Hi I'm Karen, my life was great til I became addicted to remodeling my bathroom and restaining my bathroom cabinets. NO STAIN LOOKS LIKE THE PICTURES ON LABELS...WAS THIS DONE TO DRIVE ME INSANE. Was so glad to find your support group. Thank you....
Have worked in the paint industry and a color consultant. When you started in about the pink wood, I was screaming “Add some green to neutralize the red”!!! That was so funny, you put in a great effort.
I'm a pro wood finisher, and you made the right choice for canceling out the pink. I actually teach wood finishing classes, and I use Adobe Premier to explain matching just like you lol!
Where were you a year ago when I needed you most?! 😂 You need to be president of the wood strainers emotional support group. Going to check your channel now to see if you’re sharing the knowledge!
Rubio Monocoat is great for color matching and evening tones. We build a ton of vanities and our top request from interior designers is to match the flooring or other trim work. We’ve found that water popping the grain helps as well. Great video, thanks for sharing. Headed to the shop now to experiment with some green stain!
You have a beautiful house! I purchased a new house and didn’t find out that they didn’t prime the outside trim before painting until everything was rotting. Yes NEW house. I value this video as I want to strip my honey oak kitchen cabinets and it looks pink…..
good video. I deal with this alot myself when matching finishes. It's best to get out a color wheel and start with the basics which is what you ended up doing. Great job and the final color looks good.
This whole video made me laugh...thank you for the sense of humor when dealing with a "pull your hair out" situation. This has also been helpful for a couple red oak and white oak staining projects Iam working on. Thumbs up!
Laughing makes you live longer Nora! True story: I gave the can to a friend of mine and his painter ended up tossing it. I don't remember the exact color but I know it was a cloverdale product.
There's a place called Multifit Blades that makes sanding fingers that fit on oscillating sanders like yours. Instead of having a big triangle, most of which isn't doing much, you have a thumbprint sized pad and velcro-attached abrasive. I find it much easier to use, much faster, and also easier to control the direction of the sanding scratches. Get a whole bunch of those fingers though because they don't last long. I think sanding heat kills them, so I found it useful to keep the speed down, don't press, and maybe even swap pads (enough to make you cuss) to let them cool. Also, you can flip the paper around backwards (pointy end back) to get more use from one little piece of paper. Nothing would have made that sanding job fun or easy, but this might have helped a bit. Yeah, do a test piece, always, but there is another trick that I might have tried. The equivalent to post production color correction is toning, especially when your colors aren't saturated, as is the case here. In toning, you put color _over_ earlier finish coats. There is a chance you could have evened out that lacquer coat (if there were any bare spots) and _then_ applied a dye on top of it and thereby achieved your color correction. If it didn't work, you'd have to sand, which is what you were doing anyway. As a specific example, I'd have tried General Finishes green "dye stain" over the lacquer after waiting suitable time for that lacquer to be dry dry dry....maybe 72 hrs. Finish coats would be needed over that. Here's something you avoided...maybe it will make you feel better. If you put color onto raw oak, since oak is so porous, it can wick over and ooze out elsewhere hours after being applied giving a horrible uneven look. But it is down in the wood at that point and really really hard to get out because oak is so irregular in the surface. Same deal if you put the wrong color on. Everything looks beautiful in the end! Nice work. Not a pro, but hope it helps, and are all things I've done.
3 Options Amigo #1 Reactive Stain to block Pink or Orange ✅ #2. 1 Coat Sealer at 50% ,after that apply wiping stain white at 30% And Clear Coat 2 Coats on 10% Matte finish ✅ 3 Use a Water-based Clear Coat on Matte finish to avoid Ambers or Orange ✅
Dude , you got one of the best video ever. Would be really funny if wasn’t that painful to you for having to sand all that railing. Thank you for the tips .
rubio monocoat 5% smoke does a pretty decent job at keeping the natural color. I have tried combating the pink hue with green in the past but found better success with a very diluted white or 5% smoke color.
@@RinkVideo did you have a chance to rest the Rubio smoke 5%. I’ll be building white oak cabinet doors soon and I’m searching for a light finish also. Cheers from Chicago.
Unseparated, I kind of like the red tones. But I see where you're coming from. You need a colorimeter to do it right. I wonder if they have those for stained wood. I have one for paint. Well, wait a minute. just white balance and run it through your post processor and measure the RGB or HSL. But no fair keeping it to yourself. Let me know!
Wondering if a green lacquer toner over the existing might have saved the sanding. Also figuring you don't want to hear that now but I pulled some evil orange out of a redwood piece with a bit of blue toner. Glad you got it handled.
Rink, where do I get these railings from? My stairs need an update and yours look beautiful. Mine was built in 2010 and for some reason has the same god damn balusters as every other house that's been built since 1982. Why. Glad you were able to salvage your situation man. I don't know what I woulda done.
Did you watch my other vid where I just spiced up the stairs in my old house? It was pretty easy and not that much work. DIY stair railing makeover. Modernizing stairs. th-cam.com/video/4LxSIxMU-jc/w-d-xo.html
For white oak to stay light in color, take a look at Osmo PolyX RAW/Natural (I think it's #3051) or Rubio Monocoat Natural (Oil + 2C I think is the way they label it). Oils tend to make lighter wood look more amber but both of these contain white and/or yellow pigment that offset the amber effect. Stay away from Osmo Clear and Rubio Pure. Both are great on Walnut, but as they contain no pigment, your white oak will dramatically amber. Ask me how I know :-)
Sounds like I need to get some green stain for the kitchen drawer fronts where I have duplicated EXACTLY the same f*ckup. They're now RED & PINK, despite a few other brainstorm efforts, including bleach.
I'm getting ready to do a major project, stain and varnish and i'm wondering what i could use to stay as close to the original white oak color as possible/ Something that preferably not darken the grain too much.
First you need to use a sealer finish that gets into the pores of the wood, It will fill those pores and keep your following finish from penetrating so deep. Since you want it to stay as white as possible, understand that white oak is not actually as white as it looks, so make sure your choice of finish is as clear as it can be. There are some clear varnishes that do not have any color in them, but because the wood does, there is not going to be a solution that will keep the color from getting darker. Adding green toner works best to preserve the whitish color, but it won't stop the wood from looking at least two or three shades darker than it does unfinished, even with the clearest solution of whatever finish you use. A good way to test what the wood color will be when it is finished is to use a damp rag to wet an area of the wood very lightly. The wet color will be close to what it will be when finished.
So now I’m baby crapping in my pants. I just brought $300 of white oak and you’re telling me GREEN. Good thing I haven’t even broke down the wood yet. I’m going into the testing lab now. I’m going to subscribe anyway.Is that weird?
KG, that’s engineered hardwood from China. It’s from the Wildwood Nature Collection called Euro White Oak, KURANG. Hope that helps. It’s bulletproof and I’m really happy with it. ✌️
@RinkVideo are your floors COREtec Cairo Oak LVP? Great video, I am going with fine finish supply Renner product. They have some great videos out about staining white oak.
Hey Will no they are not. I forget the exact name but I'll find it if you need it. I got the floor from Magna Hardwwood Floors International Inc. Relatively inexpensive and absolutely bulletproof if you have pets or kids. Comes from China and the best part is that they run the wood through a big smoker and that gives each piece somewhat of a unique look. I love it. I should have done a full video about that floor.
..."I'm not even going to ask you to subscribe to my channel..." love it. Fixing fuck ups has become my life's work. They are usually MY fuck ups but that's neither here nor there. "This is bullshit" will be written on my gravestone. Great video. Your floors are awesome.
I hired a company to make all the wood in living room. Every time i asked no red or orange in the color, they did like 20 sample and they cant get it done. It maksme crazy
To the painter that sprayed. Use your head .. if it doesnt look right stop ! I sure hope thst you didnt take payment and re paid all the mad hours it took to get it back to square one .
You don’t even want to know the full story. There was a major fallout. Tempers got hot and another painter finished the job. Cost me a good chunk of change and a hard lesson learned.
I am doing a new build and deciding on hand rail stain. They want this before the floors are installed. I want the hand rail to match the floor. What can I use? Assume I know nothing :). Really like the way yours turned out. I really like a natural look but have 4 kids and need durability.
It is and it’s fricking amazing. Comes from China and they smoke it in a kiln so gives a little variety. It’s bulletproof, feels great on the feet and looks amazing. Was relatively inexpensive as well. Got it from a flooring supplier in Calgary.
@@mcclainsgarage3917 depends if there’s children involved 😂. I’m type A and tend to run a tight ship but the engineered flooring is good for hockey, scooters, weird science experiments and all the other things kids get up to. I actually obsess about subfloors more than I do with the flooring 😂
I wore that shirt to a concert the other night and a random dude stopped me to say how awesome it is. That is my favourite piece of clothing that own and it’s from Howler Brothers out of Austin. I absolutely love it.
Just two pieces of mdf. Very minimal. I’m not a fan of anything too ornate. You can easily see here in one of my other vids: Stained Concrete Floor (1 year later) th-cam.com/video/HcqGyrDAe9Y/w-d-xo.html
Let me tell you why I've been so successful in my woodworking career. Research everything you want to do before you try to do it. That means materials, tools, designing, methods, procedures, and finishing. I never tackled anything that was new to me before doing my research, even after I knew a lot about woodworking already. New things are always coming up in my career, and knowing what I have to do before doing it is a very important step. Because of that, I seek out all I can find that is relevant to what I wish to do, and study it. Because I do that, I am successful 95% of the time or better. In the case of your stair bannisters, you should never install them before the surrounding area has been given its finish, and the same goes for cabinetry, window and door frames, etc. Look at your project and figure out what is supposed to be completed when! This is especially true when you are working with others to get a project done. No one likes having to do something over, or to have to fix something that got done too soon. So look at the job ahead, and ask yourself "How far along does the other parts of the job need to be, before I can safely get this part done?" In the case in which other workers are working on areas near what you are going to do, if their work will have an effect on what you must do, if you do your work first, let them get done before you do your work. Yes there may be times when your work might do something bad to their work, so find a way to do your work that has the least impact on what is already done. Also have ways to protect the work of other workers from being affected by your work. In the case of finishes, use shields wherever they are needed. I could tell you literally thousands of things about how to be successful in this type of work, but then I would be writing a whole series of books or more. So my advice is seek out the knowledge you need and study it. Knowing will save you lots of trouble.
Hi I'm Karen, my life was great til I became addicted to remodeling my bathroom and restaining my bathroom cabinets. NO STAIN LOOKS LIKE THE PICTURES ON LABELS...WAS THIS DONE TO DRIVE ME INSANE. Was so glad to find your support group. Thank you....
Lololololololol 👍
Hi Karen
Karen lol
"Did a lot of looking and not saying much", which is rarely a good sign; this video was freaking hilarious!
I should have put way more of the awkward silence in the video! Lolololol. Glad you got a laugh.
Have worked in the paint industry and a color consultant. When you started in about the pink wood, I was screaming “Add some green to neutralize the red”!!! That was so funny, you put in a great effort.
I'm a pro wood finisher, and you made the right choice for canceling out the pink. I actually teach wood finishing classes, and I use Adobe Premier to explain matching just like you lol!
Where were you a year ago when I needed you most?! 😂
You need to be president of the wood strainers emotional support group. Going to check your channel now to see if you’re sharing the knowledge!
Rubio Monocoat is great for color matching and evening tones. We build a ton of vanities and our top request from interior designers is to match the flooring or other trim work. We’ve found that water popping the grain helps as well. Great video, thanks for sharing. Headed to the shop now to experiment with some green stain!
You have a beautiful house! I purchased a new house and didn’t find out that they didn’t prime the outside trim before painting until everything was rotting. Yes NEW house. I value this video as I want to strip my honey oak kitchen cabinets and it looks pink…..
For a guy who announced it wasn't time to be funny, this video was hilarious. (Beautiful home, though).
good video. I deal with this alot myself when matching finishes. It's best to get out a color wheel and start with the basics which is what you ended up doing. Great job and the final color looks good.
Great tips, and great job fixing the problem🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great result. I would like that green stain code too...getting ready to do a lot of white oak finish work and yours looks great!
What is the best bright white stain.
Green turn brown
I wasn’t expecting this to be so funny 😂 love it
This whole video made me laugh...thank you for the sense of humor when dealing with a "pull your hair out" situation. This has also been helpful for a couple red oak and white oak staining projects Iam working on. Thumbs up!
Do you remember what green stain you used to counteract the red tones and would watering it down give a lighter finish? It turned out great.
Laughing makes you live longer Nora! True story: I gave the can to a friend of mine and his painter ended up tossing it. I don't remember the exact color but I know it was a cloverdale product.
You may just have saved me some serious heartache. In any case, I'm here for you bud!
There's a place called Multifit Blades that makes sanding fingers that fit on oscillating sanders like yours. Instead of having a big triangle, most of which isn't doing much, you have a thumbprint sized pad and velcro-attached abrasive. I find it much easier to use, much faster, and also easier to control the direction of the sanding scratches. Get a whole bunch of those fingers though because they don't last long. I think sanding heat kills them, so I found it useful to keep the speed down, don't press, and maybe even swap pads (enough to make you cuss) to let them cool. Also, you can flip the paper around backwards (pointy end back) to get more use from one little piece of paper. Nothing would have made that sanding job fun or easy, but this might have helped a bit.
Yeah, do a test piece, always, but there is another trick that I might have tried. The equivalent to post production color correction is toning, especially when your colors aren't saturated, as is the case here. In toning, you put color _over_ earlier finish coats. There is a chance you could have evened out that lacquer coat (if there were any bare spots) and _then_ applied a dye on top of it and thereby achieved your color correction. If it didn't work, you'd have to sand, which is what you were doing anyway. As a specific example, I'd have tried General Finishes green "dye stain" over the lacquer after waiting suitable time for that lacquer to be dry dry dry....maybe 72 hrs. Finish coats would be needed over that.
Here's something you avoided...maybe it will make you feel better. If you put color onto raw oak, since oak is so porous, it can wick over and ooze out elsewhere hours after being applied giving a horrible uneven look. But it is down in the wood at that point and really really hard to get out because oak is so irregular in the surface. Same deal if you put the wrong color on.
Everything looks beautiful in the end! Nice work. Not a pro, but hope it helps, and are all things I've done.
Your home is beautiful!!!
Thank you!! 😊
3 Options Amigo
#1 Reactive Stain to block Pink or Orange ✅
#2. 1 Coat Sealer at 50% ,after that apply wiping stain white at 30%
And Clear Coat 2 Coats on 10% Matte finish ✅
3 Use a Water-based Clear Coat on Matte finish to avoid Ambers or Orange ✅
Turned out, looking good!
Thankfully I watched this first. I have some white oak furniture that needs lacquer to trap a strong musty smell from storage.
Where do you store your award for Best TH-cam Handle of all time? 😂
Nice recovery! Showing a great job and love the "flavor" of the comments! and, heah, gonna subscribe.
Turned out great! Nice job
Thank you and thanks for watching 🤙
Dude , you got one of the best video ever. Would be really funny if wasn’t that painful to you for having to sand all that railing. Thank you for the tips .
Excellent "Lessons Learned". 👍👍👍
LOL.. first few minutes - feel your pain!!!
rubio monocoat 5% smoke does a pretty decent job at keeping the natural color. I have tried combating the pink hue with green in the past but found better success with a very diluted white or 5% smoke color.
That’s very interesting because that flooring is smoked. Now I’m gonna look that up. Thanks!
@@RinkVideo did you have a chance to rest the Rubio smoke 5%. I’ll be building white oak cabinet doors soon and I’m searching for a light finish also. Cheers from Chicago.
Unseparated, I kind of like the red tones. But I see where you're coming from. You need a colorimeter to do it right. I wonder if they have those for stained wood. I have one for paint. Well, wait a minute. just white balance and run it through your post processor and measure the RGB or HSL. But no fair keeping it to yourself. Let me know!
telling me you didnt care if we subscribed is such a powermove gotta like the vid
Lolololol reverse psychology! Thanks Nate ✌️
sick house, love the kitchen
Wondering if a green lacquer toner over the existing might have saved the sanding. Also figuring you don't want to hear that now but I pulled some evil orange out of a redwood piece with a bit of blue toner. Glad you got it handled.
stain under the finish is always going to handle better than a toner finish coat as time goes on imo
if you want white oak to natural. Basic coatings is company. get Raw seal and pure matte finish. Un believable. Crazy.
Hi what brand and color is the stain you used to get the red color out of the oak?
Staining oak is like painting walnut
Rink, where do I get these railings from? My stairs need an update and yours look beautiful.
Mine was built in 2010 and for some reason has the same god damn balusters as every other house that's been built since 1982. Why.
Glad you were able to salvage your situation man. I don't know what I woulda done.
Did you watch my other vid where I just spiced up the stairs in my old house? It was pretty easy and not that much work. DIY stair railing makeover. Modernizing stairs.
th-cam.com/video/4LxSIxMU-jc/w-d-xo.html
The shots of Joey staring at the railings sent me lolol. I felt that on a spiritual level.
Thank you 👍🏻🤩
U gotta white wash it! It adds the white to the grain! Any white paint then add green! It’ll be perfect
great tips!
what stain did you use?
love this, great video!
Thanks Sarah!
Your house looks great, how can I get my white oak to look like that? Everything I test makes my white oak turn too dark, like a pecan color.
Perhaps a stain with the opposite color of the pecan? More green!
For white oak to stay light in color, take a look at Osmo PolyX RAW/Natural (I think it's #3051) or Rubio Monocoat Natural (Oil + 2C I think is the way they label it). Oils tend to make lighter wood look more amber but both of these contain white and/or yellow pigment that offset the amber effect. Stay away from Osmo Clear and Rubio Pure. Both are great on Walnut, but as they contain no pigment, your white oak will dramatically amber. Ask me how I know :-)
Mistakes are how we become good at shit!! Great video! Staining is a science.... every piece of wood can take stain differently!!
Are you able to tell me how you finished your white oak kitchen
Would love to know what green stain you used. I’m refinishing an antique oak table and even after stripping and sanding there’s too much red!
Came out incredible though
Sounds like I need to get some green stain for the kitchen drawer fronts where I have duplicated EXACTLY the same f*ckup. They're now RED & PINK, despite a few other brainstorm efforts, including bleach.
Thx for sharing!!
Well done
loved it. thanks
I appreciate the love!
I'm getting ready to do a major project, stain and varnish and i'm wondering what i could use to stay as close to the original white oak color as possible/ Something that preferably not darken the grain too much.
First you need to use a sealer finish that gets into the pores of the wood, It will fill those pores and keep your following finish from penetrating so deep. Since you want it to stay as white as possible, understand that white oak is not actually as white as it looks, so make sure your choice of finish is as clear as it can be. There are some clear varnishes that do not have any color in them, but because the wood does, there is not going to be a solution that will keep the color from getting darker. Adding green toner works best to preserve the whitish color, but it won't stop the wood from looking at least two or three shades darker than it does unfinished, even with the clearest solution of whatever finish you use. A good way to test what the wood color will be when it is finished is to use a damp rag to wet an area of the wood very lightly. The wet color will be close to what it will be when finished.
Good tips!
So now I’m baby crapping in my pants. I just brought $300 of white oak and you’re telling me GREEN. Good thing I haven’t even broke down the wood yet. I’m going into the testing lab now. I’m going to subscribe anyway.Is that weird?
That’s awesome!! Let the baby poo flow!
What stain color did you choose?
what is the stain mix that you used?
Very helpful video! What is the name of your engineering flooring and where did you get it from?
Gotta say - your floors are great. Mind sharing what wood and stain you used on them?
KG, that’s engineered hardwood from China. It’s from the Wildwood Nature Collection called Euro White Oak, KURANG. Hope that helps. It’s bulletproof and I’m really happy with it. ✌️
@RinkVideo are your floors COREtec Cairo Oak LVP? Great video, I am going with fine finish supply Renner product. They have some great videos out about staining white oak.
Hey Will no they are not. I forget the exact name but I'll find it if you need it. I got the floor from Magna Hardwwood Floors International Inc. Relatively inexpensive and absolutely bulletproof if you have pets or kids. Comes from China and the best part is that they run the wood through a big smoker and that gives each piece somewhat of a unique look. I love it. I should have done a full video about that floor.
@@RinkVideo thanks! No worries about getting anymore info.
Stainers emotional support group! I need to join!
😂 Membership is time consuming and expensive. 😂 Staining mistakes can be forgiven but never forgotten. Welcome aboard.
..."I'm not even going to ask you to subscribe to my channel..." love it. Fixing fuck ups has become my life's work. They are usually MY fuck ups but that's neither here nor there. "This is bullshit" will be written on my gravestone. Great video. Your floors are awesome.
I hired a company to make all the wood in living room. Every time i asked no red or orange in the color, they did like 20 sample and they cant get it done. It maksme crazy
Oh Nedaz you have my vote for the Vice President of the Wood Stainers Emotional Support Group! I feel your pain.
To the painter that sprayed. Use your head .. if it doesnt look right stop ! I sure hope thst you didnt take payment and re paid all the mad hours it took to get it back to square one .
You don’t even want to know the full story. There was a major fallout. Tempers got hot and another painter finished the job. Cost me a good chunk of change and a hard lesson learned.
Can you please divulge the stain or stain mix you used for that light color you achieved while still neutralizing the reds, orange and ambers? Thanks!
I lent that can of stain to a friend but will try and get him to send me a picture of the code today.
Thanks so much!
@@RinkVideo I would also love to know the exact stain you used.
@@themangarage2203 sorry guys. My buddy still has my can of stain. I will harass him tomorrow to get it back so I can send you the exact deets
I am doing a new build and deciding on hand rail stain. They want this before the floors are installed. I want the hand rail to match the floor. What can I use? Assume I know nothing :).
Really like the way yours turned out. I really like a natural look but have 4 kids and need durability.
Is the floor engineered wood? im trying to figure out what i want in my house and love the look.
It is and it’s fricking amazing. Comes from China and they smoke it in a kiln so gives a little variety. It’s bulletproof, feels great on the feet and looks amazing. Was relatively inexpensive as well. Got it from a flooring supplier in Calgary.
@@RinkVideo what’s your thoughts on real white oak floors?
@@mcclainsgarage3917 depends if there’s children involved 😂. I’m type A and tend to run a tight ship but the engineered flooring is good for hockey, scooters, weird science experiments and all the other things kids get up to. I actually obsess about subfloors more than I do with the flooring 😂
i always wonder why they sell weird color stain, this is why
What’s the stain on your wood floor? Did you buy them finished?
Yes the floor came finished
Has the product and color used been listed, I can't seem to find it.
What is the name and color of the stain you used? thanks!
What wood is your kitchen cabinets ? I like it . Thank you
Thank you. I’ll find the sample so I can tell you exactly! Stand by.
What shirt are you wearing? I’d like to buy one.
I wore that shirt to a concert the other night and a random dude stopped me to say how awesome it is. That is my favourite piece of clothing that own and it’s from Howler Brothers out of Austin. I absolutely love it.
I install white oak floors every other week and none have red or pink
Yea I agree something fishy. Maybe it was an weird Oak or maybe it was red oak sun bleached a bit and sold as white
What do you use for baseboards and trim?
Just two pieces of mdf. Very minimal. I’m not a fan of anything too ornate. You can easily see here in one of my other vids: Stained Concrete Floor (1 year later)
th-cam.com/video/HcqGyrDAe9Y/w-d-xo.html
Hello . What color are your cabinets? Thank you
What kind of Baulsters did you use solid iron ? Link?
Something like this: www.greatstairs.com/products/spindles/metal-spindle-straight-bar/
What’s the color stain of green?
whered you get that hat?
Howler Bros out of Austin. I frickin love that stuff.
Can you share the stain you used?
My friend borrowed the stain and never returned it so I can’t remember exactly. I’ll call him today.
@@Year_2027 you’re 100% right on this.
How come you talk with your hands so much ? 😅😅
Colour theory strikes again.
A word of wisdom: don’t hire anyone. Period. Do it all yourself. Occasionally, yes, tradesmen do the job correctly. Occasionally. These days.
I subscribe to your theory fogsmart! Especially if you’re not in a hurry.
😂😂😂😂
Let me tell you why I've been so successful in my woodworking career. Research everything you want to do before you try to do it. That means materials, tools, designing, methods, procedures, and finishing. I never tackled anything that was new to me before doing my research, even after I knew a lot about woodworking already. New things are always coming up in my career, and knowing what I have to do before doing it is a very important step. Because of that, I seek out all I can find that is relevant to what I wish to do, and study it. Because I do that, I am successful 95% of the time or better. In the case of your stair bannisters, you should never install them before the surrounding area has been given its finish, and the same goes for cabinetry, window and door frames, etc. Look at your project and figure out what is supposed to be completed when! This is especially true when you are working with others to get a project done. No one likes having to do something over, or to have to fix something that got done too soon. So look at the job ahead, and ask yourself "How far along does the other parts of the job need to be, before I can safely get this part done?" In the case in which other workers are working on areas near what you are going to do, if their work will have an effect on what you must do, if you do your work first, let them get done before you do your work. Yes there may be times when your work might do something bad to their work, so find a way to do your work that has the least impact on what is already done. Also have ways to protect the work of other workers from being affected by your work. In the case of finishes, use shields wherever they are needed.
I could tell you literally thousands of things about how to be successful in this type of work, but then I would be writing a whole series of books or more. So my advice is seek out the knowledge you need and study it. Knowing will save you lots of trouble.