Great videos, gave me the confidence to open up my microcat and have a go myself, looking forward to the next one on how to seal the boat and stiil have access to the inside, keep um coming 👍
Ime an oap and hopeless with electrics but have followed your conversion and nearly finished my microcat upgrade I’ve done 2.4 g conversions to all sorts of baitboats but that was 15 years ago I thought maybe you could do a set of wiring that would help us duffers I struggled to do mine but its ready to be put in now just got to attach relay and mossfit well done you !!!
Hi can anybody help me I’ve done Dave’s rewiring but used the normal 6v lead acid batteries but can’t get the remotes to work I’ve bought 4 so far one lights up and switches off but no connection to the misfit how do you wire these up I’ve followed the videos but not sure if the wire on the battery loom goes to the power in on the remote this is stuff that really confuses me most of these remote switches have power in. - + and then a few terminals N line L line Com no idea what that means just so frustrating gonna have one more go then sell it as it is help me please 🥲🥲
Very useful video thank you. Just bought a microcat second hand that is in full working order so won't be messing but I'm already looking for broken boats on eBay 🤪
Fantastic stuff. Clears up my only queries! I ended up using a cheap chinese esc to use as led dimmers, works great in my procats. Looking forward to pt4 👍
Wauw! Great project, i love it 👌💪! A Skarp S60 Mod to brushless engines and lithium ion batteries can be cool. I am working on such a mod myself, but the feeder hatch magnets are challenging anyway.
really enjoying these video's and really looking forward to the next one as I am really interested to see how you are going to make the boat more accessible for maintenance.
Top work Dave, really enjoying these videos. How about an AT Standard bait boat next? I've modded mine to make the 12v sla battery swappable but i'd be interested to see how you do it.
Thanks Ben Stock, much appreciated. I have already redone a Standard Bait Boat. I rebuilt it for a mate of mine and there’s a video on my channel: th-cam.com/video/uQx64dYmkKI/w-d-xo.html
Hello Dave, I'll echo what people are saying, what you do is amazing 🤯 im sure you've been asked loads of times but is it just your own boat you modify or do you do the general public? I have a microcat and very interested in the door servo conversion you do, also i fish a weedy water, is there anything you know of to stop the doors catching on the weed once opened? I know, drive round it lol. Great videos Dave 👏 look forward to hearing from you. Jason
Thanks Jason, much appreciated. I just do the videos to help people do the mods themselves as I don’t have time to do other people’s boats unfortunately. Regarding the weed, I can’t really think of a way of solving the issue of them catching on it. The only way to do it would be to redesign the hoppers so that they’re not opened by gravity but have some sort of mechanism that both opens and closes them. That would be quite the redesign though.
Many thanks for the useful video. May I ask why there is the need to use fireproof jackets and a metal box for when charging the lithium batteries? I'm considering getting some for my boat
You’re welcome Leon Ashton-Leatherland, thanks for watching. I found this on Google which explains how and why you should have some fireproof bags for Lipos: www.dslrpros.com/dslrpros-blog/why-lipo-bags-are-essential-for-battery-safety/
Not long now, it’s been quite a lot of doing things to see what works (and what doesn’t). I’ve finalised it now, just finishing that off and then need to edit the video. Shouldn’t be too much longer 👍🏼
Hi, finished the boat, all good thanks. Having problems binding the radio to the receiver ! any tips greatly appreciated, thanks Dave I've enjoyed the build. Took longer than I thought it would though :))
@@DaveMattock Hi, yes I bought the exact radio gear that you advised Dave, had a good look on you tube but still no luck, any help will be appreciated :)
@@davidlowe392 The latest version of the radio, the S Lite, doesn’t bind with D8 receivers, which is what the R86 receiver is. Under the links from part 2, there’s a link to the module you’ll need for the S Lite to bind to the R86 receiver.
@@DaveMattock Thanks Dave , ended up being a faulty receiver , chap at the model shop said its very rare ! Thanks for the kind help. Echo sounder is my next project :) best regards :)
Hi Dave, I got the hopper mod done and making the wiring complete.😊 I did see on the video that you plug in the red wires from the BEC of Esc's in the receiver. Did you not burn your receiver? I think you may only use 1 red wire if you use multiple Esc setup?
Hi Giel, I’ve always plugged both of the positive wires of the esc’s into the receiver. Some people say don’t but the positive rails on the receiver, across the channels, is parallel (not series) so if anything, plugging both of the positive wires to the receiver will enable it to draw more current, which it uses to power the servos. It’s up to you how you’d like to do it but I’ve done this countless times and never had an issue.
Hi Dave finally some decent content for the Microcat excellent vids mate I am mid project and will be following closely thanks. Will you be covering the removal of the pumps from the boat ? Also love the camera that views the lake bed in your other video will you be adding this to the Microcat as I would definitely be adding. Keep them coming cheers
Thanks Evie Read, much appreciated. I wasn’t planning on removing the pumps from mine but if I need to, I’ll definitely do a video on it. Camera and video transmitter will be coming in the video after next 👍🏼
great easy to follow guide . well done and thanks for sharing. where can i get the cad file from to print boat, can it be converted to an sti file / many thanks. keep up these great vids .
Thanks Sally, the link is in the video description to my Google drive where you can get the 3D model from. I did convert it to an sti file but it wasn’t much use as none of the wires were coloured, they all just came out a grey colour so didn’t think it would be much use.
Thanks very much, I didn’t actually do the set priming mod myself but you would just need to get yourself 4 M5 bleed nipples, some silicone tubing and an M5 tap to tap holes to the pumps where the white plastic meets the red plastic. Screw the bleed nipples into the tapped holes, seal them up and attach the silicone hose to those. Same at the stern of the boat. Do the exact same thing there and that’s it.
Thanks Alberto Graziadei, much appreciated. I’ve run those Rule Bilge Pumps on 4s on my other boat for over 7 years now and never had an issue. Never had to replace them, they’re still the same pumps I put in it originally.
Hi david lowe, yeah, you have to step the voltage down from the input voltage to 12v. There should either be a potentiometer on the step down module, where you would provide the input voltage to the module, and then alter the output voltage by turning the potentiometer until you get the required voltage. You would need a multimeter to read the output voltage. Or, if you use the link I gave in the video to the step down modules I used, there are solder bridges on the back of them that you bridge with solder to get the required voltage. You do need to break the copper bridge on the back also, which is what bypasses the potentiometer. Take a look at this link if you’re unsure: www.joom.com/en/products/5d1c778a8b4513010198fde7
@@DaveMattock Thanks for the reply, its easy when someone explains !!!!! Hope my queries help somebody else too. Thanks again Dave, I'm looking forward to more videos from you. Best regards :)
Great videos Dave, and extremely helpful. Just a quick question. Does it matter which 12v remote control you use? Your link is for 6 channel but does it matter how many channels it has? Thanks
Hi Craig, thanks very much. It looks like the link I’ve set up is no longer working. Not sure why the original title says 6 channel as it’s only one channel (either on or off). I’ve found another one for you, which is the same as what you need but the layout is slightly different I.E the voltage in and relay terminals are all up one of the circuit board. It’ll work exactly the same though. amzn.to/3ZrsOot
Hi again Dave, I have just finished all the wiring apart from the led's. I'm now having problems setting up my transmitter! I'm using the flysky fs-i6x, but just can't get my head around the set up any help ie step by step guide would be appreciated. Cheeky I know but thank in advance Kieron.
Hi Dave, I've sorted the transmitter out. Port pumps are not working at 100% power so I have ordered 2 new one's and was wondering if you had changed them yourself and had any advice.
Thanks Alan, you would need everything in the video but instead of wiring the 4 pumps up, you would just need to wire the two motors instead. The blue and yellow wires from each of the escs would be wired directly to the two motors in the procat, instead of having a permanent live to each of the 4 pumps
I came across these videos whilst searching for a way to add gps with autopilot and swap my Microcat MK2 to 2.4gz. I have a few questions for you. Firstly how did you get the old esc boxes off the pumps and side of the boat. They seem stuck fast on my boat and the body is so flimsy. Also the LEDs and other stuff is plastered in a grey sealing substance that is hard as nails, looks like it was on your MK1 too. Did you bur that out with a Dremel. Finally my boat does not seem to have the caps across the pump wires for each pump but has just one on the feed into the black box. Should I do the same or swap and put one on each pump. In you opinion could the lid mod be achieved using 3d printed parts to make the frames
Great vids mate and can't wait for the next one. Would it be possible for you to do one on the set up of the handset you are using please ? I have just got one and not sure on some of the basic settings to use or point me in the direction of an idiots guide. Im not sure of what mode to set it up in etc. Also for your next project how about a Viper Storm (thats the one i'm trying to do)
Hi Dave great video’s I am a little confused as a novice with RC controls and ESC units. How does the single ESC unit work with the two pumps on each side . I went into my local RC shop and they gave 2 dual drive ESC units ( Hobbywing Quick run 880 brushed controllers) your help would be appreciated
Hi Norman, there’s a link in the video description of the wiring diagram or if you follow along in the video, it should show you how to wire up the four pumps with just two speed controllers. Good luck.
Hi Dave thanks I am trying to set up the ESC still unsure how 2 ESC will run the 4 motors? I am also going to fit my Tolson X pilot GPS system On thinking how that works do you think it would be better to run each pump on a separate ESC unit as the Tolson X pilot can only run 2 motors and it drives either Forward or Left /Right only?
Hi Dave hope you are well? Cani ask a question regarding the Microcat that I am upgrading Can you advise if the boat when set up with the 2ESC’s runs ‘forward’ with both pumps and ‘reverse’ the same? However when o want to turn either ‘left’or ‘right’ should I be able to set the pumps to work 1 in ‘forward’ and the opposite side in ‘reverse’ or should it only be 1 pump doing the turning? Sorry to be a pain Regards Norman
@@DaveMattockhi Dave can you advise if it’s possible to fit the Tolson Xpilot into my Microcat? It seems it wants to run random motors when testing the wiring?
Nicely done m8. Verry nice video again like before👍!! I have a question about the remote switch. I thinking about to use the original on/off switch on the boat. How should you wire it up and is it possible to do with the mosfet i already ordered?
Thanks very much! The original switch on the boat, is not latching, meaning that when you press it, the circuit is only closed momentarily. This would only switch on the mosfet whilst the switch is pressed. Once you release the switch, the mosfet would switch off again. With the remote switch, this uses a relay, which, when selected, keeps the circuit closed (and the mosfet on) until the remote is pressed again, switching it off. You could use a switch but it would need to be latching or look at bistable flip flop circuits, which toggle between an on off state, using momentary switches. Good luck.
@@DaveMattock ok thx. I found one flip flop switch with 10amp relais. If I understand correct i need to wire the flip flop switch after the original switch and then the mosfet switch?
@@gielgeurts9709 that’s the correct, the original switch would turn the flip flop circuit high (or low if turning the boat off), which would then turn on or off the mosfet 👍🏼
Hi Dave I have got to the part I’ve always struggled with I can’t get the remote to work I’ve got one lighting up but nothing on the mossfit have no idea how to wire it up apart from input to the box can you recommend a remote box ie the one you use or another similar ime so close but seemingly miles away what are the parameters for wiring the wires to the mossfit so it lights up it’s embarrassing me not getting past this simple😢 step the latest part I bought was for 85/ 250 v stupid I know but I did say I was stupid with this stuff
Hi dave, I'm going to be using the standard eco sounder still with my boat, will I need to use a step down for the power source since I've upgraded the batteries? I don't want to blow the board since the voltage of the lipos are higher. Cheers
Hi, yes I imagine you would. It sounds like it isn’t but If the boat is still wired as per Angling Technics, I would take a reading of the voltage supplied to the eco sounder with a multimeter before stripping the boat out. If you’ve already stripped the boat I would use an adjustable step down module and start with a low voltage, say 6v and check if it works ok. If it doesn’t, slowly increase the voltage in 1 volt increments until it does work. Just don’t go over 12v.
Hi Dave I've watched your videos on TH-cam and wondered if you can help me, buy the way, I'm a complete noob with RC but I can use a soldering iron. I have an old BSA Lakestar (Original Big Size) but it is FUBAR, I would like to convert it to 2.4ghz. I'ved looked at a FLYSKY FS-I6 2.4GHz 6 Channel Remote Controller Rc Transmitter and receiver. Would this be okay to use? I am hoping to use the mtroniks viper marine if they still work, I do know that one of the motors has burnt out, could recommend a replacement and I will replace both. The main problem for me is the hoppers and LEDS and how to incorporate these into the build, could you please offer any advice TIA P.S I don't have a big budget.
Dear Dave, I have a question. I bought the esc ‘s you suggested in the video from aliexpress. This esc only has a black and red wire. No blue and yellow as the one in your video. Should I just put the black on the black one and red on red? And what does this mean, that it only has forward and reverse? Thank you in advance!
Hi, the red and black wires on the Ali Express ESC’s are just a different colour to the blue and yellow ones in the video, they still do the same thing. Where I have connected the yellow and blue wires to the negative (black) cables on the pumps, you would connect the red and black ones instead. Say, the Ali Express red wire should be the yellow one in my video and the black is blue and take it from there. If you find the pumps aren’t working the right way (forwards is backwards and vice versa) then just swap the leads over from the ESC’s to the negative cables on the pumps.
@@DaveMattock lol, I have no idea… I intended to use the stock batteries, with the tx and rx I mentioned. My concern is it’s a 6v rx and I wondered if I would need a step down prior to the rx and the a step up after? I have no idea tbh guess I’m in over my hwad
Hi Dave, I have switched the Esc out for 2 hobbywing quickrun 880 dual Esc. This Esc has 2 motor output sets of wires.(2xblue 2xyellow) How should I connect the Esc wires to the right and left set of pumps? Positive direct from the switch to the positive of the pumps and blue wires from the Esc to the negative of the pumps?
Hi, I’m not sure to be honest, you’ll have to do a bit of trial and error, unfortunately. If you follow what I did in the video and the motors aren’t going in the right direction, just swap the leads over. I’m not sure that all ESC’s are made the same so I wouldn’t know the exact answer to this question.
@@DaveMattock Oke. Now I connect the positive on the pumps and the yellow on bow pump and the blue on the stern pumps. When i give throttle a little bit, all pump run full speed. Mixer looks oke so i think i try switch out some wires then. Thx for your quick response again👍
Hi Andy, unfortunately not. As far as I’m aware, the SP tackle board and puck pilot require the original Angling Technics speed controllers and wiring to work, whereas this involves replacing everything.
Do u know if there is a way the fix or tighten the flexing cable for the hopper on a mk3 procat plz. Cuz when i put bait in the hopper and i put the boat in the water and press forward on the remote the hopper opens. Thank help would be appriated . Thanks for these video's . Good stuff Dave
No when i press forward on the remote the hopper also opens . Someone said at AT that i need a need flexing cable or i need to tighten the flexing cable.
Im not sure if it cuz of the force of the water or if its something to do with the flexing cable. But the person from AT said on the phone that cuz i tryed to shut the hopper by hand, thats why i need either to tighten the flexing cable or to replay it. Any help would be appriated Dave plz Thanks
@@tariqzeb5774 sounds like an electrical fault if the hopper opens when you just press forward on the remote I.e. it just opens by itself when not in the water. If it was me, I would open the boat up and install a servo instead but I haven’t put a video together to show you how to do that. Join this group on Facebook and do a post of there, there maybe someone on there that knows how to resolve the problem without opening the boat up but it does sound like an electrical fault to me. facebook.com/groups/738301880275218/?ref=share
Hi Dave, I have my boat split right now doing GPS mod and want to upgrade the LED lights. What's the procedure for removing the old ones in a mk3? Looks like nothing more than hot glue but don't want to blast the shell with heat if not necessary.
Hi Chris, as I was replacing the old ones, I just popped the LEDs through the hull with flat bladed screw driver. Hopefully you’ve got yours out by now.
Hi wondering if you can help, I’ve got a microcat and doing this mod but can it be done on the fly sky FS-16x 10 channel handset if so can you show me please. Any help most appreciated
If I do all these mods exactly the same can I still use the stock batteries if I the power harness in series or would I have to use lipo’s? I started the build but could really use a little input from you, I have dm you on messenger. Ta
Hello, I have problems with the Flysky FS I6, I want to use channel 1 and 2 and I connected all the cables as shown in the diagram and then all 4 pumps turn, what am I doing wrong? I have not made any adjustments to the Flysky. best regards from Germany
Hi, without seeing the wiring, it's quite hard to comment but sounds like something isn't wired up correctly. When you say, all four pumps turn, are they doing this without any stick inputs from the receiver? Also, have you configured a mix on the Flysky FS I6 transmitter to mix the channels?
Hi Kieron, they wouldn’t work with the 4s Lipos unfortunately. Looks like they’re only rated for 2s Lipos, which would be a maximum voltage of around 8volts
@@barbelmaster73 I’ve never tried. You’d need 2 x 2s Lipos as the original wiring in the boat has the batteries wired in series. At least, if it doesn’t work, you’ve got some videos to show you how to rewire it afterwards 😀
@@barbelmaster73 if you wire up how I’ve done in the video, they’ll be parallel. If you just use Lipos in the boat without doing the rewire, they’ll need to be in series. Ie two 2s Lipos in series makes 4s.
Thanks Dave very instructional video, I`m ordering the parts right now , 1 question If I want a remote controlled searchlight how will I connect it thanks Henk
Thanks Henk, good stuff. When you say remote controlled search light, do you mean how would you turn it off and on? You could use the same RC dimmer switch or if you have a look at the guy who sells the dimmer switch on eBay, he has a shop, he also sells RC relays too, which would need to go on a separate channel on the receiver if you wanted the lights and the search light to operate independently.
Hi Dave - is there any chance you can post how to set the remote fob up to the relay unit please.? I'm pressing buttons and nothing is happening. The relay switch is identical to the one you're using but i didn't get any instructions with it... :( Any help would be a massive bonus mate. Cheers.
Hi Andy, sounds like there's either no power getting to it, the key fob hasn't been bound to the receiver or it's faulty. If you have a multimeter, check that there's 12v going to it and it's set up with the right polarity. Second, re-bind the key fob to the reciever. I have found some instructions online for bind the fob to the receiver, abeit in Chinglish: Learning and Remove Method: 1. Press the learning code. The indicator from on to off, loosen your finger, press any button of the remote control, the indicator flash 2 times and off. It mean you learn it successfully. (I think this means press the button and release it, press the button on the fob, the led on the relay unit should flash twice, which means the key fob is bound to the relay) 2. It can learn more than 12 PCS 2262 or 1527 chip with the different code wireless remote control 3. Remove/ Clean: Press the learning button about 8 seconds, the indicator turn on to off, it means the information that you keep have been removed successfully Or try step 3 first and then repeat step 1 to bind the fob to the relay. If this doesn't work, i'd try sending it back for a new one to see if it's faulty.
@@DaveMattock Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. Yeah, i've tested it there's definitely 12v going into it. When i try to re-bind the fob, i get three flashes and the led (on the receiver) stays on. I think it could be a faulty unit. Thanks a million for your help and support mate.
@@andypoole9758 no problem, one other thing you could try is to hold the button on the relay board down, then apply 12v to the relay board, then release the button, then press a button on the fob, see if that will bind it. If that doesn’t work, sounds faulty. Never had one that hasn’t been bound when I purchased it so sounds like a faulty unit.
Hi Dave, I’ve done everything as per your video , just got my batteries from china and every time I connect the first battery it arcs when connecting, but if I remove the remote switch they connect fine without a arc, I’ve gone over and over the wiring and it’s exactly the same as yours and now haven’t a clue what else it could be, is there something I’m missing?
Happy new Dave, I’m away at the moment I’ll get a picture of it when I’m back, when I plug the battery in it arcs the connector is all black and burnt, like it’s welding it’s self together, but when I unplug the remote switch both batteries connect fine with no sparks
@@DaveMattock Hi Dave manged to stop the arc when plugging the batteries in, my dodgy soldering, ive had to remote switches now and I cant get them to work like yours does, get the light on the switch but no light coming on the mosfet tigger switch? drive.google.com/file/d/1-lTW3-VgziKt8vLoahTlA1Vj5JOZG0LC/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1m9lep4CE7UmOtT2rwP1F3ldbuBdbFhsM/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1DYmgS-ArZc23WMGSn_u4grHfdrfQXqHy/view?usp=sharing
So I’m having an issues with the range and signal, using the same tx as you and an archer a4 it seems that if anything gets between the two I lose signal and the distance is only around 50m? Any ideals
I’ve just uploaded part 4 where I did a range test for you, showing the RSSI I get at various distances. Where have you got the receiver mounted? It’s not below the water line is it? Do you get the same issues when the boat is out of the water?
Hi. I am just about to starting to mod my mk3 microcat, and these tutorials are of great help. So thank you soo much.
Great videos, gave me the confidence to open up my microcat and have a go myself, looking forward to the next one on how to seal the boat and stiil have access to the inside, keep um coming 👍
Ime an oap and hopeless with electrics but have followed your conversion and nearly finished my microcat upgrade I’ve done 2.4 g conversions to all sorts of baitboats but that was 15 years ago I thought maybe you could do a set of wiring that would help us duffers I struggled to do mine but its ready to be put in now just got to attach relay and mossfit well done you !!!
Hi can anybody help me I’ve done Dave’s rewiring but used the normal 6v lead acid batteries but can’t get the remotes to work I’ve bought 4 so far one lights up and switches off but no connection to the misfit how do you wire these up I’ve followed the videos but not sure if the wire on the battery loom goes to the power in on the remote this is stuff that really confuses me most of these remote switches have power in. - + and then a few terminals N line L line Com no idea what that means just so frustrating gonna have one more go then sell it as it is help me please 🥲🥲
Very useful video thank you.
Just bought a microcat second hand that is in full working order so won't be messing but I'm already looking for broken boats on eBay 🤪
Fantastic stuff. Clears up my only queries! I ended up using a cheap chinese esc to use as led dimmers, works great in my procats. Looking forward to pt4 👍
Thanks Paul, glad you liked it 👍🏼
Wauw! Great project, i love it 👌💪! A Skarp S60 Mod to brushless engines and lithium ion batteries can be cool. I am working on such a mod myself, but the feeder hatch magnets are challenging anyway.
Great series have an anatec cat and toying with doing a brushless conversion ..
Love it! Amazing to watch how you do these things. Great knowledge to have!
really enjoying these video's and really looking forward to the next one as I am really interested to see how you are going to make the boat more accessible for maintenance.
Thanks very much, glad you’re enjoying them 👍🏼
Really great content Dave, love the 3D Modelling as well (as an ex-draughtsman) very cool. Would love to see what you can do with a Viper Legacy XT.
Awesome video dude you make it look easy 👍
Thanks Merlin_23, much appreciated 👍🏼
Top quality video 😍👍
Cheers Shaun Kelly, thanks very much 👍🏼
Great instructional video
Thanks Charles Pitt, glad you like it 👍🏼
Top work Dave, really enjoying these videos. How about an AT Standard bait boat next? I've modded mine to make the 12v sla battery swappable but i'd be interested to see how you do it.
Thanks Ben Stock, much appreciated. I have already redone a Standard Bait Boat. I rebuilt it for a mate of mine and there’s a video on my channel: th-cam.com/video/uQx64dYmkKI/w-d-xo.html
Hello Dave, I'll echo what people are saying, what you do is amazing 🤯 im sure you've been asked loads of times but is it just your own boat you modify or do you do the general public? I have a microcat and very interested in the door servo conversion you do, also i fish a weedy water, is there anything you know of to stop the doors catching on the weed once opened? I know, drive round it lol.
Great videos Dave 👏 look forward to hearing from you.
Jason
Thanks Jason, much appreciated. I just do the videos to help people do the mods themselves as I don’t have time to do other people’s boats unfortunately. Regarding the weed, I can’t really think of a way of solving the issue of them catching on it. The only way to do it would be to redesign the hoppers so that they’re not opened by gravity but have some sort of mechanism that both opens and closes them. That would be quite the redesign though.
Please get your hands on a Shuttle and take us through that as well......Don't have a MCat but enojyed all your Tec Videos thanks
This is really great content thanks - any chance you could explain or do a clip on how GPS can be added >???
Thanks Hookey, much appreciated. Adding GPS is coming shortly in one of the next episodes.
@@DaveMattock cool - thats really great - I am modifying my AT pro-cat and would love to get it to use GPS for waypoints and auto return home etc...
Many thanks for the useful video. May I ask why there is the need to use fireproof jackets and a metal box for when charging the lithium batteries? I'm considering getting some for my boat
You’re welcome Leon Ashton-Leatherland, thanks for watching. I found this on Google which explains how and why you should have some fireproof bags for Lipos: www.dslrpros.com/dslrpros-blog/why-lipo-bags-are-essential-for-battery-safety/
Another good video 👍
Thanks Matthew Griffiths 👍🏼 Glad you’re enjoying them.
Hi, when are the next episodes coming ? Looking forward to watching. I'm making progress with my build now, cheers :)
It’s nearly done, doing some more today so not too much longer
@@DaveMattock hi do you do upgrades for other people's boats
@@craftycarper.carpcrazy7131 I don’t unfortunately, just do the videos to help people out who want to have a go themselves.
Great videos, was wondering when part 4 is going to be ready
Not long now, it’s been quite a lot of doing things to see what works (and what doesn’t). I’ve finalised it now, just finishing that off and then need to edit the video. Shouldn’t be too much longer 👍🏼
thank you
Hi, finished the boat, all good thanks. Having problems binding the radio to the receiver ! any tips greatly appreciated, thanks Dave I've enjoyed the build. Took longer than I thought it would though :))
Good stuff, nice work. Did you buy the FrSky X-Lite S 2.4GHz Transmitter and the R86 receiver?
@@DaveMattock Hi, yes I bought the exact radio gear that you advised Dave, had a good look on you tube but still no luck, any help will be appreciated :)
@@davidlowe392 The latest version of the radio, the S Lite, doesn’t bind with D8 receivers, which is what the R86 receiver is. Under the links from part 2, there’s a link to the module you’ll need for the S Lite to bind to the R86 receiver.
@@DaveMattock Thanks Dave , ended up being a faulty receiver , chap at the model shop said its very rare ! Thanks for the kind help. Echo sounder is my next project :) best regards :)
Hi .great video
I have angling technics baitboat .but now seems like one of my motors stays on and will not behave it's self .even when using remote
Hi Dave,
I got the hopper mod done and making the wiring complete.😊
I did see on the video that you plug in the red wires from the BEC of Esc's in the receiver. Did you not burn your receiver? I think you may only use 1 red wire if you use multiple Esc setup?
Hi Giel, I’ve always plugged both of the positive wires of the esc’s into the receiver. Some people say don’t but the positive rails on the receiver, across the channels, is parallel (not series) so if anything, plugging both of the positive wires to the receiver will enable it to draw more current, which it uses to power the servos. It’s up to you how you’d like to do it but I’ve done this countless times and never had an issue.
@@DaveMattock Thx for you quick response.👍 If you done it many times before I will do it the same way👍
Thx again🤟
Hi Dave finally some decent content for the Microcat excellent vids mate I am mid project and will be following closely thanks.
Will you be covering the removal of the pumps from the boat ? Also love the camera that views the lake bed in your other video will you be adding this to the Microcat as I would definitely be adding.
Keep them coming cheers
Thanks Evie Read, much appreciated. I wasn’t planning on removing the pumps from mine but if I need to, I’ll definitely do a video on it. Camera and video transmitter will be coming in the video after next 👍🏼
great easy to follow guide . well done and thanks for sharing. where can i get the cad file from to print boat, can it be converted to an sti file / many thanks. keep up these great vids .
Thanks Sally, the link is in the video description to my Google drive where you can get the 3D model from. I did convert it to an sti file but it wasn’t much use as none of the wires were coloured, they all just came out a grey colour so didn’t think it would be much use.
Great videos dave I have a mk1 microcat,,could you do a video on self priming mod,,how to video
Thanks very much, I didn’t actually do the set priming mod myself but you would just need to get yourself 4 M5 bleed nipples, some silicone tubing and an M5 tap to tap holes to the pumps where the white plastic meets the red plastic. Screw the bleed nipples into the tapped holes, seal them up and attach the silicone hose to those. Same at the stern of the boat. Do the exact same thing there and that’s it.
@Dave Mattock thanks buddy sounds easy enough 👍 I'll get it sorted by wknd,,thanks for information
Stunning video! Aren t you afraid that 4s lipo are too much voltage for the bilge pumps? Thanks!
Thanks Alberto Graziadei, much appreciated. I’ve run those Rule Bilge Pumps on 4s on my other boat for over 7 years now and never had an issue. Never had to replace them, they’re still the same pumps I put in it originally.
Dave
On the microcats i thought the led flashed or went on/off when doors opened. Is that something easy to add.
Hi Dave, it’s something I’ll be covering when I run through the advanced LED set up in the later episodes
Hi Dave
Long shot but did you find a solution to this ?
🎉hi I’ve a microcat and broken the charger last year Iam really missing the edge it gives do you do the conversion for others plz
Hi Matthew, I don’t unfortunately. I just do the videos to help people do it themselves. Apologies.
Hi, do you have to adjust the step down module for the output voltage required ? sorry if this is a daft question, cheers :) Thanks for your time
Hi david lowe, yeah, you have to step the voltage down from the input voltage to 12v. There should either be a potentiometer on the step down module, where you would provide the input voltage to the module, and then alter the output voltage by turning the potentiometer until you get the required voltage. You would need a multimeter to read the output voltage. Or, if you use the link I gave in the video to the step down modules I used, there are solder bridges on the back of them that you bridge with solder to get the required voltage. You do need to break the copper bridge on the back also, which is what bypasses the potentiometer. Take a look at this link if you’re unsure:
www.joom.com/en/products/5d1c778a8b4513010198fde7
@@DaveMattock Thanks for the reply, its easy when someone explains !!!!! Hope my queries help somebody else too. Thanks again Dave, I'm looking forward to more videos from you. Best regards :)
Great videos Dave, and extremely helpful.
Just a quick question. Does it matter which 12v remote control you use? Your link is for 6 channel but does it matter how many channels it has? Thanks
Hi Craig, thanks very much. It looks like the link I’ve set up is no longer working. Not sure why the original title says 6 channel as it’s only one channel (either on or off).
I’ve found another one for you, which is the same as what you need but the layout is slightly different I.E the voltage in and relay terminals are all up one of the circuit board. It’ll work exactly the same though.
amzn.to/3ZrsOot
@@DaveMattock Brilliant thanks for the reply. I'm going to try it on my storm 2 🤞
Hi again Dave, I have just finished all the wiring apart from the led's. I'm now having problems setting up my transmitter! I'm using the flysky fs-i6x, but just can't get my head around the set up any help ie step by step guide would be appreciated. Cheeky I know but thank in advance Kieron.
Hi Dave, I've sorted the transmitter out. Port pumps are not working at 100% power so I have ordered 2 new one's and was wondering if you had changed them yourself and had any advice.
When is the next video out mate?
Hi Matthew, I’m currently working on it, should be a couple of weeks. Quite a bit of work involved with this one.
great video. can I simply replace the lead battery with 7,4 V lipo battery ?
super!!! i would like to do this to a procat mk1 i have what would i need to do this if your able to help.many thanks
Thanks Alan, you would need everything in the video but instead of wiring the 4 pumps up, you would just need to wire the two motors instead. The blue and yellow wires from each of the escs would be wired directly to the two motors in the procat, instead of having a permanent live to each of the 4 pumps
I came across these videos whilst searching for a way to add gps with autopilot and swap my Microcat MK2 to 2.4gz. I have a few questions for you.
Firstly how did you get the old esc boxes off the pumps and side of the boat. They seem stuck fast on my boat and the body is so flimsy.
Also the LEDs and other stuff is plastered in a grey sealing substance that is hard as nails, looks like it was on your MK1 too. Did you bur that out with a Dremel.
Finally my boat does not seem to have the caps across the pump wires for each pump but has just one on the feed into the black box. Should I do the same or swap and put one on each pump.
In you opinion could the lid mod be achieved using 3d printed parts to make the frames
Great vids mate and can't wait for the next one. Would it be possible for you to do one on the set up of the handset you are using please ? I have just got one and not sure on some of the basic settings to use or point me in the direction of an idiots guide. Im not sure of what mode to set it up in etc. Also for your next project how about a Viper Storm (thats the one i'm trying to do)
I can t wait for episode 4! When it will be released?
It’s coming, just finishing up the lid and then need to edit the video.
Hi dave do you have to modify ESCs to wire both leads to negatives on motors?
Hi Dave great video’s I am a little confused as a novice with RC controls and ESC units. How does the single ESC unit work with the two pumps on each side . I went into my local RC shop and they gave 2 dual drive ESC units ( Hobbywing Quick run 880 brushed controllers) your help would be appreciated
Hi Norman, there’s a link in the video description of the wiring diagram or if you follow along in the video, it should show you how to wire up the four pumps with just two speed controllers. Good luck.
Hi Dave thanks I am trying to set up the ESC still unsure how 2 ESC will run the 4 motors? I am also going to fit my Tolson X pilot GPS system
On thinking how that works do you think it would be better to run each pump on a separate ESC unit as the Tolson X pilot can only run 2 motors and it drives either Forward or Left /Right only?
Hi Dave hope you are well? Cani ask a question regarding the Microcat that I am upgrading
Can you advise if the boat when set up with the 2ESC’s runs ‘forward’ with both pumps and ‘reverse’ the same? However when o want to turn either ‘left’or ‘right’ should I be able to set the pumps to work 1 in ‘forward’ and the opposite side in ‘reverse’ or should it only be 1 pump doing the turning?
Sorry to be a pain
Regards
Norman
@@DaveMattockhi Dave can you advise if it’s possible to fit the Tolson Xpilot into my Microcat? It seems it wants to run random motors when testing the wiring?
Nicely done m8. Verry nice video again like before👍!!
I have a question about the remote switch. I thinking about to use the original on/off switch on the boat. How should you wire it up and is it possible to do with the mosfet i already ordered?
Thanks very much! The original switch on the boat, is not latching, meaning that when you press it, the circuit is only closed momentarily. This would only switch on the mosfet whilst the switch is pressed. Once you release the switch, the mosfet would switch off again. With the remote switch, this uses a relay, which, when selected, keeps the circuit closed (and the mosfet on) until the remote is pressed again, switching it off. You could use a switch but it would need to be latching or look at bistable flip flop circuits, which toggle between an on off state, using momentary switches. Good luck.
@@DaveMattock ok thx. I found one flip flop switch with 10amp relais. If I understand correct i need to wire the flip flop switch after the original switch and then the mosfet switch?
@@gielgeurts9709 that’s the correct, the original switch would turn the flip flop circuit high (or low if turning the boat off), which would then turn on or off the mosfet 👍🏼
@@DaveMattock thx
Hi there, can you tell me why are you using 4s lipo's? Would 3s not be more than adequate?
Hi Dave I have got to the part I’ve always struggled with I can’t get the remote to work I’ve got one lighting up but nothing on the mossfit have no idea how to wire it up apart from input to the box can you recommend a remote box ie the one you use or another similar ime so close but seemingly miles away what are the parameters for wiring the wires to the mossfit so it lights up it’s embarrassing me not getting past this simple😢 step the latest part I bought was for 85/ 250 v stupid I know but I did say I was stupid with this stuff
Hi could I use my spectrum DX8 GEN 2 instead of buying a new radio ? cheers Dave. brilliant videos :)
Cheers david lowe. Yeah, if you have a spektrum receiver that has PWM then you can do this. You can do the mods with any radio 👍🏼
@@DaveMattock Thanks Dave , brilliant :)
Any chance of retro fitting video on auto pilot for a procat mk4 🤣👍
Hi dave sorry to ask do you know if I can change the on off swich on a viper esc
Hi, yeah, I would have thought so, it will just be a switch. Nothing particularly special about them on the viper escs
Hi dave, I'm going to be using the standard eco sounder still with my boat, will I need to use a step down for the power source since I've upgraded the batteries? I don't want to blow the board since the voltage of the lipos are higher. Cheers
Hi, yes I imagine you would. It sounds like it isn’t but If the boat is still wired as per Angling Technics, I would take a reading of the voltage supplied to the eco sounder with a multimeter before stripping the boat out. If you’ve already stripped the boat I would use an adjustable step down module and start with a low voltage, say 6v and check if it works ok. If it doesn’t, slowly increase the voltage in 1 volt increments until it does work. Just don’t go over 12v.
Cheers dave thought as much its all stripped so il get a step down for it start at 6v and go from there.
New to the videos but getting the urge to split my boat!
Could you wire up li-ion batteries the same way?
I hear they are safer than lipo batteries.
Yeah, they’ll be the same voltage as Lipos, just different chemistry
Hi Dave
I've watched your videos on TH-cam and wondered if you can help me, buy the way, I'm a complete noob with RC but I can use a soldering iron.
I have an old BSA Lakestar (Original Big Size) but it is FUBAR, I would like to convert it to 2.4ghz. I'ved looked at a FLYSKY FS-I6 2.4GHz 6 Channel Remote Controller Rc Transmitter and receiver.
Would this be okay to use? I am hoping to use the mtroniks viper marine if they still work, I do know that one of the motors has burnt out, could recommend a replacement and I will replace both.
The main problem for me is the hoppers and LEDS and how to incorporate these into the build, could you please offer any advice TIA
P.S I don't have a big budget.
re you planning to add sonar and autopilot to the project?
There’s already sonar on the boat and yes, planning on doing a GPS auto pilot on in later episodes.
Dear Dave, I have a question. I bought the esc ‘s you suggested in the video from aliexpress. This esc only has a black and red wire. No blue and yellow as the one in your video. Should I just put the black on the black one and red on red? And what does this mean, that it only has forward and reverse?
Thank you in advance!
Hi, the red and black wires on the Ali Express ESC’s are just a different colour to the blue and yellow ones in the video, they still do the same thing. Where I have connected the yellow and blue wires to the negative (black) cables on the pumps, you would connect the red and black ones instead. Say, the Ali Express red wire should be the yellow one in my video and the black is blue and take it from there. If you find the pumps aren’t working the right way (forwards is backwards and vice versa) then just swap the leads over from the ESC’s to the negative cables on the pumps.
Dave thank you so much for the quick reply! I ordered al the same parts as you used in your video. Going to start al the wiring next week.
@@benjaminmans4360 good luck. Just follow the video and it’ll work like clockwork 👍🏼
Hi Dave. Complete noob to RC stuff. Would I need 1 speed controller for each of the pumps?
Hi, you only need two speed controllers, there’s a wiring diagram in the links in the description
Just wondering. Which receiver have you used because you’ve mentioned two…
Use the R86 one, it’s the standard PWM receiver. Like the one that’s normally in the microcat
@@DaveMattock could I not use these, Flysky FS-I6 AFHDS 2.4GHz 6CH Transmitter For RC Model + FS-IA6 Receiver V3T8?
@@initiateddeano2552 yeah, you can use whatever transmitter and receiver you like, if the receiver has PWM outputs, it’ll work.
@@DaveMattock lol, I have no idea… I intended to use the stock batteries, with the tx and rx I mentioned. My concern is it’s a 6v rx and I wondered if I would need a step down prior to the rx and the a step up after? I have no idea tbh guess I’m in over my hwad
Hiya mate I've got an led gone on my microcat and the fish finder has stopped. Is that something you can fix ? If so how much we talking
Hi Dave,
I have switched the Esc out for 2 hobbywing quickrun 880 dual Esc.
This Esc has 2 motor output sets of wires.(2xblue 2xyellow)
How should I connect the Esc wires to the right and left set of pumps?
Positive direct from the switch to the positive of the pumps and blue wires from the Esc to the negative of the pumps?
Hi, I’m not sure to be honest, you’ll have to do a bit of trial and error, unfortunately. If you follow what I did in the video and the motors aren’t going in the right direction, just swap the leads over. I’m not sure that all ESC’s are made the same so I wouldn’t know the exact answer to this question.
@@DaveMattock Oke. Now I connect the positive on the pumps and the yellow on bow pump and the blue on the stern pumps. When i give throttle a little bit, all pump run full speed. Mixer looks oke so i think i try switch out some wires then.
Thx for your quick response again👍
Hiya mate, I’ve got a microcat that I need to reseal as it’s leaking badly, what sealant would you recommend?
Dow 791:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194901765167?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eglnop3gsr6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Xt-7YkPJRqG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi Dave could these mods been done on a microcat with the sp board and puck pilot
Hi Andy, unfortunately not. As far as I’m aware, the SP tackle board and puck pilot require the original Angling Technics speed controllers and wiring to work, whereas this involves replacing everything.
@@DaveMattock cheers
Do u know if there is a way the fix or tighten the flexing cable for the hopper on a mk3 procat plz. Cuz when i put bait in the hopper and i put the boat in the water and press forward on the remote the hopper opens. Thank help would be appriated . Thanks for these video's . Good stuff Dave
Thanks Tariq Zeb, do you mean the force of the water running underneath the boat opens the hopper door by itself?
No when i press forward on the remote the hopper also opens . Someone said at AT that i need a need flexing cable or i need to tighten the flexing cable.
Im not sure if it cuz of the force of the water or if its something to do with the flexing cable. But the person from AT said on the phone that cuz i tryed to shut the hopper by hand, thats why i need either to tighten the flexing cable or to replay it. Any help would be appriated Dave plz Thanks
@@tariqzeb5774 sounds like an electrical fault if the hopper opens when you just press forward on the remote I.e. it just opens by itself when not in the water. If it was me, I would open the boat up and install a servo instead but I haven’t put a video together to show you how to do that. Join this group on Facebook and do a post of there, there maybe someone on there that knows how to resolve the problem without opening the boat up but it does sound like an electrical fault to me.
facebook.com/groups/738301880275218/?ref=share
Ok thanks for the help Dave . I will try to put a video on fb . Thanks
Hi matt ,,ive got mk1 cat ,,my futaba remote won't sink with the boat,,its fully charged aswell any ideas please ,regards james
Hi Dave, I have my boat split right now doing GPS mod and want to upgrade the LED lights. What's the procedure for removing the old ones in a mk3? Looks like nothing more than hot glue but don't want to blast the shell with heat if not necessary.
Hi Chris, as I was replacing the old ones, I just popped the LEDs through the hull with flat bladed screw driver. Hopefully you’ve got yours out by now.
Hi wondering if you can help, I’ve got a microcat and doing this mod but can it be done on the fly sky FS-16x 10 channel handset if so can you show me please. Any help most appreciated
If I do all these mods exactly the same can I still use the stock batteries if I the power harness in series or would I have to use lipo’s?
I started the build but could really use a little input from you, I have dm you on messenger. Ta
Yeah, you can use the lead acid batteries if you keep them in series
Hello, I have problems with the Flysky FS I6, I want to use channel 1 and 2 and I connected all the cables as shown in the diagram and then all 4 pumps turn, what am I doing wrong? I have not made any adjustments to the Flysky. best regards from Germany
Hi, without seeing the wiring, it's quite hard to comment but sounds like something isn't wired up correctly. When you say, all four pumps turn, are they doing this without any stick inputs from the receiver? Also, have you configured a mix on the Flysky FS I6 transmitter to mix the channels?
Hi Dave, quick question will 2 Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 60A ESCs work? Or do i need to get something with a better voltage rating.
Hi Kieron, they wouldn’t work with the 4s Lipos unfortunately. Looks like they’re only rated for 2s Lipos, which would be a maximum voltage of around 8volts
@@DaveMattock Thanks Dave, I will sorce some new ESCs tomorrow 👍🏼
Hiya Dave do you mod the boats for other people or is it just an instructional video?
Hi Lazarus, I just do the videos to help people out who want to have a go at doing it themselves.
@@DaveMattock is it an easy job to just change the batteries to lipo? Without opening the boat up?
@@barbelmaster73 I’ve never tried. You’d need 2 x 2s Lipos as the original wiring in the boat has the batteries wired in series. At least, if it doesn’t work, you’ve got some videos to show you how to rewire it afterwards 😀
@@DaveMattock ok thanks the lipos need to wired in parallel don’t they? Thank mate
@@barbelmaster73 if you wire up how I’ve done in the video, they’ll be parallel. If you just use Lipos in the boat without doing the rewire, they’ll need to be in series. Ie two 2s Lipos in series makes 4s.
See post below, do you use an external aerial with the tx? Is so what one
No, I don’t use any external antenna with the transmitter
@@DaveMattock what range do you get? Have you monitored the rssi? Mine is only at 45 ish when right next to the boat or rx
Thanks Dave very instructional video,
I`m ordering the parts right now ,
1 question If I want a remote controlled searchlight how will I connect it
thanks Henk
Thanks Henk, good stuff. When you say remote controlled search light, do you mean how would you turn it off and on? You could use the same RC dimmer switch or if you have a look at the guy who sells the dimmer switch on eBay, he has a shop, he also sells RC relays too, which would need to go on a separate channel on the receiver if you wanted the lights and the search light to operate independently.
Hi Dave - is there any chance you can post how to set the remote fob up to the relay unit please.? I'm pressing buttons and nothing is happening. The relay switch is identical to the one you're using but i didn't get any instructions with it... :( Any help would be a massive bonus mate. Cheers.
Hi Andy, sounds like there's either no power getting to it, the key fob hasn't been bound to the receiver or it's faulty. If you have a multimeter, check that there's 12v going to it and it's set up with the right polarity. Second, re-bind the key fob to the reciever. I have found some instructions online for bind the fob to the receiver, abeit in Chinglish:
Learning and Remove Method:
1. Press the learning code. The indicator from on to off, loosen your finger, press any button of the remote control, the indicator flash 2 times and off. It mean you learn it successfully. (I think this means press the button and release it, press the button on the fob, the led on the relay unit should flash twice, which means the key fob is bound to the relay)
2. It can learn more than 12 PCS 2262 or 1527 chip with the different code wireless remote control
3. Remove/ Clean: Press the learning button about 8 seconds, the indicator turn on to off, it means the information that you keep have been removed successfully
Or try step 3 first and then repeat step 1 to bind the fob to the relay. If this doesn't work, i'd try sending it back for a new one to see if it's faulty.
@@DaveMattock Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. Yeah, i've tested it there's definitely 12v going into it. When i try to re-bind the fob, i get three flashes and the led (on the receiver) stays on. I think it could be a faulty unit. Thanks a million for your help and support mate.
@@andypoole9758 no problem, one other thing you could try is to hold the button on the relay board down, then apply 12v to the relay board, then release the button, then press a button on the fob, see if that will bind it. If that doesn’t work, sounds faulty. Never had one that hasn’t been bound when I purchased it so sounds like a faulty unit.
@@DaveMattock Hi Dave. It's a long shot but you don't happen to have any spare microcat mk1 main boards for sale do you..? 😊
Hi Andy,
I have the main board from mk1 and the original Esc with echo sounder for sale of you still want it😊
Hi Dave,
I’ve done everything as per your video , just got my batteries from china and every time I connect the first battery it arcs when connecting, but if I remove the remote switch they connect fine without a arc, I’ve gone over and over the wiring and it’s exactly the same as yours and now haven’t a clue what else it could be, is there something I’m missing?
Hi Jim, I'm not sure to be honest without seeing the wiring. When you say arc, what is it doing? Blowing the fuse?
Happy new Dave, I’m away at the moment I’ll get a picture of it when I’m back, when I plug the battery in it arcs the connector is all black and burnt, like it’s welding it’s self together, but when I unplug the remote switch both batteries connect fine with no sparks
@@DaveMattock Hi Dave manged to stop the arc when plugging the batteries in, my dodgy soldering, ive had to remote switches now and I cant get them to work like yours does, get the light on the switch but no light coming on the mosfet tigger switch? drive.google.com/file/d/1-lTW3-VgziKt8vLoahTlA1Vj5JOZG0LC/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1m9lep4CE7UmOtT2rwP1F3ldbuBdbFhsM/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1DYmgS-ArZc23WMGSn_u4grHfdrfQXqHy/view?usp=sharing
So I’m having an issues with the range and signal, using the same tx as you and an archer a4 it seems that if anything gets between the two I lose signal and the distance is only around 50m? Any ideals
I’ve just uploaded part 4 where I did a range test for you, showing the RSSI I get at various distances. Where have you got the receiver mounted? It’s not below the water line is it? Do you get the same issues when the boat is out of the water?
Could it be the sonar that is messing up the signal?
Bought a lot of the stuff, could use a little support with a few q,s if you could accept my message via messenger..
Hi, if you add your question here, i'll answer it. That way, if anyone else has the same issue as you, they can find the answer here.