Blue and Yellow are for Auxiliary switches, Yellow is switch 1, blue is switch 2. I have this unit on my POV, the additional wires on the other harness are for the horn relay and radio.
Please don't follow this guy's wiring instruction. You need to either solder the connections or use a proper crimp tool and appropriate sized terminals and splices. Using his method, your system will fail very quickly and possibly cause damage.
Those heat shrinks serve only to cover exposed wire, not connect them. Possibly a temporary fix, but not something to put in a "install video". Invest in a soldering iron, ratcheting crimp tool/crimps, a heat gun, etc, and learn how to make basic connections if you're gonna make an "installation video" with heat shrinks as your only connectors.
First question- why do you need a siren... Second- why in god's name are you heat shrinking like that... Those are supposed to go over completed connections to seal them from the elements, not serve as the connection itself.
In mine they reversed the polarity. If you did everything right and the fuse is still blowing. Open the unit and switch the orange(+) and black(-) wires.(common manufacturing mistake) worked fine after. Orange(+) should be furthest from the back plate.
You cut the wrong wires. The yellow and blue wires are for auxiliary lights. It is a separate harness for the radio and horn relay. Check your installation manual.
No for this box the yellow and blue are for the horn if you wanted to hook them up, there’s a seperate plug in the back of the box for lights and other sounds
2:52 I have a question on the wires on that part, Can't you just merge the 2 black wires to black and white wires all together at once, or will that mess it up?
Kaleb is not right here. Black is pretty much universally ground and red is power. It's possible that you have different colored wires from previous alterations so always go by the marking on the battery when making connections.
PLEASE DONT DO THIS! even if it works half way decent (which it doesn't, maybe 45% of the quality and 25% usability.) there are proper ways of securing automotive splices. just heat shrinking them blows my mind! but in this guys defense, it seems like he just wanted a semi decent loud speaker. that being said, if your gonna do this yourself, id recommend using a Whelen brand electronic siren amplifier (AKA the head unit that has your siren selection display/controls) not really important, i just like the 295SLSC1 series. it has some pretty cool features including 17 different Scan-Lock siren tones, and a small form factor for easy mounting. id pair that with 2, 100 watt KS-100-N speaker drivers from Knox. ( Make sure you get the ks-100-N as it comes with a threaded neck and extra mount holes for different housings. they run about $200-$250 a piece new. Hard to find used, but not impossible. For this setup its recommend that the customer supplied wires that connect to the positive terminal of the battery must be sized to supply at least 125% of the maximum operating current and fused at the battery to carry that load. (Do not use circuit breakers here) alright now the fun part! for the larger connector on the rear of the amplifier (12 pins) i made a quick reference list for identifying each wire. -- input connectors are as followed: Pin 1 - Red/14GA - (+) - Battery | Pin 2 - Black/14GA - (-) Ground | Pin 3 - Blue/18GA - Radio | Pin 4 - Red/14GA - (+) Battery | Pin 5 - Black/14GA - (-) Ground | Pin 6 - Blue/18GA - Radio |Pin 7 - Brown/16GA - Speaker COM | Pin 8 - Orange/16GA - Speaker #2 (positive) | Pin 9 - Violet/18GA - AUX Enable | Pin 10 - Grey/18GA - Horn | Pin 11 - white/18GA - Horn Ring | Pin 12 - Yellow/16GA - Speaker #1 now for the 3 pin connector located on the rear, lower side ( the scan-lock switch should be on the left and the 10-12 pin connector above) is as follows: Pin 1 - Wht/Yel - Backlighting | Pin 2 wht/orng - "Siren In Use" Output. | Pin 3 - wht/grn - Siren Interruption. | Please note that all circuits should be properly terminated. I recommend buying extra connectors with sealing pins so that you may pin and cap off any un-used wires. i also recommend using DEUTCH Connectors, depending on where you connection are, either the DT series or the DTHD series. (Both have different methods of sealing so you determine what tools you have and what connectors you want to use. (cough DT cough series cough cough) you will need to purchase the white sealing pins with the DT series. the DTHD requires blue sealing sleaves. if you decide to do a full install for all the available features, the PIN 11 white wire coming from the amp can be routed to the horn relay output, and the horn wire going to the horn itself can be removed from the horn relay output and connected to the grey horn wire Pin 10 on the amp. As well if you aren't planning to use or add an existing control head, such as the Whelen PCCS9NP or equivalent, then its recommended to cut the violet wire and cap it off to avoid accidental grounding. in conclusion, i know that's a lot to read lol, if anyone has questions feel free to reach out! thank you for any constructive criticism you may offer! we all have room for improvement! that being said, everything i stated here DOES follow NFPA standards! provided that the installer follow proper NFPA splicing and terminating standards. i find it to be more important that not to be accurate as possible with installs like this. any deviations may cause un-wanted interference or worse, a 6-700 dollar paper weight. trust me! Ive been installing electrical harness/components in emergency vehicles for a long long time. its never fun ruining a nice piece of equipment!
@@darealist2082 you should just have bought CJB100CD www.alibaba.com/product-detail/100W-Siren-with-Loud-Speaker-Police_60186231373.html?spm=a2747.manage.0.0.7e8b71d2dw7N9r&fbclid=IwAR3mQmSxDyUmicqDS8VA2HjMavzvNzyh2yPLuIKOWKec14ctuo13FUNOs7Mit has the same horn but a lot better sounds and is cheaper
Blue and Yellow are for Auxiliary switches, Yellow is switch 1, blue is switch 2. I have this unit on my POV, the additional wires on the other harness are for the horn relay and radio.
How do you wire them to light? Will you still need separate wire harness for power and fuses?
what are the 2 reds and orange are for coming from the siren box
Yellow for Switch 1 and Blue for switch 2, are these “power” for the lights? Do I then just go to ground with the second led wire?
@@SantaPlaysPickleball Yep those two wires are positive input and the ground is any ground on the chassis with a bare metal connection
@@brandon7236 great. Thanks so much. Wiring everything up tomorrow.
Please don't follow this guy's wiring instruction. You need to either solder the connections or use a proper crimp tool and appropriate sized terminals and splices. Using his method, your system will fail very quickly and possibly cause damage.
Oh well your fuse goes out buy another
Those heat shrinks serve only to cover exposed wire, not connect them. Possibly a temporary fix, but not something to put in a "install video".
Invest in a soldering iron, ratcheting crimp tool/crimps, a heat gun, etc, and learn how to make basic connections if you're gonna make an "installation video" with heat shrinks as your only connectors.
First question- why do you need a siren... Second- why in god's name are you heat shrinking like that... Those are supposed to go over completed connections to seal them from the elements, not serve as the connection itself.
From were coming 2 black wires from inside. ?????
In mine they reversed the polarity. If you did everything right and the fuse is still blowing. Open the unit and switch the orange(+) and black(-) wires.(common manufacturing mistake) worked fine after. Orange(+) should be furthest from the back plate.
How tf did you end up with two black wires
I never saw where you put the ground
You cut the wrong wires. The yellow and blue wires are for auxiliary lights. It is a separate harness for the radio and horn relay. Check your installation manual.
No for this box the yellow and blue are for the horn if you wanted to hook them up, there’s a seperate plug in the back of the box for lights and other sounds
Da Realist wrong the blue and yellow are for aux lights the other plug us for horn relay I just installed mine and read instructions 4 times
2:52 I have a question on the wires on that part, Can't you just merge the 2 black wires to black and white wires all together at once, or will that mess it up?
Do a demo of your siren
how do you connecy to lights
I believe the two wires he said he cut at the beginning. The blue and yellow ones. One is switch one and one is switch two
I always wanted one of these things
What does it sound like if I just connect it to my horn?
My fuse keeps popping, can it be that I hooked the black wire to the ground?
Yes. When it comes to lights & Sirens things are going to be reversed. Red Is Grounding Cable & Black is power
Kaleb is not right here. Black is pretty much universally ground and red is power. It's possible that you have different colored wires from previous alterations so always go by the marking on the battery when making connections.
sir why you don't put a really on it?????
thanks sir
can you connect a aux wire???
did u find out becuase i wanna get one jus to play music on
That siren doesn't sound that good get the Federal signal PA300 that is the real version of this siren.
The only good thing about this siren is the horn.
Link in sea dosent work
you just help people go to jail lol
PA System on Philippine vehicle
PLEASE DONT DO THIS! even if it works half way decent (which it doesn't, maybe 45% of the quality and 25% usability.) there are proper ways of securing automotive splices. just heat shrinking them blows my mind! but in this guys defense, it seems like he just wanted a semi decent loud speaker. that being said, if your gonna do this yourself, id recommend using a Whelen brand electronic siren amplifier (AKA the head unit that has your siren selection display/controls) not really important, i just like the 295SLSC1 series. it has some pretty cool features including 17 different Scan-Lock siren tones, and a small form factor for easy mounting. id pair that with 2, 100 watt KS-100-N speaker drivers from Knox. ( Make sure you get the ks-100-N as it comes with a threaded neck and extra mount holes for different housings. they run about $200-$250 a piece new. Hard to find used, but not impossible. For this setup its recommend that the customer supplied wires that connect to the positive terminal of the battery must be sized to supply at least 125% of the maximum operating current and fused at the battery to carry that load. (Do not use circuit breakers here) alright now the fun part! for the larger connector on the rear of the amplifier (12 pins) i made a quick reference list for identifying each wire. -- input connectors are as followed: Pin 1 - Red/14GA - (+) - Battery | Pin 2 - Black/14GA - (-) Ground | Pin 3 - Blue/18GA - Radio | Pin 4 - Red/14GA - (+) Battery | Pin 5 - Black/14GA - (-) Ground | Pin 6 - Blue/18GA - Radio |Pin 7 - Brown/16GA - Speaker COM | Pin 8 - Orange/16GA - Speaker #2 (positive) | Pin 9 - Violet/18GA - AUX Enable | Pin 10 - Grey/18GA - Horn | Pin 11 - white/18GA - Horn Ring | Pin 12 - Yellow/16GA - Speaker #1
now for the 3 pin connector located on the rear, lower side ( the scan-lock switch should be on the left and the 10-12 pin connector above) is as follows: Pin 1 - Wht/Yel - Backlighting | Pin 2 wht/orng - "Siren In Use" Output. | Pin 3 - wht/grn - Siren Interruption. | Please note that all circuits should be properly terminated. I recommend buying extra connectors with sealing pins so that you may pin and cap off any un-used wires. i also recommend using DEUTCH Connectors, depending on where you connection are, either the DT series or the DTHD series. (Both have different methods of sealing so you determine what tools you have and what connectors you want to use. (cough DT cough series cough cough) you will need to purchase the white sealing pins with the DT series. the DTHD requires blue sealing sleaves. if you decide to do a full install for all the available features, the PIN 11 white wire coming from the amp can be routed to the horn relay output, and the horn wire going to the horn itself can be removed from the horn relay output and connected to the grey horn wire Pin 10 on the amp. As well if you aren't planning to use or add an existing
control head, such as the Whelen PCCS9NP or equivalent, then its recommended to cut the violet wire and cap it off to avoid accidental grounding.
in conclusion, i know that's a lot to read lol, if anyone has questions feel free to reach out! thank you for any constructive criticism you may offer! we all have room for improvement!
that being said, everything i stated here DOES follow NFPA standards! provided that the installer follow proper NFPA splicing and terminating standards. i find it to be more important that not to be accurate as possible with installs like this. any deviations may cause un-wanted interference or worse, a 6-700 dollar paper weight. trust me! Ive been installing electrical harness/components in emergency vehicles for a long long time. its never fun ruining a nice piece of equipment!
Also for anyone interested! : 12-Volt Model
INPUT VOLTAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 VDC ±20%
INPUT CURRENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 AMPS (TYP.)
INPUT FUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 AMPS
SPEAKER IMPEDANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 OHMS MIN.
OPERATING TEMPERATURE . . . . . . .-30° C. TO +80° C.
STORAGE TEMPERATURE. . . . . . . . .-40° C. TO +70° C
HUMIDITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99% (Non-Condensing)
zip tied? lol just stuffing wires into battery instead of fuse box. talk about jimmy rigged.
I like one for a gift 🎁
Use butt connectors 😂 don’t twist wires
Didn't even play the sounds. Waste of time
But it would not matter because we will be arrested for impersonating a police officer ]:
It doesn’t have to be like that unless that’s your intentions. Just for fun
@@darealist2082 you should just have bought CJB100CD www.alibaba.com/product-detail/100W-Siren-with-Loud-Speaker-Police_60186231373.html?spm=a2747.manage.0.0.7e8b71d2dw7N9r&fbclid=IwAR3mQmSxDyUmicqDS8VA2HjMavzvNzyh2yPLuIKOWKec14ctuo13FUNOs7Mit has the same horn but a lot better sounds and is cheaper
@@NeilPlaza is any of this legal? Lol
@@vegascvpiaaron6807 it depends where you live.
yes 100% legal as an EMERGENCY responder/firefighter on a personal vehicle, *laws vary state by state*.