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Thank you, I couldn’t have done this without your help. Since the steering column was disconnected I have abs & service light on & OBD pics up left speed sensor & power steering codes won’t reset either? Any ideas?
If you're reusing the sway bar and just changing the bushings then be aware that you will need to cut away at the rubber, sand it off, and repaint as the bushings are rubber 'welded' to sway bar. I had to do this as I couldn't find a new replacement sway bar assembly
[EDIT: Just got to @8:21 and oh boy, the end result of all this, is not as I thought, fitting a €10 couple of bushing rubber mouldings…it’s the entire bar, because that’s just how this car rolls. I genuinely thought, you must be about to apply washing-up water and somehow work the mountings off, but no. Staggered.] Ok look, I am @6:13 and I did this job on a Clio mk2 some years ago. I am agape. You guys know what you are doing, but did Renault? If this is the only way to do this, dismantling engine mounts, plastic covers from way back along the body, and etc, I am a little shocked. The actual parts in question are about ten Euros per pair, maybe 20 if you get ripped-off. But this labour, surely is 150 to 350 Euros, depending on who you get to do it? I only just replaced a lower control arm and already am seemingly undoing that. That tiny little cross-beam, the little curly comma-shaped bracket, had been attacked by someone with an impact wrench sometime in the past, not me I didn’t have one, and was hanging by a piece of plastic. The little nut thing there are two of sort of riveted-on to permit screwing-in of the rearmost retaining bolts for the engine under-panel, one had decided to spin around instead of letting the 10mm bolt be unscrewed. So luckily, previously I had replaced that with a zip-tie, but now I did a ‘proper’ bodge/re-placement, and mounted a thick plastic bar above it, that stainless steel self-tappers with penny washers (also stainless steel) cut into. Thus, it works you just use a cross-head screwdriver for these two instead of a 10mm socket. Also, the 10mm bolts in general under there, just dissolve in our salted roads in the UK, so I replaced the remaining 3 with stainless steel 20mm long 10mm bolts with a washer-shape built in to the bolt head, specifically bought for this purpose. I can’t wait to get to the bit where the petrol tank needs removed…hah my idea of humour. This is such a complex effort for such a cheap part, maybe Renault should have carefully considered an innovation to avoid these wearing as badly as normal. We are talking two tiny rubber insulators, a few centimetres long, and possibly their mountings if badly corroded. To have to disturb a lot of steering parts, is to lead us towards another job, and another €150or so, alignment. I cannot fault the mk2 Clio. Maybe the sunroof, but all sunroofs have shrinking plastic surrounds that eventually leak…and the mk3 was so terribly similar, it shared a lot of good things. Now we have this thing. The mk4 we had a coolant leak from new, with some ugly complex plastic moulding that sits on the side of the engine and gets cooked, it always warps then leaks, and a body panel mismatch which I ignored, and stop-start which apparently I have to turn off every time (it’s a poor implementation, anyone slowing to almost a halt at lights, then having to suddenly re-engage just as they were about to halt, will have experienced the embarrassing ‘Learner-Driver-like’ pause as you try desperately to make the engine restart). In short, a load of b***ocks. These two flaws alone - the coolant leak and the engine stop-start implementation - would make me avoid a mk4 in future. They mar what could be a great car. This maintenance though, is very hard work for me in my sixties. And that translates, to expensive if we get someone else to do it for us. So this is a hard-work car to own, or an expensive one, you take your pick. I don’t want fried either way…oh hang on, I forgot the ‘infotainment’ screwup, which has non-working bluetooth in practice, and Renault agree it’s awful, by having multiple systems across different models in their range. Not impressed, anyway I carry on watching, gotta find out how that petrol tank comes out. Thanks for the ice-breaking work anyway, good vid of a bad job.
![โรงเรียนตอนตี 2 โคตรหลอน..!! [โรงเรียนไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2MAEMwqVYh8/mqdefault.jpg)
BUY THE AUTO PARTS you need for the operation : 👉 bit.ly/cheapAutoparts 👈
📱 DOWNLOAD THE APP : 🍎 bit.ly/MCD12AppStore, 🤖 : bit.ly/MCD12PlayStore 📱
⬇︎⬇︎ 🔥 🔧🔧🔧 🔥⬇︎⬇︎
Well, that looks way more complicated than it should be.
Holy crap. What have I just watched to replace two bushings. Wonder if similar on Grand Scenic 2012 Mk3. Really hoping not.....
A lot of front end suspension is shared across multiple platforms... My 2 cents: It's probably the same.
Thank you, I couldn’t have done this without your help. Since the steering column was disconnected I have abs & service light on & OBD pics up left speed sensor & power steering codes won’t reset either? Any ideas?
If you're reusing the sway bar and just changing the bushings then be aware that you will need to cut away at the rubber, sand it off, and repaint as the bushings are rubber 'welded' to sway bar. I had to do this as I couldn't find a new replacement sway bar assembly
hey, I have a huge request, I would like to ask what bushing you used to embed the old ones on the stabilizer? I can't find any that fit.
[EDIT: Just got to @8:21 and oh boy, the end result of all this, is not as I thought, fitting a €10 couple of bushing rubber mouldings…it’s the entire bar, because that’s just how this car rolls. I genuinely thought, you must be about to apply washing-up water and somehow work the mountings off, but no. Staggered.] Ok look, I am @6:13 and I did this job on a Clio mk2 some years ago. I am agape. You guys know what you are doing, but did Renault? If this is the only way to do this, dismantling engine mounts, plastic covers from way back along the body, and etc, I am a little shocked. The actual parts in question are about ten Euros per pair, maybe 20 if you get ripped-off. But this labour, surely is 150 to 350 Euros, depending on who you get to do it? I only just replaced a lower control arm and already am seemingly undoing that.
That tiny little cross-beam, the little curly comma-shaped bracket, had been attacked by someone with an impact wrench sometime in the past, not me I didn’t have one, and was hanging by a piece of plastic. The little nut thing there are two of sort of riveted-on to permit screwing-in of the rearmost retaining bolts for the engine under-panel, one had decided to spin around instead of letting the 10mm bolt be unscrewed. So luckily, previously I had replaced that with a zip-tie, but now I did a ‘proper’ bodge/re-placement, and mounted a thick plastic bar above it, that stainless steel self-tappers with penny washers (also stainless steel) cut into. Thus, it works you just use a cross-head screwdriver for these two instead of a 10mm socket.
Also, the 10mm bolts in general under there, just dissolve in our salted roads in the UK, so I replaced the remaining 3 with stainless steel 20mm long 10mm bolts with a washer-shape built in to the bolt head, specifically bought for this purpose.
I can’t wait to get to the bit where the petrol tank needs removed…hah my idea of humour. This is such a complex effort for such a cheap part, maybe Renault should have carefully considered an innovation to avoid these wearing as badly as normal. We are talking two tiny rubber insulators, a few centimetres long, and possibly their mountings if badly corroded. To have to disturb a lot of steering parts, is to lead us towards another job, and another €150or so, alignment. I cannot fault the mk2 Clio. Maybe the sunroof, but all sunroofs have shrinking plastic surrounds that eventually leak…and the mk3 was so terribly similar, it shared a lot of good things. Now we have this thing. The mk4 we had a coolant leak from new, with some ugly complex plastic moulding that sits on the side of the engine and gets cooked, it always warps then leaks, and a body panel mismatch which I ignored, and stop-start which apparently I have to turn off every time (it’s a poor implementation, anyone slowing to almost a halt at lights, then having to suddenly re-engage just as they were about to halt, will have experienced the embarrassing ‘Learner-Driver-like’ pause as you try desperately to make the engine restart).
In short, a load of b***ocks. These two flaws alone - the coolant leak and the engine stop-start implementation - would make me avoid a mk4 in future. They mar what could be a great car. This maintenance though, is very hard work for me in my sixties. And that translates, to expensive if we get someone else to do it for us. So this is a hard-work car to own, or an expensive one, you take your pick. I don’t want fried either way…oh hang on, I forgot the ‘infotainment’ screwup, which has non-working bluetooth in practice, and Renault agree it’s awful, by having multiple systems across different models in their range. Not impressed, anyway I carry on watching, gotta find out how that petrol tank comes out. Thanks for the ice-breaking work anyway, good vid of a bad job.
Please do it for Clio mk3, need to do it on my frenchy.
These centering pins should be going into small hole or big one?
M E R C I les gars.