Hey I was wondering what your thoughts were on the dewalt cordless biscuit joiner. I notices you had one and I held off on buying it because my corded dewalt biscuit joiner isn't it. I haven't tried the lamello biscuits yet so that might help.
I use a jigsaw when scribing to hardwood floor. I put the piece in place, mark my scribe line, cut near the line with a jigsaw, then sand up to, and split the scribe-line with a Festool sander. Works well for me. Also worth mentioning, I find the largest gap between the bottom of the base and the floor, and factor that space into my scribing. Nothing is worse than scribing your first piece, only to find that your next piece is to short because of a rise/fall in the flooring. Great vid!
I scribe all my base and tack it to the wall with laser level all the way around the room. And then clamp to a work station then use a power plane and dust extractor. To back cut and trim the waste, takes a bit to get used to but you can move some wood. Best part is it's all level when finished. Helps keep everything square and easier to continue with paneling on walls
I use that same technique of cutting freehand on the table saw...it's similar to holding a cue stick when shooting pool. Plus it keeps my left hand away from the blade.
I’m a finish carpenter in Utah this is the process we always do. Makes a good final product. I love the razor scribe ink scribe tool. I have been using it for years. Great video.
OK, most of the guys weighing in are trim carpenters. Homeowner here. I specifically asked my builder and I was adamant. I was not going to do shoe molding in my home. It is a custom home. It is my dream home and I’m not rich by any stretch, but it was just something I was adamant on. I’m a pretty good amateur woodworker so I’m not completely ignorant, but I had no idea why he really was not happy with me. I paid for it and it was definitely extra, but it was worth it. I talked to the trim carpenter and he said it added a good solid three days on the project. To me it just screams professionalism. But as one guy commented everybody wants it, but they’re not willing to pay for it. Quite frankly that’s BS never rip off a sub and their expertise. Pay accordingly or don’t do it.
I just finished installing some baseboard (or skirting board as well call it!) over in the UK. I decided to add a very small chamfer with router (around 1/32") where the baseboard meets the flooring. This allowed me to nestle some painters tape and get a super crisp finish and makes it easy to repaint in future.
I install in high-end homes in Colorado, and we do the same process that you are doing in your video. Sometimes, the base is prime, sometimes not. I personally like this method as you get a much better finish product.
Thanks for sharing your methods! After using a tracksaw for 4 years on prefinished cabinetry,have found a preference for using it over a tablesaw personally. Sometimes arched base,which leds itself to a tracksaw ..so its easier to use only one tool. Scribing flat base and ends @5°, crown and wood countertops @15°. For sheet goods I prefer a marking knife to prevent tearout. My method is tracksaw close to the line, then use one of these depending on the situation. Planer,belt sander,flap disc or ro sander. Scribing a 3/4 long,prefinished inside-outside miter piece isn't a lot of fun. We all have our different ways ,using different materials. Thank goodness I don't have to scribe mdf!
We used masonite over rosin paper. You ain't dropping anything that'll go through that and you can reuse the masonite on other jobs when you're done with that one. We also used that big white rolls of fluffy one side sticks to the floor with no residue during removal and the other side has a waterproof barrier for paint and mud and stuff. Your videos are cool. Thank you.
Use a hand grinder with 80 grit sanding disc, great precision and control . My coworker used the freehand saw but after he saw me grinding my scribe line he grinds now 😅
Yes, what a great invention for grinding away the wood: the 80 grit sanding disc (not to be confused with flapper disc), so much faster and way easier than using a belt sander.
I personally use the razor scribe with the blade. I put yellow frog tape on the piece I am scribing, run the blade along the wall or the floor or whatever it may be and then I remove the masking tape side where the material is going to be removed and then I can either freehand it like you are or I can take a belt sander to it. I think a belt sander is much more accurate than a block plane. A belt sander can conform to dips and convex areas more easily, where a block plane is going to just stay straight. The yellow frog tape that is removed is a lot easier to see than a pencil line, especially when using a belt sander. I have been a high-end pro custom cabinet maker/furniture builder for 30 years. If there is less than an 1/8” of material to remove, it’s safer to just use the belt sander the whole way. I also think it is much better to pre-paint the molding, nail it on, fill it with drydex and then touch it up…… unless of course they are spraying the molding, but then they have to tape off the floor.
@@InsiderCarpentry everyone has their own set of standards and what is going to make them the most money. With the clientele I typically deal with, they would not accept up to a 1/16” gap. They would want me to make it as tight as possible. You have a great business doing what you are doing. I am more on the cabinetry and furniture side of things and for what people pay me to do work for them, they expect as close to perfection as possible.
Oh, I agree Spencer. I bought the one you have through your link. Suits my needs and I think a bit easier than the FastCap one I have.@@InsiderCarpentry
@@freddyramirez1820 actually you’re wrong. They do pay me to be that picky. I have 30 years in this business and 24 years of self employment. There is a big difference between being a cabinet maker/furniture builder and a carpenter. A carpenter I am not.
I installed miles of trim in the last 35 years on the job and it is always best to at least have that wood base to be primed before you install it if the painters are not planning to spray paint it
In rooms where we set up shop we lay 1/8" tempered masonite over ramboard, no worries about dropping a hammer on finished floor. you can tape it together w/ ramboard tape, and it's pretty reusable.
I’ve had quite a few jigsaws over the years, from Bosch, Festools, Makita, but that cordless Dewalt is so much better than any of them, maybe the weight, but it just stays in the cut better. Also I just installed crown molding in my house, it’s around 31/2” and the miter thing just wasn’t happening, so I coped it all and the results were awesome, that’s how I’ll do all my crown from now on
thanks for saying that 'that cordless Dewalt jigsaw so much better than any of them, [etc.]' : please share with me~us the model number of the one you have.
Everything is prefinished here in Wisconsin. I see all the raw wood in your videos and get so jealous because I completely agree with you that it’s the best finished look in the end if the painter can do all 3 coats in place.
In central Wisconsin. New construction home builder. Nothing is pre finished. That’s garbage. Painted packages are all primed but not finished. Some one coat, then install, then prep and second coat. I install just primed then prepped and 2 coated. Walls all cut back in after.
New video as always, in the Pacific Northwest we don’t use shoe and most everything is prefinish including pre painted millwork, I miss the days of installing pre primed, can’t stress enough that if you don’t us the technique Spence is showing you you will chase your tail trying to scribe base. You the man
Same thing I do, just a quick tip - when you freehand cut thin pieces off baseboards sometimes you have a lot of small pieces breaking off flying and you overall can get a lot of dust and splinters if you don't have a vacuum because breaker on the job site can't handle both at the same time or it doesn't have enough pull you can get a small fan to run next to you against the blade, it will keep everything flying away from infront of you and makes line visibly crisp and no pieces to annoy or to get in your eyes.
I use a small 18-24” 2x4 cut at roughly a 15 degree angle flat. This usually will persuade the base moulding to the floor surface by pushing my weight down on the moulding.i usually mill my own Poplar that’s not too tall about 3 1/4 to 3 3/4” unless your dealing with tall ceilings at 9 feet plus top plate. I’m thinking if you have crown moulding throughout then 4 1/4” or greater is fine to balance the aesthetic. 😮 I also would run a piece of actual flooring down first then the moulding. The moulding isn’t going to contact the concrete. Before I scribe I stand back and look. I knock down the high spots and then dry fit. I use a small block plane and back bevel a few degree, makes it easier to tighten the scribe. If the floor is really screwed you can cut the long strip into 2-3 sections as a last resort or cut the corner off at 3 feet to make the corners match. After you’ve taken out the highs you can then scribe and fine tune. I did read some of the below comments and I always prime both sides and typically 2 coats on the face. I run 2-3 back kerfs 1”8 FTG on the back to help the base conform to downward pressure, nails off with 18 gauge. If the floor is a real issue then you could take a concrete grinder and level off the floor, which you should do anyway if there’s some real problem areas. If you can run your hand across the floor and feel valleys and hills then you should really prep the concrete. I did see at a jobsite some LVP that was sold with relief cuts across all the planks to conform to irregularities in the floor. On plywood subfloors you can add a sheet of 3/8 to 5/8 underlayment to help cover up the anomalies and I’ve used Bondo and also a floor sander to feather out sections. Anyway it’s time consuming if the floor is uneven.
great knowledge share, brother.; thanks. one question : whats FTG stand for in "2-3 back kerfs 1”8 FTG," ; (and that's 1/8" you meant instead of 1"8, right; if not, please say what that means, too)
1/8” correct. You could go a smidge deeper. FTG = Flat Tooth Grind. It gives you a flat cut, no bat ears bat. The typical blade is ATB. Alternating Top Bevel. By making the kerfs on the back depending on the material will help with the baseboard to conform to small irregularities. It’s not scientifically proven but I think it also helps to keep from twisting over time. I’m talking about using Poplar as a baseboard and milling it. It’s strong and will take light abuse over time. Paints well but needs several coats. I also use a regular kerf blade 1/8” FTG when doing the channels (back kerf).
Welcome back to YT,, We try and have all the paint grade material that isn't factory printed at minimum site primed before installation. For one thing is seems to show imperfect mating surfaces. Cut lines, copes and scribes a little easier to follow particularly in low light with old eyes.
Great video. Why not set up a couple of more material support stands behind the table saw? It might take away the anticipation of the material dropping off the support. If you are going to make a mistake it will happen when anticipating something to happen.
MDF trim any caring carpenter primers the raw MDF backs and bottom if raw MDF and the floor ends of the door casings to prevent it deforming when water will inevitably get on to it.
I hate scribing base...and I totally agree w you about installing the base base raw and making they the painters and homeowners enjoy in the pain of modern scribed base jobs! Get out sprayer again fellas 😂 Most dont realize the amount of cost associated associated w this procedure...carpenter s, painters and site protection= big $$$ it is a real ordeal
I am in CT, built many homes at different price points. If the flooring is prefinished as this home has, we do the same system. The flooring is scheduled during the trim install. If we install unfinished hardwood, we actually use oak shoe with rabbetted base. My own home has a 2nd applied shoe to the wood base. But .. great craftmanship by you.. wanna come to New England?
I like the clean look of the base against the floor scribed nicely but I also don’t mind at all having a shoe. People complain it’s for hacks but on some moulding profiles I’d argue it even looks better
nice tips, i use the same brand scriber but i use the razor scribe version. generally i don't like free handing on the table saw, i find it unnecessarily risky. i use a grinder to just abrade it right up to my razor line, when you get it right youll just break off at that line and you can go back with sand paper and get it perfect.
Spencer you should 1000000% consider creating a book or a series of books. I'm new to production trim work and there are very little resources except 20 year old books and videos!
I actually use the DeWalt atomic saw to cut scribes, you can move the blade guide on it so you can move it to cut right under the line and it's pretty accurate, I just put the Diablo 4½ 36 teeth blade.
It takes so much more time. As a painter i have to spray it first. 1 coat sprayed and wiped with a brush so it touches up well. 1 more coat spray to get 100% coversge feom the brush on 1st coat. Dried. Stored and double handed. Then after walls have 2 coats you have to come back caulk and putty and paint again.
We pre finish everything. I always ask the painter what he wants and it's always primed and one coat. Than it's installed and painter fills nail holes and top coat. Stain grade is the same way. The painter needs to be happy cause he has the final step on the trim. If he's happy the job just works better. Minnesota
@@ForrestColeman trim is primed or stained with a top coat off site. After it's installed the finish and touch up on walls is done, with a brush. Painter has a lot of flexibility with time, it flows really good
Spencer, great video as always. Make a comment about the out feed table you have with that DeWalt portable table saw. That is a great addition and perhaps a video about your use of the portable job site saw and why you use the DeWalt?
Vancouver Canada here, interesting to see that. I've never done a new build with shoe molding it's typically used as a cheat when someone gets new flooring and doesn't want to replace their baseboard. We go in and install doors and then everything else happens after flooring goes in
Just run shoe and forget this time consuming step. Shoe protects the base. Covers the imperfections between base and floor. In the future if the floors get refinished much easier to pull shoe to do the job and reinstall. Worked this way over 100 years. Don’t need to reinvent the wheel.
@@lyndonwhitson2269 ya it's definitely way easier to run shoe but it's frowned upon here as a cheap shortcut. Also typically on higher end builds a lot of effort is put in to make sure the floors are perfectly flat. One of the last houses I did was 10k sqft none of the base had to get scribed. The last house I did was a 13mil build and I had to scribe one piece of base. Ripping 5° off the back bottom corner helps out a lot as well
@@sinatabrizi4794 10” white oak base on sun dried terra cotta floors are fun. Kitchen base cabinets with prefinished toe kicks set on terra cotta get you cutting your morning coffee to a half cup. Try to tell the designer that the floors look better with a uniform grout joint at perimeters and against cabinetry. Well, try to tell designers anything.
Here in southern Ontario, almost all the base I install has 1 coat of paint on it already. The painter fills, caulks and paints again after install. A lot of the trim I do is also after floors too. A lot of diy painting, not a lot of spraying until you get into higher end
I live and work in southern New England and here shoemold doesn’t touch anything but a flip or an oops. Usually here baseboard is being installed after floor install but before floor finish. If you’re lucky you’ll get a perimeter sand before base but that’s it. Things are changing more to all engineered floors which helps but it’s not rare to see an 8” character grade white oak which is not fun to scribe too.
yeah. $100 US for a scribe tool? No thanks. I'll be keeping my cash. I don't care how good it is. At that price, it should cut the scribe and install it, too. Even the Razorscribe Pro Aluminum is only $45 with plenty of adjustability. Oh, it leaves a cut line, too, and lays flatter on the floor. No worry about cutting my fingertips or my bags on the "extra blades", either.
@@AlAmantea that also looks like a decent scribe tool. The price for mine is a tough one. I also only use one blade in mine. Don’t see the need for all 3. To each their own I guess
@@AlAmantea I agree it's a lot of money but... With the trend of dark colored cabinetry/wall units, and are prefinished, being able to lay down some yellow frog tape, scribe it and pull the unwanted piece of tape and clearly seeing a razor line is pretty darn nice. But, yep $100 ain't cheap.
I see that you use segmented poplar for most of your trim. Does it paint well? In some applications we Would 45 degree bevel rip the bottom so that you can block plane easier or even hand sand that scribe. Great job on the video!
Spencer, I hope you did not think my comment was anything negative about your work. I went back through some of your videos, and you are a true master of your trade. It's rare to have a subcontractor (at your age) who looks for ways to make other subcontractors' jobs easier. We build high end homes that can take up to 3 years to complete and wish all of my subcontractors had your attitude when it comes to work ethics. People of your caliber have a responsibility to pass on the knowledge and work ethic to others to keep the craft alive. As you well know, sons no longer follow their fathers into the trade, which has caused a severe decline in the workforce and the quality of work performed. Keep up the great work. Sincerely, an insider carpentry fan.
We've done a few no shoe molding jobs, but they want it done at shoe molding prices so we haven't scribed anything. That's why I'm working to get away from working for builders and just work on my own houses, and select customer jobs. Also, I agree painting trim in place is the way to go. We always Let the flooring guys go first, then we cover the floors, install all the trim, fill nails holes, sand, caulk and spray all the trim, paint the walls and done. The tape will pull pretty easily from under the base and leave you with a clean, slick looking finish. I've tried painting trim first before and it was awful.
Yea, builders expect you to bid vs other people, then want all the top notch work after they get you, or there is always "changes" after what you ready bid for..then they get suprised when you tell them its ganna be extra..like what i bid is not even the job anymore, but they still want the same $
At 20:50… I’m confused. Whether you’re scribing baseboard or adding shoe moulding, the painter still has to come in after the floor guy to either paint the scribed baseboard or the shoe moulding
Up here in the frozen north . Have not had the opportunity to trick out a house with this beauty of a base board . Your scribing technique is “old school” but the only way to give satisfying result. Btw, new way to do it is : slap it fast and move on to the next , not our choice, budget dictate
Curious Spence why the blade on the table saw is set so high. Even with the 5 degree bevel seems it could be set down another inch for sure. Safety wise…. On your fingers and even less pull on the material.
I would like to know the name of the scribe tool also. I see someone has a comment here saying it’s $100, well if the tool fits the job then it’s worth it. I’ve looked at Amazon and Fastcap but can’t find it.
@@timothykuharich9967 Strange, I found it and posted the link here. But the comment has disappeared. The name is Razorscribe ink and it is sold via amazon for 35,99 dollar.
“Astutely” that’s the word your looking for. Resting your hand on the front of the table saw allows you to astutely cut the scribe!…..1 thing I’ve noticed doing this is that if your board support is a roller; if it is not tooling perfectly parallel to the saw (or if your moving the board side to side, like when your scribing) it end up influencing your cut
Did you hang all the interior doors and casing pre floor install to the height of the flooring? Or did they undercut everything? With wood floors we typically hang interior doors after flooring is installed
Hey Spencer. Thx so much for your great content. Just wondering what brand your outfeed supports are? I’ve been searching for something like that but haven’t been able to find them.
Amazing work! With baseboards so tight to the floor is your painter free handing that floor/baseboard line or taping it off or using some sort of guide to protect the floor?
I prefer to put the first coat of paint on baseboard before install. Especially in kitchens and bathrooms. It allows me to seal the wood that is touching the floor..should the floor get wet the wood doesn't soak it up. Unfortunately the razor scribe is out of stock .. I really like the size of it..mine is a little larger and longer.
U R not a finish carpenter unless u can perform this free-hand taper cutting, etc. How do u get it, Takes some years to develope ur style, then ur good to go. We do plenty of wall/ceiling re-plumbing/re-leveling and use a alum bar on lumber as needed also. Old saying is tool over the material or material over the tool! Appreciate ur channel, Thanks!
Question for anyone. I've never cut with a tablesaw without the fence. Is that .... safe - or a respectable risk? I mean, isn't that what a bandsaw is for which I use for things like this?
@@JackKirbyFan I would say that the first thing is to keep any materials run through the saw this way flat. Second is to not run materials this way aggressively. I only acquired this skill out of necessity. As Spencer displayed in his video, keep your hands anchored and away from the blade. Stay safe.
@@steelbrad Thank you for the intel. Personally, I've never had a need to do this and I don't think I want to risk it. Furniture making is dangerous enough :)
in my experience it's not much different than using a skilsaw, actually easier. in thinking about what causes a board to bind and kickback, it might be less likely without a fence, unless you're trying to cope the ocean waves
Scribing Tool Below! Thanks for your support!!!
Razor Scribe Ink Scribing Tool - amzn.to/48YNMhI (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Razor Scribe Ink Refills (3) - amzn.to/3PoRFFs (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Hey I was wondering what your thoughts were on the dewalt cordless biscuit joiner. I notices you had one and I held off on buying it because my corded dewalt biscuit joiner isn't it. I haven't tried the lamello biscuits yet so that might help.
I use a jigsaw when scribing to hardwood floor. I put the piece in place, mark my scribe line, cut near the line with a jigsaw, then sand up to, and split the scribe-line with a Festool sander. Works well for me. Also worth mentioning, I find the largest gap between the bottom of the base and the floor, and factor that space into my scribing. Nothing is worse than scribing your first piece, only to find that your next piece is to short because of a rise/fall in the flooring. Great vid!
Finally! A video with the actual cut and not just the marking of the trim, which is helpful for newbies like me.
I scribe all my base and tack it to the wall with laser level all the way around the room. And then clamp to a work station then use a power plane and dust extractor. To back cut and trim the waste, takes a bit to get used to but you can move some wood. Best part is it's all level when finished. Helps keep everything square and easier to continue with paneling on walls
I use that same technique of cutting freehand on the table saw...it's similar to holding a cue stick when shooting pool. Plus it keeps my left hand away from the blade.
At 20:40 just rip down some 1/4”x1/4” strips and cut them 1/2” long, then install them on the back piece in the corner 😁
I’m a finish carpenter in Utah this is the process we always do. Makes a good final product. I love the razor scribe ink scribe tool. I have been using it for years. Great video.
OK, most of the guys weighing in are trim carpenters. Homeowner here. I specifically asked my builder and I was adamant. I was not going to do shoe molding in my home. It is a custom home. It is my dream home and I’m not rich by any stretch, but it was just something I was adamant on.
I’m a pretty good amateur woodworker so I’m not completely ignorant, but I had no idea why he really was not happy with me. I paid for it and it was definitely extra, but it was worth it. I talked to the trim carpenter and he said it added a good solid three days on the project.
To me it just screams professionalism. But as one guy commented everybody wants it, but they’re not willing to pay for it. Quite frankly that’s BS never rip off a sub and their expertise. Pay accordingly or don’t do it.
I just finished installing some baseboard (or skirting board as well call it!) over in the UK. I decided to add a very small chamfer with router (around 1/32") where the baseboard meets the flooring. This allowed me to nestle some painters tape and get a super crisp finish and makes it easy to repaint in future.
I install lots of base and I'm going to give it a try on a test area to see how it comes out ! Great idea ! Have a good day from Seattle !
Spencer, all your work is really incredible, the quality in each project is super, the mediocre ones will always criticize
I install in high-end homes in Colorado, and we do the same process that you are doing in your video. Sometimes, the base is prime, sometimes not.
I personally like this method as you get a much better finish product.
Thanks for sharing your methods!
After using a tracksaw for 4 years on prefinished cabinetry,have found a preference for using it over a tablesaw personally.
Sometimes arched base,which leds itself to a tracksaw ..so its easier to use only one tool.
Scribing flat base and ends @5°,
crown and wood countertops @15°.
For sheet goods I prefer a marking knife to prevent tearout.
My method is tracksaw close to the line, then use one of these depending on the situation.
Planer,belt sander,flap disc or ro sander.
Scribing a 3/4 long,prefinished inside-outside miter piece isn't a lot of fun.
We all have our different ways ,using different materials.
Thank goodness I don't have to scribe mdf!
Try this method on the tablesaw. It will be way faster. Just make sure your tablesaw has a riving knife for safety and control.
@@danbeeson9564
I like using the table saw to scribe, but occasionally I'll announce 8 ball corner pocket before turning on the saw.
We used masonite over rosin paper. You ain't dropping anything that'll go through that and you can reuse the masonite on other jobs when you're done with that one. We also used that big white rolls of fluffy one side sticks to the floor with no residue during removal and the other side has a waterproof barrier for paint and mud and stuff. Your videos are cool.
Thank you.
Use a hand grinder with 80 grit sanding disc, great precision and control . My coworker used the freehand saw but after he saw me grinding my scribe line he grinds now 😅
Yes, what a great invention for grinding away the wood: the 80 grit sanding disc (not to be confused with flapper disc), so much faster and way easier than using a belt sander.
No judgement just awe as you eyeball that scribe cut
It isn't as hard as you think.
Just takes a little bit of practice
I personally use the razor scribe with the blade. I put yellow frog tape on the piece I am scribing, run the blade along the wall or the floor or whatever it may be and then I remove the masking tape side where the material is going to be removed and then I can either freehand it like you are or I can take a belt sander to it. I think a belt sander is much more accurate than a block plane. A belt sander can conform to dips and convex areas more easily, where a block plane is going to just stay straight. The yellow frog tape that is removed is a lot easier to see than a pencil line, especially when using a belt sander. I have been a high-end pro custom cabinet maker/furniture builder for 30 years. If there is less than an 1/8” of material to remove, it’s safer to just use the belt sander the whole way.
I also think it is much better to pre-paint the molding, nail it on, fill it with drydex and then touch it up…… unless of course they are spraying the molding, but then they have to tape off the floor.
While that method may yield a great result its just a bit overkill and not cost effective for scribing baseboard.
@@InsiderCarpentry everyone has their own set of standards and what is going to make them the most money. With the clientele I typically deal with, they would not accept up to a 1/16” gap. They would want me to make it as tight as possible.
You have a great business doing what you are doing.
I am more on the cabinetry and furniture side of things and for what people pay me to do work for them, they expect as close to perfection as possible.
Oh, I agree Spencer. I bought the one you have through your link. Suits my needs and I think a bit easier than the FastCap one I have.@@InsiderCarpentry
@@mim2046i doubt they pay you enough tho to be that picky..thats always the issue, they expect perfection after they make you bid for the work😂
@@freddyramirez1820 actually you’re wrong. They do pay me to be that picky. I have 30 years in this business and 24 years of self employment. There is a big difference between being a cabinet maker/furniture builder and a carpenter. A carpenter I am not.
I installed miles of trim in the last 35 years on the job and it is always best to at least have that wood base to be primed before you install it if the painters are not planning to spray paint it
Here in mid Michigan trim is always primed and 1 coat of paint before installing.
Im in n Michigan and can say not always, most of my jobs it isn’t primed.
“Safety squint engaged”. 😂
A little nervous about this, but that's probably a good thing.... Thanks for the pro lesson....
In rooms where we set up shop we lay 1/8" tempered masonite over ramboard, no worries about dropping a hammer on finished floor. you can tape it together w/ ramboard tape, and it's pretty reusable.
I do the exact same thing,works great
I’ve had quite a few jigsaws over the years, from Bosch, Festools, Makita, but that cordless Dewalt is so much better than any of them, maybe the weight, but it just stays in the cut better. Also I just installed crown molding in my house, it’s around 31/2” and the miter thing just wasn’t happening, so I coped it all and the results were awesome, that’s how I’ll do all my crown from now on
thanks for saying that 'that cordless Dewalt jigsaw so much better than any of them, [etc.]' : please share with me~us the model number of the one you have.
@@TedBruckner not sure how many cordless jigsaws they have but it has a top handle and takes a battery
Everything is prefinished here in Wisconsin. I see all the raw wood in your videos and get so jealous because I completely agree with you that it’s the best finished look in the end if the painter can do all 3 coats in place.
In central Wisconsin. New construction home builder. Nothing is pre finished. That’s garbage. Painted packages are all primed but not finished. Some one coat, then install, then prep and second coat. I install just primed then prepped and 2 coated. Walls all cut back in after.
Thanks Spencer I really appreciate your mindfulness of the Tradesmen that follow you
Thanks for this and for all your content, literally doing this right now...
Yes, we need the link for the scribing tool.
It is called Razoscribe Ink, and sold via Amazon 35.99 dollar and 19 dollar for 3 ink recharges.
amzn.to/48YNMhI
we've been jack coping that profile.
New video as always, in the Pacific Northwest we don’t use shoe and most everything is prefinish including pre painted millwork, I miss the days of installing pre primed, can’t stress enough that if you don’t us the technique Spence is showing you you will chase your tail trying to scribe base.
You the man
Nice video
Same thing I do, just a quick tip - when you freehand cut thin pieces off baseboards sometimes you have a lot of small pieces breaking off flying and you overall can get a lot of dust and splinters if you don't have a vacuum because breaker on the job site can't handle both at the same time or it doesn't have enough pull you can get a small fan to run next to you against the blade, it will keep everything flying away from infront of you and makes line visibly crisp and no pieces to annoy or to get in your eyes.
Love your videos man been a carpenter for 4 years now learning so much new stuff from your videos thank you
Beautiful workmanship !!! I would hope this is an additional charge !!!
Looks like you're shooting pool when free-handing on the table saw. Thanks for the helpful vid.
I use a small 18-24” 2x4 cut at roughly a 15 degree angle flat. This usually will persuade the base moulding to the floor surface by pushing my weight down on the moulding.i usually mill my own Poplar that’s not too tall about 3 1/4 to 3 3/4” unless your dealing with tall ceilings at 9 feet plus top plate. I’m thinking if you have crown moulding throughout then 4 1/4” or greater is fine to balance the aesthetic. 😮
I also would run a piece of actual flooring down first then the moulding. The moulding isn’t going to contact the concrete. Before I scribe I stand back and look. I knock down the high spots and then dry fit. I use a small block plane and back bevel a few degree, makes it easier to tighten the scribe. If the floor is really screwed you can cut the long strip into 2-3 sections as a last resort or cut the corner off at 3 feet to make the corners match. After you’ve taken out the highs you can then scribe and fine tune.
I did read some of the below comments and I always prime both sides and typically 2 coats on the face. I run 2-3 back kerfs 1”8 FTG on the back to help the base conform to downward pressure, nails off with 18 gauge. If the floor is a real issue then you could take a concrete grinder and level off the floor, which you should do anyway if there’s some real problem areas. If you can run your hand across the floor and feel valleys and hills then you should really prep the concrete. I did see at a jobsite some LVP that was sold with relief cuts across all the planks to conform to irregularities in the floor.
On plywood subfloors you can add a sheet of 3/8 to 5/8 underlayment to help cover up the anomalies and I’ve used Bondo and also a floor sander to feather out sections. Anyway it’s time consuming if the floor is uneven.
great knowledge share, brother.; thanks. one question : whats FTG stand for in "2-3 back kerfs 1”8 FTG," ; (and that's 1/8" you meant instead of 1"8, right; if not, please say what that means, too)
1/8” correct. You could go a smidge deeper. FTG = Flat Tooth Grind. It gives you a flat cut, no bat ears bat. The typical blade is ATB. Alternating Top Bevel. By making the kerfs on the back depending on the material will help with the baseboard to conform to small irregularities. It’s not scientifically proven but I think it also helps to keep from twisting over time. I’m talking about using Poplar as a baseboard and milling it. It’s strong and will take light abuse over time. Paints well but needs several coats. I also use a regular kerf blade 1/8” FTG when doing the channels (back kerf).
Mitchel, thank you for teaching me this! 'Have a beautiful day.@@mitchellkasdin1899
Welcome back to YT,, We try and have all the paint grade material that isn't factory printed at minimum site primed before installation. For one thing is seems to show imperfect mating surfaces. Cut lines, copes and scribes a little easier to follow particularly in low light with old eyes.
Great video.
Why not set up a couple of more material support stands behind the table saw? It might take away the anticipation of the material dropping off the support. If you are going to make a mistake it will happen when anticipating something to happen.
Cool to see the material of your base. I install cabinets for new construction homes in Utah and all trim is MDF which I think is terrible.
MDF trim any caring carpenter primers the raw MDF backs and bottom if raw MDF and the floor ends of the door casings to prevent it deforming when water will inevitably get on to it.
I hate scribing base...and I totally agree w you about installing the base base raw and making they the painters and homeowners enjoy in the pain of modern scribed base jobs! Get out sprayer again fellas 😂
Most dont realize the amount of cost associated associated w this procedure...carpenter s, painters and site protection= big $$$ it is a real ordeal
Thanks!
You bet!
I am in CT, built many homes at different price points. If the flooring is prefinished as this home has, we do the same system. The flooring is scheduled during the trim install. If we install unfinished hardwood, we actually use oak shoe with rabbetted base. My own home has a 2nd applied shoe to the wood base. But .. great craftmanship by you.. wanna come to New England?
I like the clean look of the base against the floor scribed nicely but I also don’t mind at all having a shoe. People complain it’s for hacks but on some moulding profiles I’d argue it even looks better
nice tips, i use the same brand scriber but i use the razor scribe version. generally i don't like free handing on the table saw, i find it unnecessarily risky. i use a grinder to just abrade it right up to my razor line, when you get it right youll just break off at that line and you can go back with sand paper and get it perfect.
Spencer you should 1000000% consider creating a book or a series of books. I'm new to production trim work and there are very little resources except 20 year old books and videos!
I actually use the DeWalt atomic saw to cut scribes, you can move the blade guide on it so you can move it to cut right under the line and it's pretty accurate, I just put the Diablo 4½ 36 teeth blade.
Great video! How do you bid jobs differently if you need to scribe the baseboard?
Always a help, Thanks Spencer
It takes so much more time. As a painter i have to spray it first. 1 coat sprayed and wiped with a brush so it touches up well. 1 more coat spray to get 100% coversge feom the brush on 1st coat. Dried. Stored and double handed. Then after walls have 2 coats you have to come back caulk and putty and paint again.
here in Rhode Island we do it the same way, I will install all of my trim first and then I have the painter come in last.
But we also use PrePrimed Pine, compared to Poplar
We pre finish everything. I always ask the painter what he wants and it's always primed and one coat. Than it's installed and painter fills nail holes and top coat. Stain grade is the same way. The painter needs to be happy cause he has the final step on the trim. If he's happy the job just works better. Minnesota
so the painter comes once before any flooring is in to spray primer on all the trim? how does this fit into a construction process
@@ForrestColeman trim is primed or stained with a top coat off site. After it's installed the finish and touch up on walls is done, with a brush. Painter has a lot of flexibility with time, it flows really good
nice work looks good this is the only way i do base i refuse to put it in first and use 1/4 round
I usually use a handheld power planer for scribing base, saves some time and it's more precise
I'll back cut the and get rid of some material and get the belt sander on it, goes pretty quick
Excellent as always!
Spencer, great video as always. Make a comment about the out feed table you have with that DeWalt portable table saw. That is a great addition and perhaps a video about your use of the portable job site saw and why you use the DeWalt?
Vancouver Canada here, interesting to see that. I've never done a new build with shoe molding it's typically used as a cheat when someone gets new flooring and doesn't want to replace their baseboard. We go in and install doors and then everything else happens after flooring goes in
Think of shoe moldings as steel toed work boots. Saves the base from the aggressive vacuum cleaner.
Just run shoe and forget this time consuming step. Shoe protects the base. Covers the imperfections between base and floor. In the future if the floors get refinished much easier to pull shoe to do the job and reinstall. Worked this way over 100 years. Don’t need to reinvent the wheel.
@@lyndonwhitson2269 ya it's definitely way easier to run shoe but it's frowned upon here as a cheap shortcut. Also typically on higher end builds a lot of effort is put in to make sure the floors are perfectly flat. One of the last houses I did was 10k sqft none of the base had to get scribed. The last house I did was a 13mil build and I had to scribe one piece of base. Ripping 5° off the back bottom corner helps out a lot as well
@@sinatabrizi4794 10” white oak base on sun dried terra cotta floors are fun. Kitchen base cabinets with prefinished toe kicks set on terra cotta get you cutting your morning coffee to a half cup. Try to tell the designer that the floors look better with a uniform grout joint at perimeters and against cabinetry. Well, try to tell designers anything.
Here in southern Ontario, almost all the base I install has 1 coat of paint on it already. The painter fills, caulks and paints again after install. A lot of the trim I do is also after floors too. A lot of diy painting, not a lot of spraying until you get into higher end
Not very much shoe mold
I live and work in southern New England and here shoemold doesn’t touch anything but a flip or an oops. Usually here baseboard is being installed after floor install but before floor finish. If you’re lucky you’ll get a perimeter sand before base but that’s it. Things are changing more to all engineered floors which helps but it’s not rare to see an 8” character grade white oak which is not fun to scribe too.
Thingamejig Precision Tools in my opinion is the best scribing tool.
Leaves a cut line that’s easy to use grinder or box plane on
Plus I have my base board prepped at shop removing the back half of the material so less to remove
yeah. $100 US for a scribe tool? No thanks. I'll be keeping my cash. I don't care how good it is. At that price, it should cut the scribe and install it, too. Even the Razorscribe Pro Aluminum is only $45 with plenty of adjustability. Oh, it leaves a cut line, too, and lays flatter on the floor. No worry about cutting my fingertips or my bags on the "extra blades", either.
@@AlAmantea that also looks like a decent scribe tool.
The price for mine is a tough one. I also only use one blade in mine. Don’t see the need for all 3.
To each their own I guess
@@AlAmantea I agree it's a lot of money but... With the trend of dark colored cabinetry/wall units, and are prefinished, being able to lay down some yellow frog tape, scribe it and pull the unwanted piece of tape and clearly seeing a razor line is pretty darn nice. But, yep $100 ain't cheap.
I consider my self a first class trim carpenter but your in a class by yourself
Slick work
Sweet house. Nice job, Spencer.
I see that you use segmented poplar for most of your trim. Does it paint well? In some applications we Would 45 degree bevel rip the bottom so that you can block plane easier or even hand sand that scribe. Great job on the video!
Spencer, I hope you did not think my comment was anything negative about your work. I went back through some of your videos, and you are a true master of your trade. It's rare to have a subcontractor (at your age) who looks for ways to make other subcontractors' jobs easier. We build high end homes that can take up to 3 years to complete and wish all of my subcontractors had your attitude when it comes to work ethics. People of your caliber have a responsibility to pass on the knowledge and work ethic to others to keep the craft alive. As you well know, sons no longer follow their fathers into the trade, which has caused a severe decline in the workforce and the quality of work performed.
Keep up the great work.
Sincerely,
an insider carpentry fan.
I have the same safety glasses. 😂. Awesome work as always spencer. Love your channel.
We've done a few no shoe molding jobs, but they want it done at shoe molding prices so we haven't scribed anything. That's why I'm working to get away from working for builders and just work on my own houses, and select customer jobs. Also, I agree painting trim in place is the way to go. We always Let the flooring guys go first, then we cover the floors, install all the trim, fill nails holes, sand, caulk and spray all the trim, paint the walls and done. The tape will pull pretty easily from under the base and leave you with a clean, slick looking finish. I've tried painting trim first before and it was awful.
Yea, builders expect you to bid vs other people, then want all the top notch work after they get you, or there is always "changes" after what you ready bid for..then they get suprised when you tell them its ganna be extra..like what i bid is not even the job anymore, but they still want the same $
What is the brand of that fabric flooring protection? Thank you for the great videos.
Great videos thanks Spence
At 20:50… I’m confused. Whether you’re scribing baseboard or adding shoe moulding, the painter still has to come in after the floor guy to either paint the scribed baseboard or the shoe moulding
8:45 how do you know what thickness to put the scriber at?
Up here in the frozen north .
Have not had the opportunity to trick out a house with this beauty of a base board .
Your scribing technique is “old school” but the only way to give satisfying result.
Btw, new way to do it is : slap it fast and move on to the next , not our choice, budget dictate
Thk u Spencer!
Curious Spence why the blade on the table saw is set so high. Even with the 5 degree bevel seems it could be set down another inch for sure. Safety wise…. On your fingers and even less pull on the material.
Awesome!
What is that fabric floor protection material called?
Am I missing link to the pen scribe tool?
I am missing the link too ;-)
I would like to know the name of the scribe tool also. I see someone has a comment here saying it’s $100, well if the tool fits the job then it’s worth it. I’ve looked at Amazon and Fastcap but can’t find it.
Razorscribe ink
@@timothykuharich9967 Strange, I found it and posted the link here. But the comment has disappeared. The name is Razorscribe ink and it is sold via amazon for 35,99 dollar.
amzn.to/48YNMhI
“Astutely” that’s the word your looking for. Resting your hand on the front of the table saw allows you to astutely cut the scribe!…..1 thing I’ve noticed doing this is that if your board support is a roller; if it is not tooling perfectly parallel to the saw (or if your moving the board side to side, like when your scribing) it end up influencing your cut
Did you hang all the interior doors and casing pre floor install to the height of the flooring? Or did they undercut everything? With wood floors we typically hang interior doors after flooring is installed
We undercut jambs and casing.
Hey Spencer, where is the link for the scriber you used in the video.
amzn.to/48YNMhI
Hey Spencer. Thx so much for your great content. Just wondering what brand your outfeed supports are? I’ve been searching for something like that but haven’t been able to find them.
Rousseau. Search insider carpentry table saw mods and you'll get a video.
Hey Spencer. I should have been clearer. I meant the flip top tripod stands you have as supports in front of the table saw. Which brand are those?
Where can I get that outfeed table? That thing looks killer for the Dewalt.
Rousseau. Amazon
@@InsiderCarpentry you're the freaking man, thank you Spencer!
Amazing work! With baseboards so tight to the floor is your painter free handing that floor/baseboard line or taping it off or using some sort of guide to protect the floor?
They will tape everything off and spray.
Thought on using a planer to cut the scribe instead of a table saw?
Takes way to long IMO
I prefer to put the first coat of paint on baseboard before install. Especially in kitchens and bathrooms. It allows me to seal the wood that is touching the floor..should the floor get wet the wood doesn't soak it up.
Unfortunately the razor scribe is out of stock .. I really like the size of it..mine is a little larger and longer.
Give it a week it will come back in stock. I often sell out amazon when I mention a niche product.
Beautiful work Spencer. Btw which mechanical pencil do you use/recommend? I like the Pica but sometimes the lead slips when i go to sharpen it.
I use a .09 mechanical with a twist eraser. Pentel I think.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks
Where can i source that baseboard from? Can you provide the manufacturer info?
Are safety glasses not required for this site?
What are you his mother?
Is there any reason to have the table saw blade set so high?
Guiding the scribe cut, I feel like my left hand acts like an adjustable open hand pool bridge.
👍
The blade knife helps stabilize the wood
You have an interesting outfeed table for your table saw, Is that something you purchased or made?
@InsiderCarpentry
13 days ago
Rousseau. Search insider carpentry table saw mods and you'll get a video.
@@TedBruckner- Will do. Thanks.
U R not a finish carpenter unless u can perform this free-hand taper cutting, etc. How do u get it, Takes some years to develope ur style, then ur good to go. We do plenty of wall/ceiling re-plumbing/re-leveling and use a alum bar on lumber as needed also. Old saying is tool over the material or material over the tool! Appreciate ur channel, Thanks!
Man, is there some way i can work for you from Cali??
I believe the scribe tool is called "Razorscribe".
I don't see where you added the link to the scribing tool.
amzn.to/48YNMhI
Thanks!
More to be painted poplar. Do any new homes, especially higher end homes, use natural or stained hardwood anymore?
I would lay some painters masking paper under the base that the painter can just slide out after they spray.
Wax paper is perfect for this,thin and slippery !
Anybody have an alternate refill for the Razor Scribe, amazon gives you the "out of stock , don't know when" statement. Thanks
Give it a week it will come back in stock. I often sell out amazon when I mention a niche product.
Thanks for the infor@@InsiderCarpentry
Anyone know the name or brand of this trim?
The wholesaler is Koetter Woodworking
that's crazy. around here shoe molding a big no. I haven't seen it in 90 years or so
Question for anyone. I've never cut with a tablesaw without the fence. Is that .... safe - or a respectable risk? I mean, isn't that what a bandsaw is for which I use for things like this?
It’s not safe for a DIY person, but as a high end finish carpenter in San Francisco, I can say this is common practice amongst the pros.
@@steelbrad Thanks. Has anything happened that's caught you by surprise in doing this and how did you learn that skill?
@@JackKirbyFan I would say that the first thing is to keep any materials run through the saw this way flat.
Second is to not run materials this way aggressively.
I only acquired this skill out of necessity.
As Spencer displayed in his video, keep your hands anchored and away from the blade.
Stay safe.
@@steelbrad Thank you for the intel. Personally, I've never had a need to do this and I don't think I want to risk it. Furniture making is dangerous enough :)
in my experience it's not much different than using a skilsaw, actually easier. in thinking about what causes a board to bind and kickback, it might be less likely without a fence, unless you're trying to cope the ocean waves
Spencer: What scribing tool did you use? That looks more compact than other scribers. Not Link in description for the scriber
amzn.to/48YNMhI