Bro, I've to do this next week just waiting for the parts to arrive.. I've to do both of them, the bloody thoughts of it 🙈🙈🙈 Absolute Rotters... Thank's for this video ill be watching it closely as im doing da job.. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤠🤠🤠
Identical to a Megane Mk2. Nice to see Renault took the time to make it easier. Tell me the Temic modules die in the door and the windows go down instead of up etc.
NAPA, not a sponsor. I've just done the same job to me Zaffy b. It was all good til I snapped a lower wishbone arm bolt. Good job my bro has a salvage yard. Jace saved the day again, but don't tell him. 😁 Oh and by the way, good vid.
I could not watch this........even though it was a French car, it wasnt the Shitroen! So i closed my eyes for 18mins n 47seconds and just listened to the commentary........i want to register my protest. Thank you 😡
@12:01 get a 4ft or 1.5m long 2” x 2”piece of wood. go to the opposite side of the vehicle to where you are wanting the lower arm removed, and push the wood in between the engine and the front bumper frame that needs to be held down. Just lever it up so the bumper frame is forced down, using the sump pan as the pivot point/fulcrum. fit a brick or something under the far end of the wood as required, to get the frame dropped enough. But yes, this whole design is protectionism from Renault, like Apple sometimes does. The end of that long bolt into the lower arm is called ‘Torx plus’ or something - it’s a torx but inside out ie you need a socket that looks like a torx would go in it, to fit the splined bolt head. Ah yes, I’ve got it - they oughtta call it a ‘male torx’, because that would make sense. And the usual torx screws we are used to, are ‘female’. Anyway, Hard work. Presently done the main part of the job - now a torx plus 13 socket will arrive, and I can use it next time instead of ruining my 13mm socket and the head of the silly bolt. Now scratching my head, how do I get the front bumper frame to marry up to the subframe where the silly bolt head is? Can;t see what pulls it back into meeting the subframe…any answers on a postcard please or comment here reply! [EDIT: Oh! @16:20 you tighten the front bolt up and also the little torx strut fastener, and it ‘seems’ to mostly pull everything back into position. Seems absolutely ‘hanging’ but ok I will give that a try, not very ‘definite’ way of connecting the two parts, the bumper frame and the subframe.] watching this and other vids to see how to push the front bumper frame back into position fore-to-aft wise. Got it to the right height with a jack underneath (once you distort it, it seems to need forcing back to position). If the video reveals the answer, I’m sorted. Thanks and take care all.
At about 16:10 I try to explain. I just pushed it hard by hand so it was touching whilst tightening it up with the other hand. It’s pretty flexible so moves into place quite easily
There is a little pip that lines it up but they are technically two separate pieces with a little plastic bit between them to allow a bit of movement without rattling. They just but up against each other
I have a Megane Scenic II where the whole thing is almost identical underneath, including the wishbone being visually identical, and I have first tried replacing the ball joint itself, but the socket in the wishbone was so worn out (probably not the first time only the ball joint was replaced), that the new ball joint was just loose after being inserted (didn't even need a press to put it in). Ended up having to get a whole new wishbone anyway.
Have you left something loose? Ideally you should tighten any bushes that twist under load so they’re not being twisted when the car is at its normal ride height. I’ve explained that in other vids. In this case it’s a pain to do cos when it’s all back together you can’t get to the bolt so I used a cheat way of doing it. Left the outer ball joint disconnected and lifted the wishbone to about that level where it would be settled under load then tightened it up there.
Can anyone confirm the size of the e socket needed for the multi spline fastner on the arm front hinge please auto doc are saying E16 but the guy on the video says 13 I think thanks in advance
I had this problem whilst mine was under warranty. Took it to dealer several times, to be told they couldn’t find anything. I ended up doing the job myself!
Tried this on our lasses car, its a clio and the very front “plastic shit” won’t come off, it’s riveted on, can’t access the 18ml bolt to get that shitty support off, any ideas mate?
Oh what a state the subframe looks have new cars deliberately built in rot time bombs. I remember the days of the Mini sub frames. Still at least I'll know the car will crumple nicely in a head on smack. Might save me from be crumpled to. What is the age of it.
Replacing the wishbone in a megane ii/scenic ii soon and it's pretty much identical construction, the shapes and details are a bit different for various parts, but the procedure is identical, so so stupid. The wishbone itself, even though a different part number, is visually identical and I wouldn't be surprised if they were actually physically interchangeable.
You are absolutely right - sh*t Renault design. That stupid bracket under the radiator and the side arms making it difficult to get at the inverted Torx bolts. Count yourself lucky it wasn't a Mk2 Megan - they are even worse. You are supposed to jack up the wheel before finally torqueing up the suspension bolts - apparently they bushes can fail (even sooner) if you don't. Changing a suspension arm on most cars is a fairly simple job yet those idiots at Renault just don't learn. Why have it done in half an hour when you can p*ss about for two.
Yea you’re supposed to tighten the bush with weight on the suspension so the bush is neutral and not being twisted when it’s in the resting position. I mentioned this at about 13:30. I compensated by tightening the wishbone up in the resting position before putting the ball joint in
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I did see that bit and was a bit confused I get it now. I just measured the gap under the arch before I started the job - each to his own. Good point on getting the the Renault badge the right way up - you averted a catastrophe there.
Call me un cynique, but it’s almost as though these manufacturers deliberately make simple maintenance as difficult as possible to force mildly competent DIYers to give up and pay dealer rates for basic jobs.
Cars are more and more awkward/complicated to fix but nobody wants to pay mechanics properly compared to other trades... I can only imagine what it was like back in the 70’s. Cars looked so much easier, and more fun to work on back then.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes, dealers charging £150+ph give the £75ph independents a bad rep. Plus, with an independent, you know you’re not tied down to genuine parts which will ramp up the bill even further. My C1 has its MOT this week so I hope I’m not tempting fate by talking about this lol
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos My first two cars were Austin Metros with the ancient A Series engine. They were so easy to fix, and my dad served his mechanics apprenticeship at a Mini specialist in the 1960s so he could take it apart and put it back together in an afternoon with me watching on and fetching cuppas 😋 These days it takes that long to remove all the useless plastic covers before starting work lol
Only a few months older than my aygo.. mine looks like it came out of the showroom this looks like it's been parked next to the Titanic.... Why is it so rusty
Bro, I've to do this next week just waiting for the parts to arrive.. I've to do both of them, the bloody thoughts of it 🙈🙈🙈 Absolute Rotters... Thank's for this video ill be watching it closely as im doing da job.. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤠🤠🤠
@@Dholman75 haha they are a dumb design. Good look and hope the vid helps
@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thank's bro 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤠
Thanks mate. Easy, straight to the point. Cheers 🍻
Hope it helps
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Without a doubt!
very informative video, saved couple of money. came out pretty at the end. thx for the tips and tricks.
Sweet. Glad the vid helped!
Cracking video, am doing this tomorrow on my clio 3, all looks the same underneath and i expect as much chew....new sub
Thanks mate. Yea I think it’s pretty much the same job on a Clio 🤔
Identical to a Megane Mk2. Nice to see Renault took the time to make it easier. Tell me the Temic modules die in the door and the windows go down instead of up etc.
As we all know, Renault are renowned for making simple jobs easier 🙄
NAPA, not a sponsor. I've just done the same job to me Zaffy b. It was all good til I snapped a lower wishbone arm bolt. Good job my bro has a salvage yard. Jace saved the day again, but don't tell him. 😁 Oh and by the way, good vid.
I don’t think real sponsors would be interested in my channel 😂
And thanks mate.
I could not watch this........even though it was a French car, it wasnt the Shitroen! So i closed my eyes for 18mins n 47seconds and just listened to the commentary........i want to register my protest. Thank you 😡
Sorry brah, c1 will return next Saturday.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yesssssss you have just restored my faith in you Sir Tim 🤣
not worst than vauxhall or mini morris.
Thanks for that video. Can you tell please the OEM of this capshite wishbone?
Thanks mate. Don’t know about the oem sorry
Glad you noticed the renault badge was the wrong way up.
I did that once, it nearly shook the steering out of my hands on the road test.
@@John-tl1gn I’m glad I noticed that too. Could have caused an accident
@12:01 get a 4ft or 1.5m long 2” x 2”piece of wood. go to the opposite side of the vehicle to where you are wanting the lower arm removed, and push the wood in between the engine and the front bumper frame that needs to be held down. Just lever it up so the bumper frame is forced down, using the sump pan as the pivot point/fulcrum. fit a brick or something under the far end of the wood as required, to get the frame dropped enough. But yes, this whole design is protectionism from Renault, like Apple sometimes does. The end of that long bolt into the lower arm is called ‘Torx plus’ or something - it’s a torx but inside out ie you need a socket that looks like a torx would go in it, to fit the splined bolt head. Ah yes, I’ve got it - they oughtta call it a ‘male torx’, because that would make sense. And the usual torx screws we are used to, are ‘female’. Anyway, Hard work. Presently done the main part of the job - now a torx plus 13 socket will arrive, and I can use it next time instead of ruining my 13mm socket and the head of the silly bolt. Now scratching my head, how do I get the front bumper frame to marry up to the subframe where the silly bolt head is?
Can;t see what pulls it back into meeting the subframe…any answers on a postcard please or comment here reply! [EDIT: Oh! @16:20 you tighten the front bolt up and also the little torx strut fastener, and it ‘seems’ to mostly pull everything back into position. Seems absolutely ‘hanging’ but ok I will give that a try, not very ‘definite’ way of connecting the two parts, the bumper frame and the subframe.] watching this and other vids to see how to push the front bumper frame back into position fore-to-aft wise. Got it to the right height with a jack underneath (once you distort it, it seems to need forcing back to position). If the video reveals the answer, I’m sorted. Thanks and take care all.
At about 16:10 I try to explain. I just pushed it hard by hand so it was touching whilst tightening it up with the other hand. It’s pretty flexible so moves into place quite easily
There is a little pip that lines it up but they are technically two separate pieces with a little plastic bit between them to allow a bit of movement without rattling. They just but up against each other
Would you replace the wishbone if a arm ball joint is worn?
On most cars yea
I have a Megane Scenic II where the whole thing is almost identical underneath, including the wishbone being visually identical, and I have first tried replacing the ball joint itself, but the socket in the wishbone was so worn out (probably not the first time only the ball joint was replaced), that the new ball joint was just loose after being inserted (didn't even need a press to put it in). Ended up having to get a whole new wishbone anyway.
Hmm, at 3:36 you had the renault logo on the wheel upside down, but I guess you realised that when you test drove it after!
Maybe that was the problem all along? 🤔
Followed your guide but it’s now knocking bad. They say you should tighten the bolts and torque underload?
Have you left something loose? Ideally you should tighten any bushes that twist under load so they’re not being twisted when the car is at its normal ride height. I’ve explained that in other vids. In this case it’s a pain to do cos when it’s all back together you can’t get to the bolt so I used a cheat way of doing it. Left the outer ball joint disconnected and lifted the wishbone to about that level where it would be settled under load then tightened it up there.
What was the issue mate? Got the same problem
Can anyone confirm the size of the e socket needed for the multi spline fastner on the arm front hinge please auto doc are saying E16 but the guy on the video says 13 I think thanks in advance
E16 is correct I believe, I just used a 13mm hex on it as I cba going back to my toolbox and getting an E16. A decent 13mm hex works fine.
@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thanks pal for response and a great informative video
I had this problem whilst mine was under warranty. Took it to dealer several times, to be told they couldn’t find anything. I ended up doing the job myself!
What I don’t get is why doesn’t the bolt go the other way so can be removed without taking all the plastic shit off
My captur is in the garage today for the same job both bottom arms the mechanic rang to say it's not like normal wishbones now I know why ....
Yea they are a bit more time consuming cos of how the sun frame holds them
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos just got it back 3 hours labour
@@jimbojombo4464 doesn’t sound bad tbh.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I was happy with that.
Tried this on our lasses car, its a clio and the very front “plastic shit” won’t come off, it’s riveted on, can’t access the 18ml bolt to get that shitty support off, any ideas mate?
Which bit? Is it definitely riveted or is it push clips? Maybe they need drilling out and replacing
Definitely riveted mate, and that plastic section you have to hold back to get access to the bolt that holds the front end of that awful support.
@@callumwilson674 can you get at them to drill the shitters out?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos i might just cut an “access hole” in the plastic shitter to be fair mate.
managed to do the job, now got a horrific clunk whenever braking at low speed 😂
Oh what a state the subframe looks have new cars deliberately built in rot time bombs. I remember the days of the Mini sub frames. Still at least I'll know the car will crumple nicely in a head on smack. Might save me from be crumpled to. What is the age of it.
It’s a 2014 I think 🤔. Yep, new cars seems to be rotting away before ones from 20 years ago
Replacing the wishbone in a megane ii/scenic ii soon and it's pretty much identical construction, the shapes and details are a bit different for various parts, but the procedure is identical, so so stupid. The wishbone itself, even though a different part number, is visually identical and I wouldn't be surprised if they were actually physically interchangeable.
They’re a stupid design 🙄
You are absolutely right - sh*t Renault design. That stupid bracket under the radiator and the side arms making it difficult to get at the inverted Torx bolts.
Count yourself lucky it wasn't a Mk2 Megan - they are even worse.
You are supposed to jack up the wheel before finally torqueing up the suspension bolts - apparently they bushes can fail (even sooner) if you don't.
Changing a suspension arm on most cars is a fairly simple job yet those idiots at Renault just don't learn. Why have it done in half an hour when you can p*ss about for two.
Yea you’re supposed to tighten the bush with weight on the suspension so the bush is neutral and not being twisted when it’s in the resting position. I mentioned this at about 13:30. I compensated by tightening the wishbone up in the resting position before putting the ball joint in
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I did see that bit and was a bit confused I get it now. I just measured the gap under the arch before I started the job - each to his own.
Good point on getting the the Renault badge the right way up - you averted a catastrophe there.
@@we-are-electric1445 I once out my wheel back on my Peugeot with the badge upside down,.. it resulted in the car going upside down.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Put it down to experience 😁
Call me un cynique, but it’s almost as though these manufacturers deliberately make simple maintenance as difficult as possible to force mildly competent DIYers to give up and pay dealer rates for basic jobs.
Cars are more and more awkward/complicated to fix but nobody wants to pay mechanics properly compared to other trades... I can only imagine what it was like back in the 70’s. Cars looked so much easier, and more fun to work on back then.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes, dealers charging £150+ph give the £75ph independents a bad rep.
Plus, with an independent, you know you’re not tied down to genuine parts which will ramp up the bill even further.
My C1 has its MOT this week so I hope I’m not tempting fate by talking about this lol
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos My first two cars were Austin Metros with the ancient A Series engine. They were so easy to fix, and my dad served his mechanics apprenticeship at a Mini specialist in the 1960s so he could take it apart and put it back together in an afternoon with me watching on and fetching cuppas 😋 These days it takes that long to remove all the useless plastic covers before starting work lol
@@infidelcastro5129 exactly. I remember when I was a kid and Metros were everywhere. Now I can’t remember the last time I saw one driving tbh
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I saw one a few weeks ago - and it was that awful shitty brown colour too!
Only a few months older than my aygo.. mine looks like it came out of the showroom this looks like it's been parked next to the Titanic.... Why is it so rusty
It’s just the front split subframe that’s rusty mainly. I think it’s made out of an old Austin Allegro 🤷♀️
depends where the car lives, how many miles and where it drives to, renault also use old baked bean tins, you of had spaghetti,
Just do the ball joint
@@danimccarron8413not sure if they can be removed separately, but the arms are cheap enough
@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yeah can change the jus a bit easier sometimes press them out
Yeah just press them out
Having to do this on my clio now. Agree worst design I have seen in a while.
Really dumb design, typical French shit.
Thanks for the video, was dreading doing it but needs must.
Just as shit as when it rolled out of the factory....many a true word said in jest !