Richard, out of everyone testing and trying to explain things, I vote you #1 in that field. You sound like you are running on no sleep or getting a little bug, your voice sounds stressed. Hoping you feel well and thank you for all of your time with phenomenal data!!!
Been following for a long time. All this turbo stuff let's see the hard parts that make these things things go correct. Like the boost controllers. Wastegate selection and position. The real stuff that matters to get the most enjoyment with the least rework and wasted money buying things twice. Help us from being helpless
I'm not Richard Holdener but I have 7 years/50k street miles on my junkyard LQ4/chinese 7875 combo. I would bet one of the longest out there. I would not consider the stock LS PCMs in 2020. By time you get or rework the stock harness, unlock the PCM, buy hptuners credits, buy a wideband/afr gauge, and buy a boost controller, and have it all tuned it will be as or more expensive than the Holley Terminator X - except it will never be self tuning or have all the features. With an aftermarket PCM (TerminatorX/Megasquirt/Haltech), the pcm becomes the boost controller. An output is configured to pulse the ground of a solenoid that controls boost through supplying air to the top of the wastegate and measuring the effect based on the engine's map sensor reading. The solenoids are inexpensive and somewhat universal. The aftermarket PCMs can add/remove boost based on speed/gear and can cut spark and boost if there is a loss in fuel or oil pressure. A standalone boost controller, as used with a stock LS PCM, typically has a gauge inside the car which does the logic on controlling the solenoid, and a vacuum hose is run to the gauge. If this hose develops a leak then boost control will not be accurate. I have not had a chinese wastegate last past a year. I do not think many others have longevity tested like I have. I tried lubing/lightly sanding and the other tricks. I bought a name brand wastegate 3 years in. I think you should buy the largest wastegate you can afford. No real disadvantage to running a 60mm or twin 44s on a mild combination. Richard almost always runs dual gates. If the gate is too small then it may not flow enough to keep from overboosting depending on backpressure. The place where you will get the best and most accurate boost control is with the wastegate on the turbo itself. This involves welding the wastegate ring onto the housing and holesawing. Take a look at the factory turbo on an american diesel truck. That's where they are, typically cast into the housing. If you cannot put it on the housing then it should be as close to the turbo as possible. I do not and have not run a BOV with an automatic transmission and have no problems 7 years later. Anyone is welcome to join the great internet debate on that, but to me it is just one more complication.
@@chipcurrey653 all good stuff there. I was more questioning co2 ramping in a real world environment or the newer electronic wastegates. Just a video talking about fails and lessons learned with pictures or videos ect. Thank you for the piece of knowledge
@@chipcurrey653 Good stuff and interesting because I always thought an external wastegate was far desirable over an internal? They provide better control, exhaust flow an such. EDIT: The wastegate door broke off the shaft of my factory LB7 Dmax turbo. I rewelded a stainless exhaust valve for the fix. So I wouldn't say, in that application at least, that they are durable. Truck probly makes 500hp with 122k miles. Can look at my instagram for pictures of it.
@@FOXCRF450RIDER I am not advising you to get a turbo with an internal wastegate. The original post was about wastegate placement. I am advising to weld an aftermarket wastegate directly onto the turbine housing of an aftermarket turbo. As in...take a hole saw...hole saw the turbine housing...place the wastegate mount ring on the turbine...weld it on. That is what myself and others have had success with because we believe it provides the most accurate control...it's basically putting the control mechanism for exhaust gas flow at the very end of it's route instead of in the middle.
Here is an example with a small extension pipe ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/589782d1501223956-wastegate-mid-turbo-housing-img_6341_zps427fc648.jpg
You can tell how appreciated Richard is because most videos no matter the content atleast has 1 dislike for every 500 views but he doesn’t have a single one on this yet! We appreciate all the knowledge you’ve given and time and money you’ve saved us!
Thank you Richard for putting all this knowledge out to us (the people who only dream of having all this Dyno data) your info and knowledge is amazing and informative to help the common people to understand how different components affects and effects engines. Your videos are a wealth of information. Anyone who is looking to better understand how engines work and develop power is wise to watch your videos. Thank you.
This video is what I've been looking for for a long time. I am EXACTLY that guy who wants a badass muscle car that I can daily/cruise, be more subtle sounding, but haul ass when it needs to. I'm running a bored ls3 to 419. Upgraded internals, ls9 cam and single precision turbo.
Just make sure your transmission is up for it. 500hp is great for a 4.8, but it’s no good if you’re pooping out a 4L60E. At least in my little truck 300hp is sorta the limit on that particular transmission stock. If you have a manual then just make sure you have a beefier clutch set handy for later on. Other than my opinions go for it. Seems to be good output for such a seemingly small amount of work.
Nathan Brame What are you talking about? The entire worlds automotive emissions only contribute about 10% of total human emissions. People who drive fast cars and want to build high horsepower cars are a trace percentage of that already small percentage. Get your head out your ass.
My 3.0 Nissan VG30 V6 is getting a twin scroll gt45, cams, ported heads, and ported intake. Will make well over 600 but not without bending rods. Rods can safely take about 550 at the flywheel. Building a second VG motor, same setup but forged pistons and rods, stock crank.
@@fastinradfordable My 67 Chevelle SS 396 makes well over 500hp and doesn't have any sort of emissions equipment other than headers and a set of Flowmaster mufflers. Luckily I haven't noticed any negative impact on the environment.
I like the 6.2 and stock cam turbo stuff. I wish you would do stock cam 6.2 small twins maybe 57- 61mm then a small cam like you did with the 4.8 and 205 cam from summit. Lets say maybe 208-212 duration on a 114 -115 lsa and advace it a few degrees. Absolute drivability heck maybe even better fuel mileage (right foot pending of course). You the pipe dream have your cake and eat it to. There are a lot of the camaro running around out there and there not real expensive. Keep up the good work you are the man thanks.
Man u are so full of info that covers so many platforms I shared ur videos with my younger brother and he has learned so much whats funny is he called me today with a carb problem that I had no answer for other that send u a message lol thanks for being u we all appreciate it
Your vids really help me to understand the voodoo of turbos. I am old school taught and roots superchargers were the big deal then, but these turbo's are the cats ass. Stock cam? I don't know.......it works obviously, but where is the fun in it? I'm like Tim "the toolman Taylor" , if a little is good then a lot is better. More lift, more duration, faster ramps, more area under the curve.....stock cams are good for some folks and probably the best choice for a ton of applications. I'm not smart enough to realize that. I'm like a caveman that is mesmerized by shiny trinkets, except the trinkets in my case is a choppy idle. Keep up the great work. Where do I buy the energy drink you use?
So, watching all these fantastic LS vids has me thinking about buying a 1974 Vega (my first car) and dropping in an LS in it. In my dreams, I imagine a 427 with stock or mild cam and turbo that makes 700 ft/lbs from ~3000 rpm to 7500 rpm. I think it is doable with a good set of heads. If I could do it with a stock cam through mufflers, it would be a hell of a fun ride.
would be interesting to see a "how small can you go" turbo test with the stock cam. something that comes on super early and just gives you all the torque from ~2000rpm. im guessing going smaller than a 60-62mm turbo on a 5.3 or larger is going to choke it pretty easily once you try and get some RPM out of it.
Stock cam 4.8 with valve springs only, cast 78/75 turbo 30psi personal best to date is a 6.3 at 108mph, hitting it with a 200 shot to get out the hole til about 4psi of boost, stock decapped injectors
KaTech made over 1400hp on a Gen 5 LT4/5 stock bottom end with a stock cam. Blackdog Racing has also made over 1100rwhp on a stock bottom end, stock cam Gen 5 LT4. There are new 5.0 guys making over 1K RWHP on stock cams too. Fuel and boost people!
5.0 guys don't really need any help breathing via cams because they have 4 cams and 32 valves and tiny displacement. It's the pushrod guys that need all the breathing help they can get because of only 1 cam, 2 valves per cylinder and relatively large displacements.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Add more boost! People put way too much thought into cam selection. How many cams or valves really don't matter if you are not pushing enough air and fuel to make the HP.
I loved this test! i have a stock cam small turbo on my 4.8l silverado built for towing and it makes way more torque than my 6.2l in my denali! when people ask if they should swap to a 6.0 or boost the 4.8, i always say to boost the 4.8 its way more fun!
Geoff240ti i can 2nd the on3 kit got one on my 16 silverado. i have yet to tow anything but do a lot of drag racing lol same thing as Bocachevy couple minor issues but thats to be expected with any after market mod
Love your channel man its damn near perfect. I was wondering have you ever done a video on gen 3 hemi 5.7 running 392 oem camshaft? If not could you do 1? I'm sure it'd be very popular.
Adding a turbo to a stock engine is a great idea. I like the now days lol the better fuel economy of the stock cam. If it was a hot rod deal then yea more camshaft ect. I wondered and you may have committed on the subject but how would a cam with vvt that is designed to make more hp at higher rpms work . They may all ready do that . Thanks for all you do
If it's designed to make more horsepower at a certain RPM, it does that by making more torque at that RPM. Assuming the turbo isn't capped on flow, all it does is multiply torque. More or less the entire point of the video, the shape of the curve isn't going to change.
@@Doober12082 i agree! Not only do vortecs flow better but they'll bump the compression up about 1 point as well. My little nitrous v6 picked up almost half a second in the eigth just putting a set of lightly ported vortecs on it
Hay brother in a super fan bot since 2015 n only regret I didn't find u sooner u r awesome Richard a hero to us gear heads out there that don't got a ton if $ n showing us what works n haw n what dont n haw lol but on that noted wondered if u may b interested n selling ant of the awesome performance parts that u use on the show after u r done with them r something please do let me now buddy cause u always get my gears going n as I am disabled n get between 100$ to 700$ max a month for my family of 5 I don't have much of the green stuff laying around lol thanks Richard n keep do I g what u do I g brother❗❗🙏🙏❗❗❗👍👍❗❗❗❗
Hey Richard !!! From the graph of turbo boost curve from that gt45 it spools up to 8 pounds pretty damn quick at low rpms. I wonder what kind of tune it would have to get to make 500hp at 8 pounds. Reason why is you’ll have a flat 8 pounds from very early low rpms. Thanks Richard
Richard Holdener. Ya I guess I am asking that in a accidental way Lol. Sorry. It just seems it could make close to 500hp at 8 pounds with a different tune. But like you said there’s many ways to get high numbers in horsepower. Thanks Richard
Yes I'm still building my truck I have videos on here of it na but currently doin a whole rebuild less weight trans work suspension and stock 4.8 with tbss intake and cheap ebat turbo and deccapede injectors really cheap build lotta home made parts
I have a 5.3 ls4 thats stock cam with a mild s366 borg warner. Car gets great mileage, has great driveability, and reliability. Ill do a modest cam in the future with some ported heads. But its a daily so i dont wanna kill driveability.
🤔 stock is good. I just really like the curve the BTR torque cam makes, especially with a turbo for a street combo. All the extra area under the curve. Can an electronic boost controller with a mac valve change the shape of the curve on pump gas? Or would octane be the limiting factor. I assume that the boost run on these tests were limited due to running 91 and not e85 like in the big bang series. Good stuff though!
Great video! Considering all the engines you've tested, have you ever compared valve overlap vs. idle vacuum vs. idle quality? I like the idea of using a streetable camshaft... I was wondering how much overlap before obnoxiousness steps in. Thanks again.
@@richardholdener1727 I agree, I was just curious if you or anybody else had looked at the raw data - Is that data available anywhere? I'm retired and have plenty of time to analyze it, chart it and, even write a report, if you want.
@@dannoyes4493 In my experience one man's obnoxious is another man's daily driver. I want my car to work nearly like factory with more power. Some think having to throttle the vehicle at every light to keep it running is perfectly normal and won't have it any other way.
Okay I'm new and just built my first ls you responded to my one comment that helped me a lot, its a lq4 with the 54 454 cam and ported 799 and ultimate fitech ls intake and standalone and longtube headers is that a good combination i have it in car and starts just more kinks in it. Just i have been having trouble on the steam vent and thermostat.
This is probably the easiest way to add a steam vent if you are held up - cut your existing upper radiator hose in the middle, then clamp it on each side. It has a bleed valve which allow you to burp the system. The steam vent hooks up to the underside jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/fixed-ls1-steam-vent-tee-for-v8-engine-swap
Look up fasster.com. The guy is super helpful and has endless hoses and AN fittings. Top of the line quality, I use his stuff as much as possible. He has steam kits and fuel kits on Ebay. He is the only source I know of that has an AN steam hose kit for when using a FAST 102. Check him out!
I'd like to see more on a stock 6.0 LY6 with an added turbo for towing and spending most of its time under 3000rpm. What turbo would be best for this application?
Hi Mr. Holdener I think it would be neat if you had a ls or sbf turbo/centrifugal supercharger comparison. What I mean by this is using a average supercharger like a V1 S-trim that we know is 850cfm at 15psi and do a comparison to a equal sized turbo with the same cfm at 15psi so we can see the parasitic drag and efficiency of superchargers/turbos.
Cripes, this is exactly what I am looking for. I am building an E30 BMW, not for drag racing, but as a daily with passing power, the car stock made 125 HP. A stock 5.3 with minimal boost, and the ability to go higher with E85 is WAY more than I was hoping for. Thanks for the video, my goals are not only achievable, now I can see they are achievable with ease! Any recommendations for a stock 5.3 looking to get a mere 500 HP?
@@jeffcurrie123 The saddest part of this is that I grew up in the late 70's and 80's... the fact I can say "a mere 500 HP" 40 years later is absurd, but realistic. Which makes it even more absurd!
Richard Holdener Well, I’ll roll with the stocker until they come out. With a gen 2 VS racing billet, I imagine if I don’t get greedy, it will be plenty. Haha
@@richardholdener1727 thanks! I guess though the 6.2L has something like 11:1 compression ratio where my 6.0 L96 is 9.6:1 so I guess it wouldnt really make the same hp per inch would they? The 6.2 comes to 1.71hp per cube, but the 6.0L with lower compression is probably going to be more like 1.5hp per cube dont you think?
hey Richard, what about get a rebuilt factory spec lm7 leave it stock completely without changing a single thing from factory. test it for power numbers then add an eBay or equivalent air cooled turbo setup as if you're broke and want boost with no money. then test the limit of the engine and see what the power output could be and then dial it down to what will be a reliable daily driver but fun for off road 4wd stuff.
I'd like to see a video like the factory cam shootout you did using the same 5.3 and a single turbo set up and show what each factory cam makes. I'm guessing the LS9 would be on top? Then LS7 and in 3rd place the LS6 cam. Any of the car cams probably perform better than any of the factory truck cams huh?
I know you're limited on an engine dyno for the rpm sweep and you've said that it doesn't load up like it would on the street, but I think it would be cool to see a bit more on low speed power. Where bost comes in at and how to figure out turbo size for your needs. For example I'd love to see what the boosted 4.8 did from 1800 to 3000. Thats were I cruise on the highway and it would be nice to know if I can make more power in that area it won't downshift as much.
Richard would the stock ecu handle the fuel requirements ? This episode is exactly up my alley for my wife’s 4.great crew cab .also I will add a cam just a tad bigger than stock .
I'm making about 800-1000 (depending on pulley size, etc.) with stock ECU. The only problem I have is that I have to pay someone to tune it. I am someone who enjoys doing all of my own work, so paying someone a lot of money to tune my car every time I make changes really stinks. Furthermore working around your tuners schedule rather than your own schedule also sucks. But other than that they work really well and maintain 100% of stock gauges and wiring, that's a big plus, to me.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 why can't you tune yourself? If you've payed for multiple tuning sessions already then chances are you've already spent more than the cost of an MPVI2 and some HPTuners credits. Some engine management systems can do more things easier, but the stock GM ECU is still easy to tune in general.
@@brandoncharley3070 I need a mentor or a class or some schooling. I've built a lot of engines with carburetors and distributors and have been a mechanic for many years but my EFI tuning hasn't evolved yet. What do you suggest? I'm not rich but money is definitely not a problem. I would love to learn ASAP
I'm sure you have all the charts but for the stock 4.8 guys I'd like to see like a truck cam in a 4.8 vs a stock 5.3 like what it takes to get better and where because I assume it's never going to make more or as much under probably 4k
I think starting out with a turbo only is better bang for the buck. You can get just as much gain, if not more than a cam swap, for the same or less cost. I think cams should come after turbo.
i have a 2014 silverado single cab 5.3 soctck direct injection, with whipple supercharger with 11.00 boost, wather meth injection, custom tune, headers, magnaflow exhaust. 3.73 gears...... the truck makes 580 rwh.... on the dyno...
julian barreras my brother has a 16 sierra with a lt4 supercharger lt4 injectors a big cam (dont know the specs right off) 100% meth injection and long tube headers makes 595 to the wheels... i have a 16 silverado with a 76/75 turbo l86 injectors l86 intake and tb and a custom exhaust that comes outs right behind the cab hoping to make around 530 once i get it tuned in august... these trucks love boost
Dr. Richard, can you make a turbo LS video running on 91,93 octane fuel for us guys that aren't able to get e85 or run methanol want to see how much HP can be made so I know what to expect when my LS motor is done and boosted? Please and thank you... Be blessed 🙏🏾💯
Maybe a mild street Cam. But using the stock one with nice quality turbo system, I believe is a waste of potential HP & TQ that could still be a daily driver.
ToneM the fuel sytem is the biggest limiter on the 5.3s you hear about people making 800+ on stock bottom end and upgraded fuel system all the time... i have a boosted L83 stock bottom end with L86 injectors, intake, and throttle body making 560 to the wheels and only stopped there because of the torque converter... wouldnt be able to go much further tho because the internals are only rated for 650
HI Mate.. This is a very good Vid for what i am doing right now and I thank you once again. Can you please give me the full numbers and the A/R on both comp and turbine side and the ID of the exhaust outlet of the pump on the 5.3 motor... Please. Eddie C4 Australia.
I like the stock cam idea personally. Helps keep the cost down. But whats the secret to making more torque at say 3000rpm? I pull a 24ft enclosed V nose trailer with my 13 silverado 5.3 and if theres even a slight breeze shes screaming at 3000rpm in 4th trying to do 100km on the highway for a 5hr round trip. My poor 4l60e lol
Hey Richard, love the videos. Out of curiosity, on the 5.3, why would the turbo respond better before WG pressure was reached? Wouldn't that suggest a faulty Controller, or an issue with the Wastegate?
Looking at the boost curve for the 5.3 looks like your having exhaust creep from the wastegate. The rise on boost at load in tells me that it's into spool and not below the boost threshold. An electronic controller would really smooth things out, even though the compressor is huge, the turbine housing looks like it's keeping the drive pressure reasonable.
you can't see throttle load in on this curve (the boost/power curves supplied are only after the dyno has been released), unless I'm missing something here
Do you do diesel? Maximize the air with fixed fuel. Not biger lagger , smaller a turbo that puts 2000rpm in the center of the compressor map. Like 28psi 60°f at intake from 1400-2350, stock2500 gov on my 1st gen Cummins starts cutting fuel at 2000 and chassis dyno said the curve turns into a cliff at 2350. The normal school of thought is big laggy tyrbo to prevent choking at 3200rpm. With my 6sp Allison I have no use for above 2350=103mph with stock tires and gears. When I want to go faster I'll change the rear end. Goal FUEL STAYS STOCK SEALED PUMP/TUNE TILL I GET MY 130MPH CLUB HAT @BONNEVILLE I Have tested . H1c /21 stock 1150°\12psi H1C/16 BD 1100°\17 DYNO w/oc 148.8@1976whp and 491.0wtq@1846rpm H1C /12 925°\25 HX35/12 900°\28 HX35/6 QSV 900°\28 S366/80 .80AR 1150°\12 S366/80 .40AR 1200\20 (custom spacer blockes 1 valute same as QSV but no moving parts) S362/68 14cm QSV smallest non WG current 1250 °\20 Planed test S362/68 12cmwg w/spacer(BW twin WG interferes with BD QSV) Garrett G550 G660 , S257, He221 tuebos for 2.2l 4 cyl are were the maps point me. On the turbine side and no one has advice on low rpm high proformance 10 psi @1200 for smoke/EGT control @55 in top gear (2.17 finale) on grades with the HX35/6 QSV would pull @5psi but was still under the turbo ( too much fuel not enough shaft speed=high EGT 1000°)
So I like mopar .can you point out the good or bad of the 318 and 360 . I like the 318 (it sounds dumb) I think the motor drive better and sounds better with a cam . The 360 seems to be so different . Can you go over any of this in a show . I would like to see a shut out in this . Yes I know the power bands are different .is the power that far off from each other ? I think would be a good test . Thank you for your time .
Can you compare aftermarket big VVT cam vs non VVT aftermarket big cam in the same engine with boost? Maybe phasing the cam will still get more torque like it does NA? I've got a big cam 6.2 with a VVT cam. VVT seems pretty popular in the daily driver street/strip car in my experience lately
@@mcmillinjustin I feel like they are super popular in stock applications only but quickly get bypassed or removed almost immediately when upgrades are made. I am surprised that it isn't more popular in the aftermarket/ street race scene though because there are definitely great benefits to be had.
I would seem a stock 4.8 to maintain some fuel economy of a small displacement without running AFD then turbo big enough to start making boost above every day rpm range or use electronic wastegate to start boost above criusing rpm, now rethinking low boost stroker 6.2 for a 4.8 boosted to driveline capacity in Suburban
I'm sure some stock cam guys consider things like emission tests as well. Would be interesting to see a aftermarket cam comparison with emission levels, along with power gains. Maybe not an issue in USA though.
I think I need a stage 2 cam in my 6 liter with about 11.2 lb boost a stage 3 4l80e for my Jacked up shorty osb with 37's and 488's yep that would do it.
Haha..... I was watching this video and my girlfriend asked from the other room... “ what does Owen Wilson know about engines?” She says you sound like lightening McQueen! Lol.
Richard, how to size correctly cold pipe from turbo to intercooler like going from 2" to 2.5" diameter on twin turbo making like 1300hp? Does it make any difference on spool up?
At what point is too much torque down low on an LS with boost. Can they take 10psi at 2500 rpm? Id like to see a big bang theory type test but down low. Small twins all in at 2k.
Is there such a thing as injectors that are too big? Would you be able put injectors capable of big bang numbers on for your N/A base test and still tune it? I want to have some N/A fun before my turbo, and I'm trying to understand if whether or not I can just buy big injectors at the beginning and be done with fueling upgrades.
@@edgriswold3796 Excess heat is a major drawback of any turbo setup especially when you are working the engine hard for extended periods. The packaging under the hood can be a major pain as well. Lots of extra plumbing to deal with.
So say someone copies a build here that makes 1000 hp, how much can one expect to the rear wheels with all accessories and ac. I want to build a street car that has ac, maintains streetability but can go against hellcats and higher hp cars like that. Then what type of transmission would be best for that amount of power?
Naturally asperated guys should look into corvette hystory. GM from the beginning has based everything off the old 283 Turbo fire influenced by drag racers. Back in the day with their "chase for 1hp per cubic inch" they scientifically figured out the most beneficial bore (3.90), stroke (3.25) and valve size (i forgot the size). The 350 is actually a combination of the sizes they found to be too big for the feature responsible for 1hp per cubic inch. (The reason the developed the vortec heads was to cause the same "tornado vacuum" of the 283). Though corvette never released the 1hp per cubic inch spec parts (you have to bring the title to the specific year corvette to a dealership to prove ownership.). They can still tell you the best bore, stroke, valve size for maximum efficiency. People always called me crazy for loving the little 311 combo from combining the knowledge into one engine. Cant beat the gas milage and performance you get by doing it in an every day driver/street performance application though. I would love to see what would happen with an Ls build built to the most beneficial spec. I went old school with mine and used the factoary forged small journal 327 crank for mine. (I asked GM performance to assemble mine though. Only OEM spec cammed stroker combo you can assemble were anything over factory spec has to run in alcohol.)
I find it necessary to point out that back in the Old School days people used to try to speed up the vacuum in the cylinder and they were blowing up the engine due to over revving them. The fuel pump and carburetor combo is actually responsible for this happening. There was no way for them to stop feeding it fuel so when it would climb it would just continue to load it with fuel. The fuel pump on the engine block design is unfortunately responsible for exploding alot of really nice engine builds.
Hey Richard, what weight oil do you recommend for a typical turbocharged 5.3 SBE? Probably been asked a million times, but I’d like to hear your opinion 🤙. I have a gen 3 motor for what it’s worth.
Richard, out of everyone testing and trying to explain things, I vote you #1 in that field. You sound like you are running on no sleep or getting a little bug, your voice sounds stressed. Hoping you feel well and thank you for all of your time with phenomenal data!!!
Been following for a long time. All this turbo stuff let's see the hard parts that make these things things go correct. Like the boost controllers. Wastegate selection and position. The real stuff that matters to get the most enjoyment with the least rework and wasted money buying things twice. Help us from being helpless
I'm not Richard Holdener but I have 7 years/50k street miles on my junkyard LQ4/chinese 7875 combo. I would bet one of the longest out there.
I would not consider the stock LS PCMs in 2020. By time you get or rework the stock harness, unlock the PCM, buy hptuners credits, buy a wideband/afr gauge, and buy a boost controller, and have it all tuned it will be as or more expensive than the Holley Terminator X - except it will never be self tuning or have all the features.
With an aftermarket PCM (TerminatorX/Megasquirt/Haltech), the pcm becomes the boost controller. An output is configured to pulse the ground of a solenoid that controls boost through supplying air to the top of the wastegate and measuring the effect based on the engine's map sensor reading. The solenoids are inexpensive and somewhat universal.
The aftermarket PCMs can add/remove boost based on speed/gear and can cut spark and boost if there is a loss in fuel or oil pressure.
A standalone boost controller, as used with a stock LS PCM, typically has a gauge inside the car which does the logic on controlling the solenoid, and a vacuum hose is run to the gauge. If this hose develops a leak then boost control will not be accurate.
I have not had a chinese wastegate last past a year. I do not think many others have longevity tested like I have. I tried lubing/lightly sanding and the other tricks. I bought a name brand wastegate 3 years in.
I think you should buy the largest wastegate you can afford. No real disadvantage to running a 60mm or twin 44s on a mild combination. Richard almost always runs dual gates. If the gate is too small then it may not flow enough to keep from overboosting depending on backpressure.
The place where you will get the best and most accurate boost control is with the wastegate on the turbo itself. This involves welding the wastegate ring onto the housing and holesawing. Take a look at the factory turbo on an american diesel truck. That's where they are, typically cast into the housing. If you cannot put it on the housing then it should be as close to the turbo as possible.
I do not and have not run a BOV with an automatic transmission and have no problems 7 years later. Anyone is welcome to join the great internet debate on that, but to me it is just one more complication.
@@chipcurrey653 all good stuff there. I was more questioning co2 ramping in a real world environment or the newer electronic wastegates. Just a video talking about fails and lessons learned with pictures or videos ect. Thank you for the piece of knowledge
@@chipcurrey653 Good stuff and interesting because I always thought an external wastegate was far desirable over an internal? They provide better control, exhaust flow an such.
EDIT: The wastegate door broke off the shaft of my factory LB7 Dmax turbo. I rewelded a stainless exhaust valve for the fix. So I wouldn't say, in that application at least, that they are durable. Truck probly makes 500hp with 122k miles. Can look at my instagram for pictures of it.
@@FOXCRF450RIDER I am not advising you to get a turbo with an internal wastegate. The original post was about wastegate placement. I am advising to weld an aftermarket wastegate directly onto the turbine housing of an aftermarket turbo. As in...take a hole saw...hole saw the turbine housing...place the wastegate mount ring on the turbine...weld it on. That is what myself and others have had success with because we believe it provides the most accurate control...it's basically putting the control mechanism for exhaust gas flow at the very end of it's route instead of in the middle.
Here is an example with a small extension pipe
ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/forced-induction/589782d1501223956-wastegate-mid-turbo-housing-img_6341_zps427fc648.jpg
Remember kids every cam is a turbo cam :)
You can tell how appreciated Richard is because most videos no matter the content atleast has 1 dislike for every 500 views but he doesn’t have a single one on this yet! We appreciate all the knowledge you’ve given and time and money you’ve saved us!
I appreciate the support on my end to
YES,,, That goes double for me ... You are one hell of a shining light in all the bullshit out there.
Thanks for putting this video out. There are a TON of us guys that would do this. Not everyone that wants a little more power wants a race car.
Thanks Richard for testing cheaper aftermarket products and giving reviews so we don't waste money buying products that don't perform.
Thank you Richard for putting all this knowledge out to us (the people who only dream of having all this Dyno data) your info and knowledge is amazing and informative to help the common people to understand how different components affects and effects engines. Your videos are a wealth of information. Anyone who is looking to better understand how engines work and develop power is wise to watch your videos. Thank you.
This video is what I've been looking for for a long time. I am EXACTLY that guy who wants a badass muscle car that I can daily/cruise, be more subtle sounding, but haul ass when it needs to. I'm running a bored ls3 to 419. Upgraded internals, ls9 cam and single precision turbo.
I like any motor that can make 500 hp. So if my little 4.8 just wants an intake and a turbo with injectors. Let there be boost
Anyone wanting more power than 500hp in a street car is part of the reason why the whole world is being destroyed.
Just make sure your transmission is up for it. 500hp is great for a 4.8, but it’s no good if you’re pooping out a 4L60E. At least in my little truck 300hp is sorta the limit on that particular transmission stock. If you have a manual then just make sure you have a beefier clutch set handy for later on. Other than my opinions go for it. Seems to be good output for such a seemingly small amount of work.
Nathan Brame What are you talking about? The entire worlds automotive emissions only contribute about 10% of total human emissions. People who drive fast cars and want to build high horsepower cars are a trace percentage of that already small percentage. Get your head out your ass.
My 3.0 Nissan VG30 V6 is getting a twin scroll gt45, cams, ported heads, and ported intake. Will make well over 600 but not without bending rods. Rods can safely take about 550 at the flywheel. Building a second VG motor, same setup but forged pistons and rods, stock crank.
@@fastinradfordable My 67 Chevelle SS 396 makes well over 500hp and doesn't have any sort of emissions equipment other than headers and a set of Flowmaster mufflers. Luckily I haven't noticed any negative impact on the environment.
Perfect timing! I was debating whether to use the stock cam or something slightly larger. Stock cam it is!
Just got a chance to watch this episode, I love more power. But, stock cam w/turbo is really nice for the long run. Thanks.
the grand national was the first perfect daily driver!
I like the 6.2 and stock cam turbo stuff. I wish you would do stock cam 6.2 small twins maybe 57- 61mm then a small cam like you did with the 4.8 and 205 cam from summit. Lets say maybe 208-212 duration on a 114 -115 lsa and advace it a few degrees. Absolute drivability heck maybe even better fuel mileage (right foot pending of course). You the pipe dream have your cake and eat it to. There are a lot of the camaro running around out there and there not real expensive. Keep up the good work you are the man thanks.
Man u are so full of info that covers so many platforms I shared ur videos with my younger brother and he has learned so much whats funny is he called me today with a carb problem that I had no answer for other that send u a message lol thanks for being u we all appreciate it
happy to help if I can
Your vids really help me to understand the voodoo of turbos. I am old school taught and roots superchargers were the big deal then, but these turbo's are the cats ass. Stock cam? I don't know.......it works obviously, but where is the fun in it? I'm like Tim "the toolman Taylor" , if a little is good then a lot is better. More lift, more duration, faster ramps, more area under the curve.....stock cams are good for some folks and probably the best choice for a ton of applications. I'm not smart enough to realize that. I'm like a caveman that is mesmerized by shiny trinkets, except the trinkets in my case is a choppy idle.
Keep up the great work. Where do I buy the energy drink you use?
So, watching all these fantastic LS vids has me thinking about buying a 1974 Vega (my first car) and dropping in an LS in it. In my dreams, I imagine a 427 with stock or mild cam and turbo that makes 700 ft/lbs from ~3000 rpm to 7500 rpm. I think it is doable with a good set of heads. If I could do it with a stock cam through mufflers, it would be a hell of a fun ride.
7 lb of boost will make 700 lbs of torque. 30 lbs of boost will make 1,500 lb of torque on a 427 cubic inch engine
would be interesting to see a "how small can you go" turbo test with the stock cam. something that comes on super early and just gives you all the torque from ~2000rpm. im guessing going smaller than a 60-62mm turbo on a 5.3 or larger is going to choke it pretty easily once you try and get some RPM out of it.
Stock cam 4.8 with valve springs only, cast 78/75 turbo 30psi personal best to date is a 6.3 at 108mph, hitting it with a 200 shot to get out the hole til about 4psi of boost, stock decapped injectors
My little 4.3 v6 isn't far off what your motor does, only with 125 shot though. Whats yours in?
30lbs is a lil hard to believe on stock injectors thats a lot of air for stock fuel supply
@@teamvoxracing2192 Chevy luv
@@3BRAD5 decapped, they flow closer to 85 lbs
Why stop the nos at 4psi? Why not leave her spraying? Just curious. Thinking about something like that for myself. Just gathering information.
Excellent approach
A 'falling boost curve'. That's funny, never seen tht before.
Nice comparisons, good video. I would love to see a Road Kill / Holdener episode: Fairmont Wagon + LM7 + 7875 + 4L80e goes to Texas Mile...
Come on Richard, put those boys to work! Turbo time!!! 👍
KaTech made over 1400hp on a Gen 5 LT4/5 stock bottom end with a stock cam. Blackdog Racing has also made over 1100rwhp on a stock bottom end, stock cam Gen 5 LT4. There are new 5.0 guys making over 1K RWHP on stock cams too. Fuel and boost people!
5.0 guys don't really need any help breathing via cams because they have 4 cams and 32 valves and tiny displacement. It's the pushrod guys that need all the breathing help they can get because of only 1 cam, 2 valves per cylinder and relatively large displacements.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Add more boost! People put way too much thought into cam selection. How many cams or valves really don't matter if you are not pushing enough air and fuel to make the HP.
I loved this test! i have a stock cam small turbo on my 4.8l silverado built for towing and it makes way more torque than my 6.2l in my denali! when people ask if they should swap to a 6.0 or boost the 4.8, i always say to boost the 4.8 its way more fun!
Which turbo kit did you go with on your silverado? Or did you home build? Towing is the ultimate durability test!
@@Geoff240ti I used the on3 turbo kit. I have nearly 60k miles on it so far, there have been a couple small issues but overall I'm happy with it!
Geoff240ti i can 2nd the on3 kit got one on my 16 silverado. i have yet to tow anything but do a lot of drag racing lol same thing as Bocachevy
couple minor issues but thats to be expected with any after market mod
@@BocaChevy for some reason I missed the notification for this reply. Thanks for letting me know! I will seriously consider the on3 kit for my 99 4.8.
@@3BRAD5 thanks Brad, so happy to hear x2 success with the on3 kit.
Love your channel man its damn near perfect. I was wondering have you ever done a video on gen 3 hemi 5.7 running 392 oem camshaft? If not could you do 1? I'm sure it'd be very popular.
I had a stock cam 5.3 w/ 76mm cxracing turbo in a gbody. Made 435whp @10psi and boost came on hard and stayed strong....car was really fun
Adding a turbo to a stock engine is a great idea. I like the now days lol the better fuel economy of the stock cam. If it was a hot rod deal then yea more camshaft ect. I wondered and you may have committed on the subject but how would a cam with vvt that is designed to make more hp at higher rpms work . They may all ready do that . Thanks for all you do
If it's designed to make more horsepower at a certain RPM, it does that by making more torque at that RPM. Assuming the turbo isn't capped on flow, all it does is multiply torque. More or less the entire point of the video, the shape of the curve isn't going to change.
Excellent video!
This definitely caught my eye as I was thinking of a single turbo on my 93 Suburban!
Vortecs will be one of your biggest gains... TBI heads flow as much as a straw.
@@Doober12082 i agree! Not only do vortecs flow better but they'll bump the compression up about 1 point as well. My little nitrous v6 picked up almost half a second in the eigth just putting a set of lightly ported vortecs on it
I’m doing an LS swap in my 1992 suburban. Low mileage 6.0 that I plan to add a nice turbo & tune.
Hay brother in a super fan bot since 2015 n only regret I didn't find u sooner u r awesome Richard a hero to us gear heads out there that don't got a ton if $ n showing us what works n haw n what dont n haw lol but on that noted wondered if u may b interested n selling ant of the awesome performance parts that u use on the show after u r done with them r something please do let me now buddy cause u always get my gears going n as I am disabled n get between 100$ to 700$ max a month for my family of 5 I don't have much of the green stuff laying around lol thanks Richard n keep do I g what u do I g brother❗❗🙏🙏❗❗❗👍👍❗❗❗❗
Before watching this but watching all the previous turbo test. I predict it will be a VERY similar curve just elevated
That's cool. Thanks for the video. Good information.
great info for a stock set up, but finding the right waste gate springs, turbo size and transmission is another task.
Richard thow some motors up there with the stock rings I bet there is more ppl then you think would wanna see the 4.8 5.3 6.0 on the stock rings
all the big-bang motors had stock rings with extra ring gap-all the junkyard motors have stock rings
I would love to have that 4.8 liter in a grocery getter, it would be perfect.
Hey Richard !!! From the graph of turbo boost curve from that gt45 it spools up to 8 pounds pretty damn quick at low rpms. I wonder what kind of tune it would have to get to make 500hp at 8 pounds. Reason why is you’ll have a flat 8 pounds from very early low rpms. Thanks Richard
are you asking what the timing and AF were?
Richard Holdener. Ya I guess I am asking that in a accidental way Lol. Sorry. It just seems it could make close to 500hp at 8 pounds with a different tune. But like you said there’s many ways to get high numbers in horsepower. Thanks Richard
Awesome video! You mention at 3:10 that you might pick something a bit more responsive for a stock cam; what would you go for instead of the GT45?
you could go smaller if you don't want big power
Yes I'm still building my truck I have videos on here of it na but currently doin a whole rebuild less weight trans work suspension and stock 4.8 with tbss intake and cheap ebat turbo and deccapede injectors really cheap build lotta home made parts
I have a 5.3 ls4 thats stock cam with a mild s366 borg warner.
Car gets great mileage, has great driveability, and reliability.
Ill do a modest cam in the future with some ported heads. But its a daily so i dont wanna kill driveability.
Lovin' it. I'm planning an a rec port 6.0 or 6.2 eventually, but I've been on the fence about a lopey n/a cam or going with a mild cam and a turbo...
🤔 stock is good. I just really like the curve the BTR torque cam makes, especially with a turbo for a street combo. All the extra area under the curve. Can an electronic boost controller with a mac valve change the shape of the curve on pump gas? Or would octane be the limiting factor. I assume that the boost run on these tests were limited due to running 91 and not e85 like in the big bang series. Good stuff though!
Great video! Considering all the engines you've tested, have you ever compared valve overlap vs. idle vacuum vs. idle quality?
I like the idea of using a streetable camshaft... I was wondering how much overlap before obnoxiousness steps in.
Thanks again.
unfortunately that's subjective-lots of folks like the CHOP
@@richardholdener1727 I agree, I was just curious if you or anybody else had looked at the raw data - Is that data available anywhere? I'm retired and have plenty of time to analyze it, chart it and, even write a report, if you want.
@@dannoyes4493 In my experience one man's obnoxious is another man's daily driver. I want my car to work nearly like factory with more power. Some think having to throttle the vehicle at every light to keep it running is perfectly normal and won't have it any other way.
gofastwclass
Imagine cutting your lawn with a lawn mower that behaved in such a way.
Okay I'm new and just built my first ls you responded to my one comment that helped me a lot, its a lq4 with the 54 454 cam and ported 799 and ultimate fitech ls intake and standalone and longtube headers is that a good combination i have it in car and starts just more kinks in it. Just i have been having trouble on the steam vent and thermostat.
This is probably the easiest way to add a steam vent if you are held up - cut your existing upper radiator hose in the middle, then clamp it on each side. It has a bleed valve which allow you to burp the system. The steam vent hooks up to the underside
jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/fixed-ls1-steam-vent-tee-for-v8-engine-swap
Look up fasster.com. The guy is super helpful and has endless hoses and AN fittings. Top of the line quality, I use his stuff as much as possible. He has steam kits and fuel kits on Ebay. He is the only source I know of that has an AN steam hose kit for when using a FAST 102. Check him out!
I'd like to see more on a stock 6.0 LY6 with an added turbo for towing and spending most of its time under 3000rpm. What turbo would be best for this application?
Grate that’s about what I want to do stock 6L want to put a centrifugal blower, 6 speed auto think it will hold up don’t really beat on it .
Hi Mr. Holdener
I think it would be neat if you had a ls or sbf turbo/centrifugal supercharger comparison. What I mean by this is using a average supercharger like a V1 S-trim that we know is 850cfm at 15psi and do a comparison to a equal sized turbo with the same cfm at 15psi so we can see the parasitic drag and efficiency of superchargers/turbos.
Cripes, this is exactly what I am looking for. I am building an E30 BMW, not for drag racing, but as a daily with passing power, the car stock made 125 HP. A stock 5.3 with minimal boost, and the ability to go higher with E85 is WAY more than I was hoping for. Thanks for the video, my goals are not only achievable, now I can see they are achievable with ease! Any recommendations for a stock 5.3 looking to get a mere 500 HP?
That's what I'm looking for
@@jeffcurrie123 The saddest part of this is that I grew up in the late 70's and 80's... the fact I can say "a mere 500 HP" 40 years later is absurd, but realistic. Which makes it even more absurd!
Great as usual. Is there a timeline for the Holdener turbo cam?
Any cam is a holdener turbo cam
No timeline
Eric Blatz Duh. Good point. Should have referenced my notes. Haha
Richard Holdener Well, I’ll roll with the stocker until they come out. With a gen 2 VS racing billet, I imagine if I don’t get greedy, it will be plenty. Haha
About to add a lightning blower to my 5.4 V8. Was considering cams but I’m just gonna run it as is, just want the thing to move out of its own way
Great info! Roughly how much difference would there have been between this 6.2 and a 6.0 with the same setup?
easy calculation-take hp/inch of the 6.0L then multiply it by 6.2L
@@richardholdener1727 thanks! I guess though the 6.2L has something like 11:1 compression ratio where my 6.0 L96 is 9.6:1 so I guess it wouldnt really make the same hp per inch would they? The 6.2 comes to 1.71hp per cube, but the 6.0L with lower compression is probably going to be more like 1.5hp per cube dont you think?
hey Richard, what about get a rebuilt factory spec lm7 leave it stock completely without changing a single thing from factory. test it for power numbers then add an eBay or equivalent air cooled turbo setup as if you're broke and want boost with no money. then test the limit of the engine and see what the power output could be and then dial it down to what will be a reliable daily driver but fun for off road 4wd stuff.
STOCK RINGS GAP WILL FAIL
Great video. Great boost too.
I'd like to see a video like the factory cam shootout you did using the same 5.3 and a single turbo set up and show what each factory cam makes. I'm guessing the LS9 would be on top? Then LS7 and in 3rd place the LS6 cam. Any of the car cams probably perform better than any of the factory truck cams huh?
the results are the same under boost-whatever the curve is na-it's just higher with boost
What about diy carb test 🤔 this would be nice
I know you're limited on an engine dyno for the rpm sweep and you've said that it doesn't load up like it would on the street, but I think it would be cool to see a bit more on low speed power. Where bost comes in at and how to figure out turbo size for your needs. For example I'd love to see what the boosted 4.8 did from 1800 to 3000. Thats were I cruise on the highway and it would be nice to know if I can make more power in that area it won't downshift as much.
unfortunately, the engine dyno does not simulate roll-on boost response-that's better on a chassis dyno
Richard would the stock ecu handle the fuel requirements ? This episode is exactly up my alley for my wife’s 4.great crew cab .also I will add a cam just a tad bigger than stock .
lots of guys running turbos with stock ECUs-check with Matt at Sloppy-he had tunes as well
Stock ECU can run upto 3 bars of boost
I'm making about 800-1000 (depending on pulley size, etc.) with stock ECU. The only problem I have is that I have to pay someone to tune it. I am someone who enjoys doing all of my own work, so paying someone a lot of money to tune my car every time I make changes really stinks. Furthermore working around your tuners schedule rather than your own schedule also sucks. But other than that they work really well and maintain 100% of stock gauges and wiring, that's a big plus, to me.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 why can't you tune yourself? If you've payed for multiple tuning sessions already then chances are you've already spent more than the cost of an MPVI2 and some HPTuners credits. Some engine management systems can do more things easier, but the stock GM ECU is still easy to tune in general.
@@brandoncharley3070 I need a mentor or a class or some schooling. I've built a lot of engines with carburetors and distributors and have been a mechanic for many years but my EFI tuning hasn't evolved yet. What do you suggest? I'm not rich but money is definitely not a problem. I would love to learn ASAP
Do that test with the same setup again but swap it out with an LS2 camshaft. Then ls9 cam.
we've done plenty of turbo cam tests-look at the stock ls cam shoot out vid-all the answers are there
I'm sure you have all the charts but for the stock 4.8 guys I'd like to see like a truck cam in a 4.8 vs a stock 5.3 like what it takes to get better and where because I assume it's never going to make more or as much under probably 4k
the stock or cammed 4.8l will never makes as much as the 5.3l down low
Good point with 6.2 what trans and axels
I think starting out with a turbo only is better bang for the buck. You can get just as much gain, if not more than a cam swap, for the same or less cost. I think cams should come after turbo.
i have a 2014 silverado single cab 5.3 soctck direct injection, with whipple supercharger with 11.00 boost, wather meth injection, custom tune, headers, magnaflow exhaust. 3.73 gears...... the truck makes 580 rwh.... on the dyno...
julian barreras my brother has a 16 sierra with a lt4 supercharger lt4 injectors a big cam (dont know the specs right off) 100% meth injection and long tube headers makes 595 to the wheels... i have a 16 silverado with a 76/75 turbo l86 injectors l86 intake and tb and a custom exhaust that comes outs right behind the cab hoping to make around 530 once i get it tuned in august... these trucks love boost
julian barreras also did you have to upgrade your torque converter to make that kind of power my brothers wouldnt make over 450 on the stock one
Love the boost on stock parts. :-)
Dr. Richard, can you make a turbo LS video running on 91,93 octane fuel for us guys that aren't able to get e85 or run methanol want to see how much HP can be made so I know what to expect when my LS motor is done and boosted? Please and thank you... Be blessed 🙏🏾💯
That’s what I’m looking to do on my 98 trans am.
What size fuel injectors was you use with boost thanks for the videos
Maybe a mild street Cam. But using the stock one with nice quality turbo system, I believe is a waste of potential HP & TQ that could still be a daily driver.
ToneM the fuel sytem is the biggest limiter on the 5.3s you hear about people making 800+ on stock bottom end and upgraded fuel system all the time... i have a boosted L83 stock bottom end with L86 injectors, intake, and throttle body making 560 to the wheels and only stopped there because of the torque converter... wouldnt be able to go much further tho because the internals are only rated for 650
HI Mate.. This is a very good Vid for what i am doing right now and I thank you once again. Can you please give me the full numbers and the A/R on both comp and turbine side and the ID of the exhaust outlet of the pump on the 5.3 motor... Please.
Eddie C4 Australia.
Sorry-I don't have specs
I like the stock cam idea personally. Helps keep the cost down. But whats the secret to making more torque at say 3000rpm? I pull a 24ft enclosed V nose trailer with my 13 silverado 5.3 and if theres even a slight breeze shes screaming at 3000rpm in 4th trying to do 100km on the highway for a 5hr round trip. My poor 4l60e lol
this is just what i needed
stock cam allows stock low speed driveability. I'm a big fan of street cars with stock cams and solid boost HP numbers. Race cars can get lumpy cams.
Hey Richard, love the videos. Out of curiosity, on the 5.3, why would the turbo respond better before WG pressure was reached? Wouldn't that suggest a faulty Controller, or an issue with the Wastegate?
Looking at the boost curve for the 5.3 looks like your having exhaust creep from the wastegate. The rise on boost at load in tells me that it's into spool and not below the boost threshold. An electronic controller would really smooth things out, even though the compressor is huge, the turbine housing looks like it's keeping the drive pressure reasonable.
you can't see throttle load in on this curve (the boost/power curves supplied are only after the dyno has been released), unless I'm missing something here
Do you do diesel? Maximize the air with fixed fuel. Not biger lagger , smaller a turbo that puts 2000rpm in the center of the compressor map.
Like 28psi 60°f at intake from 1400-2350, stock2500 gov on my 1st gen Cummins starts cutting fuel at 2000 and chassis dyno said the curve turns into a cliff at 2350.
The normal school of thought is big laggy tyrbo to prevent choking at 3200rpm. With my 6sp Allison I have no use for above 2350=103mph with stock tires and gears. When I want to go faster I'll change the rear end.
Goal FUEL STAYS STOCK SEALED PUMP/TUNE TILL I GET MY 130MPH CLUB HAT @BONNEVILLE
I Have tested .
H1c /21 stock 1150°\12psi
H1C/16 BD 1100°\17 DYNO w/oc 148.8@1976whp and 491.0wtq@1846rpm
H1C /12 925°\25
HX35/12 900°\28
HX35/6 QSV 900°\28
S366/80 .80AR 1150°\12
S366/80 .40AR 1200\20 (custom spacer blockes 1 valute same as QSV but no moving parts)
S362/68 14cm QSV smallest non WG current 1250 °\20
Planed test
S362/68 12cmwg w/spacer(BW twin WG interferes with BD QSV)
Garrett G550 G660 , S257, He221 tuebos for 2.2l 4 cyl are were the maps point me.
On the turbine side and no one has advice on low rpm high proformance 10 psi @1200 for smoke/EGT control @55 in top gear (2.17 finale) on grades with the HX35/6 QSV would pull @5psi but was still under the turbo ( too much fuel not enough shaft speed=high EGT 1000°)
So I like mopar .can you point out the good or bad of the 318 and 360 . I like the 318 (it sounds dumb) I think the motor drive better and sounds better with a cam . The 360 seems to be so different . Can you go over any of this in a show . I would like to see a shut out in this . Yes I know the power bands are different .is the power that far off from each other ? I think would be a good test . Thank you for your time .
Can you compare aftermarket big VVT cam vs non VVT aftermarket big cam in the same engine with boost? Maybe phasing the cam will still get more torque like it does NA? I've got a big cam 6.2 with a VVT cam. VVT seems pretty popular in the daily driver street/strip car in my experience lately
I can't run VVT with the Holley
@@richardholdener1727 dang, would be an awesome test for sure though. I've not seen it done before.
Mast.
@@mcmillinjustin I feel like they are super popular in stock applications only but quickly get bypassed or removed almost immediately when upgrades are made. I am surprised that it isn't more popular in the aftermarket/ street race scene though because there are definitely great benefits to be had.
Would love a video showing what a tvs2300 type blower does
I always wondered what would happen
Have you done any testing on the new "GmPerformance L8P 6.6" engine?
BTR has
I would seem a stock 4.8 to maintain some fuel economy of a small displacement without running AFD then turbo big enough to start making boost above every day rpm range or use electronic wastegate to start boost above criusing rpm, now rethinking low boost stroker 6.2 for a 4.8 boosted to driveline capacity in Suburban
Were you running stock valve springs and injectors?
If not, what are you using? Also, what fuel?
stock injectors wont work-we had big ones to feed out later power outputs on this motor-usually pump/race gas mix
Have you done a boost-it-til-it-breaks on the Gen5s yet?
no sir-hard to get enough fuel
@@richardholdener1727 because of the way the VVT uses a fuel lobe on the cam?
LS+boost, awesome!
What about the positive displacement blowers. No love there?
I'm sure some stock cam guys consider things like emission tests as well. Would be interesting to see a aftermarket cam comparison with emission levels, along with power gains. Maybe not an issue in USA though.
I think I need a stage 2 cam in my 6 liter with about 11.2 lb boost a stage 3 4l80e for my Jacked up shorty osb with 37's and 488's yep that would do it.
Haha..... I was watching this video and my girlfriend asked from the other room... “ what does Owen Wilson know about engines?”
She says you sound like lightening McQueen! Lol.
I AM SPEED!
What about stock cam and a LSA with adapter?
Richard, how to size correctly cold pipe from turbo to intercooler like going from 2" to 2.5" diameter on twin turbo making like 1300hp? Does it make any difference on spool up?
At what point is too much torque down low on an LS with boost. Can they take 10psi at 2500 rpm? Id like to see a big bang theory type test but down low. Small twins all in at 2k.
that is what diesel engines are for
@@richardholdener1727thats what everyone says. Lol
Is there such a thing as injectors that are too big? Would you be able put injectors capable of big bang numbers on for your N/A base test and still tune it? I want to have some N/A fun before my turbo, and I'm trying to understand if whether or not I can just buy big injectors at the beginning and be done with fueling upgrades.
How would a iron block iron head 6.0 do?
How reliable is a turbo on a daily driver? Thanks for all the work you do
Reliable, as long as you keep under hood heat in check
@@dilsher12 do turbos make a lot more heat ?
@@edgriswold3796 Excess heat is a major drawback of any turbo setup especially when you are working the engine hard for extended periods. The packaging under the hood can be a major pain as well. Lots of extra plumbing to deal with.
So say someone copies a build here that makes 1000 hp, how much can one expect to the rear wheels with all accessories and ac. I want to build a street car that has ac, maintains streetability but can go against hellcats and higher hp cars like that. Then what type of transmission would be best for that amount of power?
do a stock L83 with boost
I second this motion!
Monster torque with babby engine on a stock cam
You should make a disclaimer telling us the springs and fuel system have been also changed so you dont get so many questions.
Would you still need to change the gap on the rings? Or is that part of the limitation of boost psi?
yes
Naturally asperated guys should look into corvette hystory. GM from the beginning has based everything off the old 283 Turbo fire influenced by drag racers. Back in the day with their "chase for 1hp per cubic inch" they scientifically figured out the most beneficial bore (3.90), stroke (3.25) and valve size (i forgot the size). The 350 is actually a combination of the sizes they found to be too big for the feature responsible for 1hp per cubic inch. (The reason the developed the vortec heads was to cause the same "tornado vacuum" of the 283). Though corvette never released the 1hp per cubic inch spec parts (you have to bring the title to the specific year corvette to a dealership to prove ownership.). They can still tell you the best bore, stroke, valve size for maximum efficiency. People always called me crazy for loving the little 311 combo from combining the knowledge into one engine. Cant beat the gas milage and performance you get by doing it in an every day driver/street performance application though.
I would love to see what would happen with an Ls build built to the most beneficial spec. I went old school with mine and used the factoary forged small journal 327 crank for mine. (I asked GM performance to assemble mine though. Only OEM spec cammed stroker combo you can assemble were anything over factory spec has to run in alcohol.)
I find it necessary to point out that back in the Old School days people used to try to speed up the vacuum in the cylinder and they were blowing up the engine due to over revving them. The fuel pump and carburetor combo is actually responsible for this happening. There was no way for them to stop feeding it fuel so when it would climb it would just continue to load it with fuel. The fuel pump on the engine block design is unfortunately responsible for exploding alot of really nice engine builds.
What about an 8.1 Swap? Ever came across one of them?
have not found 1 yet
Hey Richard, what weight oil do you recommend for a typical turbocharged 5.3 SBE? Probably been asked a million times, but I’d like to hear your opinion 🤙. I have a gen 3 motor for what it’s worth.
Yeet Skeetle Deet idk about gen 3 but i have a 76/75 on my gen 5 5.3 and i run t6 rotella it doesnt break down as bad under extreme turbo heat