How to replace the control arms Clio mk4 🚗
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2024
- BUY THE AUTO PARTS you need for the operation : 👉 bit.ly/cheapAutoparts 👈
📱 DOWNLOAD THE APP : 🍎 bit.ly/MCD12AppStore, 🤖 : bit.ly/MCD12PlayStore 📱
⬇︎⬇︎ 🔥 🔧🔧🔧 🔥⬇︎⬇︎
🛠📏⚙ FIND ALL THE PARTS AND TOOLS NEEDED AND RECOMMENDED BY USETOOL EN ⚙📏🛠
Needed parts:
- Multi-purpose grease
- Control arms : bit.ly/suspension5013959EN and bit.ly/suspension5013960EN
Discover a vast array of services that will help you run the maintenance of your car: vehicle user manuals, maintenance planning and mechanics-oriented tutorials!
Control arms on a Renault Clio mk4.
Discover the world of UseTool EN on
Needed tools:
-💣🤖🏆The complete toolbox recommended by UseTool ES to repair your Clio mk4 : bit.ly/supertoolboxEN 🏆🤖💣
- Ball Joint Separator
- 18mm Offset wrench
- Torx E13 socket
- 16mm spanner
- Socket wrench
- Sanding paper
- Wheel lug wrench
- Torque wrench
- 13mm socket
- 16mm socket
- 18mm socket
🔝💪Safely lift your Clio mk4 with the hydraulic jack: bit.ly/upupupen and axle stands: bit.ly/axlesen recommended by UseTool EN 💪🔝
- Hydraulic jack
- Wooden peg
- Axle stand
🚗📢💡 RESOURCES 💡📢🚗
Usetool's warnings
Before presenting the new control arm, grease the holding screws as this will make their reassembly easier and avoid any for of jamming.
Usetool's infos
No particular piece of information necessary to carry out this operation
📽❤️🚨 USEFUL VIDEOS 🚨❤️📽
- [ USETOOL'S TIPS & TRICKS ] Lifting your vehicle safely : • How to (PROPERLY) lift...
- [ USETOOL'S TIPS & TRICKS ] Removing and reinstalling a wheel : • ASTUCE : Pneu crevé ? ...
Space Race by tubebackr | / tubebackr
Music promoted by www.free-stock-music.com
Terms and conditions of the offer : www.mister-auto.co.uk/operati...
Disclaimer: This video was created for information purposes and does not guarantee the outcome of actions undertaken.
To ensure that you see the best results, we recommend getting in contact with qualified technicians who will carry out the installation.
This video provides tips and recommendations that can be useful when repairing or changing parts. MCD12 and its partners cannot be held responsible for any physical and material damage that comes from the poor installation or incorrect interpretation of the video content.
This video was created for information purposes and does not guarantee any outcomes. The user is solely responsible for the incorrect use of repair machines, tools and parts, in particular if these may cause physical damage. MCD12 and its partners recommend taking great care and carefully following the safety rules when carrying out the repair or replacement of any parts. Please keep in mind that using poor quality parts compromises the safety of the driver when on the road.
0:00 Intro
0:15 Remove the control arm
3:00 Replace the control arm back - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
BUY THE AUTO PARTS you need for the operation : 👉 bit.ly/cheapAutoparts 👈
📱 DOWNLOAD THE APP : 🍎 bit.ly/MCD12AppStore, 🤖 : bit.ly/MCD12PlayStore 📱
⬇︎⬇︎ 🔥 🔧🔧🔧 🔥⬇︎⬇︎
Good instructive video, thanks you!.
The Renault engineers who built the car should have a public flogging though. Having to remove that cradle is absolutely bonkers.
You can do it without removing the cradle completely.
th-cam.com/video/RQN-zcoYdlc/w-d-xo.html
Indeed, but doesn't look too bad to do.
Thanks for posting the video, not sure if it’s a mistake or just different on the mk4 I’ve just worked on but the e13 bolt (as mentioned in the video) was actually an e16.
Just done this job…you seem to be right…went to an auto shop and they had no clue about these…amazon Torx Plus External Profile or EP socket sets, NEVER have an EP13. I conclude, this is an error - the nearest ordinary socket that sort-of badly fits, and rounds this long EP16 bolt off, is a standard 13mm socket. Naturally, I stuck it on with my new impact driver and watched as bits of metal flew off. Bolt head or socket or both. Manually doing this, I found out really it was my jacking point was wrong, too near the join of the subframe to bumper frame. Or, bending the subframe under the weight of the car, that is unnecessary but it’s what I did, not realising this subframe isn’t that strong near the end. Must be an EP16, seen it elsewhere.
Thanks so much for a very informative video. I've now ordered my parts. Huge thumbs up. 👌
With pleasure! That's what we're here for :) Which site did you order from?
Did this job today followed the tutorial 👍
Hi can find a tutorial on changing wiper motor for mk 4 is it the same as MK3?
Thanks
Hi. Very informative. Great video and useful. Please tell me, the first torque spec is 70 Nm, not 170, right? Many thanks in advance
Please make a video about changing sway bar bushings (not the linkage) on the Renault Clio IV. Because most of the Clio's make a lot of noise when going on speedbumps when cold temperatures appear (below -10°C). Those are located on the subframe. Please help with this! Love the content.
@@AlexDMegara yes, if you mean noise when going over speedbumps when cold outside.
@@AlexDMegaraWhat helped a lot for me is lubricating and massaging generous amount of silicone paste on all edges of the 'bump stop' with your hands or gloves. The bump stops (rubber top part of the shock absorber in the front of the car left and right) located under the shock absorber dust cover. The Renault dealer also sells silicone paste for this purpose. Otherwise Amazon works fine for finding quality silicone paste. Search on Google 'bumpstops clio 4' and you will find the part you have to lubricate. This procedure has to be repeated when the bump stops are making a lot of noise again. It is not 100% fixed because the 'sway bar bushings' of the Clio 4 are also making noise when driving over speedbumps when cold outside. Let me know if you have more questions.
How can I order the lower arm?
Perhaps I missed it but the critical aspect of installation of lower suspension arms/control arms, is to load up the new arm with the weight of the car, then and only then, finish by tightening the bolts in the ‘normally-loaded’ position. This is the only way to avoid premature failure of the rubber bushings. Lastly, rust. Corrosion makes this job a pig’s ear. It’s embarrassing to tell your wife, it’s taken 3 days to do a job - one day per bolt. I exaggerate, but there’s only 3 bolts holding this component in position, and even with an impact driver, the awkwardness of getting to the actual job, is so,bad, Renault have deliberately designed it this way. It’s also obvious there must be an official Renault tool, that gets into the crevice of that bumper frame, and reaches that E13, thus avoiding removing the bumper frame and that spacer/shock absorber.
To remove the bumper frame bolt on one side, there is a small (8 inches/200mm long) plastic panel, it is RIVETED on - not shown in this video. The two fasteners look like plastic poppers, but they are not, they are a weird type of rivet made of aluminum alloy/aluminium alloy, painted black. I only found this, after wrenching one of them out, torn in two parts.
Renault have excelled themselves on this one. The owner’s handbook, doesn’t even tell you how much oil the engine takes. Renault have decided, not only will they not help buyers to maintain the vehicle, but they will actively put in tripwires and complex, unknowable features, that will catch the amateur out. In fact, they’ll catch the professional non-Renault-trained and equipped out, as well. That E13 could literally just have been in the bumper frame, with an ordinary bolt head and a suitable opening for a full-size 1/2” wrench extension and universal joint with the 13mm or 16mm bolt head on it. Then, you;d just wind it right out, using the cavity exactly like Renault must do but with a special tool with splines on the socket.
But no. In practice, you undo one side of the bumper frame, distort and bend the frame to heck and back, to get at the ‘E13’ (if it is indeed an E13, it fits a 13mm ordinary socket best, but badly, I know that much from today’s trials as I attempt this long-winded task). With corrosion, winding it all the way put is done by screwing this fine-threaded bolt using any means you have…I used pump pliers on the built-in washer on the head, one eighth of a turn at a time, for over an hour. It just wouldn;t budge any other way, maybe it’s threaded in to,the bush, I don’t know, the one on the frame I mean.
The lovely touch, is the half-height bolt head, on the lower ball joint - usually the key bit you are trying to replace. So my advice is to undo that first, and do all your hammering and shoving through of the pinch-bolt and ball joint, and then tackle the finishing-off of the two main bolts on the subframe. This is because, as you hammer out the corroded pinch-bolt that is a safety feature preventing the ball joint dropping out of the hub even if the nut comes off, any ‘give’ in that lower suspension arm, is your enemy. You need that arm, hard-mounted on that sub-frame with the two big bolts still largely in place, while you knock this pinch-bolt through. It’s much easier and less time-consuming this way. It’s also possibly handy, yo have the steering wheel turned slightly such that the rear end of the pinch-bolt, is easily visible/hammer-able…you will need a straight line of attack that’s not to close to the bodywork, you’ll be thumping with a sledgehammer and a 3/4” impact extension bar, if your pinch-bolt is corroded as well as mine was today. The impacts needed, were so violent, it knocked the ball bearing and spring out of the extension bar.
Autodoc’s guides are good, they keep us on-track, and I’ve got a Clio 2 to do, using their pdf on THAT car’s lower suspension arm. But corrosion, is what makes all the difference. Seaside life for a car, or salted roads, and it’s a different world, plus I end up cleaning and hosing down every plastic panel or steel frame that’s removed or revealed as the job progresses…I mean, are you really going to leave the mud and salt to slowly eat away the fasteners and bodywork?!
I’ve done a couple of control arms. This is way, the worst, by a mile. It’s as protectionist as Apple, if that puts it in perspective, in my view. I hope my tips from the last three days have added and embellished usefully the very good Autodoc video guide, with regards to real-world aspects of this convoluted job. Shame on Renault for this. We have two Renaults, and we won;t be buying a third. It’s not just these issues and design ethos/protectionism, not just refusing to put in the owner’s manual how much oil goes in the engine, not just ire at senseless multifarious fastener head choices that bamboozle and slow the task for the hapless owner.
It’s the panel not aligning from day one. It’s the slow coolant leak that’s IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose before 5 years have passed, because it’s so minuscule and so expensive to hand a ‘weird’ fault of ‘disappearing coolant’ to the Renault dealership. In the end, my absolute best garage owner and mechanic, had to pull out umpteen parts from the engine, and give me their best guess…there was really very little sign even with dye, where the leak was. It was a plastic/composite moulded and complex component, buried down the side of the tce90 engine, black plastic thing, not terribly big but with a few pipes and connections going to it - like a coolant ‘junction box’ of sorts, it seemed to me. This did fix it, almost completely, but I can tell there’s still a bit leaking, so this replacement part, is only mostly better, not 100% like a metal/alloy version would have been. It’s a VERY hot part of the engine bay, to scorch a composite component to death in, day in, and day out.
The only thing I could find was, this water leak was worst, when the weather changed…I’m trying to figure out if it warmed or cooled, and got worse, hard to recall now. Anyway, I think it was as it cooled, the issue became markedly worse. I seem to recall thinking, the plastic moulding must expand with the heat, and ‘fill the tiny gaps’ better, where it junctioned the alloy cylinder block. I also remember thinking, it was the opposite to a radiator slow leak - they get much worse in summer. Yes, and so what happened was, you;d be fine all,summer, then that first cool night in August/September, you;d lose a pint of coolant. That took a 5 year period to get to that stage - at first it was just a tiny amount, then a cupful, and so on, finally being intolerable, and possibly endangering the engine.
So this Clio, isn’t a patch on the mk2 for reliability, it’s been blighted by this issue which I only came to realise, well out of guarantee period. There are plenty of stories of Renault and Renault dealers turning their backs on what’s obviously a manufacturing defect, and the issue was initially so,slight and intermittent, I knew that game well - it’d be in and out of the dealer for two grand;s worth pf work before you know it. So I didn’t even tell my wife until it became probable she’d get stranded. It’s a great car in many ways, but the fuel economy is way below the expectations Renault set (45mpg absolute best ever we got, usually 35mpg to 40mpg, with clean air filters, hardly ever using AC, etc), which were some nonsense like 55mpg or something. Bunkum. Bunkum and a blight of coolant leak, from new I now realise.
Once you get this car fixed, it’s pretty sprightly and capable, but ours and many others had various blights on ownership…I haven’t even mentioned the non-working update of the infotainment, nor the 8-second constant repeating glitch on the bluetooth, like a 2010 ipad. Take care all.
Well, that looks simple enough. Why does the garage charge 550 euros for that?
"The triangle" .... smh