If you don’t have a battery just take a T30, it’s two bolts on the actual motor, remove those. Slowly pull the motor off. With the motor removed, take a T45, there’s a hole where the motor attaches to the caliper loosen that with the T45 and then you should be able to use your brake press to push the piston in. Once you have enough room to install it over your new brake pads, you can then tighten the piston on the brakes and then position the motor back on. I didn’t have a battery so I had to try a different way, I hope this helps.
Thanks for this video. Simple and to the point. I just tackled this task. Once I understood that the parking brake wouldn’t completely retract, I then got it. Basically cycle the parking brake for a few; in my case the piston would spin and almost rip the boot when fully extended. When the parking brake was funny retracted the piston kept spinning. Then I was able to push it all the way back. The second side took me 10 minutes. About a 45 minute job in total. Thanks again.
Simplest, clearest video on a rear brake pad replacement that I have seen. I am actually doing a 2011 Audi Q5. Looks similar if not the same as the 2011 based on other videos I have watched. Looking forward to doing a brake job two evenings from now with my son. Thank you for creating such a high-quality, clear, and detailed video. Had already bought an OBD2 scanner for the electronic parking brake. I expect the pad replacement will go well!
This is an awesome video in many different ways! Well lit, great camera angle. I was actually doing the brakes (well, actually my son did most of the work) on an Audi 2011 Q5. I had already bought a Zurich ZR15s OBD2 from Harbor Freight which performed the opening/closing/testing of the brakes. This video is extremely clear, concise, and well narrated. The best video on rear brakes for an Audi that is on TH-cam in my opinion! Our brake pad replacement went extremely well! Thank you Dan the Fix It Man!
You can simply use a car battery. You only need a long cable. And second advice: negative wire connect to motor connector side with little corner, pozitive to other place without corner😊
Great video. Couple questions. 1 can you do a follow up video on and where the jack points are to lift the vehicle safely. And number 2, is the electric brake on one side only?
Any tips for the calliper bolts being completley seized up? I cant replace either the pads or rotors without getting those off. infact the top one came off but looks like the bolt snapped
Great question, the parking brake was not applied while doing this video. The electronic parking brake still needs to be pushed farther back in to make room for the new thicker brake pads. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Appreciate you getting back to me. Totally makes sense. Thank you. Also, your videos are perfect. No music. No BS. No begging for likes or subscriptions. Just to the point. Thanks again.
Do you have to do the e-brake trick even if you don't engage it when you park? My 2013 doesn't auto-engage the e-brake, so I want to know if I can skip that step.
You will still need to retract it or put it in service mode to be able to have enough room for the new brake pads. Just leaving the parking brake off doesn't allow you to push the caliper piston back in. Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Hi Dan! I just wanted to update you. I successfully replaced all brake pads. I used a 9V battery and two wires to activate the e-brake and held it until I heard it stop. I then used a c-clamp to fully depress the piston, allowing me to get the caliper back over the new brake pads. This video was paramount in my success, so thank you once again! Cheers, good sir! I also wanted to inform others, as I saw multiple questions about pumping the brakes afterwards. I simply activated the e-brake once I had brought the vehicle back down. It took a little longer than usually for it to fully lock, but then everything was back to normal.
@@thomasfarrish8053 Glad to hear you got it done! And yes, I probably didn't mention that in the video, but the parking brake will automatically adjust as soon as you apply it the first time. Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man
Hi David, I replace pads only all the time. Sure, it’s better to replace the rotors, but if they’re still in good condition, they can be reused. It would be better to have them resurfaced or machined. Most auto parts stores will do this for $15 each. Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
A question on the direction the caliper piston spins when the 12V current is applied in your video. Is it counter clockwise or clockwise? I am working on the rear 2016 SQ5 brakes and am not sure which direction it should be going to increase the space for the pads. The thought is counter but don't want to make the big mistake and have the piston in my hand or on the floor. Thanks
If you don’t have a battery just take a T30, it’s two bolts on the actual motor, remove those. Slowly pull the motor off. With the motor removed, take a T45, there’s a hole where the motor attaches to the caliper loosen that with the T45 and then you should be able to use your brake press to push the piston in. Once you have enough room to install it over your new brake pads, you can then tighten the piston on the brakes and then position the motor back on. I didn’t have a battery so I had to try a different way, I hope this helps.
This worked like a charm. Trial and error for direction. This process works same for SQ5
Thanks for this video. Simple and to the point. I just tackled this task. Once I understood that the parking brake wouldn’t completely retract, I then got it. Basically cycle the parking brake for a few; in my case the piston would spin and almost rip the boot when fully extended. When the parking brake was funny retracted the piston kept spinning. Then I was able to push it all the way back. The second side took me 10 minutes. About a 45 minute job in total. Thanks again.
Simplest, clearest video on a rear brake pad replacement that I have seen. I am actually doing a 2011 Audi Q5. Looks similar if not the same as the 2011 based on other videos I have watched. Looking forward to doing a brake job two evenings from now with my son. Thank you for creating such a high-quality, clear, and detailed video. Had already bought an OBD2 scanner for the electronic parking brake. I expect the pad replacement will go well!
This is an awesome video in many different ways! Well lit, great camera angle. I was actually doing the brakes (well, actually my son did most of the work) on an Audi 2011 Q5. I had already bought a Zurich ZR15s OBD2 from Harbor Freight which performed the opening/closing/testing of the brakes. This video is extremely clear, concise, and well narrated. The best video on rear brakes for an Audi that is on TH-cam in my opinion! Our brake pad replacement went extremely well! Thank you Dan the Fix It Man!
@@aaronrichards3837 thank you so much! Glad to hear that it went well!
Take care,
-Dan
Awesome video, super helpful. Also a 9v battery works for anyone that doesn't have access to a spare car battery.
Love the electronic brake trick. Awesome!
Great help thanks, the 12volt supply to the brake motor worked a treat.
You can simply use a car battery. You only need a long cable. And second advice: negative wire connect to motor connector side with little corner, pozitive to other place without corner😊
Absolutely a life saver . Thanks brother 👍🏼
Thanks video helped tremendously glad there is a way without the scanner
No problem, happy to hear it was helpful!
Take care,
Dan
Great video. Couple questions. 1 can you do a follow up video on and where the jack points are to lift the vehicle safely. And number 2, is the electric brake on one side only?
Any tips for the calliper bolts being completley seized up? I cant replace either the pads or rotors without getting those off. infact the top one came off but looks like the bolt snapped
Thank you very much for the video. Truly appreciate it. One question, why can’t you just not set the E break before you start the brake job?
Great question, the parking brake was not applied while doing this video. The electronic parking brake still needs to be pushed farther back in to make room for the new thicker brake pads.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan
Appreciate you getting back to me. Totally makes sense. Thank you.
Also, your videos are perfect. No music. No BS. No begging for likes or subscriptions. Just to the point.
Thanks again.
Dan, is there anything that comes upas far as alarms with cycling that parking brake motor that then needs to be reset at the OBD?
great videos!
Do you have to do the e-brake trick even if you don't engage it when you park? My 2013 doesn't auto-engage the e-brake, so I want to know if I can skip that step.
You will still need to retract it or put it in service mode to be able to have enough room for the new brake pads. Just leaving the parking brake off doesn't allow you to push the caliper piston back in. Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Hi Dan! I just wanted to update you. I successfully replaced all brake pads. I used a 9V battery and two wires to activate the e-brake and held it until I heard it stop. I then used a c-clamp to fully depress the piston, allowing me to get the caliper back over the new brake pads. This video was paramount in my success, so thank you once again! Cheers, good sir!
I also wanted to inform others, as I saw multiple questions about pumping the brakes afterwards. I simply activated the e-brake once I had brought the vehicle back down. It took a little longer than usually for it to fully lock, but then everything was back to normal.
@@thomasfarrish8053 Glad to hear you got it done! And yes, I probably didn't mention that in the video, but the parking brake will automatically adjust as soon as you apply it the first time.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
@thomasfarrish8053 Hey! What type of 9V battery did you use? How many amps? Thank you
Do you need to replace the brake pad sensor?
Could you use a battery jump starter instead of a 12v battery?
Did the jump starter work? I imagine it did 12v is 12v
I was told by the dealer that you had to replace both rotor and the pads? Could not do pads only?
Hi David,
I replace pads only all the time.
Sure, it’s better to replace the rotors, but if they’re still in good condition, they can be reused. It would be better to have them resurfaced or machined. Most auto parts stores will do this for $15 each.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Do you have a OE code for brake pads clips? 6:50 Thank you.
No codes or anything from doing that to the brakes ?
No, as long as you don’t turn on the car when it’s disconnected.
A question on the direction the caliper piston spins when the 12V current is applied in your video. Is it counter clockwise or clockwise? I am working on the rear 2016 SQ5 brakes and am not sure which direction it should be going to increase the space for the pads. The thought is counter but don't want to make the big mistake and have the piston in my hand or on the floor. Thanks
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