i pulled a edlebrock carb off my engine replaced it with a holley and it came alive both where new carbs quadro jet is a way better carb plus u can drill it out easy to work on just u must reseat the fuel bowl on the lead plugs or if it leaks at all it will affect the secondaries. the edlebrock i feel is the worse carb and the cheapest carb on the market junk not worth the money . u do know u will get better performance out of a quadro jet then a edlebrock carb and u can drill it out to 1150 cmf's . i have a bunch of edlebrock carbs most i got from rigs that they put one on and when i get it, it comes off and goes in a pile
@@Ratridez i guess the dyno tune had no idea what it was doing but it worked good on a Quadro jet or a Holley it seem to gain hp with those carbs but could it be that it is the cheapest carb on the market plus i am a G.M. certified mechanic and ben building cars for over 45 years i think i know my carbs . y don't u see them on the drag strip mite because they suck. i will take a quadro jet against a eldlebrock any day of the week try using a quadro jet carb off a 454 which is a 600 or u can drill them out all the way up to a 1150 means u know so much about carbs
My solution I used for your “ugly” was getting the Edelbrock part# 8128. Remove the feed plug on the driver side of the Edelbrock carb and install the part# 8128 dual feed fuel line. It keeps both bowls equally full at all times. So it doesn’t matter if you make hard turns or go off roading like me, after I installed this dual fuel feed line those problems went away.
I did the same thing, my drive way has a hill that I have to drive around and it leans my truck to the left Which bogged it down. I tried a DP holley and it worked but I sat there for hours trying to get the dam thing to idle correctly and it was really rough when I finally found a sweet spot. My cam was already super choppy and it made it sound really disturbing so I took it off and just hooked another line to the avs2 and fixed everything, had to increase jetting but I haven't had a problem since then
I just asked why a "Y" could be centered to feed both sides and read your comment. Maybe even set the floats so both bowls hold more fuel. So I am not the only one with your thoughts; there is another similar comment about the same technique that cured the problem. Hey, and I bet we are all just carpenters who happen to see details and figure it out right. My solution for fuel sloshing around while "rock bouncing" is to extend the breather inlets. On a Motorcraft 2150 a peace of tubing can be rolled like a tubing from a still above the carb, but below the air cleaner lid with holes drilled on the top coil for breathing. That keeps fuel from sloshing into the venturis and flooding the engine. My concern against EFI is the Goodyear ballon "accidentally" detonating high above the dirt and taking out an EFI and other electronic stuff. It will not take out mechanical stuff, such as a carb. Look at how that choo-choo "accidentally" derailed and I bet more "accidental chemical derailments will occur. Too many accidentals to think something ain't up. Be safe and keep your powder dry.
I got fed up with trying to learn about carburation on my own when I was in my early twenties, so I bought a book from a guy named Doug Roe. This guy was employed at the Rochester Quadrajet factory for General Motors and then I started learning about Quadrajet carburators! I highly recommend this book of his knowledge this man filled the book from front to back where a second grader could start rebuilding carburators! But the guy on a webber carburator video I watched last year said it best! That screw on the side for the throttle plates has no tuning purpose whatsoever! That it needs to be adjusted to where the throttle plates don't come back and contact the bore wall if it were to be snapped back and then released! If you go gettin crazy and and try using the adjustment to raise your idle you will get into the off idle circuit and it will fall on it's face when you punch the throttle from a dead stop! 😉
He's right! That book is great. It's on my shelf! I ended up going with Edelbrock but that book beckons to me sometimes -- "get back to messin' with the Rochester, it's worth it..."
I hear you talk about heatsoak on carburetors , particularly Edelbrock . one helpful thing that I found is besides using a phenolic spacer , is to also use a spacer on the air cleaner , that is hood space alows for it . I installed a Edelbrock phenolic spacer which is actually only about a 1/4 " thick , and I also installed a 1" tall spacer between my air cleaner and carburetor in my truck , and it really helped it out a lot with heatsoak , because the extra space lets the heat disapate from the carburetor instead of the air cleaner just holding the engine heat down over top of the carburetor . and it also has a smoother idle on hot days . Tim from Wisconsin.
I can not overstate how important proper fuel pressure is for proper tuning of your Edelbrock carburetor. My suggestion check your pressure, add a regulator if necessary before you even start tuning. 5.5 psig seem to be optimal for my AVS.
I run two Edelbrocks one on a Pontiac 389 (1964 Bonneville) & one on a GM 305 (a 1978 motor in a 1957 GMC) and both are great. I do not ever push anything hard so in my world these are near perfect. It did take time to get the needles, springs and jets within my needs. Early days it was run it and look at the plugs but now I use an air/fuel gauge. Not hard to fit and worth the time and makes tuning so very much easier. I have some videos on this but overall there are more detailed ones. I have worked with Holley carbs but don't like them as much as Edelbrocks. I run a Weber on a 1970 Triumph Spitfire and loved learning about them (a sync not progressive) and there the air/fuel gauge was a must. Just wanted to toss that in. If anyone out there wants to add an air/fuel gauge be sure to shop around and get the best quality you can. My first one didn't last but a few days.... just shop and you'll see. Hope that helps. Bobby
G'day from West Australia😉 I started watching your videos a couple of days ago. For 1 specific reason. I had not set up an Edelbrock carby for at least 15yrs. It is probably pertinant to point out I started my Apprentership in 1981. I have been a qualified Automotive Engineer for 43yr in Febuary 2024. One of my strong points is indeed Carburetor tuning. I started with everything European, ( the high dollar fast stuff) multiple carb stuff. As a first year apprentice ( by the way I am a 3rd gen engineer in my family) my ex Ferarri Engineer boss learned I had been helping my father with cars since I was very young. And dad told my boss I anoy my father because I get more out of his engines than he could with carb tuning. Guess what my boss did!!! Gave me 7 carb tunning jobs on my very first day.
The Australian market is one of my favorites. It’s been close to ten years since I was there last and I fully intend to get back there one day soon. Love the car culture there. Any of y’all would fit in the US and be right at home! Good stuff and congrats on a nice long career!
Using the Edelbrock fuel pump helps too,6 psi and 140gph, that is a HVLP pump. Float setting is crucial on those but once you have them dialed in, they really work good.
The only issue I have is not the set pressure, but not having the opportunity to adjust if needed. Plenty of times where a little less pressure is called for. So I’ll always be a champion of adding a good regulator and a gauge to have another point of adjustment in a system that doesn’t have that many. For sure a good quality pump like Edelbrock is a great starting point.
Had a 1964 SWB Chevy with a 283. Put an edelbrock on it. Absolutely amazing. It wasn't high HP but ran extremely well and got surprising fuel mileage. I have a ford with the inline 6 and will be setting it up with an Edelbrock. Can't wait!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Especially these days. I let go of a lot of older vehicles that are quite expensive these days. I currently have1996 F150 SWB with no plans of letting this one go! Best wishes!
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1974 Dodge Charger with a 318. When I was a youngster I just bought what was cheapest or was available. I ended up buying a Edelbrock carb because it was in my price range. Now knowing more about the carb it is still the perfect fit for me. All of this is new to me, building an engine, the distributer with the correct timing, the carb, the fuel delivery, the thermostat, etc. thank you for putting out a high quality video showing everything about his carb so I know what to expect.
That’s the fun part of playing with cars and engines. There never only one solution to a situation. We all learn something new every time we work on these old classics. Enjoy the ride and don’t hesitate to ask any questions along the way!
I but a comp cams thumper kit into my brothers 65 T bird 390 FE, I fitted an Edelbrock 600 CFM electric choke carby, the car had a flat spot when the secondaries engaged. I fitted a set of main jet needles from a non elcetric choke carby, then adjusted the secondary choke plate to come in a bit earlier. Problem solved without dismantling or removing from the motor, including the road test I reckon the whole operation took about 45 minute’s. And to think that I spent hours trying to get the original ford carby to work properly and a new original ford carby was twice the price of the 2nd hand Edelbrock I bought off eBay, now the car sounds good, goes really good and run’s perfectly.
About the ugly, my Edelbrock AVS used to stutter and stumble on hard lefts just like you said. That was with a rubber fuel line. The problem stopped after I installed the hard fuel line 8126 on the passenger side. It may be coincidence, and I don't why that would have fixed the problem, but it went away after that change.
I installed the AVS2 on my 74 Lincoln, along with an edelbrock performer 460 intake and immediately noticed a huge increase in power and throttle response as well as overall drivability with no other changes, on a totally stock engine, and picked up 5mpg instantly, 14mpg, up from 8 or 9 with the stock Motorcraft carb.
That’s nice to hear but pretty unheard of, unless that poor old motorcraft was just that bad. 😂 Tune it! You’re likely to find more than what you expected!
@@MuscleCarSolutions it was fairly awful. I recently did the 'ol HEI distributor swap, deleting Ford's infamous Neverspark system, and that was also a huge improvement
Had a 650 Holley spread bore and an Offenhauser dual port manifold on a 460 73 T bird. Got good gas mileage and a lot of low-end torque. Those Offenhauser dual port manifolds are known for good gas mileage and low-end torque. I see them on e bay for 460s now and then. Also ran an MSD ignition that seemed to help. The old 460 is a powerful engine that can get reasonable gas mileage if set up right.
Great video mate. I run an edelbrock AVS 500 on my mild 318,just a mild cam with edelbrock performer intake,full exhaust and hei ignition. The heads and bottom end are still stock. It’s a 1980 Chrysler. I had mine professionally tuned and in the 4 years it’s been on my car it still runs perfect! It’s not an everyday car either,just a toy. I’ve been told by some that the 500 is to small for my combo but I think it runs great,never given me a drama and on the Dyno it made 214 hp at the tyres in which I believe is good for an otherwise stock 318. I changed my diff ratio from 2:92 to 3:45 and that made a big difference as well. I will always run edelbrock from now on.
Hello again. Sometime later I know. The next good improvement I made on my 500 was to remove the choke flap! My car starts fine without a choke so I thought it may have been a restriction with the flap sitting there blocking the Venturi It did make quite a noticeable improvement once it was removed. Awesome
I have an AVS2 and I am happy with it. I run a wideband and it's easy to get really good numbers. Very tunable. I do have an off idle stumble/hesitation. Top hole on accelerator. I drilled the squirter out to .045 and it helped. I ordered a Thompson performance carburetor power plate and hopefully that's enough. You can also get the 1468 heavy spring accelerator pump, like someone else mentioned. I do think that's the only real flaw of the carb. Like you said though, more to do with ethanol than a bad design. Still a great carb and I would recommend it for an street car. Great video.
I’m not a fan of that plate, especially on an annual discharge carb that atomizes the fuel/air mixture enough to start the process. The ethanol is a challenge on a couple levels. Such a pain to work around and one factor that almost no one considers when tuning. I’ve been working on an internal mod to the carburetors to open up the fuel passage. It’s a choke point in the system when putting the big pump in and a larger squirted nozzle. So far the results have been minimal, but I’ve just started on it. We’ll see where it leads. 99% of the time these carbs can be tuned out of whatever issue it’s having with fuel delivery. So it’s a bit of a pointless exercise, but something I’ve wanted to try for a long time. We’ll see what happens.
I had a stumble with my eddy 1409 on-my boat. The accelerator pump linkage had some play had to bend the rod to lengthen it to keep pump under tension at all times. I was also running a AFR meter, what i saw was after nailing the gas it went way lean for a long time. Before the AFR meter i was thinking it was lean so i kept richening step up rods and jets creating another stumble later in rpm range…. Had not had the afr meter i would not have seen how lean it was going just after hitting throttle, and how long it took engine to recover and then go way rich… taking the slack out of accelerator pump linkage made it disappear, then going to leaner rod helped the holeshot situation .
@Poor Touring Hot Wire Garage It's not really an assumption. I can watch my AF go lean for a moment when I accelerate. Also, if I pull the choke out slightly, the problem is gone and It it's very responsive. I did also mess with the timing until it started skipping. Thanks anyway though.
You've got Experience. Thanks for passing along some knowledge. I'll be watching & asking some questions when I'm tuning my 340 & 440 'Cuda's Thank you Cheers
This side of the pond, most seem to use Holly carbs, mostly because of availability. Over here the most popular applications are for the Buick derived Rover built 3.5 or 3.9 Ltr v8. They rarely make a genuine 250 hp in tuned form. The Elderbrock is night and day better than a Holly for that application. As for the fuel surge in corners, start with a higher fuel level and twin feeds. Just something we learnt at the track
So it seems that I have chosen the right carb for my purpose. Great video. Very insightful. I am new to this muscle car thing and just built my first car from the ground up. The Edlebrock Carb was the clear choice for me and has been very easy to setup with the help of your videos.
Nice! They have their place in a broad scope of uses. Some fail to understand that and think one type or brand of carb covers everything. I’m glad you found the right solution for your build! Don’t hesitate to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to help.
The majority of the driving on hot rod street cars is in the lower torque curve of the motor . The design of the Edelbrock AVS2 addresses this for the street with a fogging effect . This increasing the burn efficiency of the fuel in the combustion chamber and makes for a very drivable engine , even with a more aggressive cam . More torque and increase mileage is the big reward !
Great video! I'm so tired of guys telling me " you should have bought a holly" I feel like it's a bunch of kids just repeating what they heard from other people.
The only time I had hesitation with an Edelbrock is when the distributor timing mechanism froze up. But do have a left turn issue in my k10! Thanx dude I was gonna buy one for a firebird!
Pulled my steel intake and Qjet off my 86 c10 and went with a edlebrock card and intake. The old set up ran much better. Got the edlebrock to run decent but one I let it sit for 10 minutes and now I'm have to pump to start. Looking to go with Holley. Can't be worse
Did you take the air horn off the new carb and clean the internals before you put it on? I know it sucks to have to do and we shouldn't have to but it doesn't take much to get stuck in the needle and seat and cause problems.
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 LA stock. I put a Weiand aluminum intake and an AVS2 675 carburetor on it. I live in the upper Midwest and since the roads are clear, I decided to take a drive. Today I've had to do a bunch of adjustments because it died and started stumbling. I noticed it was leaking fuel and getting heat soaked with a ton of vapor after driving it kinda hard. I looked at my fuel pressure guage and it's reading 8psi, now it won't start until the fuel and vapor is gone so I'll have to add a FPR other than a Mr. Gasket.
Really informative video! One thought… why not fabricate an external primary pump? Little syringe where the pump rod lives… one issue I’m curious if you ran into is a lip about a quarter inch up in the primary pump cylinder,? Seems to limit the stroke of the pump. The cup hits it and the spring soaks up the rest of the travel. I wonder about honing it to get a little extra juice too.
You should add a disclaimer, that if you know how to tune a carb, you can tune out the cornering issue. Also the secondary circuit will dry quickly with todays gas and you will get a bog if you floor it right after it sits for awhile.
The cornering issue is a design problem that unshrouds the jet on that side. There’s no tuning that can recover from lack of fuel. It’s a fairly well known problem with these carbs, but in their defense they were not designed to be a star on the autocross track.
Great info as usual. I think a lot the Edelbrock angst is like the Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge drama...a whole lot ill informed opinions based on one off experiences.
True. Though the carb thing is generally based on not applying the right solution to the equation. When you apply the wrong part, the outcome is bad. But instead of blaming themselves for making a poor decision, it’s easier to just blame the part then taking responsibility.
On the ugly part I think that the reason you can starve for fuel in a left hand turn is that centrifugal force keeps the fuel from transferring to the driver side. The small capacity of the float bowl is not enough to keep up with demand. That is also the accelerator pump side so that diminishes the capacity as well.
Good confirmation of a lot of things I've discovered through real-life work. Especially that sharp left-hand turn issue. That's real! It's a pisser. But I'm glad to know there's nothing I can do about it. 😅
Never had such awful support in my life than from Edlebrock. I have called them seven times this week and never got an answer, only on hold, once for an hour before I hung up. When they eventually replied to my email after 6 days they said, "650 is good for your truck." No explanation, no suggestions, no effort. I returned the carb unopened that day. I am glad you had a good experience, but I will never deal with them again.
I can tell you they are like most of the bigger companies these days - very understaffed, especially on their tech line. Unfortunately hiring techs isn’t easy. In some cases they train for over a year before they’re allowed to handle the complicated stuff like valvetrain. I’ve spent almost three decades in the automotive aftermarket and these past three years have been the worst I’ve ever seen and it’s not going to fix itself overnight. But that’s also why TH-cam channels like mine have grown. We’re filling that gap.
try a summit carb that looks like a old Ford carb has power of a holley but float bowls like the edelbrock so no leak just got one tuned it and goes like stink
@@MuscleCarSolutions The last two Holley accelerator pumps have leaked right out of the box for me as well. I had to reuse my old one both times. I'm done with Holley.
Great informative vid and lots of excellent pointing outs of positive n negatives . I do want to know. I have a mild street Mopar 318 with Weiand stealth intake. I have a AVS 2 on American untying n it . Had a 69 440 magnum factory AVS on it n ran very well but wanting better fuel atomization as well as maybe some power gain. It does have 8.5-1 compression. High swirl 302 casting heads and a Hughes cam designed for my combo. Hyd flat tappet with .486 int and .502 exh. I run 3/8 fuel lines tank to Carter hv mechanical pump and a pertronix flame thrower 3 distributor and matching coil. Power master high amp alt. It looks a a total street car with 4.10 gears and 2800 stall. Hope w much fuel pressure should I regular it t to will be a gauge right before carb and right after regulator. I run a filter close to the tank and another right after the fuel tank pump. Seems about 6psi should be right . I know I can contact Edelbrock. But would like your opinion. Thank you very much .
Lots to share with you to answer your questions and to change a little how you look at it. First off, curious about your cam selection. Check out this short video to see what duration is the number that’s needed and lift not so important. th-cam.com/video/bNbwOMuwO6Y/w-d-xo.html. Without knowing those specs but looking at what else you have and the low compression you’re running in that engine, is still advise to start at 6psi and tune down from there. Edelbrock’s love operating in the 4.5-6psi range. Any higher you’ll run into too much and any lower (depending on how you set the floats) can run into starvation issues. The flow rate at that psi is good. As far as better atomization is concerned, that’s going to be covered perfectly by the AVS2. Power gain is going to be limited by the rest of your set up. Tuning abs timing are your keys to finding the max power in that engine. I have lots of videos on all these topics if you get a chance to check them out. Watch that lift vs duration video first and let me now what you thing. 👍
Hello Muscle Car Solutions, thanks for the great video. I am on the fence right now with my stock 1990 Chevy 2500, I am having TBI issues I thought about swapping it for a Sniper or Etech, there have been more than a couple of guys complaining about the sniper , so I am considering going to a carburetor, I have always liked Quadrajets for stock engines, I have rebuild several back in the 80s and 90s, I never tuned one like you talked about I just figured they were set up for the engine they were put on. If me and my buddies modified our engines Holly was our go to choice. Now Holly has a Quadrajet replacement that has a spread bore base and larger secondary throttle plate. If I convert to carburetor I have to change the intake manifold and the distributor, I am fine with that. You gave me something to think about as far as the Edelbrock option. I need this 90 2500 to travel from the L.A. area to the most northern part of Washington a few times in the next few months for are retirement relocation. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated . Spindrift
@@spindriff it’s pretty common to have issues with the TBI EFI from that era. It’s like having a flip phone from 1998. The technology is way more advanced and there is no more support left. So switching to a modern EFI will always be the best choice for a cruiser. As far as folks having issues, I can tell you that 95% of the time, it’s user caused. Bad grounds is by far the number one issue. It will fry an ECU QUICKLY. Even the self learning units can be a bit complicated if you’re not used to how to tune. So any issues, people tend to blame the part because they don’t understand how it works. I’ll eventually do a self learning EFI series of videos if I can ever find the time. In the meantime, if you’re more of a novice, using a universal carb like the Edelbrock’s or the Holley is generally not a bad way to go. You’ll need to do some tuning to help match it up with your application, but you’ll have no issue with that commute once you get the carb sorted out AND if you have the right support (fuel system, ignition/timing) to help the carburetor perform the way it should. It’s been awhile, but I’ve made the trip from WA to LA and back a few times in cars equipped with Edelbrock carbs. No issues.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much for such a timely response, I think I will go with a Caurb. set up for now, I already have a complete HEI setup intended for a car already sold, I will need a square bore manifold for a modern TBI anyhow so I can go that route next year after I am all moved up north. I can take my time installing and put extra ground straps/cables (good advice) from frame to motor and battery. Best Regards Spindrift.
Great video. Lots of great info, and I really appreciate that this wasn't another video about JUST the pros and ignoring the cons. One of the most honest info vid on the Edelbrock carbs out there. Thanks!
Thanks man! Always appreciate your feedback. Had to look at it objectively. It’s the only way to select parts for a build. You know as well as anyone. It’s the combination that bakes a great cake! Cheers!
I have a rebuilt 455 olds, I don't know all that went into it. Was told it has an RV cam. The valves have 3 angle cut. It idols and can Rev up ok. At idols I can reach 12 to 13 lbs. Of vacuum. The carburetor is a new 750 eldabrock. HEI ignition. Taylor wires. With what I was told, the low vacuum,at 12to 13 lbs and stinken exhaust I am thinking now I might have valve issues. I will retime it an adjust the metering rods and springs some. If there is anything you could add, It is all appreciated. Thank you for all your support.
It’s difficult to say. Rv cam is such a generic term. If it’s a very low duration then it’s my assumption given that engines ease in making vacuum, it should be much higher. Run a compression and a leak down test?
Also never ever had an issue with left hand or right hand turns in my edlebrocks. And I've done 30 40 50 80 100 it don't matter just never had the issue.
I have used edelbrock carbs on my car for 30 years they are good street carbs and stay in tune , I’ve used Holley is a good carb also but to me get out of tune on older models but better for race applications, I’ve rebuilt it years later and got a tuning kit due to I upgraded my engine with a cam and performance heads ported and needed to fine tune it better, but for me I like them
Muscle car solutions: I have a 318 in a 76 D100 that I rebuilt in 89 using flat top 9.0 to one pistons, Edelbrock performer cam and lifter kit with Edelbrock performer intake. I used a 500 cfm Carter AFB carb and tuned it to run well and transition from idle to part throttle fairly well. Gas mileage has been terrible, but I rarely drive the truck. I had the Carter rebuilt due to drive-ability issues and never have been able to get it working right. It always seems to want to stumble and sometimes dies when going from idle to part throttle under load. It is worse in winter! If I have time I usually go out and start it up, run it for 10 minutes and shut it off and let the engine heat up on it's own. When i go out after 20 minutes of so and start it up, it runs better, but still has the stumble and almost die problem. What Edelbrock should I use to get my truck driving better. I am thinking 1406 600 cfm.? Would the AVS be better? Thank you for your help, Tom.
@@MuscleCarSolutions When purchased from Summit, it was listed as a rebuilt Carter. The numbers I think I see on the left front are C5 9511 S. When installed after rebuilding the engine in 1989, I spent several weekends getting it tuned using a strip kit and instruction book. I still have the strip kit, but no instructions, so no tuning lately. I am wondering if this carb has been rebuilt past it's useful life. I have a back injury and don't do too well crawling into the engine bay working on this carb now. So many folks say the new Edelbrocks are lots of times just bolt on and run well.
@@seniorrider9337 there is no carburetor that just bolts on and you don’t do anything to. It must be adjusted for your individual circumstance, driving style, elevation. You can change carburetors if you’d like, but understanding how to make those adjustments is part of the process. Way too many variables here. What’s your timing set to? What’s your fuel pressure at the carburetor? Have you reset the floats? What step up springs are in the carb and what is your vacuum at idle?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for your time and answer. I think I need to find someone local who really knows what they are doing, as the guy who rebuilt the carb 2 years ago seems to have misled me. I am no longer able to do the tuning due to age and a back injury. I was under the impression that the new Edelbrock carbs came very close to right for the application, so I guess I was wrong. I have tuned carbs many a time in my younger years, especially modified motorcycles. The most labor intensive carb I ever rebuilt and tuned was a quadrajet for a 427 Chevy marine application in Nam. I know how labor intensive it can be. I remember spending a couple of weeks tuning a pair of 36mm Mukuni carbs for a hopped up Yamaha Rd- 350. After all was done, it was a real pleasure to ride. Thanks again for your time and help. I will be looking for someone who knows these carbs locally and can get mine tuned up better than it is now or tells me it is too old and I need a new one. Oh, and Happy holidays.
Well the good news is the Edelbrock carb isn’t near as difficult as the Qjet or the Mikuni carbs. Hate to say it though, most “mechanics” can’t tune a carburetor. Which in all honesty is why I started making these videos so folks could do it on their own. Hopefully you’ll find someone who can give you a hand and get you fixed up.
OK, considering a 1410 for a Jet Boat build. 468 ci motor with 270* cam at 9.8CR with Aluminum heads (so it can run fuel dock gas). Stock Berkeley pump with A cut impeller so it'll load the engine to maybe 5K to 5,500. I like the idea of no leaks below the gasket line. What do you think of this application?
My question is what is the proper procedure for setting the idle/air mix when there are 2 carbs on top of a 6-71 blower? Do I turn the screws all the way in on one of the carbs first or? Enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I've been waiting for another video, awesome content as always, can I swap my boosters for avs 2 boosters I'm running 4edelbrock carbs would like to upgrade them to avs2 performance
Hey John. Couple things. Yes the boosters will fit from an AVS2 to an older performer series. Problem is, Edelbrock doesn’t sell them separately. Also, even if they did, you’ll likely not be able to take advantage of them. I am a few months away from doing this test and video, but I’m certain the fuel supply was also altered to account for more fuel flow with those boosters. I’ll test that theory soon.
I ran a Street Demon 625 and had similar issues with the accelerator pump. Where your opinion of the Edelbrock pump is that it's just too small, the SD's one was weak and intermittent (sometimes nothing). I fixed both of these issues by using a stronger spring to build more pressure behind the piston so the cup sealed better, and I also put an o-ring inside the lip of the cup to push it out into the pump bore. The standard SD pump was terrible in my opinion. They are made by Holley, so they had the chance to use the winning design with the diaphragm and they didn't. My biggest gripe was with available needles/jets. Off-idle and midrange was brilliant, hut it was either rich cruise with good performance, or good cruise with lean performance. I tried everything, but the economy was just disappointing. Secondaries were always lean (on a mild 302C). After finally losing the tuning kit, it was just easier to buy and rebuild a 650 spread pumper. It's been the best economy- and performance-wise, and this is carb number 4 now. I have tweaked it a little (70 IABs, jetted 65/89, PVCRs out to 55, 2-stage PV) and it's a perfect mild street carb now. I won't hear any criticism of these carbs now that I know my way around them.
I’ve responded to this same comment you’ve left a number of times. The .43 nozzle does not come in any of the factory carbs. Right now, that’s all Edelbrock is concentrating on is getting out finished carbs out the door. If it’s not something that supports that, the chances of getting one anytime soon is not good. I probably have one that I would be willing to sell you. I’ll have to look and see. I recently sold a couple assortments of that part number to folks needing them so I’ll have to see if I have any more left.
Great video. BUT a hard left turn would uncover the passengers jet, not the drivers side jet like you demonstrated. Did you mean to say a hard RIGHT turn? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for the quality videos.
I have always loved the Quadra jet carburetor for its mile per gallon advantage, but on my mild vortec 350 it is just not putting out the horsepower that my Edelbrock AVS 2 was before I took it off. And I just don’t have the time to get the Quadra jet perfectly set up, and it is also suffering from fuel starvation, which is an issue on those . Going to go back to the AVS 2 and try to tune out a rich condition at idle. My main question is, do you believe the AVS 2 650 cfm is capable of as good mpg numbers as the Quadra jet when tuned properly? I drive a lot of miles with my street truck so every mpg counts. Great video!
Quadrajets are OK for GM's but they have a really small float well/bowl. Also they're made out of zinc instead of aluminum. Holley's are pretty good, simple to work on, pretty fair adjustability, but nowhere near the fine tuning you can get from a Carter (Edelbrock). The Thermoquad is a much more refined version of the AVS and MUCH more precise fuel control than the Quadrajunk. I've had TQ's that were almost as responsive as fuel injection. That AVS2 is a really nice carb. Put one my truck out of the box and it's a real performer. I probably wouldn't use the earlier AFB knockoff Edelbrocks.
I made a living in 80s doing carbs. Specialized in fords variable venturis that everyone hated. Always thought would be fun to throw 3 VVs on a hotrod instead of regular 3 dueces. Same with thermoquads, mostly just misunderstood.
Only time I monkeyed with them was to remove and put a two barrel on. Reviews have always been mixed, but I’m sure they did what they needed to do on a stock application. Everything has its place!
Hi, your videos are simply the best!!! I seriously mean that too. I noticed your fuel filter is full of gas. I have an electric fuel pump with a mister gasket regulator and my fuel filter is at best about a third full. It seems once the truck runs and gets warmed up I have problems with no fuel. There is no vapor lock, no clogged fuel filter before and after the electric pump. Any suggestion? While I am home everything works fine but once I am on the road she behaves poorly and leaves me stranded. Thanks again for these great informational videos.
Couple questions. Is the carburetor bolted directly to the intake? The inexpensive Mr Gasket pumps are known for being rather unreliable. Have you tried a different pump to verify that it’s working as intended? Are you running any sort of regulator in the system? Hopefully and it’s the last thing before the carb like I mention in my fuel systems video. I very much appreciate your kind words. Thank you!
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow, that was a quick response, thank you. Everything is new on this build. I am going from the tank to a filter, to the electric pump, to the mr. Gasket regulator, to a clear filter and then into the carb. I have an extra electric fuel pump I was thinking of trying also I am thinking just use the mechanical which it currently does not have. Its a stock 302 ford in a 1950 Willy's pickup. Engine is all new rebuilt too. for about 40 bucks I can buy a new mechanical one, what do you think. I ordered a pressure gauge to test the pressure but at this point I am so frustrated and I have no faith when I take it out. The carb is also new too.
Check out the video I have on how to set up a fuel system for a muscle car. Will get the order straight in your system. At this point I’d start to eliminate potential problems. The verification of the pump working properly would be a good place to start. Is this a vented tank? What cap are you using? Good thing to check would be when driving and it’s acting up to pull over, and open the cap. Does a big rush of air occur when you pull the cap? Could be creating a vacuum. Just some guesses here. Keep investigating!
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow, ya know I never thought of the cap, what a great idea.I am working my way thought the system. I notice the see through filter on your truck seems full, mine is never even half way. I'll check out the vid. Thank you so much for your time and expertise, it's greatly appreciated.😀
May seem trivial, but I dont like that I cant directly hook a TV cable up without getting another piece to bolt on. Maybe it doesn't apply to all models, but I can get a Holley with that built in pop the cable on it and done.
Great video! What is the maximum fuel pressure for the AVS2? I hear they don't like to have too much fuel pressure. The carb I have is a 650 CFM AVS2 that I am putting on a 460 soon. Thanks
I run mine at 5.5 psig. You are correct they run rich a higher pressure. I also noticed with a mechanical fuel pump pressure seems to bop around a bit. A regulator will not only lower the pressure but will also smothen out the flow making it more consistent.
Awesome videos!!!! I think I can tune one now!!!! I currently have one with a really rich idle it came from ebay I think it may need a few things....gonna check the fuel pressure, float level and metering springs 1/2 turn out on idle screws and its still burning my eyes.
It's kind of creepy how Google knows what I look up. Low and behold in my feed a couple of days ago was the new Edelbrock 4150 that looks nothing like an Edelbrock but does address horsepower ceiling I believe. I can't wait till you get your hands on one of those. Hell I'm going to email Edelbrock and tell them to give you one because it will be good for business.
If your timing is all wrong no amount of carb adjustments will fix it. The edelbrock/carter afb is a great street carb that holds a tune and is a set it and forget it carb
@@MuscleCarSolutions My 90 RS Camaro, built 4-bolt main 350, had no issues with a 800 cfm thunder avs even in high g turns. Left nor right. Maybe some people do? Thanks for your response!
I wish the Thermoquad in its original form was back - phenolic body and all. I can work wonders with those things. People never realized they had 2 stage accelerator pumps in them. They were set up wrong from the factory. They were supposed to give a second shot down the primaries as the secondary throttle valves opened, before the air doors reacted. Also there was a dashpot to control the rate of secondary air valve. Many either a) removed this or b) failed to test to make sure it was working. Later variants had a restrictor in the port to control the air valve rate of the dashpot. It was still very fast but slowed it to eliminate stumble. Additionally, the secondary air valve had to have a small amount say 35-40 thousandths of air door freeplay to allow initial movement. With the long gone strip kits they were a great thing. SImple, great economy, dual booster venturis in the primaries. Apart from stupidity, they really only 1 fault and it was a big one - the plugs at the bottom of the metering rod wells would fall out allowing fuel to pour out. This cause people to tighten the screws breaking the bosses in the resin body worsening their reputation. Also on disassembly many would forget the 2x screws inside the primary area and crack the resin body. Their problems were mostly manufacturing errors combined with manufacturing set up errors combined with aftermarket accelerator pump listings being wrong as they were too short to allow the dual accelerator pump activation.
Super stuff ty. Looking to do a tbi to 1406 edlebrock on a clean stock ‘95 5.7. I will be adding the 1/2 inch phenolic 4hole spacer - is that too thick in your opinion? Also which manifold would you go with? Thanks again, I saved this video for future reference too!
You’re pretty limited on that generation small block. If it’s stock, then the performer series is what it will want. They make that in an EGR or non EGR version.
I have a Edelbrock 600 on a 351 W Ford engine that runs great. But it will not pass smog. I have tried everything and it still won't pass smog. So I put the old Holley 600 on for the smog test and then put the Edelbrock back on to drive as it runs better and smoother than the Holley.
@@MuscleCarSolutions The smog test guy just said it would not pass. I went through the manual and bought a kit to recalibrate the out of the box calibrations to leaner. The second time I did the smog test it failed again except this time the smog guy said that the reason it did not pass both times was at idle not the 2500 RPM test. I wished I would have known that before I messed with the calibration. After blowing out all the idle circuits with carb cleaner and compressed air, setting the idle exactly per instructions, still would not pass the idle test. Too rich. So now I use the 600 CFM Holley for the test and run the 750 Edelbrock on the street. I am running a stock camshaft, and a 351 W Edelbrock dual plane performer manifold. 5 psi regulated fuel pressure. No vacuum leaks. I bought this 750 CFM Edelbrock carburetor new. It runs just fine, so I don't want to get rid of it. .
Today I installed a new out of the box Edelbrock 800 CFM AVS2 to replace the Edelbrock 750 CFM I was having trouble with described in the discussion above. Problem solved. I just set the idle and made no other adjustments and got a AFR of 14 to 15 at idle. This is way better than the 750 with a AFR of 11 to 12 at idle. The AVS2 should be able to pass the idle smog test no problem. 😊
The ugly side is a simple fix. The eldelbrock carb has a second fuel input that is plugged. Remove and add secondary fuel line to feed both sides. Easy fix. Eldelbrock carbs are very versatile if you know what your doing
Wish that worked 100% of the time, but in aggressive driving, it doesn’t. Street vehicles that I’ve installed the dual kit on have fared better, but they’re usually not trying to take a turn at 1G. 😂
Hey man. I have an Edelblock AVS2, and was stupid and I ran it on a dirty tank. Now it is flooding like crazy. Since you are a carburetor guru, I was gonna ask you what you think it is. Or guide me on the right direction please. Thank you so much.
i have a heat soak issue with my edelbrock,AVS2, 650cfm carb. i installed the heat-spacer gasket, by edelbrock, very little help. was told that issue is due to the low boiling point of ethanol fuel, boiling at 173 degrees,causing flooding after sitting when hot.
That is correct. Ethanol boils at a low temperature (varies by elevation). The 3/8” thick gasket is ok, but sometimes more is needed. I did a specific video on this that you might find helpful. th-cam.com/video/sXY4t8LSwjs/w-d-xo.html
My 25 years of working on cars Edelbrock carbs are good for street cars with low hp engines or a cruiser type car. You wanna go fast and make as much hp as you can a holley or really any brand carb of a 4150 is the way to go. Want to go super fast, a carb with no choke or vacuum secondary for all out racing.
I have watched many videos where people call it an Edelbrock carb, I still call it a Carter carb. The design has not changed since the 1960's just a name change because Edelbrock bought the rights.
No, the internal design has changed to accommodate todays fuel volume, boosters and configuration. Sure it’s looks similar from the outside I suppose, but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t had to change with the times. It’s not the same Carter competition series carb, but it is made by a lot of the same people in its original manufacturing facility in Sanford NC.
I would be interested to know if a set of stiffer anti sway bars would help the fuel starvation under hard braking. Yes the fuel wood still slosh to one side, BUT if the vehicle remained flatter through the corners, the fuel bowl wouldn't have a lower side to it( or be dipping to one side) there for not affecting the level of fuel as much. Your thoughts? And or maybe adding a slightly faster fuel pump?
Unlikely. Autocross, road race cars are set up with adjustable, stiffer suspension components and the improved handling creates additional forces pushing fluids around in the vehicle. I like the line of thinking though.
@@MuscleCarSolutions lol yes I am well aware. Is there room between the walls of the carburetor and float bowl to weld a baffle or a very short 90 degree ledge above the jet height on the opposite side of the fuel bowl wall? Similar to oil pan baffling ? To help hold the fuel from sloshing upwards?
@@johnnyturbo8460 floats take up some space that has to be accounted for. Ensuring the jet continues to be fed fuel is another concern. I’ve seen folks try and JB Weld in some baffle type restrictions for the fuel to slosh. I used to have some much narrower floats that I had made that would allow for some room to work inside with some of those ideas, but they’re long gone. Would be pretty easy to mock up and try though.
@@MuscleCarSolutions cool. That's what I was thinking. Where there is a will, there is a way.. your great video has now given me the will to solve that fuel starving issue. I am interested in that avs2 Carborator. Now I think I will get it and see if I can solve that issue.
@@johnnyturbo8460 yup. It’s a task for sure. With more info online you might be able to find a float body in the right narrow size that you can alter to work and then start experimenting. One of those things I’d like to try one of these days down the road when I’m retired and have some time! Let me know if you have any luck with it!
Well to address the starving issue when you're turning left can't that be resolved by adding a fuel inlet on both sides? It already has one on the passenger side but can you add it on the other side as well?
On cold start Holleys are better. It does seem to be an easier carb to set up on a new car. But I have had 3 Edwlbrocks that all leak down over night making hard morning starts.
I’ve come to really like the summit brand carbs, no Leaks Typically, easy jet changes, All holley parts, Annualar Boosters, good mpgs. Used to dislike Edelbrock, but I’m finding they aren’t as bad as I remember
I understand the business side of things, but really dislike retailers that go off shore to knock off products or buy a cheap version of something. I fully support them trying to be profitable, but in the end these Chinese knock offs have ruined the motorsports hobby. No one supports “made in the USA” when it’s time to take out their wallet.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I would have loved to have been around back when holley was making them. And I wish they were still made here. As far as USA stuff goes, I’ll always go with Howard’s cams, Moroso, holley etc. The summit brand 4010 just happens to bring the best qualities from an edelbrock and a holley into one unit.
The biggest reason why edelbrocks get a bad reputation is because they are one of the cheapest and most readily available replacement carbs so when uninformed people have issues with their engine the first thing they do is blame the carb when usually they have some other issue like a bad cam or incorrect timing, so then they go to the auto parts store and buy the cheapest carb on the shelf which is usually an eldelbrock or one of those 4160 500cfm holleys and they slap them on and when it still doesn't run right they just blame the carb and call them complete junk. In my experience the edelbrocks are the best set it and forget it, get the job done type carb they are decent and you can find second hand carbs for dirt cheap because most people want a holley, take a $25 swap meet edelbrock, throw a rebuild kit in it and have a decent carb for under $100
There’s no doubt the big box stores facilitate this type of behavior. Unfortunately that’s the world we live in. The root cause is rarely investigated. It’s just change parts till it sort of runs right.
These carbs can come alive with metering rod changes. These are basically the old Carter AFB. I had a metering rod kit back in the 80s. Woke it right up with smaller metering rods. Tested the Carter and holley back then on my car and there was no difference between the two. The edelbrock is lean from factory.
@@scottmcgehee2933 following the tuning chart makes it very simple and very easy. It’s amazing how many just bolt it on and never try to make it better. I love the way they drive. They’re incredibly efficient and can perform very well. Just have to take the time to work with it instead of just putting up with it out of the box.
I have a holley 4160 on my 454 c10. I really want to make it a reliable long distance cruiser without ever LS swapping it. I guess getting an edlebrock carb is a start. I always seem to have gas leaking at the fuel line fitting on the carb. Those one piece fuel rails are never aligned right and Holly just make individual steal braided fuel fittings for that carb and only for the 4150 and newer models. Looking to switching to edlebrock and learning more before I jump into an edlebrock or just buy a newer Holly
I’ve said many times on this channel that everything is situational. Pick the right carburetor for the application and then the right size. You’ll not go wrong with that way of picking way to go with. One thing the Edelbrock has always been famous for and that’s NOT leaking. Keep watching the videos in the Edelbrock Tech series I have. You’ll find that they are very simple to tune once you have the process and set up dialed in.
Hey there sir, One thanks for the video. This is helping me decide what carburetor I would like to change to. I think I am leaning towards the AVS2 1906. I have been looking at many videos on changing and I am not seeing anything about the choke in my scenario. I have a rockchester quadrajet 4 barrel carburetor ( autoline part number c960) and it has a vacuum choke. Pardon my ignorance but my question is, can I use electric choke as a replacement? Just not seeing any video talking about changing from vacuum choke to either electric or manual. Most definitely do not want to go to manual choke. So wanna go to the edelbrock 1906 electric. What are your thoughts?
Yes. I’m assuming you have the divorced choke (choke mechanism is in the intake manifold and not on the carburetor). You can switch to the electric choke easily. I also did a video on how to wire an electric choke that you also might find useful. Let me know if you have any questions!
They can be. The last 20 years have seen Holley make some tunability upgrades which have given more way to find the right settings for an individual application. But the Edelbrock carbs can be extremely user friendly if one takes a little time to learn them.
They have had dual inlet capability on the older thunder series carbs and that carried over to the AVS2. It’s a good addition but didn’t quite solve the issue.
I'm new to Eldebrock and want to build a sbc for high rpm, but good mpg when driving easy. I'm pretty sure I want to go Eldebrock and trying to decide between the 600 and the 750 performer series.
Gday sir. Are you saying that you can't put a second fuel line on the other side of the carburetor with a t or y fitting? At least that's what I'm about to do with mine, but for a different reason, and that reason is BOOST. Just to make sure I don't lean out under boost. It's a drawthrough application. Also I'm going to make a second plunger so I can utilize the empty bowl with some tomfoolery, that holds extra fuel opposite the plunger. 😂 wish me luck😢
Please excuse my ignorance, but...not to old to try to learn at 63. I have a carter competition series, 625/650? cfm, from early 90's on my mopar 340. I believe it is an "AFB" based carb. I was wondering what is the difference between an "AFB" carb vrs one of the new Eddy "ABS 2" carbs, (old timers kicking in...I think I have the letters correct) I am curious if the new ABS 2 carbs are a better design, for the street? etc. I have issues with mine when it gets hot, heat sink no doubt. (my fault of course), But I still enjoy cruzing my '68 B'cuda "time machine" (1st car back on the road again), still trying to "get" how to tune these things. : /
i pulled a edlebrock carb off my engine replaced it with a holley and it came alive both where new carbs quadro jet is a way better carb plus u can drill it out easy to work on just u must reseat the fuel bowl on the lead plugs or if it leaks at all it will affect the secondaries. the edlebrock i feel is the worse carb and the cheapest carb on the market junk not worth the money . u do know u will get better performance out of a quadro jet then a edlebrock carb and u can drill it out to 1150 cmf's . i have a bunch of edlebrock carbs most i got from rigs that they put one on and when i get it, it comes off and goes in a pile
Send em my way! I’ll take them all.
You obviously don't know how to tune one.
@@Ratridez i guess the dyno tune had no idea what it was doing but it worked good on a Quadro jet or a Holley it seem to gain hp with those carbs but could it be that it is the cheapest carb on the market plus i am a G.M. certified mechanic and ben building cars for over 45 years i think i know my carbs . y don't u see them on the drag strip mite because they suck. i will take a quadro jet against a eldlebrock any day of the week try using a quadro jet carb off a 454 which is a 600 or u can drill them out all the way up to a 1150 means u know so much about carbs
@@jeffrey4547 1/4 mile, racing, dyno you go with Holley. For normal street cruiser, resto, muscle you go with original carb or Carter/Edelbrock 👍
@@MuscleCarSolutions lol can get the left over parts???
My solution I used for your “ugly” was getting the Edelbrock part# 8128. Remove the feed plug on the driver side of the Edelbrock carb and install the part# 8128 dual feed fuel line. It keeps both bowls equally full at all times. So it doesn’t matter if you make hard turns or go off roading like me, after I installed this dual fuel feed line those problems went away.
I did the same thing, my drive way has a hill that I have to drive around and it leans my truck to the left Which bogged it down. I tried a DP holley and it worked but I sat there for hours trying to get the dam thing to idle correctly and it was really rough when I finally found a sweet spot. My cam was already super choppy and it made it sound really disturbing so I took it off and just hooked another line to the avs2 and fixed everything, had to increase jetting but I haven't had a problem since then
I just asked why a "Y" could be centered to feed both sides and read your comment. Maybe even set the floats so both bowls hold more fuel. So I am not the only one with your thoughts; there is another similar comment about the same technique that cured the problem.
Hey, and I bet we are all just carpenters who happen to see details and figure it out right.
My solution for fuel sloshing around while "rock bouncing" is to extend the breather inlets. On a Motorcraft 2150 a peace of tubing can be rolled like a tubing from a still above the carb, but below the air cleaner lid with holes drilled on the top coil for breathing.
That keeps fuel from sloshing into the venturis and flooding the engine. My concern against EFI is the Goodyear ballon "accidentally" detonating high above the dirt and taking out an EFI and other electronic stuff. It will not take out mechanical stuff, such as a carb. Look at how that choo-choo "accidentally" derailed and I bet more "accidental chemical derailments will occur. Too many accidentals to think something ain't up.
Be safe and keep your powder dry.
I got fed up with trying to learn about carburation on my own when I was in my early twenties, so I bought a book from a guy named Doug Roe. This guy was employed at the Rochester Quadrajet factory for General Motors and then I started learning about Quadrajet carburators! I highly recommend this book of his knowledge this man filled the book from front to back where a second grader could start rebuilding carburators! But the guy on a webber carburator video I watched last year said it best! That screw on the side for the throttle plates has no tuning purpose whatsoever! That it needs to be adjusted to where the throttle plates don't come back and contact the bore wall if it were to be snapped back and then released! If you go gettin crazy and and try using the adjustment to raise your idle you will get into the off idle circuit and it will fall on it's face when you punch the throttle from a dead stop! 😉
He's right! That book is great. It's on my shelf! I ended up going with Edelbrock but that book beckons to me sometimes -- "get back to messin' with the Rochester, it's worth it..."
I hear you talk about heatsoak on carburetors , particularly Edelbrock . one helpful thing that I found is besides using a phenolic spacer , is to also use a spacer on the air cleaner , that is hood space alows for it . I installed a Edelbrock phenolic spacer which is actually only about a 1/4 " thick , and I also installed a 1" tall spacer between my air cleaner and carburetor in my truck , and it really helped it out a lot with heatsoak , because the extra space lets the heat disapate from the carburetor instead of the air cleaner just holding the engine heat down over top of the carburetor . and it also has a smoother idle on hot days . Tim from Wisconsin.
I can not overstate how important proper fuel pressure is for proper tuning of your Edelbrock carburetor. My suggestion check your pressure, add a regulator if necessary before you even start tuning. 5.5 psig seem to be optimal for my AVS.
I run two Edelbrocks one on a Pontiac 389 (1964 Bonneville) & one on a GM 305 (a 1978 motor in a 1957 GMC) and both are great. I do not ever push anything hard so in my world these are near perfect. It did take time to get the needles, springs and jets within my needs. Early days it was run it and look at the plugs but now I use an air/fuel gauge. Not hard to fit and worth the time and makes tuning so very much easier. I have some videos on this but overall there are more detailed ones. I have worked with Holley carbs but don't like them as much as Edelbrocks. I run a Weber on a 1970 Triumph Spitfire and loved learning about them (a sync not progressive) and there the air/fuel gauge was a must. Just wanted to toss that in. If anyone out there wants to add an air/fuel gauge be sure to shop around and get the best quality you can. My first one didn't last but a few days.... just shop and you'll see. Hope that helps. Bobby
G'day from West Australia😉
I started watching your videos a couple of days ago.
For 1 specific reason.
I had not set up an Edelbrock carby for at least 15yrs.
It is probably pertinant to point out I started my Apprentership in 1981.
I have been a qualified Automotive Engineer for 43yr in Febuary 2024.
One of my strong points is indeed Carburetor tuning.
I started with everything European, ( the high dollar fast stuff) multiple carb stuff.
As a first year apprentice ( by the way I am a 3rd gen engineer in my family) my ex Ferarri Engineer boss learned I had been helping my father with cars since I was very young. And dad told my boss I anoy my father because I get more out of his engines than he could with carb tuning.
Guess what my boss did!!!
Gave me 7 carb tunning jobs on my very first day.
The Australian market is one of my favorites. It’s been close to ten years since I was there last and I fully intend to get back there one day soon. Love the car culture there. Any of y’all would fit in the US and be right at home! Good stuff and congrats on a nice long career!
Using the Edelbrock fuel pump helps too,6 psi and 140gph, that is a HVLP pump. Float setting is crucial on those but once you have them dialed in, they really work good.
The only issue I have is not the set pressure, but not having the opportunity to adjust if needed. Plenty of times where a little less pressure is called for. So I’ll always be a champion of adding a good regulator and a gauge to have another point of adjustment in a system that doesn’t have that many. For sure a good quality pump like Edelbrock is a great starting point.
Great video, so helpful, I managed to improve the fuel starvation issue when cornering by having 2 fuel pipes, one supplying each float chamber.
Glad you found a solution to work for you! Good work!
I put aclerator pump part number 1468 for a 800 in my 650 avs. It help a lot
Had a 1964 SWB Chevy with a 283. Put an edelbrock on it. Absolutely amazing. It wasn't high HP but ran extremely well and got surprising fuel mileage. I have a ford with the inline 6 and will be setting it up with an Edelbrock. Can't wait!
In the right situation, every carb can succeed. Would love to have a 64 Chevy! 😂
@@MuscleCarSolutions Especially these days. I let go of a lot of older vehicles that are quite expensive these days. I currently have1996 F150 SWB with no plans of letting this one go! Best wishes!
@@jeffpittman8725 the used market is a mess right now. I’m hanging on to everything until it calms down! Thank you! Same to you.
Jeff , do you still own that 283? I have a 65 283 i have an avs2 500 cfm on and id like to know how you ended up with the setup.
Thank you for making this video. I have a 1974 Dodge Charger with a 318. When I was a youngster I just bought what was cheapest or was available. I ended up buying a Edelbrock carb because it was in my price range. Now knowing more about the carb it is still the perfect fit for me. All of this is new to me, building an engine, the distributer with the correct timing, the carb, the fuel delivery, the thermostat, etc. thank you for putting out a high quality video showing everything about his carb so I know what to expect.
That’s the fun part of playing with cars and engines. There never only one solution to a situation. We all learn something new every time we work on these old classics. Enjoy the ride and don’t hesitate to ask any questions along the way!
I but a comp cams thumper kit into my brothers 65 T bird 390 FE, I fitted an Edelbrock 600 CFM electric choke carby, the car had a flat spot when the secondaries engaged. I fitted a set of main jet needles from a non elcetric choke carby, then adjusted the secondary choke plate to come in a bit earlier. Problem solved without dismantling or removing from the motor, including the road test I reckon the whole operation took about 45 minute’s. And to think that I spent hours trying to get the original ford carby to work properly and a new original ford carby was twice the price of the 2nd hand Edelbrock I bought off eBay, now the car sounds good, goes really good and run’s perfectly.
About the ugly, my Edelbrock AVS used to stutter and stumble on hard lefts just like you said. That was with a rubber fuel line. The problem stopped after I installed the hard fuel line 8126 on the passenger side. It may be coincidence, and I don't why that would have fixed the problem, but it went away after that change.
I installed the AVS2 on my 74 Lincoln, along with an edelbrock performer 460 intake and immediately noticed a huge increase in power and throttle response as well as overall drivability with no other changes, on a totally stock engine, and picked up 5mpg instantly, 14mpg, up from 8 or 9 with the stock Motorcraft carb.
That’s nice to hear but pretty unheard of, unless that poor old motorcraft was just that bad. 😂 Tune it! You’re likely to find more than what you expected!
@@MuscleCarSolutions it was fairly awful. I recently did the 'ol HEI distributor swap, deleting Ford's infamous Neverspark system, and that was also a huge improvement
@@sethbarnes7608 for sure ignition is so overlooked when it comes to carburetor performance. The two go hand in hand! Smart move!
NICE, I am getting ready to do the same thing on my 75 Lincoln 460 with a performer and a used 1406 I just rebuilt.
Had a 650 Holley spread bore and an Offenhauser dual port manifold on a 460 73 T bird. Got good gas mileage and a lot of low-end torque. Those Offenhauser dual port manifolds are known for good gas mileage and low-end torque. I see them on e bay for 460s now and then. Also ran an MSD ignition that seemed to help.
The old 460 is a powerful engine that can get reasonable gas mileage if set up right.
Great video mate. I run an edelbrock AVS 500 on my mild 318,just a mild cam with edelbrock performer intake,full exhaust and hei ignition. The heads and bottom end are still stock. It’s a 1980 Chrysler. I had mine professionally tuned and in the 4 years it’s been on my car it still runs perfect!
It’s not an everyday car either,just a toy. I’ve been told by some that the 500 is to small for my combo but I think it runs great,never given me a drama and on the Dyno it made 214 hp at the tyres in which I believe is good for an otherwise stock 318. I changed my diff ratio from 2:92 to 3:45 and that made a big difference as well. I will always run edelbrock from now on.
It’s common. Folks tend to go way bigger than what they need. On a stock engine and small cubic inches, you made a great choice!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for that. It sure works well. I’m happy.
Hello again.
Sometime later I know.
The next good improvement I made on my 500 was to remove the choke flap!
My car starts fine without a choke so I thought it may have been a restriction with the flap sitting there blocking the Venturi
It did make quite a noticeable improvement once it was removed. Awesome
I have an AVS2 and I am happy with it. I run a wideband and it's easy to get really good numbers. Very tunable. I do have an off idle stumble/hesitation. Top hole on accelerator. I drilled the squirter out to .045 and it helped. I ordered a Thompson performance carburetor power plate and hopefully that's enough. You can also get the 1468 heavy spring accelerator pump, like someone else mentioned. I do think that's the only real flaw of the carb. Like you said though, more to do with ethanol than a bad design. Still a great carb and I would recommend it for an street car. Great video.
I’m not a fan of that plate, especially on an annual discharge carb that atomizes the fuel/air mixture enough to start the process. The ethanol is a challenge on a couple levels. Such a pain to work around and one factor that almost no one considers when tuning. I’ve been working on an internal mod to the carburetors to open up the fuel passage. It’s a choke point in the system when putting the big pump in and a larger squirted nozzle. So far the results have been minimal, but I’ve just started on it. We’ll see where it leads. 99% of the time these carbs can be tuned out of whatever issue it’s having with fuel delivery. So it’s a bit of a pointless exercise, but something I’ve wanted to try for a long time. We’ll see what happens.
I had a stumble with my eddy 1409 on-my boat. The accelerator pump linkage had some play had to bend the rod to lengthen it to keep pump under tension at all times. I was also running a AFR meter, what i saw was after nailing the gas it went way lean for a long time. Before the AFR meter i was thinking it was lean so i kept richening step up rods and jets creating another stumble later in rpm range…. Had not had the afr meter i would not have seen how lean it was going just after hitting throttle, and how long it took engine to recover and then go way rich… taking the slack out of accelerator pump linkage made it disappear, then going to leaner rod helped the holeshot situation .
@Poor Touring Hot Wire Garage It's not really an assumption. I can watch my AF go lean for a moment when I accelerate. Also, if I pull the choke out slightly, the problem is gone and It it's very responsive. I did also mess with the timing until it started skipping. Thanks anyway though.
@@sjd7188 I had a stumble on acceleration. I drilled out the squirter jets and the stumble was gone.
@@GaryH-pw9cm im already using the .043 nozzle did u go bigger than that?
You've got Experience. Thanks for passing along some knowledge. I'll be watching & asking some questions when I'm tuning my 340 & 440 'Cuda's
Thank you
Cheers
Please do. I enjoy helping when I can. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I have an edlebrock Carb on a car and while driving 40-60 mph it would shutoff on quick left turns
This side of the pond, most seem to use Holly carbs, mostly because of availability.
Over here the most popular applications are for the Buick derived Rover built 3.5 or 3.9 Ltr v8. They rarely make a genuine 250 hp in tuned form. The Elderbrock is night and day better than a Holly for that application.
As for the fuel surge in corners, start with a higher fuel level and twin feeds. Just something we learnt at the track
So it seems that I have chosen the right carb for my purpose. Great video. Very insightful. I am new to this muscle car thing and just built my first car from the ground up. The Edlebrock Carb was the clear choice for me and has been very easy to setup with the help of your videos.
Nice! They have their place in a broad scope of uses. Some fail to understand that and think one type or brand of carb covers everything. I’m glad you found the right solution for your build! Don’t hesitate to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to help.
The majority of the driving on hot rod street cars is in the lower torque curve of the motor . The design of the Edelbrock AVS2 addresses this for the street with a fogging effect . This increasing the burn efficiency of the fuel in the combustion chamber and makes for a very drivable engine , even with a more aggressive cam . More torque and increase mileage is the big reward !
Would vacuum secondaries be better for street and off road?
Been running a 1410 on my boat over 15 years and it’s been great
Edelbrock makes great marine carburetors.
Great video! I'm so tired of guys telling me " you should have bought a holly" I feel like it's a bunch of kids just repeating what they heard from other people.
Those are the same people that tell you it ran perfect “right out of the box”. No it didn’t! You just can’t tune! People are weird.
Good video. I'm trying learn to time mine I'm having bunch issues with getting mine set. I got a 383 stroker. 92 camaro rs
The only time I had hesitation with an Edelbrock is when the distributor timing mechanism froze up.
But do have a left turn issue in my k10!
Thanx dude I was gonna buy one for a firebird!
Run Edelbrock carbs for a long time. The upgrade I would like is to put buttons and zippers on them so I can make changes even faster.
Right on! Great to get this info, very informative. I like what we all can learn from your demo's of carbs.👍😁
Thanks man. Appreciate that!
Pulled my steel intake and Qjet off my 86 c10 and went with a edlebrock card and intake. The old set up ran much better. Got the edlebrock to run decent but one I let it sit for 10 minutes and now I'm have to pump to start. Looking to go with Holley. Can't be worse
Did you take the air horn off the new carb and clean the internals before you put it on? I know it sucks to have to do and we shouldn't have to but it doesn't take much to get stuck in the needle and seat and cause problems.
I pugged the PCV port on mine and the engine runs a lot smoother. A very important step when using Holley Sniper fuel injection.
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 LA stock. I put a Weiand aluminum intake and an AVS2 675 carburetor on it. I live in the upper Midwest and since the roads are clear, I decided to take a drive.
Today I've had to do a bunch of adjustments because it died and started stumbling. I noticed it was leaking fuel and getting heat soaked with a ton of vapor after driving it kinda hard.
I looked at my fuel pressure guage and it's reading 8psi, now it won't start until the fuel and vapor is gone so I'll have to add a FPR other than a Mr. Gasket.
Thanks going to install one in my 72 C10 got a new one for $200 just waiting for the phenolic spacer to be delivered
Really informative video! One thought… why not fabricate an external primary pump? Little syringe where the pump rod lives… one issue I’m curious if you ran into is a lip about a quarter inch up in the primary pump cylinder,? Seems to limit the stroke of the pump. The cup hits it and the spring soaks up the rest of the travel. I wonder about honing it to get a little extra juice too.
@@bens8696 I did a video measuring and showing the exact stroke travel of the pump. It doesn’t have the length of travel most assume it would be.
You should add a disclaimer, that if you know how to tune a carb, you can tune out the cornering issue. Also the secondary circuit will dry quickly with todays gas and you will get a bog if you floor it right after it sits for awhile.
The cornering issue is a design problem that unshrouds the jet on that side. There’s no tuning that can recover from lack of fuel. It’s a fairly well known problem with these carbs, but in their defense they were not designed to be a star on the autocross track.
Great info as usual. I think a lot the Edelbrock angst is like the Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge drama...a whole lot ill informed opinions based on one off experiences.
True. Though the carb thing is generally based on not applying the right solution to the equation. When you apply the wrong part, the outcome is bad. But instead of blaming themselves for making a poor decision, it’s easier to just blame the part then taking responsibility.
On the ugly part I think that the reason you can starve for fuel in a left hand turn is that centrifugal force keeps the fuel from transferring to the driver side. The small capacity of the float bowl is not enough to keep up with demand. That is also the accelerator pump side so that diminishes the capacity as well.
Hi sir thank you for sharing your video i lernn a lot of knowledge regarding your video thank you
Good confirmation of a lot of things I've discovered through real-life work. Especially that sharp left-hand turn issue. That's real! It's a pisser. But I'm glad to know there's nothing I can do about it. 😅
Never had such awful support in my life than from Edlebrock. I have called them seven times this week and never got an answer, only on hold, once for an hour before I hung up. When they eventually replied to my email after 6 days they said, "650 is good for your truck." No explanation, no suggestions, no effort. I returned the carb unopened that day. I am glad you had a good experience, but I will never deal with them again.
I can tell you they are like most of the bigger companies these days - very understaffed, especially on their tech line. Unfortunately hiring techs isn’t easy. In some cases they train for over a year before they’re allowed to handle the complicated stuff like valvetrain. I’ve spent almost three decades in the automotive aftermarket and these past three years have been the worst I’ve ever seen and it’s not going to fix itself overnight. But that’s also why TH-cam channels like mine have grown. We’re filling that gap.
Great video!
I need some tuning help!
1954 Ford Customline gasser
1985 460
Edelbrock 1411 750cfm carb
Performer intake
Thumpr cam
Open headers
Got a AVS2 in my 88 Chevy van and a 1406 in my 02 express, Both on 350s
I adjusted as you explained wow , I'm very impressed with your knowledge on carbonation
Glad it helped!
The dual fuel fill should help. Fuel going on both sides
Good breakdown of Edelbrock I’m considering one for my street car
Heat soak fix $30 phonetic inch spacer or wood spacer. Dropped carb temp almost 70°
try a summit carb that looks like a old Ford carb has power of a holley but float bowls like the edelbrock so no leak just got one tuned it and goes like stink
I switched to Edelbrock from Holley after the near-impossible task of trying to keep the Holley from leaking. I should have made the change years ago.
It’s one of the big benefits for a street user. No leaks!
@@MuscleCarSolutions The last two Holley accelerator pumps have leaked right out of the box for me as well. I had to reuse my old one both times. I'm done with Holley.
Great informative vid and lots of excellent pointing outs of positive n negatives . I do want to know. I have a mild street Mopar 318 with Weiand stealth intake. I have a AVS 2 on American untying n it . Had a 69 440 magnum factory AVS on it n ran very well but wanting better fuel atomization as well as maybe some power gain. It does have 8.5-1 compression. High swirl 302 casting heads and a Hughes cam designed for my combo. Hyd flat tappet with .486 int and .502 exh. I run 3/8 fuel lines tank to Carter hv mechanical pump and a pertronix flame thrower 3 distributor and matching coil. Power master high amp alt. It looks a a total street car with 4.10 gears and 2800 stall. Hope w much fuel pressure should I regular it t to will be a gauge right before carb and right after regulator. I run a filter close to the tank and another right after the fuel tank pump. Seems about 6psi should be right . I know I can contact Edelbrock. But would like your opinion. Thank you very much .
Lots to share with you to answer your questions and to change a little how you look at it. First off, curious about your cam selection. Check out this short video to see what duration is the number that’s needed and lift not so important. th-cam.com/video/bNbwOMuwO6Y/w-d-xo.html. Without knowing those specs but looking at what else you have and the low compression you’re running in that engine, is still advise to start at 6psi and tune down from there. Edelbrock’s love operating in the 4.5-6psi range. Any higher you’ll run into too much and any lower (depending on how you set the floats) can run into starvation issues. The flow rate at that psi is good. As far as better atomization is concerned, that’s going to be covered perfectly by the AVS2. Power gain is going to be limited by the rest of your set up. Tuning abs timing are your keys to finding the max power in that engine. I have lots of videos on all these topics if you get a chance to check them out. Watch that lift vs duration video first and let me now what you thing. 👍
Hello Muscle Car Solutions, thanks for the great video. I am on the fence right now with my stock 1990 Chevy 2500, I am having TBI issues I thought about swapping it for a Sniper or Etech, there have been more than a couple of guys complaining about the sniper , so I am considering going to a carburetor, I have always liked Quadrajets for stock engines, I have rebuild several back in the 80s and 90s, I never tuned one like you talked about I just figured they were set up for the engine they were put on. If me and my buddies modified our engines Holly was our go to choice. Now Holly has a Quadrajet replacement that has a spread bore base and larger secondary throttle plate.
If I convert to carburetor I have to change the intake manifold and the distributor, I am fine with that.
You gave me something to think about as far as the Edelbrock option.
I need this 90 2500 to travel from the L.A. area to the most northern part of Washington a few times in the next few months for are retirement relocation.
Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated .
Spindrift
@@spindriff it’s pretty common to have issues with the TBI EFI from that era. It’s like having a flip phone from 1998. The technology is way more advanced and there is no more support left. So switching to a modern EFI will always be the best choice for a cruiser. As far as folks having issues, I can tell you that 95% of the time, it’s user caused. Bad grounds is by far the number one issue. It will fry an ECU QUICKLY. Even the self learning units can be a bit complicated if you’re not used to how to tune. So any issues, people tend to blame the part because they don’t understand how it works. I’ll eventually do a self learning EFI series of videos if I can ever find the time. In the meantime, if you’re more of a novice, using a universal carb like the Edelbrock’s or the Holley is generally not a bad way to go. You’ll need to do some tuning to help match it up with your application, but you’ll have no issue with that commute once you get the carb sorted out AND if you have the right support (fuel system, ignition/timing) to help the carburetor perform the way it should. It’s been awhile, but I’ve made the trip from WA to LA and back a few times in cars equipped with Edelbrock carbs. No issues.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much for such a timely response, I think I will go with a Caurb. set up for now, I already have a complete HEI setup intended for a car already sold, I will need a square bore manifold for a modern TBI anyhow so I can go that route next year after I am all moved up north. I can take my time installing and put extra ground straps/cables (good advice) from frame to motor and battery. Best Regards Spindrift.
Great video. Lots of great info, and I really appreciate that this wasn't another video about JUST the pros and ignoring the cons. One of the most honest info vid on the Edelbrock carbs out there. Thanks!
Thanks man! Always appreciate your feedback. Had to look at it objectively. It’s the only way to select parts for a build. You know as well as anyone. It’s the combination that bakes a great cake! Cheers!
@@MuscleCarSolutions nail on the head. Cheers!
@@PNT-Garage thank you!
I have a rebuilt 455 olds, I don't know all that went into it. Was told it has an RV cam. The valves have 3 angle cut. It idols and can Rev up ok. At idols I can reach 12 to 13 lbs. Of vacuum. The carburetor is a new 750 eldabrock. HEI ignition. Taylor wires.
With what I was told, the low vacuum,at 12to 13 lbs and stinken exhaust I am thinking now I might have valve issues. I will retime it an adjust the metering rods and springs some.
If there is anything you could add, It is all appreciated. Thank you for all your support.
It’s difficult to say. Rv cam is such a generic term. If it’s a very low duration then it’s my assumption given that engines ease in making vacuum, it should be much higher. Run a compression and a leak down test?
Also never ever had an issue with left hand or right hand turns in my edlebrocks. And I've done 30 40 50 80 100 it don't matter just never had the issue.
I have used edelbrock carbs on my car for 30 years they are good street carbs and stay in tune , I’ve used Holley is a good carb also but to me get out of tune on older models but better for race applications, I’ve rebuilt it years later and got a tuning kit due to I upgraded my engine with a cam and performance heads ported and needed to fine tune it better, but for me I like them
Muscle car solutions: I have a 318 in a 76 D100 that I rebuilt in 89 using flat top 9.0 to one pistons, Edelbrock performer cam and lifter kit with Edelbrock performer intake. I used a 500 cfm Carter AFB carb and tuned it to run well and transition from idle to part throttle fairly well. Gas mileage has been terrible, but I rarely drive the truck. I had the Carter rebuilt due to drive-ability issues and never have been able to get it working right. It always seems to want to stumble and sometimes dies when going from idle to part throttle under load. It is worse in winter! If I have time I usually go out and start it up, run it for 10 minutes and shut it off and let the engine heat up on it's own. When i go out after 20 minutes of so and start it up, it runs better, but still has the stumble and almost die problem. What Edelbrock should I use to get my truck driving better. I am thinking 1406 600 cfm.? Would the AVS be better? Thank you for your help, Tom.
It’s not the size of the carburetor that’s the issue. What have you done to tune the 500?
@@MuscleCarSolutions When purchased from Summit, it was listed as a rebuilt Carter. The numbers I think I see on the left front are C5 9511 S. When installed after rebuilding the engine in 1989, I spent several weekends getting it tuned using a strip kit and instruction book. I still have the strip kit, but no instructions, so no tuning lately. I am wondering if this carb has been rebuilt past it's useful life. I have a back injury and don't do too well crawling into the engine bay working on this carb now. So many folks say the new Edelbrocks are lots of times just bolt on and run well.
@@seniorrider9337 there is no carburetor that just bolts on and you don’t do anything to. It must be adjusted for your individual circumstance, driving style, elevation. You can change carburetors if you’d like, but understanding how to make those adjustments is part of the process. Way too many variables here. What’s your timing set to? What’s your fuel pressure at the carburetor? Have you reset the floats? What step up springs are in the carb and what is your vacuum at idle?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for your time and answer. I think I need to find someone local who really knows what they are doing, as the guy who rebuilt the carb 2 years ago seems to have misled me. I am no longer able to do the tuning due to age and a back injury. I was under the impression that the new Edelbrock carbs came very close to right for the application, so I guess I was wrong. I have tuned carbs many a time in my younger years, especially modified motorcycles. The most labor intensive carb I ever rebuilt and tuned was a quadrajet for a 427 Chevy marine application in Nam. I know how labor intensive it can be. I remember spending a couple of weeks tuning a pair of 36mm Mukuni carbs for a hopped up Yamaha Rd- 350. After all was done, it was a real pleasure to ride. Thanks again for your time and help. I will be looking for someone who knows these carbs locally and can get mine tuned up better than it is now or tells me it is too old and I need a new one.
Oh, and Happy holidays.
Well the good news is the Edelbrock carb isn’t near as difficult as the Qjet or the Mikuni carbs. Hate to say it though, most “mechanics” can’t tune a carburetor. Which in all honesty is why I started making these videos so folks could do it on their own. Hopefully you’ll find someone who can give you a hand and get you fixed up.
OK, considering a 1410 for a Jet Boat build. 468 ci motor with 270* cam at 9.8CR with Aluminum heads (so it can run fuel dock gas). Stock Berkeley pump with A cut impeller so it'll load the engine to maybe 5K to 5,500. I like the idea of no leaks below the gasket line. What do you think of this application?
My question is what is the proper procedure for setting the idle/air mix when there are 2 carbs on top of a 6-71 blower? Do I turn the screws all the way in on one of the carbs first or? Enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I've been waiting for another video, awesome content as always, can I swap my boosters for avs 2 boosters I'm running 4edelbrock carbs would like to upgrade them to avs2 performance
Hey John. Couple things. Yes the boosters will fit from an AVS2 to an older performer series. Problem is, Edelbrock doesn’t sell them separately. Also, even if they did, you’ll likely not be able to take advantage of them. I am a few months away from doing this test and video, but I’m certain the fuel supply was also altered to account for more fuel flow with those boosters. I’ll test that theory soon.
I ran a Street Demon 625 and had similar issues with the accelerator pump. Where your opinion of the Edelbrock pump is that it's just too small, the SD's one was weak and intermittent (sometimes nothing). I fixed both of these issues by using a stronger spring to build more pressure behind the piston so the cup sealed better, and I also put an o-ring inside the lip of the cup to push it out into the pump bore. The standard SD pump was terrible in my opinion. They are made by Holley, so they had the chance to use the winning design with the diaphragm and they didn't.
My biggest gripe was with available needles/jets. Off-idle and midrange was brilliant, hut it was either rich cruise with good performance, or good cruise with lean performance. I tried everything, but the economy was just disappointing. Secondaries were always lean (on a mild 302C). After finally losing the tuning kit, it was just easier to buy and rebuild a 650 spread pumper. It's been the best economy- and performance-wise, and this is carb number 4 now. I have tweaked it a little (70 IABs, jetted 65/89, PVCRs out to 55, 2-stage PV) and it's a perfect mild street carb now. I won't hear any criticism of these carbs now that I know my way around them.
I have limited interaction with the street demons but have heard plenty of complaints about their fuel delivery. Thanks for sharing your insight!
I been trying to get part number 1475 for over 8 months with no luck. I need the 4300 squrter
I’ve responded to this same comment you’ve left a number of times. The .43 nozzle does not come in any of the factory carbs. Right now, that’s all Edelbrock is concentrating on is getting out finished carbs out the door. If it’s not something that supports that, the chances of getting one anytime soon is not good. I probably have one that I would be willing to sell you. I’ll have to look and see. I recently sold a couple assortments of that part number to folks needing them so I’ll have to see if I have any more left.
Great video. BUT a hard left turn would uncover the passengers jet, not the drivers side jet like you demonstrated. Did you mean to say a hard RIGHT turn? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for the quality videos.
I have always loved the Quadra jet carburetor for its mile per gallon advantage, but on my mild vortec 350 it is just not putting out the horsepower that my Edelbrock AVS 2 was before I took it off. And I just don’t have the time to get the Quadra jet perfectly set up, and it is also suffering from fuel starvation, which is an issue on those . Going to go back to the AVS 2 and try to tune out a rich condition at idle. My main question is, do you believe the AVS 2 650 cfm is capable of as good mpg numbers as the Quadra jet when tuned properly? I drive a lot of miles with my street truck so every mpg counts. Great video!
Quadrajets are OK for GM's but they have a really small float well/bowl. Also they're made out of zinc instead of aluminum. Holley's are pretty good, simple to work on, pretty fair adjustability, but nowhere near the fine tuning you can get from a Carter (Edelbrock). The Thermoquad is a much more refined version of the AVS and MUCH more precise fuel control than the Quadrajunk. I've had TQ's that were almost as responsive as fuel injection. That AVS2 is a really nice carb. Put one my truck out of the box and it's a real performer. I probably wouldn't use the earlier AFB knockoff Edelbrocks.
I made a living in 80s doing carbs. Specialized in fords variable venturis that everyone hated. Always thought would be fun to throw 3 VVs on a hotrod instead of regular 3 dueces. Same with thermoquads, mostly just misunderstood.
Only time I monkeyed with them was to remove and put a two barrel on. Reviews have always been mixed, but I’m sure they did what they needed to do on a stock application. Everything has its place!
Hey brother I’ve really enjoyed your channel. Thank you!
Thanks for saying so. I very much appreciate that.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes sir. Anytime.
Hi, your videos are simply the best!!! I seriously mean that too. I noticed your fuel filter is full of gas. I have an electric fuel pump with a mister gasket regulator and my fuel filter is at best about a third full. It seems once the truck runs and gets warmed up I have problems with no fuel. There is no vapor lock, no clogged fuel filter before and after the electric pump. Any suggestion? While I am home everything works fine but once I am on the road she behaves poorly and leaves me stranded. Thanks again for these great informational videos.
Couple questions. Is the carburetor bolted directly to the intake? The inexpensive Mr Gasket pumps are known for being rather unreliable. Have you tried a different pump to verify that it’s working as intended? Are you running any sort of regulator in the system? Hopefully and it’s the last thing before the carb like I mention in my fuel systems video. I very much appreciate your kind words. Thank you!
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow, that was a quick response, thank you. Everything is new on this build. I am going from the tank to a filter, to the electric pump, to the mr. Gasket regulator, to a clear filter and then into the carb. I have an extra electric fuel pump I was thinking of trying also I am thinking just use the mechanical which it currently does not have. Its a stock 302 ford in a 1950 Willy's pickup. Engine is all new rebuilt too. for about 40 bucks I can buy a new mechanical one, what do you think. I ordered a pressure gauge to test the pressure but at this point I am so frustrated and I have no faith when I take it out. The carb is also new too.
Check out the video I have on how to set up a fuel system for a muscle car. Will get the order straight in your system. At this point I’d start to eliminate potential problems. The verification of the pump working properly would be a good place to start. Is this a vented tank? What cap are you using? Good thing to check would be when driving and it’s acting up to pull over, and open the cap. Does a big rush of air occur when you pull the cap? Could be creating a vacuum. Just some guesses here. Keep investigating!
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow, ya know I never thought of the cap, what a great idea.I am working my way thought the system. I notice the see through filter on your truck seems full, mine is never even half way. I'll check out the vid. Thank you so much for your time and expertise, it's greatly appreciated.😀
The best carb nowadays on the cheap are Jegs carbs. They flow like hollers but don’t have the leakage issues
May seem trivial, but I dont like that I cant directly hook a TV cable up without getting another piece to bolt on. Maybe it doesn't apply to all models, but I can get a Holley with that built in pop the cable on it and done.
Neither brand has all the hook ups for every type of transmission.
Great video! What is the maximum fuel pressure for the AVS2? I hear they don't like to have too much fuel pressure. The carb I have is a 650 CFM AVS2 that I am putting on a 460 soon. Thanks
4.5 to 6 psi is the range you can operate.
I run mine at 5.5 psig. You are correct they run rich a higher pressure. I also noticed with a mechanical fuel pump pressure seems to bop around a bit. A regulator will not only lower the pressure but will also smothen out the flow making it more consistent.
Awesome videos!!!! I think I can tune one now!!!! I currently have one with a really rich idle it came from ebay I think it may need a few things....gonna check the fuel pressure, float level and metering springs 1/2 turn out on idle screws and its still burning my eyes.
Fuel system to support it is where you should start. Filters, regulator. Then start knocking off circuits and follow the tuning chart.
Never buy a used carb!
@@SOLDOZER it's a reman and it works great!!!!! Just have to be mindful when buying used. Don't expect to throw it on and work lol.
@@SOLDOZER I fixed it with good fresh fuel and a regulator.
@@boostedstinger I was going to ask if you got it dialed in, then I got to the last comment and you did. Awesome!
It's kind of creepy how Google knows what I look up. Low and behold in my feed a couple of days ago was the new Edelbrock 4150 that looks nothing like an Edelbrock but does address horsepower ceiling I believe. I can't wait till you get your hands on one of those. Hell I'm going to email Edelbrock and tell them to give you one because it will be good for business.
I should have it next week. Video coming very soon!
@@MuscleCarSolutionsnice
If your timing is all wrong no amount of carb adjustments will fix it. The edelbrock/carter afb is a great street carb that holds a tune and is a set it and forget it carb
Left turn issue...Both sides can be fed from a dual line setup. 👍
Generally doesn’t fix the issue. That jet still uncovers pretty easily.
@@MuscleCarSolutions My 90 RS Camaro, built 4-bolt main 350, had no issues with a 800 cfm thunder avs even in high g turns. Left nor right. Maybe some people do? Thanks for your response!
I wish the Thermoquad in its original form was back - phenolic body and all. I can work wonders with those things.
People never realized they had 2 stage accelerator pumps in them. They were set up wrong from the factory. They were supposed to give a second shot down the primaries as the secondary throttle valves opened, before the air doors reacted. Also there was a dashpot to control the rate of secondary air valve. Many either a) removed this or b) failed to test to make sure it was working. Later variants had a restrictor in the port to control the air valve rate of the dashpot. It was still very fast but slowed it to eliminate stumble.
Additionally, the secondary air valve had to have a small amount say 35-40 thousandths of air door freeplay to allow initial movement.
With the long gone strip kits they were a great thing. SImple, great economy, dual booster venturis in the primaries.
Apart from stupidity, they really only 1 fault and it was a big one - the plugs at the bottom of the metering rod wells would fall out allowing fuel to pour out.
This cause people to tighten the screws breaking the bosses in the resin body worsening their reputation. Also on disassembly many would forget the 2x screws inside the primary area and crack the resin body.
Their problems were mostly manufacturing errors combined with manufacturing set up errors combined with aftermarket accelerator pump listings being wrong as they were too short to allow the dual accelerator pump activation.
That’s a lot of info! I think the warping/leaking and the lack of how to tune gave it the bad reputation.
Super stuff ty. Looking to do a tbi to 1406 edlebrock on a clean stock ‘95 5.7. I will be adding the 1/2 inch phenolic 4hole spacer - is that too thick in your opinion? Also which manifold would you go with? Thanks again, I saved this video for future reference too!
You’re pretty limited on that generation small block. If it’s stock, then the performer series is what it will want. They make that in an EGR or non EGR version.
I have a Edelbrock 600 on a 351 W Ford engine that runs great. But it will not pass smog.
I have tried everything and it still won't pass smog. So I put the old Holley 600 on for the smog test and then put the Edelbrock back on to drive as it runs better and smoother than the Holley.
What did you do to tune the carburetors?
@@MuscleCarSolutions The smog test guy just said it would not pass. I went through the manual and bought a kit to recalibrate the out of the box calibrations to leaner. The second time I did the smog test it failed again except this time the smog guy said that the reason it did not pass both times was at idle not the 2500 RPM test. I wished I would have known that before I messed with the calibration. After blowing out all the idle circuits with carb cleaner and compressed air, setting the idle exactly per instructions, still would not pass the idle test. Too rich. So now I use the 600 CFM Holley for the test and run the 750 Edelbrock on the street. I am running a stock camshaft, and a 351 W Edelbrock dual plane performer manifold. 5 psi regulated fuel pressure. No vacuum leaks. I bought this 750 CFM Edelbrock carburetor new. It runs just fine, so I don't want to get rid of it.
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Today I installed a new out of the box Edelbrock 800 CFM AVS2 to replace the Edelbrock 750 CFM I was having trouble with described in the discussion above. Problem solved. I just set the idle and made no other adjustments and got a AFR of 14 to 15 at idle. This is way better than the 750 with a AFR of 11 to 12 at idle. The AVS2 should be able to pass the idle smog test no problem. 😊
The ugly side is a simple fix. The eldelbrock carb has a second fuel input that is plugged. Remove and add secondary fuel line to feed both sides. Easy fix. Eldelbrock carbs are very versatile if you know what your doing
Wish that worked 100% of the time, but in aggressive driving, it doesn’t. Street vehicles that I’ve installed the dual kit on have fared better, but they’re usually not trying to take a turn at 1G. 😂
You tried putting higher pressure pump?
@emmanuelhamm5375 6psi max on Edelbrock carbs. Still doesn’t correct that flaw.
Hey man. I have an Edelblock AVS2, and was stupid and I ran it on a dirty tank. Now it is flooding like crazy. Since you are a carburetor guru, I was gonna ask you what you think it is. Or guide me on the right direction please. Thank you so much.
Change both fuel filters, disassemble and give it a good cleaning.
i have a heat soak issue with my edelbrock,AVS2, 650cfm carb. i installed the heat-spacer gasket, by edelbrock, very little help. was told that issue is due to the low boiling point of ethanol fuel, boiling at 173 degrees,causing flooding after sitting when hot.
That is correct. Ethanol boils at a low temperature (varies by elevation). The 3/8” thick gasket is ok, but sometimes more is needed. I did a specific video on this that you might find helpful. th-cam.com/video/sXY4t8LSwjs/w-d-xo.html
My 25 years of working on cars Edelbrock carbs are good for street cars with low hp engines or a cruiser type car. You wanna go fast and make as much hp as you can a holley or really any brand carb of a 4150 is the way to go. Want to go super fast, a carb with no choke or vacuum secondary for all out racing.
Uhhh…. something like that.
Phenolic spacer, how did you set the carb directly on it? The ports underneath on mine wouldn’t clean when I hit the throttle
Don’t know. What spacers are you using on which carb?
@@MuscleCarSolutions the one I have is the Edelbrock 8726 which I believe design for q-Jets not Edelbrock
I have the AVS 2 on a stock intake 1970 c 10 pickup. 5.7
I found the one I think I need 8725
I have watched many videos where people call it an Edelbrock carb, I still call it a Carter carb. The design has not changed since the 1960's just a name change because Edelbrock bought the rights.
No, the internal design has changed to accommodate todays fuel volume, boosters and configuration. Sure it’s looks similar from the outside I suppose, but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t had to change with the times. It’s not the same Carter competition series carb, but it is made by a lot of the same people in its original manufacturing facility in Sanford NC.
I would be interested to know if a set of stiffer anti sway bars would help the fuel starvation under hard braking. Yes the fuel wood still slosh to one side, BUT if the vehicle remained flatter through the corners, the fuel bowl wouldn't have a lower side to it( or be dipping to one side) there for not affecting the level of fuel as much. Your thoughts? And or maybe adding a slightly faster fuel pump?
Unlikely. Autocross, road race cars are set up with adjustable, stiffer suspension components and the improved handling creates additional forces pushing fluids around in the vehicle. I like the line of thinking though.
@@MuscleCarSolutions lol yes I am well aware. Is there room between the walls of the carburetor and float bowl to weld a baffle or a very short 90 degree ledge above the jet height on the opposite side of the fuel bowl wall? Similar to oil pan baffling ? To help hold the fuel from sloshing upwards?
@@johnnyturbo8460 floats take up some space that has to be accounted for. Ensuring the jet continues to be fed fuel is another concern. I’ve seen folks try and JB Weld in some baffle type restrictions for the fuel to slosh. I used to have some much narrower floats that I had made that would allow for some room to work inside with some of those ideas, but they’re long gone. Would be pretty easy to mock up and try though.
@@MuscleCarSolutions cool. That's what I was thinking. Where there is a will, there is a way.. your great video has now given me the will to solve that fuel starving issue. I am interested in that avs2 Carborator. Now I think I will get it and see if I can solve that issue.
@@johnnyturbo8460 yup. It’s a task for sure. With more info online you might be able to find a float body in the right narrow size that you can alter to work and then start experimenting. One of those things I’d like to try one of these days down the road when I’m retired and have some time! Let me know if you have any luck with it!
Well to address the starving issue when you're turning left can't that be resolved by adding a fuel inlet on both sides? It already has one on the passenger side but can you add it on the other side as well?
I’ve never had that solve the issue.
On cold start Holleys are better. It does seem to be an easier carb to set up on a new car. But I have had 3 Edwlbrocks that all leak down over night making hard morning starts.
Excellent explanation, thank you
I’ve come to really like the summit brand carbs, no Leaks Typically, easy jet changes, All holley parts, Annualar Boosters, good mpgs. Used to dislike Edelbrock, but I’m finding they aren’t as bad as I remember
I understand the business side of things, but really dislike retailers that go off shore to knock off products or buy a cheap version of something. I fully support them trying to be profitable, but in the end these Chinese knock offs have ruined the motorsports hobby. No one supports “made in the USA” when it’s time to take out their wallet.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I would have loved to have been around back when holley was making them. And I wish they were still made here. As far as USA stuff goes, I’ll always go with Howard’s cams, Moroso, holley etc. The summit brand 4010 just happens to bring the best qualities from an edelbrock and a holley into one unit.
@@Spudderr a couple of the brands you mentioned are buying heavily off shore. Is what it is.
Doesn't the fact that the gaskets are above the fuel level contribute to gaskets drying out?
The biggest reason why edelbrocks get a bad reputation is because they are one of the cheapest and most readily available replacement carbs so when uninformed people have issues with their engine the first thing they do is blame the carb when usually they have some other issue like a bad cam or incorrect timing, so then they go to the auto parts store and buy the cheapest carb on the shelf which is usually an eldelbrock or one of those 4160 500cfm holleys and they slap them on and when it still doesn't run right they just blame the carb and call them complete junk. In my experience the edelbrocks are the best set it and forget it, get the job done type carb they are decent and you can find second hand carbs for dirt cheap because most people want a holley, take a $25 swap meet edelbrock, throw a rebuild kit in it and have a decent carb for under $100
There’s no doubt the big box stores facilitate this type of behavior. Unfortunately that’s the world we live in. The root cause is rarely investigated. It’s just change parts till it sort of runs right.
Love those spark plug wires give me a link please thx
amzn.to/3Dz2GO4
These carbs can come alive with metering rod changes. These are basically the old Carter AFB. I had a metering rod kit back in the 80s. Woke it right up with smaller metering rods. Tested the Carter and holley back then on my car and there was no difference between the two. The edelbrock is lean from factory.
@@scottmcgehee2933 following the tuning chart makes it very simple and very easy. It’s amazing how many just bolt it on and never try to make it better. I love the way they drive. They’re incredibly efficient and can perform very well. Just have to take the time to work with it instead of just putting up with it out of the box.
Good info. Thanks for putting this together
I have a holley 4160 on my 454 c10. I really want to make it a reliable long distance cruiser without ever LS swapping it. I guess getting an edlebrock carb is a start. I always seem to have gas leaking at the fuel line fitting on the carb. Those one piece fuel rails are never aligned right and Holly just make individual steal braided fuel fittings for that carb and only for the 4150 and newer models. Looking to switching to edlebrock and learning more before I jump into an edlebrock or just buy a newer Holly
I’ve said many times on this channel that everything is situational. Pick the right carburetor for the application and then the right size. You’ll not go wrong with that way of picking way to go with. One thing the Edelbrock has always been famous for and that’s NOT leaking. Keep watching the videos in the Edelbrock Tech series I have. You’ll find that they are very simple to tune once you have the process and set up dialed in.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for replying. I’ll watch more of your videos. Just subscribed
Don’t hesitate to ask any questions. TH-cam sometimes is weird on sending me notifications but I try to answer every question. Happy to do so.
Hey there sir,
One thanks for the video. This is helping me decide what carburetor I would like to change to. I think I am leaning towards the AVS2 1906. I have been looking at many videos on changing and I am not seeing anything about the choke in my scenario. I have a rockchester quadrajet 4 barrel carburetor ( autoline part number c960) and it has a vacuum choke. Pardon my ignorance but my question is, can I use electric choke as a replacement?
Just not seeing any video talking about changing from vacuum choke to either electric or manual. Most definitely do not want to go to manual choke. So wanna go to the edelbrock 1906 electric.
What are your thoughts?
Yes. I’m assuming you have the divorced choke (choke mechanism is in the intake manifold and not on the carburetor). You can switch to the electric choke easily. I also did a video on how to wire an electric choke that you also might find useful. Let me know if you have any questions!
Good deal thanks!!
Go with Manuel
I actually think Holley’s are more complex. Edelbrocks are my go to. Excellent carbs.
They can be. The last 20 years have seen Holley make some tunability upgrades which have given more way to find the right settings for an individual application. But the Edelbrock carbs can be extremely user friendly if one takes a little time to learn them.
I think edelbrock added daul inlets to help with the hard left turn prob on the avs 2 just a theory
They have had dual inlet capability on the older thunder series carbs and that carried over to the AVS2. It’s a good addition but didn’t quite solve the issue.
I'm new to Eldebrock and want to build a sbc for high rpm, but good mpg when driving easy. I'm pretty sure I want to go Eldebrock and trying to decide between the 600 and the 750 performer series.
Would a Duel feed fuel line solve the fuel starvation problem, as stated in the Ugly, if not what is the benefit of the duel feed?
Potentially but in instances where I’ve seen it run, it did not cure the issue.
Gday sir. Are you saying that you can't put a second fuel line on the other side of the carburetor with a t or y fitting? At least that's what I'm about to do with mine, but for a different reason, and that reason is BOOST. Just to make sure I don't lean out under boost. It's a drawthrough application. Also I'm going to make a second plunger so I can utilize the empty bowl with some tomfoolery, that holds extra fuel opposite the plunger. 😂 wish me luck😢
Edelbrock makes a dual inlet fuel line. You can run them separately with no problem. Good luck with the modifications.
Edelbrock used to make a wonderful quadrajet clone. Why did they discontinue it?
The manufacturer they used to make it went out of business.
Please excuse my ignorance, but...not to old to try to learn at 63. I have a carter competition series, 625/650? cfm, from early 90's on my mopar 340.
I believe it is an "AFB" based carb.
I was wondering what is the difference between an "AFB" carb vrs one of the new Eddy "ABS 2" carbs, (old timers kicking in...I think I have the letters correct)
I am curious if the new ABS 2 carbs are a better design, for the street? etc.
I have issues with mine when it gets hot, heat sink no doubt. (my fault of course), But I still enjoy cruzing my '68 B'cuda "time machine" (1st car back on the road again), still trying to "get" how to tune these things. : /
AVS2 has the adjustable air valve secondary and annular primary boosters. It’s an amazing street carburetor.