How to make a set of high quality jumper cables
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2017
- This video is about how I built a set of jumper cables. This video is for entertainment purposes only. Any attempt to reproduce the subject covered in this video is done so at the risk of the consumer. Please comment and subscribe. Thanks for watching!
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Retired Power Lineman here and we used to make High Voltage cables. ONe thing we did different was tin (solder) the wire before installing the connector. Flux your connector then squeeze it over your soldered wire. Of Course we had a pot full of melted solder so we could just dip our cable into, but this way you don't need to heat the shielding on the wire as much and you get more solder up parteher in the wire under the shielding. That help with the connector clamping onto something more solid. And once yu squeeze the connector on then it's a simple matter of just heating up the solder enough to bond woth the connector. Again not baking the insulation shielding. In high voltage underground cables not stressing or baking the insulation is paramount to having a good long lasting connection that won't fail for years in the harshest conditions. Hope that helps!
Excellent information! I’ve seen that done with the pot of liquid solder before and seems like that is the best method. When I did this project I did have to heat up the copper enough that it made the insulation soft. Thank you for your professional assessment and advise. Also thanks for watching and taking the time to leave such detailed information.
I would tell my dad that I was borrowing something, he knew that he would never see them again. I still have a lot of the stuff I borrowed and treasure them because he once held and used them. Very good video.
I’m sentimental like that too. I appreciate many things in that way. There are may things we have that we really don’t own, we are just caretakers while we are here. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.
I made a set of jumper cables like this and they are far superior to anything you can buy at a store for under $50. The shrink tube was a nice touch, I may go back and do that to mine! Nice work man!!
Thanks for commenting. sorry it took me so long to respond. For some reason , youtube never showed me your comment. I appreciate you watching my videos!
Thanks my friend for that information about the jumper cables.
👍🙏🇺🇸
You’re welcome. Good luck with your project!
You were right to put the leg of the spring over the cable. I've never made my own jumper cables but i have fixed up old ones by replacing damaged clamps and i did it the way you did there for extra retention. Great job and easy to follow instructions in your video!
+Coty thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for commenting too!
This is great! Thank you so much for the video. I want to make a set of these this summer for both my car and my truck. My dad loaned me a set he made back in the 1970's, not as well done as these and they were rather short, but the wire gauge was very large and allowed my little Honda Accord to jump start anyone! I'd like to make my own though.
PotatoGunsRule that's awesome. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Excellent job Greg,
Your delightful personality coupled with easy to follow instructions and superb closeup photography make for a very good tutorial. Thank you .
Thank you for the nice compliments. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I will be doing an update video soon as I have corrected some things and added some new features to my jumper cable setup. Thanks for watching, Greg
You could make a Mexican set. A Mexican jumper cable is two old rusty cars in Tijuana. Touch the bumpers, take the bumper jack, touch said jack to both positive terminals, and LOOK OUT! (Sparks, flame, shorted doors and windows, death, mayhem, and madness. Bumper jack gets HOT!) But, will work in a pinch, and even though McGyver would never try this, it will work, ONCE!
That made me laugh! It will work,ONCE!
I beat you to it, I made my jumper cables back in 1980 using over 40 ft of # 6 welding cable. Crimping and soldering is the best way to do it, good job.
+Old Man I bet you still have those cables too ! Thanks for watching!
Thank You very much I search and search and I found you knowledge and it’s proper use wins battles you Won🖐
That is cool my friend
what is the Gage you use to do your new Cable Jumper.
Please let me know.
👍🙏🇺🇸
I’d use 2 or 4 gauge welding cables. Either order them on eBay or you can find them by the foot at a welding shop.
Yeah really good and don’t often comment on social media but enjoy it when genuine people try to help others by showing them skills like this. The only thing I might say is maybe consider using a solder that doesn’t require flux (I’m a plumber) because if any of that flux is left on the copper it will corrode within days just like on water / gas pipes etc - that said, it did look like it went all the way down.
Really good though. Well done 👍
Thank you for watching and I appreciate you sharing your expertise. One thing I didn’t show in the video was I purchased the nylon sleeve used to protect hydraulic hoses on heavy equipment. I slid both cables in the sleeve. That keeps them protected and keeps the cables together. thanks again!
Nicely done, however soldering in this particular situation is not the best of ideas. It basically adds another metal between two pieces of copper, which, under this kind of loads, shrinks and contracts differently than the surrounding metals. This may in time lead to cracks and lower overall conductivity. Granted, it may never be even noticeable, when the cable is used sporadically, but the theory is there. Here it is more a question of longevity than safety.
Otherwise: a very nice tutorial :}
All good information! Thanks for watching the video and lending your expertise.
@@GregsShop The pleasure is all mine :)
Great Job Mr. Greg. Thumbs up. I am going to make my own jumper cables. Thank you for nice & clear instructions. subscribed . :-D
Thank you for watching and commenting. Let us know how your cables turned out! - Greg
Hair dryer does the heat shrink better 👍
Just finished Mine.
Yes sir. I have a heat gun. Don’t know why I didn’t use it for this one. My wife would kill me if I took her hair dryer for this. I already stole her iron for edge banding. Lol. Thanks for leaving a comment and watching the video.
THANKS GREAT VIDEO.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Greg Barnes, not sure what happened to your comment but it’s not there anymore. Check this out. Any questions, you can send me an email at gregsshopfl@gmail.com
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Gauge-AWG-Welding-Lead-Car-Battery-Cable-Copper-Wire-MADE-IN-USA-SOLAR-/302192855674?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Hey thanks for making this video. Really helpful. What is the make and model of the gas lighter you are using for welding the soldering cable on there?
I just picked up the mini torch from Harbor Freight. It runs on butane and is refillable. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html?_br_psugg_q=butane+torch
thanks for sharing just made mine =)
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Nice job Greg. I'm really liking your videos! You do some really nice work!
swolff5 Thanks Steve. this was a fun project. Thanks for watching!
Hey Greg, that's a great set of cables, good idea of soldering the cable and copper connector together for a stronger connection. Where did you buy the cable at.
+rvkubotaman I found the cable on eBay. 2 gauge welding cable for 26 bucks
May have to get some, could use it to lengthen my ground cable on a few of my welders.
If you have a welding supply shop near you, you can probably buy it there. That is what I am going to do this summer. The bigger the copper wire (smaller the gauge) the less resistance to the flow of electrons (current) you will get.
Jumper cables you buy aren't even copper anymore! They are aluminum and just do not allow a very easy jump start.
PotatoGunsRule you are exactly right. I bought the wire off eBay because I got a better price on the welding cable there. The welding shops by my house are a ripoff. I used 2 gauge cable for these. Any bigger and I would have had to use bigger crimp connections and those would not have fit on the clamps I had. I have a hydraulic crimper for the large fittings but would have soldered them too. Thanks for watching and commenting.! Get with me if you need anymore info on the cables or clamps and be sure to check out the other videos on my channel.
Me watches the whole video then processed to Amazon and buys 1 gauge 25ft energizer cables.
Super Job Mr. Greg greatings from Neum,BiH
Bosnia? Wow, TH-cam sure makes this world smaller. Thanks for watching and nice to meet you.
Greetings from Požega, Croatia also very nice and helpful video I'm about to do my cables 😁
Awesome, thanks for watching. Good luck building your cables. Make them longer than you think you will need them to be!
List of materials, type of solder, etc. would be helpful. Those cable clamps look cheap, which is a shame since the cables themselves are of nice quality.
Also, NEVER pour water (shock) a weld/solder joint. Let it cool off on its own.
Lastly, that heat shrink is way, way too large for that fitting and the adhesive is used more for keeping the tube in place while shrinking and offer some water rejection than suggested tensile protection.
Thanks for watching. The cable clamps are of good quality but I don’t like the sheet metal screw used to bond the cable to the clamp. I have since replaced them with a nut and bolt
I was thinking even though you might never need or use one plenty of other people you come across might benefit though, key trick is having one thats a reasonable length for starters, then the quality of gauge and clamps, best to leave connected a couple of minutes before starting though and switch off internal electrics and air con.
I usually carry the cables so I can help others. I make it a point to know what state my battery is in just like I monitor how much fuel is in the tank. You are exactly right.
Nice cables Greg I may just have you make me a set....umm I meant make a set to keep in the patrol car with all the jumps we do. Cool project!
You need to take some sandpaper and rough up all of the metal on the Clamp connector and the cable in order for the Solder to adhere to the Clamp and cable good, also ....I've been brazing for over 20 yrs and every piece of metal that contacts each other has to be cleaned by sandpaper or the Solder will break loose sometimes even if using flux, everything has to be sanded and cleaned
Hi Greg, good video. Great job 👍
Thank you!
@@GregsShop 👍
where you get the wire.
Brian Danaher eBay
You actually do not want to use Plumbing Solder Flux. It corrodes electrical connections.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I appreciate the feedback.
Smaller shrink wrap put on the wire before the terminal makes life easier. :)
+hotshtsr20 very true. Thanks for watching!
I would suggest 2 things:
1) DO NOT USE plumber (acidic) flux. Go for the flux for electric components.
2) DO NOT use burner. Use either heat gun or powerful soldering iron. That way you won't burn flux and oxidize your wire/solder, making a better mechanical and electrical connection which will last ages.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. All good advice!
"They were probably made in USA that's how old they are " loooooooool
Tip: don't crimp the insulation/strain relief crimp until AFTER you solder and it's cooled down. Otherwise, this was a great video!
+rebelcat420 thanks for watching!
Plumbing paste flux on an electrical connection is the absolute worst thing you could do. Quality electrical solder has all the flux you need built right in. Paste flux is designed for much higher temperatures used in soldering copper tube and you never melt all the flux before you melt the insulation. Just don't use it.
Hey David, thanks for your comment and watching the video. I realize it contains some bad information regarding the flux and I’m sorry about that. I have since purchased a hydraulic hex crimper and fixed the cables with new ring connectors. They work much better than the ones that came with the clamps. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I appreciate the constructive feedback.
Where did you get the clamps?
eBay
@@GregsShop Do you have the link to the ones you bought?
Let me see if I can find it or an equivalent
This is a similar product from eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pair-Battery-Booster-Cable-Parrot-Clamps-Heavy-Duty-1100AMP-Jumper-Replacement/173737787804?hash=item287394419c:g:TaMAAOSwLKhcOqhv
What is behind you over your left shoulder looks like pry bars
In the beginning of the video, those would be clamps hanging on a rack
I know this video is fairly old. but I figured I'd try to contact you anyway. I have a set of jumper cables that are very old that my father had gave me kind of sentimental but the actual jacket on the cables I have started cracking and falling off my instinct is to remove the jacket completely separate the wires and try to repair them they are super heavy duty 20 ft long either one or two gauge pure copper but for the life of me I could not figure out what is the best thing to use. since they could be having up to 800 plus amperage running through it I was wanting to ask a few people's opinions as far as some type of insulation and shrink tubing possibly or insulation and plastic dip spray many light coatings and then shrink tubing. I don't want to make them too heavy but I certainly want to make them safe. your thoughts on this? and I understand completely anything that you should just an idea and if I shock my dumbass self it will be on me and me alone. thanks
I totally understand the sentimental value of things. I’m not sure it would be worth the time to salvage the copper back to working conditions. The only idea I would recommend would be heat shrink tubing from one continuous roll. It will be very difficult to get the tubing on to the wire since the diameter will have to be fairly close to the size of the wire. Then when shrinking down, it sections will shrink at different rates causing un natural curves to the wire. It may have the same insulative value but most likely won’t have the same abrasion resistance. The cables will be hard to wind up and store as well. Plastidip spray probably will not bond with the existing cable sheath. I hate to say it but you probably would be better off leaving them that way and not using them. Buy or build a working set so things are safe. Best of luck to you and keep me posted on what you come up with.
You can remove the first 6-12 inches of insulation from the ends and see if you get quality (shiney) copper down the length of the cable. If the copper looks like it is in good enough condition to use as jumpers, you can then strip of all remaining insulation from the wires. As far as new sheathing, you can choose from a wide variety of electrical grade sheathing that's properly rated for your application, (800 cca). Heat shrink tubing usually comes in a 2:1 shrink ratio, but 3:1 and 4:1 and even higher are common. The higher the shrink ratio, the more expensive. You do not need marine grade with adhesive or anything like that, and the other main concern is the heat shrink abrasion resistance and wall thickness. You'd want some with high abrasion resistance as it will be dragged across pavement, bumpers, gravel, etc. Choose a diameter that is within one diameter or less of the gauge that your cables are, the less the sheathing has to shrink the more durable. The trick to get the wire inserted into the heat shrink is to lay the entire length on a long table, preferably, and use an air hose at about 35psi or so to "inflate" the heat shrink as you feed the cabling into it. Using talc sparingly as a "lubricant" will allow very minimal resistance when applied to the inner sheathing. (good reason for not using glue-lined heat shrink) when trying to feed the cable. And super highly recommend a heat gun with curved shroud tip to heat shrink the tubing a few inches at a time working from one end to the other gradually. I used to fabricate military-grade MILSPEC power cables for the US Army's Patriot Missile System Weapons Battery at Letterkenny Army Depot in Pennsylvania. This cable was 6 inches in diameter and over 35 feet long and weighed nearly a ton. It took me 3-4 days to fabricate a single cable and each cable cost the Army $125K. I also fabricated Force Provider cabling and MRAP (mine resistant ambush protected) cables and harnesses. Before I took that job over a decade ago, I always thought machines made cables and harnesses, but a vast majority of them are hand fabricated. Go figure! Now I always find myself "inspecting" any cables that I purchase! Funny, but its a curse!!
Thank you for your excellent reply and sharing your expertise.
What size of the cable?
2 gauge
Here's an idea for next time. Use a hose clamp to crimp down those terminals to the cable and then remove the clamp.
Direct current on cable
Whats the size or gauge of your cable sir
2 gauge
May I ask where you bought the cable from?
I ordered it from an eBay seller. This link is similar to what I purchased. You can also search for welding cable online. If you have a welding shop that sells cabling that may be something to check on. The reason for the welding cable is it has low resistance, highly abrasion resistant jacket and very flexible. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261080572842
Use soldier gun is good idea
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Send me a link of purchase.
I’m not sure what you are asking for. Would you like a link of where I purchased the components for the cables or to purchase a set of complete cables? You can email me direct at gregsshopfl@gmail.com
Could one take jumper cables and convert them into battery cables? 🤔
Sure but it’s probably cheaper to just buy shorter lengths of thicker higher quality cable.
@@GregsShop lol for sure. I just have corrosion all over my cables and a spare set of jumpers. Covid has birthed some strange motivation lol. Thank you!
Look around on eBay or even if you have a local welding supply shop. You can get the cabling you need usually by the foot. The cables I used in my video were purchased through eBay and they were great quality. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
That heat shrink is WAY TO BIG
Why not 0 gauge?
I simply did not need anything bigger than what I used. The cables are only 15 feet long. Anything with a bigger diameter would not have fit in the clamps or on the supplied crimp connectors. I also did not want them to be too heavy. I wanted to keep the cost down. As it is, they are twice the the thickness of any walmart or auto parts store cables. I have been using them for a while now and they work well. The only thing I would change is the clamps. I'd look for better clamps that can be used on a wider range of terminal orientations. Thanks for watching and your comment!
Yeah I would use a welding type clamp. I know exactly what you mean. I was just trying to keep the cost down. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Suggestion: buy a proper set of CRIMP PLIERS and a HEAT GUN.
Thanks for your suggestions
Interesting video, but WOW that was painful to watch!
What was it that was painful, specifically?
Great way to damage a new cables insulation too by the way. Grabbing it with teeth of clamp. What the hell
It's fine, most don't get used often and even when they do a small damage like that is going to be just fine.
Shut up.
Lost me at acid flux........
Thanks for watching
So many mistakes in this video...
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Slowest video on youtube
Thanks for your comment
You are the mentally slowest human on TH-cam.
you Should have hammered down those connections. And NEVER use solder as a "More secure" Connection. It is the opposite. It is a LESS secure connection. These cables can get very hot very quick and that solder job over time will deteriorate. I will cause problems from not making a good connection taking longer to jump or coming right out at the worst possible time. You will NEVER see ACTUAL professionals doing this. It is a liability. You should stop show this to people or at very least tell them it's for entertainment proposes only.
OH and DC current travels on the outside of each individual strand, that one of the reasons there are so many it gives the current an easier and more surface for it to travel. You filling solder in-between those strands is counter productive.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.