
I believe that if u manage to get a 180 mm rotor in the rear you will be more pleased with the brake's performance, also, some performance oriented tires would go a long way, more grip means more brake power being able to be used
It’s a gorp.
BTW first ?!?
I am picky.
Cut the seat post tube
I don't think that's a Grape. As grapes grow like vines and not as a tree. And when they do grow, they are in bunches and not individually berry/Grape.
Just don't eat it if you don't know what it is.
Comment
It’s not a grape
They look good, would like to see you give them a long term review. 🦥