Just quick reminder Every 4 stroke engine works off the same basic principles More flow is more better for peak power Average horsepower is typically morr important than peak power. Everh engine likes turbos E85 is always a good idea if you can properly compensate for it
5.3, 70-80mil turbo. E85 if you have it in your area. Mild cam. Converter. Supporting mods. Obviously easier said than done, however this will be the golden ticket.
To go as fast and no faster than everyone else doing the same Sloppy-style build, absolutely. If you want to be faster than average though, make a couple adjustments like jumping up to the next size turbo, injectors, fuel pump and/or down pipe. For example a 5.3 and a 70mm won’t make nearly as much as a 6.0 and an S480. Couple hundred extra horsepower for a couple hundred extra bucks… good stuff.
Let’s go! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have 2 5.3’s in my backyard. A aluminum and iron. Now I’m ready to sell the aluminum and start my turbo
If weight matters the aluminum will probably be able to make as much as you want and weigh less but if you are selling one you will definitely get more from the aluminum
@@james10739 totally. Just figured a iron block is gonna do like 800-1000 and a aluminum is like 1700-2500 for the truck motors so more power. Weight isn’t a big deal it’s a car that I’ll just be fucking around with my son with
I have a 2008 Saab 9-7x Aero 6.0 that a dealer put a brand new motor in, with a 3 year warranty. I am waiting to get out side the warranty and add a turbo. This is a great starting point. Gotta finds a Dino shop in the Boston area.
Thank you thank you thank you I'm haven't even watched it yet because I'm at work but this it exactly what content I was looking for my truck build is going slow but one day
5.3 with a stock crank forged rods and pistons making the CR 10.2 stock heads with springs BTR stage 2 Twin Turbo Cam. ARP main studs and Head studs. Mirrored image VS racing 67/62 Turbos, dual 44mm Waste gates 50MM BOV, Fast LSXRT 102 Intake with -8AN Fuel Rails and lines, Flowtech LS Turbo Headers and CX racing Twin turbo A2A intercooler Holley Termainator X max ECU and Terminator 100LB injectors should be a pretty good set up in the Bel Air and should be around 750 on 10 pounds but I went more for reliability than max power
Thank you sir, this video I believe is for a lot of people. It help me out. For a no prep/street car(mostly racing) what cam would you recommend with 1000+ HP goal In a LS 5.3 at higher RPMs? (Yes plan on a twin turbo set up to get there)
@@richardholdener1727 thanks, I believe no prep/back half of the track small tire racing is going to get really big in the next few years. Junk yard LS and turbos is going to be a good topic of discussion.
Good stuff! Which valve springs to choose? Which fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator? (lots use corvette 60psi filter/fpr) Internal/external waste gate? CBV/BOV choice?
How about a test between 317 and 823 heads to show the difference between cathedral port and rectangular port benefits and power bands?? Combustion chamber size is nearly identical, so it'd be a pretty good test showing flow capabilities. 6.0 N/A mild and wild builds with low RPM dyno info for those doing torque builds would be appreciated. It's a given that you'll show the upper RPM range. ;-)
What would you think about this combo ? 07 GXP Solstice= 3000# L92 (416 stroker) 11.1 cr L92 heads (823 casting) LS6 springs LS9 cam with LS7 lifters NNBS truck intake / 92mm throttle body 54# injectors and 450-LPH fuel pump 1 7/8 longtube headers 6L80e with stock truck converter 3.73:1 gears after all that, maybe add DNA GT45
I have a LMG 5.3 that I need to replace the CAM bearings and want to do a mild CAM and Turbo. I have the 243 heads and want a fun every day driver. Maybe a Stage 2 Cam and 650vs turbo..?
So I have a gen 4 5.3 and I also have a hx35 from a 5.9 Cummins. Was wondering what I could do as far as doing a single setup on my 5.3l what would I need as far as injectors and stuff not looking for big power its just a street ride that i want to make more fun
Great video Richard! That’s a lot of good information. I’ve been looking at Holly engine management systems to use on my project. I’d like to see a video on this topic. Thanks
Im thinking the most important question in all of this hasnt been covered as in static compression ?Because it will determine fuel type. If going E85 then problem pretty much solved but if going shitty pump gas and running 10 to 1 pistons and planning on running 20 PSI of boost ? then pretty much you are going to need race gas ? So I guess gas type and static compression go hand in hand because they limit the amount of boost you can have without building a 120 second grenade.
Great content as always, summarised beautifully. I have a stock LQ4 with a 3 bar MAP on megasquirt with 80lb injectors looking to make 500Hp.. I don’t have a turbo yet but was thinking Holset HX55 because they’re easily available here in Scotland and would also be in keeping with the old Volvo pickup it’s going in with Volvo branding on the coldside. My question: Given the low power I’m looking for compared with most builds I see, is there any chance of getting away with the HX55 internal wastegate? What’s the worst case scenario using an internal wastegate? It’s on a standard transmission and has a 60lb flywheel to help with not stalling on the power take off sometimes on idle. Thanks for any feedback.
@@KreatorOfDeath1985 The boost would be controlled by a blow off valve between intake and intercooler. Maybe you meant the back pressure? Surely it would need enough fuel for the back pressure to run away and the tune would sort that out? I’m thinking that every European car uses internal wastegates and I cant see it holding much back pressure against a decent sized turbo?
@@jamie_grieve Well... I suggest you do more research on how turbo systems work because controlling the boost is NOT what a blow off valve does/ will do. You may need an external wastegate from the sound of it.
@@mrdrenalin69 This was going to be my suggestion. Ls3 heads intake and a medium/ large sized cam with 9.2:1 CR I make 420 wheel. With 14lbs I make around 730 wheel with pretty cut timing on 93.
I think people should start out with what fuel they intend to use.. It's as important as HP target in deciding what motor combo you need to arrive at the target power. You're not making 1k HP on a 4.8 with a tiny cam or any cam without very high octane all the time.
Very true. A lot of people may only have 93 available and are going to struggle compared to someone running e85 or race fuel. There is a point where turning up the boost is just not an option.
I think my factory injectors on lq4 are not enough for just my cam upgrade. I plan on going turbo and I've already purchased the turbo plus a few items. I bought injectors that could handle everything my Turbo is capable of supporting with E85. Think be tuned to run on those before the turbo installed? Because that's going to be a while I have to glue my piggy bank back together.
Are the cam and springs the only change that is made to the valvetrain to accommodate for boost? Pushrods, rockers, timing set… all that can stay stock?
So I want my truck to chop, but the low end response is obviously nice. I’d like to make between 500-600. Would a bigger cam and smaller turbo be a decent idea?
Hi Richard, I know it's kind of off topic, but do you know how much HP a stock 4L60E can take? If I wanted to turbo or supercharge an LS1 with a 4L60E, could I do so without getting a fully built transmission if I wanted to keep it under 500 hp?
The 4L60E is the same transmission as the 4L60 and 700R4, with different cases, output shafts, and valve bodies. Most of the internals interchange between all of them. I build transmissions and I swap parts around between them often. For the layman, lets call them the same as far as torque capacity. I have run 700R4s behind a high compression E85 fueled Pontiac 455 making well over 550ftlbs with a flat torque curve, meaning its not 300ftlbs at 3000, its 540+ at 3000 and at 5000. I ran it the longest in a 65 GTO which weighs about 3400lbs, with a 3.42 gear behind it. They last two summers, about 4000 miles with the way I tend to beat on it. The 70 GTO is 4100lbs and it would last a bout a year. That car also broke Th400s with a 2.93 gear and 455s, not burned clutches, it broke hard parts and popped retaining rings out of clutch packs. Lots of grunt in a 4100lb car with a tall gear is a bit of a torture test for transmissions. Torque and weight find the weak links, minimal torque with lots of RPM brings different concerns, but chances are it won't exactly break the trans like towing a trailer or racing a heavy car. In a light car, say 2000 to 2800lbs with all the power being above 4500rpm, it will live longer, but they are definitely not a 1000hp trans... well, not for long. Why turbo or supercharge it if you only want 500hp? You can do that with a 6.0 swap pretty easy... according to Richard's videos. ;) I have done a lot to beef them up, servos, beast shells, valvebody mods, improved 3/4 packs, improved pumps and pressures, and they always start slipping going into 3rd. Drive it like a sensible person and they will live a long time. Beat on it, and 3/4 will go away, unless you really break something. Pumps tend to break too, like happened to the 60E behind the LS1 in my 98 Formula. It had 140k on it, and I did not baby that car, but for years it was my long distance economy car for going home 1500 miles on leave. The sunshells can crack, some builders always put them in, others never put them in, I will if its going in a vehicle that will be making power and getting driven hard or towing. I have a bunch of 99-07 Silverados with 60Es in them. The servo applies the band with more force so it can hold more when its applied. The 3/4 clutches are weak no matter what you do. Just not enough real estate in there to make them as beefy as a Th400/4L80E which for the layman can be considered the 3 speed and 4 speed OD version of the same trans, not much interchanges, though they're the same basic design. If you have the space to use one a 4L80 is your best bet with 500ftlbs or more and you want OD, otherwise go with the Th400 if you don't need OD. A gear vendors OD on the back of a Th400 is a very good option, but they get pricey, need a much shorter driveshaft, and more space in the trans tunnel which may or may not be available without hacking things up. If you don't mind rebuilding the trans all the time, and you learn to do it yourself, the first one is roughly $1000 in parts, then its $300 or so to freshen it when you burn clutches and bands from slipping. 700R4/4L60 with the TV cable are a bit touchy to rebuild, I have mixed results with them. The 60E doesn't have the same issues, mainly in the valvebody, because the ECM controls them. The going joke about the 7004R/4L60 is that they have reverse and five neutrals, or everything up to 2nd then three neutrals. If you have a 4th gen F body, you will break the rear end unless you have already replaced it with something bigger, 12 bolt, Dana 60, 9"... ask how I know.
@@SweatyFatGuy Wow dude! What a great reply! I've got a 03 vette bone stock 2.73 rear diff 70k miles. I was thinking of going the forced induction with 3.42s route to maintain stock-like drivability (its not my only car but I DO drive it to work every day I can, weather permitting). I would like to have some fun on the street and have the ability to run it at the track for 1/4 every once and a while and 500hp/500ft seems like a very easily achievable number with a super charger and little else. I'm a pretty sensible person, I don't drive like a maniac, but I do like to WOT every once in a while on the back roads. I'm guessing the 3.42s and supercharger is playing to close with fire for the 4L60E based on your experience?
@@smykster007 if it never hooks, it will live longer lol. The corvette has slightly improved stuff in the trans. Servos, etc. You could try it, and after a rebuild or two you'll know the limits. 3.42s will help over 2.73, and a 3000 to 3600 stall if you stay na would probably get you low 12s. Sounds glib, but in the end is only parts and money. 2200 to 2800 stall with boost, it will make more power down low.
Great video. Question for newbie - can I run 10lbs of boost safely without gapping the rings? Or what’s the most boost I can run without gapping the rings? I don’t want to have to pull the motor out. Thanks is this a dumb question?
I want to make about 800 horsepower I have a stock 2003 5.3 l out of a truck I have a sloppy stage 2 camshaft in springs I have several different intakes I want to know what turbochargers should I use I'd like to use two inexpensive I'm just going to beat the hell out of it and chunk it when it blows for the 4:56 or 411 gear in it and a stall speed
Hey Richard, if you ever come across the chance of running a turbonetics hurricane Benita on an ls platform please share the results! Can’t find any videos at all and everybody says in forums that they spool great for 650hp range.
Ok, 6.2 ls3 with a single turbo. I’d be looking at 650-700 whp on pump e. Currently it has a tsp stage 3 n/a cam on a terminator x max. What size turbo do I need and do I have to do pistons/rods, I’ve heard horror stories about ls3’s and boost at that hp level.
@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the reply. I’m space limited so I don’t see a s475 sized turbo fitting without cutting the structure of the car but I’ll do some measuring.
Can you do a video just on the process of getting the fuel side setup......from start to finish. I wanna turbo my 6.0 2500 sierra with about 8-9 psi......the physical part is easy for me.....its the fuel system setup and tuning the stock ecu is what i cant find any videos on
I have a Gen 4 5.3 with 243 Heads, 1 7/8 longtubes, CAI, stock truck intake. Which Cam would you personally choose to make the most power? Willing to buy a good torque converter also. Thanks for the help man
@@richardholdener1727 I want a cam that will make the best power with the setup I have right now. Maybe get a fast intake later on. I was considering a Sloppy Best Cam. Or do you think another option would be better?
lq9 6.0 stg2 cam 799 heads with 78mm single turbo pushing lets say 10-12 pounds... is that close to 700 whp realistically?? intake could stock or maybe a fast 92mm intake...
I have a question for you then. I have a 2017 silverado 2500 6.0. I pull a 10000 lb trailer and was wondering what kind of setup would you recommend. I don't want crazy amounts of hp. I want something reliable with a little more power for pulling. I would prefer a turbo kit. But what would you recommend. Just started following you and have learned a lot. Thanks
Hoping someone can answer this one for me: Richard, you're saying that the factory heads are fine with only a spring upgrade. Are the factory LS3 exhaust valves tough enough for a 1000 hp engine...and maybe E85? Thanks!
I have a question! Was up in Cedar City, UT last weekend and saw thing i had forgotten about, that broughthe question to mind. In Utah, Coloroado & some places in Wyoming, due to the elevation all the fuel grades are dropped two points, instead of 91, 89 & 87 here in Vegas, they only had 89(sometimes?), 87 & 85 octane fuel. What happens to your turbo beast with the safe 91 octane tune in the lowlands with nary a drop to be had? I know density altitude and tempratures have an effect, but now idea how much? Taking about 5000 to 8000+ ft elevation areas
You have a lot of research to do if this is one of your questions, pretty much any stock LS ecu is tune-able to over 1kwhp. But an aftermarket ecu will be more reliable at higher power levels because of all the safeties that can be set up
Hey Richard! What are your thoughts on ls1 + twin gt3076 internally gated for 500 hp goal? I mention specifically internally gated and twins because of space constraints on C5 corvette. Thanks!
Are you tuning this with the stock ecm? If so, how? I want to keep my truck as stock as possible. Only add a 500 HP turbo. How would I tune it to work correctly?
i have a L98 6Litre. i purchased a gt3582 that says 750hp max after a bit of thought.. i only want 600-650hp max. and power low down rather than up top.. is this turbo too small? will it choke the motor? or will it still work? its usually used for twin turbo setups,
@richardholdener1727 I'm thinking on buying the btr stage 2 turbo cam and thats the only concern I have is about the pushrods. Its going to be installed on a ls2 engine
Has anyone done the different runs with just upgraded spark plugs? Granted the hp will be marginal change, but curious if O2 changes which then may allow timing changes?
I'm Sure You Have Been Asked This Before And I Just Can't Find The Answer In Your Videos ... But The Question Is ... What Electric WaterPump Do You Use On Your JunkYard 5.3L's ??? ... I Have A 2007 5.3L Vortec LY5 With The 799 Heads ... Wanna Play With Is And Want An Electric Water Pump ...
Hi Richard love your channel. I am just a 56 yeAr old home DIY guy who is about to tackle my first ever LS engine build. 5.3LS from a 2004 Tahoe. It has 706 heads so happy so far. Going full stock to save money but am deciding between Truck Norris or Sloppy Best cam. You prior video was great using 243 heads but curious how a 706 head looks? I assume the same ? TN better at low end, SB better at high end? Have you pulled those CAMs on 706 heads?
Here's my 2 cents. Just run the 706 heads. Run the truck Norris or a similar summit pro ls cam. Long tube headers with a good tune and you will be running good
@@jmullis78ify oh yea definitely a spring upgrade. How important is a machine shop clean/ check or can I do that myself? I can sand/plane the deck but how important is having cylinders honed? Honestly I don’t have a car to put it in, but will look for anything “easy and low cost” for an LS engine. Any recommendations?
i have a cam that is 228/236 @ .050 lsa 112. lift .577.........is that a good cam to add a turbo to..i wasnt planning on turbo before, but now i am l98 6 litre
thanks man, all the way from New Zealand. man i love watching your stuff since buying my holden. i just brought a gt3582 last night while watching this exact video hoping to see this reply. haha@@richardholdener1727
I have a Sbe 5.3 made 427 on motor to the wheel on ethanol. I have a btr stage 4 n/a truck cam. Built it around nitrous. But want to switch turbo. Would it still be a good setup for turbo?
🎉That's a impossible question to answer tuning, gas, how it's driven, maintenance and how good the parts from the factory, how much power it makes before you start with which will dictate how much power you have in the end and back pressure all come into play. I put a forged bottom end on my twin turbo 5.3 and running 10 pounds it makes around 750 but it's a street car so I wanted reliability more than max power.
@@lucasmullins5100 yeah it's a weekend fun car that's what I was looking at wether to forge the bottom end or at the very least put some gen4 rods in it ,and look for around 600 to the wheels
@@richardholdener1727 so stick with this btr Nsr stage 4 truck cam an it will do good with my new 7875 vs racing turbo? What springs do you recommend I know said to upgrade anyway? Btr just me told wouldnt be good combo at all because of overlaps is so big.
Expand into kseries and miata motors. Build a 1.9 2.0 or 2.1 stroker miata motor and use maxspeeding rods turbo, among other parts. I can build a 400hp miata motor with 1.9 displacement. For a grand including ecu. So convince me not to kseries my miata or ls swap it. I'm trying to find ar.48 ar.50 turbo for my pretty much stock hard top miata. I also have turbo death miata kart. Extremely well built. Over built really. Still only 1500 pounds and it's 275 hp. I wish I could get a gas station to to convert to 85 within 100 miles of me. No idea why they got rid of them. We can't even get high test "93" ethanol free.
Me..91 octane,750 hp,5.3, 1 turbo with no inter cooler and stock exhaust manifolds 🥴also a mild cam like 210 and 216 and 114 ,550 lift.and the smallest turbo that can do it.
@@richardholdener1727 I’m not sure if we have 93 octane?intercooler just is a lot more work and have to have room for it.Was thinking almost always just be a short burst of boost on the street so maybe could make it work?? Maybe not a good idea
U got to have a computer to add fuel when boost comes on if your car didn't come with a turbo your factory sensors will not and I repeat will not add fuel under boost !!
Any Idea what turbo I should be going for? I don't even really care about power. I want torque so quick spooling turbo for around 2500/3000 - 5500rpm (although I'd still like it to rev), throw in a torque cam TS stage 2 / 3 or truck Norris. probably will make 600 - 800hp. 6L lq4 that I'm gonna refresh, port the stock heads. probably TBSS intake. First, though I'm going to build a 4l80e so it will handle 800hp. Thanks a ton for the videos they are quite helpful. Should I go high lift on the cam? trunnion bearings? i'll figure out injectors and exhaust size I'm sure, that stuff is pretty simple
A lot of overthinking. I've been running turbo 6.0s on the street for 10 years. Always with different variants of the 7875 turbo. You do not need ported heads or the tbss j Intake to make that power level. If you add those things you will just have to turn the boost down. Everyone who says they want low end power or quick spool has never had a fast car. That amount of low end power cannot be put to the ground with any drivetrain combination. Also ported heads will move the power band up not down. You do not need to build a 4l80 for that power level and you should try a stock one with the transgo shift kit until it breaks. Watch sloppy mechanics and see the countless cars he dynos and runs with 600-1000rwhp on stock 4l80s. I have never broken one.
@@chipcurrey653 I've heard too many bad things about the transgo shift kit plate leaking, and the pressure release. I'm refreshing an old 4l80e and I'm going to build it the way most trans guys do it by dual feeding internally. It's cheap anyways to go through and put some new clutches and seals in. not building it any more than that and my local transmission guy also recommended that I just go through it if I'm going to put power through a 150K mile transmission. TBSS intake is cheap will aid power and it's easier to get injectors for but I'll see, not something I need. I'm sure I'm going to learn a lot, I do understand that its hard to put down good low-end torque. it's still going to be hard to put 600 - 800 hp down even at 40mph. Thanks for the turbo recommendation just got to figure out ratios. Ya, I just got to do it, and not think to crazy about it. Once the spring comes and the weather is nice I'll get working on it Is it even worthwhile to cam it at that point? I know I'll need valve springs no matter what.
@@jacobvanhalteren7452 even a small camshaft significantly cuts cylinder pressure/dynamic compression ratio which really helps avoid knock on pump gas. I did run my first turbo lq4 with the stock cam and ran into detonation at fairly low boost and didn't think the power band was like a performance car at all. Seemed like it ran out of steam before 5k rpm. The thing people overthink is which cam. I've tried several and I think anything between 220-230 @ .050 and 500-600 lift seems about the same in practice
@@chipcurrey653 Thanks, then I'll probably go for a slightly larger cam to lower the DCR a bit maybe a TSP stage 3 or 4. I don't really want to run 91 but if I have to I will. 89 would be nice, I doubt I could get it to run well on 87. I hate the idea of dishing out 30$ extra for every tank with the fuel prices in Canada. perhaps some windshield washer injection might help with that too since I can get lots for free from work. I appreciate you sharing your expertise, thanks
I have always been a JDM guy and unfortunately didn’t know much about American V8’s. I’ve been learning a lot watching this channel. Love it
OMG Skyline!!!!!!!!!1
Just quick reminder
Every 4 stroke engine works off the same basic principles
More flow is more better for peak power
Average horsepower is typically morr important than peak power.
Everh engine likes turbos
E85 is always a good idea if you can properly compensate for it
5.3, 70-80mil turbo. E85 if you have it in your area. Mild cam. Converter. Supporting mods. Obviously easier said than done, however this will be the golden ticket.
To go as fast and no faster than everyone else doing the same Sloppy-style build, absolutely. If you want to be faster than average though, make a couple adjustments like jumping up to the next size turbo, injectors, fuel pump and/or down pipe.
For example a 5.3 and a 70mm won’t make nearly as much as a 6.0 and an S480. Couple hundred extra horsepower for a couple hundred extra bucks… good stuff.
I really appreciate the inj v hp breakdown at the end. That is eye opening and very telling. Very good information.
This videos was the best video explaining everything I wanted to know since I want to install a turbo on my 5.3 gen 3 Silverado thank you so much!
Did the turbo install ever happen ?
Let’s go! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have 2 5.3’s in my backyard. A aluminum and iron. Now I’m ready to sell the aluminum and start my turbo
If weight matters the aluminum will probably be able to make as much as you want and weigh less but if you are selling one you will definitely get more from the aluminum
Where are you located? I wouldn’t mind having an aluminum block around the house.
@@briandrmoreau3710 SoCal currently
@@james10739 totally. Just figured a iron block is gonna do like 800-1000 and a aluminum is like 1700-2500 for the truck motors so more power. Weight isn’t a big deal it’s a car that I’ll just be fucking around with my son with
mathew-what aluminum 5.3l do you have-I want it
I have a 2008 Saab 9-7x Aero 6.0 that a dealer put a brand new motor in, with a 3 year warranty. I am waiting to get out side the warranty and add a turbo. This is a great starting point. Gotta finds a Dino shop in the Boston area.
Wow this info is just the info ive been looking for. Thanks Rich. You are helping me focus in on my setup.
My chevelle ❤️’s this dude!
I want his signature on my completed engine.
I'm going to use after a lot of research
A pair of 66s the turbine wheel is 80. 73. .91ar. I'm hoping for the best
Thank you thank you thank you I'm haven't even watched it yet because I'm at work but this it exactly what content I was looking for my truck build is going slow but one day
5.3 with a stock crank forged rods and pistons making the CR 10.2 stock heads with springs BTR stage 2 Twin Turbo Cam. ARP main studs and Head studs. Mirrored image VS racing 67/62 Turbos, dual 44mm Waste gates 50MM BOV, Fast LSXRT 102 Intake with -8AN Fuel Rails and lines, Flowtech LS Turbo Headers and CX racing Twin turbo A2A intercooler Holley Termainator X max ECU and Terminator 100LB injectors should be a pretty good set up in the Bel Air and should be around 750 on 10 pounds but I went more for reliability than max power
Better be on e85 😆
You are an amazing teacher
Thank you sir, this video I believe is for a lot of people. It help me out. For a no prep/street car(mostly racing) what cam would you recommend with 1000+ HP goal In a LS 5.3 at higher RPMs? (Yes plan on a twin turbo set up to get there)
look at a Hot Rod cam from BTR or stage 1 turbo (lots of choices that can make 1000+ hp)
@@richardholdener1727 thanks, I believe no prep/back half of the track small tire racing is going to get really big in the next few years. Junk yard LS and turbos is going to be a good topic of discussion.
Great video, although I think it's safe to say, 90% of people, myself included, buy a GT45 to start then grow lol
Good stuff!
Which valve springs to choose?
Which fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator? (lots use corvette 60psi filter/fpr)
Internal/external waste gate?
CBV/BOV choice?
Best video ever Richard, thanks, learned a lot!!!
Very good Info....Thanks Richard
Great video. Very informative. To the point. I like it thanks Richard.
All good points except I don't see 200/210lb injectors doing near that much power on E85. Probably around 1700/crank hp in ideal conditions.
Depends on timing and fuel type and boost
How about a test between 317 and 823 heads to show the difference between cathedral port and rectangular port benefits and power bands?? Combustion chamber size is nearly identical, so it'd be a pretty good test showing flow capabilities. 6.0 N/A mild and wild builds with low RPM dyno info for those doing torque builds would be appreciated. It's a given that you'll show the upper RPM range. ;-)
that video is up
Yep watched that awhile back I recall square port flowed a nats azz more
800-850 to the tires turbo 400
2011 5.3 aluminum block
What would you think about this combo ?
07 GXP Solstice= 3000#
L92 (416 stroker) 11.1 cr
L92 heads (823 casting) LS6 springs
LS9 cam with LS7 lifters
NNBS truck intake / 92mm throttle body
54# injectors and 450-LPH fuel pump
1 7/8 longtube headers
6L80e with stock truck converter
3.73:1 gears
after all that, maybe add DNA GT45
I would pick a different cam
thank you sir, i will look into other cams, just thought the LS9 cam wouldnt blow the tires off at lower RPM. any suggestions ?
Thats what i want is the down low grunt. I'm running a 2000 yukon xl overland rig and i need the 1500 to 3500 grunt.
I have a LMG 5.3 that I need to replace the CAM bearings and want to do a mild CAM and Turbo. I have the 243 heads and want a fun every day driver. Maybe a Stage 2 Cam and 650vs turbo..?
Hello World & Richard the LS Czar in Krazy Cali from Oshawa Ontario. the center of the Universe!
You can use stock truck decaped injectors
What would be a good turbo set up to make 600whp reliable and do you need a turbo cam to run a turbo or will any cam work
any cam works-including stock. A 5.3L with my Low Buck Truck cam and low boost (GT45 Turbo) will easily make 600 whp
So I have a gen 4 5.3 and I also have a hx35 from a 5.9 Cummins. Was wondering what I could do as far as doing a single setup on my 5.3l what would I need as far as injectors and stuff not looking for big power its just a street ride that i want to make more fun
you need injectors, a bigger pump and tuning at a minimum-I would suggest ring gap
Great video Richard!
That’s a lot of good information.
I’ve been looking at Holly engine management systems to use on my project.
I’d like to see a video on this topic.
Thanks
Im thinking the most important question in all of this hasnt been covered as in static compression ?Because it will determine fuel type. If going E85 then problem pretty much solved but if going shitty pump gas and running 10 to 1 pistons and planning on running 20 PSI of boost ? then pretty much you are going to need race gas ? So I guess gas type and static compression go hand in hand because they limit the amount of boost you can have without building a 120 second grenade.
4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L (LQ4) junkyard ls motors don't have 10:1-problem solved
Great content as always, summarised beautifully.
I have a stock LQ4 with a 3 bar MAP on megasquirt with 80lb injectors looking to make 500Hp..
I don’t have a turbo yet but was thinking Holset HX55 because they’re easily available here in Scotland and would also be in keeping with the old Volvo pickup it’s going in with Volvo branding on the coldside.
My question:
Given the low power I’m looking for compared with most builds I see, is there any chance of getting away with the HX55 internal wastegate?
What’s the worst case scenario using an internal wastegate?
It’s on a standard transmission and has a 60lb flywheel to help with not stalling on the power take off sometimes on idle.
Thanks for any feedback.
Worst case is your boost runs away from you because the waste gate can't release enough exhaust. (Bad)
@@KreatorOfDeath1985
The boost would be controlled by a blow off valve between intake and intercooler. Maybe you meant the back pressure?
Surely it would need enough fuel for the back pressure to run away and the tune would sort that out? I’m thinking that every European car uses internal wastegates and I cant see it holding much back pressure against a decent sized turbo?
@@jamie_grieve Well... I suggest you do more research on how turbo systems work because controlling the boost is NOT what a blow off valve does/ will do. You may need an external wastegate from the sound of it.
You can make 500hp with that LQ4 without a turbo.
@@mrdrenalin69 This was going to be my suggestion. Ls3 heads intake and a medium/ large sized cam with 9.2:1 CR I make 420 wheel. With 14lbs I make around 730 wheel with pretty cut timing on 93.
I think people should start out with what fuel they intend to use.. It's as important as HP target in deciding what motor combo you need to arrive at the target power. You're not making 1k HP on a 4.8 with a tiny cam or any cam without very high octane all the time.
True, but you can adjust the tune and boost level to whatever fuel you want to run at any given time (within reason).
The horsepower level determines what fuel you will run
@@jasonhaschert1797 and the fuel people have available to them determines how much power they can make. Goes both ways
Very true. A lot of people may only have 93 available and are going to struggle compared to someone running e85 or race fuel. There is a point where turning up the boost is just not an option.
Wish I had access to quality e85 closer to me. Still a rarity in my area without driving 20 miles to a no name gas station
I think my factory injectors on lq4 are not enough for just my cam upgrade. I plan on going turbo and I've already purchased the turbo plus a few items. I bought injectors that could handle everything my Turbo is capable of supporting with E85. Think be tuned to run on those before the turbo installed? Because that's going to be a while I have to glue my piggy bank back together.
Are the cam and springs the only change that is made to the valvetrain to accommodate for boost? Pushrods, rockers, timing set… all that can stay stock?
IT CAN ALL STAY STOCK-EVEN THE CAM AND SPRINGS-UNLESS YOU WANT TO MAKE MORE POWER AT EVERY BOOST LEVEL
@@richardholdener1727 awesome! Thanks for the reply!
Awesome video!! Thank you!
So I want my truck to chop, but the low end response is obviously nice. I’d like to make between 500-600. Would a bigger cam and smaller turbo be a decent idea?
get a 5.3L, truck norris cam and a turbo
Hi Richard, I know it's kind of off topic, but do you know how much HP a stock 4L60E can take? If I wanted to turbo or supercharge an LS1 with a 4L60E, could I do so without getting a fully built transmission if I wanted to keep it under 500 hp?
I doubt it will hold
The 4L60E is the same transmission as the 4L60 and 700R4, with different cases, output shafts, and valve bodies. Most of the internals interchange between all of them. I build transmissions and I swap parts around between them often. For the layman, lets call them the same as far as torque capacity.
I have run 700R4s behind a high compression E85 fueled Pontiac 455 making well over 550ftlbs with a flat torque curve, meaning its not 300ftlbs at 3000, its 540+ at 3000 and at 5000. I ran it the longest in a 65 GTO which weighs about 3400lbs, with a 3.42 gear behind it. They last two summers, about 4000 miles with the way I tend to beat on it. The 70 GTO is 4100lbs and it would last a bout a year. That car also broke Th400s with a 2.93 gear and 455s, not burned clutches, it broke hard parts and popped retaining rings out of clutch packs. Lots of grunt in a 4100lb car with a tall gear is a bit of a torture test for transmissions. Torque and weight find the weak links, minimal torque with lots of RPM brings different concerns, but chances are it won't exactly break the trans like towing a trailer or racing a heavy car.
In a light car, say 2000 to 2800lbs with all the power being above 4500rpm, it will live longer, but they are definitely not a 1000hp trans... well, not for long. Why turbo or supercharge it if you only want 500hp? You can do that with a 6.0 swap pretty easy... according to Richard's videos. ;)
I have done a lot to beef them up, servos, beast shells, valvebody mods, improved 3/4 packs, improved pumps and pressures, and they always start slipping going into 3rd. Drive it like a sensible person and they will live a long time. Beat on it, and 3/4 will go away, unless you really break something. Pumps tend to break too, like happened to the 60E behind the LS1 in my 98 Formula. It had 140k on it, and I did not baby that car, but for years it was my long distance economy car for going home 1500 miles on leave.
The sunshells can crack, some builders always put them in, others never put them in, I will if its going in a vehicle that will be making power and getting driven hard or towing. I have a bunch of 99-07 Silverados with 60Es in them. The servo applies the band with more force so it can hold more when its applied. The 3/4 clutches are weak no matter what you do. Just not enough real estate in there to make them as beefy as a Th400/4L80E which for the layman can be considered the 3 speed and 4 speed OD version of the same trans, not much interchanges, though they're the same basic design.
If you have the space to use one a 4L80 is your best bet with 500ftlbs or more and you want OD, otherwise go with the Th400 if you don't need OD. A gear vendors OD on the back of a Th400 is a very good option, but they get pricey, need a much shorter driveshaft, and more space in the trans tunnel which may or may not be available without hacking things up.
If you don't mind rebuilding the trans all the time, and you learn to do it yourself, the first one is roughly $1000 in parts, then its $300 or so to freshen it when you burn clutches and bands from slipping. 700R4/4L60 with the TV cable are a bit touchy to rebuild, I have mixed results with them. The 60E doesn't have the same issues, mainly in the valvebody, because the ECM controls them. The going joke about the 7004R/4L60 is that they have reverse and five neutrals, or everything up to 2nd then three neutrals.
If you have a 4th gen F body, you will break the rear end unless you have already replaced it with something bigger, 12 bolt, Dana 60, 9"... ask how I know.
@@SweatyFatGuy Wow dude! What a great reply! I've got a 03 vette bone stock 2.73 rear diff 70k miles. I was thinking of going the forced induction with 3.42s route to maintain stock-like drivability (its not my only car but I DO drive it to work every day I can, weather permitting). I would like to have some fun on the street and have the ability to run it at the track for 1/4 every once and a while and 500hp/500ft seems like a very easily achievable number with a super charger and little else. I'm a pretty sensible person, I don't drive like a maniac, but I do like to WOT every once in a while on the back roads. I'm guessing the 3.42s and supercharger is playing to close with fire for the 4L60E based on your experience?
@@smykster007 if it never hooks, it will live longer lol. The corvette has slightly improved stuff in the trans. Servos, etc. You could try it, and after a rebuild or two you'll know the limits. 3.42s will help over 2.73, and a 3000 to 3600 stall if you stay na would probably get you low 12s. Sounds glib, but in the end is only parts and money. 2200 to 2800 stall with boost, it will make more power down low.
Do a 4L80E one time and be done.
Great video. Question for newbie - can I run 10lbs of boost safely without gapping the rings? Or what’s the most boost I can run without gapping the rings? I don’t want to have to pull the motor out. Thanks is this a dumb question?
THERE IS NO WAY TO KNOW WHAT IS SAFE
I want to make about 800 horsepower I have a stock 2003 5.3 l out of a truck I have a sloppy stage 2 camshaft in springs I have several different intakes I want to know what turbochargers should I use I'd like to use two inexpensive I'm just going to beat the hell out of it and chunk it when it blows for the 4:56 or 411 gear in it and a stall speed
gt3076s
@@richardholdener1727 what turbochargers should I use not cheap but inexpensive
I ANSWERED ALREADY
What do I need to do to the intake manifold to "prep" it for positive "boost" pressure. What need to be blocked, what can we still use?
ls?
@@richardholdener1727 yes LS or LT new LT. I am assuming similar things.
Hey Richard, if you ever come across the chance of running a turbonetics hurricane Benita on an ls platform please share the results! Can’t find any videos at all and everybody says in forums that they spool great for 650hp range.
In deciding desired power, at what hp level do we need to start considering upgrading internal parts?
so far stock bottom end has gone to 1543 hp
Ok, 6.2 ls3 with a single turbo. I’d be looking at 650-700 whp on pump e. Currently it has a tsp stage 3 n/a cam on a terminator x max. What size turbo do I need and do I have to do pistons/rods, I’ve heard horror stories about ls3’s and boost at that hp level.
s475 or 7875-you need ring gap
@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the reply. I’m space limited so I don’t see a s475 sized turbo fitting without cutting the structure of the car but I’ll do some measuring.
Can you do a video just on the process of getting the fuel side setup......from start to finish. I wanna turbo my 6.0 2500 sierra with about 8-9 psi......the physical part is easy for me.....its the fuel system setup and tuning the stock ecu is what i cant find any videos on
I have a Gen 4 5.3 with 243 Heads, 1 7/8 longtubes, CAI, stock truck intake. Which Cam would you personally choose to make the most power? Willing to buy a good torque converter also. Thanks for the help man
HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU PERSONALLY WANT TO MAKE
@@richardholdener1727 I want a cam that will make the best power with the setup I have right now. Maybe get a fast intake later on. I was considering a Sloppy Best Cam. Or do you think another option would be better?
@@richardholdener1727 was also considering a Texas speed 228R cam
THERE IS NO BEST POWER WITH YOUR COMBO-TAKE A LOOK AT THE MANY VIDEOS UP ON 5.3L BUILDS AND PICK THE CAM THAT GIVES YOU THE POWER CURVE YOU WANT
I’m doing a LQ4 gen 3 twin turbo build shooting for 1200hp and my question is are you using OEM coils or aftermarket?
stock LS3 coils with 4.5ms of dwell in ECU
Is there any reason not to go straight to 200 pound injectors? Seems like an incremental cost increase for a lot more head room.
lq9 6.0 stg2 cam 799 heads with 78mm single turbo pushing lets say 10-12 pounds... is that close to 700 whp realistically?? intake could stock or maybe a fast 92mm intake...
yes-with good fuel or e85 and an intercooler and proper exhaust size
I have a question for you then. I have a 2017 silverado 2500 6.0. I pull a 10000 lb trailer and was wondering what kind of setup would you recommend. I don't want crazy amounts of hp. I want something reliable with a little more power for pulling. I would prefer a turbo kit. But what would you recommend. Just started following you and have learned a lot. Thanks
low boost turbo or blower works well
Any thing need to be done transmission wise. Thanks
Great video as always. Very informative for me especially about the injector sizes and how much hp they support na, under boost and on e85.
Hoping someone can answer this one for me: Richard, you're saying that the factory heads are fine with only a spring upgrade. Are the factory LS3 exhaust valves tough enough for a 1000 hp engine...and maybe E85? Thanks!
YES-I WOULD NOT RUN THEM SUSTAINED AT THAT LEVEL, BUT FOR SHORT BURST
I have a question! Was up in Cedar City, UT last weekend and saw thing i had forgotten about, that broughthe question to mind. In Utah, Coloroado & some places in Wyoming, due to the elevation all the fuel grades are dropped two points, instead of 91, 89 & 87 here in Vegas, they only had 89(sometimes?), 87 & 85 octane fuel. What happens to your turbo beast with the safe 91 octane tune in the lowlands with nary a drop to be had? I know density altitude and tempratures have an effect, but now idea how much? Taking about 5000 to 8000+ ft elevation areas
it will be fine at elevation, since you will be making less power (might have to tune the af)
@@richardholdener1727 Thanks!
What map sensor are guys using on booted 3rd gen LS’s (02 Silverado)
This is good stuff !
What would be a recommend fuel pump for a mild cam, 75lb injectors in a 5.3l turbo?
Thanks
May I have a link to this timing set? I need one
What about ECU ? Can I run a turbocharger LS with the OEM ECM ?
Many people do run a stock ecm.
You have a lot of research to do if this is one of your questions, pretty much any stock LS ecu is tune-able to over 1kwhp. But an aftermarket ecu will be more reliable at higher power levels because of all the safeties that can be set up
yes u can run stock ecu-watch sloppy mechanics
Hey Richard! What are your thoughts on ls1 + twin gt3076 internally gated for 500 hp goal?
I mention specifically internally gated and twins because of space constraints on C5 corvette.
Thanks!
please rephrase-don't ask a question with the words thoughts in it
@@richardholdener1727 from your experience, would twin internally gated gt3076's on a stock ls1 be a good choice for 500hp
This video should be required viewing at the Summit racing parts counter.
1000hp sounds great but I've heard that you need to do bottom end not top lol
With correct tuning and the rings gapped it’s possible to stay fairly reliable
Are you tuning this with the stock ecm? If so, how? I want to keep my truck as stock as possible. Only add a 500 HP turbo. How would I tune it to work correctly?
I USE HOLLEY ECU
I love these videos, I learn so much, but sometimes it’s excruciating to just get to the answer lol.
Mine sounds like a good test 🫤maybe 600 or 650 hp
i have a L98 6Litre. i purchased a gt3582 that says 750hp max after a bit of thought.. i only want 600-650hp max. and power low down rather than up top.. is this turbo too small? will it choke the motor?
or will it still work? its usually used for twin turbo setups,
you should get a GT45 for that power level
what would be the best transmission for a LS 5.3 ?
Dou you need to change pushrods if you are swapping cam??
sometimes
@richardholdener1727 I'm thinking on buying the btr stage 2 turbo cam and thats the only concern I have is about the pushrods. Its going to be installed on a ls2 engine
I have a 2013 Camaro v6 3.6 lfx is there anyway to gain decent hp or should I just swap motors
BOOST
Where should I go affordable n thank you for the reply back I'm sure ur a busy man I enjoy watching u really know ur &hit
Question… if I turbo my 04 denali will it still pass a California smog check
is it an emissions certified turbo kit? or a possibly an after cat remote turbo?
How much horsepower can you make with a turbocharged LS3 6.2 on pump e85 fuel
we don't take the alum ls3 blocks over 1000 hp usually
What about gen v lt1 engines? I never see you doing them?
WATCH THE L83 AND OTHER LT1 VIDS
Has anyone done the different runs with just upgraded spark plugs? Granted the hp will be marginal change, but curious if O2 changes which then may allow timing changes?
yes
I'm Sure You Have Been Asked This Before And I Just Can't Find The Answer In Your Videos ... But The Question Is ... What Electric WaterPump Do You Use On Your JunkYard 5.3L's ??? ... I Have A 2007 5.3L Vortec LY5 With The 799 Heads ... Wanna Play With Is And Want An Electric Water Pump ...
meziere
What do u thinlk of garrett gt4508 as a single turbo setup on ly6 120lb injectors would it choke or sufficient for 1000whp
a real garrett gt45 will support way more than 1000 hp
Hi Richard love your channel. I am just a 56 yeAr old home DIY guy who is about to tackle my first ever LS engine build. 5.3LS from a 2004 Tahoe. It has 706 heads so happy so far. Going full stock to save money but am deciding between Truck Norris or Sloppy Best cam. You prior video was great using 243 heads but curious how a 706 head looks? I assume the same ? TN better at low end, SB better at high end? Have you pulled those CAMs on 706 heads?
What's 507 heads?
Here's my 2 cents. Just run the 706 heads. Run the truck Norris or a similar summit pro ls cam. Long tube headers with a good tune and you will be running good
Oh yeah ls6 springs. What car is it going in?
@@jmullis78ify sorry. I keep calling a 706 head a 507. No idea why. Arrrrg. I fixed it in comment. Thanks
@@jmullis78ify oh yea definitely a spring upgrade. How important is a machine shop clean/ check or can I do that myself? I can sand/plane the deck but how important is having cylinders honed? Honestly I don’t have a car to put it in, but will look for anything “easy and low cost” for an LS engine. Any recommendations?
i have a cam that is 228/236 @ .050 lsa 112. lift .577.........is that a good cam to add a turbo to..i wasnt planning on turbo before, but now i am l98 6 litre
yes it will work with a turbo
thanks man, all the way from New Zealand. man i love watching your stuff since buying my holden. i just brought a gt3582 last night while watching this exact video hoping to see this reply. haha@@richardholdener1727
I have a Sbe 5.3 made 427 on motor to the wheel on ethanol. I have a btr stage 4 n/a truck cam. Built it around nitrous. But want to switch turbo. Would it still be a good setup for turbo?
you made 427 whp with a stage 4 truck cam?
@@richardholdener1727 yes sir. Holley split intake with 4150 throttle body. With prc stage 2.5 58cc cylinder heads.
What's the longevity going to be using gen3 4.8with boost only gaping the rings with no more than 15 psi do you think Richard
🎉That's a impossible question to answer tuning, gas, how it's driven, maintenance and how good the parts from the factory, how much power it makes before you start with which will dictate how much power you have in the end and back pressure all come into play. I put a forged bottom end on my twin turbo 5.3 and running 10 pounds it makes around 750 but it's a street car so I wanted reliability more than max power.
@@lucasmullins5100 yeah it's a weekend fun car that's what I was looking at wether to forge the bottom end or at the very least put some gen4 rods in it ,and look for around 600 to the wheels
strength wise you are fine-but with a cam that is a lot of power, if using stock cam, then add a cam and turbo boost down
With this desired power be crank or wheel hp
flywheel
Richard, can I run a turbo with a 223/226 600/600 111LSA?
YES
Thank you and thank you for sharing all of your knowledge with us.
I have btr Nsr stage 4 truck cam just ordered 75m vs racing turbo will that be good combo. I order the cam before I decide to do turbo
it is bigger than I would use
@@richardholdener1727 so stick with this btr Nsr stage 4 truck cam an it will do good with my new 7875 vs racing turbo? What springs do you recommend I know said to upgrade anyway? Btr just me told wouldnt be good combo at all because of overlaps is so big.
@@richardholdener1727 what would you recommend
! ? CAMERA in the 02 port of a 8 into 1 Header wanna see each fire or header to empty box muffler or can 8 into 1 SWIRL FIRE
CAMERA THAT WILL WITHSTAND 1000+ DEGREE?
Would you have to gap the rings
yes
I have a 6.0 with cast iron heads. Will these heads still work?
yes-but aluminum would be better
@@richardholdener1727 okay cool deal. 243, 241, 317, 862 heads. Does it matter which one of these heads I use for boost?
Expand into kseries and miata motors. Build a 1.9 2.0 or 2.1 stroker miata motor and use maxspeeding rods turbo, among other parts. I can build a 400hp miata motor with 1.9 displacement. For a grand including ecu. So convince me not to kseries my miata or ls swap it. I'm trying to find ar.48 ar.50 turbo for my pretty much stock hard top miata. I also have turbo death miata kart. Extremely well built. Over built really. Still only 1500 pounds and it's 275 hp. I wish I could get a gas station to to convert to 85 within 100 miles of me. No idea why they got rid of them. We can't even get high test "93" ethanol free.
I have K series videos up-I wrote a book on them as well as two others on B & D series. I made a few custom Miata intakes.
Me..91 octane,750 hp,5.3, 1 turbo with no inter cooler and stock exhaust manifolds 🥴also a mild cam like 210 and 216 and 114 ,550 lift.and the smallest turbo that can do it.
WHY NO INTERCOOLER? AND 91?
@@richardholdener1727 I’m not sure if we have 93 octane?intercooler just is a lot more work and have to have room for it.Was thinking almost always just be a short burst of boost on the street so maybe could make it work?? Maybe not a good idea
Terrible combination and idea
@@chipcurrey653 how do you know mr big brain 🧠 have you tried it?? Bet not keyboard cowboy in you parents basement 😂😂😂😜😜
@@chipcurrey653 are you chocolate chip or tater chip lol 😂 I’ll
IT MUST BE PERFECT (little devil on your shoulder) vs JUST GET IT DONE (little angel on your other shoulder)
440 is bigger, Heads are smaller. Houston, we have a problem. 😝
What if I want 2000 ft-lb? 😎
diesel
Really the first question is how much money do I have $$?
I feel attacked. I verbally said "AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE" the first time you asked "how much power do you want to make?"
then we have all learned
U got to have a computer to add fuel when boost comes on if your car didn't come with a turbo your factory sensors will not and I repeat will not add fuel under boost !!
If you run an FMU, it will
Any Idea what turbo I should be going for?
I don't even really care about power. I want torque so quick spooling turbo for around 2500/3000 - 5500rpm (although I'd still like it to rev), throw in a torque cam TS stage 2 / 3 or truck Norris. probably will make 600 - 800hp. 6L lq4 that I'm gonna refresh, port the stock heads. probably TBSS intake. First, though I'm going to build a 4l80e so it will handle 800hp. Thanks a ton for the videos they are quite helpful. Should I go high lift on the cam? trunnion bearings? i'll figure out injectors and exhaust size I'm sure, that stuff is pretty simple
A lot of overthinking. I've been running turbo 6.0s on the street for 10 years. Always with different variants of the 7875 turbo. You do not need ported heads or the tbss j
Intake to make that power level. If you add those things you will just have to turn the boost down. Everyone who says they want low end power or quick spool has never had a fast car. That amount of low end power cannot be put to the ground with any drivetrain combination. Also ported heads will move the power band up not down.
You do not need to build a 4l80 for that power level and you should try a stock one with the transgo shift kit until it breaks. Watch sloppy mechanics and see the countless cars he dynos and runs with 600-1000rwhp on stock 4l80s. I have never broken one.
@@chipcurrey653 I've heard too many bad things about the transgo shift kit plate leaking, and the pressure release. I'm refreshing an old 4l80e and I'm going to build it the way most trans guys do it by dual feeding internally. It's cheap anyways to go through and put some new clutches and seals in. not building it any more than that and my local transmission guy also recommended that I just go through it if I'm going to put power through a 150K mile transmission.
TBSS intake is cheap will aid power and it's easier to get injectors for but I'll see, not something I need.
I'm sure I'm going to learn a lot, I do understand that its hard to put down good low-end torque. it's still going to be hard to put 600 - 800 hp down even at 40mph.
Thanks for the turbo recommendation just got to figure out ratios.
Ya, I just got to do it, and not think to crazy about it. Once the spring comes and the weather is nice I'll get working on it
Is it even worthwhile to cam it at that point? I know I'll need valve springs no matter what.
@@jacobvanhalteren7452 even a small camshaft significantly cuts cylinder pressure/dynamic compression ratio which really helps avoid knock on pump gas. I did run my first turbo lq4 with the stock cam and ran into detonation at fairly low boost and didn't think the power band was like a performance car at all. Seemed like it ran out of steam before 5k rpm.
The thing people overthink is which cam. I've tried several and I think anything between 220-230 @ .050 and 500-600 lift seems about the same in practice
@@chipcurrey653 Thanks, then I'll probably go for a slightly larger cam to lower the DCR a bit maybe a TSP stage 3 or 4. I don't really want to run 91 but if I have to I will. 89 would be nice, I doubt I could get it to run well on 87. I hate the idea of dishing out 30$ extra for every tank with the fuel prices in Canada. perhaps some windshield washer injection might help with that too since I can get lots for free from work.
I appreciate you sharing your expertise, thanks
You know what be better than 20 pounds of boost and 1,000 horsepower? 25 pounds. or 26.
My question has always been ring gap
.028-.030
Really was wanting as much hp as possible 😢
you really don't
Aloha brother
TAKE MY MONEY 💰 !!!!
Hey, be careful with that $100 bill man
Ring Gap