How to make Heavy Duty Jumper Leads /Jumper Cables - DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- DIY Heavy Duty Jumper Leads that will last!
Parts I used:-
6 mtrs of 25 square mm welding cable
4 - welding earth claps
4 - 10mm x 35mm lug terminals
1 mtr 20mm heat shrink red
1 mtr 20mm heat shrink black
1 mtr 16 mm heat shrink black
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I'm no off-roader, I'm a street racer, but I love this video. I'm definitely going to make these.
You should! I've used these heaps now.
For the handles, you could get some of that flexible, clear PVC hose and stretch a section over the top of the heatshrink for a nicer hand operation feel and also to protect the heatshrink from nicks and cuts etc. Also, given the high quality of everything involved in making these cables, I reckon it'd be worthwhile to go the extra mile and crimp those lugs on. Big solder joints can be hard to get right especially for the uninitiated and a dry solder joint in something carrying so much current could be dangerous. You can get a simple hammer and punch style crimper pretty cheap.
I've made these myself but with 3 minor modifications.
I've got an anti zap protector to avoid reverse polarity accidents. This lets my less mechanical minded friends use them without the risk of them blowing up their batteries. Just a extra paranoid precaution.
I've got fully insulated clamps. I prefer the welding clamps Like matt has demonstrated, but again I'm not the only one using them and it's all about idiot proofing them.
Last difference is I have a in line Anderson Plug and socket to mate with my ute. I have outlets on my bullbar and towbar to allow for jump starting at either end. Dual pole isolator at both ends. Just unplug one end of the leads and plug into the ute, that way you still have one pair of clamps to go onto whatever you are jumping
I love the channel mate keep up the good work 🙂
You make some great suggestions there. Thanks for the encouragment.
Great video mate thank you!
Pleasure
They are top quality jumper leads,where abouts do you store them at night Matt.
I can't tell you where I store them. :)
@@MadMatt4WD lol
they are welding clamps
If you used jumper cables to fish with you would catch one with every cast
yea you know what I am talking about!!!
Nice one
I was wondering what to do with my old welding leads. Thanks for the tip. Keep up the good work
Thanks Matt
Pleasure
Perfect job,👌
Thanks
Really like the video, using welding cables is a great idea.
Just a note, you should probably double-check the polarity of the leads with a multimeter.
I know you just followed the cable with your hands, but a multimeter is a good way to double-check your finger didn't slip when doing this test.
That’s a good suggestion. I’ve been using these for ages now and they’re fantastic
@@MadMatt4WD I am ordering the supplies needed to make my one now
Ok then some improvements to this design. Sleeve the full cable length with heat shrink. And shop around for different clamps. Sometimes these can be a little difficult to make clamp onto a terminal.
@@MadMatt4WD Why would you recommend to sleeve the full length of the cable?
Under your first heatshrink at each end, put a zip tie around both cables and melt the shrink over it that way the shrink wont rip👍
That’s a cool idea. Thanks
Nice work
Thanks
Great vid! The jumper leads you can purchase from auto supermarkets look thick but are all insulation! That'll last for years! The only difference with mine is down one end I've put a 125amp Anderson plug (I know there will be slight losses...) but now I can unplug one end and plug in my 24v arc welding setup!
Do you usually connect to the negative terminal on the car being jumped? I was under the impression it was better to connect to a large metal component on the engine, I use the lifting tab on the 1hz. Interested in your opinion as a mechanic on this.
Thanks Mate. I toyed with putting an Anderson plug in but don't think I have need of that at this time. I can always add it in later if I go on a remote trip where welding could be necessary. Of course I can hold the rod in these clamps if needed. Yes you should hook the earth to another point mainly if the battery is flat as I believe it can be producing Hydrogen gas which goes BANG.
Sweet !!! You forgot to mention how flexible the welding cable is. The coolest pair I’ve ever seen were 40’ long and plugged into his truck grill with a forklift battery plug. Didn’t even have to raise the hood.
Yeah you’re supposed to crimp, not solder. However, I like to crimp first, then solder, but to do the soldering right is more than most people want to mess with.
Torch the bare cable end just hot enough to quickly melt flux down through the copper strands. Scuff the inside of the connector, heat it, flux it. Put connector on cable and crimp properly. Now we’re ready for the dip pot. You’ll need to make a tiny crucible pot just big enough to dip the assembled cable end into. I made one from a big deep well socket with a 4” long cut off piece of socket extension welded into the bottom. Clamp the extension into the vise and torch enough solder into it to submerge the ends of the cable strands. The solder will flow up the strands. Heat the pot from the outside while melting the solder into it. When it’s deep enough, preheat the crimped cable end assembly, flux once more, then dip into solder. No better flow of amps than that. Might want to trim cable sheathing a bit farther back to avoid torch. Shrink tubing will cover it.
Oh, have you seen the shrink tubing with glue inside? If you’re a professional, you can’t make any money doing connections this way, but since I started doing it 40 years ago to my own vehicles, peace of mind and zero failures. 😎🤙 Yes, this is totally overkill and ridiculous to many of you, but I share it because some of you are just...like...me.............🥴
Cut your shrink tubing off that is joining the two leads and coil them separately.
I know that sounds goofy but they are so much easier to coil up and put away it’s crazy. Or maybe I am. Cheap enough to try it. Let us know what you think.
Thanks so much for all that feedback some really good points in there really appreciate it I certainly going to take on some of those points next time round when I’m not doing heavy soldering like this I’ll certainly use the cables a number of times probably 20 or 30 times now and they start the car so much better because I can get the Ambridge into the batteries you know it’s certainly been a great set of jumper leads maybe I need to make a second set
Tikity boom? Don’t know if I said or spelled it right but I’m using that phrase from now on at work. ❤ great video
Tikity boo. But yeah it’s a crakka phrase
@@MadMatt4WD last time my blue eyes reflected in the mirror I was a “crakka” also cousin Jim bob
I like the idea of heat shrink holding the two cables together. I made a set using 30mm welding leads over 30 years ago and still use them today. I used 15mm copper tube and slid it over the two cables and crimped it so it gripped which still works well but I like the heat shrink as well. Mine need refurbishing as they are getting warm where the cables are crimped into the sockets.
How good is that ay 😁
Good help
Happy to help
I got a 15' set free when a yard sale ended. Need to clean them up after years of use and sitting.
That's like 4.5 meters
Good score
I made similar cables just without the lugs and soldering. Bought welding clamps that you can compress the handle around the wire and some electric tape around. Not as strong as yours but it'll do the job.
Nice work
THANK YOU DETAIL VIDEO MAKE LEAD AS HARD FIND GOOD SET FOR 24V
Thanks
Nice job, didn't know you could get heat shrink that size, Cheers
I think you can get even bigger. Not from Jaycar though.
Industrial sizes you can fit your head in
@@MadMatt4WD Thanks, I have put off making a a new set of leads, this has inspired me. Cheers
I worked as a rigger on constructing an oil refinery back in the 80s. I use to scavenge all sizes of heat shrink the sparkies threw away after wiring up all the pumps, transformers etc. I still have a wooden handled 5 lb mash hammer with a piece shrunk onto it which is about 4mm thick. It's a bit bashed about but it has protected the wooden handle at the head from getting chipped whenever I missed a drift or bolt.
Hi, good video. U mentioned abt jump-starting diesel truck that requires 400A. Have u tried this with the cables? What is your advice since the welding cable has only rating of 200A (continous)? Also what is your advice on maximum length if we want to use for diesel trucks?
I’d use them to start at 400a. A jump start is not continuous. I’d certainly watch the heat though.
@@MadMatt4WD appreciate your reply
On a note you mentioned the exposed metal, you could pop off or tape the copper and use a rubber spray on or dip or an enamel paint and then put the copper back on or peel the tape.
That’s could work
Is that small amount of solder really going to hold it for years or under force of pulling. wont it melt during the jump start?
I don't believe so. So far I've used these to start numerous vehicles and they're working an absolute treat.
How about when your hooked up on anything and everything
I had this big friend to go get my jumper cables from under the seat of my pick up and he bought them to me alone with the bench seat
nice work bud but the only difference i would do is when putting the heat shrink on the lead ends is do one red and one black
Fair enough
thanks
You're welcome!
What soldier are you using, is it stuff that plumbers use.
Resin core.
Great video and you have inspired me to make my own now. However..... I would suggest that when heat-shrinking the two cables together that they be off set about the length of the clamps so they can't inadvertently touch if one end is still connected to a battery. Also, I'd put a second piece of coloured heat shrink on the clamp handles. You can heat shrink on heat shrink. You've paid for it so use it.
Now.... off to get the bits needed. Thanks
Yes I would do that if I made them again. I’d also heat shrink the whole length of cable. I’ve used them heaps now and they’re awesome.
Can this be used for jump starting the Light Mototor cars...??
Absolutely. i use mine to start all sorts of engines. these are working really really well.
Nice job, using local businesses 👍. Mmm tip, put a mark on both end of 1 lead first, easy for positive and negative later.
Can these have, or is it necessary to have the "anti spike" ?
Yeah I thought about the mark idea later. 😂. I’ve never bothered with anti spike ones.
Isn't a 1hz a purely mechanical injected diesel ? Anti spike is only for cars with sensitive ecus
@@tassie4x499 thought he had petrols ? And what if it's a sensitive ecu that needs the jump start ?
@@budget4wheeling641 yeah he has petrol ones, I forgot that mate.... if it's a newer rig with an ECU get the jumper leads with the built in surge protector box inline with the leads... I have a set and have never had an issue even with my modern 2010 turbo diesel bmw, and 2010 turbo diesel golf GTD ( or any imports, or petrol vehicles I've had) it's just cheap insurance that u won't fry your ECU if there's a short in one of the batteries etc
I just found your channel. Good video, thank you sir. Just my opinion, but to me, 10ft-ish (I live in the United States) seems a little short. Seriously thinking of starting a mobile mechanic business, so I'm probably going to make them about 30ft long so I can reach a car anywhere I need to.
Or have both lengths. Thanks for joining us.
Thanks for posting, I was looking for the cable size so your video was helpful. However, I think that binding the cables together is not a good idea. It increase the risk of accidentally touching the clamps together when disconnecting.
Since using them a few times now I would like to have better insulation around the clamps. I haven't had them touch because I'm careful but I have to be careful.
your idea is mildly retarded. nothing personal but i shared your post & i won a free breakfast for the
dumbest post this week. thnx
Hay can you make a set with weed guards lol
Bloody good leads and would last forever, but I keep thinking how many people would be arc'ing them together with the lack of insulation at the clamps. My OCD also kicks in with the 2x red leads. black insulated cable is available so would have been a better choice. That said. great idea!
I hear you. I suppose I assume if you can make them you can manage using them. 😁
Why not just use one big long piece of heat shrink to keep it nice and tidy?
you can certainly do that.
Very expensive piece of heatshrink
Sometimes there is a chance you Just need one long lead so you join them
Whats the size of your cable sir?
I mention it in the video.
Love your video's but leave any discussion about DC works to those who are qualified.
Why? Where was i wrong?
Use multimeter to recognise red or black wire
If you have too or just look for the red or black on the clamps.
Bad advice! You are not meant to use solder only crimping connections.
Oh yeah I did and I'm still alive. I've even managed to start a bunch of cars.
you can get heavier duty cables for less...
Sure but you don’t get the satisfaction of making cool stuff.
@@MadMatt4WD ha!... lol I feel I have been cool(ED). My miserable state of mind was un-snagged from the evil grip of cost. I can now enjoy satisfaction that was surreptitiously siphoned from me. T.Y., no, t.y. born again.
Tickety boo?
You like that ay.
Thanks for the info but.. definitely cheaper to purchase jumper leads... also who uses jumper lead these days when you can get lithium jump starter battery.
i have melted jump starter packs jump starting big diesels.. maybe suitable for your corolla.
A quality set of jumper leads that have a 200/400 amo rating are expensive, why not spend the same building something like this?
A mate of mine bought (200a) chinese jumper leads and they melted jump starting his patrol... meanwhile my jumper leads (similar to this) got us out of the bush.
Jumper leads in the bush can also be used as welding leads with a welding stick.. a lithium jump pack cannot do that.
@@DeejayManii absolutely no need for your toxic and salty reply. Going on about Corolla.
@@Jay-_-Lee sorry I never ment to come across as rude my apologies
@@DeejayManii i have a diesel 4wd... not corolla. lol thats prolly one of biggest insult you can do to diesel owner beside calling "prius"
I absolutely like content of the video have no issue with that. I should of said "Majority people" would find cheaper to purchase jumper lead. As myself purchase 750A rated one from SCA for under $50 when they were on 1/2 sale. but even at full price they are under $100. I just never come across where I need to welder vehicle on bush so I just never found needing of the jumper lead when I carry lithium jumper starter which has dual purpose of starting flat battery and charging my phone/gopro and flash light as emergency. also I have dual battery setup with override function which got me out all the time. again I'm yet to use the lithium battery starter either, but package does states up to 5Lt diesel. (arb jump starter). also I do find your original reply useful beside "your" corolla part lol