Brake Fluid Flush DIY (Service) for VW and Audi
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2017
- We show you how to perform a brake fluid flush using RBF600 brake fluid on a VW with The Humble Mechanic. This video can be useful if you need to perform a brake fluid flush or want to swap to high-performance brake fluid for track days.
Motul RBF 600 Fluid
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Brake Fluid Flush/Bleeder Tool
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Motul RBF 600 Fluid
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Genuine VW/Audi Brake Fluid
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Brake Fluid Flush/Bleeder Tool
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Video Dream Team - these are two of my favourites. Obviously knowledgeable, but unpretentious and I like the way that they tend to throw in the odd offhand comment borne through experience, which can make a job so much easier.
Liked the time lapse which helped show color difference right away.
I've always used a new turkey baster to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and then fill it with new fluid and then start the bleeding process. That gets fresh fluid into the system quicker than having to push out the old fluid through the calipers. Peace
isn’t that exactly what they did?
I think that they skipped this step
You can not remove the strainer from the reservoir so you are unable to insert a baster or syphon to do this step.
Very helpful advices, tips and tricks for Audi and VW owners! 👍🏼
A lot simpler than I expected. Of course having the rights tools always helps :)
One tip, if you have a manual you might as well go and bleed the clutch too. In most VW’s the clutch uses the same fluid as the brakes.
A splendid job, fellas! 🔧 👌🏻
Charles is THE BEST!!!
Thanks for another great vid, will try this soon with a friend of mine who's got the bleeding equipment. One question: How can you be completely sure you're done with each caliper and can move to the next? You say "when the fluid starts running clean" but in the vid I can barely see a lighter yellow fluid coming out at that point, is that all? And is that the point at which the fresh fluid poured in at the beginning has reached said caliper? For example if I used an ATE fluid (blue colour) would it be the point at which blue fluid instead of yellow would be coming out? Just want to make sure I remove all of the old fluid, thanks!
Could you please put a link to the equipment you have used for bleeding. Is the pump by Vortexx? I am also interested in the bottle that catches fluid. Who makes it and where can you buy one. Thanks in advance. Loved your video.
Was really hoping you'd show the old vs. new fluid comparison, you mentioned you would at the beginning of the video
Same. The old fluid coming out looked fine.
Thanks for sharing this video. Are there any differences between models (say, a Tiguan vs a Jetta) when doing the maintenance flush of the brake fluid?
I always vacuum out the old brake fluid and then fill with new before bleeding. Can you force the ABS Unit to operate and flush it too? What size wrench to loosen the bleeders on a 2014 EOS? GREAT VIDEO! THANKS
Did you have any problem during or after the brake service? Great vídeo greetings from México👍
You missed out the messy bit of getting your Reservoir level down to maximum and the wipe up 😂
Do I close the EBC or open the EBC to bleed the system?
Given the cost of the fluid wouldn't it have been better to have removed some excess fluid from the reservoir first rather than mixing old and new fluid prior to removal of old fluid from all the lines. Also I noticed that advice about which cylinder to relieve first was not followed. I'm mystified by both those omissions. They are important matters to cover for those who are coming here for what is usually top advice.
Not to mention abs, and clutch. both of which being the only reason I watched this entire video.
if u do that u can create air inside and that is not good but it is possible but it will require more work to get out of air.
I always thought removing the excess old fluids from the reservoir first is just to speed up the bleeding process… you either remove some from the top first or bleed it out from the wheels… or am I missing something?
You can not remove the strainer from the reservoir so you are unable to insert a baster or syphon to do this step.
@@robertburke4263the strainer pulls right out with a pair of needle nose pliers
Hey @deutscheautoparts, what's the correct bleeding/flush oder? I noticed you did it the "traditional way" starting at rear passenger side, while the "official" service manual supposedly requires to start at the front driver wheel. Can you put an end to this discussion?
I can use this method on most cars right?
Do VWs have a brake fluid service interval setting that need to be reset afterwards on the onboard computer?
thank you
The break fluid looks clean to me did you change it before before the video just to demonstrate the video
Is there a clutch bleed screw on the Mk6 Jetta ea888 1.8 TSI?
I do this and use the same tool. now the brake pedal feel spongy. I dont ute so high presure that you do. ute Ate sl6 dot 4
Golf mk7 2014
Do you need to bleed your clutch master too ?
What the sequence to bleed mk6 glof
Thanks, guys. I love your tutorials. for this one... a step-by-step process, without missing any step, would have been appreciated. What did you put in the pressure pump and how much? So it could have been more detailed, especially if you are like me, hate making mistakes and messing up such an important process. Thanks
Hi, does 2014 Audi Q5 TFSI require ABS auto bleed during the brake fluid flush? Thanks.
Hi friends, do i have to bleed olso the clutch circuit,i have a a4 b8.5 allroad and tomorrow i have to change the brake fluid. Thanks. Cheers
Can you reverse bleed a 2013 Tiguan?
electrical contact cleaner and a bristle brush for getting rid of spilled fluid
anyone know if you need the scanner tool to reset something?
I did this procedure, it seemed to work but when I turn car on the pedal goes soft again. Is there something I missed or is it the brake master cylinder then?
does brake pedal need to be presed to botom position during whole procedure or ?
Im asking, as i think i have some air in cylinder, when im presing brake, on begining top point of presing i can feel a bit like when abs activates and then it catches preasure and works, had realy love level of fluid in reservoir and could happen it puled some from reservoir in to system...
Hi, thanks for the great video. Can the 3L Brake Power Bleeder Kit be used on other cars/trucks? Where can you get appropriate adapters?
amazon
I have a 2019 VW T-CROSS and has only 4000 km. Recently VW changed the brake fluid (time interval change) but after the service the cluth pedal is different. The clutch felt like a new car now it is more week like a used car around 40.000 km not a 4000 km one…. What happened? Can i use obdeleven to diagnose or bleed something? I am very dissapointed of VW service. Not to mention the quality - my car camed with missing screws and many more problems. Please reaspond 🙏 thank you! Great job with your videos.
How about activating the ABS pump?
As far as I can see always keep that tube above the bleeding nip. If not air is gonna go straight up into the system.
Trying to search for the right brake fluid and I feel like I keep getting 2 separate answers. I have a 2014 Jetta TDi sedan. Is it dot 4 or is it dot 4 lv?
How often did you have pump up pressure in that container with the new brake fluid during the entire process? That’s not in the video.
Do you need to purge the air out of the hose from the bleeder pump tool to the master cylinder before starting the flush or bleeding procedure?
I don't think so. The small amount of air in the pump line would just "float" at the top of the reservoir. Just eyeball the reservoir and make certain the level stays up close to the top (certainly above the low line).
Hi!! Can I use this technic on a VW Golf MK4 made in 1999?
Is this bleeder tool only for Audi and volkswagens? the website shows only list of Audis and Volkswagens. let me know please asap.
What pressure do you recommend for brake line replacement of an mk6?
I believe the VW manual suggests bleeding the front driver caliper first, rather than the rear passenger. Does it matter?
note, the remaining fluid in the supply container will either have to be used in a day or two, or disposed of. likewise, once a bottle of brake fluid is opened, it has a short shelf life.
Good tip, thanks!
I would think a lot more than a few days if you seal the container tightly. Because the brake fluid in the car has MORE places where moisture can slowly get in - the filler cap, and all four brake pistons. So if your statement were true, you would need to replace you brake fluid every week, or every month. You can exclude moisture further by placing into another sealed plastic bag. The fluid itself does not change or degrade chemically, being resistant to temperatures well above 100 C.
Didn't Charles check his mic before starting! lol.
I would love for you to go a step further and include flushing/bleeding the slave cylinder on a manual transmission car.
same thing should apply, just connect the catch bottle to the bleeder block
Ooo0o
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Do golf mk6 bleed front to back instead of back axel to front ?
hey guys, thank you! could you please help me? i have vw cc, manual 6spd. i down shift a lot and rarely use brakes. my abs fuse got blown recently while hard braking in the rain. i replaced it and and all was good. I've ested it, abs worked fine. until today, while i was hard breaking again, same thing, blown fuse. My theory is abs module gets stuck(?) somehow due to rare use. Anyway, what would be the best way to try to fix it? Maybe take off abs module and clean it somehow? Please help.
Hmm does not specify if the Geniune brake fluid is good for the S4 though it does say it's fine for the B8. Nothing a good bit of research can debunk.
Just some info I've found out because this method is not working for me. I downloaded the official VW repair manual for a 2010 CC sport.
1. Manual says 2 bars of pressure and specifically mentions this to clear out the ABS module. (I've yet to try it)
2. Bleed order is odd. It is BOTH, FRONT, left and right calipers, at the SAME time. Then it is back calipers at the same time.
3. Other people have bought a scan tool to specifically access the abs module to open and close the port.
If you do not get air out of the ABS module then it will never work.
would a 2017 golf R use the same amount of brake fluid as the car in the video? i would be replacing the brake lines with steel breaded lines front and back with new pads
Hi thank you so much for this incredibly helpful video. 2 Quick questions:
1) what Barr/PSI pressure for bleeding is needed when brake lines are being repaired (for a 2010-B8 Audi A4)?
2) which wheel it’s recommended to start bleeding or flushing, closer (front driver) or further away (rear passenger) from master cylinder?
10-15 psi is safe. I wouldn't go higher but you can if you wanna go faster and risk it.
The correct way they say it to start at the master cylinder (front left, driver) and get all the gunk out right away but if you're going to bleed all four it's not going to make a difference.
When you say running clean, do you mean no bubbles? Or dirt/darker coloration in the fluid?
color changes to a more clear yellow as opposed to mtn dew
You mentioned you need to operate at higher pressure if you’re replacing the lines. What pressure should I use? 2 BAR?
I would not use more than 1.5bar.
I did that and nothing happen, changed the rotors and calipers and can't get the fluid back to the brakes.
What about ABS. Does that still have the old fluid in it?
@@hankedwin2780 "I dont know if anyone cares at all"
They don't.
@@thiagorayden4464 Yeah, sure it did, you spammer.
Can I use any quality dot 4 brake fluid or must I only use Volkswagen brake fluid?
Any Quality Dot4 should work
How much fluid should I order to perform this service ?
audi a6 C6 owner here. How long should I wait with the brake nipple open? the old and the new brake fluid have the same color
200ml per corner and 100ml for clutch on manual transmission
Do you need to keep the pedal brake pressed while is doing this procedure and then depressed it at the end of the flush?
nope
How necessary is it to do I need to do all 4 calipers? I've typically gone to the right rear caliper (since it's the farthest from the reservoir) and by the time the old fluid is out / new fluid in, it's pretty much gone through the system. Yes there will be a small amount of old fluid in the other calipers but if I'm changing the fluid regularly I don't think that matters much, or does it?
Erwin manual says pressure must be 2 bar (29 psi) to bleed past the hydraulic unit?
For what models?
I also feel fancy when I use “bar” instead of “PSI” 🧐
I have a spungy brake pedal that I can not seem to alleviate. I even went as far as changing the master brake cylinder with a new one in my 2017 A6 with only 54000 miles. I used an OBDELEVEN it activate the abs pump and I also have a pressure bleeder. It feels fine for like a day or two then goes back to a spungy pedal, over the months I must have ran 2 gallons of brake fluid. Cant seem to get the air out. What is the correct order to bleed?
You might possibly have small tears in the caliper piston boots leaking out fluid and maybe allowing air in. Sounds like there’s a leak somewhere in the system, idk if you have the same car still.
I notice that you did not use a scan tool to open the valves in the ABS module, surely you need to do this to flush the fluid through the ABS module properly?
So no need to cycle the ABS pump via vcds?
Was wondering the same.
Where can I purchase the bottle with the adapter that slips over the bleeder screw? I have the Motive kit but the 8" clear hose they provide doesn't stay on the bleeder screw. It slips off.
....a year later...anyone know?
@@Tony.Tony.Tony. Here's a link to a universal kit: www.toolsource.com/bleeders-c-1321_79_81/universal-brake-bleed-adapters-p-143977.html or you can buy the Schwaben bottle: www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/brake-bleeder-catch-bottle/007481sch01a/
I have the motive bleeder also and think I’m going to go buy some clear tubing at hardware store. Good to know that little piece in the package slips off. I’m just going to get clear tubing and drill hole in top of cap on 2liter and a air vent hole. Push clear tubing to the very bottom of 2liter and add some brake fluid to prevent any air going back in.
How do I search though your TOOLS section on your web site?
We have a tool section listed in each individual model.
Hi, i was wondering why mix the new fluid and the old in the car reservoir? And how can you tell when the old is out and new is coming in? Are they that different in colour? Thnx
Radu Florian dark yellow is old fluid, very light yellow is new fluid 👍
Do you need the pressure tank or can this be done the old fashion way
You can have a helper pump the pedal. The tank just makes it easier to do by yourself.
I need answer please. I can just bleed out the fluid without putting pressure inside the Reservoir right? Like how Chrisfix did. Can I just press on the brake pedal to give pressure and pump out the fluid?
the two fronts gravity bleed pretty well, the rears take forever. best to get a helper and let them pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder.
@@axa.axa. Yeah, I also have found with my B5 Passat that the rears are very slow. I didn't want to increase the pressure so much and risk cracking the plastic reservoir, so I just do it the old fashioned way, with my wife pumping the pedal.
Could you use a gravity bleed if you don't have that equipment. Suck out master, fill with new, crack one at a time and just let it gravity out?
Charles L No. There is way too much line and the surface tension of the fluid would mean a HUGE amount of time waiting for it to come out. Plus, brake fluid is hydrophilic and all that time exposed to atmosphere may allow it to absorb humidity. Brake fluid plus water is no bueno.
Charles L Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you shouldn't need the pressurized bleeder thingy on the reservoir. Just the traditional pump-pump-hold-open-close and repeat with the occasional reservoir fill, and a person in the car that doesn't mind getting yelled at.
Luke Edward you can do it like that, but it will require a lot more work.
Yaay do haldex!!
madott would also like DeutscheParts and HumbleMechanic doing a Tiguan Haldex filter and fluid maintanance video.
My 2013 Audi Q7 has two bleeder nipples (one on each side of the caliper). Do I bleed one or both?
Both
Thanks!
Doesnt Volksvagen use a non-standard FL, FR, RL, RR sequence?
Agreed...not sure if all VW's are like this but the service manuals for my MK4 R32 and my wife's 2019 MQB Tiguan are in "reverse" order from the typical.
What's the torque value for the bleeder screw?
There isn't one really, just be sensible and snug it up and don't over-tighten it.
I always use the universal German VW spec "Gudntite"
nice to do your own work where you can but here in the UK it only costs around £35 to get the job done by a garage with the correct equipment and fluids instead of struggling to jack up each wheel taking off tyres all the while risking danger and/or making a bad job of it.
So in that case with my meter showing 3% water content after 4/5 years since the last change I will skip these procedures to get the job done by a mechanic doing the same thing day in day out
Jacking up a wheel isn't difficult to do at all, in fact, it's one of the easiest things you do on a car. You don't need a lot of equipment to change your own brake fluid really, and it shouldn't take up a massive amount of time either. If you are the type of person who struggles to even jack up a wheel, perhaps you shouldn't be doing ANY work on your car at all?
@@johnrichardson544 All true, but if I could get a brake fluid job for £35 ($48) like Martin said, I would let the shop do it. Here, it will be at least $100 for a shop to do it, and I can do it in less time than taking it to a shop and waiting.
question: I have a GLI 09 and vcds has an option to bleed the bakes, what is it for?
Erick Bren Amigo, the vcds option is more for a break system repair than maintenance. A repair will need the system to be bleed instead of flushed. A service maintenance requires a flush. Almost at the end of the video they mention the difference. For a bleed you must use the ABS module (vcds/VAGCOM) to eliminate air bubbles. Hope this helps.
@@RichipaIdi So I don’t have to do anything with my 2011 Volkswagen Jetta tdi abs if I just want to flush out old fluid with new fluid?
@@hardcore4476 Keep the reservoir always full so you don’t get bubbles in the system.
@@RichipaIdi I know that. Just saying I just bleed each wheel on a automatic and I’m done? Don’t have to use vcds for anything?
@@hardcore4476 no
Is green brake fluid considered old brake fluid i have never seen green brake fluid before in my car i have seen black or brown but not green. Thanks
coming on askdap episode 104
Umm what about the ABS pump still have dirty fluid in it too?
They didnt activate the ABS test function with a VCDS, to open every valves, and let all the old fluid com out.
I think it's much easier done via vcds too
I thought vw is suppose to have sequence driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger rear.
However “trained” professions all say furthest from the master cylinder first.
That's exactly what they did
I was just reading the VW workshop manual for my VW Arteon, and yes it says to start from the front and go to the back, not sure why but will follow these instructions from the factory
@@shishuali4821 I remember the Bentley for my 2003 vr6 said closest to furthest. Every other mk4 said furthest to closest.
@@shishuali4821 That is pre-bleeding in case the master cylinder runs empty for a leak or something like that. If you don't have a leak then do what they did!
Can I use this same sequence for a passat cc? Rear passenger,driver passenger,front passenger and driver front? Tia
Carlos Solares yes.
1L is recommended for a flush and this looks like more than 1L. I see that you filled the reservoir...so did you put the left over into the bleeder? I have an MK7 R if that makes a difference
You can suck the left over out or push it through. Either way you shouldn't keep opened brake fluid for future use as it will absorb moisture.
Video muted right at the spill. Let me guess. Someone said "shit!"? :D
Yeah, both times :)
How bottles / liters of fluid do I need for my Audi A5 8T (b8) for changing the all dot4 fluid?
Yes. I'd like to know as well.
Camm GTR yes
@@cammgt3rs370 1 lt was just enough. I bought Castrol DOT4 Response, and had no suspect of the genuinity. Price was good too. Performance is excellent.
If only was that easy to crack open bleeder screw on older cars
use some penetrating oil first but yeah it can be tough
If possible can you do a rearview camera install? I have a 2015 S that didn't come with one so I'm looking to install an OEM one.
Thanks
I sometimes use a deep well socket wrench to crack them open, then switch to open end to do the actual bleeding. Essential to not use an open end to try to crack open the screw, because you will round off the flats of the screw.
@@ptreth - yes... Rust-Belt cars need extra caution to avoid twisting off or rounding out the bleeder valves...
1. first thing is to suck up the "Old" fluid from the reservoir. this saves you pumping Old fluid through whole car down to first bleed point.
2. use the hex side of the spanner. simply mechanics.
3. hit the spanner insted of pressing it with raising force at the start. experience hint.
4. tc.5:33 air bubbles. let me beleive it is a bleeding screw bubbble;)
5. Some use the vaccum bleeder and this results in to things. you use always the fluid from the bottle which is recommended then you are out of overfilled BF reservoir at the end.
Regards. M.
#2 if he hadn't placed the hex side correctly and needed to lift/adjust to further turn the screw, that would be more difficult to work with since he had the collection hose blocking the wrench. Using the open end, he can slide on as needed to continue turning the screw. However, if you have a ratcheting hex side, then no brainer!
why not use those special-cut-six-to-work-with-bleeders ? goo.gl/images/ctcqdh
The reservoir has a built in filter which does not remove easily without damaging it. Furthermore, you will never be able to "suck out" all the old fluid. The reservoir has baffles inside which make it impossible to remove all the old fluid. The pressure bleeding tool will push out all the old fluid in a matter of seconds. Just crack the line closest to the master cylinder (usually the driver side front wheel) and you will quickly purge all the old fluid out of the reservoir.
Agreed, get as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir before you start flushing the system. Otherwise you’re pushing a lot more contaminated fluid through the sensitive abs system. A hand vacuum pump or even a turkey baster works just fine.
Also, you want your tubing to be higher than the the bleeder as it first comes out. Air bubbles gravitate to the highest point in your line, yes the fluid will also push it out eventually but, you want to give any potential bubbles, a path with little resistance.
As for what tool to use , an open end wrench runs the high likelihood of rounding the bleeder hex. Always use a box end or flare nut wrench.
Why be such a douche about it?
No flare nut wrench? I gringe watching you using a regular wrench.
luis amoa non rustbelt area. We are spoiled 😆
Does the Brake Bleeder Set work on the 2016 Golf R?
yes it would
Can you use this to bleed your clutch as well?
Jamie Parent I was wondering about this myself.
Hello DAP, I just have one quick question here its about my 2017 mk7 gti infotainment system, so it happens two, three times a week, the centre screen won't turn on as I turn on the ignition. Every time I have to switch the car on and off to bring the screen back to life. Can't use the radio, nav, and the backing camera when this happens. Took it to the dealer and they did an radio software updates and it was good for a week then the problem occurred again. Is it because the whole centre screen unit is bad? Plz give me some ideas if you know what's happening here.
Thanks, I'll just get a Toyota!
Because those don't require brake fluid changes 🤔
@@BS-ge4ne yep. At least not every 2 years
@@BS-ge4ne flushing a toyota is easy. This video is not actually correct according the repair manual. If you get air stuck in your ABS module you will never get the system bled correctly. You will never have that issue with a toyota.
Devils advocate only here. Clutch (then again, do you even have them in the US!) after? Then which caliper order (does Haynes say nearest first; where many always say furthest first!?)? Why did you not suck out most of the moisture contaminated reservoir fluid first (turkey baster / cheap syringe) as this will contain most of the water content? as brake fluid does not circulate)? Correct on being careful about blowing master cylinder seals (not so much the actual reservoir?) via pressure bleeding, which is why vacuum bleeding can be safer... and better? But getting everything past and out of the master / ABS & ESP block is important, if not fundamental (you sort of covered that ref 'repair' bleeding; but maybe not?)? Thanks.
Don't even need any special tools just a Turkey baster and 2nd person
Not that helpful 4eyes
That was not a good video....what about the other two bottles, do you not have to push the brake down???? Thumbs down for me, needed more detail
There are many MISTAKES in your video.
1) Don't top up the brake fluid reservoir first with new fluid. You remove the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, then top up with new fluid.
2) You started the flush with the passenger side wheel. Wrong. The correct order for LHD vehicles is front left, front right, rear left, rear right.
3) You don't flush 'whatever' quantity of fluid at each wheel. There is a specific amount to flush for each wheel. Otherwise, you are wasting new fluid. See the workshop manual.
4) On Tiguan the hydraulic clutch system uses the same brake fluid. You didn't flush the clutch system. You risk the clutch pedal to sink to the floor and never come back from the dirt accumulated in the clutch master cylinder. You might need to change it too if dirt locked it.
Next time, try to be more professional.
"Hydroscopic" is the term you're looking for...
Hygroscopic is actually the correct term. Even though it does sound counter intuitive
"D" shows a chemical affinity for H2O.
Feel free to look it up and verify but Hydroscopic is not correct
Thanks guys....I learned something here. Hygroscopic is the proper term. Hydroscopic is the adjective form of Hydroscope.
And I, too, learned something. While "Google" comes up with "there ain't no such animal", "Hydro"-scopic pertains to liquid water. "HyGro"-scopic pertains to moisture (partial concentration).
Shity brake fluid flush, you need to use the brake bleeding software...
Not for a flush, you only need to actuate the ABS module if there is air in the system.