For track or street? I use ECS Tuning rotors and EBS yellowstuff pads for track. I use front stock rotors and pads for street. Not sure about other street rotors and pads.
@@stevenstrackdays2687mainly street but who knows maybe one day take it to the track. But even so, I tend to drive a bit aggressive on the street.. ECS tuning has front & rear brake pad kit for $ 210 and f/r rotors for $1038. The dealer quoted me a price of $2138. I assume that includes labor.
@@minaguirguis8897 The MSRP price of a stock rotor is $160, but dealer charged me $265.2。The MSRP of stock pads is $229.23, but dealer charged me $239.63. Labor was $310 only front brakes. All pre tax.
If you are using the pressure bleeding method do you also need to open/close the bleeder screw on the caliper with a second person pressing and letting off the brake pedal?
Thanks for this great video! Approximately how much new fluid would you end up adding in total to do a complete flush? I've got my first ever track day coming up in a couple of months, so I'll be upgrading my brake fluid (higher boiling point Motul RBF 600 or 660) soon, along with new pads, rotors, and ss brake lines. I'm assuming it'll be a little over 1L in my case, since I want to ensure that all of the old fluid is replaced. I've got a 2010 4.2L 6MT Audi S5 btw
Probably the same but I am not sure. I only purchased/downloaded A4 and A5 repair manuals. Here's how to find repair manuals: th-cam.com/video/qfENXu-KuZ4/w-d-xo.html
I don't find low viscosity requirements in repair manual. I don't think that the OEM brake fluid is low viscosity fluid parts.audiusa.com/p/75828152/B0007501LDSP.html I think LV is worth considering in cold weather, but not for track purpose. "For track use, a heavier high performance brake fluid such as Ate Typ 200 or Motul RBF600 or RBF660 is recommended because of their higher boiling point and because the thicker fluid will thin out at track temps."
if you use the pressure bleeder to replace pressing the brake pedal do you need the pressure bleeder to be filling with new brake fluid as you are bleeding out the old?
No you don't need to fill it with new fluid. But eventually you want to keep the final fluid level high (close to max level but leave room for new brake pads). So, why not fill with new fluid earlier.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 im wondering if you don't fill it while pressurizing it and you bleed at the calipers and then fill later that you risk trapping air in the lines needing to bleed a lot more until you get no bubbles?
That's true, but as long as you don't push the level below the min, no need to worry about air. Both the max and the min levels are marked on the reservoir. Please monitor the level.
hello, this is great info, but i am wondering have you ever heard or expierenced hearing a squeaky brake pedal after doing a brake flush? I have a 2020 S4 and after getting a fluid flush, my brake pedal squeaks - usually when releasing the pedal.
Right, it's not there. I found the info in a file called "D4B805C61D2-Maintenance.pdf". I believe I downloaded it from the "maintenance" category in Erwin.
you start bleeding from right rear passenger brake and move on to left rear and than front passenger and last driver side … brake bleeding should start from furthest away from the brake reservoir tank
For the bleeding screw? I don't think so. The fluid will stop bleeding even when the screw is not super tightened. The manual does mention a torque value but I never followed it.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 Do I need apply some anti seize grease on the bleeder screws? and what is the maximum allowed pressure to pump with the bleeder pump? 9 PSI?
@@MKasap-te8vm The repair manual does mention the grease so I don't think so. I don't see the max limit. But the manual said "An initial pressure of 2 bar (29 psi) is required to bleed the ABS Hydraulic Unit." So at least 29 psi.
Thank you. Looks like the components are identical to my 2018 SQ5. This will really help, it’s the only TH-cam video for this class of Audi.
Your videos are outstanding!
Thank you for all the effort put into these videos. They are extremely helpful, especially with the limited B9 videos out on youtube currently.
My pleasure
Hi, did you decide what you are going to get for the brake pads and rotors? My audi now needs brake service. Thanks
For track or street? I use ECS Tuning rotors and EBS yellowstuff pads for track. I use front stock rotors and pads for street. Not sure about other street rotors and pads.
@@stevenstrackdays2687mainly street but who knows maybe one day take it to the track. But even so, I tend to drive a bit aggressive on the street.. ECS tuning has front & rear brake pad kit for $ 210 and f/r rotors for $1038. The dealer quoted me a price of $2138. I assume that includes labor.
@@minaguirguis8897 The MSRP price of a stock rotor is $160, but dealer charged me $265.2。The MSRP of stock pads is $229.23, but dealer charged me $239.63. Labor was $310 only front brakes. All pre tax.
Appreciate this post. Ill save myself 180 bucks :)
Could anyone please tell me what sort of computer I need to bleed the brakes on my b8 a4? Cheers
If you are using the pressure bleeding method do you also need to open/close the bleeder screw on the caliper with a second person pressing and letting off the brake pedal?
No need for the second person pressing the brake pedal if you use the pressure bleeding method.
Thanks for this great video! Approximately how much new fluid would you end up adding in total to do a complete flush? I've got my first ever track day coming up in a couple of months, so I'll be upgrading my brake fluid (higher boiling point Motul RBF 600 or 660) soon, along with new pads, rotors, and ss brake lines. I'm assuming it'll be a little over 1L in my case, since I want to ensure that all of the old fluid is replaced. I've got a 2010 4.2L 6MT Audi S5 btw
For B9 models (year 2018+), it is 1L auto and 1.15L manual as I mentioned in the beginning of the video. For your model, unfortunately I'm not sure.
Fair enough @@stevenstrackdays2687 - thank you for the feedback anyway
What would the sequence be for my 2014 rs7?
Probably the same but I am not sure. I only purchased/downloaded A4 and A5 repair manuals. Here's how to find repair manuals: th-cam.com/video/qfENXu-KuZ4/w-d-xo.html
I thought the b9 s4 requires low viscosity brake fluid. Does that not matter?
I don't find low viscosity requirements in repair manual. I don't think that the OEM brake fluid is low viscosity fluid parts.audiusa.com/p/75828152/B0007501LDSP.html
I think LV is worth considering in cold weather, but not for track purpose.
"For track use, a heavier high performance brake fluid such as Ate Typ 200 or Motul RBF600 or RBF660 is recommended because of their higher boiling point and because the thicker fluid will thin out at track temps."
Where do you download these repair manuals? Do they have other systems like suspension, transmission or diffs?
Yes. See th-cam.com/video/qfENXu-KuZ4/w-d-xo.html
if you use the pressure bleeder to replace pressing the brake pedal do you need the pressure bleeder to be filling with new brake fluid as you are bleeding out the old?
No you don't need to fill it with new fluid. But eventually you want to keep the final fluid level high (close to max level but leave room for new brake pads). So, why not fill with new fluid earlier.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 im wondering if you don't fill it while pressurizing it and you bleed at the calipers and then fill later that you risk trapping air in the lines needing to bleed a lot more until you get no bubbles?
That's true, but as long as you don't push the level below the min, no need to worry about air. Both the max and the min levels are marked on the reservoir. Please monitor the level.
hello, this is great info, but i am wondering have you ever heard or expierenced hearing a squeaky brake pedal after doing a brake flush? I have a 2020 S4 and after getting a fluid flush, my brake pedal squeaks - usually when releasing the pedal.
Sorry I didn't experience it. Do you have repair manuals? Maybe it's mentioned there.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 i do not, i will check for manuals. thank you!
What service manual did you use to get the bleed amounts? I have the brake system manual through erwin and don’t see that anywhere
Right, it's not there. I found the info in a file called "D4B805C61D2-Maintenance.pdf". I believe I downloaded it from the "maintenance" category in Erwin.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 thanks for the response!
Where did you get this maintenance guide?
th-cam.com/video/qfENXu-KuZ4/w-d-xo.html
you start bleeding from right rear passenger brake and move on to left rear and than front passenger and last driver side … brake bleeding should start from furthest away from the brake reservoir tank
Do I need Worque Trench？
For the bleeding screw? I don't think so. The fluid will stop bleeding even when the screw is not super tightened. The manual does mention a torque value but I never followed it.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 Do I need apply some anti seize grease on the bleeder screws? and what is the maximum allowed pressure to pump with the bleeder pump? 9 PSI?
@@MKasap-te8vm The repair manual does mention the grease so I don't think so.
I don't see the max limit. But the manual said "An initial pressure of 2 bar (29 psi) is required to bleed the ABS Hydraulic Unit." So at least 29 psi.
Nice video but your voice over skills need work, you remind me of the automated tik tok text to voice guy. Lmao.
Sorry about that. I'm not a native speaker and definitely need more practice.
@@stevenstrackdays2687it’s okay man. He just doesn’t understand that English clearly isn’t your first language. Keep doing what your doing.
@@stevenstrackdays2687Don’t listen to this idiot. You speak good English and we are grateful for your tutorials and help