Gotta admit, I used to hate carbs in my younger years as efi was so easy however, today i’ve carbs on everything. The tinkering and fine tuning is what makes this hobby enjoyable ❤
@@academaciated7466 if you’re tuning efi, carbs will be pretty easy to understand! But yeah mechanically they’re a little more complicated depending on what you work on. Glad you’re enjoying working on them!
So right now im in the deepeths of tuning my Triple DCOE carbs on my Datsun 260Z. I work at a drag strip so im drag racing it and I'm actually going to bracket race in less than 2 weeks for No Name Nationals. Iv had the carbs on the car since winter but now im actually driving on the highway and made 5 passes down the track this Saturday. Your channel is always an amazing sanity check/ reference/ problem solver.
You helped me so much on tuning my avs2. I got my timing right, my fuel regulator set at 5.5psi. I got my tuning kit and installed a AFR gauge. My K5 runs amazing. Only thing I need to do to it is install the off road kit to the carb and I’ll be golden.
@@armygreenfj3924 nice! That’s awesome to hear. I just have the recipe. You baked the cake! Nice work! Makes them soooo much more fun to drive when the carburetor and timing is right.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’ve always been back and forth with installing aftermarket efi on my k5 but I’m always worried about all the efi problems people have with them. I just feel like I’m more familiar with the carburetor more now since watching your videos. I feel confident if I ever break down on my k5 I feel confident I’ll get back home with the carburetor engine.
@@armygreenfj3924 much like carburetors, aftermarket efi problems are more user generated than anything else. Somewhere down the road we’ll do a self learning efi install and cover all the problem areas and how to avoid them. One of these days when I get some free time! 😆👍
Great stuff! It's good to stress the fundamentals. You always fight yourself when you don't set a good baseline. I'm really digging the subject matter for your vids. Keep it up!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I am getting a new 650 AVS2 again. This is for the 85 silverado K20. have you done a video for setting up timing correctly? Thanks
Can you explain why you are doubling the springs ratings (2x8") to 16 inches of vacuum for the fuel enrichment circuit? I've got the same carb with 8 inch, plain springs and they start to lift the needle out of the seat at close to 8 inches of vacuum. Thanks
Great information. I noticed your fuel line setup by the carb inlet from regulator and was wondering what size an fittings and hose you were using?🤔 I'd really like to set mine the same.
@@MuscleCarSolutions oh! Thank you. I just didn't know how to upgrade the leaky spectrum line. You give great information and because of it I'm that much closer to my project running correctly. 🏁🏁🏁
Wound up opening a can of worms by trying to add a regulator to my Ford 289 with the stock mechanical fuel pump. Hard to find a good spot for it, and seemed to induce cavitation. Seems the pump is happy putting out 5.5-6 psi at idle, so...guess I'll stick with that for now?
@@etmccaus not sure I’m following. The regulator is just a valve that changes the amount of flow. What makes you think it’s causing cavitation and how are you determining that? Where did you mount it?
Just watched (and took notes) on this fantastic video! I just have a couple of questions. My Duster is not stock, it is pushing around 400 hp., would I still set-up the vacuum gauge to the intake vacuum port as you did in the video, or is there another way? Also, I didn't quite grasp what determines a step-up spring change on the initial set-up? I can't tell you how much I am learning by watching your videos. Thanks for all you do you are an amazing instructor!
@@richardlabell6505 I always start with the ported vacuum unless the cam has a very aggressive profile. If you’re guessing it’s around 400 hp, then start on ported first and tune. Step up springs are determined initially by idle vacuum. I did a good video on how to set up initially and what would cause changes ones you’re in the tuning process.
My 1406 choke plate is fully closed and won't seem to engage at all. 12v is verified. The only way to get the choke to have the required opening is to rotate the cap CCW until it is at least a half inch past the scale. It's brand new, only run long enough to break in the engine. Any thoughts? Love the videos, very informative and no fluff!
@@PACBrian it’s common. Just trying to find ways of recalibrating folks thinking when it comes to tuning the engines fuel and spark systems to produce the best outcome.
Nice information about how to initially set up a carburetor from out of the box. Just curious which blueprint engine do u have ? I have the 350 390 hp one sitting on my engine stand just waiting for the extra time to put it in the car. Any helpful hints on them ?
There was no discussion for the choosing a spring. There are so many variables such as manifold vacuum and cam choice. What about reading the plugs to know if the choice is correct? How do you verify that the initial choices like jet size and spring choice is an improvement or going in the wrong direction?
@@jimdrechsel3611 I’ve done close to a hundred videos on these functions. It’s impossible to put them all in one video. If you need to know something specific, check out my Edelbrock carb playlist. The answers are there!
@ what’s your first thought about when you try to adjust the idle mixture screws there is no reaction? Even completely closed. The throttle plates are not on the idle circuit? Thanks for the reply
@ generally it’s one of two things. Too much transfer slot exposed or a vacuum leak. And not to belabor the point, but I have a couple videos in that topic. Once you watch a couple of my videos, I think it will become clearer how I present those topics. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for brilliant videos! Really help me in trying to understand carburettors! Why did you have such a variation in the vacuum in the beginning? I’m experiencing the same…. Thought it might have to do with the cam? But yours looked pretty stable later on… Greetings from Sweden!/Paul
@@paullundgren6319 glad they have been helpful! I’m still chasing it down but it acts like a vacuum leak. Which generally means, it’s a vacuum leak! I think I found it but haven’t had the opportunity to work on it again. Will know soon! Potentially adding more fuel at idle helped mask it, but we’ll have to see as I start tuning. More soon!
Thanks a lot! I’ll keep watching! And look for vacuum leaks… Just recieved my regulator, per your recommendation, that I need to get on as well (though I wouldn’t think that has to do with the vacuum variation).
I really appreciate your content! I wanted to reach out and see if you had any initial setup recommendations for my project. Mainly needle, jet and spring choices. I am concerned that the carburetor may be undersized. I am looking for a well balanced street cruiser that will be mainly driven at an altitude of 1000ft. I know your input may be limited since all setups are different and will take some trial and error here are the specifics: Application: 1971 Suburban C10 Engine Type: Chevy Big-Block V-8 Displacement (cu in): 454 Bore x Stroke (in): 4.250 x 4.000 Camshaft Lift (in): .510 intake / .540 exhaust Camshaft Duration (@.050 in): 211° intake / 230° exhaust Cylinder Heads: Iron rectangular port; 118cc chambers Valve Size (in): 2.190 intake / 1.880 exhaust Compression Ratio: 8.75:1 Recommended Fuel: Premium Distributor: MSD Streetfire HEI Vac Advance: Manifold, limited @ 8°-11° Spark Plugs: NGK UR4 Ignition Timing: 14° initial 38° total at 2,500 rpm Maximum Recommended rpm: 5,500 Intake Manifold: Dual Plane Carburetor: AVS2 650 CFM #1906 Transmission: THM400 Rear Axle Ratio: 3.05 Idle: 750 RPM
It would be a total guess if I did. Start with the factory calibration and work from there. You might be a bit on the small size with that size carb. As long as you’re not trying to turn it 5500, and it’s just something you’ll cruise around, you can make the 650 work, but it will be limited.
Hey Brian I’m wondering why the vacuum ports on the Edelbrock are at the same level, on the Holley the manifold vacuum is at the bottom of the carburetor and the ported is at the top
@@DesertRatFabrication just how they draw it from the venturi. Two different style carburetors is all. The ported side on the edelbrock is slightly higher and draws from above the throttle plate. The manifold port is slightly lower and draws below the plate and get full engine vacuum 100% of the time.
@@DesertRatFabrication a little shot of carb cleaner through the port and you can see where it comes out in the venturi. Ported will always be above the throttle plate. Thanks man!
@@DesertRatFabrication not sure why that’s gotten to be such a big controversy. There’s a reason why those two options are still available on universal carburetors. But arguing on the internet is a full time job for some folks!
Can I install the AVS2 carb on a stock SB 350 manifold? Currently running the old Rochester 2 jet on my 71 Chevelle. Also, currently running the snorkel air cleaner. Will that sit on top of the AVS2 or do I need to replace it with a non snorkel air filter hardware? Thanks for the content. Enjoy your channel. Your fuel system video was also very solid. You have me thinking about that as well.
@@AgavePiper not sure I’m following so I’ll assume I understand your question correctly. No the AVS2 four barrel carburetor won’t fit on a 2 barrel intake without an adapter. I believe trans dapt still makes one. Best to change the intake as well. No the stock 2 barrel air cleaner will not work. The next on the carburetor is much larger than the two barrel. You could likely find a stock four barrel air cleaner if you like that look, but I believe it might need a spacer. Unsure without seeing the stock intake you find.
Hey Brian, based on what the vacuum was and idle was doing how did you know you needed to step up the step-up springs, and when the engine was running if you would have opened up the step-up spring cover and throttled it up a little what would the springs do that were in there, i know you said before if the right springs are in there they should be pulled down until giving throttle then they would pull up, this video was much easier to follow once you understand the mixture screw video, couple side notes, you explained the manifold and ported vacuum on this video real good, and i guess i have been lucky the way my Edelbrock has ran on both engines, but probably not running as good as it can on the new engine without some adjustments, i will be going over to the 55 this week i have had a new holley fuel pump(which i may not need) but i have a pressure regulator, and pressure gauge i will be adding them when i get there , and i will be double checking TDC with a piston stop, the builder said it is set up at TDC at 0 degrees on the timing chain cover and currently im at 15 degrees BTDC but my degree light wasn't working, but i have a new light now, do you think i should pull the carb and look at the slots, oh yeah and your new motor looks amazing and sounds good too, i know i rambled on but hope you can answer my questions, thanks buddy😁😁
@@DesertRatFabrication these videos are going to get a bit more consolidated on info as it will piggyback on older content I made first to support these videos. Step up springs in a great example. I could have put all that info in this video as well, but wanted to do it first as it’s own separate video so when someone got to this point, that topic had been covered. I can do a two hour video and include it all, but felt it would be better to break it down. Same with the differences in ported and timed vacuum. How to set idle mixture adjustment. Transfer slot basics. All had their own video to now support these tuning videos I have coming. A lot to cover! I generally set the transfer slots as closed or very slightly exposed on an Edelbrock.
@@DesertRatFabrication not sure. The bracket I think is on of those cheap Mr Gasket ones. I bought a lot of them years ago. Springs not sure either but I’m sure it’s something you can get at summit or maybe even at an O’Reillys.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks... actually, I'm reading 17 to 18. it idling good but I'm wondering if increasing the vacuum reading will be profitable or not really.
@@skwermotors increasing the vacuum at idle is a good thing, but rarely do I set it for the max number. This GMC truck is a good example. I got it up to 21 but settled on 19. Timing is a big part of that to and I’m now at 14 BTDC. Starts easy and idles good.
@@MuscleCarSolutions great, thank you. And i would like to say that you're right "Timing is crucial". i was dealing with my carb, unable to use set mixture screw properly, vacuum was very low; idle very bad...i finally check my distributor and discover that my Advance Weight were stuck, and a bit rusty. After a quick clean (WD40) carb is now very happy!
Always went backwards ported vacuum for big cammed engines and manifold if possible on stock engines especially if they’re older and more tired/worn. Using ported on hotter cammed engines allows easier starting when hot running much higher initial timing without having to recurve and re-arrange the distributor to have low initial and more adding to meet total. Now a lot of stock stuff if not majority came with port only. As the carb had only ported then that’s what it runs no matter. In the end it makes no difference in power where you set vacuum it all depends on if you want it at idle and closed throttle deceleration. Anything above closed throttle is no different.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Soon. I was checking things out and noticed my fuel pressure transducer must have a hairline crack in the unit as the connector had a little puddle of fuel in it, so I had to order a new sensor. This time I went with LowDollar MotorSports. This one is .5% vs 2% accuracy full range, so will be a bit nicer. Now I need USPS to deliver...
@@MuscleCarSolutions with the 305 HO heads on the El Camino’s stock 350 I am running 14-15 deg of advance of initial timing. Any more and it pings at high RPM, much less and it is a slug.
@@Foxcanfixit I’m near sea level and generally start at 12-14. Always a good starting point. Guess those new heads helped with enough CR to need a little more timing. Nice!
Modern fuel is better at preventing detonation. more to an extent means a fuller burn which means more power, so the fuel needing more timing is a good thing.
@@BadfighterPilot Any benefit that ethanol might give, is mitigated by the contamination it attracts. If it were more controlled, it might have that ability.
Nah thus isn't how ya do it, blokes got no idea... Ya gotta buy a 2nd hand one first, rebuild it bolt it on and wind it over for a month before concluding its the wrong size. Then go buy a new one and have the same problems as the rebuilt one. Then give up and take it to a carby shop. I've been doing it for years tried and true method 👌
Gotta admit, I used to hate carbs in my younger years as efi was so easy however, today i’ve carbs on everything. The tinkering and fine tuning is what makes this hobby enjoyable ❤
@@academaciated7466 if you’re tuning efi, carbs will be pretty easy to understand! But yeah mechanically they’re a little more complicated depending on what you work on. Glad you’re enjoying working on them!
Great advice on having a fire extinguisher handy, looking forward to more tuning videos
@@johnweaver8470 I guess I learned a few things the older I got! 😆 Thank you sir! More on the way.
So right now im in the deepeths of tuning my Triple DCOE carbs on my Datsun 260Z. I work at a drag strip so im drag racing it and I'm actually going to bracket race in less than 2 weeks for No Name Nationals. Iv had the carbs on the car since winter but now im actually driving on the highway and made 5 passes down the track this Saturday. Your channel is always an amazing sanity check/ reference/ problem solver.
@@SeanOBryanZZ glad it’s been helpful. Enjoy your race!
This is perfect timing!!! I have the same carb showing up tomorrow morning. Great time for this video, and the next one.
@@Brent_Rolston nice!
You helped me so much on tuning my avs2. I got my timing right, my fuel regulator set at 5.5psi. I got my tuning kit and installed a AFR gauge. My K5 runs amazing. Only thing I need to do to it is install the off road kit to the carb and I’ll be golden.
@@armygreenfj3924 nice! That’s awesome to hear. I just have the recipe. You baked the cake! Nice work! Makes them soooo much more fun to drive when the carburetor and timing is right.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’ve always been back and forth with installing aftermarket efi on my k5 but I’m always worried about all the efi problems people have with them. I just feel like I’m more familiar with the carburetor more now since watching your videos. I feel confident if I ever break down on my k5 I feel confident I’ll get back home with the carburetor engine.
@@armygreenfj3924 much like carburetors, aftermarket efi problems are more user generated than anything else. Somewhere down the road we’ll do a self learning efi install and cover all the problem areas and how to avoid them. One of these days when I get some free time! 😆👍
@@MuscleCarSolutions that would be awesome!
Great stuff! It's good to stress the fundamentals. You always fight yourself when you don't set a good baseline. I'm really digging the subject matter for your vids. Keep it up!
@@hutchhiperf glad it’s been beneficial.
Always the best videos for learning. Thanks man!!
@@hybridmusclegarage4590 thank you sir!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I am getting a new 650 AVS2 again. This is for the 85 silverado K20. have you done a video for setting up timing correctly? Thanks
Thank you so much. Can't wait to get the same on mine. I need to find that regulator too lol
@@JamesAutoDude I think I linked it in the description. It’s an inexpensive one.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I see it now. Idk why I didn't look 😅 thank you!
Great content... waiting for more content and thanks...🔧🔧👍
@@SeanJoseph-s2s more soon!
Can you explain why you are doubling the springs ratings (2x8") to 16 inches of vacuum for the fuel enrichment circuit? I've got the same carb with 8 inch, plain springs and they start to lift the needle out of the seat at close to 8 inches of vacuum. Thanks
Great information. I noticed your fuel line setup by the carb inlet from regulator and was wondering what size an fittings and hose you were using?🤔 I'd really like to set mine the same.
@@steelcitycaprice.899 -6 hose and fittings. Russell Twist Lok hose.
@@MuscleCarSolutions oh! Thank you. I just didn't know how to upgrade the leaky spectrum line. You give great information and because of it I'm that much closer to my project running correctly. 🏁🏁🏁
Wound up opening a can of worms by trying to add a regulator to my Ford 289 with the stock mechanical fuel pump. Hard to find a good spot for it, and seemed to induce cavitation. Seems the pump is happy putting out 5.5-6 psi at idle, so...guess I'll stick with that for now?
@@etmccaus not sure I’m following. The regulator is just a valve that changes the amount of flow. What makes you think it’s causing cavitation and how are you determining that? Where did you mount it?
Great lesson. 👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds thanks boss!
Great video as always.
@@tooljunkie6003 thank you sir!
Why do you have a spacer on the intake for this carburetor ?
@@RayFinchum simple. Heat soak.
Just watched (and took notes) on this fantastic video! I just have a couple of questions. My Duster is not stock, it is pushing around 400 hp., would I still set-up the vacuum gauge to the intake vacuum port as you did in the video, or is there another way? Also, I didn't quite grasp what determines a step-up spring change on the initial set-up? I can't tell you how much I am learning by watching your videos. Thanks for all you do you are an amazing instructor!
@@richardlabell6505 I always start with the ported vacuum unless the cam has a very aggressive profile. If you’re guessing it’s around 400 hp, then start on ported first and tune. Step up springs are determined initially by idle vacuum. I did a good video on how to set up initially and what would cause changes ones you’re in the tuning process.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you!
My 1406 choke plate is fully closed and won't seem to engage at all. 12v is verified. The only way to get the choke to have the required opening is to rotate the cap CCW until it is at least a half inch past the scale. It's brand new, only run long enough to break in the engine. Any thoughts? Love the videos, very informative and no fluff!
everyone thinks messing with the idle mixture screws is tuning glad you made that commnet
@@PACBrian it’s common. Just trying to find ways of recalibrating folks thinking when it comes to tuning the engines fuel and spark systems to produce the best outcome.
Do you tune duel quad set up on say 60s 289/327?
@@terrytully1486 yes I have. I’ve only done one video on dual quad set ups.
@ can you send the link? I’m working on a 65 mustang 289 gold motor regards Terry
@ th-cam.com/video/OYylACoMd4M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xPoXHzZ681C21PJ-
Another great video I need to get a new timing light
@@andrewforster4974 it’s one of those must have tools for me. Fuel and spark are tuned together! Thanks man! 👍🇨🇦
As soon as my truck is back on the road lol
Manifold or ported vacuum for advance
Nice information about how to initially set up a carburetor from out of the box. Just curious which blueprint engine do u have ? I have the 350 390 hp one sitting on my engine stand just waiting for the extra time to put it in the car. Any helpful hints on them ?
@@markbryant3664 this was right out of the box and on to the engine. It’s a brand new carburetor!
There was no discussion for the choosing a spring. There are so many variables such as manifold vacuum and cam choice. What about reading the plugs to know if the choice is correct? How do you verify that the initial choices like jet size and spring choice is an improvement or going in the wrong direction?
@@jimdrechsel3611 I’ve done close to a hundred videos on these functions. It’s impossible to put them all in one video. If you need to know something specific, check out my Edelbrock carb playlist. The answers are there!
@ what’s your first thought about when you try to adjust the idle mixture screws there is no reaction? Even completely closed. The throttle plates are not on the idle circuit? Thanks for the reply
@ generally it’s one of two things. Too much transfer slot exposed or a vacuum leak. And not to belabor the point, but I have a couple videos in that topic. Once you watch a couple of my videos, I think it will become clearer how I present those topics. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for brilliant videos! Really help me in trying to understand carburettors! Why did you have such a variation in the vacuum in the beginning? I’m experiencing the same…. Thought it might have to do with the cam? But yours looked pretty stable later on… Greetings from Sweden!/Paul
@@paullundgren6319 glad they have been helpful! I’m still chasing it down but it acts like a vacuum leak. Which generally means, it’s a vacuum leak! I think I found it but haven’t had the opportunity to work on it again. Will know soon! Potentially adding more fuel at idle helped mask it, but we’ll have to see as I start tuning. More soon!
Thanks a lot! I’ll keep watching! And look for vacuum leaks… Just recieved my regulator, per your recommendation, that I need to get on as well (though I wouldn’t think that has to do with the vacuum variation).
I really appreciate your content! I wanted to reach out and see if you had any initial setup recommendations for my project. Mainly needle, jet and spring choices. I am concerned that the carburetor may be undersized. I am looking for a well balanced street cruiser that will be mainly driven at an altitude of 1000ft. I know your input may be limited since all setups are different and will take some trial and error here are the specifics:
Application: 1971 Suburban C10
Engine Type: Chevy Big-Block V-8
Displacement (cu in): 454
Bore x Stroke (in): 4.250 x 4.000
Camshaft Lift (in): .510 intake / .540 exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@.050 in): 211° intake / 230° exhaust
Cylinder Heads: Iron rectangular port; 118cc chambers
Valve Size (in): 2.190 intake / 1.880 exhaust
Compression Ratio: 8.75:1
Recommended Fuel: Premium
Distributor: MSD Streetfire HEI
Vac Advance: Manifold, limited @ 8°-11°
Spark Plugs: NGK UR4
Ignition Timing: 14° initial 38° total at 2,500 rpm
Maximum Recommended rpm: 5,500
Intake Manifold: Dual Plane
Carburetor: AVS2 650 CFM #1906
Transmission: THM400
Rear Axle Ratio: 3.05
Idle: 750 RPM
It would be a total guess if I did. Start with the factory calibration and work from there. You might be a bit on the small size with that size carb. As long as you’re not trying to turn it 5500, and it’s just something you’ll cruise around, you can make the 650 work, but it will be limited.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I really appreciate your time! Looking forward to your future videos
Hey Brian I’m wondering why the vacuum ports on the Edelbrock are at the same level, on the Holley the manifold vacuum is at the bottom of the carburetor and the ported is at the top
@@DesertRatFabrication just how they draw it from the venturi. Two different style carburetors is all. The ported side on the edelbrock is slightly higher and draws from above the throttle plate. The manifold port is slightly lower and draws below the plate and get full engine vacuum 100% of the time.
@@MuscleCarSolutions oh ok , thanks buddy
@@DesertRatFabrication a little shot of carb cleaner through the port and you can see where it comes out in the venturi. Ported will always be above the throttle plate. Thanks man!
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes I always run my vacuum advance to ported, the good old controversy ported or manifold, lol
@@DesertRatFabrication not sure why that’s gotten to be such a big controversy. There’s a reason why those two options are still available on universal carburetors. But arguing on the internet is a full time job for some folks!
Can I install the AVS2 carb on a stock SB 350 manifold? Currently running the old Rochester 2 jet on my 71 Chevelle. Also, currently running the snorkel air cleaner. Will that sit on top of the AVS2 or do I need to replace it with a non snorkel air filter hardware? Thanks for the content. Enjoy your channel. Your fuel system video was also very solid. You have me thinking about that as well.
@@AgavePiper not sure I’m following so I’ll assume I understand your question correctly. No the AVS2 four barrel carburetor won’t fit on a 2 barrel intake without an adapter. I believe trans dapt still makes one. Best to change the intake as well. No the stock 2 barrel air cleaner will not work. The next on the carburetor is much larger than the two barrel. You could likely find a stock four barrel air cleaner if you like that look, but I believe it might need a spacer. Unsure without seeing the stock intake you find.
Hey Brian, based on what the vacuum was and idle was doing how did you know you needed to step up the step-up springs, and when the engine was running if you would have opened up the step-up spring cover and throttled it up a little what would the springs do that were in there, i know you said before if the right springs are in there they should be pulled down until giving throttle then they would pull up, this video was much easier to follow once you understand the mixture screw video, couple side notes, you explained the manifold and ported vacuum on this video real good, and i guess i have been lucky the way my Edelbrock has ran on both engines, but probably not running as good as it can on the new engine without some adjustments, i will be going over to the 55 this week i have had a new holley fuel pump(which i may not need) but i have a pressure regulator, and pressure gauge i will be adding them when i get there , and i will be double checking TDC with a piston stop, the builder said it is set up at TDC at 0 degrees on the timing chain cover and currently im at 15 degrees BTDC but my degree light wasn't working, but i have a new light now, do you think i should pull the carb and look at the slots, oh yeah and your new motor looks amazing and sounds good too, i know i rambled on but hope you can answer my questions, thanks buddy😁😁
@@DesertRatFabrication these videos are going to get a bit more consolidated on info as it will piggyback on older content I made first to support these videos. Step up springs in a great example. I could have put all that info in this video as well, but wanted to do it first as it’s own separate video so when someone got to this point, that topic had been covered. I can do a two hour video and include it all, but felt it would be better to break it down. Same with the differences in ported and timed vacuum. How to set idle mixture adjustment. Transfer slot basics. All had their own video to now support these tuning videos I have coming. A lot to cover! I generally set the transfer slots as closed or very slightly exposed on an Edelbrock.
@@MuscleCarSolutions where did you get the return spring for the carburetor
@@DesertRatFabrication not sure. The bracket I think is on of those cheap Mr Gasket ones. I bought a lot of them years ago. Springs not sure either but I’m sure it’s something you can get at summit or maybe even at an O’Reillys.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks buddy I ordered both from Summit
@@DesertRatFabrication nice! That bracket has been around for a couple decades. Always seems to be perfect!
Might be stupid question (english is not my first language) but what makes your decision to change the springs?
@@skwermotors your idle engine vacuum reading.
@@skwermotors and no! It wasn’t a stupid question!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks... actually, I'm reading 17 to 18. it idling good but I'm wondering if increasing the vacuum reading will be profitable or not really.
@@skwermotors increasing the vacuum at idle is a good thing, but rarely do I set it for the max number. This GMC truck is a good example. I got it up to 21 but settled on 19. Timing is a big part of that to and I’m now at 14 BTDC. Starts easy and idles good.
@@MuscleCarSolutions great, thank you. And i would like to say that you're right "Timing is crucial". i was dealing with my carb, unable to use set mixture screw properly, vacuum was very low; idle very bad...i finally check my distributor and discover that my Advance Weight were stuck, and a bit rusty. After a quick clean (WD40) carb is now very happy!
How’s the blueprint engine working for you?
@@armygreenfj3924 excellent. Very happy with the quality. Runs strong, great vacuum.
Awesome thank you!!
@@RandallSoong-pp7ih thank you!!
Always went backwards ported vacuum for big cammed engines and manifold if possible on stock engines especially if they’re older and more tired/worn. Using ported on hotter cammed engines allows easier starting when hot running much higher initial timing without having to recurve and re-arrange the distributor to have low initial and more adding to meet total. Now a lot of stock stuff if not majority came with port only. As the carb had only ported then that’s what it runs no matter. In the end it makes no difference in power where you set vacuum it all depends on if you want it at idle and closed throttle deceleration. Anything above closed throttle is no different.
Suggestion when you make that tuning video you think you can add how to curve the distributor video?😂
@@timothycorya1536 for sure I’ll be doing a specific video on ignition set up in general. Coming soon! Maybe…
Great video. Thank you!!
Waiting on your next one with the AVS and your data logger!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Soon. I was checking things out and noticed my fuel pressure transducer must have a hairline crack in the unit as the connector had a little puddle of fuel in it, so I had to order a new sensor. This time I went with LowDollar MotorSports. This one is .5% vs 2% accuracy full range, so will be a bit nicer. Now I need USPS to deliver...
@@Scarlet_1971_cuda looking forward to the next video!
Exactly, 2-4 more degrees of advance will almost always make it run better.
@@Foxcanfixit for sure! Always one of the first questions I ask when helping answer questions.
@@MuscleCarSolutions with the 305 HO heads on the El Camino’s stock 350 I am running 14-15 deg of advance of initial timing. Any more and it pings at high RPM, much less and it is a slug.
@@Foxcanfixit I’m near sea level and generally start at 12-14. Always a good starting point. Guess those new heads helped with enough CR to need a little more timing. Nice!
@@MuscleCarSolutions it’s a HUGE difference between 2,000-4000RPMs. On the hwy acceleration from 50 to about 75 it’s a rocket compared to before
@@Foxcanfixit nice! So wintertime rebuild and a cam and intake to go with it? 👍😆
Adjusting a controlled fuel leak! 😂
@@landoncustomclassics it's so true lol
@@JamesAutoDude I have the VRS 4150 on my 68 Thunderbird
@@landoncustomclassics sorta!
Modern fuel is better at preventing detonation. more to an extent means a fuller burn which means more power, so the fuel needing more timing is a good thing.
@@BadfighterPilot Any benefit that ethanol might give, is mitigated by the contamination it attracts. If it were more controlled, it might have that ability.
100% 😎🏁
@@moparnut6286 👍
Lol..Fire extinguisher? Na I have alot of snow around me.
Nah thus isn't how ya do it, blokes got no idea... Ya gotta buy a 2nd hand one first, rebuild it bolt it on and wind it over for a month before concluding its the wrong size. Then go buy a new one and have the same problems as the rebuilt one. Then give up and take it to a carby shop. I've been doing it for years tried and true method 👌
😂
All that OCD BS and your not running a filters on your valve covers?!?!?
@@bertmj23 huh?