Your channel deserves so much more attention. This is gold 👍🏼👍🏼 Thank you so much for this ! 🙏🏼 this will come in hand when I get to tune my 351C as soon as my AFR gauge arrives.
This video was pure gold. I'll be back to reference this once I get my tuning kit. You're 100% on having an AFR gauge to give real time data. I installed one and I was able to see why my truck wasn't running right. My idle and cruise are great but it leans out under load (16-17) and under WOT it was steady at 13.5 which I believe is WAY too lean for a healthy big block Ford. I'm hoping a secondary Jet change and step up spring swap will put me in a better position. Again thank you for all the help!
13.5 can be very lean at WOT. The great thing about tuning with an AFR is it’s not just “seat of the pants” confirmation, but seeing what the exhaust is telling you. Hope your tuning continues to go well!
Thanks for the detailed jetting information. Edelbrock shows you how to access the jets in their video, but they don't take the time to explain how to tune the carb as well as you do.
Thanks. I’ve got some more on vehicle tuning videos planned this summer. Just need to find the time to get them done. Glad this video was helpful to you!
Nice! I’m glad you found it useful. I’ve done a few Edelbrock tuning videos. All the stuff folks asked for that they couldn’t find a video on. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. I try to respond to any tuning or tech questions. Thank you!
Thanks so much for making this video, trying to get my edelbrock tuned to my new engine setup and I’ve never tuned one of these before, only played with carbs on bikes. It seems a lot of knowledge like this is fading because a lot of guys who grew up around this stuff think “everybody knows this”. Well, unfortunately, that’s just not the case, at least not anymore. Thanks again!
For sure. I was lucky enough to grow up in a time where I had to learn from someone or make a ton of mistakes until I figured it out. With all the info online these days, I hope lots of this type of info gets passed along. I search for things all the time to learn new things! All good. Thank you! Glad the video has helped. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help where I can.
Another great tutorial. Under one of your other videos, mentioned that I'd be purchasing the #1480 kit, but found that was the wrong kit for my 1405 carb. Instead, will be purchasing the Performer Carburetor Calibration Kit #1479 for #1405 Carburetors. Hope I can squeeze more MPG out of my Big10. Cheers
If I could run a combo by you.. I live between SLC 4300ft to 7000ft in Park City. mostly driving in PC. Elevation ranges between 6300- 7000. If I run .095 jet and 1455 rod with 08 silver springs.. do you think that'll be a good combo to start with?@@MuscleCarSolutions
Great video. I recently installed an AFR guage on my Chevy C10 and I have been using the Edelbrock carb tuning kit. It's been really cool actually seeing how these jet kits work .
Once you have the basics down and start making calculated changes, it gets really easy to get the desired results. Having an AFR is the absolute best way to see the results!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I agree 100%.. I have always tuned carburetors by ear , and for the most part have been really successful. Now with the AFR guage, it's really interesting to see just how close my tuning is or wasn't lol. It's also cool to see just how much outside air temperatures (summer, winter, etc...) truly affect the carburetor tuning. Not to mention it's quite easy to install the AFR guage. (Just need a welder) From now on I will always run one on my Carborated cars. Edit ( THANKS AGAIN for another awesome video)
It’s not 100% necessary but it does help confirm what you think is happening. Really if your changes make it run better, that’s all that really matters in the end. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions. Always happy to help!
Ive learned so much from your videos thank you. Ive been wanting to fine tune my avs 2 using the calibration chart and would like to change out jets but my concern is would i need to replace the air horn gasket each time i open it up? Also is the gasket the same for all Edelbrock carbs if that makes any sense.
Doubtful. I rarely change them unless they have been on the car for a very long time. Yes, the rebuild kit and the airhorn gaskets are the same for the performer, thunder and AVS2 series carburetors. All good! Get to tuning!
Great video. Question. I'd like to get the maximum performance out of my Eddy 1406 Performer carb. I've made various changes with the primaries rods and jets and gotten pretty good results. Do you recommend doing the same with the secondary jets? Just curious if you have seen significant gains from changes with the secondary jets. Thanks.
Absolutely. Follow the simple chart to add fuel to the secondaries. You’ll continue to see good results. The 1406 was baselined with a combination that favors fuel economy. Tuning a 1406 always shows the most dramatic results when tuning for power.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have another Edelbrock Performer carb question for you that has always perplexed me. There are two rod & jet combinations on the 1406 and 1405 calibration reference chart that overlap. Those are #19 = #26 and #23 = #29 respectively. I am told the Performer 1406 and 1405 are basically the same carburetor with the only differences in design being the electric choke and the factory installed primaries rod & jet sizes. Do you know why then the Cruise Mode and Power Mode curves respond differently between the two carbs for the same rod & jet changes? You'll see that going from #19 calibration to #23 on the 1406 leans the cruise mode by about 1 step and the power mode by 1 1/2 steps. However on the 1405, making the same rod & jet changes (going from #26 to #29) you lean the cruise mode out by 1 step and the power mode by only about 2/3rds a step.
I tuned my carburetor and it definitely is performing better on the take off and alot less hesitant at low mph. I just changed the springs and rod thus far but and it's doing well. I don't want to change the Jets yet due to fuel consumption. But it's better...,thanks alot for your advice and guidance. SBC 350
The rods and jets work together. They are a matched set. If the chart calls for a rod and jet change, do that. You’re only hurting the process by creating your own recipe. Trust the chart.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes sir...I'll get into it that ASAP then. I just didn't want to take off the top of the carburetor to be honest. But if you say it's a must do then I will change out the Jets as well.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Sir...I have a question. I have a the Edelbrock 2696 spacer I thought I needed would you recommend me installing that as well. I just mounted my AVS2 directly to the intake which is an Edelbrock performer ESP INTAKE? THANK YOU.
@@bentroche6568 you don’t need that spreadbore adapter, but I’d you have room under hood, I would highly suggest running a wood laminate or phenolic spacer to block the heat. I have a video on how to fix heat soak in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist to give you more info.
Great presentation. I’ve got a crate SBC with a 750 performer carb and mani. Carb is at factory settings/rods/jets. Performance seems ok. I might do some stoplight racing here and there-nothing too intense. But I’m in the southwest at 5500 ft. Worthwhile getting the calibration kit for my purposes and situation?
100%. Ignition timing becomes even more cortical at higher elevation. I did a separate video on tuning in that situation. Get the calibration kit for sure. Make sure your fuel system is set up correctly (again another video I did). Having a regulator is an easily neglected part of the system. Get one and you’ll have another adjustment point in the system.
I have a 750 CFU on my 454 MerCruiser (Edelbrock 1410 + performer intake), which is a bit large, but I've leaned it out to stage 2 to date. It's running great, but the outer two plugs at the back, and a little in the front are carboned up. The centers are beautiful. I wonder if leaning out the secondaries would clean them up? Any thoughts on that? I'm going to check my manifold flow. Thanks.
It could, BUT, the corners always suffer on those types of intakes. Try as they may, no one has engineered the perfect manifold for this. EFI gets very close, but even on an open plenum, port style injection, the corners still suffer a little. Black is ok. If it’s wet with fuel, that’s another story. You can try to go another step lean, but make sure to check those inside cylinders for a too lean condition. Always better to be a little fat than too lean.
You're doing a great job here with this channel - and (of course), I've got a question. Have a 500 Cadillac motor in a big 4-door 76 Cadillac - OE was an 850 CFM Quadrajet. There came a time when I had to choose between having the "correct" carburetor and having something that I could maintain myself. The QJ was (and remains) a nightmare - so it's in a box for safe keeping ( it's original to the car ). Anyway - I put an 800 CFM Edelbrock Performer EPS on there about 8 years ago. It worked right out of the box with only the adjustment of the idle mixture screws. Obviously - there's more to getting it "right" than that. But at least the car was driveable / enjoyable. Fast forward to today, car has Sanderson headers, dual exhaust, etc - I am finishing up rebuilding the motor - Keith Black 9:1 aluminum flat top pistons / snotty Comp Cams bump stick with a little over 0.500 lift intake and exhaust - makes power between 2000 and 4,800 RPM / stiffer springs and valvetrain toys (Stage 1 kit from FlashCraft / Cad-Co). Adding an AFR gauge for giggles and running stock GM HEI Distributor with a hotter coil. ... all of that being said - should I start the tuning process with the "stock" guts in the 800 Performer, or are there some suggestions as to what jets / rods to pop in from the jump - so that I'm starting closer to where I need to be than starting fully from scratch ? Also - when does secondary metering jet adjustment come into play ? Am I correct in assuming that once you've got timing / fuel pressure / idle vaccuum / idle speed / part throttle response good / cruise behavior good and AFR reading good / and even WOT transition good - if at that point after all that you've still got a high AFR reading ( lean ) during WOT pulls, then you fatten up the secondary mixture jets ???
You’ve got a big advantage here that most either decide not to be use of cost or just don’t think they need it - AFR gauge. You can start the tuning with the stock calibration. Likely the 800 was a bit much for that engine when it was stock. That’s a low rpm engine and they don’t demand a lot of CFM to support it. It’s probably better now with all your upgrades. Follow the tuning chart and base your moves off the AFR and how it drives. You’re looking at a steady cruise around 13.5-14.0. You’ll know what end of that range the engine likes based on drivability and how much timing you have in it. Start from the base calibration. You’re not going to save any time by guessing on a calibration. Plus if this is your first time working with the tuning chart and calibrating the carb, it’s worth your time to learn as you go. As far as the secondary metering goes, the benefits of your AFR come into play here too. Even with your upgrades that big old rotating assembly and valvetrain won’t see past 5000. When you go WOT and you see a dip that’s too lean, you can also look at the secondary jets to help cure it. That’s the beauty of that AFR. You’ll know instantly if you’ve got it right or you need to add (or subtract) fuel.
@@MuscleCarSolutions finally got it finished - secondary jets = 1425 ( 3 stages lean ), primaries also 3 stages lean ( 120-407 jet and 68-47 rod ), pink (7 inches / 14 inches) metering spring ( i've got 20 inches of vacuum at idle, but the pink feels better than the silver when driving ), and the accelerator pump (linkage ratio/shot size) was moved to the #2 (middle) hole on the arm / linkage. idles at 14.5 AFR at 1,300 RPM (in park) or 1,050 (in drive with foot in brake) / part throttle cruise at 13.0 to 14.25 depending on the grade of the road or how hard my foot is in it / and WOT is between 12.0 and 12.75 depending on road conditions. I used the Edelbrock 1480 tuning kit for the 1413 800 CFM carb, but also had to order 1425 / 1426 / and 1427 secondary jets because while they include the part numbers of the alternative secondaries in the kit instructions, they don't actually include any secondary jets. No big deal. After talking to some Cad-savvy folks, they feedback I got was that the original Q-Jet flowed about 800-820 CFM, and while the motor may never actually use all of that, it's more of understanding that the amount of flow you'll get out of an 800 CFM carb with any given vaccuum signal will be more than you'll get out of a 600 CFM with the same vaccuum signal. Kind of like saying "hey I'm going to run 10 awg wire between my house and the post light that's 300 feet away in my back yard - not because the light is going to pull 30 amps, heck it won't pull 5 amps, but I want to keep the voltage drop low over that long of a distance". Anyway - in such a scenario, I had to lean the carb out quite a bit to achieve the behavior I was looking for, but I'm really happy with how it turned out - thanks for all the great info on @musclecarsolutions !!! You're so good at educating folks on mechanical things that even an electrical guy can learn !!!
If these are turned for economy, is that at sea level? I might be in a power setting at high altitude already? I imagine there is a power loss due to the altitude compared to sea level but seems to run fine at 10,000 feet and sea level. I'm not hunting for every hp at every altitude, but out of the box for a street truck my 1406 does fine.
Potentially yes but there are so many other factors at play. Engine specs leads the set of maybes. It’s entirety possible for sure. But not many of us drive at 10,000 feet. ;)
Question: I've got an early 68' Carter AVS, will the tuning kits #1480 work with the carburetor? I have heard that the step up rods are the main concern from the AFB 2 step rod design vs the AVS 3 step rod design. Thanks.
Chances are no, it won’t. Get some part numbers off it and start searching and see what you can come up with. I know some of their factory carters were very different internally based on how the OE tuned it for the application which lead to many different configurations of components. Sometimes you don’t have any options for tuning unless there were quite a few different engines they came on with different size rod, jet, spring combinations. But that means buying a lot of cores and scavenging what you can use from it.
Scotty from S&E auto repair, just put together an 81 malibu for a customer , it's a 350 vortec roller cam engine with GM mild street cam. Good vacuum, total mechanical advance 32 with manifold vacuum to dist. Car also set up with Tremic 5 speed. I perfect primary drivability, I changed step up spring, adjusted pump shot linkage to long stroke shot hole. Have slight bog when secondaries open, I have air valve set tight as possible. Car has 3.73 gears. It does not bog when hitting it from 30mph or more, but if you stab it from the start she bogs. I have base timing at 15, any higher makes it fetch up starting. Probably needs about 2,3 degrees more total timing. Wondering if I should step up secondary jets 1 size. Idle vacuum is 18, fuel pressure is 5.5 I do not have a pressure regulator, did not see the need since pressure is what the manual calls for. Thanks for any help you can give❤
350, unknown cam size. What size carburetor? Which hole did you put the accelerator pump rod in? The hole closest to the pivot point or the one furthest? Assuming you’re down around sea level, 15 degrees of initial timing should be more than enough. I’d start with step up springs to see if you can correct the issue.
So with tuning a carb on boat, 3500-5500 rpm constantly. Would that be considered cruise or power mode?? Great video. Thank you for your time posting these. You cleared up alot of gray areas and questions i had beforehand.
The issue with a boat is always is that rpm and load enough to put the secondaries into full operation. If the answer is yes, then treat it as the power mode. Boats a generally a little more tricky on the tuning side, but the chart is your best friend. Thanks!
Hey hello hows it going ? Qeastion for ya I have stock 350 chevy EPS intake an 600 cfm edledbrock carb everthing is set right idles great smooth. 20 hg vac but it seems to smell very rich at idle. Any reccomedations? Thanks Bob plain springs stock jets and needles.
Well something isn’t set right if you’re experiencing a rich condition. Start with the basics. What is your fuel pressure set at? What is your timing set at? I’d pull a few plugs. Smell like fuel?
@@MuscleCarSolutions timing at 12 degrees plenty power. U might be right on fuel pressure. I don't have regulator. Fuel pump is rated at 6 psi. I will definetly let you know. Im waiting for inline fitting so i can put gauge and see. Thanks
Greetings First of all, great info👍 I am working on a ‘67 bronco with a 64 1/2 289 w/ mild cam upgrade, Doug Thorley headers. I opened up the exhaust ports a little bit on the heads; w/ an Edelbrock 289 performer intake manifold. It currently has an Edelbrock performer manual choke 600 CFM carburetor. Is that carburetor overkill and too much for that engine? and should I switch to something smaller- 500 CFM EB? Also, I am at higher altitude (8700’) I did the calibration per the formula- 2% at every 1500 feet= 12% lean. White circle 27 on the Edelbrock 1405 carburetor calibration chart. I have the jet and meter rods part numbers; I have yet to buy them. These parts are not in the calibration kit & I’d have to buy them separately 1423 1426 and 1446. Away - so should I work on with what I have -the 600 CFM or start off with a 500 CFM carburetor? Thank you
Depending on how you’re going to drive it and given all the other details you provided, I would have gone with a 500. Will be easier to tune and the drivability will be much more fun all while not being way too rich.
Not gonna do any extreme street or off roading, just general driving. I’ll probably pick up a 500 CFM and start from there; probably a better fit for that size motor. Thx
So, LOVE the video. I'm tuning an AVS 1906 carb(Brand New) on a 355 chevy, 205 cast heads, flat top pistons, 10.5 compression, Lunatti cam....480 lift, 282 duration, 1.6 rockers. 4.10 gears with an automatic trans. I just swapped in a Muncie 4speed. Now, I can't pull out without riding the clutch. In other words, just driving normally, not hammering it. It seems to want to stall when I go to pull out from a dead stop. If I rev it to about 1500rpm's, it will go, but you have to ride the clutch. Oh, timing is set correctly, slightly advanced. 110 octane fuel. Am I on the right track with tuning the carb?
Every carb needs to be tuned. There is never a carb that comes right out of the box that doesnt needs to be tuned. Yes! You're most definitely 100% for sure absolutely on the right track! Tune that sucker!
@@frescabigblock good deal! Make sure the fuel system is set up properly and make sure your ignition system is in good working order and ready to be adjusted along with the carb and you’ll have it dialed in soon!
That’s always a difficult answer because there is so much more than rides on what type of linkage set up and how much you’re willing to put up with. 😂 I did one video on dual four set ups and I think we covered some tuning strategies.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you I watched it. I do not run progressive. I was wondering should I go more towards lower left since I have two. Where if I had 1 carb I may move towards the upper right. 427 BBC 280 Duration cam 10to1 comp
@@brianvrota1 that’s always extremely difficult when you can’t or don’t run a progressive linkage. That’s a decent cam if the LSA is fairly tight. Usually helps with that type of set up. My advice is really very simple. Get an AFR! It’s really going to take a lot of the guess work out. You know you’ll need to start lean , but the AFR is going to show you where you need to make those changes and if the ones you did make were enough or heading in the right direction. Have patience! Lots of timing helps!
Stock swirl port heads, .040 rebuild, 8⁰ timing approx, 5.5 psi fuel. Ive checked for vac leaks but I didnt notice it until I increased operation temp via fan switch.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes I realize that. I am going to get a spring kit and test. My beat up vacuum gauge says 15". I am going to try a yellow or orange spring. Will the bouncing (mostly to the top of the bore at idle) cause an erratic rough idle?
@@honestabe7349 the bouncing isnt causing a rough idle, its a symptom of a rough idle. Get the full calibration kit if you havent already. It will come with all the different spring sizes, plus the rod/jets you'll need to tune that carburetor.
Now, when you're moving over and up to the right. There's the shaded areas that you say are not included in the tunup kit. How do we acquire the hardware needed if we WANTED to make that move to the Grey setup? I have that Same kit. So I'm with you. Just wanted to know how to get those jets, rod, and spring. ? Is their another set? Or would I need to get the part # and buy individually? Thank you. Great video, helped me out tremendously. Nevermind, you just explained it... 😂
I did thank you. I just posted as I was watching the video. Right after I posted you explain it. I have my tiny and fuel all set now. As you described when I am cruising at about 30 and I whack the throttle. It's a little sluggish like my seconddaries aren't Opening as it should. 1st classic car for me. 1963 buick skylark 3.5L V8. Stock. Except the Carb- 1901 AVS2. IF I HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS. I'LL REACH OUT TO YOU. Thanks for the information. GREAT VIDEO
At idle you’ll generally want to be around 13.5 - 14. 10 is way way way too rich. You might struggle with tuning on a small engine and a carburetor that’s technically too big for it. Take some fuel out. Lower the fuel pressure (flow) into the carb.
Holley 6194-2 Blue this is my fuel pump and tha line its new its a restauración i only switch on for few second and i smell like a crude gas maybe i need to try for more time but i Hear so good the sound
Did you change jets, rods or springs? Which are you using for street use. My setup is stock 1976 350 with performer manifold and 1906 carb. Mine starts and drives great, but doesn't want to rev past 3,500. Thanks.
Not being able to rev past 3500? What’s your timing set to? Initial and full? What ignition system are you running? Factory HEI or…? What’s the fuel pressure at the carb? How did you set the floats?
@@MuscleCarSolutions 12 before TDC. Accel HEI. Trying the stock distributor back tonight. Fuel pressure just under 7. Haven't touched floats. It's a brand new 1906 avs2.
@@MuscleCarSolutions It's driving me nuts. Starts and drive perfect, but at full throttle it hits 3500, then the tach bounces between 3500 and 4000. I think it's electrical, but it has new plugs, new wires and new distributor.
Can’t stress this enough….make sure your engine is at operating temperature…fully warmed up….before you start tinkering with it….or else you’ll never get it right.
Your channel deserves so much more attention. This is gold 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much for this ! 🙏🏼 this will come in hand when I get to tune my 351C as soon as my AFR gauge arrives.
This video was pure gold. I'll be back to reference this once I get my tuning kit. You're 100% on having an AFR gauge to give real time data. I installed one and I was able to see why my truck wasn't running right. My idle and cruise are great but it leans out under load (16-17) and under WOT it was steady at 13.5 which I believe is WAY too lean for a healthy big block Ford. I'm hoping a secondary Jet change and step up spring swap will put me in a better position. Again thank you for all the help!
13.5 can be very lean at WOT. The great thing about tuning with an AFR is it’s not just “seat of the pants” confirmation, but seeing what the exhaust is telling you. Hope your tuning continues to go well!
What afr do I want at wot
Depends. N/A engine? Nitrous? Boosted? Automobile or a boat?
Thanks for the detailed jetting information. Edelbrock shows you how to access the jets in their video, but they don't take the time to explain how to tune the carb as well as you do.
Thanks. I’ve got some more on vehicle tuning videos planned this summer. Just need to find the time to get them done. Glad this video was helpful to you!
Thank you so much for these videos ! I’m learning very slowly but learning none the less !
All good! I’m glad you’ve found them useful.
Exceptionally well done! Thanks so much, I've subscribed just because of the great quality of this video.
Nice! I’m glad you found it useful. I’ve done a few Edelbrock tuning videos. All the stuff folks asked for that they couldn’t find a video on. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. I try to respond to any tuning or tech questions. Thank you!
as did i. i got everything i needed to know. but are the jets in the kit for the primarys? Will i need to order a secondary jet kit
U r so right about writing things down and date and comments what happened! U will forget. Smart.
Too much other stuff rattling around in my head! Gotta write it down or I forget 3 minutes later! lol
Thanks so much for making this video, trying to get my edelbrock tuned to my new engine setup and I’ve never tuned one of these before, only played with carbs on bikes. It seems a lot of knowledge like this is fading because a lot of guys who grew up around this stuff think “everybody knows this”. Well, unfortunately, that’s just not the case, at least not anymore. Thanks again!
For sure. I was lucky enough to grow up in a time where I had to learn from someone or make a ton of mistakes until I figured it out. With all the info online these days, I hope lots of this type of info gets passed along. I search for things all the time to learn new things! All good. Thank you! Glad the video has helped. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help where I can.
Thanks for the input...,helps me out alot.
You are an awesome teacher. Very well explained
Glad you found it useful!
Another great tutorial. Under one of your other videos, mentioned that I'd be purchasing the #1480 kit, but found that was the wrong kit for my 1405 carb. Instead, will be purchasing the Performer Carburetor Calibration Kit #1479 for #1405 Carburetors. Hope I can squeeze more MPG out of my Big10. Cheers
Lots of great info, thanks for sharing man.
You’re very welcome!
Great video as always!!!!
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
Learning so much from your channel... ! Thank you for putting in the time.
That’s the one thing I wish I had a lot more of. Time! Thanks for stopping by!
If I could run a combo by you.. I live between SLC 4300ft to 7000ft in Park City. mostly driving in PC. Elevation ranges between 6300- 7000. If I run .095 jet and 1455 rod with 08 silver springs.. do you think that'll be a good combo to start with?@@MuscleCarSolutions
Great explainer, thanks.
Great video. I recently installed an AFR guage on my Chevy C10 and I have been using the Edelbrock carb tuning kit. It's been really cool actually seeing how these jet kits work .
Once you have the basics down and start making calculated changes, it gets really easy to get the desired results. Having an AFR is the absolute best way to see the results!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I agree 100%.. I have always tuned carburetors by ear , and for the most part have been really successful. Now with the AFR guage, it's really interesting to see just how close my tuning is or wasn't lol. It's also cool to see just how much outside air temperatures (summer, winter, etc...) truly affect the carburetor tuning.
Not to mention it's quite easy to install the AFR guage. (Just need a welder)
From now on I will always run one on my Carborated cars.
Edit ( THANKS AGAIN for another awesome video)
@@johnnyturbo8460 agreed! I won’t go with out one again. It’s an extremely useful tool. Thanks for the kind words!
@@MuscleCarSolutions 😁👍
MCS what spacer do you recommend for my 1406? 4 hole spacer or open? Thank you for the above info.
Good video, well explained 👍
Glad you found it useful!
That is a lot of info, thank you.
It deserves its own video for sure! Hope its useful for you.
Great video man
Appreciate that!
Thanks, that was really helpful. I don't have an AFR gauge currently, not sure that will get one. I will watch more of your channel now though.
It’s not 100% necessary but it does help confirm what you think is happening. Really if your changes make it run better, that’s all that really matters in the end. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions. Always happy to help!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks I may just do that.
Great video..
Anybody have a recommendation on AFR gauge and sensor?
Thanks for the great videos and information!
I have mine linked in the description of this video; th-cam.com/video/sCN3xXM0lzU/w-d-xo.html
Ive learned so much from your videos thank you. Ive been wanting to fine tune my avs 2 using the calibration chart and would like to change out jets but my concern is would i need to replace the air horn gasket each time i open it up? Also is the gasket the same for all Edelbrock carbs if that makes any sense.
Doubtful. I rarely change them unless they have been on the car for a very long time. Yes, the rebuild kit and the airhorn gaskets are the same for the performer, thunder and AVS2 series carburetors. All good! Get to tuning!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you again.
Great video. Question. I'd like to get the maximum performance out of my Eddy 1406 Performer carb. I've made various changes with the primaries rods and jets and gotten pretty good results. Do you recommend doing the same with the secondary jets? Just curious if you have seen significant gains from changes with the secondary jets. Thanks.
Absolutely. Follow the simple chart to add fuel to the secondaries. You’ll continue to see good results. The 1406 was baselined with a combination that favors fuel economy. Tuning a 1406 always shows the most dramatic results when tuning for power.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have another Edelbrock Performer carb question for you that has always perplexed me. There are two rod & jet combinations on the 1406 and 1405 calibration reference chart that overlap. Those are #19 = #26 and #23 = #29 respectively. I am told the Performer 1406 and 1405 are basically the same carburetor with the only differences in design being the electric choke and the factory installed primaries rod & jet sizes. Do you know why then the Cruise Mode and Power Mode curves respond differently between the two carbs for the same rod & jet changes? You'll see that going from #19 calibration to #23 on the 1406 leans the cruise mode by about 1 step and the power mode by 1 1/2 steps. However on the 1405, making the same rod & jet changes (going from #26 to #29) you lean the cruise mode out by 1 step and the power mode by only about 2/3rds a step.
Can you make a video better explaining the secondaries jet tuning?
I tuned my carburetor and it definitely is performing better on the take off and alot less hesitant at low mph. I just changed the springs and rod thus far but and it's doing well. I don't want to change the Jets yet due to fuel consumption.
But it's better...,thanks alot for your advice and guidance. SBC 350
The rods and jets work together. They are a matched set. If the chart calls for a rod and jet change, do that. You’re only hurting the process by creating your own recipe. Trust the chart.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes sir...I'll get into it that ASAP then. I just didn't want to take off the top of the carburetor to be honest. But if you say it's a must do then I will change out the Jets as well.
@@bentroche6568 absolutely. Your results will be better. Won’t take you much more effort and you’ll get quicker at it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Sir...I have a question. I have a the Edelbrock 2696 spacer I thought I needed would you recommend me installing that as well.
I just mounted my AVS2 directly to the intake which is an Edelbrock performer ESP INTAKE? THANK YOU.
@@bentroche6568 you don’t need that spreadbore adapter, but I’d you have room under hood, I would highly suggest running a wood laminate or phenolic spacer to block the heat. I have a video on how to fix heat soak in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist to give you more info.
Great presentation. I’ve got a crate SBC with a 750 performer carb and mani. Carb is at factory settings/rods/jets. Performance seems ok. I might do some stoplight racing here and there-nothing too intense. But I’m in the southwest at 5500 ft. Worthwhile getting the calibration kit for my purposes and situation?
100%. Ignition timing becomes even more cortical at higher elevation. I did a separate video on tuning in that situation. Get the calibration kit for sure. Make sure your fuel system is set up correctly (again another video I did). Having a regulator is an easily neglected part of the system. Get one and you’ll have another adjustment point in the system.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks so much. Will definitely watch your previous videos. I am really enjoying and learning a lot from your channel.
Don’t hesitate to ask any questions as you go. Always happy to help where I can. Good luck!
I have a 750 CFU on my 454 MerCruiser (Edelbrock 1410 + performer intake), which is a bit large, but I've leaned it out to stage 2 to date. It's running great, but the outer two plugs at the back, and a little in the front are carboned up. The centers are beautiful. I wonder if leaning out the secondaries would clean them up? Any thoughts on that? I'm going to check my manifold flow. Thanks.
It could, BUT, the corners always suffer on those types of intakes. Try as they may, no one has engineered the perfect manifold for this. EFI gets very close, but even on an open plenum, port style injection, the corners still suffer a little. Black is ok. If it’s wet with fuel, that’s another story. You can try to go another step lean, but make sure to check those inside cylinders for a too lean condition. Always better to be a little fat than too lean.
Goodday what is the # of jets on primaries and secondary on 1407 thankyou
Download the tuning chart. It will tell you.
You're doing a great job here with this channel - and (of course), I've got a question. Have a 500 Cadillac motor in a big 4-door 76 Cadillac - OE was an 850 CFM Quadrajet. There came a time when I had to choose between having the "correct" carburetor and having something that I could maintain myself. The QJ was (and remains) a nightmare - so it's in a box for safe keeping ( it's original to the car ). Anyway - I put an 800 CFM Edelbrock Performer EPS on there about 8 years ago. It worked right out of the box with only the adjustment of the idle mixture screws. Obviously - there's more to getting it "right" than that. But at least the car was driveable / enjoyable. Fast forward to today, car has Sanderson headers, dual exhaust, etc - I am finishing up rebuilding the motor - Keith Black 9:1 aluminum flat top pistons / snotty Comp Cams bump stick with a little over 0.500 lift intake and exhaust - makes power between 2000 and 4,800 RPM / stiffer springs and valvetrain toys (Stage 1 kit from FlashCraft / Cad-Co). Adding an AFR gauge for giggles and running stock GM HEI Distributor with a hotter coil. ... all of that being said - should I start the tuning process with the "stock" guts in the 800 Performer, or are there some suggestions as to what jets / rods to pop in from the jump - so that I'm starting closer to where I need to be than starting fully from scratch ? Also - when does secondary metering jet adjustment come into play ? Am I correct in assuming that once you've got timing / fuel pressure / idle vaccuum / idle speed / part throttle response good / cruise behavior good and AFR reading good / and even WOT transition good - if at that point after all that you've still got a high AFR reading ( lean ) during WOT pulls, then you fatten up the secondary mixture jets ???
You’ve got a big advantage here that most either decide not to be use of cost or just don’t think they need it - AFR gauge. You can start the tuning with the stock calibration. Likely the 800 was a bit much for that engine when it was stock. That’s a low rpm engine and they don’t demand a lot of CFM to support it. It’s probably better now with all your upgrades. Follow the tuning chart and base your moves off the AFR and how it drives. You’re looking at a steady cruise around 13.5-14.0. You’ll know what end of that range the engine likes based on drivability and how much timing you have in it. Start from the base calibration. You’re not going to save any time by guessing on a calibration. Plus if this is your first time working with the tuning chart and calibrating the carb, it’s worth your time to learn as you go. As far as the secondary metering goes, the benefits of your AFR come into play here too. Even with your upgrades that big old rotating assembly and valvetrain won’t see past 5000. When you go WOT and you see a dip that’s too lean, you can also look at the secondary jets to help cure it. That’s the beauty of that AFR. You’ll know instantly if you’ve got it right or you need to add (or subtract) fuel.
@@MuscleCarSolutions finally got it finished - secondary jets = 1425 ( 3 stages lean ), primaries also 3 stages lean ( 120-407 jet and 68-47 rod ), pink (7 inches / 14 inches) metering spring ( i've got 20 inches of vacuum at idle, but the pink feels better than the silver when driving ), and the accelerator pump (linkage ratio/shot size) was moved to the #2 (middle) hole on the arm / linkage. idles at 14.5 AFR at 1,300 RPM (in park) or 1,050 (in drive with foot in brake) / part throttle cruise at 13.0 to 14.25 depending on the grade of the road or how hard my foot is in it / and WOT is between 12.0 and 12.75 depending on road conditions. I used the Edelbrock 1480 tuning kit for the 1413 800 CFM carb, but also had to order 1425 / 1426 / and 1427 secondary jets because while they include the part numbers of the alternative secondaries in the kit instructions, they don't actually include any secondary jets. No big deal. After talking to some Cad-savvy folks, they feedback I got was that the original Q-Jet flowed about 800-820 CFM, and while the motor may never actually use all of that, it's more of understanding that the amount of flow you'll get out of an 800 CFM carb with any given vaccuum signal will be more than you'll get out of a 600 CFM with the same vaccuum signal. Kind of like saying "hey I'm going to run 10 awg wire between my house and the post light that's 300 feet away in my back yard - not because the light is going to pull 30 amps, heck it won't pull 5 amps, but I want to keep the voltage drop low over that long of a distance". Anyway - in such a scenario, I had to lean the carb out quite a bit to achieve the behavior I was looking for, but I'm really happy with how it turned out - thanks for all the great info on @musclecarsolutions !!! You're so good at educating folks on mechanical things that even an electrical guy can learn !!!
If these are turned for economy, is that at sea level? I might be in a power setting at high altitude already? I imagine there is a power loss due to the altitude compared to sea level but seems to run fine at 10,000 feet and sea level. I'm not hunting for every hp at every altitude, but out of the box for a street truck my 1406 does fine.
Potentially yes but there are so many other factors at play. Engine specs leads the set of maybes. It’s entirety possible for sure. But not many of us drive at 10,000 feet. ;)
Great !
Question: I've got an early 68' Carter AVS, will the tuning kits #1480 work with the carburetor? I have heard that the step up rods are the main concern from the AFB 2 step rod design vs the AVS 3 step rod design. Thanks.
Chances are no, it won’t. Get some part numbers off it and start searching and see what you can come up with. I know some of their factory carters were very different internally based on how the OE tuned it for the application which lead to many different configurations of components. Sometimes you don’t have any options for tuning unless there were quite a few different engines they came on with different size rod, jet, spring combinations. But that means buying a lot of cores and scavenging what you can use from it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Appreciate the response, I'll search around for old OE kits.
Scotty from S&E auto repair, just put together an 81 malibu for a customer , it's a 350 vortec roller cam engine with GM mild street cam. Good vacuum, total mechanical advance 32 with manifold vacuum to dist. Car also set up with Tremic 5 speed. I perfect primary drivability, I changed step up spring, adjusted pump shot linkage to long stroke shot hole. Have slight bog when secondaries open, I have air valve set tight as possible. Car has 3.73 gears. It does not bog when hitting it from 30mph or more, but if you stab it from the start she bogs. I have base timing at 15, any higher makes it fetch up starting. Probably needs about 2,3 degrees more total timing. Wondering if I should step up secondary jets 1 size. Idle vacuum is 18, fuel pressure is 5.5 I do not have a pressure regulator, did not see the need since pressure is what the manual calls for. Thanks for any help you can give❤
350, unknown cam size. What size carburetor? Which hole did you put the accelerator pump rod in? The hole closest to the pivot point or the one furthest? Assuming you’re down around sea level, 15 degrees of initial timing should be more than enough. I’d start with step up springs to see if you can correct the issue.
So with tuning a carb on boat, 3500-5500 rpm constantly. Would that be considered cruise or power mode?? Great video. Thank you for your time posting these. You cleared up alot of gray areas and questions i had beforehand.
The issue with a boat is always is that rpm and load enough to put the secondaries into full operation. If the answer is yes, then treat it as the power mode. Boats a generally a little more tricky on the tuning side, but the chart is your best friend. Thanks!
Do they make this chart for dual quads for can you use this chart with dual quads?
No they do not. You can use it as a guide, but as far as tuning a dual quad set up, you’re on your own.
Hey hello hows it going ? Qeastion for ya I have stock 350 chevy EPS intake an 600 cfm edledbrock carb everthing is set right idles great smooth. 20 hg vac but it seems to smell very rich at idle.
Any reccomedations? Thanks Bob plain springs stock jets and needles.
Well something isn’t set right if you’re experiencing a rich condition. Start with the basics. What is your fuel pressure set at? What is your timing set at? I’d pull a few plugs. Smell like fuel?
@@MuscleCarSolutions timing at 12 degrees plenty power. U might be right on fuel pressure. I don't have regulator. Fuel pump is rated at 6 psi. I will definetly let you know. Im waiting for inline fitting so i can put gauge and see. Thanks
Greetings
First of all, great info👍
I am working on a ‘67 bronco with a 64 1/2 289 w/ mild cam upgrade, Doug Thorley headers. I opened up the exhaust ports a little bit on the heads; w/ an Edelbrock 289 performer intake manifold.
It currently has an Edelbrock performer manual choke 600 CFM carburetor.
Is that carburetor overkill and too much for that engine? and should I switch to something smaller- 500 CFM EB?
Also, I am at higher altitude (8700’) I did the calibration per the formula- 2% at every 1500 feet= 12% lean.
White circle 27 on the Edelbrock 1405 carburetor calibration chart.
I have the jet and meter rods part numbers; I have yet to buy them.
These parts are not in the calibration kit & I’d have to buy them separately 1423 1426 and 1446.
Away - so should I work on with what I have -the 600 CFM or start off with a 500 CFM carburetor?
Thank you
Depending on how you’re going to drive it and given all the other details you provided, I would have gone with a 500. Will be easier to tune and the drivability will be much more fun all while not being way too rich.
Not gonna do any extreme street or off roading, just general driving.
I’ll probably pick up a 500 CFM and start from there; probably a better fit for that size motor.
Thx
So, LOVE the video. I'm tuning an AVS 1906 carb(Brand New) on a 355 chevy, 205 cast heads, flat top pistons, 10.5 compression, Lunatti cam....480 lift, 282 duration, 1.6 rockers. 4.10 gears with an automatic trans. I just swapped in a Muncie 4speed. Now, I can't pull out without riding the clutch. In other words, just driving normally, not hammering it. It seems to want to stall when I go to pull out from a dead stop. If I rev it to about 1500rpm's, it will go, but you have to ride the clutch. Oh, timing is set correctly, slightly advanced. 110 octane fuel. Am I on the right track with tuning the carb?
Every carb needs to be tuned. There is never a carb that comes right out of the box that doesnt needs to be tuned. Yes! You're most definitely 100% for sure absolutely on the right track! Tune that sucker!
I just ordered the kit, I will let you know how it goes when I get it. Thank you very much!
@@frescabigblock good deal! Make sure the fuel system is set up properly and make sure your ignition system is in good working order and ready to be adjusted along with the carb and you’ll have it dialed in soon!
Be sure the primary throttle blades are set properly in relation to the idle transfer slots.
How would you use the chart if you have dual quad tunnel ram? Thank you
That’s always a difficult answer because there is so much more than rides on what type of linkage set up and how much you’re willing to put up with. 😂 I did one video on dual four set ups and I think we covered some tuning strategies.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you I watched it. I do not run progressive. I was wondering should I go more towards lower left since I have two. Where if I had 1 carb I may move towards the upper right.
427 BBC 280 Duration cam 10to1 comp
@@brianvrota1 that’s always extremely difficult when you can’t or don’t run a progressive linkage. That’s a decent cam if the LSA is fairly tight. Usually helps with that type of set up. My advice is really very simple. Get an AFR! It’s really going to take a lot of the guess work out. You know you’ll need to start lean , but the AFR is going to show you where you need to make those changes and if the ones you did make were enough or heading in the right direction. Have patience! Lots of timing helps!
I think I uave detonation under load when its at temp. Plugs seem pretty lean so Im hoping to fatten it up and fix it.
Stock swirl port heads, .040 rebuild, 8⁰ timing approx, 5.5 psi fuel. Ive checked for vac leaks but I didnt notice it until I increased operation temp via fan switch.
If my metering rods and plungers are bouncing at idle because springs too heavy, will that cause me to have a poor idle quality and rich idle?
If they are bouncing at idle, it means the springs are too light. What’s your vacuum at idle and what spring are you using?
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes I realize that. I am going to get a spring kit and test. My beat up vacuum gauge says 15". I am going to try a yellow or orange spring. Will the bouncing (mostly to the top of the bore at idle) cause an erratic rough idle?
@@honestabe7349 the bouncing isnt causing a rough idle, its a symptom of a rough idle. Get the full calibration kit if you havent already. It will come with all the different spring sizes, plus the rod/jets you'll need to tune that carburetor.
Now, when you're moving over and up to the right. There's the shaded areas that you say are not included in the tunup kit. How do we acquire the hardware needed if we WANTED to make that move to the Grey setup? I have that Same kit. So I'm with you. Just wanted to know how to get those jets, rod, and spring. ? Is their another set? Or would I need to get the part # and buy individually? Thank you. Great video, helped me out tremendously.
Nevermind, you just explained it... 😂
You just took us in quite the emotional roller coaster there. 😂 Hope you got the info you needed! 😆👍
I did thank you. I just posted as I was watching the video. Right after I posted you explain it. I have my tiny and fuel all set now. As you described when I am cruising at about 30 and I whack the throttle. It's a little sluggish like my seconddaries aren't Opening as it should. 1st classic car for me. 1963 buick skylark 3.5L V8. Stock. Except the Carb- 1901 AVS2. IF I HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS. I'LL REACH OUT TO YOU. Thanks for the information. GREAT VIDEO
I do have a 02 sensor installed, At idol i'm at the high 10s, When I punch it, it goes up to 13 to 14 ???
At idle you’ll generally want to be around 13.5 - 14. 10 is way way way too rich. You might struggle with tuning on a small engine and a carburetor that’s technically too big for it. Take some fuel out. Lower the fuel pressure (flow) into the carb.
@@MuscleCarSolutions OK, thank you so much. I'm learning. This is all new to me. I greatly appreciate your time and experience.
What Can i need to do for the 1406 on mustang 1966 almost stock its ok 600 Cfm or what i need to do ?
First set your timing then buy a calibration kit and make sure your fuel system will properly support it.
Holley 6194-2 Blue this is my fuel pump and tha line its new its a restauración i only switch on for few second and i smell like a crude gas maybe i need to try for more time but i Hear so good the sound
If u can send me a whatsapp for a training about that 52 3310945432 if u can , that will be great because in méxico no one share nowledge
@@manuelmarquez6829 what is your fuel pressure regulated set to?
@@MuscleCarSolutions it a spectre performance but! Really i don’t know how calíbrate what psi i need ?
My 650cfm runs a bit rich on stock setting.Had to drop it two steps leaner for street use.
Every situation is different. That’s the nice thing about making the adjustments and dialing it in! Get a much better running and driving vehicle!
Did you change jets, rods or springs? Which are you using for street use. My setup is stock 1976 350 with performer manifold and 1906 carb. Mine starts and drives great, but doesn't want to rev past 3,500. Thanks.
Not being able to rev past 3500? What’s your timing set to? Initial and full? What ignition system are you running? Factory HEI or…? What’s the fuel pressure at the carb? How did you set the floats?
@@MuscleCarSolutions 12 before TDC. Accel HEI. Trying the stock distributor back tonight. Fuel pressure just under 7. Haven't touched floats. It's a brand new 1906 avs2.
@@MuscleCarSolutions It's driving me nuts. Starts and drive perfect, but at full throttle it hits 3500, then the tach bounces between 3500 and 4000. I think it's electrical, but it has new plugs, new wires and new distributor.
More on the step-up springs!
I have a video exclusively on step up springs and squirters in my Edelbrock Carb Tech series. Check it out!
The amount of people that cannot tune are alarming.
Most don’t. They just bolt on a carb and put up with how ever it is.
Can’t stress this enough….make sure your engine is at operating temperature…fully warmed up….before you start tinkering with it….or else you’ll never get it right.
I would hope it’s not necessary to state the obvious, but you’re correct.
@@MuscleCarSolutions it’s obvious to the well trained mechanics of the world, but to the newbie’s, not so much…😉
In hindsight, go with the fuel injection! You will be "tuning" these "carbs" FOREVER!
No way. I’ve had mine a week and it’s amazing! I’ve got tons of Power and great fuel economy! The fun is playing w it!
Playing with it gets u really good at it. Win win