Wow. This is by far the best video I've seen here in a long time. Very well done. Isaac has quickly become my favorite presenter. Well done on his hire.
hes not explained the quick ways but hes definitely explained the thorough ways =) the quick way: - sand rotors sideways - sand pads - clean all with alcohol - reset all pistons - all must come out evenly - check fluid is clear (if it never gets clear some seal is dead and needs replacement, which means taking stuff appart) - unless you had a crash true rotor with your hand (much easier than the tools, rotors bend at the stem not at the edge because of things pushing against them - only a proper crash might bend the edge if you're very unlucky). number them with a sharpie so you know which one you're working on. push harder than you think. - follow normal steps - bed on a long steep road == much faster than shallow. key is being long enough, you don't want to lock up the brake, just heat them up - perfect brakes !
Stellar video, best I have seen on brake adjustent. This is the first one covering brake balancing, something that I do and didn't know it had a name. Well done, clear, informed, and thorough communication!
There can't be more credibility than "i tried to set my pads on fire and it didn't work". Every good mechanic tried stupid stuff. That's how they got good. Id rather believe someone who tells me straight up, that he fucked up once, than a guy who pretends to know it all. Good work Sir, keep it up. :)
I have success getting mineral oil out with some fire, never dot fluid. Obviously you can't recommend this to anyone, brakes are super important to be made safe
Really well explained. With pad contamination I'll soak them in a detergent and water mix overnight. Then scratch/rub the braking surfaces lightly together while still in the soapy water. Then alcohol soak the next day. Allow to dry before refitting. Discs wiped down with alcohol. And of course bed in once re-installed.
They glossed over something I mentioned in my (rather large) comment, positioning the disc in the centre of the caliper (specially with a fresh build rather than just a bleed or tyre change etc). I find undoing the caliper mount bolts so it can 'float', put the brake on hard, move the caliper sideways so the disk is sitting front and back in the center) and if it stays there by itself, lock the caliper in place. (See the gap at the top of the disk above at 8:30)
This is one of the best overall disc brake maintenance videos I've found on TH-cam. I recently got my 1st disc brake bike and have watched quite a few videos trying to learn how they work and how to maintain them -- you covered pretty much everything in great, understandable detail. Great video -- thanks!
Great vid, very recognisable, subscribed. Having ca 10 bikes in maintenance (the family plus some neighbouring kids) and building boutique bikes as a hobby I do experience the pain of bleeding/adjusting disc brakes wquite often.... You could mention that adjusting discbrakes on an MTB is not science but art haha :) it takes patience and perseverance, and then more..... When using boutique brakes like Radic, Trickstuff and to a lesser degree Hope, the free space between the pads and the disc is ca 0.15mm and you could use gauges of that thickness to adjust them. Trueing discs will be quickly undone when heated up properly, I therefore always replace them immediately. Good advise would be to prevent any air entering the system when bleeding; it is absolutely forbidden to shake the bottle of fluid, and when filling the syringe, do it as slow as possible to prevent cavitation. If possible, vacuum the liquid when in the syringe, with your finger at the tip pulling the piston. It is shocking to see how many entrapped air escapes. The whole bleeding process should be done as slowly as possible to get a proper hard bite and performance during extreme heat applications (eg a 20min 40% descent in the mountains where your life depends on your front brake continuously).
I've successfully restored contaminated rotors by sanding with emory/sandpaper, cleaning with IPA, and finally using a torch on the outside of the rotor, both sides, to burn off any remaining oils in the metal pores, stopping just short of the metal discoloring in any way. One final clean with IPA, and its worked for me most of the time.
I recently learned this method for centering all 4 pistons and getting an even bite. This coupled with lubricating the pistons (I like to clean them and then lube them, push then back, lever them out, and repeat this as many times as I can be arsed) have made my SRAM G2s feel good for the first time ever (better than brand new), previously fresh pads and a fresh bleed only left me completely underwhelmed and this technique has stopped me looking longingly at a new set of shimanos to replace them.
Great video! So pleased I've seen this I just put new tyres on my bike this week. I basically left my bike upside down for to long and now have this problem. Next step for me research this and follow the steps to get my bike up and running again!
Thanks for the tips, I got my back brake all messed up when I had to remove the wheel to install a fender. The rear brake was weak and squealing when I put it back on the pads were just off kilter, the small screwdriver trick did the trick lol. Thanks!
Wow, love this direction of video! I've been chasing performance on my hope brakes, I'm going to try the screwdriver technique to get even brake contact
Did you sort it? I’ve bought a 3d printed piston tool for my e4s and work/hold the piston with a tyre lever. An old set of pads can work as a pad spacer also to avoid the pistons coming out too much
@@woduk I did the flat head holding one piston down and pumping it method until they were all moving equally, worked perfectly, much better bite and lever feel
Whilst I could agree with the "fire to the rotors" to clean them from oily residue, I don't on the pads, for the reasons you mention. Instead, remove contaminated pads and place a drop of dish washing liquid between two of them and rub to your heart's content. After while, just take them all soapy ones in one hand and brush the residues away with a brush, moving and turning them often and then let dry. Good as new 😎
Man great job good delivery very well explained i feel I've got a good grasp of why im so happy after watching this video so happy that i have cable driven break system. Thanks do keepemcoming won't you.
I would really like to see a test where the braking performance is tested by how much the stopping distance is effected when the brakes are new, rubbed in and contaminated in different ways. I hear a lot about fear of contaminating the brakes, but don't know how much braking is effected when you touch the brakes or spill a bit of oil on it for example.
New to disc brakes n that was a very informative n thorough video, -thx u very much, I was curious abt fluid level n bleeding em, is there a link to the bleeding the lines video? Thx again.
Great info. Doddy however mentioned in some previous video about keeping bike upside down for front sus fork foam seals getting lubricated. Maybe a few minutes is ok?
Me trying to find out why when I rode my se bike home why my brakes where not biting like usual and after watching videos I checked my breaks and before I rode home I checked my breaks and my pin holding my pads was lose and I didn't expect anything and now I realize it got loose and one of my brake pads fell off and is gone 😑😭
I once had some mineral oil brake fluid spill on my rear rotor during a bleed. I sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors with dish soap. Went for a ride and it worked perfectly, but only for a short while. Repeated the process and got the same results. Then it occurred to me... There must be some oil settled in the cross drilled sections of the rotor. I turned my focus to those bits of the rotor and the problem was solved.
Today, I cleaned my rotors and pads to get rid of oil contamination, and I used the burning the pads trick. The squeak is gone (thank goodness) but they are biting very well still, not nearly the same as they used to. I've tried bedding them in for about 30min but it hasn't gotten them super "sticky". One thing I haven't done is use sandpaper on the rotors (I saw in the video someone used 80 grit). Do you have any recommendations? i.e. what grit sand paper to use on rotors (or pads) or if new pads would be likely to solve this issue, or maybe its not caused by the pads?
Do all mechanical one side actuated single piston brakes have exactly three balls? I found two that fell out of mine, peered inside, don't see another. I watched a rebuild video but the brake model wasn't the same. Mine is a cheap set that came installed on the front of a $400 eBike. Not sure if I want to take apart the matching rear rn to check, it's functioning fine. The front wasn't so I took it apart partially to clean it. Didn't even know the balls were there until they landed on the floor.
Excellent. Finally some use of mechanical laws of physics and a real scientific approach. I think this might be the first video from gmbn tech that is not FoS 👍
One extra hint for re-bending the rotors. If you have the rubbing point spin the wheel for 180 degrees. So you do not bend the rotor against the brake caliper and avoid getting another bend in it.
Upgrade Question: i bought an MTB size S for my daughter during lockdown. But she now has outgrown the bike, size wise and using it. I was wondering if i can buy a bigger frame and still use the same components? Planning to use it as my daily commuter, what else do i need to consider?
I changed my pads and now they don't stop my bike anymore and I tired a little bit of sand paper on the rotor is that the issue or is it something else?
Ive got a problem where one piston is out and when i push it im it simpley just pushes itself bsck out, ive asked multiple friends on what could be causing it and have had mixed answers between the problem being that its just not reseting amd to bleed it and push it in then and it being sticky, if anyone has any advice it would be very usefull
@@lakaldrak Are Hc3 levers metal? That's why I switched to Shimano levers. Can't use that plastic Magura uses, had a bolt break off for no reason while riding.
@@dystopiaisutopia yes they are Aluminium. But they Charge the Same Money for IT Like a deore xt lever 😅. I never Had Problems With Magura levers Funktion. Only the Standard levers are too thick thats why i picked hc3.
Hello, my hydraulic front pistons are not closing to stop the wheel. I was loosening a screw on the side of the brakes and it came apart. Now the brakes don’t work after I put this back.
What might cause my Rear SRAM Level TL brake lever to return slowly? (squeeze it and it doesn’t snap back) This symptom led me to try a bleed. I noticed the pistons not activating well, but a good clean and bleeding the line got them going. But that lever still doesn’t spring back as quickly as the other, Front lever. #askgmbntech
My brand new XTR rear leavers alot stiffer than the right whole break systems brand new on brand new bike from a good bike building company in England but the rear break lever pulling it feels like it's dry piston or whatever is in there the fronts to nice n smooth easy pull rears not! I'm just not long back into my bike's never had hydrolic discs before like these so not wanting to spray them with lube or anything I don't know if the piston hydrolic mixes with the break fluid from outside the lever it's a small piston behind the lever I think the Issue is coming from. It still works as should just you know how it is when comes to breaks gotta be right 100%
*Can someone help me?* I recently made bled my brakes, no air bubbles, everything ok, the brakes are nice and sharp when the caliper is not with the screws tighten, but when i tighten the screws, the brake just get spongy and weird. Can someone explain why this happen?
Hello, I am experiencing a strange problem with the rear brake of my bike ( Orbea Occam Occam H30 2023), as follows: the pads are perfectly aligned and the disc does not touch when the wheel is spinning idle, the bike being on the repair stand (at the eye the pads are perfectly centered, the distance being equal on both sides) when I get on the bike and pedal, automatically the shock works (sag), the disk starts to touch and makes noise if I lock the shock, again the disk stops touching and I have no noise i mention that the disk and the pads are new the bike has a thru axle and there is no play, it is tightened with a torque wrench according to technical specifications (10 NM) Has anyone encountered this before? What could be the problem, and especially the solution? Thank you!
I found this video, looking for why my cable driven disc brakes keep getting stuck closed on my new Mountain Bike. But you just reinforced how much I just want a dual hub motor e-bike system, with powerful analog signal Regenerative Braking. I'm sick of having to work on and replace things. At least with hub motors, the only thing I have to check & replace, are the bearings, which last a very, very long time. Using just the electromagnetic forces to stop, means no rotors, pads, or rim-brakes to deal with. Saving money, and the environment, because we're not polluting with brake dust, or the manufacturing of brake components, with reduced demand for them. If bicycles were Series Hybrid Pedalecs, or digital drive, with small, recycled batteries, then we would not only get the most out of our legs with them turning generators at the optimal rpm & load, not only be done with shifting gears, but also be done with the noise, maintenance, mess, and costs of a traditional drivetrain. I want to buy or build a full suspension SHP, because the mess and gimmicks, and time lost to maintainace is just ridiculous & disgusting to me. Thank you for this video.
I've got a brand new bike and the front brake is rubbing can not get it to stop . I sort it and as soon as I pull the brake it rubs again. Been back to the shop came back the same, metal filings in the lowers leaving a ring round both stantions, grindy gears. Not good for a 4500 quid bike, first bee bike I've bought and it's been a nightmare it's a price of shit. Scott ain't interested the bike shops fobbed me off. Fox 38 is knocking too. I got it and ended up in hospital ill and not been good, really looked forward to getting out again and trying grow to get some health back and it's just been a massive stress. Really put me off biking
Brittle ceramic caliper pistons dont score by pushing on them with a tool they crack and break. That kills Shimano calipers as they believe bike shops cant replace pistons even though we do on every other brand. You should only reset ceramic pistons with the pads in place. Of course you cant rebalance the pistons unless you push on them individually. After you clean and lube them and have your system open with bleed tools connected use only plastic tools like tire levers directly on ceramic pistons.
The not having youre bike vertical stored one 😬😬😬 Hands up who's taken there bike off the uplift rack at a bike park and a completely spongey break after 🥴🥴🥴🥴 sole destroying
Great video but yeah brakes are overrated just don't use em, Seriously the biggest issue to me is mineral oil. It might be environmentally friendly but it's a wacky brake fluid for intense use 😢
Do NOT try to use the DOT brake fluid as a lubricant EVER!!! It will corrode anything it touches quite quick. Learn a bit of chemistry before doing something as stupid as that.
What on earth is wrong with rim brakes ? They need virtually no maintenance. Disc brakes are a total failure with regard to user friendliness and maintenance. The balance between time, money and effort vs benefit is just not there. Again; a total failure. With regard to road bikes it’s an even bigger failure.
GMBN hides my other account. Rim brakes are useless in the wet. If the rim gets bent your braking suffers, and they simply aren't as strong. Understand?
I sand paper the pads and use nail varnish remover on the disks evey single month 😂 only got shimano deore slx and they are ridiculously good/strong, the front wheel skids if its wet and you are not careful 😂
The best modern brake troubleshooting video on YT
Great to hear it Jonny!
Wow. This is by far the best video I've seen here in a long time. Very well done. Isaac has quickly become my favorite presenter. Well done on his hire.
Thanks heaps! He's working on some great stuff right now, you'll see more of him soon :)
hes not explained the quick ways but hes definitely explained the thorough ways =)
the quick way:
- sand rotors sideways
- sand pads
- clean all with alcohol
- reset all pistons - all must come out evenly
- check fluid is clear (if it never gets clear some seal is dead and needs replacement, which means taking stuff appart)
- unless you had a crash true rotor with your hand (much easier than the tools, rotors bend at the stem not at the edge because of things pushing against them - only a proper crash might bend the edge if you're very unlucky). number them with a sharpie so you know which one you're working on. push harder than you think.
- follow normal steps
- bed on a long steep road == much faster than shallow. key is being long enough, you don't want to lock up the brake, just heat them up
- perfect brakes !
Stellar video, best I have seen on brake adjustent. This is the first one covering brake balancing, something that I do and didn't know it had a name. Well done, clear, informed, and thorough communication!
There can't be more credibility than "i tried to set my pads on fire and it didn't work". Every good mechanic tried stupid stuff. That's how they got good. Id rather believe someone who tells me straight up, that he fucked up once, than a guy who pretends to know it all. Good work Sir, keep it up. :)
I never got my rotors on to light either, but it was still fun to try
I have success getting mineral oil out with some fire, never dot fluid. Obviously you can't recommend this to anyone, brakes are super important to be made safe
Such an excellent thorough concise video!
Brilliant detail. More please from this expert
Isaac's working on some more great stuff right now!
Really well explained. With pad contamination I'll soak them in a detergent and water mix overnight. Then scratch/rub the braking surfaces lightly together while still in the soapy water. Then alcohol soak the next day. Allow to dry before refitting. Discs wiped down with alcohol. And of course bed in once re-installed.
For alignment, I just loosen the calliper, with the pads in and squeeze the brake, then tighten up, works for me and I've not had a problem yet.
I'm building a bike for the first time from nuts n bolts up, so these vids REALLY help out.. Thanx!
They glossed over something I mentioned in my (rather large) comment, positioning the disc in the centre of the caliper (specially with a fresh build rather than just a bleed or tyre change etc).
I find undoing the caliper mount bolts so it can 'float', put the brake on hard, move the caliper sideways so the disk is sitting front and back in the center) and if it stays there by itself, lock the caliper in place.
(See the gap at the top of the disk above at 8:30)
Super thorough vid. I’ve had some issues, one thing I haven’t tried is balancing the pistons. Cheers
Hope it works out for you! Glad we could help :)
This is one of the best overall disc brake maintenance videos I've found on TH-cam. I recently got my 1st disc brake bike and have watched quite a few videos trying to learn how they work and how to maintain them -- you covered pretty much everything in great, understandable detail. Great video -- thanks!
Great vid, very recognisable, subscribed. Having ca 10 bikes in maintenance (the family plus some neighbouring kids) and building boutique bikes as a hobby I do experience the pain of bleeding/adjusting disc brakes wquite often.... You could mention that adjusting discbrakes on an MTB is not science but art haha :) it takes patience and perseverance, and then more..... When using boutique brakes like Radic, Trickstuff and to a lesser degree Hope, the free space between the pads and the disc is ca 0.15mm and you could use gauges of that thickness to adjust them. Trueing discs will be quickly undone when heated up properly, I therefore always replace them immediately. Good advise would be to prevent any air entering the system when bleeding; it is absolutely forbidden to shake the bottle of fluid, and when filling the syringe, do it as slow as possible to prevent cavitation. If possible, vacuum the liquid when in the syringe, with your finger at the tip pulling the piston. It is shocking to see how many entrapped air escapes. The whole bleeding process should be done as slowly as possible to get a proper hard bite and performance during extreme heat applications (eg a 20min 40% descent in the mountains where your life depends on your front brake continuously).
Great job Isaac. Nice & clear instructions!
Awesome knowledge, concisely delivered
Boy, you surprised me when talking about brake adherent friction. I thought you were just a common rodie/mtber. I think your an all right guy Isaac.
GREAT BRAKE VIDEO!!! thanks and cheers guys
I've successfully restored contaminated rotors by sanding with emory/sandpaper, cleaning with IPA, and finally using a torch on the outside of the rotor, both sides, to burn off any remaining oils in the metal pores, stopping just short of the metal discoloring in any way. One final clean with IPA, and its worked for me most of the time.
Awesome vid. The animated graphics really helped visualise what was happening within my brakes.
Excellent new info on the bedding in process. Great video Isaac.
I recently learned this method for centering all 4 pistons and getting an even bite. This coupled with lubricating the pistons (I like to clean them and then lube them, push then back, lever them out, and repeat this as many times as I can be arsed) have made my SRAM G2s feel good for the first time ever (better than brand new), previously fresh pads and a fresh bleed only left me completely underwhelmed and this technique has stopped me looking longingly at a new set of shimanos to replace them.
Strong manual! 🔥
Excellent video. Very clear & explicit (in a good way). Thanks Isaac!
Great video! So pleased I've seen this I just put new tyres on my bike this week. I basically left my bike upside down for to long and now have this problem. Next step for me research this and follow the steps to get my bike up and running again!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the tips, I got my back brake all messed up when I had to remove the wheel to install a fender. The rear brake was weak and squealing when I put it back on the pads were just off kilter, the small screwdriver trick did the trick lol. Thanks!
Precise and informative , top
notch !
Superb presenting! Ecceptionally explained! 👌
Brilliant. Very well explained & presented. Two👍🏻👍🏻from me.
Glad it was helpful!
@@gmbntech very informative. Thank you👊🏻
Thanks for creating and sharing this insightful content. You Rock
You could also sand your brake pads if contaminated and the contaminant hasnt soaked in too deep on a too large area
Very thorough. Thanks for the research you did.
That pretty much covered everything!👍🏻
Wow, love this direction of video! I've been chasing performance on my hope brakes, I'm going to try the screwdriver technique to get even brake contact
Hope it helps! Let us know how you go :)
Did you sort it? I’ve bought a 3d printed piston tool for my e4s and work/hold the piston with a tyre lever. An old set of pads can work as a pad spacer also to avoid the pistons coming out too much
@@woduk I did the flat head holding one piston down and pumping it method until they were all moving equally, worked perfectly, much better bite and lever feel
Great video, good to have some in depth knowledge on this… 👍🏽😎
Glad it was helpful! Cheers for watching and subscribe for more :)
Wow much better tech video than most on this channel apart from Anna's she is awesome.. this video gets a 5*
Whilst I could agree with the "fire to the rotors" to clean them from oily residue, I don't on the pads, for the reasons you mention.
Instead, remove contaminated pads and place a drop of dish washing liquid between two of them and rub to your heart's content.
After while, just take them all soapy ones in one hand and brush the residues away with a brush, moving and turning them often and then let dry.
Good as new 😎
I like Anna and this guy, but Doddy was the OG and the best for this channel IMO.
very good video and excellently preseented.
thanks for the trick of removing the chain to hear better
Man great job good delivery very well explained i feel I've got a good grasp of why im so happy after watching this video so happy that i have cable driven break system.
Thanks do keepemcoming won't you.
Very helpful, grazie
I would really like to see a test where the braking performance is tested by how much the stopping distance is effected when the brakes are new, rubbed in and contaminated in different ways. I hear a lot about fear of contaminating the brakes, but don't know how much braking is effected when you touch the brakes or spill a bit of oil on it for example.
What about a stiff brake lever ? Is that over bleeding or is it something to do with callipers ?
SRAM? it's because they are shit, can't wait to swap mine for Shimanos.
New to disc brakes n that was a very informative n thorough video, -thx u very much, I was curious abt fluid level n bleeding em, is there a link to the bleeding the lines video? Thx again.
Nicely done.👍
Great info. Doddy however mentioned in some previous video about keeping bike upside down for front sus fork foam seals getting lubricated. Maybe a few minutes is ok?
8:54 Onyx hub is the best rotor alignment hub
Me trying to find out why when I rode my se bike home why my brakes where not biting like usual and after watching videos I checked my breaks and before I rode home I checked my breaks and my pin holding my pads was lose and I didn't expect anything and now I realize it got loose and one of my brake pads fell off and is gone 😑😭
Can you adjust a shimano xt rotor that’s not just one piece of metal
Great explanations!
I once had some mineral oil brake fluid spill on my rear rotor during a bleed. I sanded the pads and cleaned the rotors with dish soap. Went for a ride and it worked perfectly, but only for a short while. Repeated the process and got the same results. Then it occurred to me... There must be some oil settled in the cross drilled sections of the rotor. I turned my focus to those bits of the rotor and the problem was solved.
Today, I cleaned my rotors and pads to get rid of oil contamination, and I used the burning the pads trick. The squeak is gone (thank goodness) but they are biting very well still, not nearly the same as they used to. I've tried bedding them in for about 30min but it hasn't gotten them super "sticky". One thing I haven't done is use sandpaper on the rotors (I saw in the video someone used 80 grit). Do you have any recommendations? i.e. what grit sand paper to use on rotors (or pads) or if new pads would be likely to solve this issue, or maybe its not caused by the pads?
Do all mechanical one side actuated single piston brakes have exactly three balls? I found two that fell out of mine, peered inside, don't see another. I watched a rebuild video but the brake model wasn't the same. Mine is a cheap set that came installed on the front of a $400 eBike. Not sure if I want to take apart the matching rear rn to check, it's functioning fine. The front wasn't so I took it apart partially to clean it. Didn't even know the balls were there until they landed on the floor.
Excellent. Finally some use of mechanical laws of physics and a real scientific approach. I think this might be the first video from gmbn tech that is not FoS 👍
This may be why I keep getting brake fluid leaking out of the air port on both levers on my Hope V4s when storing my bike vertically on the wall
Will contaminated rotors / pads almost always squeal?
I ditched fluids got set of Klampers zero issues
Can u please do the same detail video on non-disc brakes please?
JONATHAN
This guy is great
One extra hint for re-bending the rotors. If you have the rubbing point spin the wheel for 180 degrees. So you do not bend the rotor against the brake caliper and avoid getting another bend in it.
Upgrade Question: i bought an MTB size S for my daughter during lockdown. But she now has outgrown the bike, size wise and using it. I was wondering if i can buy a bigger frame and still use the same components? Planning to use it as my daily commuter, what else do i need to consider?
As long as the new frame uses the same wheel size it should be fine. Brake lines may still fit, If the size difference is not too big.
I changed my pads and now they don't stop my bike anymore and I tired a little bit of sand paper on the rotor is that the issue or is it something else?
Ive got a problem where one piston is out and when i push it im it simpley just pushes itself bsck out, ive asked multiple friends on what could be causing it and have had mixed answers between the problem being that its just not reseting amd to bleed it and push it in then and it being sticky, if anyone has any advice it would be very usefull
One tip in getting a nicer feeling brake is.
Throw away your old sram brakes and buy shimano.
The end.
Magura calipers with Shimano levers
@@dystopiaisutopiai prefer Magura hc3 levers on the mt7. On my mt5 yes Shimano lever 👍
@@lakaldrak Are Hc3 levers metal? That's why I switched to Shimano levers. Can't use that plastic Magura uses, had a bolt break off for no reason while riding.
@@dystopiaisutopia yes they are Aluminium. But they Charge the Same Money for IT Like a deore xt lever 😅. I never Had Problems With Magura levers Funktion. Only the Standard levers are too thick thats why i picked hc3.
Hello, my hydraulic front pistons are not closing to stop the wheel. I was loosening a screw on the side of the brakes and it came apart. Now the brakes don’t work after I put this back.
What might cause my Rear SRAM Level TL brake lever to return slowly? (squeeze it and it doesn’t snap back) This symptom led me to try a bleed. I noticed the pistons not activating well, but a good clean and bleeding the line got them going. But that lever still doesn’t spring back as quickly as the other, Front lever. #askgmbntech
in KNEW that something was wrong with my breaks. the caliper that i have only moves the pads on 1 side. the other sits still.
My brand new XTR rear leavers alot stiffer than the right whole break systems brand new on brand new bike from a good bike building company in England but the rear break lever pulling it feels like it's dry piston or whatever is in there the fronts to nice n smooth easy pull rears not! I'm just not long back into my bike's never had hydrolic discs before like these so not wanting to spray them with lube or anything I don't know if the piston hydrolic mixes with the break fluid from outside the lever it's a small piston behind the lever I think the Issue is coming from. It still works as should just you know how it is when comes to breaks gotta be right 100%
Who is this cat? Good job, you are clearly a tech head. Failte!!
This is Isaac Mundy - he's a new presenter on GMBN, but joined us for this Tech video!
@@gmbntech Welcome Issac Mundy!!
*Can someone help me?* I recently made bled my brakes, no air bubbles, everything ok, the brakes are nice and sharp when the caliper is not with the screws tighten, but when i tighten the screws, the brake just get spongy and weird. Can someone explain why this happen?
The official SRAM manual says not to lubricate the pistons of the caliper as mentioned in this video.
Hello,
I am experiencing a strange problem with the rear brake of my bike ( Orbea Occam Occam H30 2023), as follows:
the pads are perfectly aligned and the disc does not touch when the wheel is spinning idle, the bike being on the repair stand (at the eye the pads are perfectly centered, the distance being equal on both sides)
when I get on the bike and pedal, automatically the shock works (sag), the disk starts to touch and makes noise
if I lock the shock, again the disk stops touching and I have no noise
i mention that the disk and the pads are new
the bike has a thru axle and there is no play, it is tightened with a torque wrench according to technical specifications (10 NM)
Has anyone encountered this before? What could be the problem, and especially the solution?
Thank you!
I found this video, looking for why my cable driven disc brakes keep getting stuck closed on my new Mountain Bike.
But you just reinforced how much I just want a dual hub motor e-bike system, with powerful analog signal Regenerative Braking. I'm sick of having to work on and replace things. At least with hub motors, the only thing I have to check & replace, are the bearings, which last a very, very long time. Using just the electromagnetic forces to stop, means no rotors, pads, or rim-brakes to deal with. Saving money, and the environment, because we're not polluting with brake dust, or the manufacturing of brake components, with reduced demand for them.
If bicycles were Series Hybrid Pedalecs, or digital drive, with small, recycled batteries, then we would not only get the most out of our legs with them turning generators at the optimal rpm & load, not only be done with shifting gears, but also be done with the noise, maintenance, mess, and costs of a traditional drivetrain. I want to buy or build a full suspension SHP, because the mess and gimmicks, and time lost to maintainace is just ridiculous & disgusting to me.
Thank you for this video.
I've got a brand new bike and the front brake is rubbing can not get it to stop . I sort it and as soon as I pull the brake it rubs again. Been back to the shop came back the same, metal filings in the lowers leaving a ring round both stantions, grindy gears. Not good for a 4500 quid bike, first bee bike I've bought and it's been a nightmare it's a price of shit. Scott ain't interested the bike shops fobbed me off. Fox 38 is knocking too. I got it and ended up in hospital ill and not been good, really looked forward to getting out again and trying grow to get some health back and it's just been a massive stress. Really put me off biking
Have you ever had problems with disc brake judder, and how did you solve it?
What if the bite feels funny like you can feel the holes in the rotor lol sounds weird but that’s what I’m hearing a feeling in new brakes
My brakes are great at 'normal' speeds, but I'm getting a squealing just before I stop. Anyone got any ideas what it is? Pads are about a month old
When i brake hard for back brakes, it won't grip hard enough, Very annoy newish bike
Brittle ceramic caliper pistons dont score by pushing on them with a tool they crack and break.
That kills Shimano calipers as they believe bike shops cant replace pistons even though we do on every other brand.
You should only reset ceramic pistons with the pads in place.
Of course you cant rebalance the pistons unless you push on them individually.
After you clean and lube them and have your system open with bleed tools connected use only plastic tools like tire levers directly on ceramic pistons.
🎉
If you run sram no sponge felling .the best upgrade I have done .you don't have any of these issues
Sram code R it does not matter. 😊
Great addition to tech is the blonde one leaving 🙏 🙏🙏
I hope not.
I hope so she doesn't know anything and smiles too much.
@@dystopiaisutopiawow
Cleaning a brakedisk while holding it in your hand ...
Wow...
The not having youre bike vertical stored one 😬😬😬 Hands up who's taken there bike off the uplift rack at a bike park and a completely spongey break after 🥴🥴🥴🥴 sole destroying
If this happens you have air in the lever reservoir. Should not happen with brakes bleeded periodically
Great video but yeah brakes are overrated just don't use em,
Seriously the biggest issue to me is mineral oil.
It might be environmentally friendly but it's a wacky brake fluid for intense use 😢
Is there anything Isaac can’t do
👏👍
Who let a roadie in the mountain bike set😂
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it
Doddy?
hmmmmm, SRAM
2nd comment, yay
( btw awsome video)
Thanks! We hope it helps!
Standout.
bo oh o wo oh
Do NOT try to use the DOT brake fluid as a lubricant EVER!!! It will corrode anything it touches quite quick. Learn a bit of chemistry before doing something as stupid as that.
What on earth is wrong with rim brakes ? They need virtually no maintenance. Disc brakes are a total failure with regard to user friendliness and maintenance. The balance between time, money and effort vs benefit is just not there. Again; a total failure. With regard to road bikes it’s an even bigger failure.
Aren't they useless in the wet?
Whaaaaaat!
Rim breaks on mtb, that’s just scary😱, especially in the wet…….
GMBN hides my other account.
Rim brakes are useless in the wet. If the rim gets bent your braking suffers, and they simply aren't as strong. Understand?
@@wonderwatch2239brakes*
Oh, rim brakes … so I have carbonfiber rims … let me tell you …
I hind the tone of voice very patronising.
1st comment? less go
🥇
Ok Less
Bit long winded
Which is good for us without ADHD
I sand paper the pads and use nail varnish remover on the disks evey single month 😂 only got shimano deore slx and they are ridiculously good/strong, the front wheel skids if its wet and you are not careful 😂